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Lublijhed Aug: 3.1798, by 1 Stockdale, Piccadilly .
+
THE VOYAGE
OF
LA PEROUSE
ROUND THE WORLD,
IN THE YEARS 1785, 1786, 1787, AND 1788,
©: WITH THE NAUTICAL TABLES.
oe) Ge} Se @ Grimes
Arranged by M. L. A. MILET MUREAU,
Infpector of Fortifications and Member of feveral literary Societies at Paris.
i © jte 6 Gee
: TO WHICH IS PREFIXED,
NARRATIVE OF AN INTERESTING
VOY AGE FROM MANILLA TO ST. BLAISE.
. AND ANNEXED,
TRAVELS OVER THE CONTINENT,
With the Difpatches of La Péroufe in 1787 and 1788,
BY M. DE LESSEPS.
FF
TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH.
[lluftrated with Fifty-one Plates.
= 0%
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
Ee
London :
PAT One PRINTED FOR JOHN STOCKDALE, PICCADILLY.’
1798.
mr
DST TO DER ST TNA PE SEP PO A Dan see sr
’
i 363- wl f, Vaseltne d
14 M) awa-26/
CONTENTS.
VOL. 1.
CHAP. XVL
Departure from Cavita—Sand Bank in the Mid-
dle of the Channel of Formofa—Its Latitude
‘and Longitude—We “Anchor “to Leagues off
Old Fort Zeeland—We get under Sail next Day
—Defeription of the Pefcadores or Ponghou
_ -<flands—-We make the Ifland of Botol Tobaco-
Ÿ wima—We coaf along the VYland of Kumi,
which forms Part of the Kingdom of Liqueo—
Enter the Sea of Japan and Sail along the
Coat of China—We fieer for the Ifland of
Quelpaert—Coaft Corea, making daily a
mical obfervations—Defeription of the [fland of
Quelpaert, Corea, Se.—Difcovery of the land |
“of Dagelet-—Its Longitude and Latitude .....
«CHAP. XVII.
Route towards the North Weft Part of PL oo
View of Cape Noto, and the Ifland of Jootf-
fimi—Details regarding this Iland—Latitude
and Longitude of this Part of Japan—We
meet with feveral Japanefe and Chineje Veffels
.—We return towards the Coaft of Tartary,
which we make in 42° North Latitude -We
put into the Bay of Ternai—Defcription of the
Country and its Produdtions—We get under
Way after a Stay of Three Days—We put into
the Bay of Suffrèn...........,.,
141907
CONTENTS, VOL, II.
CHAP. XVIII.
PA
We continue our Courje to the Northward—We
defery a Peak to the Eaftward—We perceive
that we are Sailing in a Channel—We ha e our
Courfe towards the Ifland of Segalien—We put
into Langle Bay—Manners and Cuftoms of the
Tahabitants-—Their Information determines us to
continue our Route to the Northward—We —
range along the Coaft of the [fland—We put
into D’ Eftaing Bay—We ‘nm from thence—
We find that the Channel between the Ifland
and the Continent of Tartary is obftrudted by
Sand-Banks—We arrive in the Bay of Caftries
on the Coaft of Tartary :
CHAP. XIX.
We put into the Bay of Caftries—Defcription of
that Bay and of a Tartar Village—Manners
and Cuftoms of the Inhabitants—Their refpet
for Tombs, and for Property—Our perfec? Con-
fidence in their Probity—Their paternal Affec-
tion to their children—Their ftric? Union among
themfelves—Four foreign Canoes feen in this Bay
Geographical Information obtained from their
Crews—Produétions of the Buy of Caftries—
Its Quadrupeds, Birds, Foffils and Plants....
CHAP. XX.
Departure from the Bay of Caftries—Difcovery
of the Strait which feparates Jeffo and Oku-
Jeffo—We put into the Bay of Crillon, off the
Point of the Ifland. of Tchoka or Segalien—
Defiription of the Inhabitants and their Village
—We crofs the Strait, and recognize all the
Lands difcovered by the Dutch on Board the
Kaftricum—
AGE
39
6A
. CONTENTS, VOL. II;
Vv
PAGE
Kaftricum—Staten Ifland—Vriess Strait——
Company's Land—Ifland of the Four Brothers
—ITland of Mareka—We pas between the Ku-
riles, and fhape our Courfe for Kamt/chatka...
CHAP. XXI.
bi te to the preceding Chapters—Additional
etails relative to the Eaftern Coaf of Tur-
tary—Doubts concerning the pretended Pearl
Fifhery, À li of by the Jefuits—Phyfical Dif-
ference between the Iflanders of that Country,
and the Inhabitants of the Continent—Poverty
of the Country—-Impofibility of carrying on any
sree Branch À Commerce there—Vocabu-
lary of the Inhabitants of the [land of Tchoka,
ON COPANO) SE wind loto de slate 6 Ate
CHAP. XXII.
Anchorage in the Bay of Awat/cha—Obliging
poy Aa of Lieutenant Kaborof— Arrival of
M. Ka off Ougrenin, Governor of Okhot/k, at
the Harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul—He is
followed on Board by M. Schmaleff and the un-
fortunate Ivachkin, who excites in us the moft
lively Interefi—Kind Offers of the Governor
towards us—A Ball among the Kamt/chadales
81
—A Courier arrives from Okhotfk and brings -
us Letters from France—W : éifcover the Tomb
of M. de la Croyére, we af: Infcriptions en-
graved on Copper—New political Views of M.
Kafloff, relative to the Adminiftration of Kamt-
Schatka—We obtain Permiffion to fend our Inter-
preters, with our Papers, to France—Departure
from the Bay of Awatfiha..........,,,..
117
CONTENTS, VOL, IIe
CHAP. XXIII.
Summary Particulars of Kamt/chatha-—Diredtions
for Sailing in and out off the Bay of Awat/cha
—We traverfe-m the Parallel of 37° 30’, a
Space of 300 Leagues, in fearch of Land, fuid
tobe difeovered by the Spaniards in 1620—
Crofs the Line for the Third Time—We make
the lands of Navigators, after having paffed
the land of Danger of Byron——Vifited by
many ‘Canoes—Barter with the Indians, and
Anchor at.the Ile of Maouna 0... ently ab Wis
CHAP. XXIV.
Manners, Drefs, Arts, and Cuftoms of the Lflandens
of Maouna—Contraft of this fmiling and fertile
Country with the Feracity of its Inhabitants—
The Swell becoming very heavy, compels us to
get under Way—M.,de Langle wauting to pro-
cure Water, lands with Four armed ‘Boats—
—He is affaflinated—Eleven Perfons of the
Two. Ships’ Compenses experience the Jame Fate
Narrative of this Event....
CHAP. XXV.
Departure from the Land of Maouna—Defcrip-
shon of the Tfland.of Oyolava—Exchanges with
its Inhabitants—See the Ifland of Pola— New
—Circumpantia
CHAP. XXVI.
Departure from Navigators’ Iflands—We direct
our Route towards the Friendly Ilands—Fall
n
PAGE
143
164
188
PAGE
in with the Jfland of Vavao, and different
Hands of this Archipelago very inaccurately laid
down on the Charts—The Inhabitants of Ton-
gataboo haften to come on Board and trade
with us—We Anchor at Norfolk Ifland—De-
Jeription of that Iland—Arrival at Botany Bay 206
Extra& from.an Account of an Excurfion to the
Peak of Teneriffe, performed by Meffrs. De La-
manon and Monges, on the 2Ath of duguff, 1785 226.
Eulogy of Lamanon, by M. Bonce.........,.. 230
Deffertation on the Inhabitants of Eafter Island
and of Mowee, by M. Rollin.... 238.
Geographical Memoir on Eafter Island, by M.
Bernixet 248
Phyfological and Pathological Memoir on the Ame-
ricäns, by M. Rollin, M. D. Surgeon-Major of
the Bouffole Frigate.............,, 260 to 279
Memoir on certain Infeéts, by M. La Martinière . 280
Differtation on the Inhabitants of the Ifland of
Tchoka and the Eaftern Tartars, by M. Rollin, |
Surgeon-Major of the Bouffole Frigate ...... 288
Obfervations of M. de Monneron, Captain of the
Corps of Engineers, fent in quality of Chief En-
gineer, in the gt Mn of M. de la Péroufe
‘on the Ifland of Trinidad .......,..,.,... 209
and of St. Catharine .........,...... 301
GH ci RE SERRE EP RE RE EEE 306
BAB and se Se ilk eee beens 310
Sandwich Iflands........,....,,,.,.,, ibid.
Day des Mangas. os ee ve ovine 0 0 00.0 6e 311
Harbour of Monterey ..........,.,..., 312
Obfervations by M. de la Péroufe on Manilla ... 313
ROUGE OVP OVER ea dre ee Oe 317
ù Ob/ervations
viii CONTENTS, VOL. II.
PAGE
Objervations on the Terebratula, Anomia, or
Memoir on the Commerce of Sea-Otter Skins, &c. 339
Eftimate of the Otter and Beaver Skins, purchafed
at Port des Français, on the N. W. Coaf of
America, by the Bouffole and Aftrolabe Frigates 347
Extracts from the Correfpondence of Meffrs. de la
Péroufe, de Langle, and Lamanon, with the
Minifter of Marine 850 to 431
Offervations made between the Firf Degree o
North and the Firft Degree of South Latitude, in
order to difcover the Flux and Reflux of the At-
mofphere |
Deferiptive Note on the Lianes or Lardixabale of
CH RENE AT «+++ 440
433
VOYAGES
VOYAGE
ROUND THE WORLD,
IN THE YEARS
1785, 1786, 1787, AND 1788.
CHAP, XVI.
DEPARTURE FROM CAVITA=-SAND BANK IN THE MID-
DLE OF THE CHANNEL OF FORMOSA—ITS LATITUDE
AND LONGITUDE—WE ANCHOR TWO LEAGUES OFF
OLD FORT ZEELAND—WE GET UNDER SAIL NEXT
DAY—DESCRIPTION OF THE PESCADORES OR PONG-
HOU ISLANDS—WE MAKE THE ISLAND OF BOTOL
TOBACO-XIMA—WE COAST ALONG THE ISLAND OF
KUMI WHICH FORMS PART OF THE KINGDOM OF
LIQUEO—ENTER THE SEA OF JAPAN AND SAIL
ALONG THE COAST OF CHINA—WE STEER FOR THE
ISLAND OF QUELPAERT—COAST COREA, MAKING
DAILY ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS—DESCRIP-
TION OF THE ISLAND OF QUELPAERT, COREA, &c.
DISCOVERY OF THE ISLAND OF DAGELET—ITS LON+
GITUDE AND LATITUDE.
N the 9th of April, according to the European
Calendar, but the roth by that of the Manillas,
we fet fail. with a good breeze at N. -E. which flatter-
ed us with the hopes of doubling, in the courfe of the
day, all the iflands that form the various ftreights of
the bay of Manilla. Before we got under way, M.
de Langle and myfelf received a vifit from M. de
Bermudas, who affared us that the north-eaft mon-
foon would not change in lefs than a month, and that
. ‘VoL. II, B it
a
LA PEROUSE’s VOYAGE [1787,
it was ftill later on the coaft of Formofa, the conti-
nent of China being in a manner the fource of the
northerly winds, which ‘prevail more than nine
months in the year, on the coaft‘of that empire. But
our impatience to. depart did not admit of liftening
to the counfels of experience. We flattered ourfelves
with the hope of ‘a fortunate’ exception : and that
each year might give different epochas of change to its
monfoons. ‘lhus we took our léave, and fome tri:
fling variations. of the wind foon permitted us to get
to the northward of theïfland of Luconia.
We had fcarcely doubled Cape Bujador when the
wind became obftinately-fixed in’ the north-eaft, and
proved the. truth of M. Bermudas’s advice. I flat-
tered myfelf, though with little ground for hope, that
we fhould find under the lee of Formofa the fame va.
riations as under the ifland of Luconia. I did not for-
get that the proximity of the coaft of China rendered
this opinion lefs probable. But in all events we had |
no. alternative, but to wait, the change of the mon-
foon. . For the heavy failing of our fhips, which were
fheathed with wood and filled, left us no hopes of
making any way to the northward with contrary
winds. On the 21ft of April we made the ifland of
Formofa ; in the channel which feparates it from Lu-
conia we experienced very violent currents, which’ ap-
‘peared to be occafioned by a regular tide, for our dead
reckoning never differed from the refuli of our obfer-
vations, either in latitude or longitude. On the 22d
April, Lidifcovered the ifland of Lamay, which lies off
the S. E. point of Formofa, at a diftance of about three
leagues, bearing E. by S. the fea was very high, and
the afpe& of the coaft convinced me: I fhould make
-more way northward, if I could approach that of
China. With the N. N. E. winds, I might fteer
_N..W. and thus gain a higher latitude. But in the
. middle of the channel I remarked that the fea was ex-
tremely changed ; we were then in 22° 57’ N. on
| an
nt D eel ot Eu in FF 0 mR My M Bom es ve
eae ie + es ae
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD, 3
and to the weftward of the meridian of Cavita, or in
116° 41’ E, longitude, and in 27 fathoms water, over
a fandy boitom : and four minutes afterwards in only
19 etes. So rapid a change led me to conclude
thefe were not the founding of the coaft. of China,
_ from which we were at a diftance of more than 30
Jeagues, but of a bank not laid down in the charts.
I kept the lead going, and foon found only twelve
fathoms water ; I then tacked towards Formofa, and
the bottom continued equally irregular, I was now
of opinion that we ought to anchor, and therefore
made a fignal to that effeét to the Aftrolabe,
. The night was ferene, and at the return of day. we
perceived no breakers around; I got under fail,
and again fhaped my courfe N. W. by W. towards
the continent ot China, but at nine o’clock in the
morning, being in 21 fathoms water, and one minute
after in 11 fathoms with a rocky bottom, I was of
opinion that we ought not to continue any longer fo
dangerous a purfuit, fince our boats did not fail well
enough to keep a head of our fhips, and apprife us of
the foundings. I determined therefore to run .back
on the fame point of the compafs, and accordingly
fleered S. E. by E. We failed fix leagues on this
courfe, over a bottom of fand and rock, our found-
ings varying from 24 to 11 fathoms: after which we
deepened our water, and, at ten o’clock at night, en-
tirely loft bottom, about 12 leagues from the point
from whence we had tacked in the morning. This
‘bank whole limits to the N. W. we had not deter-
mined, is in the middle of the length of the courfe we
had run in 23° of north latitude, and in 116° 45/ of
E. longitude: its S: E. extremity is 22° 52’ of lati-
tude, and 117° 3’ of longitude. It. may not be
dangerous, fince our leaft depth af water was 11 fa-
thoms ; but the nature and inequality of the bottom
renders it extremely fufpicious, and it. muft be ob-
ferved, that thefe fhoals, which are very common “
B 2 the
4 rarétousss voyance | [1787.
the ‘éoaft of China, havé ghnoft always ‘points even
with the water’s edge, and have occafioned many fhip-
wrecks. init : :
Out Board carried ‘ws back to the coat of Formofa,
towards the ‘entrance of the bay of the old fort Zee-
kûd*, où Which’ ftands the city of Taywan, the ca-
pital of the ‘ifland. 1 was informed pf the revolt of
the Chinefe- colony, and 1 knew an army 6f 20,000
men pei Sh ‘againft it, under the command of the
Santock o “Cain. “The N. E. monfoon, which ftill
éontinued with violence, permitting me to facrifice'a
few days to the pleafure Of Tearning the aft accounts
of this event ; 1 dropped ahelior to the weft of this.
bay in 17 fathoms water, alttough our boats had found
ta fathoms at a league and ‘a half from the fhore.
But 1 was aware that it is not allowed to approach
too near to the ifland, that there were only feven feet
water in the port of Taywan, and that, when thé Dutch: ,
Were in’ polieffion of it, their’ yeffels Were obliged to
remain at the Pefcador iffands, where was an excel-
lent ‘port which they had fortified. This circumftance
rendered ‘me extremely undetermined .whether to fend
a boat on fhore, as 1 could not have protééted it with
my frigates, and it would probably have ‘been fufpéét-
éd in the then ftate of war of the Chinefe colony. At
belt, 1 could only expeé it to be fent back without |
permiffion to land : whereas, fhould it be detained,
my fituation would become extremely embarrafling,
and the burning two or three /ampanes would have
been a poor recompenfe for that misfortune. I there-
fore endeavoured to entice the crews of fome Chinefe
boats that approached us to come on board, and fhew-
ed them fome piaftres, which I had found a power-
ful loadftone for that nation ; but all ecmmunication
with foreigners feemed. to be prohibited: yet it was
= # The plan of this fort is annexed to a letter of Father Manilla.
hi Jefuit. See rath Collection of Lettres Edifiantes.——French
tor.
evident
CREER | TT NN
CT oe ‘A Mh) \\
k
REUAFF GED
antes TT
1
faa bréezcs “having, per
à tie northward fe.
Re ae
fail, ‘others riding. anchor. al tte
ry great number in t river. À
ee covered with flags, was fae
€ anchored near the edge of the fang
e-¢aitward .of our inn. Al
| 6 LA PEROUSE’ 8 VOYAGE
lights onall his mafts, which ferved as fignals ¢ tor
cl many veflels that were fill to windward | Thef
veflels being obliged to pafs near us to join their.
modore, were very careful not to come a
fhot ‘of us, uncertain whether’ we were’ friends
enemies. The light of the moon permitted us to m
thefe obfervations till midnight, and we never
ardently defired that the weather fhould co
clear, that we might fee the refult of thefe events.
had defcried the peta oes iflands of the ys
at bable ‘the C
had we delay
fky darkened at fot
heavy gale, and the Boris odonger-adny:
diftinguifhing the land. At break of day If
‘Chinefe Admiral’s fhip run befure the windtow
the river with fome other /umpanes (veffels)
till perceived through the fog. 0
under clofe-reefed top-fails and courfes. |’
was N. N.E. and I flattered *myfclf 1 thould
the Pefcadors by ftanding to the N. 'W. To m
aftonifhment, at nine in the morning, I perceived fe. *
veral rocks forming a part of this clufter of”iflands,
which bore N. N. W., and the weather was fo hazy.
that it was impoffible to diftinguifh them till we were
very near. The breakers that furrounded them: were : x
confounded with thofe occafioned ‘by the high waves.
I had never feen a heavier fea in my life. I tacked.,
towards Formola again at nine o'clock in the morn=
ing,
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1787.| ROUND THE WORLD, : Ni
ing, and at noon the Aftrolabe, being a-head :of
us, made a fignal for 12 fathoms water’ while, the
was wearing; when I immediately founded, and
found 40 fathoms water. Thus in lefs than a quarter of:
a league there is à variation from 40 to'12 fathoms,»
and in all probability we fhould very foon have fhoaled:
from 12 to two, fince the Aftrolable only found eight:
fathoms while fhe was wearing, and that veffel was pro-.
bably not four minutes jn running on that fhort board:
This circumftance apprifed us that the channel bes:
tween the iflands north-eaft of the Pefcadors, and
the fand banks of Formofa was not more than four
leagues wide. Confequently it would have been dan-
gerous to have plied in it during the night in dread-
ful weather, with an horizon of lefs than a league in!
extent, and fo heavy a fea, that every time we wore
with the wind aft, we were in danger of its breaking on
board of us. Thefe various motives determined me
to bear away, in order to run to the eaftward of
Formofa. My inftruétions did not enjoin me to pafs.
through the channel, and I was but tco well convinced:
* that I fhould not fucceed in it before the changeof the
monfoon, and as that period, which muft neceffurily be
very near, is almoft uniformly preceded bya very heavy
gale of wind, I deemed it better to encounter thofe
fqualls out at fea, and I fhaped my courfe towards the
fouthern iflands of the Pefcadors, which | made, bear
ing W.S. W. Being obliged to adopt this meafure,
I was defirous at leaft to reconnoitre thefe iflands as
much as the bad weather would permit. Weran along ~
them at a diflance of two leagues, and they appeared
to extend towards the fouth as far as 23° 12’, although
the chart of Monf. Daprès la;s down the fouthernmoit
13’ more to the north. We are not equally. certain
of their limits towards the northward. The moft
northerly that we obferved, exiends as far as 23° 25’,
but we are uncertain whether there are not others {till
further to the northward.
B 4 Thefe
8 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
Thefe’iflands are a heap of rocks in every variety
of form. : One of them is an exaét counterpart of the
Tower of Cordouan at the mouth of the river of Bour-
deaux; and we might almoft aver, that the rock was
cut by human hands. Among thefe little iflands we
counted five of a moderate height, which had the ap-
pearance of downs of fand ; but we did not perceive
a fingle tree. In faét, the dreadful weather at that
time rendered our obfervations very uncertain. The
defcription of thefe ifles muft therefore be learnt from
_ the Durch, who fortified the port of Pong-hou when
they were mafters of Formofa. We know alfo that
the Chinefe maintain a garrifon there, confifting of
five or fix hundred Tartars, who are annually re-
lieved. '
As the water became much fmoother under the lee
of thefe iflands, we founded there feveral times. The
bottom was fandy, and fo irregular, that the Aftrolabe,
at a mufket-fhot from fhore, was in forty fathoms wa-
ter, at the fame time that we were in twenty-four, and
prefently after could not ftrike the ground. When
night approached, I fhaped my courfe S. by E. and at
the return of day I hauled up E. S. E. in order. to
enter the channel between Formofa and the Bafhee
Iflands. The next day we met with as ftrong a ‘gale
as on the preceding evening, which, however, conti-
aued only till ten o’clock at night. It was preceded
by a heavy rain that could only be equalled between the
tropics. The heavens were on fire during the whole
night, and the moft vivid lightnings flafhed from every
point of the horizon ; yet we heard but a fingle clap
of thunder. We ran before the wind under our fore-
fail, and fore and main topfails clofe recfed, fteering
S. E. in order to double Vela-reta, which, according
to the bearings we had taken before the clofe of the
day of the fouthern point of Formofa, fhould have
been four leagues to the eaftward of us. The wind
blew conftantly from the N. W. during the ne
night,
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD, 9
night, but the clouds flew with the greateft rapi-
dity to the Ss W. and a fog, which extended not
above a hundred fathoms in height, followed the
lower current of the wind. I had made the fame ob-
fervation during feveral days. It hid not, however,
determined me to ftand out to fea during this crifis
of nature, thus announced by the winds, and which
the full moon rendered ftill more probable. We were
‘becalmed the whole of the following day, and in mid
channel between the Bafhee Iflands and thofe of Botol
‘Tabaco-xima. This channel is 16 miles wide, our
obfervations having fixed the S. E. point of the latter
in 21° 59’ N. lat. and 119° 32° E. long. The winds
having permitted us to approach this ifland within
two-thirds of a league, I diftinly perceived three
villages on the fouthern coaft, and a canoe which
feemed to be making towards us. 1 would willing-
ly have paid a vifit to thefe villages, which in all
probability were inhabited by a race of men fimilar
to thofe of the Bafhees, whoin Admiral Dampier has
defcribed as fo good and hofpitable; but the only
bay that feemed to promife us anchorage was open
to the S. E. winds, which appeared likely to blow
very fhortly, fince the clouds drove with rapidity
in that direction. In fact, towards midnight the
wind fettled in that quarter, and permitted me to fteer
N. E. by N. which is the direction M Daprès gives
the ifland of Formofa as far as 23° 30%. We had
founded feveral times on our approach to Botol Ta-
baco-xima, and within half a league of land, without
ftriking ground ; and every indication fhews, that if
there is anchorage, it is extremely near the coaft.
This ifland, on which no navigator ever landed, may
be four leagues in circumference. It is feparated by
a channel half a league in width from a {mall ifland
or very great rock, whereon we perceived fome -little
verdure, and a few bufhes, but which is neither inha-
bited, nor habitable. .
# The
A À ri 2 we eee . _ -
ee A Sn ae en RTE
M - LAS Se ? *
10 LA PEROUSE'S VOYAGE (1787,
The ifland, however, appears to contain a confide-
yable number of inhabitants, fince we counted three
extenfive villages in the fpace of a league, Itis very
woody from about one-third of its elevation, taken be-
tween the water’s edge and its fummit, which appear.
ed crowned with trees of the largeft fize. ‘The declivity
of the fpace between thefe forefts and the beach is
very rapid. It was covered withthe molt beautiful
verdure, and in many places cultivated, though fur-
rowed by the torrents that defcend from the moun-
tains. 1 believe Botol Tabaco-xima may be feen at a
diftance of 15 leagues when the fky is clear ; but ths
ifland is very often covered with fogs, and it fhould
feem Lord Anfon only obferved .the {mall ifland juit
mentioned, which is not half fo high. After having
doubled this ifland, we directed our courfe tothe N.N.
E. with conftant attention during the night, to obferve
if any land prefented itfelf before us. A ftrong north-
erly current prevented our knowing with any certain.
_ty the way we made ; but a very fine moon and the
minuteft attention protected us againit the inconveni-
encies of navigating in an archipelago very little
known by geographers; for it is only known by a
letter of Father Gaubil, a miflionary, who had learnt
fome particulars. of the kingdom of Liqueo, and its
thirty-fix iflands, from an ambaflador of the king of
that country, with whom he was acquainted at Pekin,
It is evident how infufficient to navigation are de-
terminations of longitude and latitude on {uch data.
It is, however, a great advantage to know that there
exift iflands or rocks in the parts where we are failing.
On the sth of May, at one o’clock in the morning, we
difcove ed an ifland bearing N,N.E. We paffed the
reft of the night under eafy fail, ftanding off and'on, and
at break of day I endeavoured to have the ifland bear-
ing W. at half a league diftance. We founded: fre,
quently, but as yet found no bottom. We foon had
{ufficient proof that the ifland was inhabited, for we
faw
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 11
faw fires in feveral places, and herds of cattle paffing
along the fhore. As foon as we had doubled its weft.
ernmott point, which is the moft beautiful and beft in.
habited part of the ifland, feveral canoes left the coaft
to obferve us. We feemed to infpire them with tho
greate(t terror; for though their curiofity brought
them within mufket-thot, their fears made them ime
mediately fly from us with precipitation. At length our
ciies, ouf geltures, our fignals of peace, and the fight
of fome mativfactures induced two of them to come on
board, when 1 ordered a piece of nankeen and fome
medals be given to each, We perceived that they
had not left the coaft with any view to trade with us,
for they hid nothing to offer us in exchange for our
prefents. They fattened a bucket of frefh water to a
rope, making at the fame time a fign that they did not
think they had difcharged the obligation, but that
they wold go on fhore and return with provifions,
expreffing this intention by putting their hands to
their mouth. Before they had come alongfide, they
had placed their hands on their belly, and raifed their
arms towards heaven. We repeated thefe figns, on
which they came*on board, but with a diftruft which
their phyfiognomy never ceafed to exprefs. They in-
vited us however th come nearer the fhore, making
figns that we fhould want for nothing. ‘lhefeiflanders
are neither Chinefe nor Japanefe: fituated between
thefe two empires, they feem in fome refpects anala-
gous to each. They were drefled in a callico fhirt
and drawers, their hair turned up on the crown of
their head, and rolled round a bodkin, which appear-
ed to be gold; and they had each a poniard with a
handle of the fame metal. Their canoes were hol-
lowed trees, which they managed very badly. I with-
ed to have gone afhore, but ay we had brought to in or-
der.to wait tor their canoes, and the current drifted us
to the northward with extreme ra;idity, we had fallen
mu.h to leeward, and we might have in vain attempted
to
12 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [ 1787.
to near it again; nor had we a moment to lofe, as it
was of great importance to quit the fea of Japan be-
fore the month of June, when the ftorms and hurri-
canes commence, which render thofe feas the molt
dangerous in the wniverfe.
It is evideat that veffels which had been long at
fea might procure wood, water, and provifions in this
ifland, and even perhaps trade there in a fmall degree.
But as it is fcarcely three or four leagues in cir-
cumference, it is not probable its population fhould .
exceed four or five hundred, and a few gold bodkins
are not a proof of confiderable riches. I have conti.
nued to diftinguifh this ifland by the name of Kumi,
and in the chart of Father Gaubil, where it is laid
down nearly in the fame latitude and longitude as our
obfervations, which fix it in 24° 33’ N. lat. and 120°
56’ E. long. In that chart Kumi is one of a clufter
of feven or eight iflands, of which it is the moft wefter.
ly, and is feparated from thofe fuppofed to lie eaft of it
by channels from eight to ten leagues wide, for our
horizon was of that extent without leeing land. Ac-
cording to the defcription of Father Gaubil of the
great ifland of Liqueo, the capital of all the iflands
ealtward of Formofa, I am led to believe that the
Europeans would be received there, and that they
might carry or a trade equally advantageous with
that of Japan. +
At one o’clock in the afternoon I crouded fail, and
ftood tothenorthward without waiting the returnof the
iflanders, who had. fignified that they would prefently
bring us fome provifions. We had {till plenty, and a
fair wind now invited us not to lofe fo precious an op-
portunity. I therefore continued my courfe to the
northward under a croud of fail, and we had loft fight
of Kumi by funfet, though the fky was clear, and our
horizon feemed to have an extent of ten. leagues.
During the night I kept under eafy fail, and brought
to at two inthe morning, after having run five leagues,
fuppofing
D © wte kw
787.
is it
| be-
drris
noft
y at
this
Tee.
cir-
ould |
kins
oNtis
umi,
laid
our
120?
after
fter-
of it
our
Ace
the
ands
the
hey
ith
and
the
ntly
da
Op-
the
ight
our
es.
ight
ues,
1787 ] ROUND THE WORLD. 13
fuppofing the current to have carried us ten or twelve
miles a-head of our réckoning. At day break I de-
{cried an ifland bearing N. N. E. and feveral rocks or
fmalliflands further to the eaftward. 1 fteered a courfe
to pals to the weftward of this ifland, which is circu-
lar, and well wooded towards that fide. 1 paffed it
at a diftance of a mile without finding bottom, and
perceived notraces of any human habitation, it is f6
{teep that I do not even think it habitable. Its extent
may be two miles in diameter, or as many leagues in
circumference. While we were abreaft of it, we dif-
covered a fecond ifland of the fame fize, equally
woody, and nearly of the fame form, though fome-
what lefs elevated. {It bore N. N. E. and between
thefe iflands were five clufters of rocks, round which
hovered an immenfe number of ‘birds. I have con-
tinued to this latter the name of Hoapinfu, and to that.
more to the N. N. E. that of Tiaoyu-/x, which the
fame miffionary has given to the iflands tying eaft of
the northermoft point of Formofa, and which are laid
down in the chart much farther to the fouthward than
according to our obfervations *, which place Hoa-
pinfu in 25° 44’ N. lat. and 121° 14’ E. long. and that
of Tiaoyu-fu in 25° 55’ N. lat. and 121° 27’ E. long.
We had now quitted the archipelago of the iflands
of Liqueo, and were entering a more open fea between
Japan.and China, where fome geographers affirm there
are foundings every where. This obfervation is exact,
But it was only in 24° 4’ that we had 70 fathoms,
and from that latitude till beyond the Streights of Ja-
pan we always got bottom. ‘The coaft of China is fo
flat, that in 31 deg. we were only in twenty-five fa-
thoms water, at more than thirty leagues from the
coaft. I had propofed at my departure from Manilla
* The chart of Father Gaubil lays down a third ifland N. W. of
Hoapinfu, called Pongkiachan, and nearly at the fame diftance. from
itas Tiaoyu-fu. If this ifland exiits, it is furprifing, La Pérouse
did not fee it. See Lettres Edifiantes, 28th Colicction.—French
Editor. .*
to
14 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787:
to reconnoitre the entrance of the Yellow Sea to
the northward of Nankin, fhould circumftances ad-
mit of .my devoting fome weeks to it. But in all
events it was important to the fuccefs of my ultimate
plans, to be at the mouth of the Streights of Japan
before the 20th of May ; and I AA La ds on the
northern coaft of China obftacles which permitted me
only to make feven or eight leagues a day. The fogs
were as thick and conftant as on the coaft of Labrador.
The winds, which were very light, never varied but
from N. E. toE, and we were often in a dead calm
obliged to bring up, and to make fignals to continue
at anchoï, becaufe we did not perceive the Aftrolabe,
although fhe was within hail. The cutrents alfo
were {0 ftrong, that we could not keep a lead to
the ground to inform us whether we drove; and
though the tide only ran at the rate of three knots an
hour, its direétion was incalculable, becaufe it changed
every moment, and ran all round the compafs in
twelve hours, without one moment of flack water. |
During ten or twelve days we had but for one inftant
a clear fky, that permitted us to obferve a fmall ifland
or rock in 30° 45’ N. lat. and 121° 26’ E. long. and
immcdiately it thickened again, fo that we knew not
whether it was contiguous to the continent, or fepa-
rated from it by a wide channel : for we had not one
view of the coaft, and our leaft depth of water was
twenty fathoms.
On the igth of May; after a forthight’s calm,
with a thick fog, the wind became fixed at N. W.
and blew hard. The fky was. dull and watery, but
the horizon extended feveral leagues. The fea, which
had till then been perfectly fmooth, now became ex-
tremely heavy. I was at anchor in twenty-five fa-
thoms water at the moment of this change. I made
the fignal to get under way, and fteered, without lofing
a moment, N. E. by E. towards the ifland of Quel-
paert, which was the firft interelting land-fall before we
entered
1787:
ea to
3 ad-
in all
imate
Japan
n'the
sd me
e fogs
ador.
d but
calm
tinue
abe,
; alfo
ad to
- and
ts an
inge
fs in
vater. .
utant
fland
. and
w not
| epa=-
one
was
alm,
le +
but
rhich
e EX-
fa-
| ade
ing
Duel-
e we
ered
787.1 ROUND, THE WORLD., 15 :
entered the Streights of Japan. This ifland, which is
only known to Europeans by the fhipwreck of the
Dutch fhip the Sparrow-hawk, in 1635, was at that
period under the dominion of the King of Corea. We
made it on the 21 ft of May, in the cleareft weather
poflible, and in circumftances the moft favourable for
Junar obfervations. We fixed the fouthernmoft point
in 330 14’ N. lat, and 124° 15’ E. long. I coafted
the S. E. part of it at two leagues difiance, and fur:
veyed with the greateft care an extent of coaft of
twelve leagues, of which Mr. Bernizet has made a
draught. It is fcarcely poffible to find an ifland which
prefents a more beautiful appearance: a peak about
6000 feet high, and which may be perceived at a dif-
tance of from eighteen to twenty leagues, rifes in the
centre of the ifland, whofe refervoir, no doubt, it
forms. Its furface is a gentle declivity to the fea,
from whence the habitations refemble an amphi-
theatre. The foil appeared cultivated to a. very
great height. We perceived, by means of our glaffes,
the divifions of the fields, which being very fmall,
prove the ifland very populous. The varying fhades
of the different fpecies of cultivation, gave it a ftill
more agreeable afpect. Unfortunately it belongs
to a nation to whom every .kind of communication
with ftrangers is prohibited, and who retain in flavery
- thofe who have the misfortune to be fhipwrecked on
their coaft. Some Dutchmen who were on board
the Sparrow-hawk, after a captivity of eighteen years,
during which they were frequently baftonadoed, found
means to run away With a boat to Japan, and from
thence to Batavia and Amfterdam. With this exam-
ple before us, we felt no inclination to fend a boat on
fhore. Though we obferved two canoes put off from
the ifland, they did not come within a league of us,
and it is probable their only obje& was to obferve
us, and perhaps to give the alarm on the coaît of
Corea.
I con
— eras Ce re —
nement nee
Se
16 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
I continued my courfe till midnight N. E. by E.;
and then lay to till daybreak, when the weather was
hazy,’ but without thick fog. 1 perceived the'N. E.
point of the ifland of Quelpaert bearing weft, and I
fteered N.N. E. in order to approach Corea. We
did not omit to found every hour, and found from 60
to 70 fathoms water. At day-break we difcovered va-
rious illands or rocks forming a chain of more than 15
leagues off that continent, and lying nearly N. E. and
S. W. Our obfervations place the moft northerly in |
300 15’ N. lat., and 127° 7’ E. long. A thick fog
concealed the coaft, which is not more than 5 or 6
leagues beyond them. We got fight of-it the next day,
about 11 o’clock in the morning, when it appeared
behind the fmall iflands or rocks by which ‘it was
fkirted. Two leagues to the fouthward of thefe iflands
we had conftantly from 30:to 35 fathoms water, over
a muddy bottom. The fky was continually dull
and watery, but the fun pierced through the fog,
and we were enabled to take the moft accurate
obfervations of latitude and longitude: a circumftanc+
of the greateft importance to geography, no Eur:
pean fhip ‘having ever navigated in thefe feas. “They
are laid down in our charts according to the Japan-
nefe or Corean maps, publifhed by the Jefuits: It is
true, théfe miffionaries have correéted them by their
Jand journeys, which they laid down with great care,
and compared with very accurate obfervations made at
Pekin. Thus their errors are very inconfiderable;
and we muft acknowledge that they have rendered an
effential fervice to the geography of that part of Afia
with which they alone have made us acquainted, and
of which they have furnifhed us with charts very near
the truth. Navigators have ‘therefore now only to
defire fuch hydrographical details, as could not be laid
down in a map, becaufe the Jefuits travelled by land.
On the 25th we paffed the Streights of Corea in the
night. We had fet, after fun-fet, the coaft of Ja,
pan, -
[1787.
. by E.;
her was
e'N. E.
» and I
a, We
rom 60
ered va-
than 16
. E,and
herly in .
ick fog
1 5 or 6
ext day,
ppeared
it was
e Hands
er, over
Hy dull
the fog,
Accurate
mftanc
» Eur:
‘They
: Japan-
3; «Tt is
by their
sat care,
made at
Jerable;
lered an
of Afia
ed, and
ery near
only to
t be laid
by land.
2a in the
| of Ja,
pan, -
CHU E CLONE Ou TER UNE HY Ayu! |
| |
Il
| | | i
{ | THe TTL LL PETRI EEE NET TONER ET CORTE TETHER Cn ce
1787.) ’ ROUND THE WORLD. 17
‘pam which exterids from E.by N. to E.S. E. and
om that of Corea, from N. W. toN. The fea appeared
"very open to the N.E, anda heavy fwell coming m that
direction, confirmed mé in this opinion. The wind
Ahlew fom the S..E. a moderate breeze, andthe night
2 A ver clear. We ran before the wind under very
“ jail, making only two knots: an hour, in’ or:
We | fo. recognize at day bréak the bearings we had
‘take the preceding evening, and’ to make an ‘exa@
Sehart of the ftrait. Our: bearings, corrected’ by’ thé
“@bfervations of M. Dagelet, have accomplifhed all that
‘eam Be defired with regard to the accuracy of the plan
Ayerbat We founded every half hour, and as
aft of Corea appeared: to be more interefting than
am, E approached: within two leagues of it,
ed ¢ourfe parallel to its. direétion.
\annek that FEAR her of ‘Japan from.
hent fic wide; Ap ri à
shiek: ree, had doubled à de \ Bi fai
«-peninfila, fo chat “+ A were able take
nil to Europ forts. Te is highly
“probéble the” princ hl!means of defence employed
by: th Coreans, are directed againft the Japantfe:
part of the coaft is very favourable to navigation,
there appears no caufe of danger, and at three
ques in.the offing the depth of water is 6o: fathoms’
over atnuddy b tom; but the country is mountainous;:
| and! appears very arid. The fnow was not entirely’
melted'am fome hollows, and the foil feemed but little:
fufeeptible of cultivation. The habitations are, how
ever, very numerous. We counted a dozen Jampares,
orjuaks; failing along: the coa(t, and feeming in né re-
“Ape, to differ fromithofe of China, their fails being alfo-
«Vu. IT, C made
18 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
made of matting. The fight of our fhips feemed to oc:
cafion them no apprehenfion ; though, it is true, they
were very near the land; and might reach it before
they could be brought to, had our movements excited
any fear of danger. I was very defirous they fhould
venture to come along fide of us, but they continued
their courfe without taking any notice of us; and the
phenomenon we afforded them, however new, did not
even attract their attention. At 11 o’clock, however,
I faw two boats fet fail in order to reconnoitre us.
They came within a league of us, followed us during
two hours, and then returned into the port from which
they had put off in the morning: and it is probable we
caufed an alarm on the coaft, as, in the afternoon,
we obferved fires lighted on every point of land.
This day (the 26th) was one of the fineft we ens
joyed during this voyage, as well as the moft in-
terefting, on account of the obfervations we made
of an extent of coaft of above 30 leagues. Note
withftanding this fine weather the barometer fell
to 27 inches 10 lines. But as it had often deceived
us, we coritinued till midnight on the fame courfe
along the coaft, which we diftinguifhed by the light
of the moon. - The wind then chopped about with
confiderable violence from fouth to north, without an-
nouncing this fudden change by a fingle cloud. The
fky, though before clear and ferene; now become
very black, and | was obliged to ftand off to fea, to
avoid being embayed by the eafterly winds. Though
the clouds had not given us notice of this change,
yet we had an indication, which, at the time, we did
not underftand, and which it is not perhaps very eafy :
to explain. - The watch called down from the round-
top, that they felt burning vapours like that from the
mouth of an oven, which came in puffs, and fuc-
ceeded one another at the interval of half a minute.
All the officers went aloft and experienced the fame
heats. The thermometer was, at that time, at 14°
upon
to OCs
, they
before
xcited
fhould
tinued
nd the
lid not
Wevers
ire us.
luring
which
ble we
rnoon,
]
we ene
oft in-
- made
Not-
er fell
eceived
courfe
e light
t with
out an-
The
become
fea, to
hough
hange,
we did
round-
om the
id fuc-
inute.
e fame
at 14°
upon
1787.
pry eafy :
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD, ~ 19
upon deck. We fent a thermometer aloft to the crofs-
trees, where it rofe to 20°deg. In the mean while
the puffs of hot vapour paffed very rapidly; though,
in the intervals, the temperature was the fame as on a
level with the fea.
We experienced, during this night, a gale of wind
_ from the north, and though it lafted only feven or eight
hours, the fea was very heavy. As the channel between
Corea and Japan muft be of a confiderable width in
this latitude, we had no caufe of apprehenfion from
bad weather. The next day I again approached
‘within three leagues of the coaft. It was free from
fog, and we recognized the points we had fet the pre-
ceding evening. Notwithftanding the ftrength of the
wind, we had gained a little to the northward; and
the coaft began to trend tothe N. N. W. Thus we
had failed beyond the eafternmoft part, and determined
the moft interefting portion of the coaft of Corea.
I thought, therefore, I ought now to dire&t my courfe
for the S. W. point of the ifland of Niphon, of which
Captain King had accurately obferved the N. E. point,
or Cape Nabo. Thefe two points ought to clear up
the doubts of geographers, who will now only have to
exercife their ingenuity in filling up the intermediate
coaft. On the 27th [| made the fignal to bear away
to the eaftward; and I prefently perceived, bearing
N.N.E., an ifland not laid down on any chart, and
which appeared about 20 leagues diftant from the
coaft of Corea. I endeavoured to approach it, but
it was precifely in the wind’s eye. Fortunately the
wind changed during the night, and I fteered a courfe,
at day-break, fo as to reconnoitre this ifland, to which
I gave the name of J/le Dagelet, from the aftronomer
who firft difcovered it. It fcarcely exceeds three
leagues in circumference. 1 ran along it, and failed
almoft round it at the diftance of a mile, without
finding bottom. I then hoifted out a boat under the
command of M. Boutin, with orders to found as far as
the fhore. He did not ftrike ground with a 20 fa-
C2 thom
a
20 LA PRROUSE’S VOYAGE [r787.
thom line till on the edge of the waves that broke
upon the coaft, and about 200 yards from the ifland,
whofe N. E. point lies in 37° 25’ N. lat., and 129° 2
. long. It is very fteep, but is covered from its fum-
mit to the water's edge with the fineft trees, A ram-
part of bare rock almoft as perpendicular as a walk
entirely furrounds it, with the exception of feven lit-
tle fandy creeks. where it is poflible toland. In thefe
creeks, we perceived: fome boats upon the ftocks,.
exactly on the Chinefe model. The fight of our
fhips, which paffed within an eafy gun fhot, had
doubtlefs. frightened the workmen, who fled into the:
wood, from which their thip-yard was about 50 paces
diftant. We faw nothing more except fome huts,,
which, neither formed a village, nor were furround-
ed by. any appearance of cultivation. Hence it is
probable that the fhipwrights of Corea, which is not
more than 20 leagues from this ifland, come hither in:
fammer with their provifions, to build boats, which
they fell upon the continent. This opinion almoft
appears a certainty : for as foon. as we had doubled the
wefternmoft point, the workmen of another boat-
yard, who could not till then fee our fhips, which that
point intercepted, were furprifed by us near their
timber’ at work upon their boats ; and we faw them:
all fly to the woods, except two'or three, who did not
appear to be at all alarmed. I was defirous of find-
ing anchorage, in order to convince thefe people, by a
difplay of kindnefs, that we were not enemies. But
the violence of the current drove us off the land, night
approached, and the fear of being carried to leeward,
and of riot being rejoined by the boat I had fent off
with M. Boutin, obliged me to make a fignal for him
to come on board, at the very moment when he was
about to land. I hauled towards the Aftrolabe, the
currents having drifted her confiderably to the weft-
ward, and we pañled the night in a calm, the height
of the mountains of Dagelet Ifland intercepting the
fea breeze. | CHAP.
[r787.
t broke
‘ifland,
129° 2
ts fum-
À ram-
3a walk
ven lit-
In thefe
ftocks,.
of our
ot, had
into the:
0 paces
ne huts,,
rround-
ce it 15:
h is not
uther in
3, which
n almoft
bled the
er boat-
ich that
at their
w them:
did not
of find-
ple, by a
ss. But
id, night
leeward,’
| fent off
il for him
n he was
labe, the
the weft-
re height
ting the
CHAP..
LIN
ji Hh IK
|
Ag
ai
fl if ll ’
(]
pli ">
yt
hy
TT CS UE RE
|
Hetil |
‘a ul rN
LR “oe |
4, on,” mS
LUTTE =
7 “ whi — Ni |
1787.| ROUND THE WORLD.
CHAP. XVII.
joUrk TOWARDS THE WORTH WEST PART OF JAPAN,
~) #if2W or CAPE NOTO, AND THE ISLAND OF JooTSt-
| @IMA—DETAILS REGARDING THIS JSLAND—LATI-
/ TUDE AND LONGITUDE OF THIS PART OF JAPAN—
eR MEET With SEVERAL JAPANESE AND citI-
+) ESEVESSELS—WE RETURN TOWARDS THE CoAsT
\) do valüablé, that-had 1 nôt conf ;
_ amportatice,’ to determine one or two points of thé .
velteen conftf the ifland of Niphoa, L fhould Have
> ob tARrixy, win we MARE 1ù 420 NORTH LAT.
MW PUT INTO THE BAY oF TERWAI—DEBCRIP-
vi Bg THE COUNTRY AND its PRODUCTIONS—
WE OB
UNDER WAY AFTER À SrAŸ OF THREE
à )) pats—we Pur iNro THE BAY Or'AUFFREN.
MN the 30th May, 1787, the witid having fettiea
Pat 8. S E. I fhaped my courfet5 the’ eaftward
Vars Japan: but I apftoiched it by very Mort days
and the wind was fo conftanily oppofite, and titne
dered it of the gréäteft
es:
ry tf Allo hed that furvey altogether, and have run be-
are the Winid tothe coaft of Tartaty, On the dd June,
She
22 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
She had beams on her ftem which projected, and
were painted green. _ Her boat placed athwart her
bows, exceeded by feven or eight feet the breadth of
the veffel, which had in other refpects a very ordinary
fheer, a flat poop with two fmall windows, and very
little carved work ; and had no other refemblance to
- Chinefe junks than that of faftening her helm by
cords. Her fide gallery, rofe but two or three feet
above her water line, and the extremities of the boat
muft have touched the water as the veffel rolled.
Every thing indicated that thefe veffels were not in-
tended to go far from the coaft. They could not be
fafe in a heavy fea during a gale of wind. Probably the
Japanefe have other veffels for winter, better calcu-
Jated to contend with bad weather. We pafled this
veffel near enough to obferve the countenances of her
crew, which expreffed neither fear nor furprife. They
did not change their courfe till they came within
piftol fhot of the Aftrolabe, and were in fear of falling
aboard of her. ‘They had a {mall white Japanefe flog,
on which were fome words written vertically, and
her name was infcribed on a kind of drum by the
fide pf the enfign ftaff. The Aftrolabe hailed her as
fhe pañled, but we neither ,underftood ‘her anfwer,
nor her crew our queftion: and fhe continued her
courfe to the fouthward, haftening no doubt, to an-
nounce her meeting with two foreign fhips, in feas
where no European veffel had ever been feen before, :
On the fourth in the morning in 133° 17’ E. long.
and 379 13’ N. lat., we thought we faw land. But
the weather was extremely foggy, and our horizon
was foon confined to a quarter of a league at the
moft. It then blew very freth from the fouthward, and
the barorncter had fallen half an inch in twelve hours.
At firit I was willing to bring to, in hopes that the
fky would clear up, but the wind frefhened ftill more
in the afternoon. The mizen top-maft was blown
away, we handed the topfails and lay to under the
| forefail,
(1787.
d, and
rt her
adth of
‘dinary
d very
ince to
elm by
ee feet
1e boat
rolled.
not in-
not be
bly the
calcu-
ed this
of her
They
within
‘falling
fe fl:g,
ly, and
by the
| her as
infwer,
ied her
to an-
in feas
before. ©
:. long.
1. But
horizon
at the
ard, and
> hours,
that the
ill more
. blown
der the
forefail,
{ ‘
4
|
\ ul
Pa "A à
ee.
Mi
i
| |
|
|
4
|
!
{
EU
fi t
ii |
Ht) AB
III ih
{ {
| |
\
‘
mf
LEUR:
i |
(ay H
! | |
' } }
Hen) |
git
| i
i ay 1
Bit {
| {
ih
!
ah {
ae
j “hh
|
j H
| | 1}
ri | }
'
if} i}
| H
{
| }
|
{
{} {
| 1
1 | À
i | |
|
{ iy i
| Nu à
EI |
| at
i
if }
| ip 1
{ rh
H i
À } \y
| j
| | |
| i
| ! 1
i BE |
j |
i j
5
} t
Î
’
"mm ey ed
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 23
forefail. _ At different parts of the day we perceived
~ feven Chinefe veffels, mafted like that I have fcribed,
«but without fide galleries; and though fmaller, bet.
ter calculated to encounter bad weather. They were.
A exactly fimilar to thofe feen by Captain King, during
~~ Cook’s. third voyage, having like them, three black
_.. ftreaks in the concavity of their fail, and being thirty —
: er forty tons burden with a crew of eight men, SWwhik ë.
. theviolence af the windcontinued we fawoneaground,
. cher matt, naked like thofe of chaffe-marées, wasibraced
~~" bytwofhroudsand a ftay carried to the flem, for thefe
» wefféls have no bowfprit, but only an upright fpar
eight or ten feet high, from which the Chinefe rig a
» fmall fore-fail like that of a boat. All thefe junks
ranclofe to the wind with their larbnard tacks on
board, fteering W. S. W., and it is probable, they
were not far from the land, fince thefe veffels never
fail but along the coaft. The next day which
: | Was extremely foggy, we-perceived ‘two: tr ore Japas
nefe veffels : ‘onan was not ‘till the fixth, that
made Cape Noto and th
“+ ‘without a name,
: which is: feparated- from it by a char
Des a ye ‘The: ds ner was clear,
d though fix leagues from
aw as ifland lying to the ee of Noto; La Péroufé gives |
: the fare name to another ifland lat ra a ee cg tothe —
IN: E. of that Cape, and which is laid down in allthe pir non
know not whether this proceeds from an errer of La Péroufe, Ù
but E thought it neceffary to caution the reader againft a miftake
thätmight arife from two iflands of the fame name, being laid
à or fo near the fame Cape. French Editors
C4 ie fathoms,
24 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787.
fathoms, over a bottom of rock and coral. At two
o’clock we faw the ifland of Jootfi-fima bearing N.
E., I fhaped my courfe along its weftern coaft, and
was prefently obliged to haul our wind in order
to weather the breakers fo. dangerous in the fogs,
which at this feafon, almoft conftantly conceal the
northern coaft of Japan. A league and a half from
thefe breakers we had ftill fixty fathoms water over
a rocky bottom, and could not think of anchoring
there, except in a cafe of extreme neceflity. This
ifland is finail and flat; but well wooded, and wears
a very pleafing appearance. I believe its circum:
ference does not exceed two leagues. It appeared,
to us extremely populous, and we remarked among
its buildings fome edifices of confiderable magnitude.
Near a fort of, caftle on its S. W. point, we diftin-
guifhed a gallows, or at leaft, fome pillars with a large
beam laid acrofs, which might, however, be deftined
for a very different purpofe. It would be fingular
if the Japanefe cuftoms, in general fo different
from ours, fhould coincide with them in this refpect.
We had no fooner doubled the ifland of Jootf-
fima, than we were inftantly envelloped in a cloud of
the thickeft fog. Fortunately we had found time
to take excellent bearings of the coaft of Japan to the
fouthward of Cape Noto, as far as another cape be-
yond which we perceived nothing.
Our obfervations of latitude and longitude were
as compleat as we could defire, and our time-piece
No. 19, had continued perfectly accurate fince our
departure from Manilla. Thus Cape Noto on, the
coaft of Japan, is a point on which geographers may
rely, and, together with Cape Nabo on the eaftern
coaft, determined by Captain King, will give the
breadth of that empire toward the north. Our ob-
fervations will render a ftill more effential fervice ta
geography, for they will determine the breadth of the
fea of Tartary, towards which I directed my D
+ ne
1787.
t two
ng N.
, and
order
fogs;
il the
from
| over
orin
This
wears
‘cum:
eared,
mong’
itude.
liftin~
large.
ftined
gular
ferent |
fpect,
ootfi-
ud of
time
to the
e be-
were
piece
e our
n, the
3 may
tern
e the
a ob:
ce ta
of the
Jurfe.
The
1787. “ROUND THE WORLD. 23
The céaft of Japan which runs away: veyond Caps
Noto fixty leagues to the eaf@vard, and the conti-
nual fogs that hover over thefe iflands, might perhaps
have caufed the reft of the feafon to elapfe before we
could coaft along and take the bearings of the Ifle-of
Niphon, as far as Cape Sangaär. We had a much
larger field of difcovery to explore on the coaft of
Tartarÿ and in thé ftrait of Tefloy, and I therefore
thought it neceflary, not to lofe a moment in arriving
there as foon as poflible. Nor had I any other object _
in view ifi'reconnoitring the coaft of Japan, than to
fix the true‘limits of the fea of Tartary from north to
fouth. Our obfervations place Cape Noto in 37° 36”
N. lat. and 135° 34’ E, long.; the ifland of Jootfi-
fima in 37° 51 N. lat. and 135° 20’ E. long. an iflet
or rock to the weftward of Cape Noto, in 37° 36’ N,
lat. and 735° 14’ E. long., and the fouthernmoft
point within fight on the ifland of Niphon, in "7
18’ N, lat. and 135° 5’ E. long.
Thefe fhort obfervations, which will appear very
dry to the majority of our readers, coft us ten days of
moft laborious navigation in the midft of fogs. But
we doubt not, geographers will deem our time well
employed, and will only regret that the vaft extent of.
our projected voyage did not admit of our reconnois
tring, and determining a greater number of points on
this coaft, and particularly towards the fouth-weft
part of it, from which the true limits of the ftrait,
which feparates that empire from Corea might have
been delineated. We have taken the bearings of
the coaft of this peninfula with the greateft accuracy,
as far as the point where it ceafes to run to the.N.
E. and purfues a wefterly direction, which obliged us
to get into the 37th degree north. The‘moft conftant
and obftinate fouth winds oppofed our intention of fee-
ing and determining the fouthernmoft and weftern-
moft points of the ifland of Niphon. : The fame winds
continued till we were in fight of the coaft of Tar-
tary,
26 LA PEROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787.
tary, which we defcried on the 11th of June. The
‘weather had cleared up on the preceding evening,
‘The barometer had fallen to 27 inches feven lines,
and there remained ftationary, and yet it was during
the time it remained at that point, that we enjoyed
the two fineft days we had experienced throughout
the voyage. That inftrument, fince our departure
from Manilla, had fo often given us juft prognoftica-
tions that we forgave its occafional deviations : from
thefe, hawever, it appears that there is a ftate of the
atmofphere which, without caufing either rain or
wind, produces a confiderable variation in the baro-
meter. That of the Aftrolabe was at the {fame point
as ours, and it appears, that a long courfe of obferva-
tions are. yet wanting, in order to teach us the lan-
guage of this inftrument, which in general may be of
reat ufe in contributing to the fecurity of navigation,
hat of Nairne with his ingenious mode of fufpenfion,
is incomparably fuperior to every other. The point
of the coaft where we made our land fall, is precifely
‘that which feparates Corea from Mantchou Tartary,
It is a very high land which we defcried on the 11th
ata diftance of 20 leagues. It extended frorn the N.
'N. W.to N.E. by N., appearing in different ranges,
and the mountains, though not fo elevated as thofe of
America, are at leaft fix or feven hundred toifes high,
We only begun to get foundings at four leagues from
fhore, where the depth of water was 180 fathoms,
over a bottom of muddy fand : and at one Jeague from
‘the fhore it was fiill 84 fathoms. 1 approached within
that diftance of the coaft, which was extremely fteep,
but covered with trees and verdure. We faw fnow
on the fummits of the higheft mountains, though in
very fmall quantities; but we perceived no traces of
cultivation or inhabitants : and we imagined that the
Mantchou Tartare, who are wandering fhepherds, ne-
glectedthefe mountains and forefts, for plains and yal-
Jeys, where their flocks could enjoy a more abundant
pafturage.
[1787.
The
ening,
lines,
during
njoyed
barture
oftica-
: from
of the
ain or
baro-
point
Dferva-
e lan-
y be of
se pal
nfion,
> point
ecifely
artary,
> Lith
he N.
anges,
jofe of
high,
s from
homs,
> from
vithin
fteep,
{now
gh in
ces of
at the
Ss, ne-
d val-
ndant
rage.
ighout
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 27
pafturage. Throughout this extent of coaft of more
than 40 leagues, we did not meet with the mouth of a
fingle river. I fhould have been defirous, however, of
touching there that our botanifts and mineralogifts
might obferve the foil and its productions; had not the
coaft been perpendicular, and as we had eighty-four
fathoms water at onc league diftance, we muft proba-
bly have approached within two or three cables’ length
of the fhore to be twenty fathoms, and then we fhould
not have been able to get under way with the fea
breezes. Flattering myfelf with the hopes of find-
ing a more commodious fituation, I continued my
courfe with the fineft weather and the cleareft fky
we had enjoyed fince our‘departure from Europe.
We took our bearings on the 12th, 13th, and 14th,
with equal fuccefs, ranging along the land, at fome-
thing lefs than three leagues diftance, On the laft
of thefe days, at fix in the evening, we were envel-
loped in fog and becalmed. A very light breeze
from the S. E. juft permitted us to fteer. ‘Till then
the coaft had run to the N.E. by N. We were
already in the 44th degree of latitude, the fituation
allotted by geographers to the pretended ftriit of
Tefloy ; but we were five degrees to the weftward
of the longitude affigned to this ftrait, a difference
which muft be deducted from the continent of Tar-
tary, and added to the channel which feparates it
from the iflands lying to the northward of Japan,
The 15th’and 16th of June were very foggy days,
We kept within a {mall diftance of the coaft of Tar- .
tary, and got fight of it at intervals; but the laft of
thefe days will be diftinguifhed in our journal by the
moft complete illufion I have witneffed fince I have
been a feaman, ;
At four in the afternoon a perfectly clear fky fuc-
ceeding to the thickeft fog, we defcried the conti-
nent extending from W. by S. to N. by E. and foon
after, an extenfive land, in the fouth, running to-
: wards
18 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE __ [1787.
wards Tartary in the weft, where it left an opening
of lefs than fifteen degrees. We diftinguifhed the
mountains, hollows, and all the variations of the
gout but could not imagine how we had entered
this ftrait, which muft neceflarily be that of Tef-
foy, of which we had given up the purfuit. In this
fituation I thought it neceffary to haul the wind, and
fteer S. S. W.; but thefe hills and hollows foon dif-
appeared, The moft extraordinary fog-bank I had
ever beheld had occafioned this deception, and we
foon witnefled its difperfion. Its forms and its tints
mounted, and vanifhed in’the atmofphere among the
clouds ; and enough of day ftill remained fully to de-
monftrate that land to be unfubftantial and imaginary.
I ftood on, during the night, over the fpace it had ap-
peared to occupy, and at day-break no object prefentcd
itfelf to our view. The horizon was even fufficient-
ly extenfive to admit of our diftinétly feeing the
coaît of Tartary, although more than fifteen Icagues
diftant. I fhaped my courfe towards it, but at eight
in the morning the fog again furrounded us. For-
tunately there had been time to take good bearings,
and recognize the points we had fet on the pre-
ceding evening. Thus there is no blank on our
chart of Tartary from our land-fall in 42° as far as
the ftrait of Segalien.
The fog was ftill very thick on the 17th, rsth,
and 19th, but we made no way, and ftood off and
on, in order again to recognize, at the firft clear in-
terval, the mountains we had before defcried and laid
down on our charts. On the 19th, at night, the
fog difperfed : we were then but three leagues from
the land, and furveyed an extent of coaft of more
than twenty leagues, from W. S$. W. to N.N. E. Its
whole outline. was perfectly diftinct, and the clearch
atmofphere permitted us to abferve all its tints; but
in no part did we perceive the appearance of a bay,
and at the diftance of four leagues from the land
we
on
1787.
venin
d the
f the
tered
Tef-
n this
and
n dif-
I had
d we
5 tints
g the
o de-
inary.
d ap-
ented
cient-
y the
agues
eight
For-
rings,
pre-
1 our
far a6
sth,
uf and
ir in-
d laid
, the
from
more
). Its
sareft
, but
bay,
land
we
1787.| ROUND THE WORLD. 29
we could not firike ground with a line of two hun-
dred fathoms. The fog foon obliged me to ftand out
to fea, and we did not again perceive the coaft till
the next day at noon, We were then very near it,
and never had an opportunity of taking. better bear-
ings. We were in 44° 45’ N. lat. and fet a point of
land bearing N. E. by N. which was at leaft fifteen
leagues diftant from us. I ordered the Aftrolabe to
make fail a-head, and look out for anchorage ; and M.
de Langle hoifted ant his boat, and fent his firft lieu-
tenant, M. de Monti, to take the foundings of a bay
we perceived before us, and which feemed to offer us
fhelter. At two leagues from the land the depth of
water was one hundred and forty fathoms, and we ~°
had found two hundred at a diftance of two leagues
more. The water feemed ‘to fhoal gradually, and it
was probable that at a quarter of a league from the
land we fhould find forty or fifty fathoms, which
though very confiderable, it is extremely common.to
anchor in fimilar depths. We contmued our courfe
towards the land, and prefently a thick fog-bank arofe,
which a light breeze from the north brought over us.
Before M. de Mouti had reached the bay, he had orders
to found ; M. de Langle was obliged to make a fignal
for him to return on board. He rejoined his captain
at the moment when we were enveloped in the thick-
eft fog, which obliged us to ftand out to fea, At
fun-fet we had another clear interval of a few mi-
nutes. Towards cight o’clock the next morning,
having advanced but three leagues E. by N. in
twenty-four hours, we could not fet any other points,
but thofe already laid down on our chart. We
perceived the fummit of a mountain precifely in
the form of a table, to which I gave that name, that
it might be eafily recognized: by future navigators.
Since we had ranged along this land: we had not dif-
covered the leaft trace of its being inhabited ; not
even a canoc had put off from the coaft: and this
country,
30 | LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
country, though covered with the fineft trees, which
indicated a fertile foil, feemed to be neglected and
defpifed, both by the Tartars and Japanefe, who
might have there eftablifhed moft flourifhing colonies.
The policy, however, of the latter is to prevent alt
emigration or communication with forcigners, and
under this defcription they include-the Chinefe as
well as the Europeans.
The fog was very thick on the 21ft and 22d, but
we kept fo clofe in with the coaft, that we perceiv-
ed it with the leaft clear interval, and had that oppor-
tunity every day at fun-fet. The cold began to in- ,
creafe as foon as we had got into the forty-fifth de-
gree of latitude, where the depth of water was fifty-
feven fathoms, with a muddy bottom, at one league
from the land.
On the 23d the wind fettled at N. E. and I deter-
termined to fiand in for a bay, which I faw to the
W. N. W. and where it was probable we fhould
find good anchorage. We dropped anchor there at
fix in the evening, in twenty-four fathoms water,
and a fandy bottom, at half a league diftance from
the fhore. I named it Baie de Ternai, which is
fituated in 45° 13’ N. lat. and 135° 9’ E. long.
Although open to the eaft, I have reafon to think
the wind never blows directly in fhore, but rather
follows the direction of the land. The bottom is
fandy, and fhoals gradually, to fix fathoms, at a ca-
ble’s length from the fhore. The tide rifes five feet,
and at the full and change of the moon it is high
water at fifteen minutes paft eight; but its flux and
reflux do not alter the direction of the current at
half a Jeague from the fhore; that which we expe-
rienced at the anchorage never varied but from S. W.
to S. E. and its greateft drift was one mile an hour.
It was now feventy-five days fince our departure
from Manilla, in which time we had ranged along
the coafts of the iflands of Quelpaert, Corea, and
, ) Japan
187.1 ROUND THE WORLD, 31
Japan ; the barbarity of whofe inhabitants towards
ftrangers precluded every idea of putting in there.
On the other had, we knew that the Tartars were
hofpitable, and our force fufficient to overawe the
{mall tribes we might meet with near the coaft. We
burnt with impatience to reconnoitre this country,
with which our imagination had been filled ever fince
our departure from France. It was the only part of
the globe which had efcaped the indefatigable activity
of Captain Cook, and we were perhaps indebted to the
melancholy event, which put a period to his life, for
the advantage of being the firft who landed there.
We had proof that the Kaftrikum had never failed
along the coaft of Tartary, and we hoped to find, in
the courfe of this expedition, new confirmation of
that fact.
The geographers who, from the relation of Father
des Anges, and fome Japanefe maps, had delineated the
ftrait of Tefloy, and determined the limits of Jeffo, of
the (Dutch Eaft India) Company’s land, and of that
of the Staten (or the States of Holland), had fo diftort-
ed the geography of this part of Afia, that it was necef-
fary to terminate all former difpntes in this refpeét by
inconteftible facts*. The latitude of the bay of
Ternai was then precifely the fame with that of Port
Aqueis, where the Dutch landed, though, as the
reader will perceive, they are very different places.
Five fmall creeks, like the fides of a regular poly-
gon, form the circumference of this road-ftead.
They are feparated from each other by hills, clothed
* Almoft all the geographers who have laid down an iffand to the
northward of Japan under the name of Jeço, Yeco, or Jeffo, have
féparated it from Tartary by a ftrait, to which they have given the
name of Teffoy. This error has been continued, and we {ee in all
the old maps this imaginary flrait towards the 43d degree of N.
lat. Its pretended exiftence muft have arifen from the real ttrait,
which feparates the ifland of Segalien from the continent, and which
William de Lifle has alfo named the Strait of Tefiy, in a map of
Afia, dated 1:700.——French Editor. es pews 11
EN
32 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787.
with trees to their fummits. : The lovelieft fpring
never produced in France fhades of verdüre equally
various and lively ; and although we had not per-
ceived, while we failed along the coaft, either a ca-
coe, or the fmoke of a fingle fire, we could not be-
lieve a country fo fertile and fo near to China could
be deftitute of inhabitants, Before our boats land-
ed, we viewed the coaft with our glaffes; but
only perceived fome ftags and bears feeding in undif-
turbed tranquillity along the fhore. This view en-
ercafed the impatience every one felt to land. Our
arms were got ready with as much difpatch as: if we
had to defend ourfelves againft an enemy; and
while thefe preparations were going on, fome of the
failors, who weré fifhermen, took twelve or fifteen
cod with their lines. The inhabitants of large cities
cannot eafily imagine the fénfations of -feamen
at the fight of an abundarit ofifhery.. Frefh provi-
fions are negeflary for all men, and the leaft favory
‘food is known to be far more falubrious than the beft
cured falt meat. I gave orders immediately to diftri-
bute no more falt provifions, but to keep them for lefs
favourable circumftances.. I had the cafks got ready
to.be filled with the frefh anddimpid waters rivulets of
which flowed into every’ creck. I ordered culi-
nary. plants to be gathered: in the meadows, where
wéAiound an immenfe quantity of {mall onions, of
celéry and forrel. The whole toil was carpeted with
tlie fime plants that grow in our own climate, but
more vigorous, and of a.finer.verdure. The majari-
ty were in flower. At every ftep we met with rofes,
yellow and red lilies, and lilies of the valley, and,
in general, all the flowers that adorn our meadows.
The fummits of the mountains were crowned with
pines, and oaks began to-cloath them from the middle,
but diminifhed in fize and vigour as they approach:
the fea. The banks of the rivers and brooks were |
lined with willows, birch, and maple; and the great
woods
feamnen
provi-
favory'
he beft
) diftri-
for lefs
t ready
ulets of
d culi-
where
ons, of
ed with
e, but
n jori-
rofes,
y, and,
adows.
d with
iddle,
proach:
s were
e great ;
woods
1787.) ROUND THE WORLD, 33 >
woods fkirted with apple-trees. and medlars in bloom,
with clumps of nut-trees, whofe fruit was beginni
to fet. Our furprize encreafed, when we reflected
that the vaft empire of China is furcharged with an
excefs of population, infomuch that the laws do not
even punifh parents who are barbarous enough to
drown or deftroy their children ; that this nation,
whofe polity is fo highly extolled, dare not pafs
the great wall to procure fubfiftence from a land
whofe vegetation requires rather. to be reftrained
than. accelerated. e found indeed at every ftep
the traces of man marked. by deftruétion; trees
cut with fharp infiruments, the ravages of fire: in
many various fpots, and fhelter confiruéted for hun-
ters at the corner of the woods. We found alfo fome
~ fmall bafkets, formed of the bark ‘of birch, fewed
with thread, exactly fimilar to thofe of the Canadian
Indians, and fome fnow fhoes. Every thing led us
to conclude that fome of the Tartars came down to |
the coaft in the hunting and fifhing feafon; that at
prefent they were collected in villages along ‘the
courfe of the rivers, and that the great body of the :
nation lived up the country, on a foil more adapted
to the multiplication of their immenfe herds.
Three boats from our two fhips brought a number -
of officers and paffengers afhore in Bear Creek, at © “
half paft fix o’clock. By feven they had repeatedly
fired at feveral wild beafts, who inftantly took re-
fuge in the woods. . Three young fawns were the
only victims of their inexperience, the noify joy of
our company on landing would otherwife have in-
duced them to retire to the inacceffible woods, near
which they fed. Thefe meadows, fo delightful ‘to
the eyc, were fcarcely paffable. Buried in thick
grafs, three or four feet high, we could fcarcely ‘di-
rect our fteps. We were alfo in fear of ferpents, of
which we had found a great number on the banks of
the rivulets, though we had no experience of the
Vou. If, D nature
84 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE f1787.
nature of their venom. This land then was to us a
magnificent folitude. The fands of the beach were
alone peflable, for in every other part we could
not make the fmalleft progrefs without the moft
incredible fatigue. A pañlior for hunting, however;
induced M. de Langle to overcome thefe difficul-
ties, together with: feveral other officers and natu-
ralifts, but without fuccels; and we thought we
fhould not be able to accomplith any thing except by
‘extreme patience, and pofting ourfelves in ambuth
in perfe¢t filence, on the track of the bears or ftags,
‘marked by their footfteps. This plan was fixed for
the-next day, yet it was difficult to be executed ;
and men do not: go a voyage of 10,000 leagues,
“merely to facrifice themfelves in hunting for prey in
‘the middle of a marfh, covered with mutkitos. We
. however made the attempt on the 25th at night,
after having pañled the day in fruitlefs excurfions.
At nine o'clock every one had taken his poft ; and at
ten, by which time the bears ought to have come
out, we all agreed that fifhing was a more advan-
tageous and fuitable purfuit than hunting: in fact,
it. proved far more fuccefsful. Each of the five
creeks that form the circumference of the bay of
Tetnai, offered a convenient fituation for hauling
the feine, and received a rivalet near which we made
eur kitchen. Thus the fith were no fooner out of
the water than we were ready to cook them. We
eaught. cod, harp-fifh, trout, falmon, herrings and
plaice. Our crews had plenty at every meal, and we,
deemed this fifh, and the herbs with which we fea-
foned them, during a ftay of three days, a prefervative
againft the fcurvy, of which none of the crew had
till then the leaft. fymptom, notwithftanding the
damp and cold occafioned by the almoft uninter-
rupted fogs. To thefe we had oppofed chafing difhes
placed under the hammocks, when the weather did
not admit of bringing them up. © |
It
1787.
o us a
h were
could
> moît
)JwWevers
ificul-
| natu-
fervative.
rew had
img the
uninter-
g difhes
ather did
It
1787.] ROUND FAB WORLD. 35
It was after one of thefe fifhing parties that we
» difcovered à Tartar tomb by the fide of a brook,
near a ruined houfe, and almoft buried in the grafs.
Our curiofity led us to.apen it, and we found two
. bodies placed fide by fide. Their heads were co-
vered with a taffeta cap, and their bodies wrapped in
a bear’s fkin, with a girdle of the fame, to which
were fufpended fome {mall pieces of Chinefe money,
and various trinkets of copper.. Blue beads of glafs
were fpread about. in. every part, and we found ten
or twelve filver bracelets, as we fuppofed, weigh-
ing a quarter of an ounce each (which we aft. rwards
found to be ear-rings), an iron hatchet, a knife of
the fame metal, a wooden fpoon, a comb, and a little
bag of blue nankeen filled with rice. Nothing was
yet in a ftate of decompofition, and we could not ima-
gine this monument more than twelve months old:
Its workmanfhip appeared inferior to that of the tombs
_ in Frenchman's Bay. It confifted of a {mall enclofure:
| formed of pieces of trees, clothed with the bark of
birch. Between thefe a {pace was left for the bo-
dies. We reftored every thing to its place with the
moft fcrupulous minutenefs, except taking away a very
fmall portion of the various articles contained in the
tomb, in order to eftablifh our difcoveries. We had
no room to doubt that the hunters of Tartary fre-.
quently landed in this bay. A canoe, left near the
tomb, informed us that they came by fea, doubtlefs
from the mouth: of fome river we had not yet per-
ceived. 54 3
. The Chinefe coins, the blue nankeen, the taffeta,
and the caps, prove that the inhabitants have a re-
gular commerce with the Chinefe, and are probably -
fubjeéts of that empire. :
The rice in the little blue. nankeen bag marks @
Chinefe cuftom, founded on an opinion, that our
wants continue in another life. Lafily, the hatchet,
the knife, the bear-fkin “slosk, and the comb, have the.
ftrongeft ©
36 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE f1787.
ftrongeft refemblance to thofe ufed by the American |
Indians.. But as thefe nations never had any com- :
munications, may we not juftly conclude, from thefe
points of fimilarity, that men in the fame degree of
civilization and equal latitude, adopt nearly the fame
éuftoms ; and that, were they placed in-circumftances
éxactly fimilar, they would not differ from each other
more than the wolves of Canada from thofe of Eu-
rope. ? ss
i Notwithftanding the beautiful appearance this part
of eaftern Tartarÿ prefented, yet it offered no inte- .
refting objects to our botanifts and mineralogifts.
Its plants, and the fubftances which compofe the foil,
are precifely the fame as thofe of Europe. The
fchifts, quartzes, jafper, violet porphyry, fmall cryftals,
and amygdaloids, form the fpecimens from the beds of
rivers, but we did not perceive the lcaft traces of any
of the metals. Iron ore, fo general over the whole fur-
face of the globe, only appeared decompofed in a ftate
of oxyd, or as the colouring matter of different ftones..
* Sea and land birds were alfo very rare. We faw.
however, feveral ravens, turtle doves, quails, wagtails,
fwallows, fly-catchers, albatroffes gulls, puffers, bit.
terns, and wild ducks. But nature was not here diver-
fified with the innumerable fpecies of birds found in
other uninhabited countries. At the bay of Ternai
they appeared but as folitary individuals, and the pro--
foundeft filence reigned within the woods. Shells
were equally fcarce ; we only found on the fand the.
fpoils of mufcles, lepas, periwinkles, and purple-fith.
* At length, on the: morning of the 27th, having left
on fhore various medals, and a bottle with an infcrip- :
tion, containing the date: of our arrival; and the
wind having changed to the fouthward, E fet fail,
and ranged along the’ coaft at the diftance of
two miles from the fhore, the depth ‘of water be-
ing always forty fathoms over a bottom of fand and
mud, and clofe enough in fhore ‘to diftinguifh the
34 | mouth
NE
RS Se oe Oe
(1787.
om thefe
legree of
the fame
mftances
ach other
> of Eu-
this part
ralogifts.
the foil,
x. The
leryftals,
Le beds of
es of any
rhole fur-
in a ftate
nt ftones..
We faw.
wagtails.
ffers, bit-
ere diver-
found in
of Ternai
| the pro--
3... Shells
fand the.
rple-fifh.
aving left
nänfcrip- :
and the
E fet fail,
fiance of
vater be-
fand and
guifh the
mouth
Imérican
com- :
no inte- .
1787:] + OUND THE WORLD. © 37
‘mouth of the fmalieft rivulet. We made 50 leagues
in this'manner, in the -fineft weather feamen could
defire; On'the 29th, the wind changing to the north-
ward at eleven o'clock at night, I was obliged: to tack .
to the eaftward, and thus to.gain the o ng... Our -
latitude was then 46°, 50’ N. and we again ftood in
for the land the next day. Although the weather was |
very foggy, yet the horizon extending three leagues
from us, we furveyed the fame coaft:we:had perceived
the evening before in the north, and which now, bore
weft from us. It was lower and more divided by fmall
hills, and the depth of water, at two leagues from
the (hore, was only 30.fathoms over a bottom of rock.
We remained in a dead calm. on this {pecies of bank,
_and took more thdn 80 cod. A light breeze from.the
‘fouth enabled us to haul off from it during the night,
and at day-light we again faw the Jand four leagues
diftant.; It feemed,only to extend to the N.N..W.,
‘but the fog concealed its. more northerly points.
We continued ranging along very near the. .coaft,
whofe direction was N, by, E. On the 1ft of July,
a thick fog having enveloped: us when fo near the
land, as to hear the furf breaking on the fhore, I
made the fignal to.anchor, the depth of water being 30
fathoms over a bottom of mud and broken fhells.
The weather was fo foggy till the 4th, that it was
mpoffible for us to take any bearings, or to fend a
boat on fhore, but we caught abové 800 cod. I order-
ed the excefs of our confumption to be falted and
put in barrels. Our dredge alfo brought up a great
quantity of oyfters,-of which the fhells were fo
fine, that it feemed highly probable they might con-
tain pearls, although we had only found two half form-
ed. This circumftance adds probability to the relations
of the Jefuits, who inform us, there is a pearl fifhery
‘atthe mouth of feveral rivers of eaftern Tartary : but
we mutt fuppofe this fifhery to be in.the neighbour-
hood of Corea; for, farther north, the country is too
| +04 thinly
88 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787.
thinly inhabited for that mode of employment; fince,
in running down two hundred leagues of this coat,
“often within gun-fhot, and always at a {mall diftance
from the land, we neither perceived canoes nor houfes ;
and we only faw, when on fhore, the traces of a few
hanters, who do not appear to have any dwelling in
the places we vifited.
“On the 4th, at three in the morning, we had a fine
“$nterval of clearweather, when we took the bearings
“of the land as far as N. E. by N., and had abreaft of
“us, bearing W. N. W., diftant two miles, an exteñ-
‘five bay, into which a river 15 or 20 toifes wide
diftharged itfelf, A boat was fent off from each
frigate; nnder the commiand of Meflis. Vaujuas and
“Darbaud, to reconnoitre it: Meéfirs. de Monneron,
‘Ja Martinière, Rollin, Bernizet, Collignon, the abbé
‘Mongès, ‘end’ Father Receveur, were on board.
They eafily effected a tanding, and found the water
gradually fhoaling towards the fhore.. The face of
the country is nearly fimilar te~that of the bay of
Térnai; and, though three degreës: more to the
“northward, its productions, and the fübftances that
compofe its foil, are almoft the fame. :
_ The traces of inhabitants were here much more
recent. We faw branches of trees.cut with à fharp
imftrument, on which the leaves ftill continued green.
Two elk-fkins extended with great {kill on fmall pieces.
of wood, had been left by the fide of a {mall fut, not
large enough to lodge a family, but fufficient to afford
fhelter for two or three hunters. Perhaps it even
‘then contained a few of thofe who had fled, through
fear, to the woods. M. de Vaujuas was of opinion
that he ought to take one of thefe fkins ; but left in
exchange hatchets, and iathet inftruments of iron, of
an hundred times the value ‘of the fkin, which he fent
tome. The report of this officer, and that of- the
naturalifis, excited no defire to praleng my ftay in
this bay, which I named the bay of Suffren, regi
‘11767.
ts; fince,
his co
1 diflance
Dr houfes ;
‘of a few
elling in
had a fine
> bearings
abreaft of
an exteti-
ifes wide
rom each
ujuas and
fonneron,
the abbé
m board.
the water
he face of
he bay of
re to the
nces that
uch more
th a‘fharp
red green.
nall pieces
Il frat, not
t to afford
ps it even
|, through
of opinion
but left in
of iron, of
ch he fent
hat of. the
ny flay in
CHAP.
' ROUND, THE WORLD.
“era. xviIL.
WE CONTINUE OUR COURSE #0 THE NOW Ant)
WE DESCRY A PEAK TO THÉ EASTWARD—WE PER<
| CÉIVE THAT WE ARE SAILING: IN À CHANNEL
‘WE SHAPE OUR COURSE TOWARDS THE ISLAND oF
SEGALIEN+—WE PUT INTO LANGLE BAY-—MANNERS
“AND CUSTOMS OF THE INHABITANTS—THEIR IN2
FORMATION DETERMINES US TO CONTINUE OUR
ROUTE TO THE NORTHWARD—-WE RANGE ALONG
THE COAST OF THE isLAND—Ww PUY INTO
D'ESTAING. BAY+-WR DEPART FROM THENCE—Wer
FIND THAT THE CHANNEL BETWEEN THE ISLAND
AND THE CONTINENT OF TARTARY 19 OBSTRUCTED
BY SAND-BANKS—WE ARRIVE IN THE BAY OF CAS-
TRIES ON THE COAST OF: ‘TARTARY. '
GOT under way from the bay of Suffren, with a
light breeze at N. E., which I hoped would enable
me to gain a ‘diftance from, the coaft. This bay‘is |
fituated, according to our obfervations, in 479,51‘ N,
lat. and 1379. 25° E. long. . During our departure we
ufed the drédge feveral times, and took fome oyfters,
to which their poulettes were attached, as welhas fome
fmall bivalve fhells, (fuch as are often found in pe-
trificd ftate in Europe, and to which, nothing ana:
logous has been feen, except of late, years on. the
coaft of Provence), fome large whelks, many fea
hedge-hogs of the common fort, a great quantity of
fiar-fifh and holothurice, with fome very fmall Pieces
of a beautiful coral.
The fog and, the ~ealm obliged us to. anchor a
leapre farther from the: fhore, in 44 fathoms water,
ever a bottom of fand and: waud; where, though wa
continued to catch cod, this was but a poor compenfa-
tion for the lofs of time, during which the feafon was
/ D 4 | advancing
40 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE (1787.
advancing too rapidly,confidering our defire of entirc-
ly exploring this fca At length on the 5th, notwith-
ftanding the fog, the breeze. having frefhened from
the S. W., I got uader fail, While at anchor, we
had, during a. clear interval. of about..ten minutes,
taken bearings of eight. or ten leagues of coaft to
the N..E. by N....Thus«we could advance, without,
inconvenience, : feven or eight leagues to the N. E.
by E., and I fhaped my courfe to that point, founding
every half hour ; for we could not fee at a diftance of
two, mufket-fhots, . We failed in this manner, in 50
athoms water, till dufk.. The wind then changed to
N..E. blowing very frefh, with a heavy rain.. The
barometer .fell to 274 inches, and we beat.about with
contrary winds the whole of the day, on the 6th of
July, when our latitude, by obfervation, was 48° N.,
and our longitude 138° 20° E.
At noon we had a clear interval, when we took
the bearings of fome fummits of mountains which
extended to the northward, but a fog: concealed’ the
lower part of the coaft; and we perceived no point
of land, although we were but three leagues off.
The night was extremely fine, and we ran parallel
with the coaft by moon-light. Its direétion was at
firft N. E., and afterwards N. N. E. ‘We. ranged
along it at day-break, and hoped to arrive before
night in the latitude of 50° N., the limit I had fixed
for quitting the coaft of Tartary, and returning to-
wards Jeflo and Oku-Jeffo ; being very certain, that
if thefe ‘had no real exiftence, we fhould at leaft fall in
with the Kuriles as we advanced to the eaftward, But
at eight. in. the morning we. got fight of an‘ ifland
which appeared very extenfive, and formed with Tar-
tary an opening of 30 degrees. : We did not diftin-
guifh any point of land, and could only take the
bearings of fome fummits of mountains,’ which ex-
tending‘as far as the fouth-eaft, indicated that we
were already confiderably advanced in the channel
“sh BME which
OO tn ee AM © nn ss .
Ch me
(1787.
f entirc-
otwith-
ed from
hor, we
ninutes,
coaft to
without,
e N. E.
ounding
tance of
Tr, in 50
anged. to
n. The
out with
e 6th of
489 N.,
we took
ns which
aled the
no point
D oe oe
\ parallel
om was at
> ranged
e before
ad fixed
ning to-
ain, that
aft fall in
ard. But
an ifland
ith Tar-
ot diftin-
take the
hich ex-
that we
channel
. which
1787.] : ROUND THE WORLD. _Al
which feparated it from the continent. Our latitude
was, at that time, 48° 35’ N.; and that of the Aftro-
labe, who had advanced: two leagues a-head, 48°
Ao’. Tat firft believed this land’ to be. the ifland of
Segalien, of which the fouthernmoft part had been
placed by geographers two degrees too’ much to the
northward; and I judged that if I fteered my courfe .
up the channel, I fhould'be forced to purfüe it till it
opened into the fea of Okhotfk, on account of the
obftinacy of the fouth winds, which at this feafon in-
ceffantly prevail in'thefe feas. This fituation would
have been an infupcrable obftacle ‘to: my defire of
fully explorins ‘his fea, and after having drawn a moft
exact chart of the coaft of Tartary, it only remained,:
in order to effect this plan, to range along the weft-
ern fide of the firft ifland I fhould meet with, as far.
as the 44th degree.’ I therefore’ fleered: my courfe
to the S. E. lat "Ve
. The appearance of this land was very different
from that of Tartary. We only perceived barren
rocks, whofe cavities fill retained the fnow. But we
were at too great a diftance to difcover the low:
lands, -which, like thofe: of the continent, might be
covered with trees and with verdure. The moft ele-
vated of thefe mountains, whofe fummit terminates.
like the chimney of a furnace, I named Pic Lamanon,
on account of its volcanic form, and becaufe the na-
turalift of that name has particularly directed his at-
tention to the various volcanic productions, KA
The fouth winds. obliged me to ply to windward
‘with all fails fet, in order to double the fouthern ex-
tremities of this new land, of which we had not yet
perceived the limits. We had only found an opportu-
nity, during afew minutes, to take the bearings of
the fummits of fome mountains, a thick fog hav-
ing enveloped us. But we got foundings three or
four leagues from the coaft- of Tartary to the weft-
ward; and in running to the eaftward, I tacked as
foon
Aa LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE l1787:
foon.as we found forty-eight fathoms water. J was
ignorant how fat difiant thefe foundings placed us
from the new difcovéred ifland : but in the midft of
this obfcurity, and with an horizon of lefs thar half a
Jeagte; we took'an-obfervätion of the latitude on the
oth of July, which was 48° 15’... The obflinacy of
the foutherly winds did not ceafe during the gth'and
10th, when they were accompanied with ‘a fog fo
thick, that we could fcarcely fee a mufket-fhot from
the fhip. We in a manner felt our way in this chan-
él, being certain that we had land from S. S. E.
round by E. and N.toS. W. The new reflections
to which this land bearing S. S. E. gave birth, al-
moft induced me to believe, we were not in the
channel of the ifland of Sagalien, to which no gea-
grapher has affigned fo foutherly a fituation, but ra-
ther.to the weftwatd of Jeffo, of which the Dutch
had, in all probability, run down the eaftern part; and.
that, as we had failed very near the coaft of Tartary,
we: had, without perceiving it, entered. the gulph
which Jeflo forms perhaps with this part of Afia. It
only remained for-us to difcover whether Jeffo is an
ifland or a peninfula, forming with Chinefe Tartary
the fame figure as Kamtfchatka with Ruffian Tartary.
} waited ‘with the greateft impatience for a clear in-
terval, in order to purfue the courfe that muft decide
this queflion ; and. it took: place in the afternoon of
the 11th. It is only in thefe foggy feas that very
cxtenfive horizons- prefent themfelves, though very
rarely, as if Nature were dcfirous, in a manner, to
compenfate by moments of the greateft clearnefs the
profound. and almoft eternal obfcurity which: fpreads
over all thefe feas. The curtain rofe at two jn the after -
noon, and we took bearings of the land from N, by E,°
to N. by W. The opening was but an angle of 22°
and a half, and feveral of our company declared they
faw fummits, of mountains’ which entirely \clofed it.,
This unce: tainty. of gpinion rendered me M Me
Er cide
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 43
cided what plan to adopt. It would have bcenexe .
tremely inconvenicnt to bear away 20 or 30 leagues
to the northwärd, if we were really within fight of the
top of the gulph, becaufe the feafon. was advancing,
and we could not expect to beat up thefe 20 leagues ,
againft the fouth wind in lefs than eight or ten days,
fince we hagkadvanced but 12 leagues in thécourfe of
the five dae we had been plying to windward in this
channel. On the other hand, the objeét of our-voy- . *
age was not accomplithed, if we miffed the ftrait
that divides Jeffo from Tartary. I therefore thought
it better to put in, and endeavour to procure intor-
mation from the natives, On the 11thand 12th the
weather was clear, in confequence: of, a:yerÿ ftrong
breeze, and we were obliged to reef our fails. We
approached within a league of the ifland, whofe coaft
yan due north and fouth. I was defirous of finding
a bight, where our, veflels might be fheltered, but
the coaft did not offer the fmalleft inlet, and the fea
was as high half a. league. off the fhore as in the of-
fing, Thus although we had a fandy bottom, which
was {o level as only to vary from 18 to 30 fathoms in *
the fpace of fix leagues, I was abliged to continue to
beat up againft the fouth wind with all fails fet.
The diftance from whence I had firft defcried this
coaft Igd me into an error, but when I approached
nearer, I found it as well wooded as that of Tartary.
At length, in the evening of the 12th July, the breeze
from the fouthward having confiderably abated, I
neared the land, and dropped anchor in 14 fathoms
water in a bottom of fand and mud, two miles from a
fmall creek inte which a river difcharged itfelf. : M,
de Langle who had anchored an hour before me, came
immediately on board. He had already hoifted out
his jolly and long boats, and propofed landing before
night, to reconnoitre the country, and difcover Whe-
ther we could derive any information from the inha-
bitants. ‘We perceived by the aid. of our glafies
_fome
_ 44 * LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE
fome hutey end. two:of the inhabitants who feenied t
. Eaccepted the ‘ot
niteeatieted. him to, tak:
« the abbé Mongès, and when, we h
«.-chored and furled our md mae our boats hoi P
I manned the pr | ng it under.the a |
‘mand of M, Clonard, le 14
Prevoft and Coli ere Pe
py de ine who rd
wasia. ttn of poppi whofe eyes were not yet open:
ed, while the mo er, who was: heard barking in the.
‘wood, indicated that the, P rietors of thefe dwell
ings were not: far diftant. ..M.'de Langle left fome’
Sai ra og Pr of. on fome: Beads, and 2
heral; Whatever he:thoughtmof ufeful and agree-
e to thefe, Mlanders, in the perfuafion,.that as Toca
as'he had re-embarked the inhabitants would return;
‘and thatour: en agora, convince them, we were
* notenemies.: He.alfo-had the feine hauled, and took :
at si more falhon: than would ferve the crews ie * i |
week. ‘'Atthé moment when he was. going to re co
ona Re ‘faa ‘canoe-with feven men come, afhore, : #
who did ‘not a pour ths cat sar eae at our frumbers,
They ran their Littl the fand, and
fat upon matte inthe middle of pia Hors, with an air
of confidence which prejudiced: ‘them much in their
fayour.. -Among the number were two old men with
long white beards, :clothed with a :ftuff: made of the
bark of trees, fimilar’ to the cottons for negroes in
Madagafcar : two. of thefe Iflanders had. habits of
quilted nankeen; and the form of thcir drefs differed.
but little from that of the Chinefe. . Others had only
ajong: robe entirely « clofed by ‘means of a girdle, and
fone fmall buttons which rendered ‘drawers unnecefs
té on — were uncovered, and two or sk
0
#
di)
il a
Ss
SS
Pe
12
Æ
LA
L F4
Z
|
LE \
ZB
LA
À 4
ESS
NS K
x
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 45
of them wore asfillet of bear-fkin, They had the
crown of the head and. faces fhaved, but behind, all
the hair remained to the length of eight or ten.inches,
though in a different manner from that of: the Chi-
nefé, who only have a round tuft of hair which th
call pentfec. ‘They had all boots of feal’s-fkin wi
a foot refembling that of the Chinefe, manufac-
tured with the greateft art. ‘Their/arms were pikes
and bows,,and arrows tipt with iron. The oldeft
of théfe Iflanders to whom the others fhewed the
a gi regard, had very weak eycs, and wore on his :
ead a fhade to defend him from the, light of the
fun. The manners of thefe inhabitants were grave,
noble, and affeétionate. M. de Larigle prefented
them the remainder of “he articies h: hod brought
with him, and gave them to Andirftas:) by gas, that
the night obliged him to return cn board, but that he
was very defirous of meeting item again the nékt
day, in order to bring them new proferits.. They figs
nified, in reply, that they fhon!d pais the night mn the
neighbourhood, and would be r'unétual to she ren-
dezvous. :
We concluded that thete were proprietors of a tva
gazine of fifh we had met with, on the bauks othe
fmall river, and which wets raifes!. upon fakes four
or five fect above the ground.’ M. de Langle wher.
he approached it, had the fame refpect for it os for, -
the deferted cottage. He found there faltaon and
herrings, dried and fmoked, biadsers filled: wish cit,
and fkins of falmon, which were as thin 28 pare’mmeni.
This magazine was too confiderable ir the fublifi-
ance of a.fingle family, and ke coneluded thet tbefe
people trafficked in thefe.articles. Our boats did not
return on board till near cleven at night, and their ‘
report excited my moft lively curiofity. I waited
with impatience the return of day, and was on
- fhore with. the “vawl and long-boat before fun-rife.
The iflanders arrived in the creek foon afterwards.
i They
D 46 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787.
They: éamé from the north, where: we-had judged
“their village to be fituated, dnd: were ‘foon follow-
ed by a fecond canve: : Their companies amonnted
to 21, among! whonr: were thie: proprietors :of the
huts, whole: confidence the articles ‘left by:.M. de
Langle' bad reftored. But: they brought no women,
-and weshave reafon to think they are ‘extremely jea-
Jous;of them. : We: heard dogs barking:in the woods,
‘and thefé animals had probably: remained ‘with:the
.women.. Our hrnters weré defirous of enteritig the
foreft: but the:inbabitants urged: us in the moft pref-
fing manner, not: to approach the {pot from whenc
we'heard the barking, and as }intended:to make im:
portant enquiries of them, I was defirous to infpire
‘ them with confidence, and therefore gave orders not
to oppofe them in any thing. |
. M. de Langle with :almoft aft his oitticers arrived
prefently after us, and ‘before our converfation with
the inhabitants commenced. It was preceded by
prefents of various kinds. ‘They feemed, however;
to put no value on any but thofe which were ufeful.
Tron and fiuffs prevailed above every thing. They
knew the metals as well as ourfelves, and: preferred
filver to copper, copper to iron, &c. They were
very poor, oy three or four of them had:filver ear-
rings, adorned with blue beads, exaétly fimilar to
thofe we had found in the tomb at the bay of Ternai,
and which I had taken for bracelets. » Their other
» little ornamerits were copper, like thofe. in the fame
tomb. Their pipes, and fteels for lighting them, ap-
peared to be Chinefe, or Japanefe, and the former
were of tutenag perfectly well executed. ‘They
gave.us to underftand, by pointing with their hand
to the weft, that the bluc nankeen with which fome
- of them were cloathed, their beads,:and their fteels,
came from the country of the Mantchous, and they.
pronounced, that name precifely as we do. Obferv-
ing afterwards, that each of us held a:paper and pencil
in
*,
1787.) ROUND THE-WORLD: | 4
in his band, to form a vocabulary of their language,
they mens À gueffed our intention, and ‘antici
ting our qu ions, prefented the various: objects;
added the name of the country, and were fufficiently
complaifant to repeat them four or five times, till we”
had learnt their pronunciation. ‘The facility with
which they had gueffed our intention; leads me to
- conclude, that the art of writing is known to them,
and one of thefe Iflanders who, as we fhall fee traced
the outlines of the country, held a pencil in the
fame manner as the Chinefe. ‘They feemed to have
a great defire for our ‘hatchets and ftuffs, ‘arid éven:
ventured to afk for them. But they were equally:
ferupulous with ourfelves, in not accepting ‘any
thing but what we gave them. ft'was evident, their
ideas of theft were in no refpeét different from our
ewn, and I fhould not have hefitated to have trufted
them: with guarding our property. Their forupu-,
loufnefsin this refpeét, extended to the not taking up:
from the beach any of the falmon we had caught,
although ‘they laid there by thoufands : ‘for our fuc-'
m cefs had been equally abundant with that of the pre-
| ceding evening, and we wereïobliged to prefs them.
feveral times to take as many as they wifhed. 25
We at left fucceeded in making them underftand
| that we wifhed them to deforibe the figure of their
country, an. that of the Mantchous: One of ‘the:
| old men then rofe, and traced ‘with the end of* his:
pike the coaft of Tartary to the weft, running near:
ly north and fouth. Oppofite to this, in thé fame’
direction to the eaftward, he reprefented his own:
ifland ; and placing his hand upon his breaft, he
gave us to underftand, this was his own country.
He had left a ftrait between it and Tartary, and
turning towards our veffels, which he perceived from
the fhore, he indicated, by another line, that we
might pafg that way. To the fouth of this iflend he
reprefented another, and left a ftrait, fignifying this
to
48 * LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE . [1787.
to.be another courfe for our veflels. : He ‘difcovered
wonderful: fagacity in guefling our .queftions, but
was even: exceeded: by another jflander, about:thirty
years of ‘age, who perceiving that the figures on the
“fand'were foon effaced, took. one of our pencils and
perk a and delineated his own ifland,
which he called: Tchoka, and defignated by a line the
Little river:on whofe: bank we: ftood; and which he
placed at two thirds of the Jength of: the ifland from
north:to fouth.: He afterwards laid down the coun-
try. of the Mantchous, leaving, like the ‘old man, a
ftrait at. the: top of the bight; and, to our great
furprize, he added the river Segalien, whofe name
thefe iflanders:pronounced like ourfelves. He placed
the mouth of this river a little to the fouthward of the
northernmofc point of his ifland, and marked by fe-
veral ftrokes, the number of days neceffary for. a ca-
noe to reach it from the place where we. ftood ;: but
as their canoes never go above a piftol-fhot from the
fhore, and follow the windings of the little creeks, we
Lana gers advance in a ftrait line above nine
eagues per day; : for as the coaft. admits of landing
every where, they go afhore to drefs their provifions
and take their meals, and it is probable they make fre-.
- quent réfis: We therefore cftimated our diftance from
the extremity of the ifland at fixty-three leagues at
» moft:: The fame iflander repeated, what we had been
alréatly ‘told; that they procured nankeens'and other.
articlesof commerce by their: communication :with-
the: banks of the river Segalien, and he denoted by
fimilar marks, the number of days employed by a
canoe in afcending this river to the place with which
they traded. All the other iflanders were prefent at
this converfation, and fignified by their. geftures their
approbation of their countryman’s difcou: fe... We
were now defirous of knowing if this ftrait, was very
broad, and endeavoured to make him underftand
our idea. He caught our meaning, and placing his.
eo : two
m= cncip
| bo gain
-M
| events
ae witho
| d gave
both Al
| where
captai
| amore |
and pe
1787
two |
of tv
unde
of the
ing t
and j
the f
Wer
led hi
paces
He fe
over :
Wet
| the ri
their |
the fi
| he ba
In th
| and t
veflels
were {
wheth
which
We
countr
anet wi
tion,
VoL.
ks, we
re nine
nding
vifions
kefre-
efrom
ues at
d been
1 other.
with-
ed by
L'by a
which
ent at
bs their
. We
AS very
erftand
ng his.
two
1787.) ROUND THE WORLD. 40
two hands perpendicular and parallel, at the diftance,
of two or three inches from each other, gave us to
underftand, that.he meant thus to defcribe the width
of the finall river where we got our water. By widen-
ing them, he fignified the width of the river Segalien,
and in the fame manner the much greater width. of
the firait which feparated his country from Tartary.
We now withed to know its depth of water. We
led him to the edge of the river, which was but ten
paces from us, and paunged the end of a pike in.
He feemed to underftand us, and placed one hand
over the other, at a diftance of five or fix inches,
| We thought he meant thus to fignify the depth of
| the river Segalien. He then extended his arms to
| their full length, as if to communicate the depth of
the ftrait. It now remained to afcertain whether
he had been deferibing abfolute or relative depths,
In the firft cafe the ftrait was but a fathom deep,
| and thefe people, who had never approached our
| veflëls, might fuppofc three or four fect of. water
were {ufficient for us, fince three or four inches were
D encugh for their canoes ; but it was impoflible for us
to gain farther information in this refpect.
M, de Langle and myfelf thought that, in all :
events, it was of the greateft importance to difcover
| whether the ifland we were ranging along was that to
which geographers have given the name of Segalien,
without fufpecting. its extent to the fouthward ; and
| I gave orders to prepare every thing on board for
| both fhips-failing the next. day, I called the, bay
where we Jay’ at anchor Baie de Langle, from that
captain, who difcovered it, and firft landed there.
Weemployed the reft of the day in exploring the
country and vifiting its inhabitants. We had not
| anet with any, fince our departure from France, who
|inore firongly excited our curiofity and admira-
tion. We knew that the moft numerous nations,
and perhaps thofe moft anciently civilized, inhabit
Vou. II. E the
50 | LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787
the neighbouring countries; but it does not appear
they ever conquered thefe iflands, for there’ was:
nothing to tempt their cupidity, and it was totally
contrary to our ideas to find among a people of
hunters and fifhermen, who do not cultivate a fin-
gle produétion of the earth, and who are deftitute
of flocks, manners generally more gentle, more fe-
rious, and perhaps a more comprehenfive intellect,
than in any nation of Europe. Affuredly the know-
ledge of the informed claffes of Europeans much
exceeds that of the twenty-one iflanders with whom
we communicated in Langle Bay; but among the
inhabitants of thefe iflands their knowledge is more
generally diffeminated than among the lower clafles
of European nations. Here every one feemed to
have received the fame education. We no longer
obferved the ftupid ftare of the Indians of Port des
Frangais, though our arts and manufactures at-
tracted the attention’ of the inhabitants of Langle
Bay, who turned and examined thefe manufactures
every way, converfed of them among themfelves, and
endeavoured to difcover by what means they-had
been fabricated. The ufe of the fhuttle is known to
them. [I brought away a machine with which they
make cloth entirely fimilar to ours ; but the thread is
made of the bark of willow, which is very common
in this ifland, and feemed to differ, very little from
that of France. Although they do not cultivate the
earth, they profit by its ffontaneous productions
with the moft active intelligence.. We found in
their huts many roots of a fpecies of lilly, which our
botanifts recognized to be the yellow lilly, or fa-
ranna of Kamtfchatka, which they dry, for their |
food in winter. They had alfo great quantities of
garlic and angelica, which are found on the fkirts
of their woods. Our fhort ftay did not permit us
to inveftigate whether they have a form of govern-
ment, nor can we hazard a conjecture on that fub-
ject,
[1787
ot appear
vere | was’
s totally
eople of
ate a fin-
deftitute
‘more fe-
intellect,
he know-
ns much
ith whom
mong the
e is more
ver claffes
eemed to
no longer
f Port des
Gtures at-
of Langle
nufactures
felves, and
| they-had
; known to
which they
e thread is
common
little from .
altivate the
roductions
found in
which our
illy, or fa-
| for their
iantities of
the fkirts
| permit us
of govern-
that fub-
ject,
ih
CMY
2
\
NN
ANSEL eee an
SAN
\
Wy
SN
ees CINE. F5 Av.
LA Me
ee S
1787.). ROUND THE WORLD. — 51
ject, though we cannot doubt but they have great
refpect and confideration for theit old men, and that
their manners’ are -yery-igenties».Were they fhep-
herds, and had:th fear flock ay Ee fhould form
no other idea ‘of: the manr . nd:
triarchs. » ous à
ably hairy.' ‘
one ‘who :
were tots ae five ‘feet. re Tey be itted our
Mer À to draw them," but ftedfaftly refifted the:defire
of M. Rollin, our furgeon, ‘who. wifhed to take
the dimenfions of their ‘bodies. “They thought it
perhaps fome magical op i for. we know front
travellers that. this: idea of magic: is ‘extremely ge-
neral in | China: and: Tartayy’ cand: that; they: |
due ve in baptizing ine.
‘cir perfifting in ‘con:
oving’ them to a'difà’
es: we have: to: make
ds À i où a dy Fab eating he
ats of: ‘éxportation: We:onl traded: He. taie
js
tens"tkins: We faw bears” iki s; and-thofe of ' feale; -
cut in pieces for articles af idrefé ; but: thefe: were
‘from numerous. ‘The fürs. of thefe iflands: would
be!but very trifling objects of commerce. We found
fome round pieces of coal ilying:'6n the fhore, but
not @ firigle ftone ‘that contained: either | gold i iron;
or copper.'} Tam very much'inelined to think they
“have nominés in their ‘mountains. : “AN the filver
trinkets ofithefe twenty-one iflanders did not amount
to two oufites;. and a medal with a filver chain which
BA *x .- I put
52 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787.
I put round the neck of an old man, appeared to
them of ineftimable value. Each of the inhabitants
wore on his thumb a large thick ring of ivory, horn,
or lead.. They let their nails grow like the Chinefe,
and ufe the fame falutation, throwing themfelves on
their knees, and then proftrating themfelves on the
earth, Like them they fit on mats, and eat with
little flicks, But ifthey have a common origin with
the Chinefe and the Tartars, their feparation from
them is very ancient, for they have no refemblance
to thofe nations in their perfon, and very little in
their manners, ;
. The Chinefe we had on board, did not underftand
a fingle word of the language of thefe iflanders,
though they were perfectly acquainted with that of
two Mantchou Tartars who had come from the:con-
tinent a fortnight or three weeks before, perhaps in
order to make fome purchafe of fifh.
We did not meet with them til} the afternoon.
They converfed, by word of mouth, with one of our
Chinefe, who well underftood the Tartar tongue,
They related the fame particulars of the geography
of the country, orly changing the names, becaufe in
all probability each language has itsown. The drefs
of thefe Tartars was grey nankeen, like thofe of the
coulis or porters at Macao. Their hat was pointed,
and made of bark, they had the tuft of hair or. pent/ec
of the Chinefe, but their countenance and manners
were much lefs agreeable than thofe of the inhabitants
of the ifland. They faid they lived at a diftance
of eight days journey, on the upper part of the river
Segalien. All thefe circumftances, added to. what
we had feen on the coaft of :Tartary, very near to
which we had failed, led us'to think the fhotes of
this part of Afia were almoft deftitute df inhabitants,
from the 42d degree, or the confines of Corea, to the
river Segalien ; that mountains, perhaps inaceeffible,
feparate this maritime country from the refi af
gris À a | Fartary,
33.0
os à ©
(1787.
ared to
abitants
r, horn,
hinefe,
lves on
on the
pat with
vin with
on from
blance
little in
derftand
flanders,
h that of
the con-
haps in
ternoon.
1e of our
tongue,
cography
ecaufe in
Che drefs
fe of the
pointed,
or. pentfec
manners
habitants
- diftance
the river
to what
near to
fhotes of
habitants,
ea, to the
wccefhble,
e reft of
Fartary,
1787.4 ROUND THE WORLD. 58
Tartary, and that they could only arrive there b
fea, and by thence afcending fome rivers; althoug
we had not perceived one ftream of any magnitude.*
The huts of thefe iflanders are built with fkill, and
every precaution is taken againft cold. They are of
wood, covered with the bark of birch, and have a
roof of wood, thatched with dried ftraw, arranged’
like the cottages of our peafants. The door is very
low, and placed in the gable end, the fire in the
middle, under an opening ir the roof for the fmoke.
Little benches or planks, eight or ten inches high,
run round them, and the infide is lined with mats.
The hut here defcribed, was fituated in the middle
‘of a wood of rofes, 100 paces from the fea. Thefe
fhrubs were in flower, and. exhaled a delicious fra-
grance, but could not compenfate the fmell of the
fifth and oil, which would have overpowered all the
perfumes of Arabia. We were defirous to know
whether the olfactory fenfations, like thofe of the
palate, depend on habit, I therefore gave one of the
old men a flafk of the fwceteft fcented water. When
putting it to his nofe, he fhewed the fame repug-
nance to it as we had felt for his oil. He had his
pipe conftantly in his mouth, and his tobacco was of
a very good quality and in large leaves. If I
rightly underftoed them, they procured it from
Tartary, but they clearly explained that their pipes
came from the ifland to the fouthward, by which,
doubtlefs, they meant Japan. Our example could
not induce them to take fnuff; and it would have
been rendering them a differvice to have taught
them a new want. I was aftonifhed to hear among
the words of their language, of which I have inferted
* Thefe Iflanders never gave us to underftand they carried
on any trade with the coaft of Tartary, which, however, they were
acquainted with, fince they delineated it, but only with a people
who dwell at a diftance of eight days journey on the upper part of .
the Segalien, . ;
E 3 ‘a voca-
54 LA, PEROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787,
a vocabulary at the end of Chap. XXI. the word
Ship for a veffel, and too, tree, for the numbers two
and three. Do not thefe Englifh expreffions demon-
ftrate that a few fimilar words are not fufficient ta
prove a common origin ?*
On the 14th of July, at day break, I made the
fignal for getting under way, with a foutherly wind
and hazy weather, which foon changed in a very
thick fog. Till the 19th there was not the fmalleft
alteration. I fhaped my courfe N. W. towards
the coaft of Tartary, and when, according to our
reckoning, we were on the fpot from whence we
had difcovered Lamanon Peak, we hauled our wind,
and plied to windward, under eafy fail, in the chan-
nel, waiting till the obfcurity cleared up, which I
do not think can be equalled by that of any other
fea. At length it cleared up for a moment, and in
the morning of the tyth, we faw the land of the
ifland, extending from N. E. by N. to E. S. E. but
it was fill fo covered with vapours, that it was im-
poffible for us. to recognize any of the points which
we had fet by the compafs the precedings days. ]
ftood on to approach it, but we foon loft fight of it.
Guided, however, by our foundings, we continued to
range along it till two o’clock in the afternoon, when
we anchored two miles from the fhore, to the wefi-
ward of a very good .bay, in twenty fathoms .water,
over a bottom of fmall gravel. “At four’ the fog dif-
* On the contrary, thefe words would give the Kin ‘of Great
Britain a title to the fovereignty of thefe iflands and feas, at leaft,
equally authentic with that under which fome princes have claimed
a right to territories many thoufand miles from their lawful domi-
nions. To be ferious, however, thefe words ‘may furnifh matter
ra 7 for the geographer, the politician; and the philo.
AA PEN to remark, that the French writer has fpelt them
fo as to produce thefe Englifh founds in a French mouth: thus,
chip, tol, iri. Perhaps the natives pronounced the #b in three as
we do. Buta French ear is as little adapted to feize, as their other
organs are to pronounce, the found.—TZran/lator’s note.
perfed
ed Del fes M oe ae bein ee ee ee | ein et ee oe ee ee ee ee pb im = 2 =
(1787,
e word
ers two
demon-
cient ta
ade. the
ly wind
a ver
fmalleft
towards
to our
ence we
ir. wind,
1e chan-
which. I
y other
, and in
1 of the
E. but
was im-
ts which
days. |
ht of it.
inued to
n, when
he weft-
is water,
fog dif-
of Great
as, at leaft,
ve claimed
wful domi-
ifh matter
the philo.
fpelt them
uth: thus,
in three as
their other
perfed
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 55
rfed, and we took the bearings of the land afiern of
us N. to the E. by E. I gave to this bay, the beft in
which we had anchored fince our departure from Ma-
nilla, the name of Baie dEflaing. Its latitude is
48° 59’ north, its longitude 140° 32/ caft. Our
boats landed there at four in the afternoon, near ten
or twelve huts, placed without order, at a confider-
able difiance from each other, and about one hun-
dred paces from the fea. They were rather more con-
fiderable than thofe I have defcribed, and built with
the fame materials, but were divided into two apart-
ments ; the fartheft containing all their little houfe-
hold furniture, the fire-place, and the bench that runs
around, while that next the door was entirely empty,
and feemed appropriated to receiving vifits: firan-
gers apparently not being admitted into the prcfence
_of the women. . Some of our officers, however,
met two of them, who had concealed themfelves ia
the grafs. When our boats landed in the creek
the women were terrified, and fcreamed, as if in
fear of being devoured, although under the pro-
tection of an iflander, who was conducting them
homewards, and endeavoured to quiet the‘r alarm.
M. Blondela had time to take a drawing of them,
and was particularly happy in reprefenting their
countenance, which is rather extraordinary but plea-
fing. Their eyes are finall, their lips thick, and the
upper part painted or tattooed with blue, for it was
not poffible to afcertain which was the fact. Their
legs werg naked, but a long linen night- gown cover-
ed them ; and as they were bathed in the dew of the
grafs, this night gown clung to their bodies, and per-
mitted the painter to defcribe their exact thape, which,
however, was inelegant. Their hair was. of its full
Yength, and the top of their head was not fhaved like
that of the men. |
. M. de Langle, who firft landed, found the Iflanders
ou tage E 4 collected
56 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE (1797.
collected round four canoes laden with fmoked fith ;
they were helping to launch them into the water, and
he learned that the 24 men who formed the crews were
Mantchous, and that they had come from the banks
of the Segalien to buy fith. He held a long con-
vérfation with them by means of our Chinefe, to
whom they gave the beft reception. They faid, like
our firft geographical inftruétors of Langle Bay, that
the land we were ranging along was an ifland, and gave
it the fame name, adding, that we were five days of
their navigation from its extremity; but that, with a
fair wind, we might make this run in two, and fleep
each night on fhore. Thus every thing we had there
learned was confirmed in this bay, though exprefled
with lefs intelligence by the Chinefe, who ferved as
our interpreters. M. de Langle alfo obferved, in a
corner of the ifland, a kind of circus formed with 15
or 20 ftakes, each of them adorned with the head of
a bear; the bones of thofe animals lying difperfed in:
the vicinity. As the inhabitants have no fire arms, but
engage the bears front to front, and their arrows can
only wound: this circus: feemed deftined to come
meinorate their exploits, and the 20 heads of bears
it exhibited, to denote the victories they had gained
ten years fince, if we might judge by the flate of de-
‘compofition of the majority of them. ‘The produc-
tions and component fubftances of the foil are exact-
ly fimilar to thofe of Langle Bay. Salmon was very
common there, and every hut had its magazine. We
difcovered that thefe people confume the head, the
tail, and the back-bone, and cure and fmoke the
two flanks for fale to the Mantchous, referving for
themfelves nothing but the flavour, which infeéts
their houfes, their furniture, their clothes, and even
the grafs that furrounds their villages. Our boats
~ at length put off at eight o’clock in the evening, after
we had loaded the Tartars and Iflanders with pre-
: fents.
[1787.
4 fifh ;
er, and
Ws were
e banks
ng con-
nefe, to
id, like
ay, that
nd gave
days of
, with a
nd fleep
id there
xprefied
erved as
ed, in a
with 15
head of
erfed in:
‘ms, but
“ows Can
of bears
| gained
e of de-
produc-
e exact-
was very
ne. We
ead, the
1oke the
‘ving for
h infects
ind even
ur boats
ng, after
ith pre-
fents.
to come
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD, 57
fents. They returned on board at three quarters
patt eight, and I gave orders to prepare for failing
the next day. ‘
The 2oth was a very fine day, and, we made the
beft obfervations, both of latitude and of diftances be-
tween the fun and moon, by which we corrcéted our
reckoning for the laft fix days, fince our departure
from Langle Bay, fituated in 47° 49/ N. lat. and 140°
29’ E. long., which laft differs but three minutes
from that of d’Eftaing Bay. The direction of the
weftern coaft of this ifland from 47° 39, where we:
had feen Langle Bay to 52°, being due north and
fouth, we ranged along it at fomething lefs than a
league diftance; and at feven in the evening, a thick
fog having furrounded us, we anchored in 37 fa-
thoms water over a bottom of mud and fmall pebbles.
The coaft was much fteeper and more mountainous
than on the fouth fide. But we perceived neither
fire nor habitation ; and, as night approached, we did:
not fend a boat a-fhore. However we took cight or
ten cod for the firft time fince we had quitted the
coaft of ‘Tartary, from whence we concluded, we
were near that continent, of which we had loft fight
from the 49th degree of latitude. :
Being obliged to follow one of thefe coafts, I pre-
ferred that of the ifland, in order not to mifsthe ftrait,
if there exifted one to the eaftward. This required
minute attention on account of the fogs, which
only afforded us very {hort intervals of clear wea-
her, Thus I kept the land clofe aboard, never
being farther than two leagues diftance, between:
Langle Bay and the extremity of the channel. My
conjectures on the vicinity of the coaft of Tartary
- were fo well founded, that as foon as our view be-
came a little more extenfive, we had a perfect view:
of it. The channel became narrower in 50°, and was
there only 12 or 13 leagues wide.
On the 22d, at night, I anchored a leagué from the
land,
|
'
HB
iw
| i
(à |
| |
ih
ni
ait
he
4
58 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
land, in 37 fathoms water, over a muddy bottom.
We had a-breaft of us a little river, and, three leagues
to the northward, a very remarkable peak, whofe bafe
is at the water’s edge, and its fummit, from what-
ever fide it is viewed, preferves the moft regular
form. It is covered with trees and verdure to its top.
I gave it'the name of Pic la Martinière, becaufe it
offered a fine field for the botanical refearches to
which that gentleman has devoted himfelf.. ;
Not having perceived any habitations, during the
time we ranged along the coaft of the ifland, from
d'Eftaing Bay, I was defirous of clearing up my
doubts on this fubject. I therefore manned four
boats belonging to both fhips, under the command.
of M. de Clonard, fecond captain, and ordered him
to reconnoitre the creek, into which a little river, of
which we perceived the channel, difcharged itfelf.
He returned at eight in the evening, and, to my great
furprize, had all his boats full of falmon, although
the crews had neither lines nor nets. This officer in-
formed me he had landed at the mouth of a rivulet
not more than 24 feet wide, and a foot deep, which
he found fo full of falmon, that its bottom was entirely
covered with-them, and our failors had killed 1200
in an hour with their fticks. On fhore he had only
found two or three deferted fheltering places, which
he fuppofed to have been ereéted by fome Mantchou
Tartars, who probably had come from the continent,
according to their cuftom, to trade with the fouthern-
moft part of the ifland: Vegetation was ftill more
vigorous here than in the bays where we had landed.
The trees were of a large fize, and celery and water-
crefles grew on the banks of the river. ‘This was
the firft time we had met with the latter fince our
departure from Manilla. They might alfo have ga-
thered enough of juniper-berries to have filled feveral
facks, but we gave the preference to herbs and &th.
Our botanifts made an ample collection of rare plants,
sin and
‘
[1787.
ottom-
>agues —
fe bafe
what-
egular
ts top.
aufe it
hes to
ng the
|, from
up my
d four
nmand.
od him
iver, of
‘itfelf.
y great
though
cer in-
rivulet
which
ntirely
d 1200
nd only
| which
ntchou
itinent,
thern-
| more
landed.
water-
his was
ce our
ve ga-
feveral
d. Sth.
olants,
and
1787] - ROUND THE WORLD. . 59
and our mineralogifts collected many cryftals of fpar,
and other curious. fiones. But they neither found
marcafites nor pyrites: nothing, in fhort, that indi-
cated any metallic mine. Firs and willows were
much more numerous than oak, maple, birch, or
medlars; and had other travellers landed a month
later, they would have found a plentiful crop of goofe-
berries, ftrawberries, and rafpberries, for they were
already in flower.
While the crews of our boats were on fhore col-
leCting this abundant harveft, we were employed in
catching cod, and a few hours furnifhed us with frefh
rovifions for a week. I gave this river the name of
Ruiffeau de Saumon, or Salmon River; and got under
way at day-break. We continued ranging clofe along
this ifland, which feemed to have no end to the north-
ward, although every point that ftretched out a little
to fea flattered me with that hope. On the 23d, we
obferved in 50° 54’ N. lat., and our longitude had
fcarcely varied from Langle Bay. In this latitude we
took the bearings of a very good bay, the o:::y one we
had feen in running along this ifland, that offcred a fe-
cure fhelter againft the winds from the channel. A
few habitations appeared difperfed upon the fhore near
a ravine, which indicated the bed of a river a little
more confiderable than thofe we had yet feen. I did
not think proper more particularly to reconnoitre this
‘bay, which Inamed Baie de la Jonquière. However I
fiood acrofs it, and:a league from the fhore the depth
of water was 35 fathoms over a muddy bottom ; but
I was fo prefled fur time, and the clear weather we
then enjoyed fo rare and fo precious to us, that I
thought it my duty to employ it in advancing to the
northward. Since we had got into the latitude of
50° N., I had entirely recurred to my former opinion,
and could no longer doubt that the ifland we were
ranging along from 47°, and which, according to the
information of its inhabitants, mufi extend much far-
| : | ther
— eg ES
marne ae
pret mme gr rome ep tm
© = =
60 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE. [1787.
ther to the fouthward, was the ifland of Segalien,
whofe northernmoft point has been determined by the
Rouffians in 54°, and which forms one of the longeft
iflanids in the world, in a direction from north to
fouth. Thus the pretended ftrait of Tefloy could only
be that which feparates the iflandof Segalienfrom Tar-
tary nearly in 52°. I was too far advanced not to be
defirous to reconnoitre the flrait, and’ to know whe-
‘ther it was navigable. I began, however, to fear it was
not, becaufe we fhoaled our water very fuddenly as
we advanced to the northward, and the land of Sega-
lien was little more than an aflémblage of fwampy
downs, almoît level with the water, and refembling
fand-banks.
' In the evening ofthe 23d, I anchored three leagues
from the land, in 24 fathoms water, over a muddy
bottom. I had found the fame foundings two
leagucs farther to the eaftward, and at one league from
the fhore, and from fun fet to the moment when we
anchored, I had made two leagues to the weftward,
exactly at right angles with the direction of the coaft,
in order to difcover whether the depth increafed in
proportion as we departed from Segalien ; but it was
conitantly the fame, and I began to fufpect that the
declivity was from north to fouth, in the direction of
the channel, nearly in the manner of a river, whofe
depth diminithes towards it fource.
On the 24th at day break we got under fail, fhap-
ing our courfe to the N. W. We fhoaled our wa-
ter to eighteen fathoms in three hours. I then gave
orders to fteer to weft, and we carried with us pre-
cifely the fame depth of water. I croffed the chan-
nel twice eaft and weft in order to fatisfy myfelf whe-
ther there was any fpace of deeper water, and thus
to find the pañlage if there was one. This was the
only reafonable plan in our prefent circumftances, for
the water fhoaled fo rapidly when our courfe was to the
northward, that for every league in this direction the
bottem
1787.
alien,
vy the
mgeft
rth to
d on!
n Taie
to be
whe-
it was
nly as
Sega-
ampy
bling
agues
nuddy
s two
e from
cn we
tward,
coaft,
fed in
it was
at the
ion of
whofe
| fhap-
hr wa-
à gave
Is pre-
chan-
| whe-
à thus
as the
es, for
sto the
on the
ottcm
1787.) | ROUND THE WORLD. 61
bottom rofe three fathoms. - Thus fuppofing a gra-
dual decreafe of depth, we were but fix leagues
from the top of the gulph, and yet we did not
perceive any current. ‘This ftagnation of the water
feemed to prove there was no channel, and was the
certain caufe of fo equal a declivity. We anchored
in the evening of the 26th, on the coaft of Tartary,
and the next day at noon, the fog having difperfed,
I ran tothe N. N. E., towards the middle of the chan-
nel, in order completely to eftablifh this point of ge-
ography, which had coft us fo much labour and fa-
tigue. In this manner we failed, with a perfeét view
of both coafts ; the depth, as I had expected, diminifh-
ed three fathoms every league, and after having ad-
vanced four leagues, we anchored in nine fathoms
over a fandy bottom. The wind had fettled to the
fouthward fo confiantly, that for near a month
they had not varied 20 degrees, and we expofed our-
felves, by thus running before the wind towards the
top of the gulph, to be embayed, and confequent-
ly to be obliged to wait the return of the monfoons
to get out. But this was not the greateft inconveni«
ence we apprehended, The danger of driving from
our anchors with a fea as high as we ever witnefied on
a European coaft when there is no fhelter, was of
much greater importance. Thefe foutherly winds;
whofe fource is in the feas of China, pafs without
interruption to the top of the gulph of Segalien.
They there violently agitate the fea, and blow more
ftedtaftly than the trade winds between the tropics.
We were now fo far advanced that we were defi-
rous of exploring the extremity of this channel ; but
unfortunately the weather had become extremely un-
certain, and the agitation of the fea continually in-
creafed. However we hoifted out our boats to found
around us. M. Boutin had orders to go towards
the S. E., and M, de Vaujuas towards the north,
with an exprefs injunction not to expofe themfelyes to
the
62 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE f1787.
the danger of not returning on board. Thefe orders
could only be confided to officers of the greateft pru<
dence, becaufe the fea growing heavier, and the wind
increafing, might oblige us to get under way for the
fecurity of our fhips. I therefore gave orders to thefe
officers not to rifk, on any account whatever, the fafe-
ty of our fhips by waiting for them, nor their own,
fhould circumftances unavoidably compel us to get
under fail. Che's
My orders were executed with the greateft punc-
tuality. M. Boutin prefently returned, and M. Vau-
juas made a league to the northward, where he found
the.depth of water fix fathoms, and advanced to the
utmoft diftance which the ftate of the fea and the
weather. permitted him to found*. He left us at
fevca, and did not return till midnight. The fea be-
ing then very high, and remembering the misfortune
we had experienced in Port des Frangais, I began to
feel the greateft uneafinefs. But his return feemed
. to compenfate the very bad fituation of our vefels,
and at break of day we were obliged to get under
fail. ‘The fsa was fo heavy that we were four hours
in weighing our anchor: the meffenger and a pur-
chafe fnapped, the capftan was broken, and by this
event three men were badly wounded. We were then
obliged to carry as much fail as the mafts could bear,
though it blew very ftrong. Fortunately fome flight
variation from $. to S. S. W. and S.S. E. favoured
us, and we made five leagues in 24 hours.
On the 28th at night, the fog being difperfed, we
found ourfelves on the coaft of Tartary, at the open-
* It is extremely probable that the {traits of Segalien has been
formerly navigable for fhips, but every thing induces me to think
- thatit will foon be dry, and that ifland become a peninfula. This
change will take place either from the immenfe accumulation pro-
duced by the river Segalien, which through a courfe of 500 leagues
receives other confiderable rivers, or by the fituation of its mouth
almoft at the narroweft point of a long channel: a fituation ex-
tremely favourable to the forming of land.—French Editor.
ing
D D 3 DC EG ES SE M cme
EEE fae eas, png cf ee TE Fr re 5
ETS SE CE TRE TT, SR
1787.
orders
it pru<
> wind
or the
) thefe
e fafe-
Own,
to get
punc-
. Vau-
found
to the
id the
us at
fea be-
ortune
pan to
eemed
reMels,
under
hours
a pur-
ry this
e then
| bear,
flight
roured
d, we
open-
as been
o think
This
on pro-
leagues
; mouth
tion ex-
ing
_1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. :. 63
ing of a bay which appeared to be very deep, and
offered a fate and commodious anchorage. We were
then entirely deftitute of wood, :and had very little
water: I therefore determined to put in, and made
a fignal to the Aftrolabe to go:a-head and found,
We anchored. at the northernmoft point of this bay,
at five in the evening, in eleven fathoms water, over a
muddy bottom. M. de Langle, having immediately
hoifted out his boat, founded this road-ftead himfelf,
and informed me that it offered the beft poffible thel-
ter behind four iflands, which defend it from the
fea breezes. He had landed at a Tartar village, where
he had met with a very good reception ; and had dif-
covered a watering place, where the moft limpid ftream
might fall into our boats; and thefe iflands, from
which the good anchoring place could not be farther
than three cables’ length, were covered with wood.
In confequence of M, de Langle’s report, I gave or-
ders to prepare for going to the'top of the bay at
day-break, and we anchored there at eight in the
morning, in fix fathoms water, over a muddy bot-
tom. I named this bay, Baie de Caftries.
a
64 LA.PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787.
CHAP. XIX.
WE PUT INTO THE BAY OF CASTRIES—DESCRIPTION
OF THAT BAY AND OF A TARTAR VILLAGE=-MANr
NERS AND CUSTOMS. OF THE INHABITANTS--THEIR
RESPECT FOR TOMBS, AND FOR PROPERTY
OUR PERFECT CONFIDENCE IN THEIR PROBITY—=
THEIR PARENTAL AFFECTION TO THEIR CHILDREN
—THEIR STRICT UNION AMONG THEMSELVEs—*
FOUR FOREIGN CANOES SEEN IN THIS BAY——GEO-
GRAPHICAL INFORMATION OBTAINED FROM THEIR
CREWS—PRODUCTIONS OF THE BAY OF CASTRIES
—1T8 QUADRUPEDS, BIRDS, FOSSILS AND PLANTS,
HE impoffibility we difcovercd of failing out to
A the north of the ifland of Segalien, opened to
us a new order of events, and it was now very
doubtful whether we could this year arrive at Kamt-
fchatka.
The Bay of Caftries, where we had juft anchored,
is fituated at the top of a gulph about 200 leagues
diftant from the Strait of Sangaar, which was the
only paffage by which we could be certain of quit-
‘ting the fea of. Japan. The foutherly winds were
more fteady, more conftant, and more obftinate than
in the feas of China, from whence they proceeded,
becaufe, being confined between two lands, their
greateft variation could not exceed two points to the
eaftward or wefiward. When we had a breeze at
all frefh, the fea rofe to an alarming height, very
dangerous to our mafts; and our fhips were not fuf-
ficiently good failers to afford a hope of gaining 200
leagues to windward before the end of the Summer,
in fo narrow a channel, » here the almoft continual
fogs rendered plying to windward extremely diffi-
cult; yet the only alternative that remained was to
attempt
wood
178
atte!
foon
not |
I the
our 3
as pc
fore |
days.
long:
Lang
to ft
boat
jolly-
Belle,
had c
yawls
in fifl
abou:
Lang
‘ration
lifts,
and,
tentio
tain
were
rifton
ments
fhips,
loire.
obfer
the q
activi
cal al
for th
a MOI
Vo
1787.] . ROUND THE WORLD. 65
attempt it, unlefs we waited for the northern mon-
foon, which might be retarded till November. I did
not beftow a moment’s confideration on the latter plan.
I thought, on the contrary, that we ought to redouble
our activity, by endeavouring to fupply as fpeedily
as poflible our want of wood and water, and J there-
fore announced that we fhould not ftay above five
days. As foon as we were moored, the boats and
long-boats, of hoth fhips were appointed by M. de
Langle and myfelf to feparate duties, which were
to fuffer no change during our, ftay. The long-
boat got in our water, the barge our wood, and the
jolly-boats were appropriated to Meffis. Blondela
Bellegarde, Mouton, Bernizet, and Prevoft junior, who
had orders to draw the plan of this bay.. Our fmall
yawls, which drew but little water, were employed
in fifhing for falmon, in a fmall river where they
abounded ; .and, laftly, our Bifcay yawls ferved M. de
Langle and myfelf to fuperintend our different ope-
‘rations, and to convey us, together with: the natura..
lifts, to the Tartar village, to the different iflands,
and, in general, to every object which. required at-
tention, ‘The firft and moft important was to afcer-
tain the rate of our time-kcepers; and our fails
were fcarcely furled, when Meffis. Dagelet, Lau-
rifion, and Darbaud, :had already fet up their inftru- :
ments in an.ifland at a very fmall diftanee from our
fhips, to which I gave the name of {fe de l'Obferva-
loire. It was allo to furnifh our carpenters with
wood, of which we were entirely deftitute, - A gra-
duated rad was fixed inthe water, at the foot of the
obfervatory, to. determine the rife of the tide, and
the quadrant and pendulum. were arranged with an
activity: worthy of a better fuccefs, . Aftronomi-
cal obfervations, were purfued without. interruptien,
for the fhort time I-had annovaced did not admit. of
a moment’s repofe.. The morning and the afternoon
Vox, Il. ASE, were
66 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787.
were émployed on equal altitudes of the fun, and the
night in taking the altitude of the ftars.
The comparifon of the rate of our time-keepers had
already commenced, and No. 19 gave us but little un-
eafinefs, becaufe its refults, compared with thofe of
our lunar obfervations, had always been the fame, or,
at leaft, did not exceed the errors to which thofe in-
ftruments are always liable. Not fo No. 18, which
was on board the Aftrolabe. It had varied in an ir-
régular manner, and M. de Langle, as well as M.
Laurifton, knew not what daily rate to affign it. The
aukwardnefs of a carpenter now deftroyed al our
hopes. He felled a tree near the aftronomical tent,
which broke the glafs of the quadrant, deranged the
pendulum of comparifon,.and almoft annihilated the
labours of the two preceding days. Their refult
fixed the latitude of our anchoring place, in 51°
20’ North, and its longitude 139° 41’ Eaft, ac-
cording to No. 19, allowing for its daily lofs of 12
feconds, as it had been eftablifhed at Cavita. It
was calculated to be high water at the full and
change of the moon at 10 o’clock, its greateft rife
five feet eight inches: and the drift of the current,
lefs than half a mile. Our aftronomers, limited by
this event to mere obfervations of curiofity, accom-
panied us on the two laft days in our various excur-
fions. The bay of Caftries alone, of all thofe we vi-
fited on the coaft of Fartary, deferves that name. It
affords a fecure ‘afylum againft bad weather, and it
would even be poftible to winter there. The bottom is
muddy, and fhoals gradually from 12 fathoms to five
in approaching the fhore, from which’ the breakers
extend to three cables’ length, fo that it is very diffi-
cult. to land, even in a boat, when the tide is low.
Befides this, they have to contend with fea-weeds
re | which there are but two.or three feet of wa-
ter, arid which oppofe an invincible refiftance to the
excrtions of the boats crews. No fea is more fertile in
different
[1787.
, and the
epers had
little un-
h thofe of
: fame, or,
thofe in-
18, which
lin an ir-
ell as M.
mit. The
sd all our
vical tent,
ranged the
ilated the
reir refult
e, in 51°
Eaft, sc-
lofs of 12
Javita. It
e full and
reateft rife
ie current,
limited by
y, accom-
ous excur-
hofe we vi-
name. It
her, and it
é bottom is
oms to five
© breakers”
very diffi-
ide is low.
_fea-weeds
cet of wa-
née to the
re fertile in
different
1787.) ROUND THE WORLD," 67
different fpecies of fuci *, and the vegetation of our
fineft meadows does not exhibit a more beautiful vel. ;
slier verdure. A very great bight on
fends the Tartar village, and which we fuppofed,
1. Satan Se rep to receive our fhips, becaufe it wag
hen we anchored at the. top of the bay,
few hours afterwards a field of. marine
diyaft quantities of falmon from a rivulet
iRerged itfelf es thefe weeds, lea
Wace, and we took above 2000 in a day,
meuitents, whofe moft abundant and moft
Beeitence'thefe fifh fupply, beheld our fuc-
fut uneafinefs, becaufe, no doubt they were
Meier. quantity was inexhauftible. We
their village the day after our arrival
M. de Langle had preceded us, and his
feus afriendly reception. |
ible to find in any part of the world a
yorthier people. ‘Their chief;or oldeft
er with forne of his neighbours, came
thefhore. He faluted us by proftrating
round after the manner of the Chinefe,
onducted us to his hut, where we found
aughters-in-law, and his grand-children.
tan mat to be fpread, on which he in-
and a fmall grain with which we were
‘was prepared for us over the fire in a
-fome falmon. This grain is their.
food. They informed us that it came
Wy of the Mantchous ;: a name they
toa people who dwell feveri oreight
mithem, up the river Segalien, and
@irect communication with the.Chinefe,
led us by figns; that they were of the na-
Orotchys; and fhewing us four ftrange
e plants are exactly the fame as thofe which are
for packing cafes of oil or liqueur, called goémon-
F2 | canoes
LT.
eo NA Vy €
Ÿ.Y qv x
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i
FES th
ii
i
4 |
:
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a i
b ae
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ii cl
hem; and. never found our-confi-
Cy:
Opinio the: did. not even faipeñt- there. cxifled
ach : sim a theft, |.
ch: hut wa ifaeounded by, a. place for drying
hich were expofed, on poles to the beat of
i, after having been {moked two or three. da
he fire in the middle. of their houfes, . The
16h. who were employed in this operation, are
arry them into the ¢ mé airs where they ane
rires of wood, :
nd fifh-gies, and: we faw them with a ifeufitg
y devour the raw -fnont, gills, and fmall bones,
pinetimes the whole fin of the falmon, which
off with great addrefs. They fucked in
ag e of thefe parts as we would fwallow an
eater number of fifh were brought
‘ate, except when the fifhery had been
ay it, on which.occafions we obferved the
with the fame avidity feek out the whole fith,
devoured in Jin equally difgufting manner the
aginous parts; which in, their eyes appeared
othe mof delicious as - dt was in this bay of Caf-
jiries that we learnt the. ons of the thick ring of, lead
or bone, which thefe 5
vear.on their thumb. They ufe it to cut againft,
pping the falmon with. a fharp knife, which each
i — at his waift.
i this fta
‘tothe north, and wMich appeared un-
ble during the winter. But on, the oppofite
© gulp on a more elevated fpot open to
by ‘and near à a was SRG village con-
a. fifling
ted from this bay with an
‘hei Ai tt ftood.on a neck of low and marfhy _
be gs fll of ns oa
neral, all the articles that we
ful, as foon as the fmoke: has penetrated them, -
peoples well as thofe of Sega- in
ROUND THE WORLD. -71
ts of lilly pre which the
| ts of he, woods, and dry
ss de ne nt dose AN dar. 1 4
ye concluded, from, the, number of tombs
or we found them on all the iflands, and on al
their creeks) thas Fostosre genes ES Rene had rayaged
_thefe countries, and. greatly reduced” the number of
. inhabitants; but I am inclined to believe, that the
different families were difperfed in the neighbouring
bays in the fithery and, curing of falmon, and that
they reaflemble in the winter, when they bring in
their provifion of fith for their fubfiftence, till the
return of the fun. Itis in fact a mere probable con-
jeCure, that the religious veneration of thefe people
for the tombs of their anceftors, has preferved and re-
paired them, and retarded perhaps for ages,, the un-
- avoidable and filent decay of time. Though I per-
_ eeived no external difference between the inhabitants; :
. it was not fo with the dead, whofe afhes repofe in more
"or leis magnificence according to their wealth. Itis .
probable, that the labours of a long life are fcarcely~
_fufficient to defray the expence of thefe maufolea,
which have at moft a relative magnificence, and of
which we fhould form a very erroneous idea, if we
compared them to the monuments of civilized nations. |
: The poorer fort are expofed on a bier, placed on a ftage
fupported by fakes four feet high. All have their
bows, their arrows, their nets, and fome pieces of
… cloth round their tombs, and it is probable, -hat to
rob them would be deemed a facrilege,
.. Thefe people, like the inhabitants of Segalien,*
* The ifland of Segalien is among thofe whofe name has been
moft varied by geographers. We find it in ancient maps defignated
* under the following names : Sahalien, Ula-hata, Black River, Sag-
halien, Anga-hata, Amur, Amour, &c.— French Editor.
To thefe we may add the Sagaleen in the chart of Cook’s Voy-
ages. The true appellation feems to be fixed by the obfervation of.
La Péroufe, who mentions that the natives pronounced the name
of their country exactly as the French pronounce Ségalien.
er Tranjflator’s Note.
Fa. fcem
72 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
feem to acknowledge boit
4
dé #0 chief dnd to fubmit to no go-
vémment. :Æ tte
| of their tn anners, and
their refpegh iam. th dient anar-
—
—
ee
es
—
—
feed to obferve
g bent a baw and
_ fhot
MON
WENO
| NW
MT
ATEN AE
t a baw and
~ fhot
1787.) ROUND THF WORLD. ' 73
fhot an arrow with confiderable exaétnefs, and havin
beat a dog, threw himfelf on his mother's breatt, and
took the placc of a child of 5 or 6 months old, who
had fallen afleep on her knee. ,
The fex appcars here to enjoy great confideration ;
they never concluded any bargain with us without
the content of their wives, The filver car-rings and
copper jewels which adorned their drefs, are entirely
referved for women and little girls. 'The men and
little boys are dreffed in jackets of nankeen, dogs-
fkin or fith-fkin in the forth of carters’ frocks. If
thefe extend below the knee they wear no drawers ;
otherwife they have fuch as are ufed by the Chincfe,
and which extend to the calf of their leg. They have
all boots of feal-fkin, which they referve for winter,
and they wear at all times, and at all ages, even at the
breaft, a leather girdle, to which are fufpended a knife
and fheath, a flint-fteel, a little bag for tobacco, and
- a pipe. .
Fe drefs of the women is fomewhat different.
_ They are covered with a large nankeen gown, or one
“Of falmon fkin, which they have the art cf tanning
and rendéring extremely flexible. This drefs extends
to their ancle, and it is fometimes adorned with a
fringe of fmall copper ornaments, which make a noife
like little ‘bells: The falmon, whofe fkin ferves for
their drefs, are not thofe caught in fammer, but fuch
as weigh 30 or 40 pound. Thofe we caught in the
month of July, weighed only 3 or 4 ; but their num-
bers and the delicacy of their tafte compenfated forthis
difadvantage. We were all of opinion we had never
tafted better. We cannot defcribe their religion, not
having perceived either temple or priefts, only per-
haps fome idols of rough {culpture, fufpended from
‘the roof of their cottages. Theft figures reprefented
children, or arms, hands, and legs, refembling the vota
: of many of our country chapels. It is poffible thefe
images, which we may have erroneoufly taken for
‘ idols,
74 LA: PEROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787.
idols, may only ferve as memorials of fome child de-
voured by the ‘bears, or fome hunter whom, thefe
animals may havé wounded. It is not, however,
probable; that a people fo feebly conftituted, fhould
be free from fuperftition.. In fact, we fometimes fuf-
pected they took us for magicians ; for they anfwered
our different queftions with a complaifance, accom-
panied with evident marks of uneafinefs, and when
we traced characters on paper, they appeared to.con-
fider the motion of the hand that wrote as magic
figns, refufing to anfwer our enquiries, becaufe as
they gave us to underftand they confidered it an evil.
It was with the'greateft difficulty and patience. that
M. Lavaux, furgeon-major of the Aftrol:be, could
form the vocabularies of the Orothys and the Bitchys.
Our prefents were not able to overcome their preju-
dice in this refpect, and they even received thefe ‘
with repugnance, and often refufed them with ob-
ftinacy.. I once thought I difcovered that they ex-
pected more delicacy in our manner of offering them.
To difcover whether my fufpicion was founded, I fat
down in one of their habitations drew two children
of three or four years old. towards. me, and having
beftowed on them fome flight carefles, gave them a
piece of rofe-coloured nankeen, which I had brought
in my pocket. I obferved the eyes of the whole fa-
mily exprefs the livelicft fatisfaction, though I am
certain they would have refufed the prefent, had I
offered it directly to them. The, hufband quitted
the houfe and foon returned with his fineft dog,
which he requefted me to accept. I refufed it, en-
deavouring to make him underftand that it would
be more ufeful to him than to me. But he perfifted,
and finding that he did not fucceed, he called the
two children who had received the nankeën, and
laying their little hands on the back of the dog, gave
me to underfiand I muft not refufe them. So deli-
cate a «finement of manners can only exift in a
: people
(+787.
m,,thefe
owever,
, fhould
imes fuf-
anfwered
accom-
nd when
d to.con-
as ‘magic
ecaufe as
tan evil.
ence.. that
e, could
> Bitchys.
ir preju-
ved thefe
they ex-
ing them.
Children
id having
ye them a
1 brought
whole fa-
igh I am
it, had I
d quitted
neit dog,
ed it, a
it would
perfified,
alled the
een, and
dog, gave
So deli-
xift in a
hild de- .
people’
~
a nt
il |
LUTTE |
A
| | |
WHT |
Il |
|
1)
‘
i | " ; |
CANOE of the BITCHYS. ee
Nt
|
(Au
L
4
©
B
9
§
3
|
6
vA
<
ie)
ee 2 ‘They
joined the ifland à
their canoe along the
nd,: that after having
ñ this manner pufhed
which thay, ‘bad aut
the beach fome: of the
fcribed the extremity of
led, they placed'it on the
is marine plant alfo grew on
‘the
76 _ LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787.
the bank they traverféd. This account made upon
othe fpot by travellers who came from the river—an
‘account fo'coincident with the refult of our own: ob-
fervations, fince we had advanced till we had only fix |
fathoms water, left no doubt in our minds.. : To re-
-concile the information: of thefe people: with thofe
of Langle Bay; ‘it fuffices, that at high water there
is, at fome. part of the fand-bank, an opening of
- three or four feet water, a depth more than fuffi-
“cient for their canoes. As this was an interefting |
enquiry, and had never been refolved before, I’went
on fhore next morning, and held a converfation by
figns, of which the refult was precifely the fame, : In
fhort;: M. de Langle and myfelf defired M. Lavaux,
«who had a peculiar fagacity in exprefling and under-
-ftanding foreign languages, to make further refearches.
: He-found the Bitchys invariably uniform in their ac-
~ count; and therefore I announced my intention: of
fending my long-boat to the éxtremity of the guilph,
which could not be above ten or twelve leagues from
‘the bay of Caftries. This plan would have ‘been at-
tended with great inconveniences, for the lcaft:breeze
- from’ the fouth caufes a heavy fea at the extremity
- of that channel, infomuch that an ‘open ‘boat is! in
danger of filling: with water, the waves breaking as
on a bar. Befides this, the perpetual fogs, and the
obftinacy of the fouth wind, would render the time
of the long-boat’s return very uncertain, and we had
not a moment to lofe.. Thus in lieu of fending the .
long-boat to clear up a point of geography, on which
no doubt could remain, I propofed to iredonble our
activity, to quit a gulph in which we had ‘been navi-
gating during three months, had ‘frequently traverfed
in every direction, and conftantly founded, as well
for out own fecurity, as in order to leave ‘nothing
unaccomplifhed that geographers could defire.
The lead alone could be our guide in the midft of
the fogs, which had fo long enveloped.us. Thishow- —
ever
a à OP Oo D ll = NN + et mm tt (D 1
pfearches.
their ac-
pation’ nf
ne gulph,
rues from
‘been at-
aft: breeze
extremity
oat, is'.in
eaking as
and the
the time
d we had
ding the .
on which
double our
den navi-
traverfed
, a8. well
; nothing
fire.
e midft of
Thishow- |
ever
1787]! ROUND) THE WORLD. : 77.
evet did not exhauft our patience, nor did. we omit
. taking the bearing ofa. fingle point-on either coaft..
Only one\interefting point. remained to: be refolved,
that of the fouthern’ extremity of: Segalien Ifland,
which we had only explored as far as Langle Bay, in:
479.49 3 and I confefs I might perhaps have left that:
L- care to others, even-had:it been poffible' to pañs the
ftrait, becaufe the-feafon was advancing,:and I could:
not lofe fight of the extreme difficulty: of recovering
two ‘hundred leagues to windward, in fo narrow a
channel, covered with fog, and:where the foutherly.
winds had néver varied two; points to the eaft or weft.
I. knew indeed by the accounts of the) Kaftricum;;
that the Dutch had found the winds northerly.in the
month of Auguft ; but I'muft obferve, that they na-:
vigated on the eaftern coaft of their pretended Jeflo';
and that we, on the contrary, wereingulphed between
two cohfts, whofe extremity is within the dominion:
| of the monfoons which: prevail on the coafts of Chi-
na-and Corea till the month of ‘Oétober. -
As. it appeared that there exified) no caufe, to,
change the winds from the direction they ‘had re-
ceived on thofe coafts, thefe reflections increafed my:
ardour to depart, and I ultimately fixed 'the 2d-of
Auguft: for: that fep.. Fhe interval was employed
in exploring fome part of the bay,,dnd: the various
iflands by: which it is formed, : Our naturalifts made
excurfions on evéry point .of the coaft which: ap-
peared capable of: fatisfying our curiofity. M. de
Lamanon himfelf, though he had experienced a long
illnefs, from which he ‘had very flowly recovered, de-
termined to:‘accompany us. ‘The lava and other vols
canic fubftances, which he was informed conftituted)
the foil: of thefe-iflands, prevented him from feeling
his indifpofition. He difcovered, together with the.
. Abbé Mongès, and Father Receveur, that moft of. '
the fubftances in the environs of the bay and of the
iflands which form its entrance, wercred lava, (fome.
| : folid,
78 LA-PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
folid, fome porous) grey bafaltes, tabular or in nodules,
and, laftly, trapps, which appeared not to: have been
attacked by the fire, but which had furnifhed the
matter of ‘the lava and bafaltes, that had) been
melted in this furnace. Various cryftallizations were
found among thefe volcanic fubftances, the eru
tion of which appeared very ancient. . They could
not, however, difcover the craters of thefe volca~-
noes. A ftay of feveral weeks would have been ne-
ceffary to have ftudied and purfued the traces that
might have led to them. AU
M. de la Martinière explored, with his ufual ac-
tivity; the beds and courfes of the river; in order to
difcover new: plants on their ‘banks; but he only
found the fame fpecies he:had feen on the ‘bays of
Ternai and Suffren, and that in fmaller quantities,
Vegetation was nearly in the fame ftate as in the en-
virons of Paris in the middle of May. Strawberries
and rafpberries were ftill in bloom; goofeberries
began to redden, and celery and water-creflés were
very fcarce., Our conchologifts were more fortu-
nate. They found extremely fine foliated oyfter-
fhells, of a vinous and black colour, but fo clofely ad-
hering to the rock, that it required great dexterity
to detach them ; and their valves were fo thin, that
it was extremely difficult to preferve them: entire.
We alfo took up, with the:dredge, fome whelks of
a fine colour, fome peélines, fmall mufcles of the
moft ordinary fpecies, and fome varieties of the kima
cockle. re
- Our hunters killed feveral pullets, fome wild ducks,
cormorants, plover, white .and black wagtails, and a
{mall blue fly-catcher, of which we have no defcription
by any ornithologifl. All thefe fpecies of birds are but
thinly fcattered, for in thefe climates, which are al-
moft conftantly frozen, the nature of all animals
appears torpid. The cormorant and the gulls, which
under a more favourable fky flock: together, dwell
here
[1787.
n nodules,
have been
ifhed ‘the
had\ been
tions were
the ad
hey could
efe. volca-
* been ne-
races that
ufual ace
n order to
t he only
e ‘bays of
quantities.
in the en-
rawberries
oofeberries
refles were
ore fortu-
ed oyfter-
clofely ad-
| dexterity
thin, that
em: entire.
:whelks of
les of the
f the kima
vild ducks,
ails, and a
defcription
rds are but
ich are al-
Il animals
ils, which
her, dwell
here
1787:| ROUND THE WORLD. | 79
here in folitude on the fummits of rocks. A deep fet-
tled melancholy feems to prevail both on the beach
and in the woods, which écho but with the croaking
of ravens, and afford refuge to bald’ éagles.and other |
birds of prey. ‘The ‘marten and fahd-marten alone
appear to be in their natural climate. We faw nefts
and flights of them under all the rocks that project
in vaulted majefty over the fea, ‘I believe the bird
moft general throughout the globe is the chimney
or water fwallow, for I have found fome fpecies of
them in every country where T have travelled,
Though I did not dig into the earth, 1 am of opi-
nion that it continues frozen, to ‘a ‘certain ‘depth,
throughout the fummer, becaufe the water we took
in was only a degree and a half above’ the freezing-
point, and that of thé ftreams never above four.
The mercury however was ‘conftantly at fifty-nine de:
grees, even in the open'air: This momentary heat
penetrates but a little way, it only quickens vegeta-
tion, whofe reign begins and ‘ends in the ‘fhort {pace
of three months, and infinitely multiplies gnats, muf-
kitoes, and other troublefome infects. eee
No kind of plants are cultivated by the ‘ natives:
| _ They feem, however, very fond of vegetable fub-
ftances, The grain of the Mantchous, which may
perhaps be a fmall fhelled millet, was their greateft
luxury. They gather with great care fome fponta-
neous roots, which they dry for their winter provi-
fion; among others the yellow lilly, or faranna,
which is, in faét, a fpecies of onion. Poffeffing a
very inferior conftitution, and far lefs induftry than
the inhabitants of Segalien, they are not, like them,
accuftomed to the ufe of the fhuttle, and are only
dreffed with the moft ordinary of the Chinefe ma-
nufactures, or the exuviæ of fome terreftrial ani-
mals and feals, We killed one of the latter, by
friking him with a ftick. Our gardener, M. Colig-
non, found it fleeping on the beach, and it was in no
refpeét
80 LA PBROUSE’S VOYAGE (1786,
refpoct different from thofe.of Labrador and Hudfon's
Bay. : This.incident was followed by.an unfortunate
event... À, torrent. of rain, having furprized, bim in
the .wood,. where: he was fowing European Brain, he
began. to light,a;fire; but imprudently making ule
of gunpowder for that purpofe, which communicat-
ing with a) powder. flafk in his-hand, the explofion
broke the. bone.ofthis thumb, and he was fo fevereiy
wounded, that: he owed. the prefervation of his arm
to the fkill..of: M. Rollin, :our furgeon-major, I
fhall take this opportunity to fay, that M. Rollin,
while he divided, his care, among all the; crew, ‘paid
articular attention.to thofe who feemed to enjoy the
fet health, He. had obferved fymptoms of {curvy
in feveral, announced by fwellings intheir gums and
legs: . This diforder broke out:on. fhore, and would
have yielded, to a:ftay of fix weeks; but we could
not fpare that time at the bay of Caftries. .We flat
tered. ourfelves, however, that fweet-wort.. fpruce,
and an infufion of Peruvian bark. in the water, drank
by the crew, would difpel thefe flight fymptoms, and
thus enable us to wait an opportunity when we might
remain.a longer time in port. 2.) 1,1,
(1786,
ludion's
ortunate
d, him in
pra he
king ute
nunicat-
xplofion
fevereiy
his arm
najor, I
. Rollin,
ew, paid
enjoy the
of fcurvy
rums and
ad would
we could
We flat-
» Spruce,
er, drank
oms, and
we might
\
r Le «5
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD.
CHAP. XX. |
DEPARTURE FROM THE BAY OF CASTRIES—DISCOVERY
OF THE STRAIT WHICH SEPARATES JESSO AND
OKU-JESSO*—-WE PUT INTO THE BAY OF CRIL-
LON, OFF THE POINT OF THE ISLAND OF TCHOKA
OR SEGALIEN-—DESCRIPTION OF THE INHABITANTS
AND THEIR VILLAGE—WE CROSS THE STRAIT AND
RECOGNIZE ALL THE LANDS DISCOVERED BY THE
DUTCH ON BOARD THR KASTRICUM STATEN
ISLAND—VRIESS STRAIT—COMPANY'S LAND—
ISLAND OF THE FOUR BROTHERS—ISLAND OF MA-
REKA—WE PASS BETWEEN THE KURILES, AND
SHAPE OUR COURSE FOR KAMTSCHATKA.
N the fecond of Auguft, as I had before an-
O nounced, we fet fail with a light breeze from
"thé weft, which only prevailed at the top of the
bay: The fouth winds met us at a league off fhore,
from the point of Cloftercam. They were at firft
very moderate, and attended with clear weather.
We plied to windward with confiderable fuccefs,
making. very favourable boards. I endeavoured, in
particular, to reconnoitre the fmall part of the coaft
of Tartary, of which we had loft fight, from the
Agth degree to the 50th, in confequence of having
* The charts of hydrographers preferve the names of almoft all
the ancient navigators applied to fome of their difcoveries. Thefe
names, which their modefty would have rejeéted, were doubtlefs
pre upon them by the folicitations of their crews or officers.
ut La Péroufe, ftill more modeft, refufed to accede to this cuftom.
His name, too intimately united with the terreftrial globe by his
difcoveries and misfortunes, is not in danger of falling into obli-
vion. But Leing obliged, in order to avoid miftakes, to change
the name of the ftrait he difcovered between Jeflo and Oku-Jeffo,
D. I thought it impoffible to replace it in a manner more confortnable
to the national opinion, than by naming it Ze frais of La Péroufe.
— French Eaitor,
Vou. IL G _ failed
‘82 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787.
failed very clofe to the Ifland of Segalien. On my
return, therefore, I ranged along the coaft of the
continent to the point of our laft bearings, in fight
of Peak Lamanon. On the 6th, the weather, which
had till then been very fine, became extremely
bad. We encountered a gale of wind from the
fouth, Iefs alarming on account of its own violence
than of the very rough fea it occafioned. We were
obliged to carry all the fail our veffels could bear,
in order, as much as poffible, to avoid falling to lee-
ward ; and that we might not lofe, in one day, what
we had been three days in gaining. The Cane.
ter funk to 27 inches 5 lines, and the rain, the fog,
the wind, our fituation in a channel whofe limits
were concealed in fog; every thing contributed to
render our fituation at leaft extremely fatiguing.
Yet thefe fqualls, at which we murmured, were the
harbingers of northerly winds, on which we had not
reckoned. They began to blow on the 8th, after a
‘ ftorm, and enabled us, on the night of the gth, to
et into the latitude of Langle Bay, which we had
eft on the fourteenth of July. After the accident
that had happened to our afironomical tent, in the
. Bay of Caftries, it was of great importance again to
find this point, of which the longitude had been per-
feétly well determined in our firft pañäge, It would
ferve to afcertain the regularity of our time-kcepers,
by comparing, with the known longitude of Langle
Bay, that which would be given by our time-keepers
for the fame point. The refult of our obfervations
was, that after 27 days, No. 19 placed us 34 minutes
of a degree too much to the eaftward. This error
equally divided between the 27 days, would give an
increafc of 5" in the daily lofs of the time-keepers,
which, at Cavita, was but 12” per day. But M.
Dagelet, who very frequently compared the refults
of our lunar obfervations with thofe given by No. 19,
had remarked the period when that time-keeper ia
| varic
[1787.
On m
ft of the
A in fight
er, which
extremely
from the
, violence
We were
ould bear,
ng to lee-
day, what
e barome-
1, the fog,
10fe limits
ributed to
fatiguing.
, were the
we had not
3th, after a
the oth, to
ich we had
e accident
ent, in the
ce again to
d been per-
It would
me-kcepers,
e of Langle
ime-keepers
bfervations
34 minutcs
This error
puld give an
me-keepers,
r, But M.
i the refults
by No. 19,
p-keeper had
varicd
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 83
varied from the daily rate it went at during our ftay at
Cavita: and as he was confident thefe refults would
agree, if we fuppofed a lofs of 20" per day, inftead
of that of 12", obferved at Cavita, he thought he
ought to eftablith. that rate for the calculations 'by
the time-kecper No. 19, during the’27 days elapfed
between our departure from Langle Bay, and our
return within fight of the fame point. We have,
therefore, reafon to think that all the weftern part of
the Ifland of Segalien, as well as the eaft coaft of Tar-
tary, which form the two fides of the channel, will
be laid down in our chart, with a degree of accuracy
that wilt not leave. an uncertainty of a quarter of a
degree in their fituation.
A bank, on which the foundings are extremely
regular, and where there is no danger, extends 10
leagues N. and 8. oppofite to Langle Bay, and rans
out about 8 leagues to the weftward. We paffed it
in running to the fouthward, and I lay to from 10
o'clock at night till day break, in order not to leave
the fmalleft inlet without being reconnoitered. The
next day we continued ranging along the coaft, at
two leagues diftance, and perceived, bearing S. W.
a {mall flat ifland, forming, with that of Segalien, a
channel about fix leagues wide. I gave it the name
of Ife Monneron, from the officer of engineers em-
ployed in this expedition. We directed our courfe
between thefe iflands, where we never found lefs
than 50 fathoms water. We foon got fight of a
peak, whofe height was at leaft 1000 or 1200 toifes,
which feemed to confift entirely of bare rock, and
to preferve the fnow in its hollows. We percciv-
ed neither trees nor verdure on it. I gave it the
nameof Pic de Langle*. At the fame time, we faw
“other
* This peak is in 40 deg, 15 min. N. lat. Capt. Vries, who
commanded the Kattricum, on making the land of Jeffo, in the
| month of June, 1633, alfo difcovered a remarkable peak in 44 deg.
G 2 59
84 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE (1787.
other lands lefs elevated. The Coaft of Segalien
terminated in a point, and we perceived no longer a
double range of mountains; for -every thing an-
nounced that we were almoft at its fouthern extre-
mity, and that the lands to which the peak belonged
‘were upon another ifland. We anchored at night
with this hope, which became next day a certainty,
when a calm obliged us again to anchor off the
fouth point of the Ifland of Segalien. This point,
which I named Cape Crillon, is fituated in 45° 57’ N.
fat. and 140° 34’ E. long. It terminates this ifland,
which is one of the moft extenfive, from north to
fouth, on the globe; and is feparted from Tartary
by achannel, ending in fand banks to the north-
ward, between which there is no paffage for fhips,
although there is probably fome channel for canoes,
through the fea-weeds that obftruct the ftrait. This
fame ifland is Oku-Jeffo*: whereas the ifland of 7
- «Chicha, which was abreaft of us, and which is fe- 7
parated from that of Segalien by a channel 12 leagues
wide, and from Japan by the ftrait of Sangaar, is
the Jeflo of the Japanefe, and extends to the |)
fouthward as far asthe ftrait of Sangaar.. The chain 7
of the Kurile Iflands is much further to the eaftward, !
and forms, together with Jeffo and Oku-Jeffo, an- |
other fea, communicating with that of Okhotik,
and from whence there is no paflage to arrive on the À
Coaft of Tartary, but by traverfing either the firait À
we-had juft difcovered, in 45° 40’, or that of San- #
gaar, after having failed out from between the ||
Fn shins N lat. which, be called Anthony's Peak. Thefe peaks, 4
tuated to the fouthward of the ftrait of La Péroufe, will render #2
‘At extremely-eafÿ to recognize. It is, however, probable that the
Jand laid down in the maps; under the name of feflo, is an affem. M
blagetof feveral iflands.— French Editor. 1%
. # Oku-Jeffo fignifies Upper Jeffo, or North Jeffo. The Chi- 4
nefe call it Za-ban.—French Editor. #
Kuriles. 3
(1787.
” Segalien
> longer a
thing an-
rn. extre-
. belonged
1 at night
certainty,
r off the
his point,
450 57’ N.
this ifland,
n north to
m Tartary
the north-
e for fhips,
for canoes,
trait. This
e ifland of
thich is fe-
12 leagues
Sangaar, is
ids to the
The chain
Le eaftward,
-Jéflo, an-
F Okhotfk,
rive on the
er the ftrait
hat of San-
etween the
Thefe peaks,
fe, will render
obable that the a
lo, is an affem-
flo. The Chi-
_Kuriles.
1787.) ROUND THE WORLD. 85
Kuriles, This point of geography, the moft impor-
tant that modern navigators had left to be deter-
mined by their fucceflors”, coft us may fatigues,
an
* An impenetrable darknefs has till now enveloped the
parts of the globe called Jeff and Oku-Jeffo, concerning whofe
fition the opinions of geographers had been fo various, that it
was doubtful whether their exiftence was not chimerical. In fact,
if we confult the maps of Afia of the following g phers, we
fhall fee, that in 1650, Sanfon reprefents Corea as an ifland, while
Teflo, Oku-Jeffo, and Kamtfchatka, have no place, and the ftrait of
Anian is laid down feparating Afia from North America.
In 1700, William de Lifle joined Jeffo to Oku- Jeffo, and extend-
ed them as far as the ftrait of Sangaar, under the name of Jeffo
land,
Danville, in 1732, publifhed a map of this part of Afia much
nearer the truth than that which he produced twenty years after-
wards, in which the gulf and cape of Aniva form part of the con-
tinent, and Cape Patience is the fouthernmoft point of the ifland of
Segalien. Thefe charts and fome of the following have fallen into
the fame error, with ag to the bay of Teffoy.
Defnos, like Danville, has retarded the fcience of #4 hy,
by his map of 1770, which is much inferior to that publi by
him in 1761.
In 1744, Hafius made Jefo, Cape Aniva, and Cape Patience,
form a peninfula adjoining Tartary, from which it was partly fe-
pie by a guif, the entrance into which was through the ftrait of
effoy.
A ore of Afia, without. date or author’s name, but which muft
have been printed fince the voyage of the Kaftricum, reprefents the
two Jeffoes as two iflands, independently of the ifland of Segalien.
The intermediate Jeffo feen by the Dutch, comprehends the gulf
and Cape Aniva, but we muft remark, that the fecond Jeffo is fe-
parated from Segalien by a ftrait laid down in 44 deg., which
proves; that they already conjectured the exiftence of the ftrait dif-
covered by La Péroufe, fufpected by Father du Halde, and adopt-
ed, though afterwards rejected, by Danville.
Robert, in 1767, Robert de Vaugondy, in 1775, Brion, in 1784,
and William de Lifle jointly with Philip Buache, in 1788, have fuc-
ceffively copied and perpetuated the fame errors.
_ In fhort, we cannot better depi& the chaos of our ideas concern-
ing this part of the globe, of which our ancient knowledge has been
fo learnedly difcufled and compared by Philip Buache, than by
the following extraét from Confiderations Géogra Siow, page 115.
“ Jeffo, after having been tranfported to the eait, attached to
“the fouth, and then to the weit, was at laft removed to the
*¢ north,”
G3 My
86 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
and required great caution, becaufe the fogs render
navigation in thefe feas extremely difficult. Since the
10th of April, when we had departed from Manilla,
till the day when we paffed the ftrait, we only put in
for three days into the Bay of Vernai, one into Langle
Bay, and five into the Bay of Caftries, for I do not
include our anchoring on the open coaft, although
we might fend to reconnoitre the land, and at thefe
anchorages procured fome fifh. It was at Cape
Crillon that we received the firft vifit from the
iflanders, for they had received ours without fhow-
ing the fmalleft curiofity or defire to fee our veflels.
At firft they fhowed fome diftrufi, and would not
approach till we had pronounced feveral. words of
the vocabulary which M. Lavaux had made at Lan-
gle Bay. If their fear was at firft confiderable, their
confidence now became extreme. They came on
board our fhips, as if we had been their dearcft
friends, fat in a circle on the quarter-deck and fmoked
their pipes. We loaded them with prefents, giving
them nankeens, filks, utenfils of iron, beads, tobacco,
and in general whatever I thought would be agrce-
able to them. I foon perceived that brandy and
tobacco were the articles they prized the moft, yct
thefe I was moft careful to diftribute fparingly, be-
caufe the latter was neceflary for our crew, and I
fcared the confequences of the former. We remark-
ed that in the Bay of Crillon the countenances of
the inhabitants were more particularly beautiful, and
of a very regular proportion. They were firong
made, and had the appearance of great vigour.
Their beards hung upon their breaft, and their arms,
My only intention, in thefe comparifons, is to eftablifh by in-
conteftible proof, that the geography of the eaftern part of Afia
was in its infancy in 1788, an era fubfequent to the departure ol
our unfortunate navigator, and that we are indebted to his perfe-
verance, zeal, and courage, for the knowledge which has at length
cleared up our doubts—French Editor, ;
neck,
[1787.
Since the
Manilla,
pnly put in
nto Langle
br I do not
, although
d at thefe
s at Cape
from the
hout fhow-
our veflels.
would not
nl. words of
ide at Lan-
rable, their
y came on
igir dearcft
nd fmoked
nts, giving
ds, tobacco,
| be agree-
brandy and
e moft, yet
ingly, be-
crew, and E
Ve remark-
tenances of
autiful, and
vere firong
cat vigour.
their arms,
ftablifh by in-
1 part of Afia
e departure of
d to his perfe-
has at length
neck,
ogs render
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 87
neck, and back, were covered with hair. I make
this obfervation merely becaufe it is a general cha-
racteriftic, for it is eafy to find individuals equally hairy
in Europe. 1 think their middle ftature about an
inch lefs than that of the French, but this is difficult
to difcover, on account of their juft proportion, and
their ftrongly marked mufcles, which made them ap-
pear in general fine figures. ‘Their fkin is as dark
.coloured as that of the Algerines, and other nations
of the coaft of Barbary. |
Their manners are ferious, and their thanks were
expretied by noble geftures; but their requefts for
more prefents were repeated, even to inportunity.
Their gratitude, however, did not extend fo far as to
offer us even a falmon in their turn, although their
canoes were full, and they returned with a part, be-
caufe we refufed paying the exorbitant price they de-
manded; yet they had accepted gratuitoufly our
cloths, ftuffs, iron utenfils, beads, &c. for the joy of
having difcovered another ftrait befides that of San-
gaar had rendered us generous.
We could not but remark how much the gratitude
of thefe Iflanders differed from that of the Orotchys
of the bay of Caftries, who, far from atking for pre-
tents, often obftinately refufed them; and were ex-
tremely urgent that we would permit them to return
the obligation. If, however, their moral principles
are inferior to thofe of the Tartars of that country,
they have a decided fuperiority by their induftry and
phyfical powers.
All the clothes of thefe Iflanders are wove by their
own hands, and their houfes prefent a degree of neat-
nefs and elegance to which thofe of the continent do
not approach. ‘heir furniture is made with fkill,
and almoft entirely of Japanefe manufacture. They
have one article of trade extremely important, and
unknown in the channel of Tartary, and the barter
of which procures them all their riches, I mean whale
G4 oil.
88. LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787
oil. Though they make a confiderable quantity ; their
mode of extracting it is by no means the moft œco- |
nomical. They cut the flefh of the whale in pieces,
and leave it to rot on a declivity expofed to the fun.
The oil that rups from it is received in veffels made
of the bark of trees, or of feal fkin. It is to be re-
marked, however, that we did not fee a fingle whale to
the weftward of the ifland, and that they abound on
its eaftern coaft. We cannot doubt that thefe Iflan-
ders are a different race of men from thofe we had
obferved on the continent, although they are fepa-
rated from it by a channel, not more than three or
four leagues acrofs, and obftructed by fand-banks and
fea-weed ; yet they purfue the fame mode of life,
and hunting and fifhing (particularly the latter) fur-
nifh the greater part of their fubfiftence. They leave
the moft fertile lands uncultivated, and they feem, in
both countries, to have neglected the care of flocks,
which they might have brought from the upper part
of the “Segalien, or from Japan. Thus fimilar food
appears to have formed very different conftitutions.
The cold of the iflands is indeed much lefs rigorous
in the fame latitude than that of the continent; but
this caufe alone cannot have produced fo remarkable
a difference. I am of opinion, therefore, that the
Bitchys, the Orotchys, and the other Tartars of the
coaft, as far as the neighbourhood of the northern
coaft of Segalien, have a common origin with the
Kamtfchadales and Koriacs; and that this race of
men, like the Laplanders and Samoiedes, are to the
human fpecies what their ftunted birches and _ firs
are to the foreft trees of the more fouthern climates.
The inhabitants of the iflands of Segalien are, on the
contrary, a very fuperior race to the Japanefe, Chi-
nefe, and Mantchou Tartars; and their countenance
more regular and more fimilar to thofe of Europeans.
But it is extremely difficult to decypher the archives of
_ the world, fo as to difcover the origin of nations, and
| ss travellers
[1787
ty ; their
oft œco-
n pièces,
the fun.
els made
o be re-
whale to
ound on
fe Iflan-
we had
are fepa-
three or
anks and
: of life,
ter) fur-
hey leave
feem, in
f flocks,
pper part
ilar food
titutions.
rigorous
ent; but
markable
that the
ars of the
northern
vith the
s race of
re to the
and firs
climates.
e, on the
efe, Chi-
ntenance
ropeans.
‘chives of
ions, and
travellers
1787.| ROUND THE WORLD. 89
travellers muft leave it to their readers to draw infer-
ences from their narratives.
‘Our firft enquiries regarded the geography of the
- jfland, part of which was already betttr known to us
than toits inhabitants. ‘They feemed to be in theha-
bit of delineating countries, for, with a fingle ftroke,
they defcribed the part we had juft explored, as far
as the Segalien, leaving a narrow paflage for their
canoes: and they marked each night’s refting place,
and gave it aname. In fhort, we cannot doubt that
although at a diftance of above 150 leagues from the
mouth of that river, they are all perfectly acquainted
with it. Without this river, which forms a commu-
nication with: the Mantchou Tartars who trade with
China, the Bitchys, the Orotchys, and the Segaliens,
and, in general, all the inhabitants of thefe maritime
countries, would know as little of the Chinefe and
their merchandize, as the inhabitants of America.
Their knowledge was however deficient when they
delineated the eaftern coaft of the ifland ; for they
drew it on the fame line north and fouth, and feemed
ignorant that it lay in a diffcrent direétion. Thus
we were left in doubt, and imagined, for a moment,
that Cape Crillon concealed from us a deep gulf, after .
which the coaft would again trend to the fouthward.
This opinion, however, was fcarcely probable. The
ftrength of the current from the ealtward announced
an opening ; but as we were in a dead calm, and pru-
dence did not admit of our fuffering the current to
carry us to leeward too near the cape, M. de Langle
and myfelf thought it neceflary to fend a boat on
fhore under the command of M. de Vaujuas, to whom
we gave orders to afcend the fummit of Cape Crillon, :
and thence to take the-bearings of all the lands he
fhould perceive beyond it. This officer returning be-
fore night, his account confirmed our firft opinion, and
_ We were convinced that we could not be too circum-
fpect, or too much on our guard againft miftakes,
when
00 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE
when we withed to defcribe an extenfiver¢
from data fo vague and fo fubje& todhifion
we had been able to procure. Thefe
their navigatic®, to pay no refpect |
direction. A cove three or four!
canoe, appeared to them an extént
fathom of water an almoft immegfuräl
thcir fcale of comparifon is their ‘cand
but a few inches of water, and is but twa
M. de Vaujuas paid a vifity: -before
the village on the point, whére hes
received, having made fome exchar
bronght “bask fome. falmon. He fi
better built, and more richly füurnifh
d'Efaing Bay ; ; and the infide of feverak
large varnifhed Japan vafes. As the i
lien is only feparated from that ef Ch
12 leagues wide, it is eafier for the tit
part of its coaft to procure their mt
Japan, than for their countrymen moi
ward. But the latter are nearer to the:
and the Mantchou Tartars, to whom the
whale oil, which is the bafis of their comm
The Iflanders who vifited us, retired bé
and gave us to underftand, by figns, that they.
return the next day. They came on “hi
day- break with fome falmon, which ther
for hatchets and knives. They alfo fo,
and a cloth drefs of their country, and f
afflicted when they faw us pr epare to:
were very urgent that we fhouid double Cape:
and put into a creck which they delineated, à
cd Tabouoro. This was the gulf of Aniva,,
A light breeze fpringing up from the N. EB
the fignal to get under way, and fhaped tay
firtt to the S. E.; to give a good. birth 4
lon, which is keithiniatad by an iflety sock,
which the tide fet with the he 4 frat
|
|
|
|
|
i]
:
|
|
|
3
a
Wi
lil |
1787.]J | ROUND THE WORLD. gt
foon as we had doubled it, we perceived, from the
inaft-head, a fecond rock, which appeared four leagues
from the point towards the 8. E. I named it Za
Dangereufe, becaufe it lies even with the furface of
the fea, and may, perhaps, be covered at high water.
I fteered to leeward of this rock, and pafied round it
at the diftance of a league. The fea broke very
much upon it, but I was unable to difcover whether
this was the effect of the tide, or of the fhoals that
furrouna it. |
At this diftance the depth of water was conftantly
23 fathoms, and encreafed when we had doubled it.
We then foon came into 50 fathoms water, and the
current appeared to be moderate. We had hitherto
crofied in this channel, tide-ways fironger than thofe
of du Four, or du Raz of Breft. We only found
them, however, on the coaft of Segalien, or on the
northern fide of this ftrait. (The fouthern coaft, to-
wards the ifland of Chicha, is much lefs expofed to
them. But we were buffeted about by a fwell from
the offing, or from the eaftward, which put us in the
greatc{t danger, throughout the night, of running foul
of the Aftrolabe, as a dead calin prevailed, and nei-
ther of our fhips had fteerage way. We found our-
felves the next day a little to the fouthward of our
reckoning, though not more than ten miles to the
northward of the village of Acqueis, fo named in
the voyage of the Kaftricum. We had juft traverfed
he ftrait which feparates Jeffo from Oku-Jeflo, and
were very near the anchoring-place of the Dutch at
Acqucis. That firait had, doubtlefs, been concealed
from them by fogs; and it is highly probable, that
fummits of mountains on each of the iflands, had led’
them to believe they were joined together by low-
lands; and, in confequence of this opinion, they
have laid down acontinuation of coaft in the very {pot
where we paffed. With the exception of this error, °
their journals are nearly accurate. We fet Cape
: | Aniva
[2
92 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
Aniva nearly in the fame point of the compafs laid
down in the Dutch maps, and perceived alfo the gulf
to which the Kaftricum gave the fame name of Aniva,
It is formed by-the cape of that name, and Cape Cril-
lon. The latitude of thefe capes only differ ten or
twelve minutes, and their longitude, after paffing
Cape Nabo, lefs than a degree from thofe we had
determined : a precifion which, confidering the time
when the expedition of the Kaftricum took. place, is
truly aftonifhing. I formed a refolution not to alter
any of the names given by the Dutch, whenever a fimi-
litude in their relations has made ine recognize them.
But it is very fingular that the Dutch, when fteering
from Acqueis for the gulf of Aniva, paffed before the
mouth of the ftrait we had difcovered, without ima-
gining, when they had anchored at Aniva, that they
were upon another ifland ; fo fimilar are the external
appearances, manners, and mode of life, of thefe two
nations. | |
Though the weather was very fine the next day,
we made but little way to the eaftward. We faw
Cape Aniva bearing N. W., and perceived the eaftern
coaft, which recedes again to the northward, towards
Cape Patience, in the latitude of 49°. This point
was the utmoft limit of the navigation of Captain
Vries: and as his longitudes from Cape Nabo are
nearly accurate, the Dutch chart, of which we veri-
fied a fufficient number of points to eftablifh its claim
to our confidence, gave us the breadth of the ifland
of Segalien as far as the 4gth degree. The weathér
continued fine, but the E. S.:E. winds, which had
conftantly prevailed during four days, retarded our
advancing towards the Staten Ifland and Company’s
land. Our latitude on the 15th was, by obfervation,
469 9’ N., and our long. 142° 57’ E. We did not
ffien fee any land, and we endeavoured repeatedly,
though in vain, to. firike ground with a line of 200
fathoms, a
in
*
[1787.
_. laid
the gulf
| nd
pe Cril-
r ten or
paffing
we had
he time
place, is
to alter
ra fimi-
ze them.
fteering
efore the
ut ima-
hat they
external
hefe two
ext day,
We faw
e eaftern
, towards
his point
: Captain
Nabo are
we veri-
1 its claim
he ifland
> weathér
hich had
rded our
‘ompany’s
fervation,
‘e did not
epcatcdly,
1e of 200
© On
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 93
On the 16th and-17th the fky was overcaft and
watery, and the fun invifible. The wind came round
to the eaftward, and I tacked to the fouthward, in
order to appteach Staten Ifland, of which we had a
perfect view. On the 19th we obferved Cape Troun
bearing fouth, and Cape Vries S. E. by E., the very
points on which they ought to bear of us, according
to the Dutéh*chart Modern navigators could not
have determined their pofition with greater accuracy.
On the 20th me faw Company's Land, and dif-
tinguithed the Strait of Vries, which, however, was
very foggy. ‘We ranged ‘the northern coaft of the
Company's Laril,\at*the diftance of 3 or 4 leagues.
It is barren and deftitute of trees or verdure, and
appeared uninhabited and uninhabitable. We re-
marked the white fpots, mentioned by the Dutch,
and took them at firft:for fnow ; but, on a more at-
tentive examination, we perceived in the rocks large
clefts of the-colour'of plafier. At 6 in the evening
we were a-breaft of-the N. E. point of this ifland,
which terminates in avery fteep cape; I named it
Cape Kaftrigum, from the veffel to which we owe its
difcovery. We petceivedbeyond it a little ifland,
and to the north a:ivide channel, apparently open to
the E.N. E. and féparatingithe Kurile Iflands from
Company's Land, wwhofe.name-ought to be religioufly
preferved tot, and to:prevaib over thofe it may have
received from the Ruffians, more than a century
after the voyage of Capt:-Vries.
The 21ft, 22d, and 23d, were fo foggy, that. it
was impoffible to continue our courfe to the eaft-
ward, a-breaft: of the Kuriles, which we fhould not
have beeñ able to:perceive at two cables’ length.
We therefore continued ftanding off and on at the
mouth of the firait, where the fea appeared to be dif-
turbed by no current. Yet our obfervations of lon-
gitude on the 23d apprifed us, that we had been
drifted 40:miles to. the weflward in two days. We
verified
Qt LA PÉROUSE'S YorAGn. [1787.
verified this obfervation on the 24th, by fetting the
fame points we had feen on the 21ft, precifely where
they ought to bear of us according to our longitude
by obfervation. The weather, although very foggy,
had allowed us to ftand on during a part of the day, as
it frequently cleared up; and we perceived and fet
the northernmoft of the iflands of the Four Brothers,
and two points of Mareckan Ifland, which we took
for two diflinét iflands. The fouthernmoft of thefe
bore Eaft 15° South. We had now advanced only
A leagues to the N. E. in 3 days, and the fogs hav-
ing become much thicker and continued without
intermiffion during the 24th, 25th, and 26th, we
were obliget to ftand off and on between thefe
iflands, of which we knew neither the extent nor
direétion ; not having, as on the coafts of ‘Tartary
and Oku-Jetio, the refource of founding, in order to
know how near we were to the land, becaufe here
we could not find bottom. This fituation, one of
the moft fatiguing and tirefome of the whole voyage,
continued till the 29th, when we had a clear interval,
and perceiving the fummits of mountains in the eaft
I food on to approach them. The low lands now
began to appear, and we diftinguifhed the ifland
of Mareckan, which I confider as the firft of the
fouthern Kurile iflands, in extent from N. E.toS. W.
about twelve leagues.. A high hill terminates each
extremity, and a peak, or rather to judge by its form,
a volcano, rifes in the middle. As I had an intention
of failing out from the Kuriles, by the channel which
I fuppofed to lie to the north of Mareckan ; I fhaped
my courfe to approach the N. E. point of this ifland.
I then perceived two others to the E. N. E. but more
diftant, and appearing to’ leave between them and
the former, a channel of 4 or 5 leagues. But at 8
in the evening, the wind came round to the north
and died away, and there being a great fwell, I was
obliged to put about, and ftand to the weftward, in
order
[1787.
ting the
ly where
ngitude
y 10887;
e day, as
and fet
Brothers,
we took
of thefe
ced only
fogs hav-
without
26th, we
en thefe
xtent nor
F 'artary
y order to
aufe here
1, one of
e voyage,
r interval,
1 the eaft
ands now
the ifland
rft of the
. 108. W.
yates each
y its form,
intention
nel which
; I fhaped
his ifland.
. but more
them and
But at 8
the north
vell, I was
eftward, in
order
LA
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD, 05
order to gain an offing: for the fea was fetting us
in fhore, and we had not ftruck ground a league
from the land, with a line of 200 fathoms. Thefe
northerly winds determined me to fail out by the
channel, to the fouthward of the ifland of Mareckan,
and to the northward of the Four Brothers, It had
appeared wide, and its direction was to the fouth-
ward, nearly parallel to the channel of Vries, which
put me out of my courfe. But the winds left me no
other alternative, and clear days were fo rare, that I
thought it my duty to take advantage of the only
one we had experienced for 10 days paft.
We crowded fail during the night, in order to ar-
rive at the entrance of this channel, but had very lit-
tle wind, and the fea was very heavy. When day re-
turned we fet, bearing S. E. diftant about two Icagues,
the S. W. point of Mareckan, which I named Cape
Rollin, from our furgeon-major ; and we were quite
becalmed, without even the refource of anchoring,
fhould we be drifted in fhore, for we could not firike
bottom. Fortunately the current carried us percep-
tibly into the middle of the channel, and. we ad
vanced about five leagues to the S.S.E. though
without wind enough to fteer. We now perccived
bearing S. E. the Four Brothers ; and as very good
obfervations of longitude permitted us to determine
their pofition, as well as that of Cape Rollin, in the
ifland of Mareckan, we were convinced that the
width of the channel was about fifteen leagues. The
night was very fine, the wind fettled at E. N. E. and
we entered the channel by moon light. I named it
the Canal de la Bouffole ; and I think it the fineft of
all the channels which feparate the Kuriles from each
other. We were very fortunate in feizing this inter-
val, for the weather was overcaft at midnight, and
the thickeft fog covered us at day-break, before we
Were certain of having entirely cleared the channel.
I continued ftanding to the fouthward in the midft
of
ns EEE CE © = era rame —_ =
.
|
t
imi)
1 |
|| |
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| |
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Î i
hl
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it |
| (
Lj |!
tt LE
|
Hl
2
}
i
ie
|
}
|
‘
eR SS EEE
06 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
of thefe fogs, with the intention of approaching the
iflands to the northward, with the firft clear inter-
val, and if poffible to explore them as far as Point
Lopatka ; but the fogs were more conftant here than
on the coaft of Tartary. During ten days we had
only twenty-four hours clear weather, and moft of
that time it was a dead calm ; fo that we were happy
ta take advantage of the half of a fine night to get
out into an open fea.
At fix in the evening I tacked to the northward
towards the land, from which I fuppofed we were
about twelve leagues diftant. The fog ftill conti-
nued equally thick. ‘Towards midnight the wind
came round to the weftward, and I fteered to the
eaftward, waiting for day-light, again to get near the
coaft. The day appeared without diffipating the fog,
though the fun however pierced it twice during the
morning; and extending our horizon for only a
few minutes:to one or two leagues, we feized the
opportunity to take the altitude of the fun, in order
to know the true time, and thence deduce the lon-
gitude. Thefe obfervations left us in fome incerti-
tude, becaufe the horizon was not clearly defined.
They apprized us, however, that we had drifted about
ten leagues to the S. E. which coincided with the
refults of the different bearings we had taken the
preceding evening during the calm. The fog re-
turned with obftinacy, and was cqually thick the
next day. I therefore determined, as the feafon
was .advancing, to abandon my intention of explor-
ing the northern Kuriles, and to fhape my courfe
for Kamtfchatka. We had determined the place of
the fouthernmoft iflands, and thefe were the objects
of incertitude to geographers. The fituation of Mare-
ckan being alfo accurately fettled, as well as that
of Point Lopatka, it feemed impoffible any error of
importance fhould remain in the direction of the
iflands between thefe two points. I therefore thought
it
[1787.
aching the
slear inter-
r as Point
t here than
ays we had
nd moft of
were happy
ight to get
. northward
ed we were
ftill conti-
t the wind
red to the
yet near the
ing the fog,
during the
for only a
feized the
n, in order
ice the lon-
yme incerti-
rly defined.
lrifted about
d with the
1 taken the
The fog re-
y thick the
the feafon
n of explor-
> my courfe
the place of
. the objects
ion of Mare-
well as that
any error of
ction of the
fore thought
it
1787.] “ROUND THE WOR£LD.: 07
it improper to facrifice to-an almoft ufelefé refearch
the health of the fhips’ crews, who began to ftand
in need of repofe, and whom the continual fogs
kept in a ftate of moifture, very prejudicial to their
health, notwithftanding ‘the - precautions we em-
ployed to counteract it. I .confequently fteered E,
N.E. and renounced my intention of anchoring off
one of the Kuriles, in order to obferve the nature
of the foil, and the manners of the inhabitants. [
am confident they are the fame nation as the inhabi-
tants of Tchoka and Chicha, according to the ac-
counts of the Ruffians, who have given us a voca-
bulary of their langrage, exactly fimilar to that we
formed at Langle Gay; the only difference confift-
ing in the manner in whieh we have underftood and
exprefied their pronunciation, which could not ftrike
} Roffian and French organs of hearing in a manner
exaclly fimilar. The fouthern iflands too, along
| which we ranged, wear a horrid afpeét ; and I am
of opinion the Company’s land, that of the Four Bro-
: thers, the ifland of Mareckan, &c. are uninhabit-
able. Barren rocks, deftitute of verdure and of ve-
getable foil, can but ferve as a refuge to the fhip-
wrecked navigator, who could then do nothing bet-
ter than to get immediately to the. iflands of Chi-
cha, or of Tchoka, by traverfing the channels that
feparate them,
Till the 5th of September the fog continued
à equally obftinate as before ; but as we had a-good
offing we crowded fail in the midft of the obicu-
rity; and at fix in the evening of the fame day
the weather clearing up, permitted us to fee the
coaft of Kamtfchatka. It extended from the W. by
N. to N. by W. and the mountains which we fet in
that point of the compafs, were precifely thofe of
the volcano, lying to the northward of St. Peter
and St. Paul, from which, however, we, were more
than thirty-five leagues, our latitude being 51° 30’,
Vox. II. H | All
ÿ8 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE fi 787.
All this coaft wore the moft hideous appearance.
The eye was pained with viewing it, and fhunned
with horror thefe terrible and enormous mafles
of rock, which the fnow yet covered at'the ‘bepin-
ning of September, and which feemed never to have
been’ bleffed with vegetation.
We now fhaped our courfe to the northward,
and during the night the wind came round to'the
N.W, The next day the weather continued clear.
We had then neared the land, which afforded the
eye a very agreeable object, when viewed at a fmall
diftance ; and the bafes of thefe enormous moun-
tains, whofe fummits are crowned with eternal
frofts, were carpeted with the moft beautiful ver-
dure, from the midft of which various tufts of trees
‘fpread their luxuriant branches. |
In the night of the 6th we got fight of the en-
‘trance of the bay of Awatfcha, or St. Peter and St.
‘Paul. The light-houfe which the Ruffians have
ereéted on the eafternmoft point of this bay, was
‘not lighted during the night. The governor told
us the next day he had made ineffectual exertions
‘to keep up the fire, for the wind conflantly extin-
~guifhed the light, which was only fheltered by four
deal planks, badly put together. The reader will
‘eafily perceive that this public work, fo worthy of
Kamtfchatka, has not been modelled on any ancient
‘pharos of ancient Greece, of Egypt, orof Italy. Yet
we muft go back to the heroic ages that preceded
the fiege of Troy, to find fo warm an hofpitality as
is cherithed in this barbarous country. Weentercd
the bay at ten o’clock at night, and the governor
came five leagues to meet us im his canoe, although |
the care of the light-houfe had employed him all 8
the night ; for he took on himfelf the fault of not
‘being able to ke: p the fire a light. ‘He told us we
had long been announced, and that he believed the
govefnor general of the peninfula, who had been
expected §
NL
BSS TATE
SET ETES
SS SETI
(1787. À L 21787] ROUND THE WORLD. 99
expected during five days at St. Peter and St. Paul,
eae D |
ep bie ee letters for us.
jus mafles Ve had fcarcely anchored before we faw : |
the ‘begin- | vicar of EEE with his wife and ay th got
ver to have | = dren, come on board. From that moment we fore-
faw that we might perhaps behold fome of the per;
northward, fonages who acted a part in the laft voya e of
und to'the fa Captain Cook, and that it would be eafy to "
nued clear. 15 duce them again upon the fcene. SEA AE
fforded the ls . |
1 at a fmall
ous moun-
ith eternal
autiful ver-
ufts of trees | CHAP. XXI
of the en- DA «SUPPLEMENT TO THE PRECEDING CHAPTERS—A
eter and St. | : DITIONAL DETAILS RELATIVE TO THE EA vow
uffians have DU |§$ COAST OF TARTARY—DOUBTS the spin
is bay, was PRETENDED PEARL FISHERY, SPOKEN OF fr et
vernor told | JESUITS—PHYSICAL aera sets! Bale de se 3
nab exertions oe ISLANDERS OF THAT COUNTRY AND rata pt a
lantly extin- | TANTS: OR THR ae eae INHABI-
ered by four ed COUNTRY—IMPOSSIBILITY OF CARRYING ao à
| reader will | PROFITABLE BRANCH OF COMMERCE TH het
fo worthy of | 7% CABULARY OF THE INHABITANTS OF es aa
) any ancient Lo OF TCHOKA, OR
Italy. Yet ‘iMG RMA
hat » preceded
hofpitality as
Weentered
the governor
hoe, although
eyed him all
| fault of not
fe told us we
e believed the
‘ho had been
expected
QYUR navigation from Manilla to the i
ille he ifland of
D eri was only new to ourfelves; for the
RTE lave long carried on a trade with Japan, and
ries OF er two fhips every year to Nangafacki: but
Fan pe phase they direét their courfe by the
An a ormofa, or pafs to the eaftward of that
AE ee been affured that their captains take
oe L efore their departure from Batavia to kee
fe par rari of their voyage fecret, and to fuffer ue
copies of the manufcript charts delivered them to be
H 2 . taken.
100 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
taken. Does not this precaution fhew they are of
opinion other Europeans would be received at Ja-
“pan equally with themfelves, and might trade there
‘m competition with them? Or is it not poffible,
‘on the other hand, that this oath is merely an an-
cient cuftom they have neglected to reform ?
Be this as it may, I am of opinion the time
‘is at length arrived when the veil of myftery will be
removed from particular navigations. That art has
made too important a progrefs to be retarded by
fuch obftacles. Geography will now ceafe to be an
abftrufe fcience, becaufe the fpirit of difpute and
criticifm will become ufelefs, when every important
point of land fhall be laid down by accurate ob-
fervations of latitude and longitude. The period is
rapidly approaching when every nation will know
the extent of the feas that furround them, and of
the land they inhabit. Although the feas of Tar-
tary that we explored, are the limits of the continent
moit anciently inhabited, thefe were equally un-
known by the Europeans with the ftraits of Anian, or
the archipelago of St. Lazarus. Even the Jefuits,
who have made us fo well acquainted with China,
have not afforded us any information on the eaftern
part of this vaft empire; and thofe who have tra-
velled into Tartary, were not permitted to approach
the fea coaft. This precaution, and the prohibi-
tion by the Emperor of Japan, in all ages, to navigate
to the northward of bis dominions, were motives to
believe this part of Afia concealed immenfe riches,
which the policy of Japan and China dreaded making
known to the Europcans. The details of the pre-
ceding chapters muft have convinced the reader,
that the eaftern coaft of Tartary is ftill lefs inhabited
than that to the northward of America. Separated
in a manner by the river Segalien from the conti-
nent, to whofe direction its courfe is almoft parallel,
as well as by inacceflible mountains, it has never been
\ . vifited
PRE
-
Fe
es DER
[1787.
ey are of
ed at Ja-
rade there
t poffible,
the time
ery will be
hat art has
etarded by
e to be an
ifpute and
important
curate ob-
e period is
will know
em, and of
bas of Tar-
e continent
qually un-
of Anian, or
the Jefuits,
with China,
the eaftern
o have tra-
to approach
he | prohibi-
, to navigate
: motives to
enfe riches,
ded making
of the pre-
the reader,
fs inhabited
* Separated
_ the conti-
1oft parallel,
; never been
. vifited
i
101
vifited by the Chinefe and Japanefe, but near its li-
1787.| ROUND THE WORLD.
mits towards the fea. The very few inhabitants we
mect with, derive their origin from the nations who
inhabit the north of Afia, and have no analogy, in
this refpect, with the Mantchou Tartars, and ftill
lefs with the iflanders of Oku-Jeffo or the Kuriles.
It is eafy to perceive that fuch a country, fituated be-
twecn the fea, and mountains lefs than twenty leagues
from the coaft, cannot be furnifhed with any con-
fiderable river. The Segalien, which is beyond it,
receives all the ftreams which run to the weftward.
Thofe to the eaftward are divided into rivulets in all
the valleys; and no country is better watered, nor
difplays a more delightful frefhnefs in fummer. I efti-
mate at lefs than 3000, the total of the inhabitants
compofng the little colonies of this country, from the
point where we.firft made land, in 42°, to the bay of
Caftrics, near the mouth of the Segalien. ‘This river,
which the Mantchou Tartars defcended in canoes to
©
the fea, from whence they fpread over the coaft,
both to the northward and fouthward, forms the
only avenue to their internal commerce. It is now
indeed very much frequented; and there is not
perhaps a fingle individual on this part of the con-
tinent, and on the iflands of Jeffo and Oku-Jefio,
who is not gs well acquainted with the Segalien as
the inhabitants of Egypt and Judea were with the
Nile. But their commerce is carried on only eight
pr ten days’ fail up that river ; and it appears that its
mouth, like that of the Ganges, prefents an unin-
habited country ; a circumftance to be attributed to
the fterility of a foil, almoft inundated, and covered
with fWwamps and marfhes, where the flocks of cat-
tle, which form the principal riches of the Tartars,
cannot find a falubrious fubfifience. I have ob- .
ferved, that the Jefuits declare there is a pearl-
fifhery on this coaft. In fat, we found oyfters
containing pearls; but I acknowledge I know not
where
141907
102 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
where to place this fifhery, unlefs it be on the con-
fines of Corea, or at the mouth of the Segalien.
In that cafe, I imagine it cannot, be comparable to
thofe of Baffora, or the Gulf of Monaar, which em-
ploy five or fix thoufand hands. It is poffible, how-
ever, that fome families of fifhermen may unite
there, in order to fifh for pearls, which they may
afterwards barter for nankeens and other objects. of
commerce, from China, of fmall value. I tried the
experiment, of fhewing the Bitchys, and the iflan-
ders of Oku-Jeflo fome falfe pearls, perfectly. well
imitated, yet did not perceive they were more
ftruck with them than with common beads, ~
We fhould form a very erroneous idea of this
country, if we fuppofed we might arrive there, by the
rivers that flow from the interior of the country, or
that the Chinefe carry on any trade there. We
ranged clofe along the coaft, and frequently within
gun fhot, without perceiving any village. We faw
in the bay of Ternai bears, hinds, and fawns feed-
ing like domeftic animals, and raifing their heads
to view our fhips with aftonifhment as we arrived in
the bay. A tomb and fome burnt trees, were the
omy objects that authorifed a fuppofition of other
johabitants. The bay of Suffren was no lefs a defart :
and twenty-five or thirty individuals feemed to form
the whole population of the bay of Caftries, though it
might cafily have fupported 10,000 perfons. °
Our. naturalifts found on the coaft, and at the
mouths of the rivers, neither pyrites nor pebbles con-
taining ore, nor gold duft diffeminated among the
fand, in fhort nothing fhewing the foil to contain
any metal. However, we found flints, chalcedonies,
fpars, zeolites, porphyry, and a variety of volcanic fub-
{tances, which contained very little fhorl, but a great
quantity of the fine chryftallizations, and incruft-
ations, found in the lava of extinguithed volcanoes.
The coaft of Oku-Jeflo which forms the eafiern
fhore
(1787.
the con-
Segalien.
arable to
hich em-
ble, how.
ay unite
they. may
objects. of
tried the
the iflan-
ectly. well
ere more
a of this
re, by the
ountry, or
ere. We
tly within
We faw
awns feed-
heir heads
arrived in
were the
n of other
sa defart ;
ed to form
» though it
1s.
nd at the
bbles con-
mong the
to contain
alecdonies,
lcanic fub-
ut a great
d incruft-
volcanoes.
he eafiern
{hore
1787.) ROUND THE WORLD. 103.
fhore of the channel of Tartary, is ftill more fertile
in plants than that of the continent oppofite to it,
and vegetation feemed to be there enlivened with fu.
perior energy. Yet the inhabitants do not on that
account lay a heavier tax on the fertility of the foil, .
and the animal kingdom almoft exclufively furnifhes
them with {ubfiftence.- For I do not confider a few
cloves of faranna and garlic, which the women dry
and gather on the fkirts of the woods, of much im-
portance. I am even inclined to believe, that hunt-
ing is rather their amufement than their occupation,
for fifh either frefh or dried, like corn in France, is
with them the bafis of their nourifhment. Two dogs,
given me at the bay of Caftrics, at firft refufed to
eat meat, but fell on fifth with a voracity equalled
only by that of wolves that have been long famifhed :
neceflity alone accuftomed them by degrees to a dif-
ferent kind of food.
The bear and elk fkins with which thefe people
were clothed, left no doubt that in winter they hunt
thefe animals. But the inhabitants of the continent
are, in general too fecble to venture to engage them
with arrows. On the contrary they informed us by
figns, that they fet fnares for them by fixing a bait to
a bow powerfully drawn. The animal while devour-
ing the bait, lets off a trigger, which fhoots an arrow
aimed at the bait. But the iflanders, more generous,
becaufe more robuft, fcemed proud of their wounds,
and delight in exhibiting them, giving us to un-
derftand they had combated bears with flakes, after
having wounded them with arrows.
Their canoes are formed of an excavated fir tree,
and hold feven or cight perfons. They manage them
with very light ours, and in thefe flight veflels, un-
dertake voyages of two leagues from the fouthern ex-
tremity of Oku-Jefi and Jetlo in 429, as far as the
river Segalien in 55%. But they never go more than
a piftol-fhot from fhore, except when they crofs from
H 4 one
104 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE: [1787.
one ifland to another, and for this they wait for a
dead calm. The wind, which always follows the di-
rection of the channel, never raifes a furf upon the
fhore ; fo that it is as eafy to land in all the creeks, as
in the beft fheltered road-fleads. Every night they
run their canoes aground on the beach, and carry with
them birch bark, which with fome fir branches, enables
them to conftruct a cabin in an inftant, Rivulets filled
with falmon fecure them a fubfiftence, and each own-
er of a canoe has his kettle, his trivet, his flint-ficel,
and tinder bark, and wherever they land their hut is
erected, their fifh harpooned, and their meal pre-
pared within an hour of their landing. This kind of
navigation is as fafe as that of the canal of Languedoc.
They arrive within a ftated number of days, and ftop
every evening in the fame creeks, or on the banks of
the fame rivulets. They marked upon our chart the
number of their refting places between Cape Cril-
Jon and the river Segalien, whence it appears, they
make 11 leagues a day; and though their canoes
are furnifhed with neither mafts nor yards, they
fometimes fix a fhirt on two oars placed acrofs, and
thus by failing get on with lefs fatigue than by row-
ing. Near their villages are fmall canoes for only
one or two perfons, which though never ufed in
long voyages, are employed in entering the rivulets
to filh. They are fo extremely light, that when the
depth of water is but 12 or 15 inches, they ufe fmall
{ticks inftead of poles, and keeping theit feats, puth
againft the bottom, fo as to pafs on with very great
rapidity. When the depth is greater, they manage
them with paddles. The manners and cufioms of
thefe two people differ by very flight fhades. They
purfue the fame mode of life, ufc the fame naval and
domeftic architecture, and pay the fame refpect to old
age. But in this parallel, I am perfuaded the Tar-
t rs excel in morality, and the iflanders in indufiry,
and particularly in the firmnefs ‘and other virtue;
arifing
[1787.
ait for a
vs the di-
upon the
creeks, as
ight they
carry With
2g, enables
alets filled
each own-
flint-ficel,
heir hut is
meal pre-
ais kind of
anguedoc.
s, and ftop
e banks of
- chart the
Cape Cril-
ears, they
lei Canoes
ards, they
icrofs, and
in by row-
es for only
er ufed in
he rivulets
t when the
y ufe fmall
feats, puth
very great
ey manage
cuftoms of
les. They
e naval and
fpect to old
hd the T'ar-
in indufiry,
her virtucs
arifing
} 187. | ROUND THE WORLD. : 105
arifing from a confcioufnefs of their own ftrength,
We thought we obferved in Oku-Jeflo, a diftinétion
of rank which does not exift in Tartary. In each
canoe was a man with whom the others did not af.
fociate ; who did not eat with them, and appeared
in a ftate of abfolute fubjéétion. We fufpecied he
might even be a flave; but although this is mere
conjecture, he was certainly of very inferior rank.
The Jeflonefe and Oku-Jetionefe poffefs an article
of commerce, of which the Bitchys and Orotchys are
totally deftitute. This is whale oil; that animal
abounding on the eaftern coaft of their iflands, where
we perceived as great a number as in the ftrait of Le
Maire, though we did not fee one in the narrow fea
of Tartary. The greater facility of communication
of the Iflanders with Japan, gives the furniture of
their huts an air of opulence, not vifible on the con-
tinent, except in their tombs ; for which the Tartars
referve all their riches. We faw no monument of
that nature, thus decorated among the Segalians.
But we obferved there, as in the bay of Caftries
images fufpended from the roofs of their huts, and
the matter of one of the canoes in the bay of Crillon
to whom I gave a bottle of brandy, threw a few drops
into the fea, before he fet off, giving us to under-
fiand, this ljbation was an offering to the Supreme
Being. But the fky appears to be the vault of his
temple, and the heads of families his minifters,
It will be readily concluded, from this account,
that no commercial motive can hold out an induce-
ment for Europeans to frequent thefe feas. A little
whale oil, and dried or fmoked fifh, are very trifling
articles of exportation, to cover the expences of fo
long a voyage. I may even obferve, as a general
maxim, that an extenfive commerce can only be
gartied on with a great nation ; and were theie ar-
ticles objects of importance, a curgo of 300 tons
’ could
106 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
could not be completed on all thefe various coafis,
which extend more than 1000 leagues. Although
the dried falmon_of the bay of Caftries appeared of a
good quality, and it was very eafy to buy it, I con-
fefs, I felt a fcruple that withheld me, left thefe
poor people fhould be felling their winter provifion,
and perifh for want when that feafon arrived.
We did not obferve any fea otters, and though we
fhewed the inhabitants famples of ours, thefe furs
feemed totally unknown to them; and they did not
appear to place a higher value on them, than on the
feals fkins of which they make their boots. Ap-
parently that amphibious animal is only found on the.
eaftern coaft of the northern Kuriles, which fhews
that its true country is to the eaftward of Afia, to-
wards the coaft of America, where as I have already
faid, they are found in great quantities, from Oono-
Jlafhka Point to San Diego, on the weftern coaft of
California. In reading the yarious accounts, which
have given birth to fo many falfe ideas of the im-
menfe country we have lately reconnoitred, we find
many truths difperfed among them, which it is very
difficult to develope. Father des Anges’ was cer-
tainly acquainted with thefe nations, and his defcrip-
tion of the country is accurate: but fituated at the
fouthern extremity of Jefo, oppofite ta Japan, he
could neither conceive, nor venture to fuppofe fa
great an extent of country ; the ftrait of Tefloy of
which he fpeaks, and which, as the Iflanders informed
him., was obftruéted by fea-weeds, is fo’ near the
continent, as to fee with the naked eye a horfe feed-
. ing on the other fide, and is no other than the top of
the gulph we failed into, from whence we faw Point
Boutin, on the ifland of Oku-Jeflo, ftretching out
towards the continent, and terminating in the fea
like a fand bank a toife or two high. ‘The accounts
of Kempfer, and the letters of. Father Gaubil, alfa
contain
[1787.
is coafis,
Although
ared of a
it, I con-
left thefe
provifion,
1.
hough we
thefe furs
y did not
an on the
ots. Ap-
ind on the.
ich fhews
f Afia, to-
ve already
om Oono-
n coaft of
nts, which
of the im-
d, we find
1 it is very
s' was cer-
is defcrip-
ated at the
Japan, he
fuppofe fa
f Tefloy of
rs informed
fo’ near the
horfe feed-
1 the top of
e faw Point
stching out
- in the fea
he accounts
Gaubil, alfa
contain
1787. | ROUND THE WORLD, 107
contain fome truths *; but both thefe writers have
related whatever the Japanefe or Tartars told them,
and they had only converfed with men too ignorant
to be relied on for their accuracy. In fhort, the Ruf-
fians denied the exifience of thefe two iflands, though
more confiderable than thofe of Britain. They con-
founded them with the Kuriles, and did not fuppofe
there was any intermediate land between them and
the continent of Afia-+-. On this fuppofition, the
feas
*{t is for the Ruffians” (favs Father Gaubil) to inform us,
‘‘ whether large fhips can paf through the ftrait which feparates
“ Jefo from Tartary.” « That enlightened Jefuit did not torefee,
that this problem would be folved by the navigators of France.—
Frexch Editor.
+ Although it cannot be fuppofed it will ever be attempted to
rob the navigators of France of the honour of this important dif-
covery of the land of Jeffo, or Chicha Ifland, lying to the north-
ward of Japan, 1 will point out in this place the ignorance of the
Ruffians, relative to the exiftence of that ifland. I fhall draw a proof
of it from the tranflation ofa paffage in the Ruffian account of
Kracheninikoff, at his return from a voyage to Kamtfchatka, page
34 of Vol. I. 4to.
« The Kamtfchadales were in poffeffion of iron utenfils befure
& the arrival of the Ruffians in that peninfula, being furnifhed with
them by means of the Japanefe, who made voyages to the Kurile
4 [flands, though they rarely ftretched fo far as the river Bolchaia-
“ Reka.” He adds, in fupport of this affertion, that ‘ the Kamts-
“ chadales give the name of Chicha-Mann to the Japanefe, be-
* caufe needles are called chif-h in this language, and the Japanefe
“ were tie firft who taught them the ufe of needles made of iron
“ and fteel.”
Had the Ruffian author, like La Péroufe, had an opportunity of
vifiting the iflands lving to the northward of Japan, he would have
found one bearing the name of Chicha ; amd in lieu of purfuing fo
ridiculous an etymology, would have confined himfelf to the natural
origin of that name; he would have added the fyllable mann, ufed
in the dialect of feveral nations, to perfonify the name of their
country, to Chicha, fo as to fignily a man of Chicha, not a needle-
man.
‘Va? inference from this obfervation is, that the Ruffians having
Jong inhabited Kamtfchatka, and thus being very near neighbours
to tiefe iflands, have no clear idea of the exiftence of the itlands
lying to the northward of Japan, though they frequently made voy-
-ges to the Ruriles. This is the lefs to be doubted, asthe Ruffians,
decording to thefe data, take thofe Manders for Japanefe.
oa ee lam
108 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787,
feas of Japan and of Corea were open to their fhips
from Okhofkt ; but this fuppofition would annihi-
late the authenticity of the voyage of the Dutch in
1634, and we may venture to aflert, that the nayi-
gation of Captain Vries.is the moft accurate that
could have been practifed, at a time when the method
of taking obfervations was extremely defective. It
appears, that the Dutch endeavoured to compenfute
this difadvantage, by the moft minute attention to
their reckoning, and the accuracy of their bearings,
If the firait we difcovered, efcaped their obfervation,
feamen who are acquainted with foggy feas, will
fcarcely be furprifed. The latitude and longitude of
this ftrait were determined in our voyage with fo
much precifion, that there no longer remains any diffi-
culty in penetrating, by this channel, into the feas of
Corea, Langle Peak, which rifes more than 1200
toifes above the level of the fea, and is vifible in clear
weather at a difiance of 40 leagues, is an excellent
Jand-mark for the ‘fouthern coaft of this channel,
which it is more convenient to run along, than that of
the north, the currents being more moderate. The
exact knowledge of the geqgraphy of this part of the
continent, which the fatigues of our expedition will
procure to France, and other European countries,
may become more immediately ufeful to the Ruf-
fians, who may perhaps one day poflefs an important
navigation to Okhotik, and will caufe the arts and
fcieuces of Europe to flourifh in thefe countries, now
inhabited by wandering Tartar hords, but more par-
ticularly appropriated to bears and other animals of
the forefts.
I fhall not attempt to explain how Jeffo, Oku-
Jeflo, and all the Kuriles, have become peopled by a
different race of men from that of the Japanefe, Chi-
I am indebted for the tranflation of the above paffage from Kra-
cheninikoff, to Leffeps, the Ruffian interpreter, who accompanied
La Péroufe on this voyage.—Zrerch Editor.
nefe,
[1787,
their fhips
id annihi-
: Dutch in
t the navi-
urate that
he method
ective. It
ompenfate
ittention to
ir bearings,
bbfervation,
feas, will
ngitude of
ge with fo
s any diffi-
the feas of
than 1200
ble in clear
n excellent
is channel,
than that of
rate. The
part of the
sdition will
1 countries,
o the Ruf-
1 important
1e arts and
ntries, now
t more par-
animals of
Jeflo, Oku-
eopled by a
anefe, Chi-
age from Kra-
o accompanied
nefe,
1787.] - ROUND THE WORLD. 109
nefe, Kamtfchadales, and Tartars, from whom the
Oku-Jeflonefe are only feparated to the northward,
by a narrow and fhallow channel. As a traveller, I
relate facts, and point out diftinélions, Icaving it to
others to reduce them to a fyftem. Although I did
not land in the Kuriles, I am certain, from the ac-
counts of the Ruffians, and the identity of the lan-
guage of the Kuriles, with that of the vocabulary at
the end of the prefent chapter, that the inhabitants
of thefe iflands, and thofe of Jeflo,and Oku-Jeffo, have
a common origin. Though their manners and mode
of life differ very little from thofe of the continent ;
nature has ftamped fo marked a phyfical difference
between thefe two nations, as to conftitute a more
inconteftible proof, than any medal or monument
whatever, that thefe iflands were not originally
peopled from this part of the continent, and that
their inhabitants are a colony of men, perhaps even
firangers to Afia. Although Oku-Jeffo lies 150
leagues to the weftward of the Kuriles, and it is im-
pofñible to crofs in fuch flight veffels as their fir ca-
noes, they may, however, eafily communicate to-
gether, becaufe all thefe iflands, feparated from cach
other by channels of various widths, form a kind of
circle; and none of their channels prefents an extent
of 15 leagues. Thus it would be poflible to go:in
canoes from Kamtfchatka to the mouth of the river
Segalien, by purfuing the chain of the iflands as far
as that of Mareckan, and pafling from this laft to the
ifland of Four Brothers, Company’s Land, Staten
Ifland, Jeflo, and Oku-Jeffo, and thus to arrive at the
limits of Ruffian Tartary. But the names of Jefño,
and Oku-Jefld, if pronounced among thefe Iflanders,
would be unmeaning empty founds, and are appa-
rently Japanefe words. - Neither the Vartars, nor the
pretended Jeffonefe, and Oku-Jeflbnefe have any
knowledge of them. The latter call their own
ifland Tchoka, and the former Chicha. This con-
: | fufion
do LA PÉROUSES VOFAGE, fiver.
fafion of names js very injurious to the progrefs of
navigation ; it is, at leaft, a totally ufelefs tax upon the
memory. I am of opinion, that when the true name
of a country is once known, it ought to be fcrupu
loufly adhered to, or ia.defaylt of that; the names
employed by the moft ancient navigators. This
plan, from which I have never deviated; has been
faithfully purfued in the charts we have conftructed
during our voyage, and if it has ever been, departed
from, it has arifen merely from not being acquainted
with the faéts, not from the ridiculous vain-glory of
fabricating new names.
VOCABULARY OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE ISLAND
QF TCHOKA, FORMED AT LANGLE BAY.
Some of the words of the language of Tchoka are
pronounced in the throat, but their pronunciation
muft be foft, refembling that of perfons who {peak
rather thick. It.is here exprefled by e#. The gs at
the beginning of fome words, is ufed to exprefs a
kind of whiftling, which muft be founded before ar.
ticulating the fyllables that follow *.
. Names of the principal parts of the human body. —
eye, the eyes.
the eyebrows.
Quechetau the forehead.
Etou
Téhé
: Qs-chara
* In all thefe vocabularies the French fpelling is adhered to, and
confequently the French-pronunciation.—Frene> Editor,
Chapa
fiver.
FO efs of
x upon the
20 ponfirudted
n. departed
acquainted
ain-glory of
CHÉ ISLAND
BAY. |
Tchoka are
onunciation
s who fpeak
The gs at
o exprefs a
A before ar-
an body:
adhered to, and
ditor,
Chapa
1787. | ROUND THE WORLD. 11r
gpass......s. the hair.
Gr ie hrs the nape of the neck,
Saitourou ‘.....: the back.
Lg .... the fhoulder.
Taë&s fonk ......the arm.
Tay ET Ab PER site the fore part of the arm.
Tay-ha ..,.....thewriit.
Tay pompé . the hand, and thefingers in general
Tchouai pompé. . . . the thumb.
Khouaime pompé… . the fore finger.
Kmoche kia pompe the middle finger.
Oufla pompé. + the fourth finger.
Para pompé. ..... the little finger.
Tchame ........ the fore and upper part of the
breaft.
Toho .......... the nipples.
Fone .ccceceves the belly.
Tsigd...ecccees the male genitals.
Chipouille .. +... the female genitals.
Afforoka........ the buttocks.
Anbe ce RE buis the thighs.
Aouchi ........ the knees.
TOO revues the ham, or bend of the knee.
AiMGifi ........ the legs.
Oatchika....,... the calf of the leg.
Acouponé ...... the ankles.
Paraouré ...... the upper part of the foot.
Otocoukaïon .:..the heels.
Ouraipo ........ the fole of the foot.
Kaima pompéam . . the great toe.
Taffou pompéam .. the fecond toe.
Taffou ha pompéam the middle toe.
Taffouam ..,... the fourth and the little toe.
Names Cd various objects.
TOWRA Se ie, name of the great ifland they in-
habit.
Tanina
EE
112 ! UA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787:
Tanina ........ another name. for the fame; but
À the majority call it Tchoka.
Chicha ... . name of an ifland or people the
point out to the. fouthward of
that.of Tchoka.
Mantcheous:..... nations of: Tartary, near the river
. Amur or Segalien, and, the
ifland of Tchoka. . According
to the Iflanders, who pointed
out thefe people as fituated to
the north-weft, fhips may. pafs
through the channel that dis
vides: them:
TFehoixa.... the fea:
Kaiani or Kahani. hip, veftel:
Hocatoürou...... canoe.
acte. ls oie eine thole of a canoc.
Oukannefi ...... oars, or paddles..
a fmall fquare veflel of basé
-birch, and furnifhed with a
handle. It is ufed for drinking,
and for baling water out of
canoes.
. a kind of wooden fhove] for baling
__ water out of canoes.,
Turatte ........a very long and ftrong leather
ftrap, fix or eight lines broad,
ufed principally for making ca-
Koch-Kotim...
Ouacietatei bak
noes faft.
Soïtta..........thwart of a canoe.
Moncara........ iron hatchet. M *
Moses a large damafcened iron lance, M
Couboee: “Nr dé a bow.
Hah ci vegans common arrows, tipped with iron,
fhaped like a ferpent’s tongue,
fome barbed, others plain. M
* The letter M. is annexed to the articles furnifhed by the Mant-
chou Tartars, with whom they traffic,
at Taffehet
Ss pwc 3
[4
[1787:
.fame; but
‘choka.
eople they
ithward of
r the river
and, the
According
hé pointed
fituated to
s may. pafs
ol that dix
{
of beech
od. with a
r drinking,
er out of
] for baling
n g leather
ines. broad,
making ca-
à lance, M
| with iron,
it’s tongue,
plain. M
Taffehet
| by the Mant-
ROUND THE WORLD. _ 113
Bus iat . forked arrows with two branches
Tafihe : tipped alfo with iron. M
Etanto vsedseeee wooden arrows with knobs,
| Tuffiro .........a large cutlafs. M
fmall knife in a fheath, fufpended
Mathr ainitfi and to the leather girdle which keeps
Makiri ...+- their upper garment croficd. M
Matfirés ss their name for our knives with
eI fheaths.
Hakame ........ large ring of iron, lead, wood, or
feacow’s tooth, an inftrument .
forced on to the thumb of the
left hand. M
Kaine.......... fewing needle.
Tchikotampé . our cravats or handkerchiefs,
B Achka.. +0100 a hat or bonnet.
D Tobéka.........feacalf’s fkin, in the form of a
| long loofe great coat.
OR A-*touffa....... a loofe great coat woven with fine
| birch bark, prepared with great
art
Séturvus. ....... a large loofe great coat or furtout
| of dog’s fkin.
| Tetarape. s...... a kind of fhirt of coarfe ftuff, and
adorned with a border of blue
‘ nankeen round the bottom and
neck.
Otoumouchi...... fmall round brafs waiftcoat but-
tons. M
OCA ss ere leather ftockings or bufkins, ftitch-
ed to their fhoes,
| Téhirau ........ fhoes of the Chinefe fhape, ter-
minating in a point very muth
turned up.
| Mirauhau...... . a fmall leather bag with four twift-
ed horns, ufed as a pocket, and
. fufpended to their leather girdle.
I Tcharompé
f14 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
Tcharompé...... ear-rings, generally confifting of
’ feven or eight blue beads. M
Tama..,.....,.. blue beads loofe; all the natives
have a decided tafte and prefer.
! ence for this colour. à
Hitrachtchinam.. . @ large firong mat on which they |
fit and fleep.
Achkakaroupé..... fall umbrella or fhadein the fhape
of.a fan, ufed to defend the eyes
of old people from the fun.
Hounechi fire.
Tamout ........
Taipo
' Nintou ...« a buckét to draw water, made of à
birch bark, in the fame fhape as
ours, with its handle.
Ouachka........ freth water.
Chichepo........fea-water.
“Abtka....…...... fmall cord.
Sorompé large woodén fpoons.
Chouhou copper kettle, M.
Niffÿ...........arodor pole. . ~
' Pouhau.........hut or houfe.
Nioupouri ....... the houfes or the village. | |
Oho. vi vi, 2 0 the plain where the village ftands LS
ON . the river running along the fame
plain. —
-Touhot .. the fun.
Hourara |
‘Hourara haine ..
Tébaira
Tébarrouha ..:... the winter or fnowy feafon.
Chouman. .; ftone, the generic term. ‘À
N ...: trunk of a tree, and-wood in ¢e- §
néral. > \
Qs-fieheché . zit deal plank.-
1 whe
[1787.
mfifting of
beads. M
the natives
and prefer-
which ‘they |
in the fhape
end the eyes
he fun.
er, made of D
me fhape as
8.
Agee. . a
illage flands,
ng the fame
feafon.
m.
W
T 0 che
‘ood in ge &
1787,]
Toché .verecrvere
Otoroutchina
Thboko.
Mahouni
Taruho
Mahatfi
Pech koutou |
fi»
Toukochich
ROUND THE WORLD. 115
. unworked bark of the birch, in
._ large pieces.
mofs, plant. |
.» + herbage in general, or meadows,
fmallage, or wild celery.
the wild rofe-tree.
the rofe-tree bloffoms, commonly -
called dog-rofe. ©
a kind of tulip. ©
angelica plant.
. a bird in general, or the finging of
birds.
a bird’s feather. »
the jack-daw, a fpecies of crow.
fmall common fwallow.
à gull, a web-footed bird, frequent-
ing the fea fhore.
a common fly with two wings, or
dipteron. ;
large common kimà cockle.
large mother-of-pearl oyfter.
harp-fith. :
Emo, enn .. fith in general, or particular name
Chaubotn
He and hi
Hya
H ouaku °
of a fpecies of barbel.
a ipecies of carp, or fifh of the ca
’ kind. |
a fifh-bone, or back-bone, which
they broil and prefervein heaps.
milt, eggs and air bladder of fith,
which they alfo preferve.
Common words.
No.
No, that cannot be; I cannot ; I
will not. ©
I 2 Ta-fà
116 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787
Tafa ......:... Who? what ? what is it? an inter.
| rogative pronoun.
Tap, or tapé..... this, that, this here, that there; a
| demonftrative pronoun.
Coukaha ..:..... come hither. ‘2
Ajbé........... eating (the action of.) #
buha....:..... to drink. k
Mouaro ....:...tolie down, or to fnores ;À
Etaro. .........t0o fleep. À
Numbers. 4
Tohind o 6 0issci berne ee one, “
bb sinseéte Bek pales ARE D two 1
FORD AMEN PR RENTE RAR AN three. a
DC BAP a ET PT AN EE PER four. 4
AONE 05 66: sinsiote ape Peas eh oe five a
FAME isis’ ocdyore’ à 8e virer oo. 0,059 fix a
Araouampé ..........::.:.. fevens 4
Toubi fchampé. ::.....:,,... eight. a
Tchinéh Jchampé ........ +... nine. \
Houampé.. 5... ten. à
Tchinébi kaffma....... .... eleven. a
Toubi kaffma ......+... twelve. 4
Tchébi kafma...... . s . «thirteen. Be
Ynébi kaffra : . .... +. « . fourteen. iB
Afchnébi kafina....... » fifteen.
Fhambi kaffma:......... fixteen.
Araouambi kaffma ....... feventeen. 4
Toubi fchampt kaffima ...... eighteen. 4
Tchinèbi Jchampi kaffma . . ; . nineteen.
Houampébi kaffma . ...... twenty.
Houampébi kaffma tchiné-ho. . « thirty.
Yné houampé touch-ho..... forty.
Afchné houampé taich-ho . . . . fifty.
Tou afchné houampé taich-ho. ... one hundred.
If in this language there is any difference betweeñ
the fingular and the plural, it is rot expreffive by
their pronunciation. |
I neither
[1787,
it? an inter-
hat there; a
our.
res
t.
en.
lve.
teen.
rteen.
en.
een.
nteen.
iteen.
eteen.
nty.
Lys
Ys
vhtindred.
rence betweeit
t expreffive by
I neither
1787.) ROUND THE WORLD. . 117
I neither faw thefe iflanders dance nor fing, but
they all produce pleafing founds from the principal
(talk of a large kind of celery, or fpecies of Euphor-
bium, open at each extremity. "They blow at the
{mall end, and their tones are a tolerable imitation of
the fofter notes of a trumpet. They play no de-
terminate air, but a mere fucceffion of high and low
notes, the compafs of which may exténd to an octave
and a half, or two octaves, that is to 12 or 16 tones.
We did not perceive, they had any other mufical in-
firument.
wae © fe Q Gee
CHAP. XXII.
ANCHORAGE IN THE BAY OF AWATSCHA—OBLIGING
RECEPTION OF LIEUTENANT KABOROF—ARRIVAL
OF M. KASLOFF-OUGRENIN, GOVERNOR OF OK-
HOTSK, AT THE HARBOUR OF ST. PETER AND ‘ST.
PAUL—HE IS FOLLOWED ON BOARD BY M. SCHMA-
LEFF AND THE UNFORTUNATE IVACHKIN, WHO.
EXCITES IN US THE MOST LIVELY INTEREST—
KIND OFFICES OF THE GOVERNOR TOWARDS US—=
A BALL AMONG THE KAMTSCHADALES—A COURIER
ARRIVES FROM OKHOTSK AND BRINGS US LETTERS
FROM FRANCE—WE DISCOVER THE TOMB OF M.
DE LA CROYERE, TO WHICH, AND TO THAT OF
CAPT. CLERKE, WE AFFIX INSCRIPTIONS, ENGRAV-
ED ON COPPER—NEW POLITICAL VIEWS OF M.
KASLOFF, RELATIVE TO THE ADMINISTRATION OF
KAMTSCHATKA—WE OBTAIN PERMISSION TO SEND
OUR INTERPRETER, WITH OUR PAPERS, TO FRANCE
—DEPARTURE FROM THE BAY OF AWATSCHA.
X X TE had not yet moored before the harbour of
St. Peter and St. Paul, when we received a
vifit from tbe Toyon, or chief of the village, and many
13 3 other
118 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1797
other inhabitants, who brought us each fome pre.
fents of falmon or fkate, and offered their fervices in
hunting boars, or fhooting the wild ducks which
covered the ponds and rivers. We accepted thefe
offers, lent them our mufkets, gave them powder
and fhot, and had plenty of game during our whole
ftay in the Bay of Awatfcha They made no demand
of any compenfation for their labour, but we had
‘been fo abundantly furnifhed at Breft, with articles
of great value to the inhabitants of Kamtfchatka,
that we infifted on their accepting fome marks of our
gratitude, and our treafures permitted us to pro.
portion thefe rather to their wants, than to the pre.
fents they brought us. The government of Kamt-
{chatka had been totally changed fince the departure
of the Englifh. It was now a mere province to that
of Okhotfk, and the various potts of this peninfula M
had their refpective commandants, who were ac- |
countable only to the commandant-general of Ok-
hotfk. Capt. Schmaleff, who fucceeded Major Behm,
ro tempore, {till remained in that country with the
title of commandant of the Kamtfchadales. M.
Reinikin, the actual fucceñlor-of Major Behm, who ||
errived at Kamtfchatka foon after the departure of M
the Englith, had been governor only during four à
years, having returned ta Peterfburgh in 1784. We
Jearnt thefe particulars of Lieutenant Kaborof, who |
commanded at the harbour of St. Peter and St,
Paul, having under his orders a ferjeant and a de-
tachment of 40 foldiers, or coffacks. ‘This officer
paid us the moft unlimited attention and politenefs;
and his perfonal fervices,as well as thofe of his detach-
ment, and every thing he poflefled, were at our dif-
ofal. He would not even permit me to fend an
officer to Bolcheretfk, where M. Kafloff-Ougrenin,
governor of Okhotik, then on a tour through this
province, moft fortunately happened to be. He in-
formed me, the governor would come within a few |
7 days |
Ss oh ceca 8 D
a pe pi
meet hme A FF et ve
[1787
fome pre.
ir fervices in
ucks which
cepted thefe
hem powder
hg our whole
e no demand
but we had
with articles
amtfchatka,
marks of our
us to pro-
n to the pre.
ent of Kamt-
he departure
vince to that
his peninfula 7
ho were ac- |
neral of Ok- |
Major Behn,
mtry with the
hadales. M. a
r Behm, who
departure of M
during four &
in 1784. We
Kaborof, who
Jeter and St,
ant and a de-
This officer
id politenefs;
of his detach-
re at our dif-
1e to fend an
off-Ougrenin,
through this
> be. He in-
within a few
: days
2787.| ROUND THE WORLD. 119
days to St. Peter and St. Paul, and probably was
already on the road; adding that this journey was a
much more confiderable expedition than we could
imagine, as the feafon did not admit of going in a
fledge, and it was abfolutely neceflüry to perform it
partly on foot and partly in canoes, up the rivers of
Awaticha and Bolchertték.
M. Kaborof offered, at the fame time, to fend a cof-
{ack to carry my difpatches to M. Kafloft, of whom
he fpoke with an enthufiafm and a fatisfaction, in
which we could not but participate. He was conti-
nually rejoicing that we fhould have occafion to com-
municate and treat witha gentleman, whofe educa-
tion, manners, and knowledge, were equal to thofe :
of any officer in the Ruffian empire, or even any
other nation. M. de Leffeps, our young interpreter,
fpoke the Ruffian language with as much facility as
his native tongue. He tranflated the converfation of
the lieutenant, and in that language wrote a letter
} in my name to the Governor of Okhotfk, to whom
1 alfo wrote in French. I obferved to him, that the
third voyage of Captain Cook having publifhed to all
the world the hofpitality of the government of Kamt-
{chatka, I flattered myfelf with meeting the fame re-
ception as the Englifh navigators, the objeét of our
voyage being, like theirs, the general utility of all
maritime nations. M, Kafloff’s anfwer could not ar-
rive in lefs than five or fix days ; and our good lieu-
tenant told us, he only anticipated the orders of that
officer and the Emprefs of Ruffia, by defiring us to
| confider ourfelyes as in our own country, and to dif-
| pofe freely of every thing the placc afforded. His
countenance, his expreffions, and his manners, evin-
| ced, that had he the power miraculoufly to change
the face of Nature, thefe barren mountains and un-
4 drained märfhes would have been converted into re-
| gions of enchantment and felicity.
A report was fpread, that M, Kafloff had no latter
I4 or
120 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
for us, but that the former Governor of Kamtfchatka,
Mr. Steinheil, whom M. Schmaleff preceded as cap.
tain-ifpravenik, ov infpeétor of the Kamtfchadales,and |
who refided at Verkhnei-Kamtfchatka, might have
fome ; and immediately on this fimple rumour, which
appeared almost deftitute of probability, he fent off an
exprefs, who had to go above 150 leagues on foot,
M. Kafloff knew how defirous we were to receive
letters, M. de Lefleps having communicated to him
our concern that no packet addreffed to us had ar-
rived at St. Peter and St. Paul. He appeared equally
afflicted wiih ourfelves, and exprefled fo much fo.
licitude and care, that he féemed almoft to fay he
would go himfelf to Europe to feek our letters, if
there were any hopes of finding us again at hisre.
turn. The ferjeant and all the foldiers fhewed the
fame anxicty to ferve'us; and Mrs. Kaborof behaved
to us with the moft engaging politenefs. Her houfe
was open to us at all hours of the day, and tea and |
every refrefhment the country afforded were of.
fered us. Every one was defirous to make us pre-
fents ; and, notwithftanding the rule we had efta-
blifhed of not accepting any, we could not refift the |
preffing folicitations of Mrs. Kaborof, who obliged
our officers as well as M. de Langle and myfelf, toac- 1
cept fome fkins of fables, rein-deer, and foxes, though |
far more ufeful to thofe who prefented them than ta li
us, who were about to return towards the tropics. | 7
Fortunately we had the means of. difcharging the
obligation, and we urgently folicited permiffion to
offer, in our turn, fuch articles as could not be found
at Kamtichatka. If, however, ours were richer than
our hoft’s, it was impoflible for our manners to ex-
hibit that unaffeéted and engaging kindnefs, which
furpaties every kind of gift. i
I exprefled to M. Kaborof, through M. de Lef-
feps, that I wifhed to form a little eftablifhment on
ee
ie, oe eee Sewer Fey ae
SA ean G4 TT leas apenas oe
fhore, to lodge our aftronomers, and place a aac E
and =
[1787.
amtfchatka,
ded as cap-
ight have
fent off an
hes on foot,
> to receive
ated to him
> us had ar.
ared equally
o much fo-
ftto fay he
w letters, if &
in at his re.
fhewed the
prof behaved
id were of:
nake us pre-
we had efta-
not refift the |
who obliged |}
myfelf, toac- M
foxes, though M
them thanto |
the tropics.
charging the
ermiflion to
not be found
re richer than
anners tO eX
dnefs, which
1 M. de Lef:
blifhment on
ce a quadrant
and
hadales,and |
nour, which |
, Her houfe |
and tea and |
1787. ] ROUND THE WORLD. 121
and pendulum. The moft commodious houfe in the
village was immediately offered us, and not vifiting
it till fome hours after this requeft, we thought we
might accept it without impropriety, as it appeared
uninhabited; but we learned afterwards that the
lieutenant had difplaced the corporal, his fecre-
tary, who was the third perfon in rank in the coun-
try, to make room for us. The Ruffian difcipline
is fuch, that their movements are performed with
as much promptitude as the evolutions of military
exercife, and are only ordered by a motion of the
Scarcely had aur aftronomers erected their obfer-
vatory, before our naturalifts, who were no lefs affi-
duous and zealous in their purfuits, were defirous of
making an excurfion to the volcano, whofe diftance
appeared to be lefs than two leagues, although it
was at leaft eight to the foot of the mountain, which
was almoft entirely covered with fnow, and at the
fummit of which was the crater. The mouth, which
was turned toward Awatfcha, continually threw out
volumes of fmoke; and only once during the night,
we faw bluifh and yellow flames, which, however,
rofe but to a very inconfiderable height.
The zeal of M. Kaborof was equally ardent for our
naturalifts as for our aftronomers. Eight coffacks were
immediately ordered to accompany Mefirs, Bernizet
Mongés and Receveur. The health of M. Lamanon
was not yet fufficiently re-eftablifhed to participate in
fuch an expedition. Never, perhaps, was fo arduous
an enterprize undertaken for the advancement of the
{ciences; and none of the learned men, Englith,
Germans, or Ruffians, who had been at Kamtfchatka,
had attempted fo difficult an enterprize. The mere
afpect of the mountain led me to believe it inaccef-
fible. We perceived no verdure whatever, and its
fides were extremely fteep. Our intrepid adventurers,
hawever, fet off with the hope of vanquifhing all thefe
difficulties,
123 LA PEROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787,
difficulties.’ The coflacs were charged with their
baggage, which confifted of a tent, variour furs, and
provifions for each of them during four days, The
honour of carrying the barometers, thermometers,
the acids, and other articles for making obfervations,
was referved for the naturalifts themfelves, who dared
not confide thefe fragil infiruments to any other
bands. ‘Their guides were only to conduct them to :
the foot of the mountain; a prejudice, almoft as an-
cient as. Kamtfchatka itfelf, prevailing among the
Kamtfchadales and the Ruffians, that the vapours pro-
ceeding from the mountain mutt inevitably fuffocate
all who are:rafh enough to afcend it. They hoped,
na doubt, that our naturalifts would, like them, fiop
at the foot of the mountain ; a few glafles of brandy
given them before they fet out having’ probably ex-
cited in’ them this tender intcreft in their fafety,
and made them fet off with much gaicty in this idea,
Their firft halting place was in the midft -of the
woods, fix leagues fram the harbour of St. Peter and
St. Paul. Till then they had travelled over a tole-
rably eafy ground, covered with plants and trees, of
which the greater number were of the birch kind,
The fir treesithey met with were ftunted, and al.
moft dwarfs..: One of thefe fpecics bears cones, of
which the fmall nuts are good toeat ; and from the
bark of the birch flows a very wholefome and agree-
able beverage, which the Kamttchadales carefully re-
ceive in veflels, of which they drink great quanti-
ties. Berries of all kinds; and of every fhade of red
and black, offered themfelves at every ftep to our
travellers. Their tafte was generally rather acid, but
with fugar they are very agreeable to the palate.
At fun-fet the tent was pitched, the fine lighted,
and every thing prepared for pafling the night with
‘a difpatch unknown to the luxurious inhabitants of
towns and cities. They took the greateft precau-
tions that the fire fhould mot communicate to the
; trees
1787,
their
s, and
The
eters,
tions,
dared
other
em to :
as an-
g the
8 pro-
ocate
oped,
, top
brandy
ply ex-
fafety,
s idea,
of the
er and
a tole-
ees, of
| kind,
and al.
ies, of
ym the
agree-
lly re-
juanti-
of red
to our
id, but
e.
ghted,
it with
ants of
yrecau -
to the
trees
1787] ROUND THE WORLD, 124
trees of the foreft. . So grent a misfortune could
not be expiated by a few ftripes befiowed on the
backs of the coflacks, becaufe fire puts all the fables
to flight, and after fuch an accident, no more are
to be found during the whole Winter. This is
the feafon for hunting thefe animals, whofe fkin
conftitutes the whole riches of the country. It is
given in exchange for all the commodities Xt have
occafion to purchafe, and muft alfo pay the balance
of their annual tribute to the imperial treafury. That
crime, therefore, muft be enormous, which would
deprive the Kamtfchadales of all thefe adyazitayes.
Accordingly the coflicks took the preatcft pains to
cut down the grais round the fire, ad stig a decp
hole before their departure to bury the afhes, which
they extinguifhed by covering them with carth,
moiftened with a great quantity of water. During:
this day's journey, the only quadruped they faw was
a hare, which was almoft white. They taw neither
bears, argali (mountain-fheep) nor reir -dozr, though
thefe animals are very common in that couniry,
The next morning at day-break they continued their
journcy.
A great quantity of fnow fell during the night,
and, which was ftill worfe, a thick fog covered tue
yolcanic mountain, at the foot of which ou: waturea-
lifts did not arrive till three in the afternoon. ‘ihcir
guides flopped, accordiug to their agrecinent, as
foon as they arrived at the confines of vegctation,
pitched their tents, and lighted a fire, This mghi’s
reit was highly neceflary previous to wadertaking
the fatigues of the following day. Meflrs. Berni-
zet, Mongès, and Receveur, begsn to afcend the
mountain at fix o’clock in the morning, and did not
fiop till three in the afternoon, when they arrived at
the edge of the crater, but av its lower part; having
been freyuently culiged to fupport- themfelves with
their hands among thefe broken rocks, between which
were
124 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787.
were very dangerous precipices. All the fubftances of
which this mountain is compofed are lavas more or
lefs porous, and almoft in the ftate of pumice ftone,
On the fiunmit they met with gypfeous fubftances
and chryftallizations of fulphur, though much lef
beautiful than thofe of the peak of Teneriffe. In
general the fhorls and all the other ftones appeared
inferior in beauty to thofe of this ancient volcano,
which has not produced an eruption during the lafi
century ; whereas that of Karitfchatka threw out fub-
ftances in 1778, during the ftay of Captain Clerke in
the bay of Awatfcha. However they brought away
fome pretty fine fpecimens of chryfolite, though they
met with much bad weather, and traverfed fuch dif-
ficult roads, that it is aftonifhing they were able to
carry additional wejghts, befides their barometers,
thermometers, and other infiruments. Their view
never extended beyond a mufket-fhot except during
a few minutes, when they perceived the bay of Awatt-
cha, and our fhips, which from that elevation ap-
peared of lefs magnitude than fmall canoes. Their
barometer fell at the edge of the crater to 19 inches,
11 lines, and ,%, while ours, on board our fhips,
where we made obfervations every hour, was at the
fame time at 27 inches, 0 lines, 7. Their thermo-
meter was 23 below the freezing point, and differed
12 degrees from the temperature at the water fide.
Thus, admitting the calculation of thofe natural phi-
lofophers who rely on this method of meafuring the
height of mountains, with correfponding allowances
for the ftate of the thermometer, our adventurers
muft have afcended about 1500 toifes above the level
of the fea* ; a moft prodigious height, confidering
the difficulties they had to encounter. : But they
were fo embarrafled by the fogs, that they determin-
ed to renew their vifit the next day if the weather
was more favourable, for the difficulties they had en-
countered only encreafed their zeal, and they de-
* See the note on vol, i, page 15.—French Editor.
fcended
enh Er ‘4
= ere
[1787.
bftances of
as more or
nice ftone,
fubftances
much lefs
ieriffé. In
Ps appeared
t volcano,
ng the lafi
w out fub-
n Clerke in
ught away
ough they
ed fuch dif-
ere able to
arometers,
‘heir view
ept during
y of Awatf-
evation ap:
ves. Their
> 19 inches,
our fhips,
was at the
eir thermo-
ind differed
water fide.
natural phi-
afuring the
allowances
adventurers
ve the level
confidering
\ But they
y determin-
the weather
hey had en-
d they de-
Editor.
{cended
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD, 125
{cended the mountain, and returned to their tents
full of this courageous refolution. The night was
then drawing in, and their guides had already been
offering up their prayers for their fouls, and began
to drink the liquors which they confidered as ufelefs
to the dead. The licutenant being informed of this
precipitation, at their return ordered 100 ftripes to
be infliéted on the moft culpable, which they recciv-
ed before we were apprifed of it, or had an opportu-
nity of interceding for their pardon. The night that
followed this journey was tremendous; the fall of
fnow redoubled, and in a few hours was feveral feet
deep. It was therefore impoffible to attempt execut-
ing their intended plan, and they arrived the fame
evening at the village of St. Peter and St. Paul, after
a journey of eight leagues, which on their return was
lefs fatiguing from the natural declivity of the ground.
While our mineralogifts and aftronomers fo well
employed their time, we filled our cafks with water,
our hold with wood, and cut and dried hay for the
live ftock we expected; for we had only a fingle
fheep remaining. The lieutenant had written to M.
Kafloff, requefting him to collect as much cattle
as poffible, for he calculated with grief, that it would
be impoffible for us to vait for thofe which the gover-
nor had doubtlefs ordered to be brought from Verkh-
nei, and which would require fix weeks to arrive.
The indifference of the inhabitants of Kamtfchat-
ka towards their flocks has retarded their increafe in
the fouthern part of this peninfula, or with care
they would foon equal Ireland in number. The
fineft thick grafs grows in natural meadows to the
height of more than four feet, and immenfe quanti-
ties of forage might thence be got in againft the
winter, which in this climate lafts two or three
months. But the Kamtfchadales are incapable of
fuch care; barns and immenfe ftables, fheltered
from the cold, would then become neceflary, and it
appears
126 LA BÉROUSE’S VOYAGE (1785.
appears to them more convenient to live on the pro:
duce of the chace, and particularly on falmon, which
comes every ycar like the marina in the defart, at
the fame feafon, to load their nets and fecure their
annual fubfifténce. The Coflacks and Ruffians,
more foldiers than hufbandmen, have adopted the
fame mode. The lieutenant and ferjeant alone had
little gardens, planted with potatoes and turnips:
their-exhortation and example could have no influ-
ence on the reft of their fellow-countrymen, who
were byno means averfe to partake with them, but
who would not, to have them of their own, take
any other trouble than to gather them, had nature [7
fpontaneoufly offered them in the fields, like faranne, BS
garlick, and particularly bay-berries, of which they
make a pleafant drink, and fweetmeats which they |
keep for the winter. Our European feeds were in
a very good ftate of prefervation, of which we gave #
a great quantity to the lieutenant and ferjeant, hop-
to hear one day that they had completely fucceeded
in rearing them. In the midft of all our labours we
had yet time for diverfions, and made different hunt-
ing parties on the rivers Awatfcha and Paratourka, D
for our ambition was to kill bears, rein-decr, or ar- |
gali, though frequently obliged to be contented with J
a few ducks or teal, which were not worth our long
and arduous excurfions. Our friends the Kamit.
chadales made us more happy, bringing, during
LE our ftay, four bears, an argali, and a rem-deer, with
iia fuch a quantity of divers and puffins, that we
diftributed them among the whole crew, who were
already tired of fifh. One caft of the net which
we made near our frigates, would have been futh-
cient for the fupport of fix fhips: but the kinds of
fifh were not much varied, confifting chiefly in fmall
cod, herring, plaice and falmon. I ordered a few
barrels only to be falted down, as I was informed
that all the fifh were fo fmall and tender, that es
coule
ARS
[1787.
the pro:
on, which
defart, at
ure their
Ruffians,
opted the
alone had
turnips :
no influ-
en, who
them, but
pwn, take
ad nature
te faranne,
hich they
vhich they
s were in
h we gave
ant, hop-
fucceeded
abours we
rent hunt-
aratounka,
scr, Or ar-
ented with
1 our long
re Kamit.
g, during
deer, with
, that we
who were
net which
been futh-
e kinds of
ly in fmall
red a few
> informed
, that they
could
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 127
could not refift the corrofive aétivity of the falt,
which it would be better to keep for the pigs we
fhould meet with in the iflands of the South Sea.
While we paffed a few days, which feemed fo plea-
fant after the fatigues we had undergone of making
difcoveries on the coafts of Oku-Jeffo and Tartary,
M. Kafloff fet off for the harbour o St. Peter and St.
Paul, but he travelled flowly fron. a with to obferve
every thing, the object of his miffion being for the
eftablifhment of the beft adminiftration poffible in
this province, knowing that no general plan could
be formed to this effect without examining into the
produce of the country, and what a careful and
proper cultivation congenial to the climate renders
it fufceptible of. He likewife wifhed to examine the
fiones, minerals, and all the fubftances of the foil of
the province gencrally. His obfervations detained
him fome days at the hot fprings, twenty Icagues
from St. Peter and St. Paul, from whence he brought
different kinds of ftones and other volcanic matters,
with a gum which he gave to M. Monges to be ana-
lyfed: he frankly faid on his arrrival,’that having
been apprized by the public prints that feveral able
naturalifts had been embarked on board our frigates,
he had a defire to take advantage of fo fortunate a
circumftance, to make himfelf acquainted with the
different fubftances of the peninfula of Kamtfchatka
from his own obfervation. The politenefs and man-
ners of M. Kafloff were abfolutely thofe of the be&
educated inhabitants of the firft cities of Europe;
he {poke French and knew fomething of all the ob-
jects of our refearches, as well in geography as na-
tural hifiory : we were furprifed to find an officer
whofe merit would have diftinguifhed him in all the
nations of Europe, placed in a favage country, at the
remoteft part of the world. a
It is eafy to conceive that the ties of intimacy
muft foon be formed between Colonel Kafloff and
us.
: Jearnt from him that no courier had been received
aéted on different principles, and that he only regret
‘ te
128 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787,
us. The day after he arrived, he came to dine on
board my fhip, together with M. Schmaleff and
the vicar of Paratounka. I gave him a falute of
thirteen guns. Our countenances, that befpoke a
greater degree of health than even what we enjoyed | \
at our departure from Europe, extremely furprifed § t
him. I told him we were partly indebted to it forou | v
own care, and much more to the abundance in which a
we lived in his government. M. Kafloff feemed to - a
partake of the happinefs of our fituation ; but evince [a h
ed the moft fenfible pain in the impoffibility of get- | li
ting more than feven oxen before the time fixed upon BS fk
for our taking leave, which was tvo near at hand to d
think of procuring them from the river of Kamtf à bi
chatka, which was more than a hundred leagues dif- | b]
tant from St. Peter and St. Paul. He had now been | at
fix months in expectation of the fhip which was to 2 th
bring corn and other neceffaries to the garrifon of | th
this province from Okhotfk, and he prefumed with 2 T
grief that fome accident had happened to it: our .
iurprife at having no letters diminifhed, when we
fince he left Okhotfk, adding that he was going to [7%
return thither by land, keeping along the coaft to |
Okhotik, a journey almoft as long, or at any rate more
difficult than that from Okhotfk to Peterfburgh.
On the morrow the governor and all his /wite din-
ed on board the Aftrolabe, when he was likewife fa-
luted with the fame number of guns, but he fer-
vently befeeched us to ftand no more upon compli-
ment, that we might in future fee each other with
greater freedom and pleafure. 1
It was not in our power to make the governor
take the price of the bullocks ; in vain we reprefent-
ed that at Manilla, notwithftanding our clofe alliance
with Spain, we had paid the whole of our expences,
M. Kafloff telling us that the Ruffian government
[1787,
o dine on
aleff and
falute of
befpoke a
e enjoyed
- furprifed
it for our
= in which
feemed to
but evinc-
ity of get-
ixed upon
t hand to
of Kamtf-
agues dif-
now been
ch was to
garrifon of
med with
to it: our .
when we
n received
s going to
e coaft to
y rate more
burgh.
s fuite din-
ikewife fa-
ut he fer-
yn compli-
other with
eg governor
> reprefent-
ofe alliance
r expences,
rovernment
only regret-
ted
1786.] ROUND THE WORLD, _ 129
ted having fo few beafts at his difpofal. . He invited,
us the following day to a ball, which he:gave on our
account’ to all the Kamtfchadale as well as Ruffian
women at St. Peter and St. Paul. If the affembly.
was not numerous, it was at leaft. extraordinary :
thirteen females, cloathed in filk ftuff, ten of whom
were Kamtfchadales, with broad faces, little eyes,
and flat nofes, were feated on benches round the
apartment, who as well as the Ruffians bad filk
handkerchiefs boynd round their heads, fomething
like the Mulatto women in our colonies: but the
fketches of M. Duché will give a better idea of their
dreffes than I can poffibly do by defcription. .The
ball was opened by Ruffian dances, to very agreea-
ble airs, which were not unlike the Coffack danced
at Paris a few years ago. ‘The Kamtfehadale dances
then fucceeded, which can only be compared tothofeof:
the convulfionnaires, at the famous tomb of St. Medard,
| The only requifites for a dancer in this part of Afia
are arms, fhoulders, and hardly any legs; the Kamt-
fchadales, by their convulfed and contracted move-
ments, infpiring all the fpeétators with a moft pain-
ful fenfation, which is excited in a ftill greater de-
gree by the doleful cry which iffues from the ca-
vity of the throat of thofe dancing, and which is the
only mufic they have for keeping time with their
| movements. Their fatigue during this kind of ex-
ercife is fuch, that they are moft difguftingly covered
| with fweat, and lie extended on the ground without
| being able to get up again of themfelves. The abun-
| dant exhalations which their. body emits, perfumes
| the apartment with a fmell of oil and fifh, to which
| European noftrils are too ttle accuftomed to know
| the fweets of. The dances being always imitative,
[and in fome refpeét only pantomimes, .I afked what
two women in particular-meant to exprefs by fo vio-
| lent an exercife? I was told it was a reprefentation
Voz. II. K of
130 . LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE | 1787.
of a bear-hunt ; the woman who rolled about on the
pons being the animal, and her that run round
er the huntfman : but could the bears fpeak, and be
fpetators of fuch a pantomine, they would have
great reafon to complain of fo ftupid an imitation.
This dance, equally fatiguing to the dancers and
lookers on, was hardly finifhed, when a joyful fhout
announced the arrival of a courier from Okhotik,
charged with a great box full of letters for us. The
ED tate ee es
ball: was interrupted, and each dancer fent away with
a glafs of brañdy, a refrefhment worthy of thefe 1
Terpfichores. M. Kafloff perceiving our impatience
for learning news, in which we were all interefted,
from Europe, earneftly intreated us not to defer that à
pleafure. He put us into his own room and retired, <
that he might not check the effufion of the dif ag D
ferent fenfations which might affect us, accord- @ te
ing to the accounts each might receive from his | I
family or friends... They were happy for all, but par-
ticularly fo for me, who had been promifed, by a fa- |
vour to which I could never have afpired, the rank
of commodore. The congratulations which every
one was cager to make foon came to the ears of M. [7
Kafloff, who infifted on celebrating this event by a |
none of the whole of his artillery: never while! Gay ,
live fhall I forget the tokens of friendfhip and regard (ae 4)
I received from him on this occafion. I did not pas 7% :
a moment in his company which was not marked by (7
fome traits of kindnefs or attention ; and it were ufe-
lefs to fay, that from the time of his arrival: all the in-
habitants of the country hunted and fifhed for us
alone, who could not near confume the quantity of
rovifions. ‘To this he added every kind of prefent 7
e could think of for M. Langle and myfelf; he PS
compelled us to accept a Kamtfchadale fledge for |
the King’s colleGion of curiofities, and two royal
eagles for the menagerie, belides feveräl fables. W
in our turn offercd him whatever we could ae
tha
| 1787.
mut on the
un. round
ak, and be
ould have
itation.
incers and
yful fhout
à, Okhotik,
y us. The
away with
ry of thefe
impatience
| interefted,
> defer that
and retired,
of the dif-
us, accord- 7%
ve from his
all, but par-
ed, the rank
which every
ot marked by
d it were ufe-
val all the in-
fifhed for us
e quantity of
nd of prefent
ind two royal
il fables. We
ould think of
that
fed, by afa- |
e ears of M. h
| event by 2 |
never while! (3%
ip and regard |
I did not pafs 7
1787.| ROUND THE WORLD. 131
that would be either ufeful or agreeable, but we
were rich alone in what regarded barter with the
favages, and had nothing worthy his acceptance,
We begged him to accept the account of Cooke’s
third voyage, which feemed to be a great fatisfac-
tion to him, having in his retinue almoft all the
rfonages which the editor had introduced, M.
Schmaleff, the worthy vicar of Paratounka, and the
unfortunate Ivafchkin; he tranflated every thing
which related to them, who repeated at each time
that all was told with the ftricteft regard to truth.
The ferjeant alone, who at that time commanded at
St. Peter and St. Paul, was dead. The others were
in the beft ftate of health, and refided fiill in the
country, except Major Behm, who had returned to
Peterfburgh, and Port, who refided at Irkoutik. 1
teftified to M. Kafloff my turprife at finding the old
Ivafchkin at Kamtfchatka, the Englifh accounts giv-
ing out that he had at laft got leave to go and refide
at Okhotsk. We could not but take the moft live:
ly concern at this unfortunate man’s fate, whofe only
fault confifted in fome indiféréet obfervations on the
Emprefs Elizabeth, at getting up from a party at
table, where the wine had overpowered his reafon, at
a time when under twenty years of age, an officer iff
the guards of a diftinguifhed family in Ruffia, and
amiable deportment, which neither time nor misfor-
B tunes could change: he was degraded and banifhed
into the wilds of Kamtfchatka, after having received
the knout, and had his noftrils flit. Thé Emiprefs
Catherine, whofe kindnefs extended even to viétims
| of the preceding reign, pardoned this urifortunate
man many years ago: but an abode of more thar’ 56
years in the vaft forefts of Kamtfchatka, the bitter ré-
| membrance of the difgraceful punifhment he under-
went, and: a fecret fentiment of hatred, perhaps, of
an authority which could fo cruelly puniflt a fault,
the circumftances of which might be pleaded in- ex-
K?° tenuation ;
132 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
tenuation ; thefe feveral motives rendered him infen- |
fible to this tardy aé of juftice, and he propofed go- ;
ing to Siberia to die there. We begged him to ac- y
cept of fome tobacco, powder, lead, cloth, and ge- à.
ncrally fpeaking every thing which we thought might
be of ufe to him. He was brought up at Paris, the £
language of which he had fome recollection of, and tl
was at no lofs for words to exprefs his gratitude to 0
us. M. Kafloff he loved as a father, accompanying tc
him in his voyage through affection, and the good | ny
hearted governor had a regard for him, which fo Pl
operated on his mind, as to make him forget his Wi
misfortunes*. He was fo kind as to point out to us th
. the tomb of M. de la Croyére, (whom he had feen tt
interred at Kamtfchatka in 1741) on which we placed W
the following infcription, cut in brafs, the compofi- 8
tion of M. Dagelet, who was, like himfelf, a member
ve
of the Academy of Sciences. |
‘ Here lies Louis, de l’Ifle de la Croyère, Member | th
“ of the Royal Academy of Sciences at Paris, who
‘ died in 1741, on his return from an expedition un-
“ dertaken by order of the Czar to explore the coafts
‘ of America: aftronomer and geographer, the rival
‘ competitor of two brothers, famous in thofefciences,
“he merited the lamentations of his country. In
‘1786 the Count de la Péroufe, commanding the
* The remembrance and difgrace of an unjuft punifhment fo
worked on the unhappy Ivafchkin, as to determine him to hide
himfelf from the eyes of ftrangers, and it was not for a week after
the two op came in that Leffeps could find him out. This in-
terpreter, feeling for his fituation, made La Péroufe acquainted 1
with it, who, admiring the charaéter of an old man whofe misfor- ESS
tunes he refpected, begged to fee him, which he only fucceeded in
by the power Colonel Kafloff had over his. mind inducing him to
quithisretreat. The agreeable difpofition of La Péroufe foon infpir-
ed Ivafchkin with the greateft confidence, who, always thankful for
the favours he rerelvei, gave ftill more lively teftimonies of his gra-
titude, when the French commodore made him ufeful prefents, of
which he was really in the moft abfolute want.
This faé&, which Leffeps has feveral times informed me of, could
not be omitted here, —French Editor. ;
Majefty’s
[1787.
im infen-
pofed go-
im to ac-
, and ge-
bht might
Paris, the
bn. of, and
atitude to
mpanying
the good
which fo
forget his
out to us
had feen
we placed
e compofi-
a member
\
e, Member
Paris, who
edition un-
> the coafts
r, thé rival
ofefciences,
untry. In
anding the
punifhment fo
e him to hide
ra week after
out. This in-
ife acquainted
whofe misfor-
y fucceeded in
ducing him to
afe foon infpir-
ys thankful for
nies of his gra-
ul prefents, of
d me of, could xg
Majefty’s ‘
1787] ROUND THE WORLD. 133
“ King’s frigates the Bouffole and Aftrolabe, con-
“ fecrated his memory, by giving his name to an.
s jfland near the places this learned man had vifited.”
We likewife afked M. Kafloff’s permiffion to en-
grave on’a:plate of the fame metal an infeription on
the tomb of Captain Clerke, which was only pencilled
on wood, too perifhable a fubftance to commemorate
to perpetuity fo eflimable a navigator. The gover-
nor had the kindnefs, in addition to his leave, to.
promife to raife without delay a monument more
worthy of thefe two celebrated men, who fell under
their laborious exertions, far diftant from their na-
tive country. From him we learnt that La Croyére
was married at ‘Tobolik, where his polterity refides in.
great refpect, | ye
The hiftory of Behring’s and Captain Tfchirikow’s,
voyages were well known to M. Kafloff, who told us.
that M. Billings was on that account left at Okhotfk,..
charged by the ftate with the conftruétion of two.
fhips to continue the difcoveries of the Ruffians in:
the: North Sea. He had given orders that every
poflible means fhould be ufed for the acceleration of
that expedition ; but his zeal, good. will, and anxiety,
to fulfil the views of the Emprefs, could not over-
come the obftacles which he muft meet with in a
country as wild as on the firft day of its difcovery,
and in which the rigour of the climate fufpends all
work during more than eight months of the year.
He conceived it would have been better ceconomy,
and much more fpeedy, to fend M. Billings to fome
port in the Baltic, where all his wants might be fup-
plied for many years to come.
We took a plan of the bay of Awatfcha, or ftriétly
fpeaking, we verified that of the Englith, which is
very accurate, and from which M. Bernizet made a.
moft elegant drawing, which he begged the gover-
nor’s acceptance of. M. Blondela-offered him alfo
à copy of ‘the view of the ofrog, or town, and the
K 3 Abbés
134 LA PEROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787.
Abbés Mongès and Receveur made him a prefent of
a fmall box of acids to analyfe the waters, and gain
a knowledge of the different fubftances of which the
foil of Kamtfchatka is compofed, Chemiftry and
mineralogy were fciences not unknown to M. Kaf-
loff; he had a particular turn for chemical labours,
but he informed us of what, from the evidence of
reafon, it is eafy to conceive, that in an uncultivated
country, before troubling itfelf about minerals, the
firft care of a wife and enlightened adminiftration
muft tend towards procuring bread for its inhabitants
by accuftoming the ied 2 to cultivation. The ve-
getation of the land befpoke its great fertility, and
he had no doubt but that inftead of wheat, which
would not thrive on account of the cold, they fhould
- have abundant harvefts both of barley and rye. He
made us take notice of the delightfu Te of
many little fields of potatoes, the feeds of which came
from Irkoutfk many years ago, and he propofed
adopting certain gentle methods to: make the Ruf-
fians, Coflacks, and Kamtfchadales till the ground,
The fmall pox in 1769 took off three fourths of
its whole inhabitants, which is at the prefent day re-
duced throughout the whole peniniuia to Icfs than
4000 natives, which will foon difappear entirely, by
the frequent intermarriages of the Ruffians and
Kamtfchadales, A mongrel race, more laborious
than the Rufñlians, who are good for nothing but fol-
diers, much ftronger, and in form lefs degrading
to nature than that of the Kamtfchadales, will be
the produce of them, and fucceed the old inhabi-
tants.. The natives have already abandaned the holes
in which they buried themfelves, like badgers, the
whole winter, and where they inhaled an ‘infectious
air which brought on many difeafes. The richer
part of them now build #/bas, or log-houfes, after
the Ruffian manner; their form is exaétly that
of our pcafänts’ cottages, divided into three fmall
| | ; rooms ;
[1787.
pie of
| in
ic the
try and
. Kaf-
labours,
nce of
iltivated
als, the
iftration
abitants
The ve-
ty, and
» which
y fhould
ve. He
rance of
ch came
propofed
he Ruf-
‘ound,
urths of
t day re-
efs than
irely, by
ans and
laborious
+ but fol-
egrading
will be
| inhabi-
the holes
rers, the
nfectious
e richer
fes, after
tly that
ee {mall
TOONS ;
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 135
rooms; a brick ftove warms them, and keeps up a
heat of more than 30 degrees, which is infupport-
able to perfons not accuftomed to it. The others
pafs their winter, like fummer, in balagans, which
are a kind of pigeon-houfes, of wood, covered with
thatch, elevated on poles twelve or thirteen feet high,
where the women as well as the men have to climb
up very fteep ladders. But the latter fort of houfes
will foon difappear, the Kamtfchadales being of an
imitative mind, adopting almoft all the cuftoms of
their conquerors. The women are already coifed,
and almoft entirely cloathed in the Ruffian manner,
whofe language prevails in all the oftrogs, which is
very pleafant, each Kamtfchadale village having be-
fore fpoke a different jargon, the inhabitants of
one hamlet not underflanding thofe who refided in
the neighbouring one. To the praife of the Ruffians
it may be faid, that notwithftanding they have efta-
blifhed a defpotic government in thefe rugged cli-
mates, it is tempered by principles of fuch.gentle-
nefs and equity, that no inconveniences are felt from
it. The Ruffians have no atrocity to reproach them-
felves with, like the Eng'ifh at Bengal, or the Spa-
niards at Peru and Mexico. The impoft raifed on
thefe Kamtfehadales is fo light, that it can only be
confidered as a tribute of gratitude, the produce
of half a day’s ehace paying it for a whole year. It is
furprifing to fee in thefe huts, more miferable to look
at than the poorcft cottage in the mountainous part
of our country, a circulation of pieces which appear
fo much the more confiderable, as exifting only
among a fmall number of the inhabitants ;‘ they con-
fume fo little of the produce of Ruffia and China,
that the balance of trade is abfolutely in their fa-
vour, and they muft neceflarily receive the excefs
due to them in roubles. Skins are much higher at
Kamtfchatka than Canton; which proves that hi-
therto the markets of Kiatcha have not felt the advan-
K 4 tages
136 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787;
tages of the new opportunity for the difpofal of wares
which is opened in China, the Chinefe merchants
doubtlefs having fufficient addrefs to draw away thefe
furs in dn infenfible manner, and thus gain immenfe
wealth ; for at Macao they bought of us for the mo-
derate price of ten piaftres, what at Pekin is,worth a
hundred and twenty. An otter fkin fells at St. Peter
and St. Paul for 30 roubles; that of a fable for threc
or four, but the price of a fox fkin cannot be fixed :
¥-do not fpeak of the black foxes, which are too rare
‘ to be countedon,and are fold at upwards of a hundred
roubles: The white and grey vary from two to twen-
ty roubles, according as they approach in colour to
the black or brown: thefe laft only differ from thofe
of France in the foftnefs or thicknefs of their fkin.
The Englifh, who by the happy conftitution of
their company, may give the private commerce of In-
dia all the aétivity it is fufceptible of, fent laft year
a fmall veflel-to Kamtfchatka ; it was fitted out by a
Bengal houfe, and commanded by Captain Peters,
who tranfmitted to Colonel Kafloff a letter, written
in French, of which he gave me a reading; defiring,
in the clofe alliance between the two crowns in Eu-
rope, permiffion to trade to Kamtfchatka, by carry-
ing there the different produce of India and China,
as well in ftuffs as fugar, tea, and arrack, and receiv-
ing payment in the furs of the country. M. Kafloff
was too much enlightened not at once to perceive
that. this propofition would be very ruinous to the
commerce of Ruffia, which advantageoufly, fold the
fame things to the Kamtfchadales, which advan-
tage was ftill greater on the fkins the Englith wanted
for exportation: but he knew at the fame time that
certain limited permits had fometimes been given, to
the detriment of the metropolis, for the increafe of a
colony, which might afterwards enrich the mother
country, when it became old enough to be no longer
in want of foreign trade: thefe confiderations bit
yente
[1787;
of wares
rchants
ay thefe
menfe
he mo-
orth a
t. Peter
or threc
> fixed :
too rare
undred
Oo twen-
blour to
m thofe
fkin.
ation of
re of In-
aft year
ut by a
Peters,
written
lefiring,
yin Eu-
| carry-
China,
| receiv-
. Kafloff
perceive
s to the
fold the
advan-
wanted
ime that
riven, to
cafe of a
mother
o longer
ns pre-
yented
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. : 137
vented M. Kafloff’s decifion of the queftion, and he
permitted the Englith to lay this propofition ‘before
the court of Peterfburgh, aware that fhould this
requeft be granted, the confumption of Chinefe and
Indian commoditics was too fmall, and too advanta-
geous a market for fkins was opcned at Kiatcha ever
to let the Bengal merchants purfue this fpeculation
with profit. Befides, the veflel which brought this
commercial propofition was wrecked a few days after
its departure from the bay of Awatfcha, on Copper
Ifland, and only two men faved, with whom I
converfed, and furnifhed with cloaths, which the
ftood in the greateft need of: fo that Captain Cook's
fhips and ours were the only ones that had hitherto
vifited this part of Afia without accident.
I fhould not be juftificd in witholding from the
reader fome more particulars relating to Kamtfchat-
ka, if the works of Coxe.and Steller left any thing to
be wifhed for*. ‘The editor of Captain Cook’s third
voyage has drained thefe fources, and in an intereft-
ing manner recapitulated all that relates to this coun-
try, on which much more has already been written
than on many of the interior provinces of Europe,
the climate and produce of which may and muft be
compared to the coaft of Labrador, about the ftraits
of Belle-Ifle, but the men, like the animals, are very
different. The Kamtfchadales appeared to me to be
the fame people as thofe of the Bay de Caftries, on the
coaft of Tartary ; their gentlenefs and probity is the
fame, and their phyfical form very little different :
they fhould therefore no more be compared to the
Efquimaux, than fables to the marten of Canada,
The bay of Awatfcha is certainly the fineft,
moft commodious, and fafeft that can poffibly be
* Some very interefting details, which deferve to be joined to
thofe of Coxe and Steller, have been furnifhed us by Leffeps, in his
ren travels from Kamtfchatka to France, See the end of
vol, ii, é
met
Potev and Sti Pati it
land; which, like an artificial: pe a
the village a little harbour, inclofoë like à ‘civ
le, WHetein three or four difmantled fhips
during the winter. The mouth of this fort
islef than 25 toifes wide ; than which |
the fide of this bafin that M. Kafloff 1 prog fes mar
ing out the plan of a town,: which fhalloneiday
the capital of Kamtfchatka ; and perhaps the
centre for commerce with China, Japan, the Phi
lippines, and America. A vaft lake of foft ra
- toithe north of the fite of this projected city, «and
at only three hundred toifes diftarce flow many
little brooks, the jun&ion of which would facilitate.
the bringing hither of all the commodities neceffary.
for'a large eflablifhment. M. Kafloff knew'thewae «7
lue of thefe advantages; but “ before evérything !
“elfe,” repeated he a hundred times, #° Soi wer ï 4
have bread and. arms to work with, and. . be
now very little of cither.” -He neverthelefs gave.
orders for announcing that an union of foveral i 2
triéts, with that of St. Peter and St. Pagl, was near. .
at hand, where he intended to build a ehutoh: ims
mediately. The Grecian religion has beet iftablidiy: 4
ed among the Kamtfchadales without ‘per Fu à
without violence, and with extreme facility.
vicar of Paratoynka is the fon of a Kam
2
|
ftitut
onw
the f
term
ing t
Mare
fufe,
derft
Lefe
what
parti
whic
twen
are |
fourt
one,
1787.) ROUND THE WORLD. 189
and Ruffian ; he utters his prayers and catechifm
with a good nature well adapted'to the tafte of the
natives, who repay his cares by offerings or alms,
but pay no tythes. By the Grecian rites a prieit
is permitted to marry, whence, it may be conclud-
ed, that the manners of the clergy are better. 1
think them very ignorant; and it is impoffible for
me to fuppofe other than they will long remain fo,
The clergyman’s wife, daughter, and fifter, were the
beft dancers of the women, and appeared to enjoy
the beft ftate of health. ‘This good prieft knew that
we were thorough catholics, which occafioned us a
plentiful fprinkling of holy water; and he likewife
made us kifs the crofs, which was borne by his clerk.
Thefe ceremonies took place in the middle of the
village ; his parfonage was under a tent, his altar in
the open air: but his refidence was generally at Pa-
ratounka, and he only came to St. Peter and St.
Paul to pay us a vifit.
He gave us many particulars of the Kuriles, which
was likewife in his cure, whither he went once a year.
The Ruffians have found it more convenient to fub-
ftitute numbers for the ancient names of thefe iflands,
vn which authors have widely differed; thus they fay,
the firft, fecond, &c. to the twenty-firft, which laft
terminates the pretenfions of the Ruffians. Accord-
ing to the prieft’s account this might be the ifland of
Mareckan ; but I am not certain, as he was very dif-
fufe, notwithftanding we had an interpreter that un-
derftpod Ruffian as well as French: but M. de
Lefleps was of opinion that the vicar did not know
what he meant himfelf. Neverthelefs thefe are the
particulars, in relating which he did not vary, and
which may be regarded as nearly certain. Of the
twenty-one iflands belonging to Ruffia, only four
are inhabited, which are the firft, fecond, third, and
fourth : the two latter could be confidered only as
one, as “he inhabitants of the third fpend all the
3 winter
140 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE" [1787;
winter on the fourth,:and return again to. the third
in fummer; the others: are abfolutely uninhabited,
the iflanders only landing there in canoés;to. hunt
otters and foxes, Many of the latter ifles, are) only
iflots, or large rocks, where no wood. grows... The
currents are very ftrong between the. iflands, at the
mouth of the channels, fome.of which are obftruét-
ed by rocks level with the fea. ‘The prieft never
travels from Awatfcha to the Kuriles but in a canoe,
which the Ruffians call aidar; and he told us he
was frequently on the point of being caft away, and,
above all, dying through, hunger, having been driven
out of fight of land; but is thoroughly convinced
that his holy water and fiole protected him from
danger.. The inhabitants, of the four inhabited
iflands make together not more than 1400: the
are very hairy, with long beards, and fubfift on feals,
fifhing and hunting; they have juit been freed for
ten years from paying the tribute to Ruffia, the ot-
ters on thofe iflands beco:ring very fearce: they are
for the reft good, hofpitable, and docile, and have
all embraced the Chriftian religion. The more fouth-
ern independent iflanders fometimes crofs the chan-
nels, which feparate them from the Ruffian Kuriles,
in canoes, to exchange Japanefe merchandife for
fkins. Thefe iflands are comprifed in M. Kafloff’s
government; but from the difficulty of getting
thither, and their little confequence to Ruffia, he
did not intend to vifit them ; and though he regret-
ed having left a chart of thefe iflands behind him at
Bolcheretfk, he ftill appeared to repofe little confi- :
dence in it ; he, however, placed fo much in us, that
we could, in our turn, have wifhed to give him the
particulars of our voyage: his great delicacy, with
refpect to this, merits our warmeft praife.
We gave him, neverthelefs, a flight fketch of our
expedition ; not failing to inform him that we had
doubled Cape Horn, vifited the north-weft cpa
0
_ for our ¢
1787.]
of Ame:
whence :
fuffer ot
but Tai
dered fo
the firit «
to. forwa
our your
M. Kafle
that I fh
had I be
but I the
by giving
ing, fron
where he
our confi
gingly te
camp as
litate his
that inft:
nefs fo t
than exp
in the ba
The c
think o
rival on
moft be
burnt uf
of Dece
toifes al
with fno
way.
calm ob
dined o
de Lang
good fu
break, t
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 141
of America, China,’ and the Philippines, from
whence we arrived at Kamtfchatka.! We did not
fuffer ourfelves to go further into particulars,
but I aflured him that if our voyage was or
dered for publication, I would fend him one :of
the firft copies. I had already obtained -permiflion
to. forward my journal to France by M. de Lefieps,
our young Ruffian interpreter. My confidence in
M. Kafloff and the Ruffian government. was fuch,
that I fhould certainly have fuffered ‘no. uneafinefs
had I been obliged to truft my packets to the poft ;
but I thought I fhould render my country a fervice
by giving M. de Leffeps an opportunity of know-
ing, from his own obfervation, the Ruffian empire,
where he might very likely one day replace his father,
our conful-general at Peterfburgh. M. Kafloff obli-
gingly told me that he accepted him as his aid-de-
camp as far as Okhotfk, from whence he would faci-
litate his means of reaching’ Peterfburgh ; and from
that inftant he became part of his family. Polite-
nefs fo tender and amiable, is more immediately felt
than exprefled, making us regret the time we paffed
in the bay of Awatfcha, while he was at Bolcheretdk.
The cold weather reminded us that it was time to
think of being gone; the earth, which on our ar-
rival on the 7th of September, was covered with the
moft beautiful verdure, being now as yellow and
burnt up as it is in the vicinity of Paris at the end
of December ; and all the mountains, two hundred
toifes above the furface of the fea, were covered
with fnow. I ordered every thing to be in readinefs
for our departure, and on the 29th we got under
way. M. Kafloff came to take leave of us, and a
calm obliging us to anchor in the middle of the bay,
dined on board. I accompanied him afhore, with M.
de Langle and many officers, when he gave us a
good fupper and another ball. The morrow, at day-
break, the wind having fhifted to the north, I made
the
242 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787.
the fignal for weighing. We were hardly under fail
before we heard a general falute from all the artille-
ry of St. Peter and St. Paul. This falute I returned,
which was repeated when we were in the gut, the go-
vernor having fent us a detachment to do us the
honours of departure, the moment we fhould pafs
before the fmall battery, which is to the northward
of the light-houfe at the egtrance.
We could not, without being moved, quit M.
de Lefleps, whofe amiable qualities had endeared
him to us ; and whom we left in a foreign land, on
the point of undertaking a journey as long as la-
borious *.
‘We carried with us the mioft affectionate remem-
brance of this country, with a certainty that in no
age, in no country, were the cares and attentions of
hofpitality carried to a greater pitch. :
\
* I refer the reader, defirous of more ample details of Kamt-
{chatka, to Leffeps’ Journal annexed; he wiil there fee and feet
for the pitiable fituation of that interpreter, in his route from the
harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul to Paris; and the particular
pains he was at in the fulfilment of his miffion, and bringing one
of the moft interefting parts of La Péroufe’s voyage to France.—
French Editor. ©
tary,
navig
trade
for a
diffic
fpoils
more
to fu
to di
peni
ther
firft
inha
Ruf
out
dale
bute
pen
fox,
reve
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. -
CHAP. XXIII.
SUMMARY PARTICULARS OF KAMTSCHATKA—DIREC-~
TIONS FOR SAILING IN AND OUT OF THE BAY OF
AWATSCHA—WE TRAVERSE IN THE PARALLEL OF
37° 30’, A SPACE OF 300 LEAGUES, IN SEARCH OF
LAND, SAID TO BE DISCOVERED BY THE SPANIARDS
IN 1620—cROsS THE LINE FOR THE THIRD ‘TIME
—WE MAKE THE ISLANDS OF NAVIGATORS, AFTER
HAVING PASSED THE ISLAND OF DANGER OF BYRON
—VISITED BY MANY CANOES-—BARTER WITH THE
INDIANS, AND ANCHOR AT THE ISLE OF MAOUNA.
USSIA is not indebted for its difcoveries and
eftablifhments on the coafis of Eaftern Tar-
tary, and the pentane of Kamtfchatka, to foreign
navigators. The Ruffians, as greedy of the fur
trade as the Spaniards are for gold and filver, have,
for a long time paft, undertaken the longeft and moft
difficult journies, to procure themfelves the valuable
fpoils of fables, foxes, and fea otters; but foldiers,
more than huntfmen, it was better adapted for them
to fubje&t the natives to a tribute by inflaving, than
to divide with them the fatigues of the chace. The
peninfula of Kamtfchatka was not difcovered by —
them till about the end of the laft century; their
firft expedition againft the liberty of its unfortunate
inhabitants taking place in 1696, The authority of
Ruffia was not thoroughly acknowledged through-
out the whole peninfula, until 1711 ; the Kamtfcha-
dales then accepted the conditions of a trifling tri-
bute, which is fcarcely fufficient to defray the ex-
pences of governing it; 300 fables, 200 red or grey
fox, and a few otter fkins, completing the Ruffian
revenucs in this part of Afia, where it has 400. fol-
diers
144 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787.
diers, moftly Coffacks or Siberians, and many officers
who command in the different diftriéts.
The court of Ruffia has feveral,times changed the
form of government in this peninfula; that which
the Englifh found eftablifhed there, in 1778, ex-
ifted no longer than 1784, at which period Kamtf-
chatka became a province to the government of
Okhotfk, which is itfelf dependent on the fovereign
court. of Irkoutfk. The oftrog of Bolcheretfk, for-
merly the capital of Kamtfchatka, which was, at the
arrival of the Englith, the refidence of Major Bchm,
is now under the command of a ferjeant, of the
name. of Martinof. M. Kaborof, licutcnant, com-
manded, as it was faid, at St. Peter and St. Paul;
Major Elemoff at Nigen Kamtfchatka, or oftrog
of Lower Kamtfchatka ; Vercknei, or Upper Kamtf-
chatka, is under the orders of Serjeant Momayeff.
Thefe different commanders are not accountable onc
to the other, each communicating directly with the
governor of Okhotfk, who has eftablifhed an infpect-
ing officer, with the rank of major, to the particu-
lar command of the Kamtfchadales, and, without
doubt, to protect them againft the imaginary vex-
ations arifing from a military government.
This firft glimpfe of the commerce of thefe coun- '
tries would convey but a.very imperfect idea of the
- advantages which Ruffia derives from her colonies
eaft of Afia, fhould the reader be ignorant that jour-
nies by land have been fucceeded by fea voyages, in
the eaft of Kamtfchatka, towards the American
coafts: with thofe of Behring and Tfchirikow, all
Europe is acquainted. After the names of thefe
men, rendered famous by their expeditions and con-.
fequent misfortunes, may be mentioned other na-
vigators, who have added to the Ruffian poffeffions,
the Aleutian iflands, the groups more to the eaft,
known by tke name of Oonolafka, and all the iflands
fouth of the peninfula,
Captain
1787
Ca
dition
but I
coun!
fufed
with
enou;
of fut
Amer
ous O
Ru
poffed
ping |
ment
one h
mann
quit (
tween
riles, |
ifland
purch
cient
equip
profit
R
of Ke
port
ftroys
gove
capta
Ruffi
vifit,
houfe
1787,
fficers
d the
which
By CX-
amt{-
ent of
ercign
». for-
at the
Bchm,
bf the
com-
Paul ;
oftrog
Camt{-
nayeff.
le onc
th the
fpect-
irticu-
ithout
r VEx-
4
coun-
of the
lonies
| jour-
es, In
erican
w, all
thefe
| con-.
Tr na-
lions,
2 eaft,
flands
aptain
1787.| ROUND THE WORLD.. 145
Captain Cook’s laft voyage has occafioned expe-
ditions to be undertaken yet more to the eaft;
but I learnt at Kamtfchatka, that the natives of thofe
countries where the Ruffians went, have hitherto re-
fufed to pay tribute, or even carry on any commerce
with them. They may probably have been weak
enough to let them know they had formed the defign
of fubjugating them, and we know how proud t
Americans are of their independence, and how jeal-
ous of their liberty. %
Ruffia is at a very little expence to extend: her
poftefiions. Some merchants give orders for equip-
ping veffels at Okhotfk, where they are built, : at im-
menfe coft ; they are 45 or 50 feet long, with only
one maft in the middle, nearly like our cutters, and
manned by 40 or 50 rather hunters than failors ; they
quit Okhotik in the month of June, fail generally be-
tween the point of Lopatka and the firfi of the Ku-
riles, fteering to the eaftward, and traverfing different
iflands for three or four years, until they have either
purchafed ofthe natives, or themfelves killed, a fuffi-
cient quantity of otters to cover the charges of the
equipment, and give thofe who fitted them out a
profit of at leaft cent, per cent. for their advances.
Ruffia has yet formed no eftablifhment eaftward
of Kamtithatka: each. fhip makes one in whatever
port it winters; and, at’ its departure, either de-
ftroys or gives it fome other fhip of its nation. The
government of Okhotik takes great care to order the
captains of thefe cutters to. make the authority of
Ruffia acknowledged by all the iflanders whom they
vifit, and puts. on beard of each fhip a kind of cuftom
houfé officer, charged with impofing and levying a
tribute for the-crown. I have been told that a mif-
fion is on the point of leaving Okhotfk to preach
the gofpel to the fubjugated people, and in fome re-
fpects compenfate, by fpiritual good, for the tributes
Vou. II. | L impofed
146 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787
impofed on them by the Ruffians, by the law alone
of the ftrongeft.
We know that furs fell very advantageoufly at
Kiatcha, on the frontiers of China and Ruffia; but
it is only fince the publication of Mr. Coxe’s work,
that Europe has known the extent of this objcét of
commerce; the imports and exports of which, an-
nually amount to near eighteen millions of livres,
F have been affured that 25 fhips, whofe complements
amount to about 1000 men, as well Kamtfchadales
as Ruffians or Coflacks, were this year fent in fearch
of furs towards the eaft of Kamtfchatka ;: thefe fhips
muft be fcattered from Cook’s River, to Behring’s
Ifland: long experience has taught them, that otters
fcarcely ever frequent more foutherly latitudes than
60°, which, with refpect to this, determines all the
expeditions towards the latitude of the peninfula of
Alafka, or more to the eaft, but never to the ftrait
of Behring, it being inceflantly obftruéted by ice
which never diffolves.
At the return of thefe fhips they fometimes put
inte the Bay of Awatfcha, but always come back to
Okhotfk, where thofe who fitted them out, and the
merchants who trade dircét with the Chinefe on the
frontiers of the two empires, refide.
As the ice, at all feafons of the year, is paffable
for fhips to and from the Bay of ‘Awatfcha, the
Ruffian navigators put in there, when the time is
too far advanced for their reaching Okhotfk before
the end of September: a very important regulation
of the Emprefs of Ruffia, forbids the navigation of
the fea of Okhotfk after that period, when the hur-
ricanes and gufts of wind, which has occafioned
frequent fhipwrecks in that fea, fet in.
The ice never extends in the Bay of Awatfcha,
within three or four hundred toifes from the bank ;
it often happens during the winter, that the ee
winds
1787.
winds
the r
navig
ter 18
as at
the R
vence
20th
carth
which
hood
thefe
than 1
{chads
who v
tempe
ftoves.
We cc
lieute
apartt
are al
in Eu
ftoves
and t
St. Pe
went
low rc
of dr
bread
to an
fo tha
take a
arch i
water
caufes
[1787
alone
fly at
; but
work,
ject of
, an-
livres,
pments
hadales
fearch
e fhips
hring’s
otters
es than
all the
fula of
e ftrait
by ice
nes put
back to
and the
on the
‘gap i
a, the
time is
before
ulation
ation of
he hur-
afioned
atfcha,
bank :
1e land
winds
1787. ROUND THE WORLD, 147
winds difperfe that which obftructs the pañläge into
the rivers of Paratounka and Awatfcha, when the
navigation again becomes practicable. As the win-
ter is, in general, not fo rigorous at Kamtfchatka
as at, Peterfburgh and many provinces of Ruffia,
the Ruffians fpeak of it as the French do of Pro-
vence: but the fnow which furrounded us from the
20th of September, the hoar froft with which the
earth was every morning covered, and the verdure
which was faded as much as it is in the neighbour-
hood of Paris during the month of January, all
thefe combinations made us forefee that the rigour
of the winter, in that part, muft be infupportable to
the fouthern nations of Europe. _,
We were, however, in fome refpects, lefs chilly
than the inhabitants, whether Ruffians or Kamt-
fchadales, of the oftrog of St. Peter and St. Paul,
who were clothed with the thickeft furs ; and the
temperature in whofe ifbas, wherein are always heated
ftoves, was 28 or 30 degrees above the freezing point.
We could not take our breath in fo hot an air, and the
lieutenant took care to open the windows of his
apartment while we remained in it. Thefe people
are always in extremes; we know that their cuftom
in Europe, as well as Afia, is to ufe vapour baths in
ftoves, from whence they go out covered with fweat,
and then roll themfelves in the fnow. The oftrog of
St. Peter had two of thefe public baths, into which I
went before they were heated: they confift of a very
low room, in the center of which is raifed an oven
of dry ftone, which is made hot, like thofe for baking
bread : its arch is furrounded by feats, placed fimilar
to an amphitheatre, for thofe who choofe to bathe,
fo that the heat varies more or lefs, according as they
take a higher or a lower feat; when the top of the
arch is made red hot by the fire which is under it,
water is thrown thereon; this water immediately
caufes the vapours to rife, and excites the moft abun-
L2 dant
Tnt
PS Nats
2
7
16
23 WE
W
(
| PA
ie
lé
LES
= |
2
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
Il
6
phic
|
Il
|
tographi
(oa
À
ake
4
én
ms . LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787.
dant perfpiration. The Kamtfchadales have adopted
this cufiom, as well as many others, from their con-
querors ; and in a very few years, the primitive cha-
raétenftic, which diftinguifhed them in fo marked a
‘manner from the Ruffians, ‘will be entitely done
away. ‘Their population does not now ‘exceed 4000
“fouls in the whole péninfula, which ‘extends from the
51ft to the 63d degree, including. many degrecs of
longitude ; thus ‘we fée that ‘to each individual are
feveral fquare leagues. They cultivate nothing which
‘the earth produces ; and their preference of dogs to’
rein-deer for LD prevents their rearing either
‘pigs, fheep, rein-deer, colts, or calves, as thefe ani-
mals would be devoüred before they could acquire
Srength ‘fufficient to defend themfelves. Fith is the
principal nourifhment of their fledge-dogs, which,
“neverthelefs, travel 24 leagues a day without having
‘any thing till they come to the end of their jourrier.
This manner of travelling, as the reader has already
Seen, is not peculiar to the Kamtfchadales ; the in-
habitarits of Tchoka, and 'Tartars of Caftries Bay,
having no other kind of conveyance. We were ex-
“tremely defirous of knoWing whether the Ruffians
were at all acquainted with thefe different countries,
and learnt from M. Kafloff, that the Okhotfk fhips
: had frequently féen ‘the fouthern point of theïflands,
‘at the mouth ‘of the river Amur, but ‘never landed
there, on-account of its being beyond ‘the bounda-
‘ries of the eftablifhments of the Ruffian’ empire on
that coaît.
fhould “be paid to two fhoals lyirig ‘te “the eaft and
Saat welt
1787
weft
for tl
ed, |
open
the c
on tl
from
lengt
is eq!
from
catin:
Fr
(1787.
adopted
eir con-
ive cha-
arked à
ly done
ed 4000
rom the
precs of
dual are
g which
dogs to’
r either
efe ani-
acquire
th is the
, which,
t having
jourriey.
| already
the in-
es Bay,
were €x-
Ruffians
ountrics,
tfk fhips
esflands,
er fanded
“bounda-
mpire on
blance to
id, it is a
ywer, and
gifts and
but what
. ‘Englith
Attention
eaft arid
weit
1787. ROUND THE WORLD. _ 149
and found myfelf blown off eighty leagues from the
coaft. A knowledge of thefe iflands being of tri-
fling import, I did not attempt to overcome thefe
obftacles ; but fteered fo as to crofs the parallel of
87° 30’, in 165° of longitude, where fome geo-
graphers have placed a large, rich, well populated
ifland, which they ftate to have been difcovered by
the Spaniards in 1620. Captain de Vries’s inftruc-
tions partly aimed at the difcoyery of this ifland ;
and a memoir, containing fome particulars thereon,
may be found in the fourth volume of the Acade-
L3 | mical
150 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE _ [1787.
mical Collection, foreign part, . It appeared to me,
that among the different refearches which were ra-
ther pointed out than ordered by my inftru&ions,
that deferved preference. I did not gain. the parallel
of 37° 30/ till the 14th at midnight, in the courfe
of which day we faw five or fix little land birds, of
the linnet Die perch on our rigging; and the
fame evening perceived two flights of ducks, or cor-
vorants, birds which never go far from land. The
weather was very clear, and in each frigate we had
hands conftantly looking out at the maft-head. A
confiderable reward was promifed him who fhould firft
difeover land : this motive of emulation was {carcely
necefläry, each failor being eager for the honour of
the firft difcovery of what, according to my promife,
fhould carry his name, But, notwithftanding the
certain indications of our being near land, we faw
nothing, although the horizon was very extenfive. I
fuppofed that this ifland muft lie to the fouth, and
the violent Bales which had recently blown from that
quarter mutt have driven the little birds we faw on
our rigging northward ; and I confequently ftood to
the fouth, till midnight, when being precifely, as I
before ftated, in 37° 30’ N. lat. I ordered the fhip to
to.be kept eaft under eafy fail, waiting with the moft
lively impatience for day-light. It came,.and we again
faw two little birds. _ I continued fteering an eafterly
courfe; a large turtle pafled the fame day clofe along
fide. On the morrow, ftill keeping the fame track
eafiward, we faw a bird much fmaller than the wren
perched on the main-topfail-brace, and a third flight |
- of ducks: thus were our hopes, which we never had
the good fortune to realize, every moment buoyed up*,
sce? \ We
* Was La Péroufe ignorant that the parallel of 37 deg. 30 min.
north had been fruitlefsly traverfed for a fpace of 450 miles to the
eaft of Japan by the fhip Kaftricum ? Or was he afraid of depart-
ing from hjs inftruétions, and the intimation given him in the
9 geographical
[1787.
to me,
Were ra-
ruétions,
> parallel
e courfe
birds, of
and the
, Or COr-
d. The
we had
ead. A
ould firft
{carcely
onour of
promife,
ding the
we. faw
nfive. J
ith, and
rom that
> faw on
ftood to
ely, as I
e fhip to
the moft
we again
| eafterly
fe along
ne track
the wren
rd flight
ever had
sy We
g. 30 min.
iles to the
of depart-
im in the
ographical
1987.) ROUND THE WORLD. : 151
. We fuftained, during this fearch, a real misfortune:
afailor on board the Aftrolabe, furling the mizen-
top-gallant-fail, fell into the fea; whether he was hurt
in his fall, or whether he could not fwim, he ‘was no
moe feen, and all our endeavours to fave him were
ineffectual. The indications of land continued the
18th and igth, although we had made much ‘way to:
_ the eaftward, fecing on both thefe days flights of:
ducks, or other land birds: one foldier pretended
to have’ feen bits of fea-weed (goémon) pafs' by ;
but this fact being unfupported by other evidence,
we unanimoufly rejected his account, preferving, ne-
verthelefs, the ftrongeft hopes. of the approaching
difcovery of land. Hardly had we attained 175° E.
long. when all thefe figns ceafed; I however con-
tinued the fame courfe until the 22d at noon; but at: ’
this time. the. time-piece, No. 19, pointing out that’
I was in 20’ long. beyond 180° E. of Paris, the
limits fixed for my refearch; I altered my. courfe
foutherly, to find more tranquil feas: Since our
departure from Kamtfchatka, our navigation had al- -
ways been in the midft of the heavieft fwell ; at one
time a fea carried away_our jolly boat, lafhcd to the
gang-way, and we fhippéd more than: a. hundred
barrels of water. Thefe difficulties would not
have been worth remarking had we been more for-
tunate in meeting with the ifland, the fearch for
which coft us fo much fatigue, and. which is cer-
tainly in the vicinity of the courfe we followed: the
figns of land were too frequent and remarkable to
geographical note in the firft volume ? Whatever might be the mo-
tive which determined him, the frequent indications navigators have
bad of land, makes it much to be regretted that La Péroufe did not
refolve to purfue the 37th or 38th parallel. The lands difcovered
by the ancients being almoft wholly retrieved in our time, this
ifland will certainly become an object for frefh refearches; and
there is room for hoping that it will be found by running along
the parallel of 36 deg. 30 min.—French Editor, tata
La | leave
152 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787
leave @ doubt of this on our minds. I was led to be.
lieve that we purfued a too northerly track ; and had
Lthe fame fearch to make over again, I would keep
in the parallel of 35° from 160° to 170° long. It
is in this {pace that we faw moft land birds, which
appeared to have come from the fouth, and been
_ driven. by ‘the violence of the winds, which blew
ftom that quarter, The further object of my voy-
‘age did not leave me time to learn the truth of
this conjecture, by running as far to the weft as we
had juft done to the eaft : the winds, which almoft
‘inceflantly blew from the weft, would not have per-
mitted me to make in two months the run I had
made in eight days. |
fhaped my courfe towards the fouthern hemi-
{phere, as the vaft field for difcoveries, where the
track of Quiros, Mendana, Tafman, &c. are, in every
fenfe, crofied by thofe of modern navigators, each of
whom: has:added fome new iflands to thofe already
known, but af which the curiofity of Europeans de-
fired more cirgumftantial details than are to be found
in the: narratives of former navigators. We know
that in this vaft portion of the great equatorial ocean,
there exifis a zone from about 12° to 15° N, and §,
and 140° E. and W. ftrewed with iflands, which are
on the terrefirial what the milky way is on the ce-
leftial, globe, The language and the manners of
the inhabitants are no longer unknown to us; and
the obfervations of later circumnavigators can give na
ground for conjectyres on the probable origin of thefe
people, which may be attributed to the Malays, as
thofe of the different colonies on the coafts of Spain
and Africa are to the Phenicians.
_ In this archipelago my inftruétions ordered me tq
navigate during the third year of our expedition,
the wefiern: and fouthern part of New Caledo-
nia, af which the eaftcrn coaft was difcovered by
Captain Cook, in his fecond voyage; the i
bal ET SES, ifles
ruth of
‘as we
almoft
ve per-
| I had
hemi-
ere the
n every
each of
already
ans de-
e found
know
ocean,
, and §,
ich are
the ce-
ners of
1s; and
give na
of thefe
lays, as
bf Spain
edition,
aledo-
red by
oythern
“ifles
787.1 ROUND THE WORLD. 153
les of the archipelago of Arfacides, the northern
of which Surville found out; the fouthern part of
the land of Louifiade, which Bougainville could not
explore, but on the fouth-eaft of which he had firft
ranged along. The attention of Government was
particularly fixed on thefe geographical points, and I
was enjained to lay down their limits, and accurately
determine their latitude and longitude. The Friend- ,
ly and Society Iflands, the New Hebrides, &c. were
known, and could no longer intereft European cu-
riofity ; but offering the refources of provifions, [
had the choice of putting in there or not, as I might
find it neceffary, reafonably prefumirig, that on quit-
ting Kamtfchatka, I fhould have very little frefh
rovifions, fo neceflary for the prefervation of the ~
ealth of the failors. dina
It was not poffible for me to advance faft enough
to the fouth, to avoid a gale of wind which blew from
that quarter on ‘the 23d of October: the fea was |
extremely high, and we were obliged to lie to: alt
night, under the forefail: the winds were very
changeable, and the fea rough as far as the 30th de:
gree of latitude, which parallel we reached on the
20th October. Our ‘health was in general affected,
by fo rapid a tranfition from cold to the greateft heat ;
but the inconveniences we felt from it were fo tri-
fling, that none of us was under the neceffity of keep-
ing his bed.
- The 1ft November, in 269 277 N. lat. and W.
long. 175° 38’, we faw a great number of birds,
among which were curlews and plovers, two fpecies
that never fly far from land. The weather was cloudy,
with fqualls s but it cleared up fucceffively in every
part of the horizon except the fouth, where large
clouds remained conftantly fixed, which made me
believe there was land in that quarter, This courfe
we followed : the 2d, 3d and 4th, we continued to
fee birds; by degrees the figns of land difappear-
ed, but it is more than probable we pafled by tome
ih | ifland
154 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
ifland or fhoal, which we did not get fight of, and
which chance will probably prefent to the view. of
another navigator. We then began to enjoy.a ferene
fky, and it was at laft, poflible for us to find the ‘lon.
gitude, by lunar obfervations, we had not before been
enabled to take fince we had left Kamtfchatka : the
longitude, by obfervation, differed from that given by
our time-piece, No. 19, being one degree more to the
weft. We caught fome doradoes, and two fharks,
which were delicious food to us, who were all reduced
to falt pork, and began to feel the influence of thefe
burning climates. We repeated our Junar obferva-
tions the following days, and always found the fame
difference, We had at laft arrived at the tropic ;
the weather became. finer, and our horizon was of
greater extent: we {till perceived no land, but fome
land birds every day, which are never met with far
from it. The 4th November we were in 23° 40’ N.
lat. and 175° 58’ 47" W. long., according to the mean
of feveral fets of obfervations taken the fame day.
We caught a golden plover, which was yet tolerably
fat, and could. not. have been wandering at fea for
any length of time. On the 5th we croffed the line
of our traft from Monterey to Macao; on the 6th,
that of Captain Clerke from the Sandwich Iflands ta
Kamtfchatka; the: birds had. entirely difappeared.
Our veffels were extremely labourfome on account of
a heavy {well from the eaft, which like that from the
weft in the Atlantie Ocean, conftantly prevails in this
vaft fea; we met with neither bonetas nor doradoes,
and hardly faw any flying fifh ; our frefh provifions
were abfolutely confumed, and we had reckoned too
much upon fith to foften the aufterity of our allowance.
The oth we paffed the fouthern point of the fhoal of
the Villa. Lobos, according to its fituation, on the
charts which M. de Fleurieu had tranfmitted to me.
1 fo regulated my rate of failing as to come into its
latitude in the day time, but as we perceived neitber
| birds
[1787.
f, and
lew. of
ferene
€ ‘lon-
e been
a: the
iven by
to the
fharks,
educed
f thefe
bferva-
e fame
ropic s
was of
it fome
vith far
AO’ N.
e mean
ne day,
lerably
fea for
he line
he 6th,
ands ta
peared,
ount of
om the
in this
radoes,
vifions
ed too
wance.:
hoal of
on the
to me.
into its
peitber
birds
/
1787.) ROUND THE WORLD, : 155
birds nor fea-weeds, I am inclined to beliéve, that if
fuch a fhoal is in exiftence, a more weftern pofition
muft be affigned to it, the Spaniards having always
placed their difcoveries in the great ocean, too near
the coafts of America, The fea fell a little at
this time, and the breezes were more moderate ; but
the fky Was covered with thick clouds, and we. had
hardly attained the 10th degree of north latitude,
when we experienced an almoft continued rain, at
lcaft during the day, forthe nights were tolerably
fine. The heat was fuffocating, and the hygrometer
never denoted more humidity fince we left Europe ;
we breathed a confined air, which, joined to our bad
food, diminifhed our firength, and would have rendered
us almoft incapable of hard labour, if circumftances
had required it. I redoubled my cares to preferve the
health of my crew at this crifis, brought on by a too
fudden tranfition from cold to heat and moifture. I
daily diftributed coffee for breakfaft, and ordered the
between-decks to be kept well aired and dried; the
rain water ferved for wafhing the failors’ fhirts, and
we thus profited by the intemperature of the climate
we were obliged to pafs through, and the influence
of which I was more afraid of than that of the higheft
latitudes we had traverfed: ‘The 6th of November,
we for the firft time. took eight bonetas, which af-
forded the whole fhip’s company a good meal, as well
as the officers, who like myfelf had now no other
than the fhip provifions. Thefe rains, ftorms,. and
heavy fwells, ceafed about the 15th, when we
were in 5 degrees N. latitude; we then enjoyed the
moft ferene weather : our horizon being of the wideft
extent, at fun-fet, made our night’s run perfectly
fafe ; befides the air was fo clear, and the fky fo
ferene, that a brightnefs fhone from it, by the aid
of which we might have perceived any dangers,
the fame as in broad day light. This fine :wea-
ther accompanied us from our crofling the equa-
| tor,
15û LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787.
tor, the 21ft November, for the third time fince
leaving Breft : we were three times at the diftance of
about 60° from it north or fouth ; and the further plan
of our voyage was not to bring us towards the north-
.. een-hemifphere till we were in the Atlantic Occan,
on our return ta Europe. The monotony of this
long paffage was not at all interrupted; our track
was nearly parallel with that of the preceding year,
in going from Eafter Ifland to the Sandwich Iflands,
in which courfe we were inceffantly furrounded with
birds. and bonetas, which furnifhed us with abun-
dance of healthy nourifhment ; while here, on the
contrary, à vaft folitude reigned around, the air and
the water. of this part of the globe being equally
without inhabitants, We however caught, on the
23d, two fharks, which afforded the fhip's company
two meals, and we on the fame day killed a curlew
very lean, and which appeared greatly fatigued ; we
thought it might have come from the Duke of York's
Eflands, about 100 leagues off ; it was haihed and eat
at my table, and was hardly better than the fharks. In
proportion aswe neared the fouthern hemifphere, nod-
dies, man-of-war ‘birds, fea fwallows, and tropic birds,
hovered round the fhips; wetook them as the fore-
runners of fome ifland, which we were very. impa-
tient to fall.in with, being difcontented at the fatality
which: attended us fince our departure from Kamtf-
chatka, in making a long run without the leaft difco.
very. The quantity of thefe birds became innumer-
able when we were in 4° 8. lat., which made us every
inftant expect fome land ; but though the horizon was
of a moft furprifing extent, we faw none, indeed we
made very little way, “The breezes fell when in 2°
S: lat. and were fucceeded by light airs from the N. ta
W.N. W., with which £ made a little eafting, lefi I
_ fhould be carried to leeward of the Friendly Iflands.
While thefe calms lafted we caught fome fharks, which
we preferred to falt meat, and fome fea fowl, which
F- we
[1787.
1e fince
ance of
er plan
> north-
Ocean,
of this
iy track
1g year,
Iflands,
ed with
\ abun-
on the
air and
equally
on the
ompany
: curlew
ed ; we
f York's
and eat
rks. In
re, nod-
ic birds,
he fore-
ry. impa-
fatality
Kamtf-
difco:
numer-
us every
zon was
deed we
en in 2°
ne N. to
g, lefil
Iflands,
s, which
1, which
Ws
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 157
we eat in a hath, and although very ‘ean, they tafted
and fmelt intolerably of fith, yet in the prefent
dearth of frefh provifions, we thought them almoft
equal to woodcocks. The black, or white gulls
are peculiar to the South Seas, and I never faw any
in the Atlantic: we killed many of them, as well as
noddies and man-of-war birds; the latter hovered.in
fuch numbers over the fhips in the night time, that we
were almoft ftunned with their noife, and could hard-
ly hold a converfation on the quarter deck: our
fport, which we were pretty fortunate im, revenged
their chattering, and furnifhed us with palatable food;
but they difappeared when we paffed the ‘fixth de-
grec. The winds from N. W. to W. which ‘com-
menced about 3° 'S. lat. but were very faint, with clear
weather, then conftantly prevailed till we were in Jat.
12°, ‘ A heavy fwell from the weft, rendered. our na-
vigation. very laborious: our running rigging, rotted
by the conftant ‘humidity on the ‘coaft of Tartary,
was breaking every inftant; we did not replace it
till the laft extremity, for fear of having none left.
Squalls, tempefts, and rain, continually accompanied
‘us till in 10° 50’ which we reached-on the 2d: De-
cember. The wind which remained fteady at W.,
becoming ‘more moderate, and the {ky more bright,
we took lunar obfervations, in order to rectify the
crror of our time-keepers, which feemed to have loft
five minutes of time, by which they gave the longi-
tude 1° 15’ too much eaft, fince our departure from
Kamtfchatka. We pafied, according to the longi-
tude obtained by the diftance of the'maon ‘from the
fun, the refult of which was 170° 7’ W., precifelyon
the fpot-affigned by Byron to’ his ‘les of Danger, for
we were in their latitude, and perceiving no ‘land, ner
any trace of being near any, it is clear that a different
longitude mutt be given'them. ‘Commodore‘Byron,
in his navigation, had gone bythe erroncous method
of a dead'reckoning. The'next day, the 3d Decem-
ber, we ‘were ‘in 110.34 37/5. ht. and ‘1709 7/4/
158 LA PEROUSB’S VOYAGE L1787.
W. long. by our lunar obfervations, exaéily in the
fame parallel as the ifland of the Handfome Nation of
Quiros, and one de farther to the eaft. I fhould
have preferred fianding fome degrees to the weft, for
the fake of meeting with it, but the winds blew di-
rectly from that quarter: and the fituation of the
ifland was too uncertain to feck it by plying to wind.
ward. I therefore thought to make the beft of thefe
winds to gain the point of Bougainville’s Navigators’
Iflands, which are a French difcovery, and where we
might fucced in finding fome refrefhments, of which
we were much in want.
The moft eafterly ifland of that archipelago came
in fight the 6th of December, at three o'clock in the
afternoon we made fail till eleven to. approach it,
when we flood off and on for the reft of the night.
As I propofed coming to there, if there -was anchor-
ing ground, I entered the channel between the great
and {mall ifland, which Bougainville left to the fouth.
It is narrow, being hardly a league in width, but it
appeared fafe and free from fhoals. We were in
the channel at noon, when we obferved, at a mile
from the coaft, in lat. 14° 7’S.; the fouth point of
one of thefe iflands bearing S. 36°. W. : ‘fo that the
fouthern point of this ifland:is fituated in 14° 8/S,
lat, |
We faw no canoes till we arrived in the channel.
We had perceived habitations when to windward
of the ifland, and a confiderable group of Indians,
‘feated in a circle under cocoa-nut trees, feemed
to enjoy, without emotion, the fpeétacle which the
fight of our frigates afforded; they neither launched
a canoe, nor followed us along the fhore. This land,
about two hundred toifes in height, is. very fteep,
and covered to its fummit with lofty trees, among
which we diftinguifhed many cocoa-palms, . The
houfes are built about half way down, by which
means thefe iflanders. breathe a more temperate air.
We remarked near us fome ground newly tape NPs
- where
1787
whet
but :
not :
My
grot
coaft
likev
tache
from
veral
ance
barte
only
linule
Sout!
recei'
retur
Thef
glafs
bein 2
frequ
hund
thoug
our c
to fi
repre
ing, d
mete
‘wind
by re
vain
ed o
alon 4
near!
are
toifes
iflot,
[3797.
y in the
ation of
| fhould
veft, for
slew di-
of the
o wind.
of thefe
igators’
here we
f which
oO came
cin the
oach it,
e night.
anchor-
he great
e fouth.
, but it
were in
; a mile
point of
hat the
1° 8’S.
hannel.
indward
Indians,
feemed
1787.) ‘ROUND THE WORLD. 150
where probably potatoes or yams had been planted’:
but the ifland, taking it altogether, appeared to be
not very fertile, and in any other part of the South
Sea, I fhould ‘have believed it to be uninhabited.
My error in this refpe€t would have been the more
rofs, as even two little iflands, forming the weftern
coaft of the channel through which we pafféd, have —
likewife their inhabitants, We faw five canoes de-
tached, that formed a junction with eleven others
from the eaftern ifland, which, after having gone fe-
veral times round our two fhips, with an appear-
ance of miftruft, at Jaft ventured to approach, and
barter with us, but to fo trifling an extent, that we
only obtained twenty cocoa-nuts, and two blue gal-
linules. Thefe iflanders were, like all thofe of the
South Sea, treacherous in their commerce; and after
receiving the price of their nuts before hand, rarely
returned with the articles agreed for in exchange.
Thefe thefts indeed were of little importance, a few
glafs beads, necklaces, with little flips of red cloth,
being fcarcely worth the trouble of reclaiming. We
frequently founded in the channel with a line of one .
hundred fathoms, which did not reach the bottom,
though within a mile of the fhore. We continued
our courfe to double a point, behind which we hoped
to find fhelter ; but the ifland was not near the width
reprefented by M. de Bougainville’s chart, terminat-
ing, on the contrary, in a point, and its greateft dia-
meter not exceeding a league. We found the eaft
wind blowing right on this coaft, which is guarded
by reefs, and we fatisfied ourfelves that it would be
vain to feek further for anchorage. We then direct
ed our courfe out of the channel, intending to run
along the two weftern iflands, which are together
nearly as confiderable as the moft eaftern one: they
are feparated by a channel lefs than one hundred
toifes wide ; and at this weftern extremity is feen an
iflot, which, but' for its being covered with trees, I
fhould
160 LA térouse's VOYAGE [i#87,
fhould have-called a large rock. Before doubling the
two fouthern points of the channel, we were com.
pletely becalmed, and'buffettéd about bya heavy fwell,
which made me fearful of running on board the
Aftrolabe : happily fome light airs of wind foon ex-
tricated us from this difagreeable fituation, which
prevented us from attending to the harangue of an
old Indian, who held a branch of ava in his hand,
and delivered a difcourfe of tolerable length. This
we knew, from the peruïal of different voyages, was
a fign of peace, and throwing him fome ftuffs, we
anfwered him by the word tayo, which, in the lan-
guage of many of the South Sea Iflands, means friend;
but we were not hitherto fufficicntly in practice to un-
derfiand and pronounce diftinétly the different words
extracted from the vocabulary of Cook’s voyages.
When we had at leigth caught the breeze, we
made failand ftood away from the coaft, to get out,of
reach of the calms. All the canoes then came along.
fide : they, in general, failed tolerably well, but went
very indifferently with paddles. Thefe boats would
. have been ufelefs to people lefs expert in fwimming,
. as they overfet every inftant. But this accident fur-
prifes and difturbs them lefs than letting a hat fall
does us. They raife the canoe upon their fhoulders,
and, after having emptied it of the water, they again
get into it, very fure of having to reeommence the
fame operation within half an hour afterwards, the
equilibrium being almoft as difficult to preferve in
thefe ticklifh barks, as that of our tumblersis on their
ropes. Thefe Iflanders are generally tall, their me-
dium ftature being about five feet feven or eight
inches : the colour of their {kin is nearly like that of
the Algerines, or other people on the coaftiof Barbary:
their ‘hair: is long, and turned up to the top of the
head: their phyfiognomy.appeared by no means agree-
abie. I faw only two women, whofe features were
not more delicate. The youngeft, whom I bia
guefs
curic
ing
acce
prefe
the
fold.
fimi
V
ges, was
uffs, we
the lan-
nS friend;
ce to un-
nt words
res,
ZE, We
et. outiof
e along-
put went
ts would
imming,
lent fur-
. hat fall
10ulders,
ey again
ence the
irds, the
aferve in
on their
heir me-
or eight
e that of
Barbary: .
p of the
as agree-
nes. Were
I might
guefs
1787:| ROUND THE WORLD. : _ 161
guefsito be about 1.8,had on, oneleg,a.hideous and dif-
gufting.ulcer. Manyof thefe iflanders. h:4 large fores,
which, itis poffible, might be a commencement of le-
profy, for I. remarked ;two men amongft them, whofe
ulcerated,;legs, as thick round,as their bay, left no
doubt. as to the nature oftheir malady. They ap-
proached us with fear, unarmed, and every thing be-
{peaks them as peaceable. as thofe of the Society, or
Friendly .Iflands.. We thought they were gone to
return/no,more; .our.regret for which, from. their ap-
parent: poverty, was but little: ‘but the. breeze having
much abated in the,afternoon, came the fame canoes,
accompanied by many. others, two leagues into,the
offing, to propofe, M they had gone on
fhore after quitting us, and returned, rather more ich.
ly laden than the firft time.. At this renewal of traffic,
we obtained. from the Iflanders many curiofities, rela-
tive to their drefs, five fowls, ten gallinules, a fmall
pig, and: the moft beautiful turtle-dove we .had ever
teen. It was white, its head-of the fineft violet, green
wings, and breaft fpeckled with fmall red and ,white
fpots, like the leaves. of the anemony. This little crea-
ture,was quite tame, eating out of the hand or,moyth;
but it:was not probable. that. it could be, broyght
alive:to Europe : infact, its death only permitted us
to preferve its plumage, which foon loft all its bright-
nefs,, -As the Aftrolabe had always been a-head of us
in. this route, the. canoes had all commenced, their
traffick with M. de Langle, who had purchafed of
the Indians two dogs, which we found very good.
Although the canoes of thefe Iflanders are all of
curious confiruction, and prove their fkill in work-
ing in wood, we could. never prevail upon them to
accept of our; hatchets, or any iron inftrument ; they
preferred glafs beads, which. could be of no ufe to
them, to all the.iron.and ftuffs we could offer. They
fold us. a wooden, veflel full of cocoa-nut oil :_it.was
fimilar: in fhape to .onc.of .our pipkins, and an. Euro-
Vox. IT, M pean
162 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE. [1787:
pean workman would never believe that it could have
been made otherwife than by a turning lathe. Their
_ropes are round, and twifted like our watch-chains ;
their mats are very fine, but their: ftuffs inferior in
colour and weft to thofe of the Eafter and Sand-
wich Iflands. It appeared, befides, that they were
uncommon, for all the Iflanders were completely
naked, and they fold us only two pieces. As we
were fure of meeting with an iffand of greater mag-
nitude. more to the weft, where we flattered: our-
felves we fhould at leaft find fome fhelter, though
there even fhould be no harbour, we prepared to
make more extenfive obfervations after our arrival
in that ifland, which, according to M. de Bougain-
ville’s plan, could only be divided from the laft iflot,
which we were a-breaft of at night-fall, by a channel
eight leagues wide. I ftood only three or four
leagues to the weftward after fun-fet, and pañled the
reft of the night ftanding off and on,- under eafy
fail. I was much farprifed when day broke to fee no
land to leeward, nor did I get fight of it till fix o'clock
in.the morning, from the channel being infinitely
wider than the one laid down in the chart whereb
I fteered! It were much to be wifhed, that the
charts of a voyage, which, for accuracy of ob-
fervation, and extent and importance of difcove- —
‘ties, is only fecond to thofe of Captain Cook: it
is much to be wifhed, I fay, that the particular
draughts had been made with more care, and on a
larger fcale.. CE
: We did not gain the north eafterly point of
Maouna Ifland until five o’clock in the evening.
‘It being my attention to look for an anchorage there,
I made a fignal to the Aftrolabe to haul to the wind,
that we might ftand to and fro to windward ‘of the
ifland, during the night, and have all the following
day to explore it in the moft trifling particulars. Al-
though 'three leagues from the fhore, three or four
‘ | canoes
(1787:
ild have
.. Their
chains ;
ferior in
d Sand-
ey were
npletely
As we
er mag-
ed. our-
though
Jared to
r arrival
jougain-
aft iflot,
channel
or four
fied the
Jer eafy
© fee no
o'clock
nfinitely
whereby
hat the
of ob-
look : it
articular
id on a
point of
evening.
e there,
1e wind,
“of the
cope à
rs. Al-
or four
canoes
difcove- |
1787.) ROUND THE WORLD, 163
canoes came on board the fame En à to bring us
pigs and fruit in éxchange for glafs beads, which gave
us the higheft opinion of the richnefs of that ifland..
On the morning of the oth, I approached the
land, and ran along the coaft, at half a league dif-
tant. It is furrounded by a reef of coral, on which
the fea broke with great force; but this reef almoft
joined the fhore, and the coaft formed feveral little
coves, in front of which were inlets where canoes’
could pafs, and probably our barges and long-boats.
At the bottom of each of thefe creeks we faw nu-
merous villages, whence came out canoes without
end, laden with pigs, cocoa-nuts, and other fruits, in
exchange for which we gave glafs trinkets.) So great
an abundance increafed my defire of coming to an
anchor there; befides, we faw water rolling in cafcades
from the tops of the mountains to the foot of the
villages. So many advantages did not make me very
difficult in the cheice of an anchoring place. I got
as near the coaft as poflible ; and at. four o'clock
having found, at a mile from the fhore, and in thirty
fathoms water, a bed of broken: fhells and very little
coral, we let go the anchor, but were tofled about by
a very heavy fwell, which fet towards the land, not-
withftanding the wind blew off fhore. We imme-
diately hoifted out our boats, and the fame day M.
de Langle and feveral officers, with three armed’ boats
from the two frigates, went on fhore at the village,
where they were received in the moft amicable man-
ner, Night coming on when they landed on. the
beach, the Indians lighted a great fire to make the
landing place clear: they brought birds, pigs, and
fruit. After Raying an hour our boats returned.
Every one feemed fatisfied with this reception, and
the only thing we regretted was being anchored in fo
bad a road-ftead, where the frigates rolled as if in
the open fea, Although fheltered from the eafterly
wind, the calm ‘was fufficient to expofe us to the
M 2 greateft
. 164 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787.
greateft danger if our cables fhould part’; andthe
FnpofGibility of getting wnder way, left us no refource
ainft à rather men | N. W: breeze. “We knew by
the accounts’ ofithofe navigators who had preceded
ais, that: the trade winds were by no means ‘conftant
dn thefedlatrtudes; that it is almoft as ‘eafy to get to
the caftward, as tothe weft, which facilitates ‘the long
runs thefe nations make to the leeward; burfelves
having ‘experienced this inconftancy of the winds, |
the wefterly breezes having only'‘left usin 12°, Thefe
reflections made me pafs'the night the more reftlefsly,
sa ftorm was rifing towards the north; from whence
the ‘winds ‘blow with great violence—happily the
‘land breeze ‘prevailed.
"m1 000 © Came
CHAP. XXIV.
MANNERS, DRESS, ARTS, AND CUSTOMS OF THE ISLAN-
‘ UDERS OF MAOUNA—“CONTRAST OF THIS SMILING
AND FERTILE COUNTRY WITH THE PEROCITY OF
‘ETS INHABITANTS=—THE SWELL BECOMING VERY
HEAVY, COMPELS Us TO GET UNDER WAY—M. DE
“LANGLE WANTING TO PROCURE WATER, LANDS
WITH FOUR ARMED BOATS—HE IS Is ASSASSINATED
—-ELEVEN PERSONS OF THE TWO SHIP'S COMPA-
NIES EXPERIENCE THE SAME FATE—CIRCUMSTAN-
TIAL NARRATIVE OF THIS EVENT.
N the morrow, the rifing of the fun announced
y afine day, of which I refolved to take advan-
tage to reconnoitre the country, obferve the inhabi-
tants in their own huts, fill water, and afterwards
get: under way, prudence: not. permitting me: to pais
a fecond ; night at this anchorage, which M: de
oLangle had dlikewife found’ too dangerous for a
oe ; : longer
[1787
ind ‘the
efource
new by
receded
onftant
) get to
he'long
urfelves
. Winds, |
, Thefe
sfllefsly,
whence
pily the
E ISLAN-
SMILING
ITY OF
G VERY
—M. DE
LANDS
SINATED
COMPA-
MSTAN-
nounced
e advan-
> inhabi-
terwards
> to pals
M: de
ns for a
longer
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 265
longer ftay, wherefore it was agreed that we-fhould
weigh in the afternoon, and that the morning, which
was very fine, fhould be partly employed in treating
for fruit and pigs. Ever fince day-break had: the
iflanders brought round the two frigates a hundred
canoes. full of different provifions, for which they
would receive nothing but beads in exchange: they
were to them the moft valuable Hamon, . Our
hatchets, ftuffs, and other articles of commerce,
they regarded with contempt. While one part of —
the crew was taken up with keeping the Indians. to-
rether, and carrying on: commerce with them, the
remainder filled the long-boats and barges with
empty cafks, to go and procure water. ur twa
armed, boats, mt by Mefiis. de Clonard
and Collinet; thofe of the Aftrolabe by Meñis.
Monti and Bellegarde, : fet off with this view, at five
o'clock in the morning, for a bay at the diftance of
about a league, and rather to windward ; a fituation
the more commodious, as our boats could fail back
with a free wind. I followed very clofe Meñis.
de Clonard and Monti in my bifcay yawl, and got
afhore at the fame time as them. : Unfortunately
M. de Lahgle would go in his jolly-boat to a fe-
cond creek, about a league from our watering
place; and this tour, from whence he returned en-
chanted with the beauty of the village which he had
vifited, was, as will be feen, the caufe of our mis-
fortunes. The creek, towards which our long-boats
ftcered, was large and convenient; the long-boats
and barges there remained afloat at low water, within
half a piftol-fhot from the beach ; the water was fine,
and eafy of accefs. Meflis. de Clonard and Monti
kept the beft order there. A line of foldiers was
pofted between the beach and the Indians, who were
in number about two hundred, among whom were
many women and children. We got them all to fit
down under fome cocoa-palms, at only about eight
- M3 , toifes
16 . LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787.
toifes from our long-boats. Each had by him fome
fowls, pigs, parroquets, pigeons, and fruit, which alf
wanting to difpofe of at the fame time, created fome
confufion. The women, fome of whom were very
pretty, offered, with their fruit and fowls, their fa-
vours to all fuch as had beads to give in return. -
They foon attempted to break through the line of
foldiers, who gave them too weak a repulfe to ftop
them. Their manners were foft, lively, and engaging.
Europeans who have been round the world, parti-
cularly Frenchmen, have no arms againft fuch kind
of attacks: they fucceeded, without much trouble,
in breaking through the ranks. The men next came
near, and the confufion increafed; but fome In-
dians, whom we took for Chiefs, made their appear-
ance, armed with clubs, and order was re-eftablith-
ed ; every one returned to his poft, and the traffic
recommenced, to the great fatisfaction of both
buyers and fellers. A circumftance had, however,
occurred in our long-boat, which was a real act of
hoftility, and which I would fain reprefs without
bloodfhed. An Indian had. got upon the ftern of
our boat, when, catching hold of a mallet, he gave
one of our failors feveral hard blows on the arms
and back. I ordered four of the ftrongeft marines
to lay hold of him, and fling him into the fea,
which they immediately did. ‘The other iflanders
appeared: to difapprove of their countryman’s con-
duct, and this fcuffle paffed off without any other
confequences. Perhaps an example of feverity was
neceflary to make a ftronger impreffion on thefe
. people, and let them know what power our arms had.
over their individual ftrength : for their height, about
five feet ten inches, their limbs ftrongly formed, and
‘ in the moft coloffal proportions, gave them an idea
of their own fuperiority, which did not render us
very formidable in their eyes; but having very
little time to ftay among thefe iflanders, I did _
thin
- on tk
whic
mufk
This
fear,
fentit
man,
tible.
W
trang
thou
the fi
midfi
were
place
fatho
vaft
ful ve
a de
men
houf
whic
from
huts,
1787.
1 fome
ich all
| fome
e very
eir fa-
‘eturn. -
line of
o ftop
aging.
parti-
h kind
rouble,
t came
ne In-
appear-
tablifh-
traffic
f both
owever,
| aét of
without
tern of
le gave
e arms
marines
he fea,
anders
*s con-
other
ity was
thefe
ms had.
, about
ed, and
an idea
der us
| ver
Nid nt
think
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 167
think myfelf juftified in infliing a more fevere
punifhment on him who had committed the of-
fence: at the fame time, to give them fome idea of
our power, I ordered three pigeons to be bought,
which were thrown up into the air, and killed by
mufket-fhot, in prefence of the whole affembly.
This act feemed to have infpired them with fome
fear, and, I muft own, I expected more from this
fentiment than from that of kindnefs, of which.
man, hardly out of the favage fiate, is rarely fufcep-
tible.
While every thing was going on with the greateft
tranquillity, and our: cafks were filling with water, I
thought I might walk about two hundred paces, for
' the fake of vifiting a charming village, fituated in the
midft of a wood or rather orchard, the trees in which
were weighed down by fruit. The houfes were
placed in the circumference of a circle, about 150
fathoms in : iameter, the centre of which formed a.
vaft open place, with a grafs-plat of the moft beauti-.
ful verdure ; the trees which overfhaded it, kept up
a delicious frefhnefs. Women, children, and old
men accompanied me; and invited me into their
houfes, there they fpread the fineft and frefheft mats
. on the ground, formed by fimall picked pebbles, and
which they had raifed about two feet to protect them
from the damp. I entered the handfomett of thete
huts, which probably belonged to the Chief, when how
great was my furprife, to fee a large room of lattice
work, equally well executed with any of thofe about
Paris. The beft architect could not have given a
more elegant curve to the extremities of the ellipfis
than terminated this cabin; a range of columns at five
feet diftance from each other was placed all round it
thefe columns were made of trunks of trees wrought
with great nicety, between which, fine mats, artfully
laid one on the other like the fcales of a fifh, were
clevated or let down by cords like our lattices, the
3 M 4 reft
168 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
_yeft of the lioufe was covered with Icaves of the co-.
Coa palin.
“This charming country united the twofold advantage
of a foil fertile without culture, and a climate which
required no cloathing. Bread fruit, coëva-nut, bana,
na, gouvas, arid orange trees furnifhed' this fortunate
péôple with abundance of wholefome nourifhment ;
while fowls, pigs and dogs, which live on the refufe
of thefe fruits, afforded them an agreeable variety of
meats. They were fo rich,-and in want of fo little,
that they difdained our inftruments of iron and ftuffs,
atid would only have beads: burthened. with real
goods, they only wifhed for ufelefs things. >
They had fold at our market more than two hun-
dred tamé wood pigeons, which would only eat out
of thé hand ; they had alfo given us in exchange the
moft charming turtle dovés and parroquets, equal
tame with the pigeons. . What imagination could
not figure to itfelf the happinefs of fo delicious an
abode! Thefe Iflanders, were we inceflantly repeat-
ig, afé undoubtedly the moft happy inhabitants of
the earth ; furrounded by their wives and their chil-
dren, they enjoy, in the midft of repofe, days of pu-
fity and tranquillity ; their only care is to bring up
bitds, and, like the firft Adam, to gather without
labour, the fruits which grow-over their heads. We
deceivéd ourfelves : this beautiful abode was not the
manfion of innocence : we perceived, it is true, no
arms, but the bodies of thefe Indians covered with
{cars, proved that they muft be at war, or quarrel
among themfelves, and their countenances befpoke
a ferocity imperceptible in the phyfiognomy of the
Women. Nature had without doubt, left this ftamp
dn the figure of the Indians to denote that man, al-
moft wild, and in a ftate of anarchy, is a being more
mifchievous than the fierceft of the animal creation.
This firft vifit pañléd off without any difpute ca-
pable of bringing on dreadful confequences ; I, how-
: fe ever,
1787.
ever,
but tl
* Rollir
ftones
Monr
and tl
fright
I obfe
turbu
chiefs
felicit
the pe
noon
boats
along
two fi
had g
M, B
to act
Iflanc
it, ac
quart
whom
told
ing ¢
when
ours,
the c
ples
viole:
mea
the p
beco
chie
moft
with
feren
befo
(1787.
antage
> which
9 bana- 4
rtunate
ment ;
refufe
th real
vo hun-
eat out
ge the
equal
| could
fous an
repeat-
‘ants of
ir chil-
3 of pu-
ring up
without
3 We
not the
‘ve, no
ed with
quarrel
Jefpoke
of the
s ftamp
jan, al-
g more
‘eation.
ute ca-
I, how-
ever,
the co.
1787. | ROUND: THE WORLD. 169.
ever, was informed there had been paras quarrels,
but that great prudence had donc them away : M.
* Rollin. our - furgeon-major had been pelted with
ftones ; an: Iflander, under pretence of admiring M.
Monneron’s fword, attempted to wrench it from him,
and the feabbard only having come off, he ran away
frightened to death at the fight of the naked blade.
I obferved that thefe iflanders were in general very
turbulent, and paid very little attention to ,their
chiefs ; but as I meant to fet off in the afternoon, I -
felicitated myfelf in not having given importance to
the petty vexations we had experiencéd. Towards
noon I returned on. board in my Bifcay yawl, and the
boats followed me very clofe; it was difficult to get
alongfide becaufe of the canoes which furrounded the
two frigates, and our market not being exhaufted, I
had given the command of the frigates in charge to:
M, Boutin when I went on fhore, and left it to him
to act as he fhould think proper, in permitting the
Iflanders to come on board, or abfolutely forbidding
it according to circumftances. I found on the
quarter deck feven or eight Indians, the oldeft of
whom was introduced to me as a chief. M. Boutin
told me, that he could not prevent them from get-
ing on board without giving orders to fire; that
when they compared their bodily ftrength with
ours, they derided our threats, and made a joke of
the centinels ; that on his fide, knowing my princi-
ples of moderation, he was not willing to employ
violent means, which notwithfianding, were the only
means that could refirain them: he added, that fince
the prefence of the chief, the Iflanders on board had
become more orderly and lefs infolent. I made the
chief many preients, and gave him proofs of the ut-
moft kindnefs: wifhing afterwards to infpire him
with a high opinion of our ftrength, I ordered dif-
ferent proofs of the ufe of our arms to be made
before him: but their effect made little or no im-
preflion
170 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787,
preffion on him, and he feemed to think they were
only fit for killing birds. Our boats arrived laden
with water, and I difpofed every thing for weigh-
ing, and taking patie, i of a gentle land breeze,
which made us hope to have time for getting a little
further off the coaft; M. de Langle returned at
the fame time from his excurfion; he told me that
he landed in a fine cove for boats, fituated at the
foot of a delightful village, and near a cafcade of
the moft limpid water.
In going on board he had given orders for getting
under way, perceiving, like me, the neceflity for it :
but he infifted, in the moft pofitive manner, upon our
ftretching off and on a league from the coaft, and pro-
curing a few long-boat loads of water, before finally
bidding adieu to the ifland. In vain I reprefented to
him that we were not in the leaft want of it : he had
adopted Capt. Cook’s fyftem, and thought that water
recently taken on board was a hundred times prefer-
able to that which we had in the hold ; and as fome of
his fhip’s company fhewed flight fymptoms of fcurvy,
he thought, with reafon, that it was our duty to give
them every poffible comfort. Befides, no ifland could
ftand in competition with this for abundance of provi-
fions ; the two frigates having already trafficked for
500 pigs, a great quantity of fowls, pigeons, and fruit,
and all at the expence only of a few beads of glafs.
Ï at once faw the truth of thefe reflections, but a
fecret foreboding at firft prevented my acquiefcence.
E told him that I found thefe iflanders too turbulent
to rifk fending our boats on fhore, where they could
not be fupported by the fire of the fhips; that our
moderation had only ferved to increafe the confi-
dence of the Indians, who only calculated on our
_perfonal ftrength, far inferior to their own. But
nothing could fhake M. de Langle’s refolution, who
told me that my oppofition made me refponfible for
the progrefs of the fcurvy, which began to make its
appearance
1787.]
appear
x he
comme
he bep
expedi
return
M. de
city, t
motive
ive U
that
the mi
fhould
per, a
The e
to get
found
in the
been ¢
aftern
athore
till th
the w
about
morn
and i
light
to co
were
long
tin ar
ut t
fl t
were
the 1
tainc
fillec
elth
(1787,
hey were
ed laden
r weigh.
breeze,
g a little
rned at
me that
d at the
afcade of
getting
y for it:
pon our
and pro-
finally
ented to
he had
at water
s prefer-
s fome of
f fcurvy,
y to give
id could
of provi-
cked for
nd fruit,
glafs,
, but a
efcence.
rbulent
y could
hat our
> confi-
on our
. But
n, who
ible for
lake its
>arance
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 171
appearance with fufficient violence, and that, befides,
the harbour of which he fpoke was much more
commodious than our former watering place. At laft
he begged me to give him leave to head the firft
expedition, affuring me that in three hours he would
return on board, with all the boats filled with water.
M. de Langle was a man of fuch judgment and capa-
city, that thefe confiderations, more than any other
motive, determined my affent, or rather made me
give up my own will to his ; I therefore promifed him
that we would ftand off and on all night; that on
the morrow, our two long-boats and our two barges
fhould be expedited, armed as he might judge pro-
er, and that the whole fhould be under his orders.
The event completed our conviction that it was time
to get under way ; for, on taking up the anchor, we
found one ftrand of the cable cut by the coral, and
in the courfe of two hours the whole cable would have
been cut. As we did not fet fail till four o’clock in the
afternoon, it was too late to. think of fending the boats
afhore, and their departure was accordingly deferred
till the following day. ‘The night being ftormy, and
the winds changing every inftant, refolved me to get
about three leagues diftant from the coaft. In the
morning the dead calm would not let me approach,
and it was not before nine o’clock that there arofe a
light breeze from the north-eaft, that enabled me
to come near the ifland, from which, at eleven, we
were only one fhort league. I then difpatched my
long boat and my barge, commanded by Meffis. Bou-
tin and Mouton, on board the Aftrolabe, with orders to
put themfelves under the command of M. de Langle;
all thofe who were flightly infected with fcurvy,
were put on board, as well as fix armed foldiers, with
the mafter at arms at their head ; the two boats con-
tained 28 men, and carried about 20 empty cafks to be
filled with water. Meffrs. de Lamanon and Colinet,
although far from well, were among the number of
thofe
172 _ LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE F178,
thofe who. left the Bouffole.. On the other hand, M,
de Vaujuas, a convalefcent, accompanied M. de
Langle in his barge ; M. le Gobien, a midfhipman,
commanded the long-boat ; and, Meflis. de Ig
Martinière, Lavaux, and Father Receveur, made
part of the 33 perfons fent from the Aftrolabe—
- Among the 61 individuals compofing the whole ex.
pedition, were the choiceft men of our crews. M.
de Langle armed the whole with mufkets and cut.
Jaffes, and fix fwivels were mounted in the long-boats;
I left it to him to do whatever he might think necef-
fary for his fafety. The certainty of having had no
difpute with thele people, for which they could har-
bour revenge, the immenfe quantity of canoes which
furrounded us in the offing, the air of gaiety and
confidence which prevailed in our traffick, all tended
to increafe his. fecurity ; and. I, confefs that it was
not greater than mine : but it was contrary to my
principles to fend boats afhore, without extreme ne-
ceffity, and. particularly in the midft of a numerous
people, which could neither be fupported nor even
feen by our fhips. The boats put off from the
Aftrolabe at half paft twelve at noon, and in lefs
than three. quarters.of an hour arrived at the water-
ing place. How great was the furprife of all the
officers, and of M. de Langle himfelf, to find, inftead
of a large and commodious bay, a creek almoft choked
up with coral, which could only be entered by a wind-
ing channel, lefs than 25 feet in width, where the furf
broke as upon abar! When they were within, they
did not find three feet water; the long-boats got
a-ground, and the barges were only kept a-float by be
ing hauled up to the mouth of the channel, far enough
from the beach. Unfortunately, M. de Langle had
explored this bay at high water, and did not fup-
pofe that in thefe iflands the tide rofe five or fix
fect; he thought that his eyes deceived him, His
firft: movement was to quit this bay, for that where
we
ng-boats:
ink necef.
ig had no
ould har-
oes which
aiety and
all tended
at it was
ry to my
reme ne-
iumerous
nor even
from the
d in lefs
he water-
of all the
1, inftead
ft choked
y a wind-
e the furf .
hin, they
oats got
oat by be
r enough .
ngle had
not fup-
ve or fix
m, His
at where
; we
1787.) ROUND THE WORLD. 173
we had already taken in water, and which compre-
bended the dns advantages: but the air of tran-
quility,- and : mildnefs .of the people who were in
waiting on the beach; with. an immenfe quantity of
fruit and pigs; the, women ‘and children he re-
marked, among the iflanders, who always take cave
to fend them out of the way when they have any
hoftile views ; all thefe circumftances pu made
his firft ideas of prudence vanifh, which an incon-
ceivable fatality prevented him from following. He
‘put the water cafks on fhore from the four boats, with
the greateft tranquillity,; his foldiers jeftablithed the
beft order on the beach, where they formed a line, .
which. left plenty of room for our people, : But
. this.;calm was hot of long duration, many. of the
canoes which had difpofed of their provifions toiour
fhips, were returned on fhore, all of which reforted
to the bay where they were taking in water, fo that
by degrees it was full: inftead of 200 ithabitants,
including women and children, which M. de Langle
found affembled on: his arrival at ‘half paft one, et
three o’clock there were 10 or 1200.. The number
of canoes which had traded with us in'the morning,
was fo confiderable, that we had fcarcely perceived
their diminution in.'the afternoon; I gave myfelf
credit for keeping’ them engaged on board, hoping
that our boats would thereby meet'with lefs interrup-
tion: my error was great; the fituation of M.deLangle
became more embarrafling every moment ; feconded
by Mefirs. de Vaujuas, Boutin, Colinet, and: Gou-
bien, he however fucceeded in fhipping his waters
but the bay was :almoft dry, and he could not.ex-
pect to get his long-boats afloat before four o'clock
in the afternoon ; he neverthelefs went on board, as
well as his detachment, and took his fiation in the
bow, with his mufket and fafileers, forbidding them
to fire without orders. He, neverthelefs, began to
perceive that he fhould foon-be forced to doit: ‘the
; fiones
174 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787,
ftones already flew about, and thefe Indians, the
water only reaching up to their knees, furrounded
_ the boats, at lefs than a toife difiant; the efforts
of the foldiers who were embarked, to‘difperfe them,
‘were in vain. Ifthe fear of commencing hoftilities,
and being accufed of barbarity, had not checked
M. de Langle, he would have affuredly ordered a
difcharge, both’ from the mufquetry and fwivels, to
be madc on the Indians, which would certainly have
kept the multitude at a diftance ; but he flattered
himfelf that he fhould be able to reftrain them with.
out fhedding blood, and fell a victim to his own
humanity. A fhower of ftones, thrown from a very
fhort diftance, with all the ftrength of a fling, foon
reached almoft all thofe whowere in the long-boat. M.
de Langle had only time to fire his mufket twice, when
he was knocked down, and unfortunately fell over the
larboard fide, when more than 200 Indians immedi-
ately maflacred him with clubs and ftones. When he
was dead, they tied him by one ‘of his arms, toa
row-lock of the boat, for the purpofe of profiting, no
doubt, of his fpoils. The long-boat of the Boufiole,
commanded by M. Boutin, was a-ground, two toifes
from that of the Aftrolabe, leaving, in a parallel line
between them, a little channel, unoccupied by the
Indians, whereby all the wounded who were fortu-
nate enough not to fall on the off fide, faved
themfelves by fwimming; they reached our barges,
which very fortunately remaining a-float, were the
means of faving 49 men out of the 61 compofing the
expedition. M. Boutin had imitated all the move-
ments, and followed all the fteps of M. de Langle;
his water cafks, his detachment, and all his people,
had been embarked at the fame time, and he pofted
himfelf in the fame manner in the bow of the long-
boat. Although apprehenfive of the dreadful confe-
quences of M. de Langle’s moderation, he did not
fuffer himfelf, nor order his detachment to fire, sha
aiter
down |
1787..]
after hi
diftanc
brough
load ag
long-bi
nutes, |
faved t
each fe
the otl
on the
inftant
But
Iflande
got on
dred ; :
pieces
took n
Meñrs.
mainde
remain
who ha
blows «
barges,
killed |
any thi
that th
exhauft
could r
a numl
tended
full ple
good o
ferved |
flole’s |
owe th
wound:
kept ak
L1787,
lians, the
rrounded
1e. efforts
rfe them,
0ftilities,
checked
dered a
vivels, to
inly have
flattered
em with.
his own
ym a very
ing, foon
boat. M.
ice, when
| over the
immedi-
W hen he
rms, toa
fiting, no
Boufiole,
wo toifes
allel line
d by the
re fortu-
le, faved
r barges,
were the
ofing the
he move-
Langle ;
is people,
ne pofted
the long-
ul confe-
» did not
ire, until
after
1787.) ROUND THE WORLD. 175
after his commander. It may be fuppofed, that at the
diftance of four or five paces, every fhot muft have
brought down an Indian, but they had not time to
load again. M. Boutin was, in like manner, knocked
down by a ftonc ; he fortunately fell between the two
long-boats, on board of which, in lefs than five mi-
nutes, not a fingle man remained. Thofe who had
faved themfelves by fwimming to thé two barges, had
each feveral wounds, moftly on the head; thofe on
the other hand, who had the misfortune to fall over
on the fide of the Indians, were put an end to in an
inftant, by their clubs. | | ie
But fuch was their rage for pillage, that thofe
Iflanders ran to take poffeffion of the long-boats, and
got on board to the number of three or four hun-
dred ; they broke up the feats, and pulled the infide to
pieces in fearch of our fuppofed riches. They then
took no further notice of our barges, which gave
Mefirs, Vaujuas and Mouton time to fave the re-
mainder of the people, and to be fure that none
remained in the power of the Indians, befides thofe
who had been maflacred and killed in the water, by
blows of their patows. Thofe who were on board our
barges, and who had till then been firing upon and
killed many of the Iflanders, no longer thought of
any thing but throwing their water-cafks into the fea,
that the boats might hold them all ; befides they had
exhaufted moft of their ammunition, and the retreat
could not be effected without difficulty, with fo great
a number of perfons dangeroufly wounded, who, ex-
tended on the thwarts, prevented the oars from having
full play. To the wifdom of M. de Vaujuas, the
good order he eftablifhed, and the punctuality ob-
ferved by M. Mouton, who commanded the Bouf-
flole’s boat, 49 perfons of the two fhips’ companies
owe their prefervation. M. Boutin who had five
wounds in the head, and one in the ftomach, was
kept above water by the coxfivain of the long-boat,
. who
176 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE ‘ =‘ [ 1787,
who wus himfelf.wourded:. : M. Colinet:was found
lying almoft lifelefs on the grapnel rope of the-barge,
withonearm fraGtured, a finger:broke,:andtwo wounds
in the head. M. Lavaux, furgeon-major of the Aftro-
labe, was fo badly wounded, that itwas neceflary to tre.
pan him ; he had neverthelefs fwam tothe boats as
well as M. dela Martiniére and Father Receveur, who
had received a violent contufion in theieye. M. de
Lamanon :and de ‘Langle were maffacred with unex.
ampled batbarity, as well as Talim, mafter at arms of
the Bouflole, ‘and nine others of the two fhips’:com-
panies. The ferocious Indian after having ‘killed
them, yet fought to wreak his ‘fury on :their lifelefs
” earcafes with ‘clubs. :M. le Gobien, who commanded
the Aftrolabe’s long-+boat-under the orders | of M. de
Langle, did not ‘quit it before'he: found himfelf left
alone ; after having ufed all his ammunition, ‘he leapt
‘into the water on ‘the:fide of the channel formed, by
the two ‘boats, which, as T'before:faid, was not pot-
feffed by the Indians ;:and, notwithfiandinghiswounds,
fucceeded in faving himfelf in one of the barges; that
of the Afirolabe was fo deeply Jaden that it grounded,
which gave the ‘Iflanders an idea‘of harvaffing the |
avounded in their retreat ; they came down in great
numbers towards'the reefs at the entrance of the cove,
which the barges-were under the neceflity of paffing at
the diftance of about'ten feet, The little ammunition
that remained: was exhaufted on the’ furious. crowd,
and the boats at length got out of this den, more
dreadful by its perilous fituation, and the cruelty of
its inhabitarits, than the haunt of lions and tygers.
At five o’clock: they arrived on: board, and gave us
‘the recital of this difaftrous event. ‘At that moment
we had round us 100 canoes, the natives in which,
‘were felling ‘their provifions with a fecurity which
proved their innocence : but they ‘were the brothers,
‘children, and fellow countrymen. of thefe: barbarous
<affaffins ; and I confefs, [had recourfe to ‘all my er
! | on,
178;
fon,
previ
Alre
ing :
were
fingl
give
noe f
with
a fing
the q
was b
row,
to jui
remai
his in
It:
exped
recov
appro
only :
fettins
the cr
bight
appro:
ftill ke
vigou
tion of
run aj
turn,
fea-fi
would
toa
being
was ne
tage o
M de
not, ho
Vou
(787,
was found
the-barge,
Jo wounds
he \Aftro-
ary to tre-
2 boats ag
veur, who
.. M. de
th unex-
at arms of
hips’:com-
ing ‘killed
eir Jifelefs
ymmanded
of M. de
imfelf left
n, ‘he:leapt
formed) by
1s not pof-
iswounds,
rges; that
grounded,
vaffing the .
n in great
f the cove,
fpaflingrat
nmunition
bus. crowd,
den, more
cruelty of
ind tygers.
nd gave us
at moment
s in which,
rity which
he: brothers,
| barbarous
all my:rea-
fon,
1787.| ROUND THE WORLD. Bae
fon, to reftrain the rage which animated me, and to
revent our fhip's companies from murdering them.
Already were the foldiers unlafhing the guns and fly-
ing to arms: I .checked thefe movements, which
were neverthelefs very pardonable, and ordered: a
fingle gun, loaded only with powder, to be fired, to
give notice to the canoes to keep off. A finall ca-
noe from the coaft, probably made them acquainted
with what had happened ; for in lefs than an hour not
a fingle one was to be ‘feen. - An Indian who was on
the quarter: deck of my. frigate when our boat arrived,
was by “iny orders arrefted and put in irons’; the mor-
row, having gone nearer’ the coaft, I gave. him leave
to jump into the fea: the confidence’with which: he
remained in the frigate being an unequivocal proof of
his innocence. Ft:
It was my firft intention to give orders for a new
expedition, to avengc-my unhappy companions, and
recover the wrecks of the boats. With this view, I
approached the coaft in fearch of an anchorage ; ‘but I’
only found the fame bottom of coral, with a fwell
fetting ‘in fhore and breaking on the reefs; befides,
the creek where the maflacre took place, was a deep
bight in the ifland, and feemed fcarcely poffible to
approach within gun fhot. M. Boutin, whofe wounds
fill kept him: to his bed, but whofe mind was in full
vigour, reprefented to me alfo, that fuch was the fitua-
tion of the bay, that fhould our boats unfortunately
run aground, it was probable not a man would re-
turn, for the trées which grow almoft clofe to the
fea-fide, fheltering the Indians from our mufquetry, .
would leave fuch as might be difembarked, expofed
to a fhower of ftones, the more difficult to avoid, as
being flung with great power and fkill; their effect
was nearly the fame as our balls, and had the advan-
tage over them of coming in more rapid fucceffion.
M. de Vaujuas was alfo of the fame opinion. I would
not, however, give my aflent, until thoroughly convin-
Vox. II. N ced
178 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787.
ced of the impoffibility of anchoring within gun thot
of the village. I paffed two days in plying before
the bay, where I ftill faw to windward, the wrecks of
our long-boats aground: on the fand, and an immenfe
number of Indians round them, What appeared
very unaccountable was, that during this time 5 or 6
canoes put off from the coaft, and came with pigs,
pigeons, and cocoa nuts to offer us in exchange: I
was every moment under the neceffity of reprefling
my anger, not to order them to be funk. , Thefe In-
dians, ignorant of our having any arms that could
carry further than our mufkets, remained without
fear 50 toifes from our fhips, and offered their pro-
vifions with the moft perfect fecurity. Our geftures
not encouraging their approach, they thus pañed a
whole hour in the afternoon of the 12th December.
Raillery fucceeded their offers of traffick, and I foon
perceived many other canoes detached from the bank
to join them, As they thought themfelves fecure
from our guns, and every thing evinced that I muft
fpon be obliged to lay afide my principles of modera-
tion, I ordered a gun to be fired in the midft of them.
My orders were executed with the greateft precifion ;
the ball dafhed the water into the canoes, which in a
moment haftened to fhore, drawing with them in
their flight thofe who had juft quitter it.
It grieved me to tear myfelf from fo horrible a
place, and leave the bodies of my murdered compa-
nions behind ; I loft an old friend, a man of fenfe,.
judgment and information, and one of the beft offi-
cers in the French navy ; his humanity was the caufe
of his death: could he but have brought himfelf to
have given orders to fire upon thofe Indians who
firft entered the water to furround his boats, his lofs,
that of M. de Lamanon, and the ten other viétims of
Indian brutality, would never have happened : befides
twenty others, who were grievoufly wounded. Thus
this event deprived us for a time of 32 men, and the
box À . two
178
two
cont
of 1
guid
woul
man
on be
into
ing {
fink
than
in m:
{cient
recita
Cook
the be
matte
hands
the ca
borde.
at fea
from t
{well
doubt
chains
of the
the ca
frigate
haufte
this
that ©
dition
fuccefs
Was no
boats
means
on the
bearing
(1787.
un fhot
y before
recks of
mimenfe
ppeared
e 5 or6
th pigs,
ange: I
prefling
“hefe In-
at could
without
heir pro-
-geftures
pañled a
ecember.
id I foon
the bank
es fecure
it I muft
- modera-
of them.
precifion ;
hich in a
them in
orrible a
l compa-
of fenfe,.
beft offi-
the caufe
imfelf to
jans who
, his lofs,
iétims of
+: befides
Thus
, and the
two
1787] ROUND THE WORLD. ‘179
two long-boats, which were the only ones capable of
containing any number of armed men for the purpofe
of making a defcent. Thefe confiderations were a
guide for my future conduct, and the fmalleft check
would have obliged me to burn one of the frigates to
man the other. I had indeed the frame of a long-boat
on board, but I could not put it together without going
into port. To have fatisfied my revenge in mafiacre-
ing fome Indians, I muft at fame time have deftroyed
funk, or blown to pieces 100 canoes, containing more
than 500 fouls; but I was afraid of being deceived
in marking out my victims, and the diétates of con-
fcience preferved their lives. Thofe in whom this
recital may call to mind the cataftrophe of Captain
Cook, mutt recollect that his fhips were moored in
the bay of Karakakooa: that their guns made them
matters of the fea-fhore: that the law was in their own
hands, and they could threaten with deftruétion all
the canoec :eft on the beach, as well as the villages
bordering on the coaft: we were, on the contrary,
at fea out of gun fhot, obliged to keep at a diftance
from the coaft, for fear of being becalmed; a heavy
{well always carried us towards the reefs, where we
doubtlefs might have anchored with iron mooring
chains, but even this was out of the reach of gun fhot
of the village ; in fhort, the fwell was fufficient to cut
the cable at the hawfe-holc, and thereby expofe the
frigates to the moft imminent danger. I thus ex-
haufted very calculation of probability before I left
this fatal ifland ; and it was clearly demonftrated
that anchoring was impracticable, and the expe-
dition rafh, without the affiftance of the frigates :
fuccefs had even been of no avail, as there certainly
was not a man left alive in the Indians’ power, our
boats were broken up and aground, and we had the
means of replacing them on board. I confequently
on the 13th, fteered for a third ifland which I faw
bearing W. by N, W., and which, owing to bad
N2 weather,
180 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787.
weather, M. Bougainville had only feen from the
maft head ; a channel, nine leagues in width, fepa-
rates it from that of Maouna. The Indians had
given us the names of the ten iflands thaticom-
pofed their archipelago: as alfo a rude fketch on
paper of their fituation ; this, although it cannot be
depended upon, renders it neverthelefs probable,
that the people of thefe different iflands form a kind
of confederacy, and frequently hold communications
with each other. Our later difcoveries did not leave
a doubt of this archipelago being more confiderable
both in population and abundance of provifions, than
that of the Society Iflands; it is probable even that
there may be good anchorage: but having no long-
boat, and fecing what a ftate of ferment the crews were
in, I refolved to come no more to an anchor until my
arrival at Botany Bay, in New Holland, where I pro-
-pofed building a new long-boat with the frame I had
on board. I wifhed, neverthelefs, for the advance-
ment of gcography, to explore the different iflands
T might fall in with, and determine their exa¢t longi-
tude and latitude: I likewife hoped to traffick with
the Indians, by ftanding off and on near their iflands,
I willingly leave to others the trouble of writing an
uninterefting hiftory of thefe barbarians. A ftay of
24 hours, and narrative of our misfortunes, are fuf-
ficent to fhew their atrocious manners, their arts,
and the productions of one of the fineft countries
under heaven.
Before I continue the account of our track along
the iflands of the archipelago, I think it proper to
give the narrative of M. de Vaujuas, who commanded
the retreat from the bay of Maouna, and although he
only went afhore as a convalefcent and not upon duty,
circumftances gave him firength, and he did not leave
the bay before he was well aflured that not a fingle _
Frenchman remainedalive inthe power of the Indians.
Narra-
[1787.
from the
th, fepa-
ians had
at:com-
etch on
annot be
probable,
m a kind
nications
not leave
fiderable
ns, than
ven that
no long-
rews were
until my
re I pro-
me I had
advance-
nt iflands
1¢t_ longi-
fick with
ir iflands,
vriting an
À ftay of
, are fuf-
their arts,
countries
ack. along
proper to
mmanded
hough he
pon duty,
| not leave
t a fingle ©
e Indians.
Narra-
The Latitude of the Anchoring Place 14.11 48S.
and the Longitude 186: 40 57 East.
23. acl’
" f reek duMals Ms
J0
y ? +
ha! rCreek
Coral 35 Coral
JAfs ie Bay 54
PART
of the
Island of
MAoOUNA,.
Position of | the Long Boats
«Barges of the French
Frigates atthe time of
the Mais acre.
aBoussoles longBoat
B.L'Astrotabes a? ad?
ClaBoussoles Barge of the Creek
D.LAstrolabes a’ :
Du MASSACRE,
Scale of Toises
0 00
Publishd July 20/1798.6y TS tockdale.
PART
of the
sland of
AOU NA,
Pian
the Creek
AS SACRE,
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD.
NARRATIVE OF M. DE VAUJUAS,
5 Sunday the 11th: December at 11 o’clock in the
«forénoon, M: de la Péroufe fent his long boat and
« barge, laden with water-cafks, witha detachment of
“ armed foldiers, to make part of an’ expedition under
« the command of M. de Langle, ‘M. Boutin had al-
“ready received inftruétions rélative to the means of
“ keeping order, and providing for our fecurity when
“ the boats fhould reach the fhore. At the fame hour
“ our captain hoifted out his buats, and likewife had
“ flowed them with water-cafks ‘and provided with
“arms. At half patt twelve, the frigates'heing thre€
“ quarters of a Icague from fhore, on the larboard
“ tacks, the boats put off to water in a creek which
“had been reconnoitred by M. de Langle: | “This
“ watering place was to leeward of that where they had
“before been, M. de Langle having thought it pre-
“ ferable from its appearing leis inhabited and equally
‘ commodious ; but the former had the advantage of
# a more eafy entrance, and fufficient depth of water
“ for the boats to run no rifk of getting aground.
M. de Langle propofed to me, although a con-
% valefcent and very weak, to accompany: him, and
“ walk anid take the air on fhore ; he took the:com-
“ mand of the barge himfelt; entrufting the long-boat
“ to the care of M. le Gobien. That of the Bouffole
“© was commanded by M. Boutin, and the barge by
“M. Mouton. M. Colinet and Father Receveur,
“ both invalids; Metlieurs de Lamaron!, la Mar-
“tinière and Lavaux, accompanied us, as well as
“ fevéral others from the two frigates ; making, the
“two barges crews included, a detachment of ay
“ one perfons.
“When on cur way, we faw with concern a great
* part of the canoes along fide the thip follow us, and
“ come into the fame creek ; we alfo faw along thé
N 3 “ rocks
182 LA PERQUSE'§ VOYAGE L1787.
“ rocks which divide it from the neighbouring bays,
‘ many natives who had affembled from the villages,
“ arriving at the reef which forms the creck of the
* watering place, and leaves but a narrow and fhal-
“ low paflage for boats, we found it was low water, and
“ that the boats could not enter without running
“ aground, this they accordingly did at half a mufket
“¢ fhot from the beach, which we could only get near
* by pufhing them forward with our oars. This bay
‘ had been feen by the captain in the moft fayour-
‘ able point of view, from the tide when he examined
“ it not being fo low.
‘ The favages, on our arrival, who lined the coaft
* to the number of feven or eight hundred, threw inte
the water many branches of the tree, from which the
“¢ iflanders of the South Sea extract their intoxicat-
‘ ing beverage, asa token of peace. On landing, M.
“de Langle gave orders that each boat fhould be
‘ guarded by an armed foldier and failor, while the
* crews of the long-boats were employed in filling
‘ water, under the protection of a double line of muf-
‘ queteers, who extended from the boats to the water-
“ ing place, The cafks were filled and quietly put on
“ board, the iflanders being keptin tolerable awe bythe
“ foldiers : there was among them a certain number
“ of women, and very young girls, who offered them-
“ felves to us in the moft indecent manner, and
“whofe advances were not altogether rejected; we
‘ faw but few children there.
. © Towards the end of our work ‘the natives in-
6. creafed in number, and became more troublefome,
which circumftance determined M. de Langle
to give up his firft idea of trafficking for provi-
5 fions with them, and he gave orders for embark-
“ ing immediately; but before this,.and what I
think. was the origin of our misfortune, hé, pre-
fented fome beads to a kind of Chiefs, who. had
contributed in keeping the iflanders at a little dif-
‘ tance.
L1787.
x bays,
illages,
of the
d fhal-
ter, and
upning
mufket
ret near
his bay
fayour-
amined
he coaft
ew inte
hich the
toxicat-
ing, M.
uld be
vile the
filling
of muf-
> water-
put on
e bythe
number.
| them-
er, and
ds; we
ves in-
lefome,
Langle
provi-
mbark-
what I
1¢) pre-
ho. had
ttle dif-
‘ tance.
h |
ity
COTA)
4 Hi |
i fe
i ‘411
i À | i,
| | Ni
i Ae,
|
ve 1) Hi 4 i
ih qa ch
Hits ih
1787.) ROUND THE WORLD; ‘187
« tance. : We were, for all that, certain that:this
i“ i mere mockery ; and that if thefe Chiefs
“) had any actual authority, it extended only over
4 very few. ‘Fhefe prefents, diftributed to five or
fix individuals, excited the difcontent of all the
others: From that time:a general murmur arofe,
and it was no longer in our power to keep thern
quiet: they notwithtianding let us get into our
boats, but part of them followed us into the wu-
ter, while the others collected flones on the
beach.
“As the boats were aground at a little diftance from
the firand, we were obliged to go up toour middlés
in water to get at them, in doing which many fol-
diers wetted their arms. In this critical fituation
coinmeticed the horrid feene of which I am go-
ing to fpeak. Hardly had we got into the boats,
when M. de Langle gave orders for pufhing therh
off and taking up the grapnel, which many ro-
buft iflanders refifted, by laying hold of the rope.
The captain being witnefs to this refiftance, feeing
the tumult increafe, and fome ftones having
reached him, fired his gun into the air, to endea-
your'to intimidate them ; which, fo far from fuc-
cceding, they made the fignal for a general at-
tack. A fhower of ftones, thrown with equal
force and celerity, poured down upon us; the
combat on both fides commenced, and became ge-
neral. Thofe whofe muikcts would go off,
brought many of thefe ferocious Indians to the
ground, but the others fhewing not the leaft
concern, feemed to redouble their vigour; one
party of whom approached the boats, whilit the
others, to the amount of fix or feven hundred,
continued to ftone us in the moft dreadful and
murderous manner.
« On the firft act of hoftility I threw myfelf into
the fea, to get to the Aftrolabe’s boat, which was
deftitute of officers. The circumftance of the
N 4 ‘ moment
184 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
moment gave me ftrength for the fhort diftance I
* had to go; and notwithfianding my weak ftate,
‘ and fome blows I had received from ftones at the
“ time, I got on board without any affiftance. I
‘6 faw, with defpair, that there was fcarce a mufket
« but was wet, and that all that I could do was to
endeavour to get her afloat as foon as poffible,
without the reef. The combat, however, went on ;
and. the enormous ftones flung by the favages,
were always wounding fome of us; and when-
ever a wounded man fell overboard by the fide
where the favages were, he was inftantly put an
end to with clubs or paddles. |
M. de Langle fell the firft victim to thefe bar-
barians, whom he had never treated otherwife
than well. At the beginning of the attack he was
knocked, bleeding, over the bow of the boat,
where he was fianding, into the fea, together
with the mafter at arms and carpenter, who were
both at his fide. The fury with which they threw
themfelves on the captain, faved the two latter,
who fucceeded in gaining the barge. Thofe who
were in the long-boats foon underwent the fame
fate as our unhappy chief, except a few, who,
by efcaping their obfervation, were enabled to
‘ reach the reef, from whence they fwam towards
‘ the barges. Within four minutes had the iflanders
‘ made themfelves mafiers of the two long-boats, and
I had the pain of feeing my unfortunate companions
‘murdered, without being able to give them the
* leaft affiftance. The Aftrolabe’s barge was fill
within the reef, and I waited in momentary ex-
pectation of fecing it undergo the fate of the long-
boats; but the avidity of the iflanders faved it, the
“ greater number precipitating themfelves into the
“ Jong-boats, and the others contenting themfelves
« with pelting us with ftones: many, however, waited
‘¢ for us at the mouth of the chant and on the reets.
‘ Although
[1787.
tance J
< flate,
$s at the
nee, I
mufket
was to
offible,
nt on ;
avages,
when-
he fide
put an
fc bar-
herwife
he was
e boat,
gether
10 were
7 threw
latter,
fe who
e fame
, who,
led to
owards
anders
ts, and
anions
m the
as ftll
bry ex-
long-
it, the
to the
felves
waited
reets.
hough
6
“we were in the leaft danger.
1787-] ROUND THE WORLD. 185
« Although the fwell was heavy, and the wind right
on end, we fucceeded, notwithftanding a fhower
of ftones, and the dangerous wounds many of us had
received, in quitting this fatal place, and joining M.
Mouton, commander of the Bouffole’s barge, who,
by throwing his water cafks overboard, had lightened
her to make room for thofe who could get on board,
I had taken into that of the Aftrolabe, Mers. Bou-
tin, Colinet, and feveral other perfons.. ‘Thofe
who had faved themfelves, were all more or lefs
wounded, fo that the boats were defencelefs ; and
it was impoffible to think of returning into a bay,
from whence we thought ourfelves too happy in
efcaping, to make head againft a thoufand enraged
barbarians ; it would have been expofing ourfelves,
without the leaft utility, to certain death. We
therefore fieered towards the two frigates, which,
at three o'clock, when the maffacre took place,
The breeze was
frefh, and the frigates far to windward, an un.
fortunate circumftance for us, and particularly
for thofe whofe wounds required immediate dref-
ing. At four o’clock they tacked, and ftood in
again for fhore. We were no fooncr clear of the
reefs, then I hauled my wind, to get: off from
the coaft, and flung every thing overboard that
could retard the boat’s way, fhe being full of people.
Fortunately the iflanders, taken up with pillaging
the long-boats, did not think of purfuing us. Our
whole defence confified in four or five cutlafies,
and two or three difcharges of mufquetry ; a fec-
ble refource againft two or three hundred barba-
rians, armed with clubs and flones, in very light
canoes, which they might keep at what diftance
they thought proper. Some few of them left the
bay fhortly after us, but they failed coaftways,
from whence one of them {et off to give notice to
** thofe
186 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
“ thofe who were along-fide of the frigates. This
“ canoe had the infolence, in paffing, to make
** menacing fignals; but my pofition obliged me to
“¢ fufpend my revenge, and referve the feeble means
“ which remained for our own defence.
‘© We were no fooner in the offing, than I pulled
with the wind right on end, towards the frigates,
we hoifted a red handkerchief at the maft head, and,
as we approached, fired our three laft mufquets,
M. Mouton alfo made, with two handkerchiefs,
fignal for affiftance ; but we were not perceived
till clofe along-fide, when the Aftrolabe, which
was neareft to us, bore down. At half paft four |
lcft on board her the worft wounded, as did M.
Mouton, and we immediately repaired on board
the Bouffole, when I informed the commodore of
this difaftrous event. After the precautions with
which his prudence infpired him, and the juft
confidence he had in M. de Langle, his furprife
was extreme; and as to his diftrefs, I can only
compare it with my own. This misfortune brought
ftrongly to our recollection that of the 13th of
July, 1786, and completed the bitternefs of our
voyage ; ftill happy in this laft unfortunate occur-
rence, in having faved the greateft part of thofe
who embarked! Had not the thirft after pillage
‘checked, or for a moment fixed the rage of the
favages, not one of us would have efcaped.
‘ It is impoffible to exprefs the fenfation which
this terrible event canfed in both frigates. The
death of M. de Langle, who had the confidence
and efteem of his people, threw all the Afro.
labe’s crew into defpair. The iflanders, who were
along-fide, when I came on board, and ignorant
‘ of what had happened, were on the point of falling
facrifices to the vengeance of the failors, whom
we had the greateft difficulty to keep within
“ bounds. The general affliction which prevailed
on
[1787.
tes, This
to make
igéd me to
eble means
an I pulled
he frigates,
head, and,
mufquets,
dkerchiefs,
perceived
be, which
paft four |
as did M.
| on board
imodoré of
itions with
d the juft
his furprife
[ can only
ne brought
1e 13th of
refs of our
ate occur-
rt of thofe
ter pillage
ige of the
ed.
tion which
ites. The
confidence
the Aftro:
who were
| ignorant
tof falling
yrs, Whom
ep within
) prevailed
on
1787.]
¢6
6
“
[Li
£6
66
66
$
ROUND THE WORLD. 187
on board, is the beft funeral panygeric which can
be pronounced on the captain. For my own part,
[loft in him rather a friend than a commander ; and
the intereft he fhewed towards me, will make me
lament his lofs while I have breath. Happy fhould
I have been in affording him proof of my attach-
ment and gratitude, by facrificing my life for his!
But this brave officer, more expofed than the
others, was the firft prey of the ferocious brutes
that affailed us. In the weak ftate in which my
recovery left me, I went afhore unarmed, under
the protection of others; all the ammunition was
“ either exhaufted, or wet, before I got to the barge,
and when there I could only give, unhappily,
orders too unavailing.
“ I fhould not do juftice to thofe who were, like
myfelf, fortunate enough to fave themfelves, did
I not declare that they conducted themfelves with
* the utmoft poffible bravery and coolnefs. Mefiis.
Boutin and Colinet, who, notwithftanding their
fevere wounds, had ftill their ufual prefence of
# mind, kindly offered their fervices, which I de-
“ feconded b
rived great poles from ; and I was alfo ably
M. le Gobien, who was the laft man
“ that left the boat, and the iatrepidity of whofe
‘ felves difmayed.
example and exhortations contributed not a little
to reanimate fuch of the failors as might feel them-
The warrant officers, failors,
and foldiers, executed the orders received with
equal zeal and punctuality ; and M. Mouton had
no lefs reafon to be fatisfied with the barge’s crew
# of the Bouflole. :
«
ss
66
‘ All thofe who were on fhore can bear witnefs,
like me, that no violence, no imprudence on our
fide, preceded the attack of the favages. Our
captain had, with refpeét to this, iffued the mott
fiiét oydeys, which no one difobcyed.
(S'gned) 6 VAUJAUS,”
188 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787.
Return of the perfons maffacred by the Savages of the Ifand of
Maouna, on the 11th of December, 1787.
OF THE ASTROLABE.
Offcers.—M. de Langle, Poft Captain, commander ; Yves Hu.
mon, John Redellec, Francis Feret, Laurence Robin, and a Chi.
nefe, /eamen.
Lewis David, quarter-gunner ; John Geraud, fervant.
OF THE BOUSSOLE,
M. de Lamanon, natural philofopher and naturalift; Peter
Talin, gunner ; Andrew Roth, and Jofeph Rayes, quarter-gun-
ners.
All the others, in the party, were more or lefs feverely wounded,
CHAP. XXV.
DEPARTURE FROM THE ISLAND OF MAOUNA—DE-
SCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND OF OYOLAVA—-EX-
CHANGES WITH ITS INHABITANTS-——-SEE THE
ISLAND OF POLA—-NEW DETAILS CONCERNING THE
MANNERS, ARTS, AND CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES
OF THESE ISLANDS, AND THE PRODUCE OF THEIR
SOIL——FALL IN WITH COCOA-NUT AND TRAITOR
ISLANDS.
N the 14th of December, I ftood for the Ifland
of Oyolava, which we got fight of five days
before we reached the anchorage that proved fo fa-
tal tous. M.de Bougainville had feen its fouthern
part, as laid down in his plan of this archipelago, at:
a very great diftance. ‘This ifland is feparated from
that of Maounä, or the Maffacre, by a channel about:
nine leagues in width; and the Ifland of Otaheite
can
[1787.
of the Ifland of
787...
nder ; Yves Hu.
obin, and a Chi.
rvant.
aturalift ; Peter
eS, quarter-yun-
verely wounded,
AOUNA—DE-
OLAV A—Ex-.
—SEE THE
CERNING THE
CHE NATIVES
CE OF THEIR
ND TRAITOR
or the Ifland
of five days
roved fo fa-
its fouthern:
hipelago, at:
parated from
annel about:
of Otaheite
can
1787.) ROUND THE WORLD. 189
can hardly be compared with it for beauty, extent,
fertility, and population. At the difiance of three
leagues from its N. E. point, we were furrounded
by an innumerable quantity of canoes, laden with
bread fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, fugar canes, pigeons
and gallinules, but very few pigs. The inhabitants
bore a great refemblance to thofe of the Ifland of
Maouna, who had fo deteftably betrayed us; their
drefs, features, and gigantic ftature, was fo nearly
alike, that our failors fancied that they recognized
many of the affaffins, and I had not a little trouble
in preventing their being fired upon. But I was
certain that they were blinded by rage and ven-
geance, which, if I did not think myfelf juftified in
wreaking on the canoes of the Ifland of Maouna
itfelf, at the moment of being made acquainted with
this horrible event, could not be juftly exercifed
four days after, in another ifland, fifteen leagues from
the field of battle. I therefore appeafed their fermen-
tation, and exchanges were continued. Much more
tranquillity and honefty prevailed here, than at the
Ifland of Maouna, the fmalleft injuftice being pu-
nifhed by blows, or reprimanded by threatening words
and geftures. At four o’clock in the afternoon, we
hove to, oppofite, perhaps, the moft extenfive village
in any ifland of the South Sea, or rather abreaft of a
very extenfive plain, covered with houfes, from the
fummit of the mountains down to the banks of the
fea. ‘Thefe mountains are nearly in the middle of
the ifland, from whence the land inclines by a gentle
declivity, prefenting to the view of the fhips an am-
phitheatre, covered with trees, huts, and verdure ;
the fmoke rofe from the heart of the village, as from
a great city; the water was covered by canoes, all
which endeavoured to get near our ‘hips; feveral were
only paddled by idle lookers on, who, having no-
thing to fell, rowed round our frigates, and appeared
tu
190 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787.
to have nothing to do but enjoy the fpectacle we
afforded them.
From women and children being among them, it
might be prefumed that they had no finifter inten-
tions; but we had too powerful motives for not truft.
ing to thefe appearances, and were ready to repel
the moft trifling act of hoftility, in a manner which
would have rendered navigators formidable to thefe
iflanders. Iam firongly inclined to believe that we
are the firft with whom thefe people have ever traf.
ficked. They had no idea of the ufe of iron, con-
ftantly refufing that which we offered them, and pre-
ferring a fingle glafs bead to an axe or fix inch
nail. Rich in the wealth of nature, they, in their
exchange, only fought for fuperfluities and objects
of luxury. Among a great number of women, I
obferved two or three agreeable countenances, which
might be fuppofed to have ferved as a model for the
print of the young woman bearing prefents, in Cook's
third voyage ; their hair ornamented with flowers,
and a green ribbon, like a bandeau, was plaited with
grafs and mofs ; their fhape was elegant and their
arms well turned and exaétly proportioned ; their
eyes, countenances, and geftures, befpoke their mild-
ncfs ; while on thofe of the men, were only depicted
furprife and ferocity.
At dufk we ftood along the ifland, and the canoes
returned towards land ; the coaft, covered with break-
ers, offering no fhelter to our fhips, becaufe the fea
from the N. E. rifes and beats with violence upon
the north coaft, along which we were fteering. Had
my intention been to anchor, I ‘might probably have
found excellent fhelter on the weft fide. Navigators
in general, within the tropics, muft only look to
leeward of the islands for good anchorage. The
whole of the next day there was a dead calm, with
much lightning, followed by thunder and rain. We
were
that b
cordin
muft
dela’s
pains 1
ifland
to the
us, the
(1787,
ectacle we
g them, it
ter inten-
' not truft-
y to repel
ner which
le to thefe
ve that we
ever traf.
iron, con-
, and pres
r fix inch
y, in their
id objects
women, |
ces, which
lel for the
in Cook’s
h flowers,
aited with
and their
ed ; their
heir mild-
y depicted
he canoes
‘ith break.
fe the fea
nce upon
ng. Had
ably have
Navigators
r look to
re. The
alm, with
rain, We
were
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD, 191
were boarded by but very few canoes, which induc-
ed me to think they had heard of the event at the
iland of Maouna. However as it was poffible that
the canoes had been reftrained from leaving their
ports by the rain and lightning, this could be only
conjecture, but it acquired great probability on the
17th, when running along the ifland of Pola, which
we went much nearer to than the preceding, we were
vifited by no canoe whatever. I then judged that
thefe people had not yet made fufficient progrefs in
morality to know that the culpable alone ought ta
fuffer, and that the punifhment of the real affaffins,
would have fatisfied our revenge. The Ifland of Pola
is fomewhat lefs, but equally beautiful with that of
Oyolava, and is only feparated therefrom by a channel
about four leagues in width, itfelf interfected by two
tolerably large iflands, one. of which, very low and
woody,. is probably inhabited. The north coaft of
Pola, like that of the other iflands in the archipelago,
is inacceffible to fhips, but in doubling its weftern
point is found a calm fea, without breakers, which
promifes excellent road-fieads.
We had learnt from the Iflanders of Maounathat the
Navigators’ Archipelago was compofed of ten iflands,
viz. Opoun, the moft eafterly ; Léoné, Fanfoué, Ma-
guna, Oyolava, Calinaflé, Pola, Shika, Offamo and
Ouera. The pofition of the three laft is unknown to
us, The Indians, on the plan they traced of this
archipelago, placed them fouth of Oyolava, but had
that been their actual fituation, it is certain that, ac-
cording to the courfe De Bougainville purfued, he
muft have feen them. Notwithftanding M. Blon-
dela’s patience and fagacity, who took particular
pains to get fome geographical illufirations from the
iflanders, he could not hazard the leaft conjecture as
to their bearing ; but the fequel of our voyage taught
us, that two of the three might be Cocoa and Trai-
tor
192 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787
tor*Iflands, fituate, according to Captain Wallis’s
obfervations, 11° 5’ too far to the weft.
Opoun, the moftfoutherly as well'as eafterly of thefe
iflands, is in lat. 14° 7’ S. and in long, 1179 2747". W,
Cafting the eye upon the map will thew the refpective
pofition, fize, and relative diftance of thefe iflands;
one point of land of each of which has been fubject-
ed to exact determinations of latitude and longitude,
marked on the fame plan, and deduced from the re-
fult of feveral lunar obfervations, which ferved for
correcting the error of our time-pieces. The difco-
very of thefe. iflands has, by feveral geographers, been
attributed to Roggewein, which, according to them,
he in 1721, named Beauman’s Iflands ; but neither
the hiftorical particulars relating to thefe people, nor
the geographical pofition afligned to thofe iflands by
the hiftorian of Roggewein’s voyage, + corroborate that
opinion. His own words on this fubjecl are: “We
“ difcovered three iflands at the fame time in the 12th
“ degree of latitude, of a very agreeable appearance ;
‘ we found them ftocked with fine fruit trees, and
‘ herbs, vegetables, and plants of every defcription ;
“ the iflanders who came to mect our veffels offered
‘ us all forts of fifh, cocoa nuts, bananas, and other
“ excellent fruit. Thefe iflands muft be well peopled,
“ the beach being on-our arrival covered with many
“ thoufands of men and women, the greater part of
‘ the former carrying bows and arrows. All the in-
“ habitants are white, and only differ from Europeans
“ by fome of them being much fun-burnt. They
“ feemed good kind of people, lively and gay in con-
“ verfation, kind and humane towards each other;
: and nothing ofthe favage in their manners. Their
* Wallis named thefe Iflands, Bofcawen and Keppel.
+ The hiftorical account of Roggewein’s Voyage, brought by
the prefident de Broffes, was written in French in 1739, by a Ger-
man, born at Mecklenbourg, Serjeant Major of the troops embark-
ed on board Roggewein’s ficet.
“ bodies
1787
L 11 bod
66 {ce
and
6 the
6 ki
“ heg
“ fou
6 W
13 of |
66 the
“ thi
“ me
“ thi
T
this
whicl
vigat(
equal
where
place
Beau
whicl
vigate
this r
being
vance
Thef
of S.
long.
Sea, :
pulat
of wl
a def
that.
only
made
and :
Vo
[1787
1 Walliss
‘ly of thefe
274 y LL W.,
refpective
fe iflands;
n fubject-
longitude,
ym the re-
ferved for
The difco-
hers, been
> to them,
ut neither
eople, nor
iflands by
orate that
re: “We
1 the 12th
pearance ;
trees, and
{cription ;
Is offered
and other
| peopled,
rith many
er part of
\ Il the in-
uropeans
t. They
hy in con-
ch other;
rs. Their
eppel.
brought by
, by a Ger-
Boe embark-
bodies
1787. | ROUND THE WORLD: 193
“bodies were not painted like thofe we had before
“feen; they were clothed from the waift to the
“ ancle with fringes of filken ftuff, artfully wrought;
“their heads were covered with a hat of the fame
“ kind, very fine and broad, to protect them from the
“heat of the fun. Some of thefe iflands were ten,
“ fourteen, and cven twenty miles in circumference.
“ We called them Beauman’s Iflands, from the name
“ of the captain of the fhip Tienhoven, who firft faw
“them. It muft be confeffed (adds the author) that
“ this is the moft civilized and honeft nation we have
“ met with in the iflands of the South Sea. . All the
_ © coafts of thefe iflands have good anchorage in from
“ thirteen to twenty fathoms water.”
Thefe particulars, as will be feen by the fequel of
this chapter, have fcarcely any reference to thofe
which we have to give concerning the people of Na-
vigators’ Iflands. As the geographical fituation is
equally irrelevant, and a German chart ftill exifts,
whereon Roggewein's courfe is traced, and which
places thefe iflands in 15°, I am led to believe that
Beauman’s Iflands are not the fame with thofe to
which M. de Bougainville has given the name of Na-
vigators’ Iflands; it befides appears neceffary that
this name fhould be obferved, to prevent a confufion
being introduced into geography, whereby the ad-
vancement of that fcience may be materially injured.
Thefe iflands are fituated in about the 14th degree
of S. lat. and between 171 and 175 degrees of W.
long. from one of the firft archipclagoes of the South
Sea, as interefting from the arts, production, and po-
pulation, as thofe of the Society or Friendly Iflands,
of which the Englifh navigators have given us fuch
a defcription, as leaves nothing to be wifhed for on
tb1t head. As to the morality of the people, altho’
only with them for an inftant, our misfortunes: have
made us practically acquainted with their character,
and we do not hefitate to affirm that it would be in-
Vou. IT. O effectual
194 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
effectual to endeavour to excite by kindnefs the gra-
titude of their ferocious fouls, which are only to be
kept in awe by fear.
They are the talleft and beft made iflanders we
have hitherto met with, their ufual height being
five feet nine, ten, or eleven inches; but their fta-
ture is lefs furprifing than the coloflal proportions of
the different parts of their body. Our curiofity,
which frequently led us to meafure them, made
them often compate their bodily ftrength with ours,
Thefe comparifons were not much to our advantage ;
and we are perhaps indebted for all our misfortunes
to the idea of individual fuperiority which they re-
tained, from thefe different trials: Their counte-
nances frequently feemed to me to exprefs a fenti-
ment of difdain, which I thought to deftroy, by or-
dering our fire arms to be made ufe of before them :
but this object I could not attain without pointing
them at fome human victims, for they otherwife con-
fidered the noife as play, and the proof as a joke.
_ Very few among thefe iflanders were under the
fize I have mentioned : I meafured fome who were
-only five fect four inches, but they are the dwarfs of
the country ; but although their ftature nearly ap-
proaches our own, neverthelefs their fitong finewy
arms, broad chefts, and their legs and thighs are of a
vety different proportion. They may be faid to be,
when compared to Europeans, what the Danifh
horfes are to thofe of the different provinces of
France. :
The bodies. of the men are painted or tatooed, fo
that they might be miftaken for cloathed, although
almoft naked : they have only a pirdle of fea weeds
round their loins, which hangs down to their knees,
and reminds us of the river gods in fabulous hiftory,
which are delineated with rufhes hanging round
them. Their hair is very long, and they twift it
many times round their head, thus adding to the fe-
cioufnefs
(1787.
the gra-
y to be
ders we
t being
heir fta-
rtions of
suriofity,
n, made
ith ours,
vantage ;
sfortunes
they re-
r counte-
3 a fenti-
y, by or:
re them:
pointing
wife con-
| joke.
under the
who were
dwarfs of
early ap-
g finewy
hs are of a
aid to be,
e Danifh
bvinces of
ntooed, fo
although
fea weeds
eir knecs,
us hiftory,
ng round
ey twift it
to the fe-
cioufnefs
1787.J ROUND THE WORLD. 195
rocioufnefs of their countenance, always expreffive
either of furprize oranger. The leaft difpute among
them is followed by blows of fticks, clubs, or paddles,
which often, without doubt, cofts the combatants
their lives. ‘They are covered with fears, a confe-
quence of thefe particular quarrels. The fize of the
women is proportionate to that of the men, being tall,
flender, and not devoid of grace; but they lofe,
while yet in their prime, that fweetnefs of expreffion,
that elegance of form, which nature has not with-
held even from thefe barbarians, although fhe feems
to have reluctantly beftowed them only for a moment.
Among a great number of women whom I had an
opportunity of feeing, I diftinguifhed but three that
could be called really pretty; the grofs effrontery
of the others, the indecency of their motions, and the
difgufting offers they made of their favours, rendered
them very proper for the mothers or wives of the
cruel beings that furrounded us. As the hiftory of
our voyage may add a few pages to that of Man, I
fhall not expunge fome traits which might feem in-
decent in any other work. I fhall begin by obferving
that the very {mall number of young and pretty fe-
males, whom I have already fpoken of, foon fixed the
attention of feveral Frenchmen, who, notwithftand-
ing my prohibition, endeavoured to get connected
with them. Their looks expreffed defires not very
difficult to divine, the negotiation for which was
carried on by fome elderly women. The altar
was prepared in the handfomeft hut in the village:
all the blinds were let down, and the inquifitive ex-
cluded.. The victim was laid in the arms of an old
man, who, during the ceremony, exhorted her to
moderate the expreffion of her pain; the matrons
fang and howled, and the facrifice was confummated
in their prefence, and under the aufpices of the old
man, who acted both as prieft and altar. All the
women and children of the village came about the
O 2 houfe,
196 LA PEROUSE'S VOYAGE L1787.
houfe, gently lifting up the lattices, and looking for
the fmalleft crevices im the mats to enjoy this fight,
Whatever preceding navigators may fay, I am con-
vinced that in Navigators’ Iflands, at leaft, the young
girls, before they are married, keep their favours to
themfelves, and that their campliance does not then
difhonour them ; it is even more than probable that
in marrying they are not required'togive any account
of their paft conduct; but I doubt not they are
obliged to be more referved when they have a huf-
band.
Thefe people have certain arts which they cultivate
with fucccfs. I have already fpoken of the elegant
form they give their huts; they difdain, and not
without reafon, our iron inftruments ; for they give a
perfect SR to their work with tools made of
very fine clofe kind of bafaltes, in the form of an
adze.. For a few beads they fold us three-footcc
wooden difhes, eut out of the folid piece, and fo po-
lithed, as to have the appearance of being coated by
the fineft varnifh. It would have taken good Euro-
pean workmen many days to execute a fimilar per-
rmance, which, for want of proper inftruments,
rauft have coft them feveral months’ labour; they,
notwithfanding, put hardly any price upon it, the
time it occupies being oflittle value. The fruit trees
and nutricious roots growing around them, make their
fubfiftence, as well as that of their pigs, dogs, and
fowls, fecure ; and if they fometimes give thenafelves
up for a fhort time te work, it is only to. procure cn-
joyments rather agreeable than of ufe. ‘They manu-
facture extremely fine mats and paper ftuffs. I ob-
ferved two: or three of thefe iflanders, who appeared
to be chiefs; they had, inftead of a girdle of weeds
about their wait, a piece of cloth hung round then,
like a petticoat. The weft is compofed of real
thread, extracted, no doubt,.from foie filamentous
plant, fuch as the nettle oz flax ; it is made without
a fhuttie.
1787
a {nt
cach
whic
well
poire
and |
and ¢
more
a fim
proof
LM |
youn
Taga
expla
the T
pine
lang
Gree
tions
me 1
rife f
riods
the (
tiqui
thef
that
Guit
&c.
rolin
Nor
ed P4
thei
not
[1787.
king for
is fight.
am con-
€ young
Ours to
ot then
ble that
account
hey are
ea hut
ultivate
elegant
and not
ey give a
m of an
e-footcc
d fo po-
vated by
xd Euro-
ilar per-
ruments,
r; they,
nit, the
ruit trees:
ake their
ogs, and
ensfelves
cure cn-
y manu-
. I ob-
appeared
of weeds
id thein,
of real
mentous
without,
a fhutt!e.
made of
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 107
a fhuttle, and the threads abfolutely pafs between
cach other, like thofe of their mats. This cloth,
which has all the fupplenefs and folidity of ours, is
well adapted for the fuils of their canoes; it feems to
poffefs a fuperiority over the paper-fiuff of the Society
and Friendly Iflands, which they alfo manufacture,
and of which they fold us feveral pieces; they, how-
ever, make but little, and it is not much in ufe, the
women preferring the fine mats I have juft mentioned.
At firtt we difcovered no affinity between their
language and that of the people of the igen and
Friendly Iflands, whofe vocabularies we had; but on
more mature examination, we found that they fpoke
a fimilar dialect. One fact which may ferve for fome
proof of it, and which confirms the opinion the Eng-
lih had on the origin of thefe inhabitants, is, that a
young Manillefe fervant, born in the province of
Tagayan, to the north of Manilla, underftood and
explained the greateft part of their words. We know
the Tagayan, Talgale, and generally all the Philip-
pine languages, are derived fram the Malay, and this
language, more widely diffufed than that of cither the
Grecks or Romans, is common to the numerous na-
tions inhabiting the iflands of the South Sea. ‘To
me it is evident, that thefe different nations take their
rife from Malay colonies, which at very remote pe-
riods reduced thefe iflands under fubjcéion ; and
the Chinefe and Egyptians, with all their boafted an-
tiquity, may perhaps be moderns in comparifon te
thefe. But let this be as it may, I am convinced
that the aborigines of the Philippines, Formofa, New
Guinea, New Britain, the Hebrides, Friendly Iflands,
&c. in the Southern hemifphere, and thofe of the Ca-
rolincs, Mariannes and Sandwich Jflands, in the
Northern hemifphere, were this race of woolly head-
ed people who are fill to be found in the interior of
the iflands of Luconia and Formofa. ‘They could
not be fubjected in New Guinca, New Britain, and
O 3 the
198 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787.
the New Hebrides, but were overcome in the iflands
more to the eaft, the centre of which being too fmall to
afford them a retreat, they mixed with their conque-
rors, whence has refulted a very black race of people,
whofe colour full preferves fome fhades deeper 1
thofe of certain other families of the country, sich
they probably make a point of honour to keep un-
mixed. Thefe two very diftinct races ftruck me at
Navigators’ Hlands, and this is the only origin I can
attribute to them.
The .defcendants of the Malays, in thefe islands
have acquired a vigour, ftrength, ftature, and propor-
tion which they do not derive from their forefathers,
and which is undoubtedly owing to the abundance of
food, mildnefs of climate, and influence of phyfi-
gal caufes, which during a long feries of generations,
have been conftantly in action. The arts which they
perhaps may have introduced, will be loft for want of
proper inftruments and materials to exercife them ;
but the identity of language, like the clue of Ariadne,
enables the obferver to follow all the windings of this
new labyrinth. The feudal government is alfo pre-
ferved here, that government which ‘petty tyrants
may reject, which for feveral ages has fullied Europe,
the Gothic remains of which are fill to be found in
our laws, and are the medals which bear witnefs to
our ancient barbarifm ; this government, I fay, is the
fitteft for preferving a ferocioufnefs of manners, be-
caufe the moft trifling concerns excite wars of one
village upon another, which are carried on without
magnanimity or courage ; furprife and treachery are
alternately made ufe of ; and hence, in thefe unhap-
py countries, inflead of meeting with generous open-
hearted warriors, are found only the bafcft affaffins.
The Malays are even at this day the moft perfidious
people of Afia, and their children are ftill degenerate,
becaufe the fame caufes have prepared and produced
the fame effects. It will as À be objected, that it
muft
[1787.
he iflands
bo finall to
conque-
of people,
eper than
ry, which
keep un-
k me at
gin I can
fe. islands
id propor-
brefathers,
ndance of
of phyfi-
erations,
hich they
br want of
fe them ;
Ariadne,
1g of this
al pre-
y tyrants
1 Europe,
found in
vitnefs to
fay, is the
ners, be-
rs of one
1 without
chery are
e unhap-
US Open-
-affaffins.
erfidious
generate,
produced .
d, that it
muft
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 199
muft have becn very difficult for the Malays to make
their way from weft to eaft, to arrive at thefe different
iflands; but the wefterly winds are at leaft as fre-
quent as the eafterly about the equator, in a zone of
feven or eight degrees north and fouth, and they are
f variable that the navigation is fcarcely more diffi-
cult one way than the other. Befides, thefe differ-
ent conquefts did not take place at the fame time.
This people has extended by degrees, and gradually
introduced that form of government which ftill exifts
in the peninfula of Malacca, at Java, Sumatra, Bor-
neo, and all the countries fubdued by this barbarous
nation. Among fifteen or eighten hundred inhabi-
tants that we had the opportunity of obferving, at
leaft thirty had the appearance of chiefs, keeping up
a kind of police, and dealing their blows pretty li-
berally with fticks, but the order they had the ap-
pearance of wifhing to eftablifh, was tran{fgreffed in:
lefs than a minute; never were fovereigns worfe .
obeyed ; never were diforders more frequently excited
by anarchy and infubordination.
' M. de Bougainville has not denominated them the
Navigators without reafon; all their voyages being’
made in canoes, and never fo much as walking even
from one village to another. The villages are all
fituated in creeks on the fea fide, and have no paths
but for penetrating into the interior of the country.
The iflands where we touched were clothed up to
the very fummit with trees laden with fruit, on
which wood-pigeons, and green, rofe, and different
coloured turtle-doves repofed; we alfo faw fome
beautiful parroquets or {pecies of blackbirds, and corn
is Thefe iflanders amufe themfelves in their
eifure hours by taming birds; their houfes were full
of wood-pigeons, which they bartered with us by
hundreds; they likewife fold us 300 gallinules, of :
the moft beautiful plumage. MAS
Their canoes have outriggers, are very fmall, and
je O 4 common-
200 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
commonly hold but five or fix perfons, a very {mall
number may, however, contain as many as fourteen.
They do not appear to merit the culogium beftowed
by navigators on their fwiftncfs, which I do not be-
lieve exceeds feven knots an hour under fail, and
they could not keep up to us with paddles, when we
made but four miles an hour. Thefe Indians are
fuch expert fwimmers, that their canoes feem only to
ferve them to reft in. As they fill on the leaft falfe
movement, they are every inftant obliged to jump
into the fea, take their finking canoes upon their
fhoulders and empty out the water. They fomctimes,
join two together by means of a piece of wood laid
acrofs, in which is placed a ftep to receive the maft.
In this manner they are not fo ticklifh, and the na-
tives can preferve their provifions during long voyages.
Their fails are of mat, or of matted cloth, are fpread
by a fprit, and do not deferve particular notice.
Their only modes of fifhing are with hook and line,
and {weep net; they fold us fome nets, and baits of mo-
ther of pearl and white fhell, very curioufly wrought.
Thefe inftruments are in the form of flying fifh, and
ferve as a cafe for a hook of tortoife fhell, ftrong
enough to hold a tunny, boneta, or dorado. They |
change the largeft fifh for a few glafs beads, and it
was clear by their eagernefs, they were in no fear of
wanting food. à
The iflands I have been at, of this archipelago, ap-
peared to be volcanic; all the ftones on the beach
upon which the fea breaks with fuch farce, as to.
throw the water more than fifty feet high, being only
pieces of lava, round bafaltes or coral, by which the
ifland is wholly furrounded. This coral leaves in the
middle of moft of the creeks, a narrow paflage wide
enough for canoes, or even for boats and long-boats,
thus forming little harbours for the navy of the
iflanders, who, however, never leave their canocs in
the water, but on coming on fhore draw them up ae
ay their
likewi
like tl
the di
Meñi
lowed
prude
to us
tanica
for ev
and tl
purfu
[1787.
ry {mall
fourteen,
beftowed
not be-
fail, and
when we
lians are
n only to
eaft falfe
to jump.
on their
mctimes,
yood laid
the maft,
| the na-
voyages.
re fprea
ce. |
and line,
ts of mo-
vrought.
fifh, and
, ftrong
They .
, and it
o fear of
ago, ap-
e beach
e, as to:
ing only
ch the
ps in the
ge wide
g-boats,
of the
Anocs in
up near
their
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 201
their houfes, under the fhade of trees; as they are
fo light that two men can carry them on their fhoul-
ders without difficulty.
The moft lively imagination would find it difficult
to paint fituations more agreeable than their villages.
All the houfes are built under fruit trees, which keep
them delightfully cool. They are feated on the fide
of a brook running down from the mountains, along
which is a path leading into the interior of the ifland.
The principal object of their architecture, is to pro-
tect them from the heat, and I have already faid, that
they knew how to join elegance witt it. Thefe
houfes, large enough for feveral fainilies, are fur-
rounded by lattices which they open on the wind-
ward, and fhut on the funny fide. The Iflanders
fleep on yery fine mats, perfectly clean, and com-
pleatly out of the reach of damp. We faw no mo-
raiand can fay nothing of their religious ceremonies.
Thefe iflands bound in pigs, dogs, fowls, birds, and
fifh, and areccv: 4 likewife with cocoa, goyava, and
banana trees, : . «nother tree bearing a large al-
mond, which is cat roafted, and much refembles the
chefnut in flavour, Sugar canes fpontancoufly grow
on the banks of the rivers: but they are watery, and
not fo fweet as thofe of our colonies; this differ-
ence probably arifes from their growing in the fhade,
and in too rich and uncultivated a foil. Here are
likewife found fome /ouches, whofe roots are nearly
like thofe of the yam or camagnoc. However great
the danger of penetrating the interior of the ifland,
Meffieurs de la Martinière and Collignon, rather fol-
lowed the impulfe of their zeal, than the diétates of
prudence, and while the landing, which was fo fatal
to us took place, pufhed into the ifland to make bo-
tanical refearches. The Indians exacted a glafs bead
for every herb that M. de la Martinière picked up,
and threatened to knock them down if they refufed; .
purfued by a fhower of ftones, he at the moment of
the
-
402 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787.
the maffacre fwam to the barge, with his: bag of
plants at his back, and thus fuccceded in preferving
them. Till then we had feen no arms but clubs, ox
patow-patows ; but M. Boutin aflured us that he had
feen many bundles of arrows in their hands without
any bow. I am inclined to believe that thefe arrows
are only lances which they ufe to ftrike fith with,
they would haye been of far lefs dangerous effect in
combat than ftones of two or three pound weight,
whica they throw with inconceivable force and ad-
drefs. Thefe iflands are extremely fruitful, and |
believe their population ta be very confiderable.
The eaftern ones, Opun, Léoné, and Fanfoué are
fmall. The two laft are only about five miles in cir-
cumference ; but Maouna, Oyolava, and Pola, mutt
be reckoned among the largeft and moft beautiful
iflands of the South Sea. The accaunts of different
navigators, prefent nothing to our imagination which
can at all ftand in competition with the beauty and
great extent of the village to leeward, of which we
lay to on the northern coaft of Oyolava. Although
it was almoft night when we arrived, we were immne-
diately furrounded by canoes, which either from cu-
riofity or the delire of bartering with us, had left their
harbours ; many having no objects of traffic on baard,
came only to enjoy a fight fo entirely new to them.
Some of them extremely fmall and much ornamcnt-
ed, were capable of containing only one man; and
as thefe went round about the fhips without offering
us any thing in exchange, we called them whi/kus ;
they had their inconveniencies, the flighteft touch of
another canoe upfetting them in an inftant. We
likewife eaine very near to the great and fuperb ifland
of Pola, but had no intercourie with its inhabitants.
On coming round the weftern part of this laft ifland,
we perceived a fmooth fea, which feemed to promife
good anchorage, at leaft while the winds blew from
the eaftward; but the ferment among the crew
was
confid
not to
fining
pelago
. Wh
ifland
three
Offam
to the
to the
by bre
cight
fuccef
to mal
fight o
nearly
had pa
firft, b
north.
day, bi
two ot
to be
Cocoa
covere
meter.
nel of
that w
(1787.
his: bag of
preferving
t clubs, or
hat ‘he had
ds without
efe arrows
fith with;
is effect in
id weight,
€ and ad-
ful, and |
nfiderable,
anfoué are
iles in cir-
Pola, muft
t beautiful
f different
ion which
eauty and
which we
Although
ere imine-
r from cu.
1 left their
on board,
y to them.
ornamcnt-
man : and
it offering
whifkies ;
{t touch of
ant. We
yerb ifland
habitants.
laft ifland,
to promife
blew from
the crew
was
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 203
was ftill too great to let me think of coming to an
anchar.. After what had happened, I could nat pru-
dently fend the failors on fhore without arming every
man with a mufket, and putting a fwivel in each boat;
but then the confcioufnefs of their own ftrength in-
creafing their defire for revenge, might probably have
induced them to reprefs the fmallett act of injuftice
the iflanders were guilty of, by firing upon them.
Befides, in thefe bad anchoring grounds a fhip is ex-
pofed to being loft, without a boat capable of carrying,
out an anchar whereby fhe may be warped aut. Thefe
confiderations made me refolve, as I have before faid,
not to anchor until I fhould reach Botany Bay, con-
fining myfelf to fuch tracks, in thefe different archi-
pelagoes, as might lead to new difcoveries.
. When we had doubled the weftern coaft of the
ifland of Pola, we faw no more land; not even the
three iflands which the natives’ had called Shika,
Offamo, and Ouera, and which they had laid down
to the fouth of Oyolava. I ufed every effort to fteer
to the 8. S. E., which I was at firft prevented from
by breezes from E. S. E. fo light, that we ran but
cight or ten leagues a day. They at laft fhifted
fucceffively to the N. and N. W. which enabled me
to make in eafting my courfe, and on the 20th I got
fight ofa round ifland due touth from Oyolava, and
nearly forty leagues off. M. de Bougainville, who
had paffed betwecn thefe two iflands, did not fee the
firft, becaufe he was fome leagues too much to the
north. A calm prevented me from nearing it this
day, but the next I came within two miles, and faw
two other iflands to the fouth, which I at once knew
to be the Cocoa and Traitors’ Iflands of Schouten.
Cocoa Ifland is very high, in the form of a fugar loaf,
covcred with trees to the top, about a league in dia-
meter. It is feparated from Traitors’ Ifland by achan-
nel of about three miles acrofs, interfected by an iflot
that we faw at the north-eafterly point of the ifland,
| | which
204 LA PEROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787.
which is low and flat, and has only a high hill towards
the middle : it is divided into two parts by a channel
150 toifes wide at the mouth. Schouten had no op-
portunity for feeing it, as he muft have been in the
point of the compafs where the paflage is open ; we
fhould not even have fufpected its exiftence, had we
not ran very clofe along this part of the ifland. We
had no longer any doubt of thefe being the three
iflands (only two of which deferve the name) that
formed part of the ten compofing Navigators” Archi-
pelago. As the wind blew very frefh from the N. W,
and the weather bore a threatening afpect, we were
not much furprifed to fee no canoe come along fide,
and I refolved to ftand off and on all night, in order to
reconnoitre the iflands the next day, and barter for
fome refrefhments with the iflanders. The weather
was fqually, and the wind varying only from N, W,
toN. N.W. Thad perceived fome Acikens on the
N.W. point of Little Traitors” Ifland, which made me
gain a greater offing. At day break I nearcd this
laft mentioned island, which being low and more ex-
tenfive than Cocoa Island, I thought muft be better
peopled, and at eight o’clock in the morning brought
to, to the W. S. W. two milcs from a large fandy
bay in the weflern part of Great Traitors’ Island, and
where I had no doubt of finding anchorage, fheltered
from the eafterly winds.
About twenty canoes immediately left the coaft,
and approached the two frigates, for the purpofe of
making exchanges ; feveral likewife came out of the
channel which divides Traitors’ Island. They were
Joaded with the fineft cocoa-nuts I had ever before
feen, a few bananas, and fome yams, and only had
a fmall pig and three or four fowls. It is evident
thefe Indians had already feen or heard fpeak of
Europeans; they approached without fear, traded
with great honefty, and never refufed, like the n1-
tives of Navigators’ Archipclago, to give their fruits
; before
1787.]
before t
jeces O
hey, |
the fam
tatooed
doubt c
they dif
off fron
vigators
had und
much {]
doubt,
being Id
of the
called
the part
attacked
eaft of
Traitors
of Mao
nated it
had cha
the Ind
injuftice
our arm
refentm
and thre
do it ag
times p
any thit
coming
and for
us that
it is we
reftrain
The
dians fo
Quall. |
L1787.
ill towards
a channel
ad no Op-
een in the
open ; we
€, had we
ind. We
the three
ame) that
rs” Archi-
he N. W,
we were
long: fide,
n order to
barter for
e weather
m N, W,
ers on the
| made me
sared this
more ex-
be better
g brought
urge fandy
sland, and
fheltered
the coatt,
urpofc of
out of the
hey were
ver before
only had
is evident
{peak of
ar, traded
e the n-
heir fruits
before
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. . 205.
before they received payment for them; they took.
ieces of iron and nails, with the fame avidity as beads,
hey, however, fpoke the fame language, and had.
the fame ferocious look; their dtefs, manner of being
tatooed, and canoes, were likewife fimilar, and no.
doubt could arife of their being the fame people ;
they differed, indeed, in all having two joints cut
off from the little finger of the left hand, as in Na-.
vigators’ Islands I never faw but two individuals who
had undergone this amputation : they were likewife
much fhorter, and lefs gigantic ; this difference, no
doubt, arifes from the foil of thefe islauds, which
being lefs fertile, is alfo lefs favourablg to the growth
of the human fpecies. Every islawd that we faw,
called to mind fome mark or other of treachery, on
the part of the islanders. Roggewein’s crew had been
attacked and ftoned at Recreation Islands, to the
eaft of Navigators’ Islands; Schouten’s crew, at
Traitors’ Island, which was in fight, and tothe fouth
of Maouna, where part of our own had been aflafii-
nated in fo atrocious a-manner. Thefe reflections:
had changed our manner of aéling, with refpect to
the Indians ; we repelled the moft trifling thefts and
injuftice by force, fhewing them, by the effect of
our arms, that flight could not fave them from our
refentment : we refufed to let them come on board,
and threatened to punifh with death thofc who would
do it againft our will. This conduct was a hundred
times preferable to our firft moderation, and if we had
any thing to regret, it was that we had ever fince our
coming to them made ufe of principles of mildnefs
and forbearance. Reafon and common fenfe tell
us that it is right to employ force againft a man, who
it is well known would be our aflaffin if he were not
tefirained by fear.
The 23d, at noon, while bartering with thefe In-
dians for cocoa-nuts, we were aflailed by a very heavy.
{uall from N. N. W. which difperted the canoes :
many
206 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787.
many were overfet, and, after having righted again,
paddled away with their utmoft ftrength to land, Not-
withftanding the weather bore a menacing appearance,
we made the circuit of Traitors’ Ifland, to difcover all
its points, and take a correct plan of it. M. Dagelct
had taken very good obfervations of the latitude, at
noon, and in the morning, of the longitude of the
two iflands, which put it in his power to rectify the
pofition Captain Wallis affigned them. At four
o'clock I made the fignal for ficering S. S, E., towards
the archipelago of the Friendly Iflands ; of which I
propofed reconnoitring fuch as Captain Cook had not
the opportunity of exploring. Thefe muft, accord-
ing to his account, be to the north of Inahomooka.
CHAP. XXVI.
DEPARTURE FROM NAVIGATORS ISLANDS—WE DIRECT
OUR ROUTE TOWARDS THE FRIENDLY. ISLANDS—
FALL IN WITH THE ISLAND OF VAVAO, AND DIF-
FERENT ISLANDS OF THIS ARCHIPELAGO VERY IN-
ACCURATELY LAID DOWN ON THE CHARTS—THE
INHABITANTS OF TONGATABOO HASTEN TO COME
ON BOARD AND TRADE WITH US—WE ANCHOR AT
NORFOLK ISLAND—DESCRIPTION OF THAT ISLAND
——ARRIVAL AT ROTANY BAY, }
HE night after our departure from Traitors’
Ifland was dreadful ; the winds fhifted, and
blew hard from the weft, with a great deal of rain.
As, at fun-fet, the extent of the horizon was not one
league, I lay to until day light, with the fhip’s head to
the S. S. W., the wefterly wind fill continuing vio-
lent, with abundance of rain.
All thofe who. had fymptoms of fcurvy fuffered
prodigioufly
1787.
prodig
was a
partic
I att
whic
vants
cufto
Davic
fcorb
boar
we Of
we I
of a
age a
weak,
the le
maki
patled
poffi
to E
plete.
I thir
cious
in ho
ed, :
brant
their
hogs
fourc
were
tuals
[1787.
hted again,
land. Not-
appearance,
difcover all
M. Dagelct
latitude, at
ude of the
rectify the
At four
E., towards
of which I
ook had not
ft, accord-
1homooka.
WE DIRECT
ISLANDS—
, AND DIF-
O VERY IN-
ARTS—-THE
N TO COME
ANCHOR AT
LAT ISLAND
mn Traitors’
ifted, and
eal of rain.
as not one
ip’s head to
inuing vio-
fuffered
rodigioufly
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD, 207
rodigioufly from the damp. Not one of the crew
wasattacked by this difeafe, but the officers, and
particularly our fervants, began to feel its advances :
J attributed it to the fcarcity of frefh provifions,
which the failors were lefs affected by than the fer-
vants, who had never been at fea, and were not ac-
cuftomed to do without it. One of the name of
David, the gun-reom cook, died, on the 10th, of a
fcorbutic dropfy.: Since Icaving Breft, no one on
board the Bouflole had died a natural death, and had
we only made an ordinary voyage round the world,
we might have returned to Europe without the lofs
of a fingle man. ‘The laft mouths indeed of a voy-
age are the moft difficult to fuftain, the body grows
weaker by time, and the provifions fpoil; but if, in
the length of voyages undertaken for the purpofe of
making difcoveries, there are bounds which cannot be
pañled, it is important to know thofe whereto it is
poffible to attain ; and, I believe, that on our return
to Europe, our experience on this head will be com-
plete. Of all the known prefervatives againft fcurvy,
I think that molaffes and fpruce-beer are moft. effica-
cious. Our fhips’ companies conftantly drank them
in hot climates : a bottle per man was daily diftribut-
ed, with half a pint of wine, and a fmall glafs of
brandy, mixed with a great deal of water; this made
their other provifions palatable. The quantity of
hogs we procured at Maouna was but a tranfitory re-
fource : as we could neither falt them, becaufe they
were too fmall, nor keep them alive for want of vic-
tuals to feed them on, I determined to diftribute
fome twice a day to the crew, when the fwelling of
the legs, and every fcorbutic fymptom difappeared.
This new regimen had the fame effect on our health
as a long fiay in port, which proves, that failors have
lefs urgent need of land air than falubrious food.
The N. N. W. winds followed us beyond the
archipelago of the Friendly Iflands, always accompa-
nied
208 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787
nied with rain, and often as ftrong as the weft winds
which are met with in winter on the coaft of Bri.
tanny. We very well knew that the winter feafon
had commenced, and, confequently, ftorms and hur.
ricanes ; but we were not prepared for fuch continual
bad weather. The 27th December we difcovered
the ifland of Vavao, the northern point of which, at
noon, bore exaétly weft ; our latitude was 18° 34’,
This ifland, which Captain Cook had never been at,
but had been informed of by the inhabitants of the
Friendly Iflands, is one of the moft confiderable of
this archipelago, nearly equalling in extent that of
Tongataboo ; but it has this advantage over it, that
from being more elevated, it is never in want of freth
water. It ftands in the centre of a number of other
iflands, which muft retain the names Captain Cook
has given a lift of, but which would be very difficult
for us to clafs. We could not, without injuftice,
claim the honour of this difcovery, which is due to
Maurelle, the pilot, who has added to the archipelago
of the Friendly Iflands almoft as many more as had
been already explored by Captain Cook.
. I procured, at China, an extract from this Spanifh
pilot’s journal, who left Manilla in 1781, charged
with a commiffion for America, whither he purpofed
going by the fouthern hemifphere, by nearly follow-
ing the track of M. de Surville, and endeavouring
to reach the high latitudes, where he reafonably ex-
pected to mcet with wefterly winds. This navigator
was not acquainted with the new methods of deter-
mining the longitude, nor had he read any of the ac-
counts of modern voyages : he fteeted by Bellin’s old
French maps, and made amends, by the greateft accu-
racy in his reckoning, and in taking bearings, for the
imperfections of his method, inftruments, and charts.
He coafted, Jike M. de Surville, along New Ireland,
faw feveral fmall iflands which De Bougainville, Car-
teret, and Surville, had already noticed: sisal
three
1787
three
Solot
vao, |
affor
in wi
eaft d
plete
on ac
rived
ort,
of pr
fo tr
F set
trait «
all tt
feems
I fhal
whict
Mau
Vlana
New
vex, f
the I
ferabl
beft t
plan |
and |
exact
thefe
copies
would
real e
Wi
Ifland
kept —
night.
purpo
leagu
Vo
[1787
vett winds
aft of Bri.
ter feafon
sand hur.
| continual
difcovered
which, at
s 18° 34’,
er been at,
ints of the
iderable of
nt that of
er it, that
nt of frefh
r of other
stain Cook
ry difficult
, injuttice,
is due to
rchipelago
pre as had
is Spanifh
» charged
© purpofed
rly follow-
leavouring:
onably ex-
s navigator
s of deter-
of the ac-
Bellin’s old
ateft accu-
gs, for the
nnd charts.
pw Ireland,
ville, Car-
difcovered
three
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 209
three or four new ones, and, thinking himfelf near
Solomon’s Iflands, firft fell in with, northward of Va-
yao, an ifland which he called Margoura, becaufe it
afforded him none of the refrefhments he began to be
in want of. He had not an opportunity of feeing to
eaft of it a fecond ifland, of which we got a com-
plete view, that can only be feen three or four leagues,
on account of its being very low. At length he ar-
rived at Vavao, where he anchored in a commodious
port, and took in water, and a confiderable quantity
of provifions. The particulars of his account were
fo true, that it was impoffible not to recognize the
Friendly Iflands, and equally fo to miftake the por-
trait of Poulaho, who, being the principal Chief of
all the iflands, dwells indifferently in feveral, but
feems to make Vavao his particular place of refidence.
I fhall not enter into any other details of this voyage,
which I only mentioned out of juftice to the pilot
Maurelle. He had named the groupe of Vavao, the
Iflands of Majorca, after the name of the Viceroy of
New Spain, and that of Hapace, the [ands of Gal-
vez, from the name of the brother of the minifter of
the Indies; but convinced that it is infinitely pre-
ferable to preferve the country names, I thought it
beft to make ufe of them in M. Bernizet’s plan. This
plan has been conftruéted according to the latitudes
and longitudes determined by M. Dagelet, far more
exact than thofe of the Spanifh navigator, who placed
thefe iflands about fix degrees too far weft ; this error,
copied from ageto age, and fanétioned by geographers,
would have given birth to a new archipelago, whofe
rcal exiftence would have been on the charts alone.
We kept plying on the 27th, to approach the
Ifland of Vavao, from whence the W. N. W. wind
kept us at a little diftance. Having, during the
night, tacked and ftretched to the north, for the
purpofe of extending my view twelve or fifteen
leagues beyond the ifiand, I got fight of that of
Vor. II. P Margoura
210 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787
Margoura of Maurelle, which bore weft, and having
approached it, faw another very flat ifland, covered
with trees. The ifland of Margoura is, on the con-
trary, high, and moft probably both of them are in-
habited. After we had taken all our bearings, I
bore up for that of Vavao, which was only diftin-
guifhable from the maft head. It is the moft con-
fiderable of the archipelago of the Friendly Iflands ;
the others; fcattered to the north or weft, cannot
be compared to this laft. ‘Towards noon 1 was at
the mouth of the port, in which Maurelle had an-
chored ; it is formed by fmall elevated islands, having
between them narrow but very deep paffages, and
completely fheltering veflels from the winds blowing
in from the offing. This port, very much fuperior to
that of Tongataboo, would have been a great conve-
nience to pafs fome days in, but the anchoring-place
is within two cables’ length of fhore, and in this po-
fition a long-boat is often neceffary to carry out an
anchor, in order to get off the coaft. I was tempted
every inftant to renounce the plan I had formed on
leaving Maouna, to put into no port before I made
Botany Bay, but reafon and prudence kept me
firm. Being, however, defirous of getting acquainted
with the islanders, I brought to near the fhore ; no
canoe, however, came near the frigates, which did
not furprife me, and was doubtlefs owing to the
badnefs of the weather, and threatening appearance of
the fky; and as the horizon became every minute more
overeatt, I, before night, ftood to the weft, towards
the Island of Latté, which I perceived ; and which,
in Clear weather, is high enough to be feen at the
diftance uf twenty leagues. This name of Latté is
comprehended, in Capt. Cook’s lift of the Friendly
Islands ; and had been affigned to this fame island
by Maurelle, in his journal, from the information of
the islanders of Vavao, by whom he was befides told
that it was inhabited; and that fhips might anchor
there.
1787. |
there. FE
to geogra
like form
we had bc
longitude,
this ifland
archipelag
in languag
been fuffic
well know
though ve
the identit
form and «
ing proof «
The foll
which env
poffible to
fituated, it
tinue our |
and I refol
it was eve
ter had fall
fibly rage
nounced b
I, notwith
and appro
however, t
Under this
as to be ob
and Toofo:
imperceptil
were firft
who had e
which fepa
rately dete
a matter o
with the lo
pofed inded
787,
ving
ered
con-
* in-
rs, I
ftin-
con-
ads ;
nnot
is at
| an-
ving
and
wing
or to
nve-
place
$ po-
it an
pted
d on
nade
me
inted
; no
1 did
» the
ce of
more
rards
hich,
tthe
tté is
endly
land
bn of
s told
chor
here.
1787.| ROUND THE WORLD. 211
there. Here may be feen of what importance it is,
to geography to preferve the country names, for if,
like former navigators, or even Maurelle himfelf,
we had been feven or eight degrees wrong in our
longitude, we might have fuppofed, on falling in with
this ifland, that we were at a great diftance from the
archipelago of the Friendly Iflands. The conformity
in language, manners, and drefs, would not have
been fufficient to remove our fcruples, becaufe it is
well known that all thefe people have a refemblance,
though very far diftant from each other; whereas,
the identity of name, and flighteft defcription of the
form and extent of this ifland, would be a convinc-
ing proof of the identity of the place.
The following night was dreadful ; the darknefs,
which enveloped us, was fo thick, that it was im-
poffible to diftinguifh any thing around us. Thus
fituated, it would have been very imprudent to con
tinue our courfe in the midft of fo many iflands ;
and I refolved to make fhort tacks till day break, but
it was even more flormy than the night ; the barome-
ter had fallen three lines, and if a hurricane could pof-
fibly rage with greater violence, it could not be an-
nounced by weather of a more threatening appearance.
I, notwithftanding, ftood on for the Ifland of Latté,
and approached it within two miles ; very certain,
however, that no canoe would hazard putting to fea.
Under this ifland I was fo borne down by a fquall,
as to be obliged to bear up towards the Iflands Kao
and Toofoa, which we could not but be near, though
imperceptible through the fog. Thefe two iflands
were firft laid down on the plan of Captain Cook,
who had entered the channel, two miles in brezath,
which feparates the one from the other, and had accu-.
rately determined their latituce and lon,zitude, It was
a matter of great importance, te compare the latter
with the longitude given by our time-keepers, I pro-
pofed indeed to go near enough to Tongataboo, to
P2 complete
212 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
complete the comparifon. M. Dagelei very properly
confidered the obfervatory of Tongataboo, the fame as
that of Greenwich, fince its pofition was determined
by the refult of more than 10,000 fets of obfervations
take.. ‘an the fpace of four or five months, by the inde-
fatigable Capt. Cook. At five o’clock in the evening,
the weather clearing up, brought to view Kao Island,
whofe form is that of a very high cone, whicli may
be feen, in fine weather, thirty leagues. Toofoa
Island, though alfo very high, did ot fhew itfelf,
but remained concealed in the fog. I pafled the
night as the preceding one, ftanding off and on, but
under the maintop and forefail only, the wind blow-
ing fo frefh that we could carry no other fail. The
next morning was tolerably clear, and at fun-rife
we got fight of the Islands of Kao and Toofoa. |
came. within half a league of Toofoa, and convinced
myfelf that it was uninhabited, at leaft in three parts
of its circumference, for I was near enough the
coaft to diftinguifh the flones cu the beach. This
island is very mountainous, flezp, and covered with
trees to the top. It may be four leagues round. |
think that the islanders of Tongataboo, and the
other Friendly Islands, often land there in fine wea-
ther, to cut down trees, and very probably build their
canoes, for in their flat iflands they want wood, where
they have only preferved thofe trees which, like the
cocoa-palm, bear fruit for their fubfiftence. In run-
ning along this island, we faw feveral slides, whereby
the trees felled on the brow of the mountains roll
down to the fea fide; but there were neither huts
nor cleared ground in the woods, nor any thing in
fhort which befpoke its being inhabited. In this
way, continuing our track towards the two little
Islands of Hoonga-tonga and Hoonga-hapaec, we
fhut in Kao Ifland with the middle of Toofoa, fo that
the firft only feemed the fummit of the fecond, and
its bearing, in this pofition, was N. 279 E. Kao
és ri Island
1787
iflan
and
lefs 1
ferve
the f
a cot
tute
it is
ofla
I
of H
clude
Cook
very
whos
nortt
tong
leagu
for n
mou
fhew
The
hapa
to be
mom
to ta
point
them
chan
whic
two |
iflanc
We.
fix 0’
trecs,
In pr
only
diem.
[1787.
7 properl
he fame 4
termined
fervations
the inde.
> evening,
ao Island,
hich may
Toofoa
hew itfelf,
paffed the
id on, but
ind blow-
fail. The
it fun-rife
‘oofoa. I
convinced
hree parts
iough the
ch. This
yered with
round. I
and the
fine wea-
build their
yod, where
h, like the
In run-
| whereby
ntains roll
‘ither huts
y thing in
In this
two little
apaec, We
oa, fo that
cond, and
E. Kao
Island
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD, 213
ifland is about three times the height of the other,
and refembles the mouth of a-volcano. It appeared
lefs than two miles in diameter at the bafe. We ob-
ferved, likewife, on the north eaft point of Toofoa on
the fide of the channel which feparates it from Kao,
a country abfolutely burnt as black as a coal, defti-
tute of trees and every kind of verdure, and which
it is more than probable has been ravaged by floods
of lava.
In the afternoon we came in fight of the two iflands
of Hoonga-tonga and Hoonga-hapace. They are in-
cluded in a chart of the Friendly Iflands, inferted in
Cook’s third voyage ; but we do not find laid down a
very dangerous ledge of rocks extending two leagues,
who’e direction is nearly N. by W. andS. by E. Its
northern point is five leagues to the north of Hoonga-
tonga, forming with the two iflands a ftrait of three
leagues in width. We ran along the weft fide of it
for more than a league, and efpied its breakers rifing
mountains high, but in more moderate weather it
fhews itfelf lefs, and is then much more dangerous.
The two little iflands of Hoonga-tonga and Hoonga-
hapaee are only large uninhabitable rocks, fo high as
to be {een fifteen leagues. Their form changed every
moment, and any {ketch it might have been poffible
to take, would have only agreed in one particular
point ; they feemed to me of equal extent, each of
them lefs than half a league in circumference. A
channel, one league wide, feparates thefe two iflands,
which lie E. N. E. and W.S. W. ‘They are fituated
two leagues to the northward of Tongataboo, but that
ifland being low, it cannot be feen at half that diftance.
We faw it from the maft-head, the 31 {t December, at
fix o’clock in the morning; at firft only the tops of the
trees, which feemed to grow out of the fea, were feen,
In proportion as we advanced, we rofe the land, but
only two or three toifes. We foon got fight of Van-
dieman’s point and the ridge of breakers without it ;
P3 at
214 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787.
at noon it bore eaft about two leagues. As the
wind was northerly l'fteered for the fouthern coaft
of the ifland, which is very bold, and may be ap-
proached within three mufquet fhots. The fea broke
violently upon all the coaft ; but the breakers were in
fhore, and we could perceive the moft chartning or-
chards beyond ; all the ifland feemed cultivated, the
trees fkirted the fields, which were of the moft de-
lightful green. It is true we were then in the rain
feafon, for notwithftanding the magic of this land-
fcape, the moft horrible drought, in all probability,
prevails during part of the year in fo low an ifland.
Not a fingle hill was to be feen, and the fea itfelf
in the calmeft weather has not a more even furface.
The huts of the iflanders were not collected in
villages, but fcattered over the fields like the country
houfes in our beft cultivated plains. Seven or eight
canoes were foon launched, and advanced towards
our frigates; but thefe iflanders, more hufband-
men than failors, managed them with timidity; they
did not dare to approach our fhips, though laying
to, and the water very fmooth; they jumped over-
board at eight or ten toifes diftant, fwimming towards
us with cocoa nuts in each hand, which they exchang-
ed in the moft honeft manner, for bits of iron, nails,
or little hatchets. Their canoes were fimilar to
thofe of Navigators’ Iflands; but none of them had
fails, which they poffibly could not have managed.
The greateft confidence foon took place between us,
they came on board, we talked to them about Poulaho,
and Féenou, and were like old acquaintances who fee
one another again, and difcourfe upon their friends.
A young Iflander gave us to underftand that he was
the fon of Féenau, and this truth or falfhood was worth
many prefents to him ; he uttered a cry of joy on re-
ceiving them, and endeavoured to make us under-
ftand by figns, that if we would anchor on the coatt
we fhould find provifions in abundance, but that the
canoes
178
cano
ract
their
ande
fet, 1
coul
ders
prefl
prop
of th
had 1
ftren
have
reft,
one €
archi
the e
thefe
foil, «
and «
Iilanc
pofe
in un
hefit:
exce
thefe
oblig
fields
is pe
are j
covet
natu
fion
no ar
fever.
weigl
the it
had
Tl
[1787.
As the
ern coaft
be ap-
ea broke
5 were in
ning or-
ated, the
moft de-
the rainy
his land-
bbability,
n ifland.
fea itfelf
nrface.
ected in
country
or eight
towards
nufband-
ty; they
h Jaying
ed over-
towards
-xchang-
on, nails,
milar to
hem had
nanaged.
ween us,
Poulaho,
; who fee
* friends.
t he was
yas worth
oy on re-
s under-
the coaft
that the
canoes
1787. | ROUND THE WORLD. 215
canoes were too finall to carry them out to fea. The
rat was, the canoes contained neither fowls nor pigs,
their cargo confifting of fome bananasand cocoa nuts;
andas the fmalleft wave made thefeticklifh barks over-
fet, the animals would have been drowned before they
could be got on board. The manners of thef£ ‘flan-
ders were noify, but their countenances had no ex-
preffion of ferocity ; and neither their ftature, the
proportion of their limbs, nor the prefumptive force
of their mufcles could overawe us, though they even
had not known the effect of our arms ; their phyfical
frength, without being inferior to ours, feemed to
have no advantage over that of our failors. As to the
reft, their language, tatooage, drefs, all announced
one common origin with that of the inhabitants of the
archipelago of the Navigators, and it is evident that
the exifting difference in the individual proportions of
thefe people only proceeds from the drynefs of the
foil, and the phyfical caufes, arifing from the territory
and climate of the archipelagos of the Friendly
Iilands. Of the hundred and fifty iflands which com-
pofe this archipelago, the greater number confifts but
in unihabited and uninhabitable rocks; and I fecl no
hefite tion in aflerting that the Ifland of Oyolava alone
exceeds in population, fertility, and real ftrength, all
thefe iflands put tegcther, where the iflanders are
obliged to water with the fiveat of their brow, the
fields which furnifh them with their fubfiftence. It
is perhaps to this neceflity for agriculture that they
are indebted for their progrefs in civilization, and dit-
covery of fome arts which compenfate for the want of
natural ftrength, and protects them from the inva-
fion L£. their neighbours. We have, however, feen
no arms among them but patow-patows ; we bought
feveral of them, which were not one third of the
weight of thofe we procured at Maouna, and which
the inhabitants of the Friendly Iflands would not have
had ftrength to make ufe of. | an
The cuftom of cutting off the two joints of the
P 4 little
216 | LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787
little finger is as general among thefe people as at
Cocoa and Traitors’ Islands, while that mark of grief
for the lofs of a friend or relation is almoft unknown
in Navigators’ Islands. I know that Captain Cook
thought. that Cocoa and Traitors’ Islands made
part of the Friendly Islands ; he founded his opinion
on the report of Poulaho, who knew of the trade Cap-
tain Wallis carried on in thefe two islands, and who
even had in his cabinet, before Captain Cook’s ar-
rival, fome pieces of iron proceeding from the barter
of the Dolphin frigate with the inhabitants of Trai-
tors’ Island. I thought, on the contrary, that thefe
two islands were comprehended in the ten which had
becn named to us by the islanders of Maouna, becaufe
I found their fituation precifely in the point of the
compafs pointed out by them, and more to the eaft
than was laid down by Captain Waliis; and I thought
that they might, with the island of the Handfome Na-
tion of Quiros, make the group complete of the fineft
and largeft archipelago of the South Sea. I agree,
however, that the natives of the islands of Cocoa and
Traitors bear a greater refembiance, both in ftature
and external appearance, to the inhabitants of the
Friendly Islands, than to thofe of Navigators’ Islands,
which they are nearly of an equal diftance from.
After having thus explained the reafons for my opi-
nion, I feel little reluctance in adopting, on all oc-
cafions, that of Captain Cook, who has made fo
Jong an abode in the different islands of the South
Sea. |
All our intercourfe with the inhabitants of Tonga-
taboo confifted in a fimple vifit, and feldom is it
made at fuch a difiance ; from them we received only
the fame refrefhments as they give to neighbours in
the country ; but M. Dagelct had an opportunity of
verifying the rate of going of our time-keepers. The
great number of fets of obfervations made, as I before
fiated, by Captain Cook, at Tongataboo, left no
doubt as to the accuracy of pofition of the Refolu-
tions
1786.
tion’s
fome
tive !
clag
Pic
The
numb
fered
Cook
tudes
his o
places
great
but t
a fet ¢
ftance
Fro
lass
pofins
voyag
lago,
never
on ot
Th
havin
provit
the o
and r
thertc
It did
tart I
of wh
havin
make
fecon
about
fome
retree
L787,
ple as at
< of grief
unknown
ain Cook
ds made
s opinion
‘ade Cap-
and who
ook’s ar-
he barter
of Trai-
that thefe
vhich had
a, becaufe
nt of the
» the eaft
I thought
fome Na-
‘the fineft
I agree,
“ocoa and
in ftature
ts of the
s’ Islands,
ce from.
ary opi-
on all oc-
made fo
he South
of Tonga-
dom is it
eived only
hbours in
rtunity of
ers. The
us I before
, left no
he Refolu-
tion's
1788: ] ROUND THE WORLD. 217
tion’s obfervatory, and he thought to make it, in
fome fort, a firft meridian, by afcertaining the rcla-
tive pofitions with refpect to it, of the whole archi-
pelago of the Friendly Islands, and even fome others
which he had vifited in the fouthern hemifpherc.
The refult of his obfervations, obtained by a great
number of diftances between the fun and moon, dif-
fered at leaft feven minutes from that of Captain
Cook: thus M. Dagelet, while admitting the longi-
tudes of that celebrated navigator, likewife purfued
his own, and he was convinced that comparifons on
places whofe fituation was already determined, might
greatly increafe the confidence given to time-pieces,
but that they were not neceffary for their verification ;
a fet of lunar obfervations, taken in favourable circum-
ftances, leaving nothing in that refpect to be defired.
From the conformity of our determinations of lati-
tude and longitude, it may be concluded, that fup-
pofing we had been entirely unacquainted with the
voyages of Captain Cook, the Navigators’ Archipe-
lago, and the group of the islands of Vavao, would
neverthelefs have had the fame geographical pofitions
on ou: charts within five or fix minutes.
The 1ft of January, 1788, on the approach of night,
having loft every hope of obtaining ‘even fufficient
provifions for our confumption while thus plying in
the offing, I refolved to bear away to the W. 5S. W.
and run for Botany Bay, by taking a courfe which hi-
therto had not been purfued by any other navigator.
It did not come within my plan to reconnoitre Pyl-
tart Island, difcovered by Tafman, and the pofition
of which Capt. Cook had determined; but the wind
having fhifted from N. to W.S. W. obliged me to
make a ftretch to the fouth, and in the morning of the
fecond I perceived that island, whofe greateft width is
about a quarter of a league. It is very ficep, with
fome trees only on the N. E. fide, and can ferve for a
retreat to fea fowl alone.
This
218 LA. PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1788.
This fmall island, or rather rock, bore weft from
us at half paft ten in the morning. Its latitude by
obfervation taken at noon by M. Dagelet, was found
to be 22° 22’, that is to fay 4’ further north than the
latitude affigned by Captain Cook, who having deter-
mined it by diftant bearings, was llable to error.
The calms gave us too many opportunities of
afcertaining and correcting our obfervations. For
three days we remained in fight of this rock. The
fun, which was in the zenith, kept up thefe calms, a
hundred times more tedious to failors than contrary
winds. We waited with the moft lively impaticnce
for the fouth eafterly breezes, which we expected to
meet with in thefe feas to conduct us to New Hol-
land. The winds had blown conftantly from the
weft fince the 17th December, and whether violent
or not, their only variation was from north-weft to
fouth-weft. Hence it appears that the trade winds
are very unfettled in thefe latitudes : they, however,
blew from the eaft the 6th January, and fhifting to N.
E., the weather became very overcaft, and the fea
exceeding high, and fo continued with much rain,
and a horizon of trifling extent to the 8th, when we
had fleady but very firong breezes from N. E. to S.
E., the weather dry, and fea extremely rough. As
we had croffed the latitude of all thefe iflands, the
winds refumed their courfe, which had been abfo-
Jutely. interrupted from the line to the 26th degree
fouth ; the temperature was alfo greatly changed,
and the thermometer fell 6°, either from our having
gotten beyond the fun, or as is equally probable, the
firong eatterly breezes, and a whitifh fky had check-
ed its influence; for it was but four degrees from
our zenith, and its rays had very little obliquity. On
the 13th, we came in fight of Norfolk Ifland *, and
* Of which, fee the account, in the voyages and difcoveries of
governors Philip and Hunter, in New South Wales, and the South-
ern Ocean, printed for Stockdale.
of
1788.
of the
was, |
hope
althor
I how
and I
from 1
intern
ject it
botan
se
Jeavi
of inc
with {
our b
behin
had,
prude
tain, |
mand
enjoir
text :
dange
ality
this o
mand
at Bor
frigate
the nc
oppof
ta hay
of in]
over t
inacce
of th
thus r
where
the iff
[1788,
weft from
atitude by
was found
h than the
ing deter-
error.
‘unities of
ions. For
ock. The
fe calms, a
in contrary
impatience
xpected to
New Hol-
from the
her violent
th-weft to
rade winds
7, however,
fting to N.
nd the fea
much rain,
, when we
N. E. to 5.
ough. As
flands, the
been abfo-
6th degree
r changed,
our having
obable, the
had check-
rees from
quity. On
and *, and
difcoveries of
nd the South-
of
1788. | ROUND THE WORLD. 219
of the two iflots lying off its fouthern point. The fea
was, and had been for a long time fo high, that my
hope of fhelter on the north-eaft coaft was but faint,
although the wind was at this moment foutherly ;
I however, on coming nearer, found fmoother water,
and I decided upon letting go the anchor, at:a mile
from the fhore, in 24 fathoms, anda hard fandy bottom,
intermixed with very little coral. I had no other ob-
ject in view, than that of fending our naturalifts and
botanifts to get information refpeéting the foil, and
productions of this ifland, they having, fince our
leaving Kamtfchatka, had but very few opportunities
of increafing their journals. We faw the fea break
with fury round the ifland, but I flattered myfelf that
our boats would fhelter themfelves, in fome degree,
behind the large rocks that border the coaft. As we
had, however, learnt from experience never to lay
prudence afide, I charged M. de Clonard, Poft Cap-
tain, fecond officer in the expedition, with the com-
mand of four fmall beats from the two frigates, and
enjoined him not to rifk a landing under any pre-
text whatever, if our Bifcay yawls ran the leaft
danger of being overfet by the furf. His pundtu-
ality and prudence, left me nothing to fear; and
this officer, whom I intended to appoint to the com-
mand of the Aftrolabe fo foon as we fhould arrive
at Botany Bay, deferved my entire confidence. Our
frigates were anchored abreaft of two points, fituated at
the northern extremity of the N. E. coaft of the ifland,
oppofite the place where we fuppofed Captain Cook
ta have difembarked. Our boats made for this kind
of inlet, but they found the furf break fo violently
over the great rocks as to render the approach to it
inaceeflible. They coafied within half a mufket thot
of the beach, ftecring towards the fouth-eait, and
thus rowed half a league without finding a. place
where there was a poflibility of landing. They faw
the ifland furrounded by a wall, formed trom the lava
which
220 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1788,
which had flowed down from the top of the moun.
tain, and which having cooled in its defcent, had left
in many places a kind of roof, projecting feveral feet
over the coaft of the ifland. Though it had been
‘poffible to land, the interior could not have been
penetrated, without ftemming for fifteen or twenty
toifes the rapid courfe of fome torrents that had form-
ed ravines. Beyond thefe natural barriers, the ifland
was covered with pines, and carpeted by the mof
beautiful verdure ; we might probably have met with
fome culinary plants, and this hope greatly increafed
our defire for vifiting a fhore, where Captain Cook
had landed with the utmoft facility. It is true, he
met with fine weather in thefe feas that continued
feveral days, while we had conftantly navigated in
fuch a heavy fea, that for eight days, our ports and
windows had never been once opened. From the
deck I followed the motion of the boat with my
glafs, and feeing that night was coming on, and
they had not found a commodious landing place, I
made the fignal for them to return, and foon after
gave orders for weighing. I might poffibly have
loft much time in waiting for a more favourable mo-
ment, and the furvey of this ifland was not of fuffi-
cient confequence for fuch a facrifice. As I was
preparing to fail, a fignal from the Aftrolabe, indi-
cating her to be on fire, threw me into the ut-
moft confternation. I immediately ordered out a
boat to her affiftance, but it had hardly got half way,
before a fecond fignal informed me of its being ex-
_tinguifhed, and foon after, M. de Monti told me
through his fpeaking trumpet, that a box of acids, and
other chemical liquids belonging to Father Rece-
veur, depofited under the quarter, deck, had taken
fire of itfelf, and fpread fo thick a fmoke below,
that it was very difficult to find out what it proceed-
ed from: they at length found means to throw this
box into the fca, and the accident was attended with
à no
1788.
no fu
acid h
fire wl
of wil
myfel!
out O1
the A
on the
thing
Th
hardly
of the
the fa
Zealat
veral «
fome,
for pu
bearin
percct
inhab
tropic
there
fingle
are 2
leagui
round
Whil
on th
at the
meal.
der fa
to S.
on th
fome
very ¢
*In
Englif
the ifla
[1788,
the moun-
nt, had left
feveral feet
t had been
have been
or twenty
t had form-
, the ifland
y the mof
re met with
ly increafed
ptain Cook
is true, he
_ continued
avigated in
ir ports and
From the
t with my
1g on, and
ng place, I
1 foon after
ffibly have
urable mo-
ot of fuffi-
As I was
olabe, indi-
ito the ut-
lered out a
ot half way,
s being ex-
ati told me
f acids, and
ther Rece-
, had taken
oke below,
it proceed-
» throw this
tended with
no
1788. | ROUND THE WORLD. 221
no further confequences. Probably fome bottle of
acid having burfted in the box, was the caufe of the
fire which communicated to the bottles of the fpirits
of wine, either broken or carelefsly corked. I gave
myfelf credit for having ordered from the firft fetting .
out on the voyage, that a fimilar box, belonging to
the Abbé Monges, fhould be placed in the open air
on the forecaftle of my frigate, where there was no-
thing to fear from fire.
The elevation of Norfolk Ifland, though very fteep,
hardly exceeds feventy or eighty toifes from the level
of the fea: the pines which cover it, are probably of
the fame fpecies as thofe of New Caledonia or New
Zealand, Captain Cook fays, that he found there fe-
veral cabbage palm trees, and the defire of procuring
fome, was not one of the leaft inducements we had
for putting in there. It is probable, that the palms
bearing thefe cabbages.are very little, for we could
perccive no tree of that fort. This ifland, not being
inhabited *, is covered with fea-fowl, particularly
tropic birds, all of which have their long red feathers :
there were alfo feveral noddies and gulls, but not a
fingle man of war bird. A fand-bank, on which there
are 20 or 30 fathoms water, extends three or four
leagues N. and E. of this ifland, and, perhaps, all
round it, but we did not found to the weft of it.
While we ‘were at anchor we caught fome red fifh
on the bank, like what are called capitaine, or farde,
at the Ifle of France, which afforded us an excellent
meal. At eight o’clock in the evening we were un-
der fail. I ftood W. N. W., and bore up, by degrees,
to S. W. by W. under eafy fail, continuing to found.
on this bank, where we might poffibly mect with
fome fhoal ; but the bottom was, on the contrary,
very even, and the water deepened, foot by foot, as we
* In Philip’s and Hunter’s Voyages, is a particular account of the
Englifh colony fince fettled there ; with a large chart and plan of
the ifland and its foundings.
went
222 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1788,
got further from the ifland. At eleven o":lock in the
evening, a line of 60 fathoms did not reach the bot.
toin, we were then ten miles W. N. W. from the moft
northerly points of Norfolk Ifland. The winds re.
mained fteady at E. 8. E., with rather foggy fqualls,
but, in the intervals, the weather was very clear. At
day-break I crowded fail for Botany Bay, which was
not more than 400 leagues off. After fun-fet, on the
14th, I made the fignal for bringing to, and found-
ing with a line of 200 fathoms. ‘The flat bank of
Norfolk Ifland had made me think that bottom might
be found all the way to New Holland: but this con-
jecture was falfe, and we food on our courfe with one
error lefs, for I had ftrongly adhered to this opinion.
The winds from E. S. E. to N. E. were fixed till we
came in fight of New Holland ; we made much way
by day, and very little by night, becaufe we had been
preceded by no navigator in the track we were purfuing.
The 17th, in 31° 28’S. lat., and 159° 15’ E. long.,
we were furrounded by an innumerable quantity of
gulls, which led us to believe we had pafled near
fome ifland or rock; and many were ready for the
difcovery of a new land before our arrival at Botany
Bay, which we were, however, but 180 Jeagues from.
Thefe birds followed us till within 80 leagues of New
Holland, and it is very probable, that we may have
left behind us fome iflot or rock, which-thefe birds
make thcir afylum, for they are not near fo numerous
near inhabited land. From the time we left Norfolk
Ifland till in fight of Botany Bay, we, every evening,
founded with a line of 200 fathoms, and only began
to ftrike ground eight leagues from the coaft, in g0
fathoms. We got fight of it the 23d of January.
It is not very high, being hardly perceptible for more
than twelve leagues. The winds then became very
variable, and we fell in with, like Captain Cook, cur-
rents that carried us, each day, 15’S. of our reckon-
ing ; fothat we paffed the 24th in working to sae
ward,
1788. |
ward,
weath
diftant
and 01
fame t
this de
depart
whofe
ing at
Eur
countt
get to
that i1
we di
nine «
mile f
over a
bay.
chann
{ent a
mandi
fered |
addins
under
not pe
nor f:
duced
fent a
ter, W
ed, at
wood
the be
the ef
from |
We ik
was ¢
got vu
floop,
[1788,
ock in the
h the bot-
the moft
winds re.
gy fqualls,
clear. At
which was
fet, on the
nd found-
at bank of
om might
t this con-
>with one
is Opinion,
Ked till we
much way
> had been
epurfuing.
’ E. long.
juantity of
afled near
dy for the
at Botany
rues from,
es of New
may have
hefe birds
numerous
ft Norfolk
| evening,
nly began
aft, in gO
* January.
: for more
came very
ook, cur-
r reckon-
to wind-
ward,
1788. | ROUND THE WORLD. 223
ward, in fight of Botany Bay, without being able to
weather Point Solander, which bore north, one league
diftant. ‘The wind blew violently from this quarter,
and our fhips failed too badly to overcome, at the
{fame time, the force of the winds and currents. But
this day we had a fight entirely new to us fince our
departure from Manilla ; which was the Englith fleet,
whofe pendants and colours we could diflinguith, rid-
ing at anchor in Botany Bay.
Europeans, at that diftance from home, are all
countrymen ; and we felt the greatcft impatience to
get to an anchor. But the next day was fo hazy,
that it was impoñfible for us to diftinguith land, and
we did not reach our anchorage before the 26th at
nine o’clock in the morning. I let go the anchor a
mile from the north fhore, in feven fathoms water,
over a bottom of fine grey fand, abreaft of the fecond
bay. The moment I appeared in the mouth of the
channel, an Englith lieutenant and midfhipman were
fent on board my fhip, by Captain Hunter, com-
manding the Englifh frigate the Sirius. They of-
fered me, on his part, all the fervices in his power ;
adding, however, that being on the point of getting
under way to run northward, circumftances would
not permit him to give us provifions, ammunition,
nor fails; fo that their offers of fervice were re-
duced to wifhes for the final fuccefs of our voyage. I
fent an officer to return my thanks to Captain Hun-
ter, who was already a-peak, with his topfails hoift-
ed, and to tell him that my wants were confined to
wood and water, which we fhould find plenty of in
the bay ; and that I knew that fhips, deftined for
the eftablifhment of a colony, at fo great a difiance
from Europe, could afford no fuccour to navigators,
We learnt from the lieutenant that the Englith flect
was commanded by Commodore Philip, who had
got under way, the evening before, in the Spy
floop, to look for a place to the north more conve-
mient
224 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE { 1788,
nient for his eftablifhment. The Englifh lieutenant
feemed to keep Commodore Philip's plan very fecret,
and we did not permit any queftion to be put to him
on this fubjeét ; but we could not doubt but that
the projected eftablifhment muft be very near Botany
Bay, feveral boats and launches being on their way to
thither; and the paflage muft be fhort indeed to
judge it ufelefs to put them on board the fhips. The
failors of the Englifh boat, more indifcreet than their
officer, foon informed our’s that they were only going
to Port Jackfon, fixtcen miles north of Cape Banks,
where Commotlore Philip had himfelf difcovered a very
good harbour, which ran ten miles towards the S, W.:
the fhips could ride at anchor there within piftol-
fhot off fhore, in a fea as fmooth as the water of a
bafin. We had, in the fequel, too many opportuni-
ties of hearing news of the Englifh eftablifhment at
Botany Bay, the runaways from which gave ws a
great deal of trouble and uneafinefs *.
The following Extract is taken from Governor Philips
interefling Voyage to Botany Bay.
During the ftay of M. de la Péroufe in Botany
“ Bay, Father le Receveur, who had come out
“ in the Aftrolabe as a naturalift, died. His death
* Here ends the journal of La Péroufe. I fhall not repeat what I
have faid in the Preliminary Difcourfe, on the fate of this illuftrious
but unfortunate officer. 1 think I have completely refuted the ab-
furd affertions refpeéting the probability of his exiftence. I refer
the reader to it, and requeft him to read in this volume the laft let-
ter he wrote from Botany Bay to the Minifter of Marine. He
therein relates what track he means to purfue before his arrival at
the Ifle of France ; and from the fimple combination it prefents to
navigators, it is not poflible to indulge the leaft hope of his return.
— French Editor.
was
L1788,
lieutenant
rery fecret,
put to him
but that
car Botany
heir way to
indeed to
hips. The
than their
only going
ape Banks,
ered a very
the S, W,;
hin piftol-
water of a
opportuni-
ifhment at
gave us a
nor Philips
in Botany
come out
His death
repeat what I
‘his illuftrious
futed the ab-
ence. I refer
1e the laft let.
Marine. He
his arrival at
it prefents to
of his return.
was
1788.] ROUND THE WORLD. 225
« was occafioned by wounds which he received in
“the unfortunate rencounter at the Navigators’
« [flands. A flight monument was erected to his
“ memory, with the following infcription :
Hic jacet Le RECEVEUR,
E. F. F. Minimis Galliæ Sacerdos,
Phyficus in circumnavigatione
Mundi,
Duce de la Prrousx,
Ob. 17 Feb. 1788.
“ The monument being foon after deftroyed by the
“natives, Governor Philip caufed the infcription to
“be engraved on copper, and affixed to a neigh-
“bouring tree. M. de la Péroufe had paid a fimilar
“ tribute of refpect to the memory of Captain Clerke,
“ at the harbour of St. Peter and St, Paul, in Kamt-
“ {chatka.”
Von. Il.
EXTRACT
596
EXTRACT FROM AN ACCOUNT OF AN
EXCURSION ro true PEAK or TENERIFFE,
Performed by Meffrs. De Lamanon and Moxcës on
the 2Ath of Augu?, 1785, together with an Account
of fome Chémical Experiments made at the Summit of
that Mountain, and a Defcription of new Varieties of
volcanic Schorls.
HE crater of the peak is a perfect folfatara or
| laboratory of fulphur, greatly refembling thofe
of Italy. Its diameter is about 50 toifes by 40, rifing
with a fteep and rapid afcent from weft to eaft.
On the edges of the crater, and particularly to-
wards the loweft part, are feveral apertures or vents,
exhalitæ watery and fulphuric acid vapours, the heat
of which raifed the thermometer from 9? tol340.
The interior of the crater is covered with yellow,
aed and white clay, and fragments of lava partly
decompofed. Under thefe were found very beauti-
ful chryftals of fulphur, forming rhomboidal o¢taedra,
fome of which were an inch thick. I believe they
are the fineft chryfials of fulphur hitherto difcovered,
The fteam exhaled from the apertures was pure wa-
ter, and not at all acid, as I proved not only by its
tafte, but by feveral experiments.
The elevation of the peak above the level of the
fea being near 1900 toifes, I made fome chemical
experiments in order to compare the phenomena at
fo greut a height with thofe which occur in our la-
boratories. I here give only the refults: to detail
all the minutiæ would be tedious,
The evaporation of liquids, and the cold they pro-
duced, were very.confiderable. A minute was fut-
ficient to volatife a pretty large quantity of ether.
The action of the acids on metals, earths, and alkalis,
was flow, and the bubbles that efeaped during the
| efferveivence
_confi
efferv
prodt
That
and t
Ha
mean
acid,
ous Vi
vitrio
‘in co
exce
moift
volati
ftren:
howe
a qui
plete
whic
ing {
great
very
hale
flam
follo
of fi
whe
vape
ONGES 01!
an Account
p Summit of
Varieties of
olfatara or
bling thofe
y AO, rifing
eaft,
ularly to-
s Or vents,
s, the heat
)° to !34°,
th yellow,
ava partly
ry beauti-
1 o¢taedra,
lieve they
difcovcred,
Is pure Wa-
nly by its
vel of the
e chemical
nomen: at
In our la-
> to detail
| they pro-
ce was fuf-
y of ether,
ind alkalis,
during the
erveicence
EXCURSION TO THE PEAK OF TENÉRIFFE. 297
effervefcence were much larger than ordinary. The
production of vitriols afforded a fingular phenomena.
That of iron inftantly affumed a fine violet colour,
and that of copper precipitated with a very vivid blue.
Having next examined the humidity of the air by
means of an hygrometer, of pure alkali and vitriolic
acid, I concluded that out of the current of the aque-
‘ous vapours the air is very dry, for in three hours the
vitriolic acid had fcarcely undergone any change either
‘in colour or weight. The fixed alkali remained dry
except at the edges of the veflel, where it was rather
moift, and the hygrometer was at 64°, as near as the
violence of the wind would permit us to judge.
In contradiction to all the wonders hitherto relat-
ed, the fmell and ftrength of the liquors appeared
not to have loft any thing at this elévation, and the
volatile alkali, ether, and alcohol retained the fame
ftrength. Only the fuming liquor of Boyle loft a
_confiderable portion of its energy: its evaporation
however was not the lefs rapid, and in thirty feconds
a quantity Thad poured into an open veflel was com-
pletely volatilifed. Nothing remained but fulphur,
which reddened the edges and bottom. On pour-
ing fulphuric acid into this liquor, it exploded with
great violence, and the vapours arifing from it had a
very fenfible degree of heat.
TF endeavoured to generate volatile alkali by de-
compofing fal ammoniac with fixed alkali, but its
production was flow and fearcely perceivable ; where-
-as, on a level with the fea, its formation with fimilar
quantities feemed to proceed more rapidly, and in
‘greater abundance.
Defiring to afcertain the nature of the vapours ex-
haled from the crater, and whether they contained in-
flammable air, fixed air, or marine acid, I made the
following experiments. I expofed a nitrous folution
of filver in a veflel on the edge -of one: of the vents,
where it retnained above-an hour in the midft of the
vapours continually arifing, without any fenfible al-
Q 2 teration,
226 EXTRACT FROM AN ACCOUNT OF AN
teration, and thus demonftrated that no marine acid
was exhaled. I then poured a few drops of marine acid
upon it, whe. the precipitation of luna cornea took
place immediately ; but in lieu of being white as
wiual, it was of a fine dark violet, which foon chang-
ed to grey, under the form of fmall flaky chryftals,
vifible to the naked eye, but much more clearly per-
ceived by means of a glafs, in which manner M.
Sage cxamined them (vid. min. docim.) ‘This change
of colour, according to fome experiments I have
‘made on the precipitation. of luna cornea in inflam-
mable air, muft, in my opinion, be attributed toa
combination with a vapour of that kind. Lime-wa-
ter expofed during three hours on the edge of the
crater, and in the neighbourhood of a vent, was not
covered with any pellicle. Scarcely could we per-
ceive a few filaments; which I think proves not only
that no fixed air exhaled from the crater, but, alfo
that the atmofpheric air refting upon it contains but
very little, and that the inflammable vapours and
fulphuric acid gas alone are confiderable, or indeed
perceivable.
The atmofpheric electricity was pretty confidera.
ble; the electrometer of M. Sauflure held in the
hand about five feet from the ground pointed to 3°;
whereas at the furface it was at 14. This electr-
city was pofitive.
The violence of the wind , prevented my making
on the crater itfelf the experiment of boiling water.
But having again defcended to the frozen fountain,
it continued boiling, and the thermometer, when
plunged in it, pointed to 71° of Réaumur. The mer-
id of the barometer was then at 19 inches and one
ine.
I found new varieties of volcanic fchorls, and
among others No. 1, a triple lozenge belonging to
the clafs of oétaëdral inequilateral prifms.
No. 2, black ichorl in oétaëdral prifms of une-
qual fides, terminating in oppofite triedral nan
| the
E
the pla
and a
cation 4
No.
two lar
an obt
and on
of fix t
bevelli
all the
No.
mit, at
an irre
on the
No.
ed of
which
the for
fummi
gular
No.
nating
two ir
three
trunca
at the
tions f
which
a trape
tween
tures,
third |
angle
out tl
dition
N
arine acid
arine acid
brnea took
white as
on chang-
chryftals,
learly per-
anner M.
is Change
ts I have
n inflam-
uted toa
Lime-wa-
Be of the
tf, Was not
| we per-
s not only
, but alfo
ntains but
ours and
or indeed
ronfidera-
ld in the
ed to 3°;
is electri-
y making
ie water.
fountain,
er, when
The mer-
s and one
rls, and
nging to
of une-
fummits,
the
EXCURSION TO THE PEAK OF TENERIFFE. 229
the plans of which are two great irregular eptaedra,
and a fmall fealene triangle, produced by the trun-
cation of the upper angle.
No. 3 is a comprefled hexaëdral prifm, having the
two larger fides a rt terminated at one end by
an obtufe tetraëdral pyramid, with trapezoidal plans,
and on the other by an hexaédral pyramid, compofed
of fix trapezoidal plans, two of which are very fmall
bevellings, and formed by the edges of the two upper
fides of the broad hexagon of the prifm.
No. 4 terminated at one end like the top of the
laft, and at the other by a diédral pyramid, of which
all the edges are bevelled off.
No. 5 terminates at one end by a tetraédral fum-
mit, and at the other by an eptaëdron, compofed of
an irregular pentagon in the middle, five trapezoides
on the ‘fides, and a fixth on one of the angles.
No. 6 terminates in a pentaédral fummit, compof-
ed of four pentagons and a rhomb in the middle,
which is a truncated angle formed by the union of
the four trapezoids ; and on the other by a pentaëdral
fammit, which differs from the firft only in a trian-
gular truncation on the edge of the two trapezoids.
No. 7, biack fchorl with an hexaédral prifm, termi-
nating at one end in an eptaedral fummit, compofed of
twe irregular hexagons, two irregular pentagons, and
three trapezoids, formed by the two diedral faces,
truncated on fix fides, and on the middle edge:
at the other by a teträedral fummit, whofe trunca-
tions form, 1, two large trapezoids and a rhomboides,
which is no other than the truncation of one edge of
a trapezoid ; 2°, two fmall regular trapezoids, and be-
tween the great and finall trapezoids, three trunca-
tures, one hexagonal, the fecond pentagonal, and the
third a fealene. ‘The fecond is the truncature of the
angle of the fummit, which would be a rhomb with-
out the hexagonal truncature, which gives it an ad-
ditional fide.
Q 3 EULOGY
230
EULOGY OF LAMANON,
BY M. BONCE,
Read at the Public Sitting of the Free Society of Sci
ences, Letters, and Arts, in the Louvre, at Paris,
Oth Vendémiaire, 6th Year.
WHEN a great man terminates a long and bril-
liant career, made illuftrious by aéts of heroifin, or
the fublime productions of genius, the honours we:
beftow.on his memory fhould be confidered rather as
a tribute of gratitude than the mere expreflion of
grief. He has performed his allotted work ; the
good, he has done remains, the knowledge he has
promulgated lives and inereafes, and a protracted .ex-
iftence, at an age when the decay of his organs puts
a period to the brilliant conceptions of genius, would
neither add to his own glory, nor the happinefs of
his fpecies.
But when a young man of exalted virtucs, and
adorned with mature, though early talents, falls a vic-
tim to his too eager purfuit of knowlec ge, and is
fnatched fuddenly from the world, all mankind mutt
feel the deepeft regret that the expectation of his fu-
ture fervices mutt now icrminate with the grave, and
his hopes of adding to the improvement of fcience be
defiroyed at once by the cruel ftroke of death,
Robert Paul Lamanon, of the Academy of Turin,
correfponding member of the Academy of Sciences
at Paris, and member of the Mufeum of that me-
tropolis, was born at Salon, in Provence, in 1752,
of a family ancicnt and well efteemed. I fhall not
enter into the details of his youth. To men of or-
dinary capacity a good education is indifpenfible :
but with men of genius a new education is and muti
be the offspring of their own creation. Being a
younger
voungé
tive lei
fical ft
larly t
knowl
ready À
the fu
emanc
father
feflion
chnati(
A pr
hearin.
fered |
canoni
chapte
“ did:
«Tan
Nat
which
and de
to ren
him b
brothe
Lib
mano!
by no
veil w
eyes, |
gets (
clofet.
produ
great
mene
glow!
Daup
gus h
thefe
ty of Sci-
at Paris,
and buil.
proifi, or
rather as
reffion of
ork ; the
e he has
acted .ex-
rans puts
as, would
>pinefs of
ucs, and
ills a vic-
ec, and is
ind mutt
of his fu-
rave, and
cience be
h,
of Turin,
Sciences
that me-
in 1752,
fall not
°n of or-
yenfible :
and mutt
Being a
younger
ours Wwe’
RULOGY OF LAMANON. 231
younger fon, and therefure condemned to the inac-
tive leifure of the church, Lamanon finifhed his claf-
fical ftudies at Paris, But to fcience, and particu-
larly the fublime ftudy which includes a univerfal
knowledge of all the productions of nature, he al-
ready felt that predilection and propenfity which is
the fureft .pledge of future fuccefs. Being foon
emancipated from every controul by the death of his
father and elder brother, ke haftened to quit a pro-
feflion for which he felt ne natural aptitude or in-
clination. |
A prelate, then in the higheft favour with the court,
hearing that Lamanon was quitting the church, of-
fered him a confiderable fum of money to refign his
canonicate in favour of one of his protégés. “ The
chapter of Arles,” replied: the youthful collegiate,
“ did not fell me'my benefice; and as I received it,
“Tam determined to reftore it.”
Nature had implanted in him a fenfe of juftice,
which the prejudices of his birth never weakened ;
and determining, by an act of peculiar generofity,
to renounce the barbarous advantage conferred: on
him by the law, he divided his patrimony with his
brothers and fitters in equal portions.
Liberated from the reftraints of his profeffion, La-
manon devoted himfelf to his ftudies with an ardour
by no means common. Defirous to withdraw the
veil which conceals the fecrets of nature from our
eyes, yet perfuaded that the mofi elevated genius be-
gets only erroneous fyftems in the filence of the
clofet, and convinced that to comprehend the fublime
productions of nature, we mutt fee and obferve a
great deal, and catch her as it were in the adi and com-
mencement of her operations: our youthful fage,
glowing with thefe ideas, travelled ver. Provence,
Dauphiny, and Switzerland, and climbed the ardu-
gus heights of the Alps and Pyrenees. At fight of
thefe vaft laboratories of nature, his genius caught
| Q 4 fire,
232 EULOGY OF LAMANON.
fire, and blazed out inftantaneoufly. Exploring now
the fummits of mountains, now the depths of ca.
verns, weighing the different airs, and analyfing bo.
dies, he imagines himfelf raifed to a knowledge of
the fecrets of creation, and conceives a new fyftem
of the univerfe,
On his return home he devoted himfelf with new
ardour to the ftudy of meteorology, mineralogy, phy.
fics, and every branch ‘of natural hiftory.
Defirous to derive affiftance from the converfation
of fcientific men at the capital, Lamanon removed
to Paris*, and it was at the fame period that he un-
dertook a voyage to England. Though fea-fick dur.
ing a moft tempeftuous paflage, and in danger each
moment of being fwallowed up by the waves, he
lafhed himfelf to the main-maft, there to contemplate
at leifure a fcene at once fublime and terrible, The
burfts of thunder, the whiftling of the winds, the blaze
of the forked lightning, the waves that in rapid fuc-
ceifion overwhelmed him, fo dreadful to men of or-
dinary talents, raifed in his foul a fpecies of enthu-
fiaftic intoxication, and he has often declared to me -
that this was the fineft day he had ever beheld.
Convinced that the friendfhip of a great man ele-
vates the foul, excites emulation, and becomes an
additional ftimulus even in thofe to whom ftudy is
leafure, and the endearments of affection neceflary,
| FA endeavoured to qualify himfelf for that of
* The inhabitants of the commune of Salon having been deteat-
ed in a law fuit againft their lord, unanimoufly eleéted Lamanon,
whofe integrity and knowledge were well known, to folicit before
the council the repeal of the iniquitous decree which had been furrep-
titioufly obtained by intereft. ‘The reply of our youthful ‘age on this
occafion is an additional proof of his uncommon din eftednets.
# As I intend,” faid he, * to go to Paris on my priv : affairs, I
cannot accept the 24 livres per day you offer me: I fhall take only
the twelfth part of that fum to defray the extraordinary expences
that may attend my journies to Verfailles.” In this affair he ob-
tained complete fuccefs.
Condorcet,
engine
indebt
which
morial
taineet
judicic
of the
tates —
tifes w
very |r
rivers,
enorm
found
in the
Ha
land a
there
that «
oring now
hs of ca.
lyfing bo-
wledge of
ow fyftem
with new
logy, phy.
nverfation
| removed
sat he un-
-fick dur.
inger each
waves, he
mtemplate
ble. The
, the blaze
rapid fuc-
en of or-
of enthu-
red to me -
held.
man ele-
comes an
ftudy is
neceflary,
or that of
been defeat-
1 Lamanon,
olicit hefore
been furrep-
l'age on this
“ eftednet:,
‘2 affairs, I
all take only
Ary expences
affair he ob-
ondorcet,
EULOGY OF LAMANON. 233
Condorcet, whofe talents and misfortunes have im-
mortalized him, though purfued by the unforgiving
malice of a lawlefs faction, at enmity with every thing
but diforder, becaufe he laid the bafis of liberty on
the ruins ofanarchy, That academician, who alrea-
dy difcovered what Lamanon might one day become,
received him with diftinétion, and at length granted
him his moft intimate friendfhip.
During three fuccetlive years which he pafled at
Paris, he conftantly attended to the duties of the
learned focieties, which admitted him a member;
and was at that time jointly with Court de Gebelin,
and fome other learned men and artifts, one of the
founders of the Mufeum, the majority of whofe mem-
bers are now united with the Free Society of Scien-
ces, Letters, and Arts of Paris: among various pa-
pers which he read at the fittings of thefe focicties,
many of which are printed, I fhall mention that on
Adam de Crapone, one of the moft fkilful hydraulic
engineers that ever exifted ; an artift to whom we are
indebted for feveral canals for agricultural purpofes,
which fertilize our fouthern departments ;—a me-
morial on the hernia gutturis of the Savoyard moun-
taineers ; a paper full of profound obfervations, and
judicious reflections ;—another piece on the theory
of the winds, (particularly the mifral, which devaf-
tates the fouthern countries), one of the beft trea-
tifes we have on that fubject. He produced alfo a
very Inminons eflay on the variation of the beds of
rivers, particularly of the Rhone; and lafily on the
enormous fkeleton of a fifh of the cetaceous kind,
found at Paris in digging the foundation of a houtfe:
in the rue Dauphine.
Having formed an intention of revifiting Switzer-
land and Italy, Lamanon made a tour to ‘Turin, and
there became acquainted with the learned men of
that capital. The difcovery of Montgolfier, that
brilliant
234 EULOGY OF LAMANON.
brilliant novelty which may be confidered as one of
the phenomena which precede great events, then
drew the attention of all Europe. Our youthful fage
was defirous of making fome experiments of that na.
ture. He exhibited an aeroftat at Turin. But not
perceiving in this difcovery, at firft fo feducing, an
abject of public utility, not forefecing that it would
one day give fuccefs to the ftandard of France in the
field of battle at Fleurus, and obtain the palm of
victory for his countrymen, he refumed his favourite
occupations: Departing therefore from Piedmont,
he explored the reft of Italy, returned through Swit-.
zerland, vifited the Alps, climbed the fummit of
Mount-Blanc, and haftened home to Provence, load-
ed with the rich fpoils of the countries he had tra-
verfed, to digeft the interctiing materials he had col.
lected.
The following is an example of the accuracy of
his obiervations.—Convinced that the plains of La
Crau, which is divided by the river Durance, had
ance formed a lake, he was defirous to afcertain that
faét with phyfical certainty. He therefore collected
one of each fort of pebble in that vaft plain, and count-
ed nineteen different varieties. ‘Then tracing the river
to its fource, near the frontiers of Savoy, he obferved
that above every ftream which branched from it, and
difcharged itfelf into the Durance, the number of
pebbles he met with diminifhed. He then afcended
the courfe of each of thefe little rivers, and found on
their banks the principle of the pebbles with which
the plain of Crau is ftrewed. Thus he obtained an
incontrovertable proof that this plain had once been a
lake formed by the Durance and the waters of the
rivers that unite with it. If all men of learning pur-
fued their refearches with equal precifion, hypothefes,
rather brilliant than folid, would not find fo many ad-
mirers. ‘The charms of imagination, and the orna-
ments
ments |
fpriptih
At t
great v
ment ¢
difcove
demy t
correct
perfect
natural
qualifi
wrote |
tigues :
demiet:
crowme
{elf to
him, tc
The
comina
the ad\
native «
which
fidence
waited
zeal an
to exp
very fu
and m
fhips at
the 4
non, ir
given ¢
* Lar
of a feve
noife had
iS one of
ts, then
hful fuge
that na.
But not
icing, an
it would
ce in the
palm of
favourite
icdmont,
gh Swit-.
mmit of
ice, load-
had tra-
had col-
curacy of
1s of La
nee, had
‘tain that
collected
id count.
the river
obferved
n it, and
amber of
afcended
found on
th which
ained an
e been a
rs of the
ring pur-
pothetes,
many ad-
he orna-
ments
EULOGY OF LAMANON. 235
ments of ftile, would then no longer ufurp the impre-
(priptible nights of truth and nature“.
At the period when he was about to publith his
great work on the Theory of the Earth, the Govern-
ment conceived the vatt defign of compleating the
difcoveries of Captain Cook ; and ordered the Aca-
demy to choofe out a number of men qualified to
correct our motions of the iouthern hemifphere, to
perfect its hydrography, and advance the fcieace of
natural hiftory. Condorcet knew no man fo well
qualified for this laft department as Lamanon, and
wrote him an invitation to fhare the perils and fa.
tigues of this glorious enterprife. Our youthful aca-
demician aceepted with tranfport a propofal which
crowned all his withes, flew to Paris, prefented him-
felf to the yaimfter, and, refufing the falary offered
him, took leave of his friends, and departed for Breft,
The expedition failed in Auguft 1785 under the
command of an experienced mariner, whofe zeal for
the advancement of fcience, and attachment to his
native country, equalled his courage and intelligence,
which had already defervedly procured him the con-
fidence of the people. ‘The learned of every country
waited with anxiety the ufeful difcoveries which the
zeal and talents of the perfons employed gave reafon
to expect. The former patt of their voyage was
very fuccefsful. After landing in a variety of places,
and making a multitude of obfervations, the two
fhips arrived at the Ifland of Muouna, one of thofe in
the Archipelago of Navigators. The eager Lama-
hon, impatient to eftablith the truth of the accounts
given of that country, landed, together with M. de
* Lamanon, after a confinement of two months in confequence
ofa fever, having learned that the phenomenon of a fubterraneous
noife had been obferved near Malefherbes, fixteen leagues from
Paris, efcaped the vigilance of his friends, flew to the fpot, and three
days after returned with thirty pounds weight of foffils. In that
time he had travelled thirty-two leagues on foot, and recovered of
bis fever, which never attacked him fince.
Langle,
FETE
236 EULOGY OF LAMANON.
Langle, the fecond in command of the expedition,
At the moment of their re-embarkation, the iflanders,
feduced by the expeétation of finding immenfe riches
in their veffels, as they conjectured from the prefents
they had juft received, endeavoured to prevent their
getting off, and attacked our countrymen. The lat.
ter were compelled to defend themfelves, and Lama-
non, De Langle, and ten of both the crews fell vic-
tims to the fury of the cannibals.
Thus fell Lamanon, whofe generous devotion of
his labours to the fervice of the community gave him
the moft facred claims on the public gratitude. He
was the only one of this celebrated but unfortunate
expedition who received no falary from the national
munificence, and he fell a victim to his ardour for
the fciences, under a danger, peculiar to himfelf, and
exe hs by none of the learned men who em-
arked with him.
Lamanon was formed to extend the fphere of the
fciences. The depth of his penetration, the energy
of his character, the fagacity of his judgment, com-
bined with that lively curiofity which induces us to
acquire information, and to difeuver the firft princi-
ples of things, muft have led to the moft valua-
ble difcoveriés. His perfon was tall, and to great
vivacity of countenance were united a prodigious
ftrength and inconceivable activity of body. Ina
word, nature had formed him with the care fhe feems
to beftow on the chofen few whom fhe deftines for
great undertakings. His flile was nervous, and fre-
quently adorned with poetry, but always enriched
with imagery peculiar to himfelf. Sentiment beam-
ed through the energy of his attractive language ;
and if he did not poileis the refined diction which
dazzles and feduces the reader, he was in the higheft
degree mafter of that logical force of argument by
which we are at orice convinced and aftonifhed.
Notwithftanding the magnitude of his occupa-
tions
tions, §
cence,
mind,
which
this he
dulge.
charms
time t
his mal
wheth
with t
never }
Att
the wo
for ind
racter,
the oth
on boa:
fity ma
will no
of cont
of frien
diftant
robbed
afhes w
flowers
* Tko
Gebelin,
city, his 1
ftrongly :
perithed |
of the Ea
diftinguif
lattly, Le
The latte
his buft,
aad cover
pedition,
iflanders,
nfe riches
> prefents
ent their
The lat-
id Lama-
fell vic-
votion of
gave him
ide. He
fortunate
national
rdour for
mfelf, and
who em-
re of the
he energy
nt, com-
ces us to
rft princi-
oft valua-
to great
brodigious
In a
{he feems
eftines for
s, and fre-
enriched
nt beam-
anguage ;
on which
he higheft
rument by
ed.
S occupa-
tions
EULOGY OF LAMANON. 237
tions, and the fmallnefs of his fortune, his benefi-
cence, that charaéteriftic of a virtuous and feeling
mind, had affumed in him the fame afcendency
which the love of pleafure holds in other men, and
this he found the means as well as the time ‘to in-
dulge. Nor would he have been infenfible to the
charms of fociety had his ardour for ftudy left him
time to enjoy them. Uncommonly ingenuous in
his manners, he replied to a lady who afked him
whether he had ever formed an intimate connection
with the fair fex, that he had always defired it, but
never yet could {pare the time.
At the period of his engaging in the voyage round
the world, that innate fentiment, that ftrong paffion
for independence, which formed the bafis of his cha-
racter, induced him to refufe the falary granted to all
the other academicians. “ Should I not feel happy
on board,” faid he, “ fhould my tafte or my curio-
fity make me defirous of quitting the expedition, I
will not fuffer any power on earth to have the right
of controling me.” But death belied the fond hope
of friendfhip, and has cut the threat of his life* in a
diftant and barbarous country, and our grief is even
robbed of the foothing fatisfaction of bathing his
afhes with our tears, and firewing his tomb with
flowers.
* T knew Lamanon in my early youth at the houfe of Court de
Gebelin, and in fome literary focieties. His modeity, his fimpli-
city, his fcrupulous integrity, had procured him friends who were
ftrongly attached to him; Mongès, jun. the mineralogitt, who alfo
perifhed in this fatal expedition; La Métherie, author of the Zheory
of the Earth, and editor of the Journal de Phyfique; M. Ponce, a
diftinguifhed artift as an engraver, and author of this Eulogy ; and
lattly, Lewis Rofc, an ardent naturalift, now in North America,
The latter has, fince the death of his friend, conftantly prefeived
his buft, which he has placed in a confpicuous part of his cabinet,
aud covered with funereal crape.— Nore 6y Millin.
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238 ON té INHABITANTS OF
DISSERTATION
On the inhabitants of Easter Isuanp and of Mowrz,
by M. Routt, Doctor of Phyfic, Surgeon in Or.
dinary of the Nuvy, and of gy Hs Frigate,
commanded by M. de la PErousE, in a Voyage round
the World.
.. OUR ftay in thefe iflands having fcarcely permited
me to pafs a few hours on fhote, I was unable to
conduct. my refearches with the accuracy, or carry
them to the extent I.withed, in order to give the
Medical Society all the fatisfaction they required on
the fubject. I fhall therefore confine myfelf to
pointing out the errors I thought I difcovered'in the
accounts of other travellers, and endeavour to con-
vey only a fuccinét defcription of the inhabitants,
and the difeafes by which they feem moft generally
affected. |
On the gth April, 1786, we caft anchor off Eaf-
ter Ifland, which is fituated in 27° 9/S. lat. 111°
55’ 30’ W. long.
The afpect of Eafter Ifland is not fo barren and
difgufting as navigators have told us. It is indeed al:
moft defiitute of wood, but the hills and valleys ex-
hibit, in the eyes of feamen at leaft, a moft agree-
able verdure. The fize and goodnefs o* their pota-
toes, yains, fugar canes, &c. are proofs of great fer-
tility and ftrong vegetation.
The defcriptions of the inhabitants appear equally
remote from truth. We neither found there the
giants defcribed by Roggewein, nor the meagre fi-
gures reprefented by a modern traveller, as languith-
ing for want of wood, and pofleffing a general cha-
. yacter of penury, which has no real exittence. Far
from meeting with men who difgufted the fpectator
by their miferable appearance, and a few women, //!
by a fuppofed revolution in that part of the pil
; Wiel
ea
f Mower,
on in Or-
Æ Frigate,
age round
y permited
unable to
y; or carry
o give the
equired on
myfelf to
ered in the
Jur to con-
inhabitants,
R generally
yor off Eaf-
S. lat, 111°
barren and
is indeed al-
| valleys ex-
moft agree-
their pota-
of great fer-
pear equally
d there the
| meagre fi-
as languifh-
general cha-
tence. Far
he fpectator
women, /e/!
f the world,
which
EASTER’ AND MOWEE ‘ISLANDS, 230
which buried the inhabitants: in its ruins—on'the con-
trary, L_obferved'a pretty numerous tribe, adorned
with more grace and beauty than all thofe I have fince
had occafion to vifit; and enjoying a foil that-eafily
fupplied them with’ good provifions in an abundance,
more than fufficient for their confumption, though
frefh water was very fcarce, and ofa bad quality.
Thefe iflanders are ftout, and of an agrecable per-
fon and countenarice. Their height is about five feet
four inches French, and they are very well propor-
tioned, Except their colour, the character of their
face differed in no refpect from that of Europeans.
They are not very hairy, and have but little beard,
but have all a confiderable quantity on the pubis and
in the arm-pits. * Their complexion is fwarthy, and
their hair black, though in fome it is fair. They
appeared, in general; to enjoy good health, which
they preferve even to old age. They not only paint
and tattoo themfelves, but alfo-picrce their cars
They encreafe the opening of the latter, by infert-
ing a leaf of the fugar-cane, rolled into a fpiral form
fo much that the lobe of the ear hung, as it were,
upon their fhoulders. This is ufed by the men
alone, and feems to be a mark of diftinguifhcd beau
ty, which they are ftudious to acquire. |
The women alfo not only exhibit a regular fhape
but limbs well polithed and gracefully moulded.
Their face is of an agreeable oval, their featutes
fweet and delicate, and they only want the addition
of a fair complexion to claim the praife of beauty
according to our European ideas. They are fufñ-
ciently ftout, have beautiful hair, and an engaging
manner, calculated to infpire thofe fentiments which
they feel themfelves, without endeavouring to çon-
ceal them, — 3 ”
: Notwithftanding all thefe intercfting qualities, I
did not perceive the leaft appearance of jealoufy in the
men ; who on the contrary, endeavoured to make a
trathick
240 ON THE INHABITANTS OF
traffick of their favours. The latter are circum.
cifed, and appear to live in perfeét anarchy. None
of our company could diftinguifh any Chief among
them. _ Both men and women are almoft naked,
wearing only a fkirt about their middle, or fome.
times a picce of cloth, which they wrap round their
fhoulders and hips, and which extends half way
down their thighs.
I know not whether they have any idea of proper.
ty among themfelves, but their conduct towards us
proves how little they refpect that of ftrangers. They
took fo great a liking to our. hats, that in a few
hours they {tripped us of them all, and then made
us the fubject of their dre à We can only com-
pare them-to fchool-boys,. who place all their enjoy-
ment, and employ all their cunning, in playing every
kind of frolic on the peafantry.
Thefe iflanders are not deftitute of induftry. | We
even remarked that their houfes are very roomy and
petfectly well built in their kind. They are formed
of reeds, fupported by a frame of rafters, in the
manner of an arbour, being fifty feet long by ten or
twelve broad, and the fame in height in the loftieft
part. There are feveral entrances in the fides, whofe
greateft diameter does not exceed three feet, The in-
fide prefents nothing very remarkable. We only faw
fome mats, which they ftretched on the ground to
lie on, and feveral {mall pieces of furniture, for their
ufe. Their clothes are made of the paper mul-
berry, but their manufacture is very inconfiderable ;
becaufe though they cultivate that tree, it does not
ow in great plenty. They alfo make hats and
afkets of rufhes, and fmall figures in wood, which
are tolerably well executed. They live on potatoes,
yams, bananas, fugar-cane, and fifh; fometimes
eating a fpecies or marine fucus, which they gather
on the fea fhore.
Fowls, though few in number, are the only ri
| meftic
‘® circum.
hy. None
ief among
oft naked,
, or fome-
‘ound their
y half way
of proper:
towards us
gers. They
t in a few
then made
| only com-
their enjoy-
laying every
uitry. | We
roomy and
are formed
ters, in the
by ten or
ths loftieft
fides, whofe
et. The in-
e only faw
ground to
ire, for wit
aper mul-
able:
it does not
e hats and
yood, which
on potatoes,
fometimes
they gather
e only do-
mettic
EASTER AND MOWEE ISLANDS. 241
meftic animals we found at Eafter Ifland ; and of all
the wild animals,’ the rat is alfo the only quadruped.
But few fea fowl were obferved, and the fea appears
to produce no great quantity of fifh.
There is a large crater in the eaftern part of the
ifland ; andithroughout almoft the whole of its cir-
cumférence,’we faw on the fea fhore a great num-
ber of ftatues, or'a kind of mif-fhapen bufts, on
which are very rudely marked the nofe, mouth,
and ears. At the foot of thefe ftatues were found
the myfterious.caverns mentioned in Captain Cook’s
account. In thefé little caves, which we were per-
mitted to vifit without any oppofition from the na-
tives, each family buries thé remains of its departed
relations.
La Péroufe; not content with having already made
feveral prefents to thefe iflanders, but ftill defirous
of affording them further proofs of benevolence, and
contributing in the moft permanent manner to their
happinefs, left two ewes, a fhe-goat, and a fow, with
one male ‘of each fpccies ; fowed all kinds of pulfe
on the ifland, and planted the ftones of peaches,
plumbs, and cherries, together with pips of oranges
and Jemons.
Should the conduét of the natives not fruftrate fo
laudable an intention, that celebrated navigator will
have the glory not only of contributing to their be-
nefit, by ftocking their country with animals and
vegetables adapted to their fupport, and calculated
to fupply their primary wants, but of fecuring to
fucceéding navigators every kind of refrefhment.
Having ‘executed thefe benevolent defigns, we
weighed anchor, and directed our courfe towards the
Sandwich Iflands. As foon as we came within fight
of Mowee, one of the iflands of this archipelago,
two hundred canoes came off to meet us, laden
with pigs, fruit, and frefh vegetables, which the in-
habitants fent on board, and forced us to accept,
without any ftipulation or condition on their part.
Vou. IT. R The
942 ON THE INHABITANTS, OP
Fbe wind being very ftrong, and having. frethened
our way, thefe refources could. profit us but little,
and we were foon compelled to leave this piéturefque
and beautiful ifland, which, with the great.concourfe
of inhabitants who furrounded us..manceuvring in
their canoes, formed the moft animated and delight.
ful. fpeétacle imagination can depict... On. the 29th
of, May. we anchored to the weftward of this ifland,
which is fituated in 20° 34’ 30!’ N, lat. and 158°
25’ W. long. from Paris. The vegetation: .of this
part. of the ifland. is: not fo ftrong, nor the population
fo. numerous as its.eaftern part, where we had juft
landed; yet {earcely had. we caft anchor before we
were furrounded. by the inhabitants, who brought
us in their canoes pigs, fruit, and freth vegetables,
Our, exchanges were made with fo much fuccefs,
that in a few hours we received on board nearly three
hundred pigs, and a fufficient quantity of vegetables,
which coft us only a few pieces. of iron; and I be-
lieve there. are. few. markets in Europe where the
trade is conducted with more difpateh or equal good
faith, as thefe iflanders fhewed in this fort of com-
merce. '
Though the ifland of Mowee abundantly fapplies
the inhabitents with animals, and all kinds of pro-
vifions neceflary to their fubfftence, they are far
from. exhibiting the fame. healthy appearance. with
thofe of Eafter Hand, where only part of thofe re-
fources are found, and thefe in lefs abundance ; nor
are they endowed with equal grace and beauty of
perfon. Yet the inhabitants-of Mowee appeared to
me not only to have fome analogy in their form with
thofe of Eafter Ifland, but in general even to pro-
mife a more robuft conftitution, had it not been im-
paired by difeafe. The common height of thefe peo-
ple is about: five feet three inches ; they are rather of
a fpare habit, of body, their features coarfe, their
cye-brows. thick, their eyes -black, their look de-
termined though. not ferocious, their asda sry
MED;
+ frefhened
but little,
piéturefque
t.concourfe
euvring in
nd delight-
n the 20th
this ifland,
and 158°
ion: .Of this
population
ye had juft
: before we
0. brought
vegetables,
ch fuccefs,
early three
vegetables,
and I be-
where the
equal good
rt of com-
Ty fupplies
ds of pro-
ey are far
ance with
f thofe re-
lance ; nor
beauty of
ppeared to
> form with
en to pro-
t been im-
‘thefe peo-
e rather of
arfe, their
look de-
neek-bones
high,
EASTER AND MOWEE ISLANDS. 243
high, and their. noftrils rather wide; their lips thick,
their mouth large, as well as their teeth, which, how-
ever, are very fine and regular. Some individuals
were obferved to have loft one or more of their
teeth; and a modern navigator fuppofes them to
pull them out in grief, when mourning for their re-
lations or friends ; but I could not obtain any infor-
mation either to confirm or oppofe that opinion.
This people are. apparently more mufcular, their
beard more bufhy, and thcir body, as well as the pu-
bis and pudendum, more hairy than in the inhabi-
tants of Eafter Ifland. Thcir hair, which is black,
is cut. into the form of an helmet, and a part which
they fuffer to grow, reprefenting the plume, is red
at the extremity, being coloured probably with the
acid juice of fome vegetable.
The women are much fmaller than the men, and
poffefs neither the gaiety, fweetnefs, nor elegance of
form of thofe at Eafter Ifland, being in general ill
made, with coarfe features, and a gloomy counte-
nance, and rude, ftupid, and aukward in their manners.
The inhabitants of Mowee are gentle and pre-
poffefling, and, in a manner, polite to ftrangers.
They paint themfelves, tattoo their fkin, and pierce
their ears and the cartilage of the nofe, in which
they wear rings, by way of ornament. They are not
circumcifed, but fome ufe a kind of infibulation,
- drawing back the prepuce in front of the glans,
and fixing it there with a ligature. The drefs of
both fexes confifis of a piece of cloth covering the
genitals, and another wrapped round their bodies.
Thefe. cloths, made from the paper mulberry, are
beautifully variegated, being painted with great
tafte, and fuch various and, regular defigns, that we
might. almoft fuppofe them intended to imitate our
printed callicoes. Their houfes, collected into vil-
Jages, are built in the mannet of thofe in Eafter
Ifland, but their form is fquare.
R2 With
244: ON THE INHABITANTS OF
With regard to the government of Mowee, I
particularly obferved the inhabitants to be formed
into various tribes, each of which is under the con-
troul of its refpective chief. | | ‘
The excellence of the climate, and the fertility of
the foil, would afford the inhabitants every medns
of happinefs, did not leprofy and fyphilis rage among
them, both very generally and with great violence. -
” Thefe moft deftruétive and humiliating fcourges
of the human race are diftinguifhed among thefe
iflanders: by the following fymptoms, namely, bu-
boes, and their cicatrices, with lofs of fubftance after
fuppuration, warts, phagedænic ulcers, with caries
of the bones, nodes, exoftofes, fiftulas, and tumors
both of the lachrymal and falivary ducts; fcrophu-
lous fwellings, inveterate opthalmia, ichorous ulcer-
ations of the tunica conjunctiva, atrophy of the
eyes, blindnefs, inflamed prurient herpetic eruptions,
with indolent fwellings of the extremities; and among
children by fcald heads, or the malignant tinea, from
which runs a fetid and corrofive fanies. I remarked
that the greater part of thefe unhappy victims of in-
continence, when arrived at the age of nine or ten
years, were feeble, languid, affected with marafmus,
and ricketty.
The indolent fwelling of the extremities, preva-
lent among the people of Mowee, and which An.
derfon, furgeon to Capt. Cook, las obferved among
the greater part of the inhabitants of the iflands in
the South Sea, is doubtlefs a fymptom of elephantia-
fis confiderably advanced, as I am well affured from
feveral obfervations I made on a great number of le-
pers in the lazarettos at Madeira and Manilla.
In this ftage of the leprofy the fkin has loft a por-
tion of fenfibility ; and if the activity of the virus is
not reftrained by proper regimen and fuitable treat-
ment, the obftruéted parts foon entirely lofe their ir-
ritability as well as their fenfibility; the fkin nese
. {caly,
Mowee, 1
Je formed
the con-
fertility of
ery medns
ge among
violence. -
> fcourges
ong thefe
mely, bu-
tance after
vith caries
nd tumors
; fcrophu-
ous ulcer-
hy of the
éruptions,
and among
tinea, from
I remarked
ims of in-
nine or ten
marafmus,
ies, preva-
which An.
ed among
iflands in
elephantia-
Hured from
mber of le-
illa.
loft a por-
the virus is
able treat-
bfe their ir-
in becomes
{ealy,
EASTER AND MOWEE ISLANDS. 245
fcaly, and phlyétænæ are formed, containing a fetid’
and corrofive fanies ; and thefe, unlefs carefully at-
tended to, become gangrenous, or carcinomatous ul-
cers. The naturcor quality of their food may concur,
with the heat of the climate, to fupport and propa-
gate this endemick difeafe of the adipofe membrane,
The very pigs, which form the principal food of the
inhabitants of Mowee, are affeéted with leprofy in a
very high degree, and in great numbers. I examined
fome, and found their fkins not only fcabby but full
of fcurf, and entirely deftitute of hair. On opening
them I found the cawl fprinkled with tubercles,
and the vifcera fo full of them as to excite difguft
in men not delicate in other refpects. Among the
difeafes whofe ravages fo deplorably afflict thefe
iflanders, there are fome which appear to be pro-
duced by the venereal virus, in its greateft activity,
though it more frequently appears in a degenerated
form, of combined with the itch.
Time and circumftances did not permit me to
make any enquiries into the treatment employed by
the inhabitants againft thefe difeafes, but to judge
from their abandoning themfelves to grief, and the
progrefs their infirmities have made, I fhould be led
to think they are unacquainted with every means of
M | themfelves from fo diftrefsful a fituation,
or even of alleviating its miferies. |
Was the venereal difeafe then firft communicated
to the Sandwich Iflands by the failors who accompa-
nied Captain Cook ? The progrefs which this difeafe
had made among the inhabitants of Mowee, both in
its propagation and all its confequent fymptoms of
developement, when that navigator landed there nine
months and a half after having communicated, for
the firft time, with the iflands of Atooi and Onee-
heow, added to the defects obfervable in the confor-
mation of individuals of all ages, though they may
not amount to demonftration, yet afford reafon to be-
R 3 lieve
246 ON THE INHABITANTS OF
lieve that the venereal difeafe exifted there before
Captain Cook difcovered thefe iflands, Some further
roof of this may arife from his own affertions,
hen he landed at Mowee he communicated with
feveral of the natives who had brought him frefh
provifions in their canoes fome leagues out at fea,
On this oceafion he fays— I wifhed to preferve this
ifland free from the venereal difeafe, by forbidding
“ my men all communication with the women of
« the country ; but I foon perceived that it already
“ exifted there, and I can only account for that
* misfortune by fuppofing a communication with
“ the neighbouring iflands.”
This explanation is certainly the moft natural and
fimple ; but it does not fufficiently account for even
the poffibility of fuch a phenomenon. Though the
iflands of Atooi and Onecheow are feparated from
Mowee only by channels a few leagues wide, it
does not follow that the communication between
thefe iflands muft be fo eafy as to admit of fpread-
ing the venereal difcafe, by that means, among the
inhabitants of Mowee. It alfo appears, from the
accounts of Captain Cook, that thefe iflands are
rarely in amity with each other, without which it can-
not be fuppofed their inhabitants would have fre-
uent communications, And how can we reconcile,
with fuch a fuppofition, the conduct of the inhabi-
tants of Mowee towards that navigator at his landing
on the ifland? Had thefe iflanders had caufe to com-
plain fo bitterly of the ftrangers, who had recently
landed among their neighbours, would they have pro-
vided fo anxioufly for all their wants? Would they
not rather have fhewn repugnance towards that na-
vigator, inflead of incurring the dangers of carry-
ing him the productions of their ifland ? Nor do
I think we can account for fo rapid a contagion,
without admitting that fyphilis may be propagated
like epidemic difeafes, by a particular flate of the
atmofphere,
ere before
mc further
affertions,
icated with
him freth
out at fea,
referve this
' forbidding
women of
t it already
at for that
ation with
natural and
nt for even
Though the
arated from
es wide, it
m between
of fpread-
among the
, from the
iflands are
hich it can-
| have fre-
e reconcile,
he inhabi-
his landing
fe to com-
ad recently
y have pro-
N ould they
s that na-
s of carry-
>» Nor do
contagion,
propagated
ate of the
tmofphere,
EASTER AND MOWEE ISLANDS. 247
atmofphere, concerning which exploded hypothefis
experience has long undeceived evry intelligent fur-
geon and phyfician. It has convinced us, this mala-
dy cau neither be produced by unwholefome, food by
contagion in the air, nor by the fpontaneous corrup-
tion of the humours, but folely by immediate contact
with perfons infected with the virus.
Under all thefe confiderations it appears probable
the venereal difcafe exifted in the Sandwich Iflands
before Captain Cook landed there, and that it was
either indigenous, or had becn carried thither by
fome former navigator.
Hiftorical and geographical refearches may afford
fome light on the origin of the venereal difeafe in
that clufter of iflands, but I omit to difcufs them as
foreign to the intent of this paper *.
GEOGRA-
* Reminding the reader of the notes I have inferted in a former
volume, T cannot refrain from obferving how injurious is the fpirit
of fyftem, and how eager to reject all the arguments unfavourable
to the opinion intended to be eflablifhed. The inhabitants of Mo-
wee received Captain Cook with kindnefs, becaufe, perhaps, they
were ignorant that to him they owed that cruel malady which had
been communicated to them by their neighbours ; and experience
proves that the authors of fimilar evils are readily pardoned,
from the remembrance and fafcination of pleafure. La Péroufk,
who came fome years-after to the Sandwich Iflands, might, in the
eyes of the Indians, eafily be confounded with the: Enylifh. But
did he difcover the leaft appearance of refentment? On the con-
aah he tells us that the conduét of the women univerfally
tended to renew a-communication which the men promoted. The
dangers attending their exchanges, of which M. Rollin takes notice,
have no exiftence with refpeét to men who, being ulmoft amphi-
bious in their habits, find a moft powerful attraétion in a few trink-
ets, or in the great utility of iron, which to them is fo precious, fo
invaluable. As to the rapidity of its communication, can we be
furprifed at it among a people who know no conjugal tie, or right
of property in women, and regard no other laws than thofe of na-
ture?
I perfift, therefore, in the opinion, that my navigators, whether
ancient or modern, who difcovered thefe-iflands of the South Sea,
carried thither the venereal difeafe. I am, however, of opinion,
with fome of the learned, that this difeafe was not even to us a con-
R4 fequence
248 GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR
GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR ON EASTER. ISLAND,
By M. Bernizet, Geographical Engineer.
On the sth of April, 1766, at’ halfipaft{fix in the
evening, being’ to t e-eaftward of “Mand, the
; à b be gp TER }
land a au MR ve em ptédtin the firft
view. The fummit A, and all the déclivities from it
were very well défined ; the, two cxtremitics very
ftecp, and almoft like peaks; the defcent, À H was
indented from H, to nearly its middle,**with three
leffèr fummits ; another defcent A I, on the contrary,
formed two falient, and three returning flexures by
no means abrupt. , Na
The land; which ftretched to the north weft of this
firft, was much: lefs diftin@, and its extremity almoft
entirely obfcured in fog. The fummit K of its higheft
bluff rifes to about two thirds of the higheft elevation,
which is that of the hill A, and is almoft perpen-
dicular at the northern extremity of the defcent K.
Towards the north its defcent is gentle, having two
falient and three returning flexures ; and towards the
fouth, a fingle rife fhelving on both fides and faintly
fequence of the difcovery of the continent of America, where it ap-
pears to have been unknown till it was carried there by fome navi-
ator ; while if we trace back its genealogy, we fhall find it had pro-
ably an earlier exiftence in Europe. It might, however, have been
introduced among us from the Antilles, and perhaps from the
iflands of St. Domingo and Cuba... Be that as it may, let us ftill be
jutt ;- and not forget,.under the impreflion of a malady againft
whofe deftruétive ravages. we are able to defend ourfelves, and
_ which appears to remit its fury while it extends its influence, that
.on the other hand to the fame difcovery we are indebted for bark,
ipecacuanha, gum, or more properly refin of copal, fimarouba, co-
chineal, cocoa, guaiacum, maize, &c. befides the firft hints of many
of our moft ufefuleftablifhments, fuch as our pofts and military hof-
pitals. The arts cannot be unmindful of the knowledge, that difco-
very has procured them, while the Americans themfelves have re-
ceived very few benefits to compenfate the introduétion of the fmall
ox, that {courge which they derived from us, and which has made
uch incalculable ravages among them.—French Editor.
defined,
SLAND,
reer,
“fix in the
“Mand, the
can
ties from it
es very
oe H was
mith ‘three
ke éontrary,
flexures by
weft of this
mity almoft
f its higheft
ft elevation,
oft perpen-
defcent K.
having two
owards the
and faintly
a, where it ap-
by fome navi-
nd it had pro-
er, have been
aps from the
» let us ftill be
alady againft
burfelves, and
fluence, that
bted for bark,
marouba, co-
hints of many
i military hof-
pe, that difco-
elves have re-
n of the {mall
ich has made
ph defined,
PLAN
and Views of
EASTER ISLE,
on the same Scale
oid
AW42S didtant 4 Leagues. LWA S.WaoWNorch dpe Wa? 30 WV.
; View 4. Nord Gape
Aron
Published August 29,1790, hy 1 Stockdale, Piecadiyy,
ON EASTER ISLAND, 249
defined, unites this land to the former, at about one
half its height. Its length is about three fourths of
that from K to I. ::
‘The elevation of land dvetohink to the S. W. of
the point I, is not half the full height, and in length
does not exceed half the diftance between I and H.
Its outline is broken by B, little fteep hills, and one
lower than thefe, which termtnates at the fouth with
a gentle declivity towards the fea. The fog ‘which
enveloped this laft, prevented me from taking its
bearings, nor could we determine the full extent of
the angle under which the ifland was feen.
The fummit bore W. 4° fouth, diftant four leagues,
The point I, weft by fouth one degree weft ;
And the northernmoft cape, weft 1° 30/ north.
On the Oth at 27 minutes pañt fix in the morning,
the land appeared as in view the 2d. The middle of
the ifland L appearcd joined, and of equal height with
the fummit A of the moft cafterly hill mentioned above.
To the fouth-weft of this hill we perceived two mam-
melons B, each appeared of a very rapid and broken
defcent, covered with whitifh rocks. Theland at the
gaft point, which rofe before like a peak, now fenfibly _
funk and became almoft level with the two hills ; its
elevation was then inconfiderable, and varied only
tor about the length of a quarter of a league, by a lit-
tle hill M, flat and broken off perpendicularly to the
weftward. The mammelons appeared lefs diftant
from the fea, and the coaft a little more advanced to
the eaftward. Two hills C and D, in the fecond range,
joined the mammelons by a gentle and very long de-
clivity, with the middle of the ifland. Thcfe two
hills were hollow in the middle of their fummit. The
firft C, was the fmalleft, and appeared the neareft,
Before it was a very inconfiderable rifing ground
and behind it a high land, rather more diftant thar
any we had perceived before, having two well define:
fummits
250 GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR
fummits, and joining at the back of the mammelons
the low land mentioned before.
The middle of the ifland appeared on the third
range, and its declivity, which was uniform to the fea
fhore, was interrupted only by a fmall rifing ground,
nearly like that before the hill C.
The fummit of the hill C appeared hollow, and
nearer to the fea fhore. The breaks in its declivity
were very apparent, and two {mall intermediate hills
joined it with the center L, from which it appcared
as far diftant on the fouth-weft, as it was from the
hill G, on the north-eaft. This laft, which was nearly
of the height of D, was more pointed and rather
Tower than another to which it joined, toward the
north-eaft.
The hill N, next to it, was alfo rather higher, but
its bafe was large, and its north-caftern declivity de-
fcended a little lower than that toward the S. W.
This laft adjoined that of the extremity of the ifland,
which in this part is nearly as elevated as the middle
L, and terminates perpendicularly.
To the weftward of this point, a rock of the fhape
of an obelifk, then became vifible, and afterwards a
little iflot further in the offing, which from its little
elevation could not be difcovered before.
At 32 minutes paft 10, the land appeared as in view
the third; the bafe of this obelifk being concealed
behind the weftern extremity of this iflot. The coaft,
which on the fouth-weft fide was very high, broken
and peaked, prefented to the eye a large and decp
inward finuofity, almoft perpendicular to the eaftern
extremity of the iflot. This finus juft before refem-
bled a large cut, which we were then furprifed to find
was not continued to the level of the fea. Behind
this and on the fecond range, was perceived a conti-
nued creft, the fteep and rugged defcents of which
appeared concave, and its centre being far from the
eye, while the two extremities approached it, and
converged
con
S.
tal ;
ed
qua
pol
Coo
wer(
sw
nor
fa
at ti
Thi
ftoo
ward
pen
cut
frot
I
pros
fout
twee
T
thar
the
tant
land
a lit
mer
whi
fron
I
defc
firu
ed |
that
wef
mid
> mammelons
on the third
rm to the fea
ifing ground,
hollow, and
1 its declivity
rmediate hills
h it appeared
was from the
ch was near!
d and rather
, toward the
r higher, but
declivity de-
d the S. W.
of the ifland,
s the middle
of the fhape
afterwards a
from its little
ed as in view
g concealed
. The coaft,
igh, broken
ree and decp
io the eaftern
before refem-
prifed to find
fea. Behind
ived a conti-
nts: of which
far from the
ched it, and
converged
ON EASTER ISLAND. 251
converged with the fummits of the point 2, and the
5, W.cape. That of the latter was almoft. horizons
tal; the other, on the contrary, gradually defcend-
ed in irregular breaks, ftretching its bafe for three
quarters of a league on the north-north-eaft, to a
point 3, which is that furtheft to the fouthward. of
Cook’s Bay, and ftands before the landing place. We
were rather more than two leagues diftant, to the S.
S. W., from this point 3, when we difcovered to the
northward bearing N. 18° eaft, a low point behind a
fall iflot, lower than the true point, and appearing
at that diftance joined to it by its eaftern extremity.
This was the northernmoft point of Cook’s Bay,
ftood about three leagues diftant, and rofe gently to-
wards the eaft, as far as a fummit O, whence a per-
pendicular let fall to the edge of the fea, would have
cut the point 3 to the eaftward at a finall diftance.
from its extremity.
This fummit appeared on the third range, and ap-
proaching near the eye, as it defcended towards the
fouth-eaft, it joined the land in front. half way be-
tween the points 2 and 3.
The mammelons or hammocks B, more defined
than the lands adjoining the fummit O, appeared on
the fame range, though they were much farther dif-
tant. We began to lofe them behind the eafternmoft
land of the fouth-weft cape, point 1; and above them
a little more to the eafitward, we faw the fummit A,
mentioned above, (views 1 and 2) the declivity of
which had no other interruption in its courfe than
from a very fall hill between it and the eaft point.
From the refult of the courfes and bearings above
defcribed, the chart of Eafter Ifland. has been, con-
firudted. Each of the principal points was determin-
ed by feveral operations ; and from thence it follows,
that this ifland lies very nearly eaft-north-eaft and
weft-fouth- weft in its greateft length, taken from the
middle of the eaftern cape, to the wefiernmoft point
of
252 GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR
of the fouth-weft cape. A line connecting thefe
two points, would pafs within the land along the
fouth-eaftern coaft; it would be rather more than
four leagues in length, and parallel to another line
joing the fouthernmoft land of the eaft cape, to the
fouthernmoft land of the fouth-weft cape ; and the
interval between thefe two lines would be very near
half a league.
A line running along the weftern coaft, and join-
ing the wefternmoft and northernmoft points, would
lie in a direétion north-north-eaft and fouth-fouth-
weft; its length would be two leagues and three
quarters; and interfecting Cook’s Bay, would not
pafs over the Jand till beyond.the north point of that
bay.
A third Hine, beginning at the north point, and
ending in the middle of the eaftern cape, would run
along the north coaft, which is the third fide of the
ifland, interfecting the two moft confiderable points,
Gonzales Bay, where the Spaniards anchored in Oc-
tober 1770, and the northernmoft land of the eaftern
cape. This line muft run ceaft by fouth 5° fouth,
and weft by north 5° north. Its length is two
leagues three quarters.
The figure of this ifland is therefore an ifofceles
triangle, the longeft fide of which, on the fouth-eaft,
is rather more than four leagues, the adjacent angles
meafure each 41°, that oppofite the bafe 98° and the
northern and “weftern fides, are cach two leagues
three quarters long.
From thefe data, it would be eafy to afcertain its fu-
perficial meafurement; but the calculation would be
imperfect, and the amount lefs than the true quanti-
ty, becaufe the total meafurement of the capes and
points flretching into the fea is greater than that of
the fweep of the creeks and bays. This: amount
would, therefore, be found only 30,870,671 fquare
toifes
ecting thefe
ad along the
r more than
another line
cape, to the
pe; and the
be very near
aft, and join-
points, would
fouth-fouth-
es and three
y, would not
point of that
th point, and
e, would run
rd fide of the
erable points,
hored in Oc-
of the eaftern
th 5° fouth,
ength is two
e an ifofceles
e fouth-eaf,
ijacent angles
08° and the
two leagues
certain its fu-
ion would be
true quanti-
he capes and
than that of
This: amount
0,671 fquare
toifes
ON EASTER ISLAND. © 253
toifes *, inftead of 34,935,319, which is about the
true meafurement of its fuperficies. The difference
of thefe two fums is 4,004,648 toifes, very nearly
ual to + of a fquare league : and the whole fuper-
ficial extent is therefore four fquare leagues and two
tentlis. :
The depth of water in Cook’s bay, varies from ten
fathoms over a bottom of coral at 200 toifes from
the fhore, to 50 fathoms with a bottom of fand and
ftones, at the diftance of half a league weft of the
fandy creek. The bottom fhelves rapidly, and an an-
chor will not hold, except for a fmall fpace round
the place where our fhips lay ; a little further in the
offing the depth would be too great to anchor in; and
nearer the land the coral would cut the cables, and by
the wefterly winds blowing in fhore a veflel would be
embayed on the coaft. ‘Thefe winds, which are very
rare in this parallel, would not, however, be {0 ftrong
as to prevent her from getting to the northward.
From the chart of this ifland given by the Spani-
ards it appears, the fame foundings are met with
nearly throughout its whole circumference. By this
chart I have laid down the north coaft, which we
were not able to fee as near as the twoothers. The
Spaniards anchored on the open coaft, and in foul
ground ; and the prevailing winds there blowing al-
ways in fhore, there is no reafon to prefer their an-
chorage to that of Cook’s Bay.
The particular plan of this bay has been taken by a
fingle operation, eftimating at each bearing the dif-
tances which, in the courfe of furvey, were deduced
from the points already laid down. The topography
is the lefs firiking, as the declivity of the different
bluffs is more gentle, and the fteepneffes are lefs nu-
* The Paris toife, as fet off on the ftandard kept in the Royal
Society, contains 76,710 Englith inches by the fame ftandard; and
the Englifh yard is to the Paris toife nearly as 107 to 228.—
Tranflator’s note,
merous :
254. GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR
merous : yet it would be difficult to reach their fum-
mits, on-account of the. immenfe..quantity...of fiones.
which. cover the furface, wereyit not, for paths whic,
intesfect, aap ifland in all,dire@ions.. Thelwidth of
thefe : does not: exceed: a foot. and a half; they.
were all firm and unobftracted with any ftones, lead,
ing ping ly tothe huts and cemeteriesor morais,
Some of; t su
dal, The walls, A, are very thick ; the roof, B,
fig. Fe ie of large fiones, a little arched withs
in fides. wad placed acrofs, refting at both,ends on the
wpright wall. À fmall opening, C, at the, extremity
of the Anal axis, D, ferves for a door anda window;
only.one perfon at a time can pafs through it, and
that,not without. crawling on his hands and kneea,
The walls are neither plaiftered: nor roughicaft, and
the infide i is not divided into different apartments. :
Feet.
24 Frengh
“16
Length of the tranfverfe axis
of the conjugate’ ditto
Height i in the center -
* ‘Height at the top of the ellipfis
Thigknefs of the wall 2
Height of the aperture or door
“Width of ditto - oe -
Ten fect before the opening, ian on the elongation
of the.fmall axis, is a door G, the fummit of which
is below the level of the ground. The uprights H,
the cornice I, and the fill K land K H ig. 2.) are
of ftones very well fquared and fitted amir, A -
out cement. The approach to it is by a uniform de-
fcent L (fig. 3.) the declivity of which is very gentle,
and the earth fupported on each fide by a lining of
ftones;: moft of which are 2 feet 10 inches long, 2
feet broad, and 10 inches thick. Four fteps of a /ad-
der N, alfo of hewn ftone, terminate the. flope, a
ea
aly &
fe huts are. sconftructed of dry rough,
flonc{vide à eps fig. 1.) and, their fhape ellipfois.
ÉD AE Se wae 1 ‘
AR pate. - eme
CL LCL
h their fum-
ty..of-fioncs.
paths whick,
‘he width of
a half; they,
ftones, leads.
egor morais,
dry rough,
ape ellipfois.
the roof, B,
arched withs
vends on the,
he,extremity.
da window,
ough it, and
, and knees,
yh jcaft, and
artments. :
24 French,
t
’
Oly ; Hs
are 4 ;
.
© © à À
e elongation
mit of which
- uprights Hy,
(fig. 2.) are
wether with-
uniform de-
s very gentle,
ry a lining of
ches long, 2
teps of a lad-
€ flope, and
lea
te
SE D'LA wor
LLEELLODDP -
eZ ee
|_|
AEA tATATA ==
\F
tad
a
Le
2.240) IDOLÊ 21,10 FFORLOZ
ms
zt
LCL Lo
CZ
is
| sl
| i
UE | =
1 &
NN | \ >
\Q -
zp:
ila Lc
OW 227 ROUX MOTE PE Jo UNOS
UD) Wail D 10 UIPIS
OF, EASTER ISLAND, . 255
lead to the, entrance, of a fubterraneous; cavern O, ex-
cavated from the rock: Its form,, which, except in
fize, exactly refembles that, of the cottage above
ground, is truncated at one of the fummits P of the
elliptical bafe. ' | F
The iflanders in forming thefe caverns, have often
taken advantage of natural cavities, which are fre-
quently found. in the. maflas.formed by the torrents of
lava, For this reafon they. are often irregular, and
fome.are found at a diftance from;any cottage ; but
wherever the projecting points of the rock can be
removed by fimple means, they feem always to give
them their favourite fhape, and then the mean di-
menfions of them are as follow.
let Feet. Inches.
Depth of the cavern, er length. of its
tranfverfe axis : … - - - 30 O
Width at the middle - - - 11 0
Height inthe center - - : - 5 6
Width of the door - - - 2.0
Height of ditto - - - 2/3. 0
In thefe fubterraneous caverns the inhabitants ftore
their, provifions, utenfils, wood,, and in general alt
their poffeffions.
At a {mall diftance from the cottage and cavern
san oven without a covering ; being only a round
hole dug in the earth, the-area and walls of which are
lined with rough ftones.
Its diameter is wi $ 3 feet.
Depth - - - 2
It may be remarked alfo that in the elevation (fig.
4,) the north-eaft fide, on which the winds general-.
ly blow, is higher than the reft, and that the top of
the cottage ferves for aterrace. This kind of fcreen
may alfo protect them againft the rain, which, coming
in fqualls, feldom falls perpendicularly. i
-T
256 GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR
” The fame plan is obferved in other cottages fituat-
éd in the middle of confiderable plantations. Thefe
have the ellipfis of the ground plan A ‘vety eccentric
(fig. 5.) and are very natrow in proportion to their
length. Their foundations B are of hewn ftone funk
throughout their breadth in the ground. Their aver-
agé length is two feet, and their thicknefs fix inches,
having holes at different intervals to receive the ftakes
C (fig. 6.) each ferving for main timbers, and meeting
other tranfverfe ftakes D, Thefe laft terminate the
roof, and are fupported by perpendicular ftakes E,
fixed in the ground at intervals of ten feet. The
main timbers are bound Es Ne by tranfverfe perches
reaching along the whole length at two feet diftance
from each other. The higheft point isin the center,
and if a plane perpendicular to the tranfverfe axis of
the ellipfis were made to- pafs through the roof, this
would alfo be of a femi-clliptical form. (See the
plan, the framing and the vertical fection, taken lon-
gitudinally, fig. 5,6, 7.) - The whole is covered with
rufhes of nine or ten lines-diameter at the lower énd,
united together like matts, by threads twifted with
the hand. The two doors, one on each fide, are not
larger than thofe of the fmall cabins ; and the oven
of the fame fize with that before defcribed, is palifa-
doed to the windward.
. Tranfverfe axis of the ellipfis 310 feet.
, Conjugate ditto - - 10
Height at the center - 10
Height at the extremities es ae
Widthatditto” - - | 3
‘ Tt cannot be faid, however, that the form of the
large dwellings is invariable ; for fome of them make
towards the middle, either in the ground plan or the
elevation, a fharper curvature than that of the ellipfis.
+ The finall cabins are of the ordinary form; and moft
of them fo very fmall as not without difficulty to afford
: room
ttages fituat-
ions. Thefe
ety eccentric
tion to their
m ftone funk
Their aver-
efs fix inches,
ive the ftakes
,and meeting
‘erminate the
ular ftakes E,
n feet. The
fverfé perches
> feet diftance
in the center,
ifverfe axis of
the roof, this
m. (See the
on, taken lon-
3 covered with
he lower end,
s twifted with
fide, are not
and the oven
bed, is palifa-
310 feet.
10
10
A
3
e form of the
of them make
d plan or the
of the ellipfis.
orm; and moft
culty to afford
room
ON EASTER ISLAND. 257
room enough for fix perfons. Some have at the en-
trance a covered portico, which architects would per-
haps call either a niche or perifyle, though it deferves
neither the one nor the other of thefe names. .
There are alfo hollow rocks, under which the
islanders find fhelter. The {oil of thefe retreats is co-
vered with rufhes, and the wind freely circulates
through them, whence they appear to be intended for
fummer habitations. |
The cemeterics or moraïs, (fig. 8,9, and 10,)
are of a more remarkable conftruction ; and though
their dimenfions are very various, they are conftantly
of the fame undeviating form. On an inclined plane,
like that of the foil, is erected a floping wall A,
built with the hewn ftones before defcribed. The
height of this wall is proportioned to the declivity of
the ground ; and on its fummit is fixed a horizontal
platform B, made of rough ftone, on which are
placed horizontally, and let into the former, rectan-
gular pieces of hard ftone C, as a bafe for fupport-
ing feveral almoft fhapelefs maffes D, refemabling
bufts. To thefe figures are added, as may be feen
in the plate, crowns or capitals E, perfectly cylin.
drical, and a little concave in the under part, to
admit the head. This is of red lava, extremely
light and porous. Two fteps F, below the plat-
form, made in the fame manner, and covered with
the fame fione, lead, by a gentle defcent, to an ef-
planade, bounded by a kind .of parapet, apparently
made of the earth which bad been dug up to level
the ground. There are alfo fome fteps, on the upper
part of which is a plinth, running along the whole
length, on which arc rudely .reprefented the figures
of recumbent fkeletons, Near the lower ftep, to-
wards the,efplanade, are entrances or narrow trenches,
leading to a fubterraneous cavern, in which are a great
quantity of human bones. Of this cavern the form
Vou. II. lial is
258 GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR .
is vory irregular, and its fize by no means depends
even on that of the morai.
Feet. Inches,
Height of the wall = -
*Length of the platform
Breadth of ditto -
Height of the fteps
Breadth of ditto -
art of the efplanade
adth of ditto - -
eight ofalarge buft = - -
from the ‘bafe to the chin -
———— from the chim to the top of
the head -
to the underpart of the nofe
Length of the nofe - - -
Projcétion of the nofe - -
Breadth of the nofe at the lower part
Length of the cars - e
Longeft digmeter of the orbit
Ditto of the e
Leffer ditto of À the eye - =
Breadth at the bafe - -
at the ears - -
at the fhoulders -
at the neck - +
Thicknefs at ditto - -
rat the belly - -
a ft of the capital - ,
iameter - e -
SOC 90000
ch
Or DOOSHOSOCOCOROPQ
à OO © © D NS GO OO = KH NH O- be a
Thefe meafures are taken from one of the monu-
monts in particular; their dimenfions are extremely
various. Although moft of the fiones ufed in thete
ftructures ave very well fquared, it may ‘he remarked,
* We faw one 267 feet long.
+ Almoft all of them are much fmaller, L
that
ans depends
Feet. Inches,
8 O
80 DO
12 O
2 oO
3 0
384 O
324 O
14 6
g 6
5 O
1 6
] 8
© 10
‘ 1 2
2 O
1 O
1 oO
O 10
6 o
5 3
7 6
4 0
3 O
3 6
3}
4 9
bf the monu-
are extremely
ufed in thete
‘he remarked,
that
ON EASTER ISLAND. ‘ 259
that fome of them are rather convex on every fide ;
which feems to fhew they have not been cut, but
ground into fhape; and the exact parallelifm of the
greater part is no proof to the contrary, as the de:
gree of perfection muft depend on the fkill of the
workman. The difficulty of carrying and raifing
them, without machines, will difappear when it is
confidered, that by a certain number of hands, fome
ropes, two levers, and three wooden rollers, the
heavieft maffes may not only be ‘drawn, but raifed
and fet up.
Their plantations are very numerous, and the fields,
which are planted with yams and potatoes, are all of
a rectangular figure. They have not, like fome of
the paper-mulberry plantations, either hedge or en-
clofure. Thofe of the bananas are difpofed in the
order called quincunx *, and kept up with great
care. The coaft is every where ficep, and there are
very few creeks that afford a landing. It is remark-
able that no channels are met with directing the
courfe of the water, which is doubtlefs loft among
the innumerable loofe ftones with which the ifland
is covered. Not a fingle river, or even a brook,
watered any of the places we vifited ; and only a few
inconfiderable cavities, on the tops of rocks, con-
tained a fmall quantity of very ill-tafted water. Trees
are no lefs fcarce, for we could difeover nothing juftly
deferving that name. |
At nine in the morning, of the 10th of April,
the ifland being diftant about 13 leagues, appcared
as in view (4.) At the middle of the ifland, about
the fummit of North Cape, though involved in mift,
we could diftinguifh its efcarpments ; it joined the
fea, on the weftern fide, by a pretty gentle and
regular declivity. The eaftern fide was alfo very
* This arrangement exactly refembles that of the five pips.on
Playing cards. Jranflatar.
S 2 regular,
260 PHYSIOLOGICAL MEMOIR
regular, and rather longer than the foriner. The
height at the two points, called by the Spaniards Sax
Juan and Sania Rofaha, rifing above it at its extre-
mity, appeared in front ; and the low lands of the
coaft, between the three principal capes, were ob-
fcured. The fummit A of the eaftern cape, indif-
tint, and completely feparated from the reft, ap-
peared like another ifland. Its height was half that
of the middle, and the interval between the two was
equal to the bafe of the principal divifion. That of
the eaftern cape appeared only equal to a quarter of
the former.
The fouth-weft cape was ftill perceivable in the
weft, though very low and indiftinét ; it was almoft
flat, and its diftance from the central land was only
half the bafe of this latter.
The fummit of the ifland bore S. 15° E.
The fummit of A, the eafiern cape, S. 25° E.
And the fouth-weftern cape, S. 9° E.
(Signed) BERNIZET.
On board the Bouffole, April 18, 1786.
mena © vf © Elena
PHYSIOLOGICAL AND PATHOLOGICAL MEMOIR ON
THE AMERICANS.
By M. Rollin, M. D. Surgeon Major of the Boufolt
Frigate.
WHEN I firft commenced this undertaking, I was
unacquainted with the paper of inftructions fent by
the Medical Coilege to M. de la Péroufe : unforefeen
accidents deprived me of that affiftance, but though
I may not have completely obtained the object which
the College has propofed, I entreat them to receive
with indulgence, my obfervations on the fame aon
oriner. The
Spaniards San
. at its extre-
lands of the
pes, were ob-
1 cape, indif-
the reft, ap-
was half that
a the two was
ion. That of
o a quarter of
eivable in the
it was almoft
land was only
Oh:
S. 25° E.
E.
BERNIZET.
MEMOIR ON
if the Bouffole
ertaking, I was
étions fent by
fe : unforefeen
e, but though
e object which
em to receive
e fame fubject.
Of
ON THE AMERICANS. 261
Of the Natives of Chili.
In the frame of body which thefe Americans have
received from Nature, there appears nothing cxtraor-
dinary. Their ftature is generally lower than that
of the French, and they appear much lefs robuft : yet
they fupport with fortitude all the fatigues of war,
and the hardfhips and privations which follow in its
train. On various occafions they have checked the
arms of the Spaniards, and fomctimes even borne
away the palm of victory. Their hiftory abounds in
examples of courage, by which they have defervedly
obtained even from the proudeft of the Spaniards;
the glorious appellation of Indios bravos, or brave
Indians ; a title, the remembrance of which fill re-
flets a ray of honour on their fubjugated defcendants.
The fame general character of countenance is re-
markable in almoft every individual of this nation.
Their face is broad, and rounder than that of Euro-
peans; their features coarfe; their eyes fmall, dull,
black, and deep-feated. ‘Their forehead is low, their
eyebrows black and full; and their nofe fhort, broad,
and flat. They have prominent cheek-bones, thick
lips, a large mouth, a chin that projects but little, and
ears of the ordinary fhape.
The women are fmall, ill made, and of a forbidding
countenance. I did not fee one among them that
could boaft that foftnefs of feature, that grace and
elegance of form which conftitute the ufuai charac-
teriftic of the fex.
Both men and women pierce their ears, and the
cartilage of the nofe, which they ornament with
trinkets of glafs and mother of pearl. The colour
of their fkin is a reddifh brown, and that of their
nails fomewhat deeper. The hair of both fexes is
black, very ftrong, and very thick. The men have
very little beard, but their axillæ, and pubis, are
D 3 | very
262 PHYSIOLOGICAL MEMOIR
very well fupplicd, while the women are in general
without hair in both thofe parts.
Of the Aborigines of California,
This nation is fituated at the fame. diftance. from
the line in the northern hemifphere, as the inhabi-
tants of Chiliin the fouthern.
During our ftay at Montcrey I had occafion to
examine a great number of individuals of both fexes,
and I obferved but little refemblance between them
and. the natives of Chili, They are taller, and their
mufcles more ftrongly marked, but they are not fo
courageous or intelligent. They have low forcheads,
black and thick eyebrows, black and hollow eyes; a
fhort nofe deprefitd at the root, and their check--bones
projecting. They have a mouth rather large, thick
lips, {trong and fine teeth, and a chin and ears of the
common form. They are extremely indolent, very in-
curious, and almoft ftupid. In walking they turn in
their toes, and even their ftep, thus tottering and in-
firm, difcovers at firft fight their characteriftic pufil-
Janimity. |
‘The women of California have fome particular qua-
lities peculiar to themfelves, and not obfervable in
thofe of Chili. They are taller and their limbs more
regularly formed ; their figure is generally better dc-
fined, and their countenance lefs forbidding.
The hair of both thefe nations is very nearly fimi-
lar, but the Californians have their beard and their
pubis more covered with it than the natives of Chili.
Yet I have remarked a great number of the men to-
tally devoid of beard, and the women alfo have very
little hair either on the pudendum or in the axillæ.
I was: informed thefe particulars were folely the ef-
fects of art, and that the men are accuftomed to pluck
out. their beards, and the women thefe tufts of hair
with bivalved fhells or a cleft ftick.
Fhis affertion appeared to be confirmed, by ob-
ferving
are in general
id.
diftance from
s the inhabi.
d occafion to
of both fexes,
between them
ler, and their
hey arc not fo
ow aps
ollow eyes ;
r cheek. hanes
er large, thick
nd ears of the
olent, very in-
| they turn in
tering and in-
Steriftic pufil-
articular qua-
obfervable in
‘ir limbs more
lly better de-
ding.
y nearly fimi-
sard and their
tives of Chili,
f the men to-
alfo have very
in the axille.
folely the ef.
med to pluck
tufts of hair
rmed, by ob-
ferving
ON THE AMBHICANS, 266:
ferving that fome of the men who were béardlefs, had:
notwithftanding a great deal of hair on other parts of
their bodies, anid the’ women whofe axillas and: pu-
denda were bare, had a quantity of downy hair on!
their legs and arins:
- Thefe Americans alfo paint their fkin by wa of
ornament. ‘They pearce their ears and wear inithemi
trinkets of various kinds and fafhions. ‘Their fkin is
tawny, and their nails of a lighter colour: thar: thofe
ofthe inhabitants of Chili.
Of the Americans who inhabit the Neighbourhood of
Baie des Françass.
THESE people bear very little refemblince:to the
Californians. They are larger, more robuft, of 4
more agreeable figure, fufceptible of the: greateft vi-
vacity of expreffion, and are'very fuperior to'thent in
courage and intellect. They Rave rather’a low fore-
head, but more open than that of the Americans of
the fouth : ; black and animated eyes; much’ thicker
eyebrows, a nofe of a regular fhaÿe and fize, rather
wide at the’ extremity s lips not flefhy; a mouth of
a middle fize, fine and’ well fet tecth,. and the chin
and ears: very regular.
The women are equally fuperior to thé Americans
I have fpoken of, and have more fiwéetnefs in’ their
countenance, as well’ as moré grave in their limbs.
Their faces would be fill more agreeable, if they
had not adopted the abfurd cuftom of w earing. as an
embellithment in their under lip;-a-fimall piece of wood
of an elliptical form. It is a little concave on both
fides, as well as round the edges, and is commonly
half an inch thick, two inches in diameter, and three
in length.
This lip-piece not only disfigures them, but caufes
an involuntary flow of faliva, equally’ inconvenient
and diiguiting ; yet the women alone ufe it as an
ornament,
064 PHYSIOLOGICAL MEMOIR
ornament, and prepare their infant girls from the mo,
ment of their birth for its reception.
For that purpofe, they pierce the under lip witha
kind of pin, either of copper or gold, which they
leave in the aperture, or fix in it a ring of the fame
metal, which the girls retain till the age of puberty,
At this period they gradually increafe the aperture,
by fubftituting in lieu of this pin or ring, firft a fmall,
and then a larger piece of wood, progreffively in-
creafing its fize, till it attains to the dimenfions before
ftated. |
This frange cuftom fhows how far the lip may be
dilated to remedy the deformity of thefe parts, when
chirurgical ‘operations render a partial defiruction of
them neceffary.
This people are of an olive colour; and their
nails, which they wear very long, are of a fainter hue;
but it may be remarked that the fkin varies jn its
fhades, being lighter in fome individuals, and on
thofe parts of the body which are not expofed to the
action of the air and fun.
Their hair is commonly not fo firong and black,
as thofe of the South American, and I obferved a
great many individuals, in whom its colour was that
of achefnut. They have alfoa fuller beard, and the
axillæ and pubis much better fupplied with hair.
The perfect equality of their teeth, induced me at
firft to fuppofe it the effect of art, but on examin-
ing more nearly, and with greater attention, I could
perceive no deftruétion of the enamel, and therefore
concluded nature muft have conferred on them that
regularity.
This nation paint their body and face, tattoo them-
felves, and pierce their ears, and the cartilage of the
nofe.
Some writers imagine the cuftom of painting the
body, which prevails fo univerfally among the nations
of Africa, of the Weft Indies, and of America, is on-
ly
om the mo.
r lip witha
which they
of the fame
of puberty,
he aperture,
firft a fmall,
reffively in-
fions before
lip may be
parts, when
efiruction of
; and their
fainter hue;
varies jn its
als, and on
pofed to the
r and black,
I obferved a
bur was that
ard, and the
th hair.
uced me at
on examin-
ion, I could
d therefore
them that
attoo them-
ilage of the
painting the
the nations
erica, is on-
ly
ON THE AMERICANS. 265
ly intended as a defence againft venomous. infeéts ;
but my own obfervation led me to believe its fole ob-.
ject is to adorn and embellifh their perfons.
J found the fame cuftom eftablifhed among the in-
habitants of Eafter Ifland, and the natives of Baie
des Francais, Yet I faw among thefe people neither
infects nor reptiles of a venomous nature, I re-
marked alfo, that they never painted their bodies ex-
cept when they came to vifit us, and that in their
own habitations they were neyer found with this or-
nament,
General Obfervations.
Thofe writers who have confidered the Ameri
cans as a degenerate race have followed the wander-
ings of their own imagination, without any regard ta
truth, i
Some have even extended this reproach of dege-
neracy to Eyropeans naturalized in America: but a
Wafhing* »n, an Adams, and a Franklin, have already
refuted that aflertion, with the greateft honour to
themfelves, and rendered any difcuffion of the fub-
ject from me fuperfluous.
To me it appears, thefe writers have been equally
unhappy in thejr opinions upon the pretended de-
generacy of animals, brought from the ancient to the
new continent,
As ta the exiftence of any defect or particular mo-
dification in the internal ftruéture of the parts of ge-
neration in thefe nations, which has been alfo attri-
buted to the degencracy of the human fpecies in
America, I have not had any poffible means ot mak-
ing the refearchcs neceflary to determine the fact.
But judging of the organifation of thofe parts from
the perfection of their external appearance, I fhould
deem them completely free from defect,
Nor have I ever difcovered among thefe people
cither an enlargement of the fcrotum, a prodigious
{welling
266 PHYSIOLOGICAL MEMOIR
fwelling of the penis, or men whofe breafts yield milk
as deferibed by fome navigators; neither have I ob.
ferved any favage nation {wifter of foot, or more: per-
fect in the organs of fenfe than Europeans: If any
difference exifts in the perfection of thefe faculties, the
advantages preponderate in favour of civilized nations,
* ‘The natural progrefs of life among thefe nations,
in all its periods of increafe and decay, appears to be
the fame as with us, but the climate, their mode of
life, and other habits, may have introduced fome
flight differences.
At Chili and. California the appearance of the
beard and the change of the voice announce the
age of puberty, in males about their thirteenth year,
The girls arrive at puberty about the age of eleven
or twelve, of which the enlargement of the breafts,
and the appearance of the menftrual flux are the
ofual indications. The quantity of this periddical
evacuation varies, in different individuals, according
to their conftitution and manner of living. If no
accident interrupts the natural courfe, it takes place
every month, and continues from three toreight days,
Women are fubject to it until about the fortieth
year, but it is not uncommon for fome to: afford
figns of fecundity at a more advanced age.
Old age and decrepitude announce themfelves
among thefe nations, as in civilized’ countries, by
the decreafe of the humours, the lofs or decay of
the fight and other fenfes, and a change of colour in
the hair of the head and beard.
Women who have borne feveral children have their
breafts loofe and pendent, and the fkin of the pelvis
corrugated, like Europeans in fimilar cafes, without
any obfervable difference.
Thefe nations have very nearly the fame paffions,
the fame fports, and the fame manner of living;
are equally violent in the expreffion of joy and an-
ger, which the flighteft aCtion is fufficient to exe"
") huic
ts yield milk
>have I ob.
ir more: per-
ans: Tf any
faculties, the
ized nations,
jefe nations,
ppears to be
1eir mode of
duced fome
ance of the
nnounce the
rteenth year,
re of eleven
f the breatts,
flux are the
is periodical
ls, according
ving. If no
t takes place
toreight days,
t the fortieth
me to' afford
ge.
e themfelves
countries, by
s or decay of
of colour in
ren have their
of the pelvis
afcs, without
ame pañlions,
er of living;
f joy and ai an-
ent to exe:
d'ho vic
ON THE AMERICANS. 267
Thofe of Baie des Francais ave addicted to theft,
audacious, irrafcible to an excefs, and the moft ta
be dreaded by ftrangers.
Their food is commonly game or fifh; “but al-
though hunting and fifhing afford them an abun-
dant fupply of freth provifions, they prefer fich as are
tainted and almoft ina ftate of putrefaétion, rather
than give themfelves the leaft trouble to procure
wholefome food. ‘Their love of indolence renders.
them: ftill lefs: delicate in the preparation of their
aliment. When. prefled by hunger they take no
trouble to: drefs their food, but fimply broil-it on the
afhes, or boil it in a wooden bowl, full of water,
throwing in redshot ftones, which they renew, until
the operation of cooking is completed.
The hours of eating are fometimes determined by
their appetite, but in general each: family aflémbles.
at the clofe of the day to their common repaf.
The inhabitants of California and Baie des Fran-
çais, make no ufe of vegetables, except a few pine-
nuts, and other fummer fruits, which, . however,
conftitute no effential part of their food. Idlenefs
alone makes them ubftemious, but when abundance
tempts, they become voracious gluttons.
Thefe nations are divided into hords, each of
which commonly forms:a little hamlet. Their cabins
are made of rufhes, or the branches of trees, fupport-
ed with four ftakes, and: covered chiefly with flattened
bark. They are either of a fquare or conical form,
afford little protection from the weather, and are
neither ftable nor commodious. The entrance is low
and narrow ; and the hearth being placed in ihe mid-
dle.of the hut, the fmoke efcapes throug! 1 a hole in
the roof.
The Americans lie together on fkins, fatead round
the fire‘in a diforderly manner, without any diftinc-
tion, either of fex or age. They are very carelefs in
the conftruétion of their huts, as from the cxtreme
volatility
268 PHYSIOLOGICAL MEMOIR
volatility of their character they foon abandon them
for others, which they not-unfrequentty ereét by the:
fide of thofe they have juft quitted. For thefe
erections they prefer the banks of rivers, and the
fouth fide of mountains. ARTE
The only dwellings I faw on this coaft, that were
folid and of tolerable magnitude, belonged to an
horde that had fettlcd on the banks of a {mall river,
well fupplied with fith, about four miles from Baie
des Français. Thefe cabins were conftruéted of large
boards, or very thick planks ; they were of a rectan-
gular form, about fifteen feet: in‘ height, and would '
contain thirty or forty perfons. The doors, which
were low and narrow, opened by fliding in grooves,
Within nothing remarkable prefented itfelf. We
could only perceive a kind of feat, on which the
women and children were occupied in making va-
rious domeftic utenfils. On the little river adjoining
thefe habitations a fifhery was eftablifhed, the con-
ftruction and difpofition of which is no lefs inge-
nious than at that defcribed by M, Duhamel.
The men devote themfelves chiefly to warlike ex-
exercifes, to hunting and to fifhing. Their arms
confifting of the bow, the javelin, and the dagger,
The women, on the contrary, feem peculiarly occu-
pied in the preparation of their food, and the domef-
tic concerns of their family. Though they live un-
der the dominion of men of a very ferocious difpo-
fition, I could not difcover that they are treated in
the barbarous manner which navigators commonly
reprefent : I even remarked that, on many occafions,
they were regarded with refpect and deference.
It appears that thefe nations admit of polygamy,
but their marriages laft no longer than is agree-
able to both parties. To the exclufive poffeffion of
their women they attach little importance, often en-
dcavouring to make a market of their favours, which
they
indon them
reét by the:
For thefe
rs, and the
, that were
nged to an
fmall river,
from Baie
sted of large
of a rectan-
and would '
Dors, which
in grooves,
itfelf. We
which the
making va-
er ne 4 di
1, the con-
> lefs inge-
él.
warlike ex-
heir arms
the dagger,
liarly occu-
the domef-
ey live un-
ious difpo-
treated in
commonly
occafions,
ence.
polygamy,
n is agree-
ofleffion of
, often en-
ours, which
they
ON THE AMERICANS. 269
they fell for a piece of old iron, or a few glafs
beads.
Though the natives of this part of America form
large tribes, and have even a community of inte-
refts, and of manners, yet each family feems to live
in a manner unconnected with the reft, and to pof-
fefs a peculiar government of its own. Thefe fami-
lies have their Chiefs, their huts, their canoes, their
implements for the chace and for fifhing, and, in-
deed, all the various means of defence or fubfiftence.
I thought I difcovered fome Chiefs who appeared to
command feveral families, but for whom the indivi-
duals of cach feemed to entertain but little de-
ference.
Thefe Chicfs excel the other inhabitants in fta-
ture, in ftrength, and even in courage. They are
generally covered with cnormous fcars, which they
affect to confider as teftimonials of their valour ; and
are diftinguifhed by a kind of luxury and decoration
difplayed in their head-drefs and habiliments. The
drefs of the women confifts of a leathern fhift, de-
fcending to the middle of the leg, and a mantle of
fkins, which covers them from the fhoulders to the
knee. The men wear a fimilar mantle, and have a
fhirt of leather, and bufkins of feal’s fkin, but their
feet are commonly naked.
It is difficult, if not impoffible for a traveller,
who does not underftand the language of thefe
Americans, and who but imperfectly knows their
cuftoms, to give exact notions of their domeftic
economy, or a methodical and fatisfactory defcrip-
tion of the difeafes with which they are afflicted ;
but it cannot be doubted their manner of living,
their immoderate indulgence in pleafure, together
with the viciffitudes of their climate, muft fubject
them to many infirmities. I fhall therefore enter
into fome details concerning. the difeafes of the abo-
rigines
270 PHYSIOLOGICAL MEMOIR
rigines of California, the great number of Americans
aflembled together in the miffion of San Carlos,
having furnithed me with an opportunity of fecing
many of the fick, and making obfervations on the
nature of their difeafes. In this labour I was affitted
by Father Matthias, the miffionary, and M. Carba-
jola, furgeon of that colony.
Great changes of temperature are experienced at
California in all feafons of the year; the influence
of which on the inhabitants oecations diforders pecu-
liar to the country ; and notwithftanding they feem
habituated to the various inclemencies of the wea-
ther, they are more fubject than Europeans to difeafcs
arifing from a continued exccfs of heat.
Sore throats, catarrhs, pleurifies, and peripneumio-
nies, are the ordinary difeafes of the winter feafon.
The remedies employed in the treatment of thefe
difeafes, confift of decoétions made of plants, which
they afterwards pound, and apply to the epiglottis,
or other parts affected. When thefe difeafes have
attained a certain degree of violence, they common:
ly degenerate, through this improper treatment, into
chronical diforders; and they who have furvived
their effe&ts under the development of their firft
character, do not fail to end their days fhortly in
pthifis, or pulmonic confumption.
Ephemeral and intermittent fevers, and dyfpepfia,
are chiefly remarkable in fpring and autumn.
J am uncertain whether thefe nations are ac:
quainted with any remedy in the treatment of fe-
vers as a fuccedaneum for ‘bark. Their practice ap-
pears entirely confined to exciting a vomit, by forcing
the finger down the throat, and procuring copious
fweats by a kind of flove baths, which J fhall de-
fcribe ‘hereafter.
The difeafes moft general in fummer are fevers of
various kinds, putrid, petechial, inflammatory, ‘and
bilious, together with the dyfentery. The want of
care
F Americans
San Carlos,
y of fecing
ons on the
was affificd
M. Carba-
Jerienced at
1e influence
orders pecu-
y they feem
of the wea-
ns to difeafcs
peripneumo-
inter feafon.
ant of thefe
jlants, which
e epiglottis,
lifeafes have
éy common-
atment, into
ave furvived
of their firft
¢ fhortly in
d dyfpepfia,
mn.
ons are ac:
ment of fe-
practice ap-
it, by forcing
fing copious
h I fhall de-
are fevers of
matory, and
The want oi
care
ON THE AMERICANS. 271
care or knowledge in the treatment of thefe difeafes
almoft conftantly produces diftreffing fymptoms, to
which the patient generally falls a victim, unlefs the
efforts of nature are fufficient to produce a falutary
evacuation, either by fiool, urine, or perfpiration.
It may be obferved, that thefe critical evacuations are
almoft always favourable to the patient when they
occur from the eleventh to the twenty-firft days :
but the difeafes moft formidable are the inflammato-
ry and bilious fevers, the progrefs of which is fo vio-
lent, that the patient has rarely firength to refift
them.
Befides thefe various difeafes, the inhabitants of
California are liable to nervous fever, rheumatifm,
prurient eruptions, opthalmia, fyphilis, and epi-
lepfy. Atthe miffion of San Carlos I faw a woman
afflicted with the latter, the periodical attacks of
which ufually lafted two hours.
Though the greater part of thefe Americans are
affected with opthalmia and the itch, they are not
addicted to the ufe of fpirituous liquors, and eat
neither frefh nor falt pork, generally faid to be the
caufe of thefe difeafes, and of tetters and other cuta-
neous eruptions with which they are fo generally af-
flited. Nor dol think they can be attributed with
greater probability to the cuftom of tattooing'and
painting the fkin.
Though theïnhebitants of Baie des Français have
the fame cuftoms, and live in extreme naftinefs, ex-
amples of the itch, or the leaft trace of it, are very
rare. I fhould add, that in our fleets ftationed in
America, during the laft war, I obferved that after a
fay of five or fix months, tetters appeared on the
greater number of the feamen, and not unfrequently
on the officers, which refifted almoft all the remedies
applied at thofe places, whereas in moft cafes by only
palling into a temperate climate, they difappeared
ipontaneoufl y. el
‘From
272 PHYSIOLOGICAL MEMOIR
From all thefe circumftances, it appears certain
that the cutancous difeafes, which fo generally affed
the nations in the neighbourhood of the equator, are
the effect of an acrimony of the humours produced by
the great. heats of thefe climates, I have no doubt,
however, that the conftant action of the fun and wind
on the fkin of the natives, who go conftantly naked,
muft contribute greatly to generate difeafes of that
nature, and render them far more obftinate. It is 4
well known faét that they were formerly very common
in Europe, and did not abate their malignity or fre-
quency, till a tafte for cleanlinefs, and the ufe of linen
had taken place ofthe dirty unpolifhed habits of life
which prevailed immediately after the fall of the Ro.
man empire. )
Epidemic difeafes, fuch as the fmall pox and
mceafles, reign in America when carried there by Eu-
ropean (hips, but the natives are very fufceptible of
the infection, and the ravages of the fmall pox, in par-
ticular, are fo deftructive, that to them no calamity
can be more dreadful. This difeafe manifefts itfelf
by the fame fymptoms, and purfues the fame progrefs
in all its ftages as among Europeans. It is diftin-
guifhable alfo in the fame manner into the diftinét
or mild, and the confluent or malignant fort, but it
more generally affumes the latter character.
Syphilis, which, according to common tradition,
was unknown in Europe till the return of the flect of
Columbus, appears from the opinion of many well-
informed perfons whom I confulted at Monterey,
never to have been introduced among the natives of
California till after their communication with the Eu-
ropeans who fettled on that part of the new conti-
nent. Whatever may have been the origin of that
difeafe among the natives, it is certain that it has oc-
cafioned among them the fame ravages it has caufed
in Europe. Buboes, chancres, warts, gonorrhoea, &c.
are its ordinary fymptoms. x
The
ears certairt
erally affeét
cquator, are
produced by
e no doubt,
in and wind
intly naked,
afes of that
ite. Itis a
ery common
ynity or fre-
> ufe of linen
abits of life
1 of the Ro-
Il pox and
here by Eu-
ufceptible of
| pox, in par-
no calamity
inifefts itfelf
ame progrefs
It is diftin-
the diftinét
fort, but it
er.
on tradition,
of the flect of
many well-
Monterey,
e natives of
with the Eu-
new conti-
igin of that
at it has oc-
t has caufed
morrhoea, &c.
The
ON THE AMERICANS. 273
The means of cure in which the native Americans
place the greateft confidenwe, are the fand bath, which
they call sama/cal, and a decoction of fudorific plants
taken alternately. They aflured me this mode of
treatment almoft produced the fame effects,
The tamafcal is prepared by digging a trench in
the fand about a foot deep by two broad, and of a
length proportioned to the ftature of the patient.
They then make a fire throughout its whole extent,
and alfo on the fand which has been difplaced. When
thefc are heated, they extinguith the fire, lightly re-
moving the fand on the top that the heat may be im-
parted equally ; after which the patient undreffes,
lays himfelf in the trench, and is covered up to the
chin with the heated fand. In this fituation he un-
dergoes a moft profufe fweat, which decreafes regu-
larly with the gradual cooling of the fand. The pa-
tient then rifes and wafhes himfelf in the fea, or in a
neighbouring river, and the procefs is repeated after
the fame manner till a cure is effected. The plant
which they commonly ufe in the treatment of the
venereal difcafe, is called by the Spaniards governante.
The following are the characters of this A cp as far
as I have been able to defcribe them from dried fpe-
cimens,
Calix—Four ovate leaves of equal fize with the co-
rolla inferted under the fruit, deciduous,
Corolla—Polypetalous, four petals, fmall, entire,
oval, inferted into the receptacle.
Stamina—Kight, inferted into the receptacle, of
the fame height with the corolla; carnous filaments,
canuliculated on one fide, and convex on the other ;
ale villous, antheræ fimple.
Pifil—Germen oblong, villous, pentagonal, di-
vided into five compartments, inclofing an oblong
feed ; the down of the pericarpium is very apparent,
though very fine.
Stem.—I judged it to be a fhrub of a moderate
Von. II. ii" height ;
974 PHYSIOLOGICAL MEMOIR
height ; the ftock is angular, bufhy, knotted, and co.
vered with a clammy varnifh. ‘Fhe infertions of the
lateral branches are alternate, and very near to each
other. The leaves fmall, petiolated, bilobate, oppo.
fite, the upper end fmooth, and the under fide ner-
vous, though not very apparently : flowers: axillary,
fometimes terminal, pedunculated, fingle, and fome-
times double..
Independent of the maladies which the women
fhare in common with the men, they are fubjec to
feveral peculiar to their fex, particularly thofe which
attend on child-birth, hemorrhages from the uterus,
er lofs of blood, abortions, &c. It is remarkable,
however, that they fuffer very little inconvenience
during the time of geftation, and are almoft inva-
riably delivered with eafe. Difficult or unnatural
Jabours are very rare, but when they take place, both
the mother and the infant almoft always become their
victims. This can be occafioned only by a want of
correfpondence in the dimenfions of the pelvis in the
mother with the fize of the infant, which muft paf;
through it, or from the improper pofition of the lat-
ter when it prefents itfelf before the paflage.
In natural labours, the firft pains ordinarily take
place but a fhort time previous to the expulfion of the
mfant. -Thefe women, doubtlefs, are indebted for
this advantage to the extreme width of the pelvis, as
will appear from the table of proportions. |
As foon as the infant is born, the old women who
perfornr the office of mid-wives, tie the umbilical
eord, plunge the child into cold water, and cleanfe
it from the vifcid humour with which its body is co-
vered. . The moment the mother is delivered, fhe
goes to bathe in the fea, or a neighbouring river.
On coming out of the river, fhe is feated on a hot
fione, and covered with furs. In this fituation fhe
remains only till the fweats fhe experiences fubfide,
and the flone cools, to plunge herfelf again into cold
> ; 4 water,
~
otted, and co.
fertions of the
y near to each
ilobate, Oppo-
nder fide ner-
wers axillary,
le, and fomc-
h the women
are fubjcét to
y thofe which
m the uterus,
is, remarkable,
inconvenience
_almoft inva-
or unnatural
ke place, both
; become their
by a want of
e pelvis in the
ich muft pats
on of the lat-
lage.
rdinarily take
«pulfion of the
indebted for
the pelvis, as
1S.
d women who
the umbilical
r, and cleanfe
its body is co-
delivered, the
bouring river.
ated on a hot
‘fituation fhe
ences fubfide,
gain into cold
water,
ON THE AMERICANS. | 275
water, and fometimes repeats this procefs for feveral
fucceeding days.
Thefe immerfions in water, and this kind of ftove,
in general ufe among the Americans in almoft all
difeafes, are often attended with inconvenience; and
chiefly to women recently delivered. In ‘that cafe
they often occafion fuppreffion of the lochia, inflam-
mation of the genitals and of the urinary pafiage,
accompanied with fuppreffion of urine, or fchir-
rous breafts, which fometimes become cancerous.
About fix months ago a cafe of this kind happened
at the miffion of Moncerey to a woman of about 25
ycars of age, who died of an ulcerated cancer, which
had corroded one of the breafts and four ribs adja-
cent to the tumor.
Should any accident occur after this treatment,
the midwives confine their care to fomenting the
parts affected with a decoction of plants or feeds of
an emollient nature. The feed which they com-
monly ufe in thefe cafes, and in acute fevers, cither
as a draught, or a fomentation, refembles linfeed. It
has the fame fhape, colour, and glofs, yields in boil-
ing a fimilar mucilage, and is called by the Ameri-
cans paffelle.
The time of geftation is not always fo fortunate
as to reach the ordinary term of nine months, and
abortions are by no means rare. In that cafe the
women obferve the fame condué as if they had been
delivered at the appointed time, unlefs an hoemor-
rhage occurs, in which cafe they are kept in bed, and
the hypogaftrium and pudendum fomented cold. I
was not able to obtain an explanation of the method
ufed by the midwives to extract the placenta.
Neither are infants at the breaft exempt from all
the infirmities to which that early fiage of life is na-
turally liable, excepting rachitis, or rickets, of which
[did not fee a fingle inftance. Like Europeans,
however, they are fubjeét to the pains of dentition,
T 2 chaps,
276 PHYSIOLOGICAL MEMOIR
chaps, convulfions, hooping cough, worms, cholic,
diarrhoea, marafmus, frahifions; &c.
The time of fuckling is utile, Sometimes it
is very fhort, but mothers commonly retain their
children at the breaft for eightcen or twenty months,
Their manner of fwaddling their children confifts in
wrapping them in furs, having previoufly ftretched
out their arms and legs at full length, and fixed
them in that fituation by feveral bandages of leather,
They then place the infant in a picee of bark pro-
portioned to his fize, and of the form of a hollow tile,
to which he is faftencd by ftraps or bandages of lea-
ther. As to the brown fpots fore: navigators pre-
tend to have obferved on the backs of children, I
confefs that in this and many other particulars where
I endeavoured to verify their obfervations, my en-
quiries were fruitlefs. I remarked nothing in their
organization incompatible with the moft perfect na-
tural conformation.
Although the difeafes with which the natives of
California are afflicted are no lefs numerous than
various, their treatment of each different malady is
almoft invariably the fame. I have already faid this
treatment confifts in the ufe of a few plants, in cold
bathing, and in a kind of ftove bath. The applica-
tion of thefe remedies, however irrationally employ-
ed, is directed by a fort of phyficians, or rather jug-
glers, who obtain the confidence of their country-
men only by feigned infpirations and extravagant
geftures.
From their general practice of exciting fweats, it
may be thought that, like Van Helmont ,thefe jugglers
imagine that fecretion to be a favourite depuration
of nature, and that any method of promoting it is
fufficient to cure all difeafes. But were it poffible
to fuppofe, like him, that this doctrine with its prac-
tice is derived from a fuperior being, as their gym-
naftics feem to indicate, it is probable thefe jugglers
were
rms, cholic,
Sometimes it
retain their
enty months,
en confifts in
afly ftretched
h, and fixed
es of leather.
of bark pro-
‘a hollow tile,
idages of lea-
ivigators pre-
f children, I
iculars where
ions, my en-
thing in their
ft perfect na+
he natives of
merous than
nt malady is
eady faid this
lants, in cold
The applica-
ally employ-
pr rather jug-
heir country-
extravagant
ing fweats, it
thefe jugglers
e depuration
omoting it is
re it poffible
with its prac-
as their gym-
thefe jugglers
were
ON THE AMERICANS 277
were the firft favoured with the revelation, while
that phyfician was but their humble imitator. As to
the regimen, it is always fubordinate to the tafle and
appetite of the patient.
The external or chirurgical difeafes to which thefe
nations are fubject, confift of fractures, wounds, ul-
cers, foft tumours, hernia, and luxations.
Their treatment of wounds and ulcers differs not
from their ordinary treatment. In fimple cafes they
abandon their cure to nature. In thofe which are
ferious, they apply to the wound or ulcer a few
plants, either entire or pounded. Should the icho-
rous difcharge produced by the ulcers caufe much
pain, and inflame the parts, they bathe them with a
lotion made with plants, or emollient feeds, and if
a wound is attended with hemorrhage, they flaunch
it with the hair of animals, and make a gradual
compreffion, making ufe of pieces of leather, fup-
ported by ftraps, and thus produce the effect of our
bandages.
If this application be not fufficient to ftop the ef
fufion of blood, the patient generally dies of the ex-
hauftion which it occafions; but when the hoemor-
rhage is ftopped, they wait till the hair inferted in
the wound is thrown off by fuppuration, and then
proceed to complete the cure, as in fimple diforders.
The cicatrices they produce after a wound or other
injury of the fofter parts, are almoft always defec-
tive.
If the natives of California poifon their arrows like
fome tribes of America, the fubftance they employ
produces lefs fpeedy and lefs dangerous effects ; for
the Spaniards, who have refided among them many
years, have never yet found the wounds of thefe ar-
rows mortal.
They take no care of fimple tumours, but to fuch
as have an inflammatory appearance they make ufe
SW)
of
278 PHYSIOLOGICAL MEMOIR
of emollients applied either topically, or by way of
fomentation.
Tumours formed by a difplacing of the parts, fuch
as hernia, are very common with thefe nations, par.
ticularly among infants.
They appeared to me ignorant of the method of
returning the parts by the taxis, and of keeping
them in their place when reduced by bandages. |
reduced feveral tumours on children in prefence of
their parents, with the intention of making them
fully acquainted with the operation, and enabling
them.in future to cure thefe difeafes, or prevent the
confequences attending them: but their want of in-
telligence leads me to doubt the fuccefs of my ex-
ertions. In the art of reducing laxations, their
knowledge is equally confined. ‘They make feveral
extenfions of the diflocated limb, but fo ul! directed
as fcarcely ever to effect a reduction. In the itreat-
ment of fractures, however, their conduct appears
fomewhat more fkilful. They bring the ends of the
bones into contact, and keep them fixed by a ban-
dage, placing the limb in a cafe of the bark ofa
tree, which is made to enclofe it by ftraps of Icather,
and the patient lies at reft till the perfect union of
the parts.
The proportions of thefe nations will be more ea-
fily compared by means of the following table, com-
prifing the refult of thefe refearches, and indicating
the places and latitudes where I meafured them: it
will there be fcen that there is a great difference in
the conformation of thefe various nations, which the
climate, their fports, their manner of living, and even
their prejudices either produce or modify in a very
remarkable manner. |
Si ale
R
or by way of
the parts, fuch
> nations, par-
the method of
nd of kecping
bandages. I
in prefence of
making them
and enabling
or prevent the
leir want of in-
efs of my ex-
axations, their
y make feveral
fo u! directed
In the itreat-
nduét appears
the ends of the
ixed by a ban-
the bark ofa
raps of leather,
Il be more ea-
ng table, com-
and indicating
ured them: it
it difference in
bns, which the
ving, and even
odify in a very
Scale
rfeét union of
ON THE AMERICANS. 279
Scale of Proportions of both Sexes, among the Natives
of the Continent of America, together with the La-
titude of the Places where the Meafures were taken.
Names of the Places + - = LaConception Monterey B.desFrangais
Latitudes - + + + = 36° 41'S. 36°41'N. 58°38'N
Proportion of the Men. Common ft. in.lin ft. in.lin ft. in. Jin
ftature US NTSC TT 6
Largeft diameter of the head: 0 8 4090 049 5
Shorteft ditto 0 5 © 0 6 405 6
Length of the upper extremities 2 1 6 2 1 9 2 2 3
of the lower ditto 28060 2.9 0 210 §
~———- of the feet ° 9 4 010 0 O10 6
Breadth of the cheft OO 8 A: 9: ities.
- of the fhoulders 44 8:17 Qt Bg
Length of the fpine 110 0 111 0 20 4
Circumference of the pelvis 2° EVE DNS ATE 's
Preprrtion of the Women.
Longeft diameter of the head 0 8 o 0 8 § o $10
Shorteft ditto O 411 0 $ 3°92 6 §
Length of the upper extremities 2 0 7 2 1 0 2 1 6
—— -- lower ditto 262 260 2 6 8
of the feet 0 8 0 0 8 6 0 8 9
Breadth of the breaft Q 19 . 6. 0 10.09. 011.2
- of the fhoulders t 2-59 Vo VE 4e
Length-of the fpine F8 o 1 #8 61 8 5
Circumference of the pelvis 250 260 26 9
Diftance from one anterior and
fuperior {pine of the ilium to
the other 6° 3e 06 85" 0 8 ro
The above proportions were meafured in the fol-
lowing manner. Froin tke head of the humerus to
the extremity of the middle finger, for the upper ex-
tremities; from the head of the os femoris to the
heel, and thence to the end of the great toe for the
lower extremities; the breadth of the cheft from one
fuperior articulation of the humerus to the other.
The height of the vertebral column, or length of the
{pine, was taken from the firft cervical vertebra to the
08 fucrum ; the longeft diameter of the head from
the fuperior angle of the occiput to the fymphyfis of
the chins and the fhorteft diameter from one paric-
tal prominence to the other,
T 4 MEMOIR
MEMOIR ON
MEMOIR ON CERTAIN INSECTS,
By M. La Martinière.
THE infect, of which the form may be feen
through ‘its nidus, (fig. 1,) is found in a finall prif.
matic triangular cell, pointed at the two extremities,
of the confiftence and colour of a light and very
fragile ice. The Ree of the infect is green, inter-
mingled with fmall bluifh fpots, and a few of a gold
colour, and .is united by a ligament to the lower
part of its nidus. Its neck fupports a fimall blackith
head, compoted of three converging lamina, in form
of a hat, and enclofed between three fins, two of
which are large, and notched at the upper part, A;
‘and one fmall, in fhape of a femi-circle, B. When
‘Irritated, it inftantly withdraws all its fins and its
head into its nidus, falling to the bottom by its own
gravity. Figure 2, reprefents the pr‘fm, feen from
below, and fhewing in what manner it is notched to
afford a paflage for the infect to retire within it.
Figure 3, is a reprefentation of it in profile. The
motion performed by the two large fins, which are
of a cartilaginous fubftance, rather foft, may be
compared to that made by the two hands, when
joined horizontally, and then turned downwards,
‘thus forming alternately two inclined planes, and
one parallel with the horizon By means of this
motion, it fupports itfelf on the water, where it pro-
cures nourifhment, probably from the fat and oily
bodies that fwim on the furface of the fea. I caught
it near Nootka, on the north-weft coaft of America,
‘in calm weather.
The following infe&, (fig. 4 and 5;) is fhaped
very nearly like the glafs of a watch, indented in one
point of its circumference. Its body is of a cartilagi-
nous fubftance, of a dullith white, and its upper part
(fig. 4,) covered with finall oval {pots of the colour
of
= Hs
ner TU"
Up HA)
Stl
INSECTS.
TS,
CL WW A en me
nay be feen |
1 a finall prif-
o extremities,
ght and very
green, inter-
few of a gold
to the lower
fimall blackifh
nine, in form
‘fins, two of
pper part, A;
>, B. When
fins and its
m by its own
m, feen from
is notched to
re within it,
profile. The
s, which are
oft, may be
ands, when
downwards,
planes, and
eans of this
where it pro-
fat and oily
ea. I caught
t of America,
Qs
not GT ul
ne
DUR TARN
i) is fhaped
ented in onc
bf a cartilagi-
ts upper part
of the pice
0
Uy ys,’ rm g
a,
gory
S\N
CL)
LPS
>
Lub. lune 20.4798, by L Stockdale .
Janjfom 0772 n
/
CERTAIN INSECTS. 281
of wine lees. Figure 5, reprefents it as fcen from
below, where may be perceived three elevations in
form of cups, two near the probofcis of the infcét,
and a third, much larger, towards the indented part
of its body. This laft is divided by feven little
whitifh ribs, the center projeding a little. It is by
means of thefe cups that it fixes itfelf very ftrongly
on the back of various fifth, or marine animals, which
it probably effects by producing a vacuum, and not
by means of any glutinous and cohefive humour,
as might be fuppofed. Perhaps it is in the fame way
that the lepas or barnacle, and patella or limpet,
adherc fo tenacioufly to the rocks. Its probofcis, fitu-
ated between its two fmall fuperior cups, is fet with
points at the upper extremity, which are probably
mouths, by which this animal fucks the blood of the
fifh on which it faftens. Below may be fcen, through
its fubftance, feveral convolutions of inteftines, end-
ing in a fmall receptacle of nearly a fquare form.
Though this animal is without legs, it has a pro-
greflive motion, by means of its three protuberant
cups, which it fixes alternately. It is alfo enabled
to defcend to the bottom of the water, chough its
form appears to prevent it, and the following is the
inethod it takes. It rolls itfelf up as it were en pa-
pillote, retains that fiate by fixing its two fuperior
cups to the pofterior and upper part of its body, and
thus prefenting a fmaller furface to the water, de-
fcends by its own gravity. I found it adhering to a
fifh of the genus diodon, or fun-fifh, of Linnæus,
which we met with very frequently from Nootka to
Monterey, in California.
The fpecics of pennatulu*, (fig. 6,) appeared to
pofiefs characters which have not yet been noticed,
and therefore I have given a figure of it. The
body is of a cartilaginous fubftance and cylindric
* Tt ig rather a Lernæa.
form ;
282 MEMOIR ON
form ; its head, which is armed with two fmall horns
of the fame fubftance, is of a fpherical figure, flat.
tened at the anterior extremity. This part is covered
with papilla, part of which may be feen. They are
fo many mouths, by which the animal drinks the
blood of fifh, burying itfelf as far as poffible in their
flefh. The extremity of its body, which always re.
mains out of the fifh, appears like the feathers of a
quill. Thefe feathers are of the fame fubftance
with the body, and ferve, I am well convinced, as
excretory ducts ; on lightly prefling the animal, the
greater part of thefe cartilaginous feathers ejected a
very limpid liquor in fimall threads, At the bafe of
thefe feathers, and under the body, are placed two
large cartilaginous filaments, of which I could not
poffibly difcover the ufe. They are not always fur-
nifhed with thefe, for I have feen fome of thefe ani-
mals without them.
The circulation of the blood is eafily perceivable,
and a minute is fufficicnt for a complete revolution,
I have endeavoured to reprefent its undulations, by
a few ftrokes of the pencil, which may be fecn in the
length of the animated cylinder. Probably this ani-
mal can introduce itfelf into the bodies of fith only
when it is very young; when once inclofed, having
abundance of food, its head encreafes confiderably,
and the two horns with which it is furnifhed, necet-
farily form an obfiacle to its efeape. An admirable
provifion of nature, fince fhe has defigned it to ob-
tain nourifhment at the expence of another. I found
it buried more than an inch and half deep in the
body of a diodon, taken in the vicinity of Nootka.
Figure 7, reprefents an infect of a {pecics very
nearly refembling the oni/cus ; letter C is the upper
view of it, and ‘I that of the under fide.
Its body is crufiaceous, and of a dirty white co-
Jour, having round reddifh fpots on the anterior part
of its corflet, two others much larger in form ofa
creicent,
vo fmall horns
| figure, flat.
art 18 covered
n, They are
al drinks the
ffible in their
ch always re-
feathers of a
me fubftance
Sonvinced, as
> animal, the
hers ejected a
t the bafe of
> placed two
1 I could not
ot always fur-
of thefe ani-
- perceivable,
e revolution.
lulations, by
e fecn in the
ably this ani-
; of fith only
ofed, having
confidcrably,
ifhed, necet-
An admirable
ned it to ob-
ner. I found
deep in the
f Nootka.
fpecics very
is the upper
y white co-
anterior part
n form ofa
creicent,
CERTAIN INSECTS. 283
crefcent, on its elytra, or upper wings, and its /cz.
tellum is of the faune colour. The under part of the
breaft is furnifhed with four pair of legs. The firtt
and third pair terminate in a very fharp fang; the
fecond, from their form, are apparently employed in
fwimming ; and the fourth, which are very fmall,
confift of two membranous threads. Some laminz
alfo, of a membranous nature, and much indented,
may alfo ferve the purpofe of legs; the two inferior
are the largeft. Its belly is filled with a bundle of
inteftines, of a vermicular form, the fize of a hair;
and the mouth, placed between the firft and fecond
pair of legs, 1eprefents a fmall trumpet, fituated be-
tween the two lips, joined at the upper part only,
I found this infect adhering to the gills of a diodon,
which was alfo fuffering from the two infects men-
tioned TS
Figure 8, reprefents an infect of the genus oni/cus,
according to Linnæus, and its body has very nearly
the form, confiftence, and colour of a woodloufe,
except that it is not like the latter divided by feg-
ments. It is provided with a double tail, three times
the length of its body, from the infertion of w hich
arife two legs, which the animal employs principally
for fwimming, when lying on its back. The infect
feen from below, letter H, prefents fix pair of legs,
the two firft of which terminate in very fharp and
{trong points, the third ferves it for fwimming and
balancing its body in concert with thofe inferted into
the root of the tail, and the fourth pair, which are
the largeft, is furnifhed with two very fharp points,
which it fixes with all its force into the body of
whatever animal it faftens on. The two laft are a
{pecies of membrane, in various divifions. Between
the two firft pair of legs is its probofcis, being of a
foft confiftence, and half a line in length. At the
bafe of the third pair are two points, of the fubftance
of horn, very hard, and adhering fi: rmaly 5 the two
lower horns, below the large pair of legs, are alfa
very
284 MEMOIR ON
very ftrongly fixed to its body. I imagine it is by
the aid of thefe kind of darts that it pierces the bodies
of the fifth upon which it is found, and then chang-
ing its place, introduccs its probofcis into the hole
they have made. Placed in a veflel, it defcends to
the bottom, and returns to the furface with the
greateft facility, which it performs by prefenting the
edge of its body, and defcribing feveral curves. Its
two large tails are detached from it very cafily with.
out the animal appearing to fuffer pain. I found
this infect in great numbers, adhering to the body
of the fame diodon *.
Figure 9, reprefents a fpecies of leech, of the
natural fize. It is of a whitifh colour, and compofed
of feveral rings, fimilar to thofe of the tenia. The
upper part of the head is armed with four papilla,
fet with points, which are fo many inftruments for
procuring nourifhment. Under each papilla, on
either fide, is a fmall pouch, elongated in the form
of acup. Figure 10, is a front view of it, where its
four papillae may be diftinguifhed. I found this
leech buricd in the exterior fubftance of a fhark's
liver, more than half an inch within it. Whence it
came, Iam perfectly ignorant -f.
Figure 11, reprefents the onifcus phyfodes, of Lin-
næus, which he has very well deferibed, and of which
¥ have given a drawing, merely becaufe I believe
none has hitherto exifted. It has nine veficles on
each fide, placed like tiles, on the inferior furface of
a round ta, P.
I found this {pecies of oniffns in the gills of a new
{pecies of the pleuronectes of Linnzeas ¢, very abun-
* This infe& appears rather to be a monoculus than an ani/cus, the
shell being of one piece.
+ This animal agrees in its inftrumenta cibaria, or feeders,
with that to which Gog attributes the caufe of fcurf in fwine. Both
fpecies are nearly allied to the genus dirudo, or leech, of which the
charaéters given by Linnaeus require correction.
+ To this genus belong the holibut, plaice, flounder, dab, fole,
and turbot.—-Tranflater's ucts
dant
dan
gine it is by
ces the bodies
| then chang-
into the hole
t defcends to
ace with the
refenting the
al curves. Its
y cafily with.
ain. I found
to the body
leech, of the
and compofed
tenia. The
four papille,
ftruments for
1 papilla, on
l'in the form
fit, where its
I found this
of a thark’s
. Whence it
odes, of Lin-
and of which
ufe 1 believe
ne veficles on
rior furface of
gills of a new
, very abun-
an an oni/cus, the
aria, or feeders,
rfinfwine. Both
ech, of which the
under, dab, fole,
dant
CENTAIN INSECTS. 285
dant at Monterey, in California. Letter M is its
upper fide, and letter N the under fide, where the
14 feet are vifible.
Of all the infects I have delincated, the following
(figure 12) is the moft fimple, and that of which the
fudy has afforded me the greateft pleafure. They
are mere oval bodies, perfcétly refembling a bubble
of foap, as may be feen in my drawing, where they
are arranged in cluficrs of 3, 5, 6 and 9, and fome
alone and wandering. Thefe collections of globules
placed in a glafs of fea water, rapidly defcribed a cir-
cle round the glafs by a common motion, in which
cach veficle participated with a fimple compreflion
of the fides of its body; an cffeét probably, of the
reaction of the air with which they were filled. It is,
however, inconccivable how thefe animals, which are
perfectly diftinét from each other, fince they may be
feparated as I have experienced, without any apparent
derangement of their cconomy, can communicate
their intentions fo exactly, and concur together in one
common motion. From thefe confiderations, added
to the form of the animal, I recalled to mind with
pleafure and fatisfaélion the fyflem of M. Buffon,
and almoft wifhed to perfuade myfelf, I was about to
witnefs the moft wonderful phenomenon of nature,
fuppofing that thefe animated particles, then occupied
in encreafing or diminifhing their numbers, or in
making farther revolutions in my glafs, would fpeed-
ily aflume the forin of a new animal, of which they
were the living materials. My impatience led me to
feparate two from the moft numerous clufter, imagin-
ing this number would prove moft favourable to a
metamorphofis, but I did not fucceed any better by
this means, The following is the manner in which
thefe two molecules proceeded, when feparated for
my fecond experiment. I only fpeak of thefe two,
becaufe I obferved them with more attention than
the others. Imagine to yourfelf two wreftlers, equal-
ly
<
286 MEMOIR ON
ly ftrong and fkilful, each equally ambitious of con.
queft ; for fuch were the two molecules which I had
juft feparated from the reft. Their firft mecting is
eviddntly a combat, in which the conteft is which
fhall be moft fuccefsful in feizing its companion, and
flying to fulfil the duty of its nature. They attack
each other on all fides ; fometimes one plunges be:
low and the other afcends to the top of the water;
this deftrives a circle that remains in the centre,
watching the moft favourable moment. The differ-
ent artifices of each are forefeen and parried by the
other. Their courage, however, encreafing, their
motions become fo rapid, that it is impoffible to avoid
confounding the one with the other. Though my
defign was particularly to obferve the conqueror, at
length fatigued with watching them, I left them both
in the fury of the combat. On returning to examine
them again, I found them urited together as ufual,
and fwimming about in my glafs by a common move-
ment in the moft amicable manner. The pleafure
thefe molecules afforded me was fo great, that I fhall
often recall them with fatisfaction to my recollection.
Natural -hiftory, often a very dry fiudy, would not
Ithink have fo many attractions for thofe who de-
vote themfelves to it, were they not fometimes for-
tunate in meeting with objects like thefe, to delight
their imagination.
The fpecics of Medufa, (if it does not conftitute
a new genus,) which is reprefented in two different
attitudes, figures 13 and 14, has nearly the figure of
a cornemufe or bagpipe, and is nothing elfe than a ve-
ficle perfectly white and tranfparent, furnifhed with
feveral blue tantacula, yellowifh at their extremity.
Its large tail which is alfo blue, appears to be formed
of an affemblage of {mall glandular kernels, flattened
and united together throughout their length, by e
gelatinous membrane. The upper part of this veficle
has a kind of feam, compofed of large, middling, and
finall
and
and
not
ftitc
whic
fent:
T
of tl
of tl
than
their
ing |
attac
whic
throt
to di
itious of cor.
; which I had
‘ft mecting is
teft is which
mpanion, and
They attack
> plunges be:
of the water;
1 the centre,
- The differ-
arricd by the
reafing, their
ffible to avoid
Though my
conqueror, at
eft them both
1 to examine
ther as ufual,
yMmMOoN move-
The pleafure
t, that I fhall
r recollection.
y, would not
hofe who de-
bmetimes for-
fe, to delight
ot confiitute
two different
the figure of
fe than a ve-
wnifhed with
ir extremity.
to be formed
els, flattened
length, by @
f this veficle
hiddling, and
finall
CERTAIN INSECTS. 187
fall points, arranged alternately. To the longer part
of the cornemufe, which may be confidered as its head,
jsadded an infulated tentaculum, itsexternal is furniih-
ed with 25 or 26 tahtacula, much fmaller than thofe
feen at the infertion of its large tail, the number of
which fometimes amounts to 30. By means of thefe
lat, of which it is able to encreafe the diameter at
will, by inflating them with a part of the air con-
tained in the animal, it faftened itfelf to the fide
of the veffel, fo that the extremity of fome of
thefe tentacula, by their diftention, might occu-
py a furface of two or three lines. The moft flexible
part of the cornemu/e is its clongated divifion or head,
and by means of that it performs various motions,
and affumes different pofitions : but this change can-
not be produced without obliterating as it were, the
ftitches of the future on the upper part of the body,
which fometimes entirely difappear, and it then repre-
fents only a wrinkled line.
The round part feen at P, is fituated in the midft
of the large tentacula, fixed very firmly to the body
of the cornemufe, near its tail, and is nothing more
than a collection of fmall gelatinous globules ; from
their center rife other globules fomewhat larger, hav-
ing a fmall peduncle, near the middle of which, are
attached a little bluifh body in fhape of an S, of
which I have given two reprefentations as viewed
through a lens. See R, but I am abfolutely unable
to difcover their ule.
I found this cornemeufe on the 18th of Novem-
ber, 1786, in 20° N. lat. and 179° E. long. from
Paris ; and I met with it again, in very great abun-
dance, at our landing place on the Baihee or Bachi
Ilands, where I alfo found the following animal :
This animal (fig. 15), which is truly of a fingular
form, nearly refembles a lizard. Its body, which is
of a glutinous fubftance, but rather firm, prefents
two brilliant colours; deep blue and the vivid white,
like
288 ON THE INHABITANTS OF
like filver.' Its head is furnifhed with two fmall ge.
Jatinous horns on each fide ; the two pofterior ones
fituated more internally than the two anterior, Its
body is provided with four feet, which fpread like a
fan, and fome appendages near the infertion of its
tail. It terminates like that of a lizard. The upper
part. of its back is divided throughout its whole
length by a blue ftripe, the reft of the body appear.
ing of a very fine filver colour, as well as the cen-
ter of its feet and its internal part. This animal,
poffeffing little vivacity, remains at reft on the water,
as it appears in the drawing, but when irritated b
the touch, it withdraws its head a little into its
body, which it moves backward, and bending in
the middle of its reins, turns on its back. - This po-
fition was its conftant defence, when I attempted to
irritate it. When defirous of regaining its former
attitude, it employs nearly the fame means, and
throwing its head forward, and bending the center
of its body, returns to its former pofture, which is
doubtlefs the moft natural to it. Figure 16 is a re-
prefentation of it reverfed.
Y caught it during a gentle fea, at the landing
place on the Bachi Mand.
ET) © 03 Le © Gg —
BISSERTATION ON THE INHABITANTS OF THE ISLAND
OF TCHOKA AND THE EASTERN TARTARS.
By M. Rollin, Surgeon-Major of the Bouffole Frigate.
On the 12th of July, 1787, we anchored in Bar
de. Langle, fituated in the weftern part of the Ifland
of Tchoka, or Segalien.
The next day we landed, and were no fooner on
fhore than the inhabitants came to meet us, and
were eager to fhew us marks of kindnefs, from which
we formed a good opinion of their intentions. 7
| This
two fmall ge-
pofterior ones
anterior. Its
fpread like a
fertion of its
The upper
ut its whole
body appear-
| as the cen-
This animal,
on the water,
n irritated b
little into its
4 bending in
k. . This po-
attempted to
1g its former
; means, and
g the center
ure, which is
re 16 is a re-
the landing
F THE ISLAND
ARTARS.
uffole Frigate.
hored in Baie
of the Ifland
no fooncr on
meet us, and
fs, from which
ntions.
This
THÉ ISLAND OF TCHOKA, ETC. 289
‘This nation’ ‘is very intelligent, refpect property,
entertain tio’ miftruft, and are: very communicative
with firangers. “They are of a middling ftature,
fquat, ftrongly built, a ‘little embonpoint, and their
figure and mufcles Arongly marked. The ftature
moft common atnong thems five feet, and the talleft
five feet four inches, though of the latter we faw
very few inftances. ‘All of them have large heads,
and their faces aré broad, and rotinder than thofe of
Europeans: Their countenance is animated and very
agreeable, though the affemblage of the parts which
compôfe the face has not, in general, that regularity
and grace which we admire. “Almoit all have large
checks, a fhort nofe, rounded ‘at the ‘end, and the
noftrils very thick, fharp eyes, of a’ middling fize
and well formed; in fome inftances blue, but ge:
nerally black ; thick eye-brows, a mouth of a mid-
ding fize, a ftrong voice, and thick ‘lips, of a dark
hue. Some individuals were obferved to have the
upper lip te*:noed in blue, and thefe parts, as well as
the eyes, «c -:pable of expreffing every Kind of
fentiment.. !‘::y have fine teeth, «well fet, and
of the ufual number; a round chin, with very lit-
tle prominence ; and fmall ears, which they pierce,
FN in them ornaments of: glafs, or rings of
filver. ,
~The women ‘are finaller than the men, and have
a rounder and more delicate figure, though there-is
little difference in their features. Their upper lip
is completely tattooed’ in blue, and they wear theit
hair of its full length: : Their clothing is in no re-
{pect different from that of the men, and in both
fexes the colour of the fkin is tawny ; and that of
their nails, which they fuffer to grow long; of a
darker fhade than in Europeans. ‘Thefe iflanders are
very full bearded and hairy... Their beard being very
long and brifily, gives to the old men a grave ‘and ve-
nerable appearance, and the young appeared. to look
~ Von. IT. U up
290 ON THE INHABITANTS. OF
up to them with great attention and refpect. Their
hair is black, fmooth, and moderately ftrong, though
in fome it is chefnut. They all wear it round, about
fix inches long behind, and cut in a brush on the
forehead and temples. ;
Their drefs confifts of a caflock, or kind of bed-
gown, which crofles before, where it is faftened with
{mall buttons, ftrings, and a girdle above the hips,
This caflock is made of fkin, or a kind of quilted
nankeen, made with the bark of the willow; it
generally defcends as far as the calf of the leg, and
fometimes lower, which makes them, for the moft
part, difpenfe with the ufe of drawers. Some wear
bufkins of feal’s fkin, the feet of which nearly re-
femble :thofe. of the Chinefe, both in fafhion and
workmanfhip ; but the majority have both the head
and foot naked ; and only a fmall number had their
heads bound with a bandean.of bear fkin, which |ferved
rather for ornament than protection againft the cold
or the rays of the fun.
Like the inferior caft of the Chinefe, they all
wear a gwdle, to which they fufpend their knife, a
boar’s tufk, and feveral little pouches, in whieh they
put their flint, ficel, their pipe, and the box con-
re their tobacco, the ufe of which is very ge.
ncral. |
Their huts afford them fhelter from the rain and
wind, but are not fufficiently large, eonfidering the
number of inhabitants. The roof forms two inclined
planes, about ten or twelve feet high :at their point
of junction, three or four feet on the fides, and four-
teen or fifteen broad by eighteen long. ‘Thefe ca-
bins are conftructed of rafters, firmly connected to-
gether, and flanked with the bark of trees and dried
plants, difpofed in the fame manner as the ftraw
thatch of the cottages of our peafants.
We remarked within thefe houfes a fquare heap
of earth, elevated about fix inches above the ground,
and
nect. Their
rong, though,
round, about
brufh on the
ind of bed-
faftened with
we the hips,
d of quilted
; willow; it
the leg, and
for the moft
Some wear
ch nearly re-
fafhion and
th the head
ber had their
which \ferved
inft the cold
fe, they all
heir knife, a
a whieh they
he box con-
| is very ge-
the rain and
nfidering the
two inclined
t their point
es, and four-
Thefe ca-
mnected to-
2es and dried
s the firaw
fquare heap
the ground,
and
THE ISLAND OF TCHOKA, ETC. 201
and fupported by fmall thick planks on the fides.
This is their fire-place. At the fides and at the end
of the’ apartment we {aw treflels, twelve or fifteen
jnches high, on which their mats are extended to
fleep jon.
The utenfils they employ in preparing and eating
their food, confift of iron cauldrons, porringers, or
veflels of wood, and.of birch-bark, of different fhapes
and various workmanfhip, and they eat with fmall
fticks, like the Chinefe. The hours of repaft, in
each family, are at noon, and towards the clofe of
the day.
In the fouthern part of the ifland their habita-
tions are conftructed with rather more care, are bet-
ter decorated, and the greater part floored. We
faw among them fome veflels of Japan porcelain,
which, as they appeared to fet great valuc on them,
I believe they are procured with difficulty, and at
vonfiderable expence. They employ no cultivation,
and live on fith fmoked, and dried in the air, and a
fall quantity of game, produced by the chace.
Each family has its canoe and its implements for
fifhing and hunting. Their arms are the bow, the
javelin, and a fort of {pontoon or half pike, which
they ufe chiefly in hunting the bear. : By the fide of
their huts.are {tore-houfes, in which, during the fum-
mer, they collect and prepare their provifion for the
winter, This confifts of dried fifh, a confiderable
quantity of garlick and wild celery, angelica, a bul-
bous root which they call apé, known under the
name of the yellow lily of Kamtfchatka, and the oil of
fifth, which they preferve in the ftomachs of the larger
animals, Thefe ftore-houfes are built of planks, well
united, raifed above the ground, and fupported by
feveral ftakes of about four feet high.
Dogs are the only domeftic animals we faw among
the inhabitants of ‘l'choka. They are of middle fize,
U2 have
202 “ON THE INHABITANTS OF
have rather long hair, ftraight cars; long ‘muzzle, a
ftrong cry, and aré not in the leaft favage.
Of all the uncivilized nations we have vifited, thefe
iflanders, if they may be clafled among that number,
are the only people among whom we obierved any
‘weavers’ looms. Thefe Iooms were complete, yet
‘fmall enough to be portable. |
They ufe a diftaff to fpin the hair of animals, the
bark of the willow and the great nettle, of which they
form their fiuffs. !
This nation are of a very mild and unfufpicious
character, and appear to have fome commercial deal:
ings with the Chinefe through the medium of the
Mantchou Tartars, with the Ruffians by the nortli
part of their ifland, and with the Japanefe by thc
fouth ; but the articles of their traffick are of little im-
portance, confifling only of a few furs and fome
whale oil. ‘Their whale fifhery is confined to the
fouthern part of the ifland, and the manner in which
‘they extract the oil is far from ceconomical. They
draw the whale upon the beech, which lies on a de-
clivity, and leaving it to putrefy, the oil thus feparat-
ed of itfelf is received in a kind of tub placed at the
fieepeft part of thé ground, to which it is directed in
its courfe by little furrows. |
The ifland of Tchcka, fo denominated by its in-
‘habitants, but called by the Japanefe Oku-Jeffo, and
by the Ruffians, who are only acquainted with its
northern part, the ifland of Segalien, extends in its
longeft diamcter over all the fpace comprifed between
the 46th and 50th parallel. |
It is very woody and very high in the middle, but
flat towards its extremities, where it appears to of-
fer a foil favourable to agriculture. Vegetation is
there extremely vigorous, and its forefls flocked with
willows, oaks, and birch. ‘The fea that wafhes its
fhores is extremely well fupplied with fifh, as are its
rivers and ftreams.
The
r muzzle, à
e.
ifited, thefe
at number,
bierved any
mplete, yet
nimals, the
which they
nfufpicious
nercial deal-
lium of the
y the north
nefe by the
> of little im-
s and fome
fined to the
er in which
ical, They
lies on a de-
thus feparat-
laced at the
s direéted in
1 by its in-
u-Jeffo, and
ted with its
tends in its
ifed between
middle, but
ears to of-
egetation is
tocked with
t wathes its
1, as are its
The
THE ISLAND OF TCHOKA, ETC. 203
The feafon when: we landed on this ifland was ex-
tremely foggy, but fufficiently temperate, and all the
inhabitants appeared to enjoy a: robuft and healthy
complexion, which they retain to a ver fl advanced
age; nor did I fee among them any defeétive con-
formation, or any trace of contagious eruptions, or any
ether difeafe.
After having communicated feveral times with the
inhabitants of the ifland of Tchoka, which is feparat-
ed from the coaft of Tartary by a ftrait we fuppofed
to ftretch from the fea of Japan to that of Okotfk,
we continued to fhape our courfe to the nor thward.
But the depth of water in the channe’ having gradu-
ally and uniforinly fhoaled throughout its width to fix
fathoms water, M. de la Péroufe, judged proper, for
the fafety of the (bips, to run back to the fouthward,
confidering that the impoffibility of arriving at Kamt-
fchatka, by failing out to the northward, as almoft
demonfirated. But the continuance of the fogs and
fouth winds, which prevailed ulmoft inceflantly ‘during
four months we had kept the fea, rendered our fitua-
tion very critical, and made that attempt as long and
tedious as it was painful and difficult.
The wood and water we had taken in at Manilla
being cenfuimed, our Commodore determined to pro-
cure a frefh fupply of thefe articles before he attempt-
ed any thing farther.
On the 27th of July 1787, the weather clearing
up, we were enabled to reconnoitre a vaft bay, in
which we caft anchor. It offered us not only a fafe
anchorage againft bad weather, but every means of
pr oviding 1e neceflary articles we wanted for conti-
dumg our voyage. ‘This bay is fituated on the coaft
of Tartary, in 519 29% N. lat, and 139° 41” longi-
tude, and was named Baie de Caffries, or Catirics
Bay.
The country is very mountainous, and fo much
covered with wood, that the whcle coalt appears but
Us” . as
294 ON THE INHABITANTS OF
as one foreft, and the vegetation is very ftrong and
flourifhing. 3
The inhabitants, the only people we met with on
this coaft from Corea, were fettled at the head of this
bay, towards the mouth of a fmall river well fupplied
with fifh.
This people are gentle, affable, ‘and, like thofe of
the ifland of Tchoka, are not miftruftful of ftrangers.
They pay the moft fcrupulous refpect to property,
and fhew little curiofity or defire even for things
which to them might be of the greateft utility.
In falutation they bend the body forward, and when
they defire to fhew extraordinary marks of refpett,
fall upon their knecs, and incline their head fo as
nearly to touch the ground with thcir forehead.
The exterior charaéteriftics of this people are irre-
gular, and offer but little analogy to thofe of their
neighbours of Tchoka, who are feparated from them
by a ftrait at this part only ten or twelve leagues wide.
Thefe Tartars are of a lower ftature, weaker body,
and their countenance much lefs agreeable or regu-
lar; their colour is not fo dark, and their fkin is to-
Icrably white in thofe parts which are conftantly co-
vered. Their hair is not fo thick, and they have on-
ly alittle beard on the chin and upper lip, while the
inhabitants of Tchoka, as I have faid before, are
fquare made, their mufcles ftrongly marked, and their
bodies furnifhed with more hair and beard than Eu-
ropeans. Thefe differences in the natural conforma-
tion of thefe nations feem to prove them ‘of a diffe-
rent race, though they live undcr the fame climate,
and their cuftoms and mode of living are the fame,
or very nearly fo.
The women are ugly, their countenances not hav-
ing that character of fweetnefs by which they are
commonly diftinguifhed from men. Their faces. are
flat, their eyes round and fmall, their cheeks large
and high, their head large, their throat firm. and to-
lerably
firong and
met with on
head of this
ell fupplied
like thofe of
of ftrangers,
to property,
n for things
tility.
rd, and when
s of refpert,
head {0 as
brehead.
pple are irre-
hofe of their
d from them
leagues wide.
weaker body,
ble or regu-
r fKin is to-
nftantly co-
hey have on-
p, while the
before, are
ed, and their
rd than Eu-
‘al conforma-
m ‘of a diffe-
ame climate,
ire the fame,
ices not hav-
ch they are
eir faces are
cheeks large
firm. and to-
lerably
THE ISLAND OF TCHOKA, &c. 205
derably well turned, and the extremities of the body
fmall but in: fine proportion.
The common height of the men is from four feet*
nine to ten inches. Their head is very large, with
refpcét to thcir bodies, their face flat and almoft
fquare, their forchead finall, round, and a little de-
pteffed from front to back ; their eyebrows indiftinétly
marked black or chefnut like their hair; their eyes
fmall, and even with their head; their cye-lids fo ill
divided that the corners are ftretched when opened ;
their nofe fhort and hardly perceptible at the root, fo
little is it defined at that part, and their cheeks are
coarfe and wide. Their mouth large, and their lips ©
thick, and of a dull red; their teeth fmall and re-
gular, but very liable to decay; their chin pro-
jects but little; the branches of their lower jaw are
rather narrow: their extremitics fmall, and the muf-
cles but faintly marked. ‘The irregular outline of
every part of the body excludes all grace of form and
delicacy of feature, and they are the moft puny, ugly
race of men I have fcen in either hemifphere.
Though thefe Tartars, as well as the inhabitants
of Tchoka, have attained a confiderable degree of
civilization and politenefs, yet they have no agricul-
ture, and live in extreme fithinefs. They fupport
themfelves chiefly during the fuminer ‘on frefh fith,
and in winter on fith either fmoked or dried in the
air on horfes nearly refembling thefe of our Jaun-
dreffes. Of thefe fith they firft cut off the head,
then gut them, take out the bones, and fufpend them
on the horfe. When dry they col'ect them in heaps,
and preferve them in ftorc-houfes, like thofe in the
ifland of Tchoka.
* The Paris foot, ufed in all the meafures throughout this work,
is equal to 1 0664 of the Englifh foot, or contains 12.783 En-
lifh inches, fomewhat lefs than 12 inches, and eight tenths. ‘The
ture of the people here defcribed is therefore about five feet, one
or two inches Englifh meafure.
UA They
296 ON THE INHABITANTS-OP
They catch fith with the hook, or the net, or {pear
them with a kind of fpontoon or fiick,, fhod with
iron. | |
They make regularly two mcals in, common, one
about the middle of the day, and, the other towards
funfet: their utcnfils and manner of preparing their
food are the fame with thofe of the inhabitants. of
Tchoka, and they procure thefe articles, with feveral
others, from the Mantchou Tartars, or Japan.
We were particularly aftonifhed at the avidity
with which they ate the fkin and cartilaginous. part
of frefh fith entirely raw, efpecially the muzzle and
parts adjoining the gills; thefe with train oil. they
efteem a great delicacy, and prefer to every other fcod,
Both men and women are drefled in a frock refem-
bling that of our carters, or a kind of dreffing gown
defcending to the calf of the leg, and fattened before
with copper buttons. This garment differs not from
that of the inhabitants of Tchoka, and is made of
fifh-fkin, or fometimes of nankeen for fummer, and
for the winter, of the fkin of land animals. -The
women ornament the lower part of this kind of robe
with fmall plates of copper, ranged in fymmetrical
order. All wear alike a fort of drawers or breeches
like that of the Chinefe, fimall bufkins fimilar to
thofe of the inhabitants of Tehoka, a ring of horn or
metal on the thumb, and trinkets hanging at the ears
and noftrils,
I did not obferve among them any chiefs except
thofe belonging to each family. The only domettic
animals they bring up are dogs, of the fame fpecies
as thofe of Tchoka, which they ufe likewife in winter
for drawing their fledges.
The cufiom of offcring their wives to firangcrs,
which exifts among fome inhabitants of the globe, is
not adopted by this nation, and the men appear to
hold them in the greateft refpect. The occupation
of the women is apparently confined ta domeftie con-
cerns,
net, or fpcar
fhod with
mmon, one
her towards
paring their
habitants of
with feveral
apan.
the avidity
ginous part
muzzle and
ain oil. they
y other fcod.
frock refem-
effing gown
tened before
ers not from
is made of
ummer, and
imals. : The
kind of robe
fymmetrical
or breeches
fimilar to
be of horn or
g at the ears
hiefs except
nly domettic
fame {pecies
fe in winter
to firangcrs,
he globe, is
Pn appear to
occupation
bimetiie con-
cerns,
THE ISLAND OF TCHOKA, &c, 207
cerns, and the education of their children, and pre-
aration of their. food,, conftitute the principal ob-
jects of their attention,
The umbilical cord is tied as with us at the mo-,
ment of the infant’s birth, who undergoes a kind of
fvaddling, fimilar to that ufed by the Americans, At
the times of repote the women place them in a baf-
ket, or cradle, made of wood or the bark of birch,
The feverity of the climate in which thefe Tartars
live obliges them to have different houfes for their
winter and fummer refidence, the form and internal
diftribution of which are the fame as. thofe I have
defcribed in my account of Tchoka: their winter,
houfes have no other peculiarity than that of being
funk into the earth about four feet, and having a fort
of porch or corridor adjoming the entrance. Not-
withftanding their hard and fevere manner of living,
thefe Tartars appeared to enjoy pretty good health
in their youth, though as they advance in age they
become fubject to infitmmations of the tunica con-
junctiva, which are very common among them, and
to blindnefs. The frequent occurrence of thefe in-
firmities is, probably, attributable to general caufes ;
fuch as, in my opinion, the glare of the fnow, which
covers the furface of the land for more than half
the year, and the continual irritation of the organs
of vifion produced by the finoke, which conftantly
fills their cabins’ where they are mofily confined in
winter to avoid the cold, and in fumuer to efcape
from the mo/gujtoes, which in thefe latitudes are ex-
tremely numerous,
Cutaneous diforders are very rare among thefe
people, notwithftanding they live in the extreme of
uncleanlinefs, I faw only two or three flight cafes
of herpetic er uptions À and one infant about fix years
of age, who had a feald head, but I did not remutk
any cefeét of conformation, or any trace cither of the
finall-pox or fyphilis. |
The
208 TABLE OF PROPORTIONS, &c.
The occupations of both fexes, their implements
of fifhing and hunting, and their canoes, have no
remarkable difference from thofe of the inhabitants
of Tchoka; but their natural conftitution mutt ren.
der them incapable of fupporting equal fatigue with
the latter, who are much more robutt.
The pcople appear to have the greateft veneration
for the dead, and employ all their ingenuity to do
honour to their fepulture. They are interred in their
ufual habiliments, and with the arms and implements
they ufed in their life time. The body is depofited
in a coffin, made of planks, in the fame form as
ours, the extremities of which are ornamented with
picces of filk, either plain or embroidered in gold or
filver. This coffin is afterwards enclofed in a tomb,
conftructed of planks or boards, elevated about four
feet from the ground. )
Comparative Table of the Proportions of the Inhabi-
tants of the Lland of Tchoka, and the Tartars of
Caftries Bay, taken in the fume manner as the com-
parative Proportions of the Americans, before fpe-
cificd,
Ifland of | Tartars of
Tchoka. |Caftries Bay.
Fr
Le À
bom
3
(su
coe:
Ft. In.
Common ftature of the men -
Circumference of the head -
Its longeft diameter - -
Shorteft ditto + ‘ .
Length of the upper extremitics —-
the lower ditto - °
the feet “ . ë
Circumference of ditto d
—_
& ©
Itswidth - - -
That of the fhoulders -
Circumference of the pelvis +
Height ofthe vertebral column -
The only meafure 1 could obtain o
the women, is the circumference
of the pelvis - - =. -{0
RKeDde—=cOnnooeu
— Où Omid © 00 æ Gr
COCeB CRO ODO 0 œ À © =
=pe SOoonnocens
O Go & = © © © = Ur to
cooeccooced @&
ss
ES
to
—
[=]
Of M.
neers,
pedi i
THE
hemifph
Brafil, c
the laft
to facili
Dutch }
turn of |
was defi
fight of
tuguefe
bay, in
M. d
dered m
regardi
comma
land, u
approac]
land, h
ment at
one-thir
which fe
ifland.
ward, b
whole i
ward, b
about 3
hill, the
lements
have no
abitants
uft ren.
ue with
neration
ty to do
in their
ements
epofited
form as
ted with
| gold or
a tomb,
out four
> Inhabi-
artars of
the com-
fore fpe-
artars of
ftries Bay.
t. In. Li,
Q
0
>
co
©
nt nt
ower OL OO = Ue
coceccoocc¢c
=
299
OBSERVATIONS
Of M. de Monneron, Captain of the Corps of Engi.
po Jent in nality Pi Chief Engineer, in the Exe
pedition of M. de la Péroufe.
ISLAND OF TRINIDAD.
At Sea, the 17th of October, 1785.
THE Mand of Trinidad, fituated in the fouthert
hemifphere, about 180 leagues from the coat of
Brafil, continued uninhabited till the Englith, daring
the laft war, occupied it, with an intention, no doubt,
to facilitate the capture of French, Spanifh, and
Dutch prizes; but we were affured that, at the re-
turn of peace, they abandoned it. M. de la Péroufe
was defirous of afcertaining the fact. When we gor
fight of this ifland, we prefently perceived the For.
tuguefe flag on a little hill, at the head of a firall
bay, in the fouth-eaft part of the ifland.
M. de la Péroufe having hoifted out a boat, or-
dered me to ga with it, and obferve fome particulars
regarding this poft; but the officer who had the
command of this expedition, was ordered not to
land, unlefs it could be performed without rifk, We
approached near the fhore, and though unable to
land, had an opportunity of examining’ this fettle-
ment at a very finall diftance. It is fituated about
one-third up a little hill, facing a flat beach of fand,
which forms a creek in the fouth-caftern part of the
land. ‘This little bight is terminated to the weft-
ward, by two hills of bare rocks, which, lite the
whole ifland, are of a volcanic origin ; and vo the eaft~
ward, by a fugar-loaf hill, with a broud bafe, and:
about 300 feet high, adjoining to a kind of table
hill, the bafe of which is larger, while the height
appears
A ae
ral ae »
LATIN
mu 474, ha
ty, dv
N° ru
( à an o "
L )
WC
ft
300 OBSERVATIONS ON THE
appears lefs by one-third than that of the fugar-loaf.
The fand beach feems to be. from 45 to 60 fathoms
deep, and the land then rifes into a very regular and
fteep, though natural, glacis. Above this glacis is
a kind of ‘platform, which, in fortification, I fhould
<°" terre-plein, very much inclined on the fide to-
wards the fea, on account of which it is impoffible
to fhelter it from the fire of fhips at the anchorage,
I could not perceive any parapet, though :t is to be
prefumed there was one, à barbette; and though I
made every endeavour to difcover the traces of can-
non or batteries, I faw nothing which had any refcm-
blance to them. On the platform are five or fix huts,
refembling thofe of the negroes in, the fugar iflands,
and one larger than the reft, towards the falient
angle of the terre-plein. This fortification, if it ma
be called one, refembles a redent, one fide of, which
is parallel to the beach, and the other to a ravine,
near which the glacis in this part terminates.
_ Such an eftablifhment refembles rather a den of
banditti, than a poft occupicd by a civilized nation,
Excepting the natural obfiacles, which render a
landing on this ifland difficult and dangerous, there
is no trace to be perceived of any works capable of
refifting even a firft attack ; and I may confidently
venture to aflèrt, they have not a fingle veñel of
force. This leads me to think, that cither the Por
tuguefe have not been long fettled here, or that they
pay little attention to their-fettlement *.
M. de Vaujuas, who landed on this ifland, informed
M. de la Péroufe that he eftimated the inhabitants at
200 perfons. For my own part, FE examined ther
numbers very carefully, and feveral times counted
* As the ftrength of a poft is eftimated not only from its fitu-
ation, but alfo by thé number of its defenders, I aiked the Gover-
nor of St. Catharine how many troops the Queen of Portugal
maintained at Trinidad ? He faid he believed that poft might be
occupied by a detachment of 35 or 40 men.
thofe
1e fugar-loaf.
o 60 fathoms
y regular and
this glacis is
ion, I fhould
1 the fide to-
is impoflible
1e anchorage.
rh it is to be
and though I
traces of can-
ad any refem-
‘ec or fix huts,
fugar iflands,
s the falient
ion, if it may
fide of which
r tO a ravine,
nates.
ther a den of
rilized nation.
ich render a
gerous, there
tks capable of
confidently
igle veflel of
ther the Por
, or that they
nd, informed
inhabitants at
famined their
mes counted
nly from its fitu-
iked the Gover-
seen. of Portugal
at poft might be
ISLAND OF ST. CATHARINE. 801
thofe who prefented themfelves to our’ view, but
could never find more than 33 men difperfed along
the ftrand, or on the declivity of the hill, and about
36 who were looking at us from the platform, fo
that we may imagine, our appearance could not have
excited the curiofity of all the individuals who are
thus exiled upon this barren rock. ‘They reported
to M. Vaujuas, that provifions were fent them every
fix months from Rio Janeiro, and the garrifon relieved
every year. |
As I believe the bottom of this bay is of rock, it
would. perhaps be difficult to moor fhips here in or-
der to force this port into an immediate furrender ;
but if the difpofition of its defence is not altered,
rather than come to moorings in the bay of the fet-
tlement, I fhould advife anchoring in the fouth-weft
part of the ifland, where the anchorage mutt be
fafer, which probably would make it cafy to turn
the port, which is on the bay to the fouth-eaft, by
gaining’ pofleflion of the top of the mountain, at the
foot of which is the platform, inclined towards the
fea, already defcribed.
(Signed)
On board the Bouffole, 25th October, 172..
MONNERON.
ISLAND OF ST. CATHARINE,
At the Anchorage, from the Oth to the 19th of Novem
ber, 1785.
THE ifland of St. Catharine, fituatci on the
coaft of Brazil, in 27° 21’ S. lat. is a Portuguete
eftablifhment which, for 70 years, has been very rare-
ly vifited by any European fhips except thofe belong-
ing to that nation. ‘here are, thercfore, few docu-
ments
302 OBSERVATIONS ON THE
ments concerning it to be expected from the accounts
of travellers. Amd if the compiler of Anfon’s Voyage
jound a great difference both in the natural and po.
litical fituation of that colony, compared -with its for.
mer ftate in the time of Frezior, we may make a fimi-
lar remark with regard to it at prefent, as compared
with its fituation in the time of Anfan; fince it has
been confiderably increafed, if I am well informed, by
the introduction of a great number of families from
the Azorcs, at the expence of the Portuguefe govern:
ment, during the years 1752, 1753 and 1754. The
population being thus fuddenly augmented, mui
ise given a new face to the eftablifhment ; and as
thefe new colonifts were diligent, laborious and fkill-
ed in agriculture, the progrefs of the population muf
be encreafed, in proportion to thefe particular qualities
of the inhabitants, and the fertility of the foil. The
government here, as in all the Portuguefe colonies,
is purely military. |
We are ignorant what force the government keeps
in this colony during war; but judging from the ac-
counts when the place was taken by the Spaniards, it
will appear to be confiderable. Yet thefe troops
made fo miferable a defence, that it would have been
more to the honour of the Portuguefe nation, had
they been much lefs numerous.
Should an enterprize be formed againft this part of
Brazil, there is no doubt, that in the archives of Spain,
the particulars may be found of the number of the
forts, the abfclute ftrength of each, and the mutual
fuccours they afford.
Befides that, the Portuguefe are not confidcred to
be very fkilful in the art of conneéting pofitions to one
another. Iam well convinced from all I have fcen,
that the firength of connection between the different
pofts is almoft nothing. It is therefore to be fup-
poted, that the colony is fo much the weaker as its
forts are more numerous: I remarked only ii
which
the actounts
Anfon's Voyage
tural and po:
dwith its for-
y make a fimi-
as compared
; fince it has
lanformed, by
families from
guefe govern-
mented, mutt
ment; and as
ious and fkill-
ypulation mutt
icular qualities
the foil. The
ruefe colonies,
ernment keeps
ry from the ac-
e Spaniards, it
thefe troops
buld have been
nation, had
nft this part of
hives of Spain,
number of the
nd the mutuil
confidered to
bofitions to one
HI have feen,
n the different
fore to be fup-
weaker as its
d only three
"which
ISLAND OF ST. CATHARINE. 303
which could deferve that appellation ; and thefe, al-
though within fight of each other, feem formed one
to be carried with the firft attack, and the others to
remain idle fpectators of the difafter, and immediately
furrender. The rules of fortification therefore de-
mand, that thefe forts fhould be reduced to one, and
the expence of keeping the other two, which. fhould
be abandoned and even demolifhed, fhould be em-
ployed to augment the third, while the three garri-
fons fhould be formed into one, If inftead of three
forts there were a dozen, it may be eafily judged, what
ineffectual refiftance this colony muft make, unlefs
fo improper a fyfiem of defence fhould be entirely
abandoned *.
The road, which is open only to the north-eaft
winds, is fheltered to the eaft by the iffand of St. Ca.
tharine, and on the weft by the continent ; on the
fouth by the land both of the ifland and the eonti-
nent, which approach fo near, that they leave between
them only a firait of lefs than three hundred toifes
wide. Its entrance cannot in any manner be fhut
againft fhips of war of any rate or confiruction what-
ever.
The landing is in general eafy throughout the cir-
eu nference of the road. The greateft difficulty to
be apprehended is from a ftrong current, but the
fole inconvenience even that could occafion, would
be a delay in the difembarkation, and not unfre-
quently it might even advance it.
This road ts fo extenfive, that although the forts
are mounted with guns of a great caliber, thips may
* To have an exact knowledge of thefe three forts, independent
of th ir names, it may be remarked that they form nearly an equi-
lateral triangle, the bafe of which is to the northward, and the top
towards the fouth, That of the caft ftands on the north-eaft point
of St. Catharine, about a quarter of a league from the Perroquet
Ifand ; that to the weft, which is the moft confiderable, is on an
lot near the continent of America, and ‘the third is upon the
largeft of the two little iffands, called /os Ratones.
anchor
304 ' OBSERVATIONS ON THE:
anchor there'very commodioufly atid fecurely, out of
the reach of thefe guns. |
‘The principal fort, which however is; in fact, only a
large enclofed battery, is fituated inva little ifland; of
a-moderate clevation, above the level ‘of the fea, fi.
tuatcd at about 350 toifes from the terra firma, “and
oppofite a rideau, much higher than itfelf. At about
one third of the height of this rideaw an enemy
would ‘command the fort, fo as to obferve every thing
that paffés there, and fee from head to foot thofe who
ferve the guns. From this place, I am perfuaded,
the fort might be annoyed with a fire of mutquetry ;
but a fingle mortar, or two howitzers, which might
eafily be fixed upon this hill, would be fufficient to
force it to furrender. Indced this fort is by no means
eapable of making a regular defence: there are no
bomb-proof lodgments, for want of which, its fi-
tuation on an ifland is fo difadvantagcous, that al.
though the befieged were three to one againtt their
invaders, it would not be difficult to reduce it to fur-
render at difcretion ; and to complete the m'fery of
their fituation, they are placed under a height, which,
though it commands them, they cannot poflibly oc-
cupy.
Yet this fort is the poft of honour, where the ge-
neral officer, who commands the whole fettlement,
would fix his quarters ; for in time of peace he refides
at Noffs Senhora del Defero, a town which is abfo-
lutely open, and only defended by a {mall battery, à
barbette, on the ifland of St. Catharine, and on the
eafternmoft point of the little ftrait above mentioned,
behind which the town is built. The garrifon of the
principal fort was then compofed of fifty mén, badly
clothed and ill paid, under the command of a captain.
The Portuguefe officer, who commanded when the
Spaniards took St. Catharine’ s, fome years ago, Was
not made prifoner in the fort ; but, as his ‘defence
was any thing but honourable, he was acca 28
ore
=
\h
i
i
}
| i
ps
’ lit
|
|
pu
i
rely, out of
à fact, only a
le -ifland, of
the’ fea, fi-
à firma, and
lf. At about
L an enemy
s every thing
ot thote who
n perfuaded,
“mutquetry ;
which might
fufficient to
by no means
there are no
which, its fi-
us, that al-
againit their
uce it to fur-
the m'fery of
eight, which,
t poflibly oc-
where the ge-
e fettlement,
ace he refides
hich is abfo-
all battery, à
, and on the
re mentioned,
rarrifon of the
y men, badly
1 of a captain.
ded when the
ears ago, Was
s his defence
ummoncd be-
fore
ISLAND OF CATHARINE. 305
fore a court martial. Had he been fhut up in his
fort, however, I do not imagine the affairs of the Por-
tuguefe would have taken a better turn ; for this fort
not being very capacious, he could only have been ac-
companied bya very fmall part of his forces, and would
probably have been compelled to capitulate the firft
or fecond day of the attack, and to include, in the
articles of capitulation, all the troops under his com-
mand, who would doubtlefs have readily acceded ta
the furrender.
The Portuguefe, however, had no other alterna-
tive, than either to defend their forts, which, we
have feen, was impoffible, or to take the field.
Iam not fufficiently acquainted either with the
country, or the refpective forces of the two powers,
to judge. whether the latter would have been a much
more advantageous ftep ; but I am inclined to think,
that confidering the contempt entertained by the Spa-
niards for the Portuguefe, the colonifts would have be-
held their plantations ruined by their enemies, and
their provifions confumed and diffipated by their
countrymen, Scarcely any lands But thofe near the
fea fhore are cultivated, and thefe could afford but
a poor rcfource for the fubfiftence of two contending
armies, particularly when we confider how eager fol-
diers commonly are for pillage.
France ought, on no account, to make war on
this part of the Portuguefe fettlements, unlefs with
the intention of forming an eftablifhment there for
herfelf, and with the ‘hope of retaining, under a
treaty of peace, the territory fhe may conquer. Nor
could that acquifition fail to excite the jealoufy of
the-Spaniards, who would ever choofe their old ene-
mies, the Portuguefe, for neighbours, in preference
to their beft friends and moft faithful allies,
Confequently all hoftilities, on the part of France,
would be confined to a coup de main, which ought
to be undertaken by cruifers, who might direét
Vou. II, x their
306 : OBSERVATIONS ON
théir attack againft the fettlements of the whale
fifhery, particularly thould they be informed that the
Portuguefe are not more on their guard than in time
of peace. I would not, however, engage that the
prizes would defray the expence of the cxpedition,
unlefs the eftablifhment fhould be ranfomed, or the
governinent fhould grant an indemnification for the
deftruction of the {hips and warehoufes which be-
long to the revenue, fince the. prefent government
farms out the cxclufive privilege of the whale fifhery,
. This eftablifhment is at the head of a creek called
Bom-Porto, which conftitutes part of the great road-
ftead, and fhips may anchor there fheltered from
every wind,
(Signed) MONNERON.
On board of the Bouffole, 5 5th December, 1785.
—— =a 01: © Gare ———
CHILT.
At the Anchorage of Talcaguana, in the Road of Li
Conception, from the \Ath of February to the 1714
"of March, 1786.
ALTHOUGH the family compact between the
crowns of France and Spain feems to renderall military
reflections ufelefs, which our ftay at Chili enabled us
to make‘on the political {tate of this part of the Spanifh
dominions, yet as this domain may poflibly fall into
decay or total ruin, a time may arrive when the fol-
lowing remarks, now regarded as of no utility, may
acquire, confiderable importance :
I propel in this place not fo much to confider
the virtues and defects of the Spanifh government
in thefe colonies, as to fhew the ftrength or tweak-
nefs they produce. The kingdom of Chili, in South
America,
f the whale
ned that the
than in time
ige that the
- expedition,
med, or the
ation for the
*s which be-
government
vhale fifhery,
creek called
e great road-
eltered from
NERON.
e Road of La
1 to the 17th
between the
erall military
ili enabled us
of the Spanifh
Mbly fall into
hen the fol-
> utility, may
to confider
government
th or tveak-
hili, in South
America,
CHILI. 307
Ametica, is bounded on the weft by the South Sea ;
on the eaft by Bucnos Ayres and Paraguay ; and ex-
tends north and fouth from the frontiers of Peru,
from which it is, however, feparated by great deferts,
as far as Patagonia. This vaft country is crofled
and interfected in feveral parts, by chains of moun-
tains as high as in any other region of the world.
St. Jago, or Santiago, the capital of Chili, and the
refidence of the governor and captain-general, is
fituated inland, about thirty leagues from the :coaft,
and the neareft port to it is Valparayfo. This go-
vernment-gencral is divided into particular diftriéts;
and the city of Mocha, fituated only three fhort
leagues from Talcaguana, is the refidence of the
military commandant of the difiriét of La Concep-
tion, deftroyed by an earthquake in 1751. On our
arrival here, Brigadier Don Ambrofio Higgins, ma-
efro del campo of this department, was concluding a
treaty of peace with the Indians, neighbours of thofe
called Friendly Indians, but who, notwithftanding
that title, had been engaged in a war by the braveft
and mo't warlike of the Indians of the Cordilleras.
The military operations of an able commandant con-
fift in placing himfelf between his allies and his ene-
mies, in order to prevent the increafe of difaffec-
tion, and to have fewer combatants to engage ; but,
in fpite of the politick meafures of Spain in this
refpect, the numerous Indians of the Cofdilleras,
who yet remain unfubdued, the continual revolt of
the Indians, her allies, and the frequent infurrec-
tions of thofe whom fhe calls her fubjeéts, are
caufes too powerful and too continually in ation
not to afford a prefumption that her power in Chili
will be unavoidably deftroyed; and, perhaps, the
period of its overthrow is not fo diftant as fhe ima-
gines.
Confequently every expedition iffuing from Eu-
rope againft the province of Chili, unlefs its object
fhould
on a LN LL et
ae
308 OBSERVATIONS ON
fhould be fuch as I fhall prefently defcribe, will not
only fail to defray the expences, but doubtlefs occa-
fion a very confiderable lofs.
It muft never be forgotten, that the general fpirit
which apparently reigns throughout the Spanith fet-
tlements, is not relaxcd at Chili; and that the colo-
nifts are therefore mere farmers, or little retail deal-
ers; fo that although it is true that Chili produces
a very large quantity of gold, an invader would find
very “little of it, though he would meet with an
abundant fupply of every article of fubfiftence,
whether grain, wine, butchers’ meat, or other pro-
vifions. Thefe refources, it muft be confefled, are
but momentary, and ceafe to exift immediately on
putting again to fea. The means of defence for
preventing the landing of an enemy in this country,
are extremcly weak, not to fay abfolutely ineffec-
tual. Even in the road of La Conception, which
is confidered one of the beft in Chili, a ‘landing
might be effected in any part of it, and could re-
ceive no oppofition, except from two or threc bat-
teries, of which the moft confiderable is placed on
the beach. The others might eafily be filenced by
a few troops, landed out of the range of their
fhot. I fhould in juftice, however, obferve, that
thefe batteries are placed here not to prevent a land-
ing, but merely to protect the merchantmen tra-
ding from Chili to Peru, againft the attacks of pi-
rates, who might otherwifc very eafily take them in
the anchorage of Talcaguana at a cable’s length
from the fhore. A landing in the bay of La Con-
ception, therefore, offers no fort of rifk, no fear of
lofing either fhips or men; and I am firmly of opi-
nion, that, afterwards, a certain number of regular
troops, marching in military order, might arrive,
without difficulty, at Mocha, which, as is already
mentioned, is only three fhort leagues from Talca-
guana, over a vaft fandy plain, reaching aU
73 mile
e, will not
itlefs occa-
neral fpirit
panifh fct-
t the colo-
retail deal-
li produces
would find
et with an
fubfiftence,
other pro-
nfeffed, are
ediately on
defence for
is country,
sly ineffec-
tion, which
a ‘landing
| could re-
threc bat-
placed on
filenced by
rc of their
bferve, that
ent a land-
tmen tra-
cks of pi-
ke them in
ble’s length
of La Con-
no fear of
mly of opi-
of regular
‘ght arrive,
s is already
rom Talca-
g within à
mile
CHILI. 309
mile of that town, fituated on a fecond plain, lower
than the former, and a quarter of a league from the
river Biobio.
The richeft inhabitants of this city have no move-
able property ; and, on the firft view of the fettle-
ment, it is evident, that to levy any contributions
on them would be inhuman, All the advantage to
be gained by a defcent here, would be confined folely
tomaking an incurfion of three leagues up the land ;
and I fhould even think it imprudent not to haften
back to fea again immediately, for, in a very few
days, the maeftro del campo, would be at the head of
15,000 men; and in whatever manner the war is
conduéted, there would be no hope, if he had the
leatt principle of honour, of forcing him to capitu-
late. Should an enemy keep the ficld, he will be
eafily furrounded, or harrafied by a cavalry more nu-
merous than all his forces ; and fhould he occupy the
heights, the Spaniards being better acquainted with
the defiles, he will not even, by that means, be able
to carry on the war with greater advantage; and
the wifeft meafure he can adopt, not to fay the only
one he can take, is to retreat.
A more certain means of haftening the ruin of
the power of Spain in Chili, would be to form al-
liances with the Indians of Arauco and Taucapel,
who would fpecdily be joined by thofe of the Cor
dilleras, and thofe whom the Spaniards call their
friends and allies, would not fail foon to enter into
the confederacy. Affifted by the knowledge and the
arms of Europeans, this league would be fo formid-
able to the Spaniards, that, to avoid witneffing the
ruin of their fettlements, and the devaftation of their
poffeffions, and perhaps to fecure their own per-
fonal fafety, they would be obliged to abandon all,
and take refuge in Peru.
It will readily be perceived, that this plan is capa-
ble of great extenfion, and would require much
X 3 further
$10 OBSERVATIONS ON
further inveftigation ; but the time when it may
become of utility to France, is fo far diftant, that it
is fufficient only to have fuggefted it.
_ (Signed) MONNERON,.
On board the Bouffole, 30th March, 1786.
eee 094-6 ee
EASTER ISLAND.
At the Anchorage called Cook's Bay, South Latitude
27° 11/; Longitude, Weft from Paris, 11)° 55’ 30".
THIS ifland, from its fituation out of every fre-
quented track of navigation, from its total defici-
ency of wood and water, and from the ftate and
condition of its inhabitants, who have the greateft
inclination in the world to receive, without the pof-
fibility of returning any thing, may offer a vaft field
of fpeculation to the naturalift and philofopher ; but
can, in na refpect, be interefting to any of the va-
rious maritime powers of Europe. |
(Signed) MONNERON.
On board the Bouffole, r2th April, 1786.
SANDWICH ISLANDS.
At the Anchorage, 29th May, 1786, in 20° 34’ North
Latitude, 158° 25’ Weft Longitude from Paris.
WERE I obliged to write a memoir on the ad-
vantages of the fituation of thefe iflands, under any
or every point of vicw, I muft derive all my informa-
tion from the accounts contained in Cook’s third
voyage ;
BAY DES FRANGAIS. 311
voyage ; and were the ‘utility of'fuch a difcuffion
demonftrated, it is evident it may be purfued with
greater advantage and fagacity at Paris, than at fea.
(Signed) MONNERON,
On board the Bouffole, sth June, 1786. “9
ep Go} ls D eae
BAY DES FRANÇAIS.
Situated on the N. W. Coaft of America, in .58° 38
North Latitude. At Anchor in different Parts of the
Bay, from 2d July to Vt of Auguft, 1786.
THE impoffibility, in my opinion, of advanta-
geoufly eftablfhing a French factory in this bay,
renders every difcuffion of that kind embarraffing to
the writer, fince a memoir, refting on vague fuppo-
th Latitude
9 55 30".
F every fre-
otal defici-
: ftate and
the greateft
ut the pof- fitions, can deferve no greater confidéhce than if it
a vaft field were founded on uncertain facts. It is therefore
pher; but with great fatisfaétion, that I find, by a paper which
of the va- M. de la Péroufe hdd the goodnefs to communi-
cate to me, that he difluades government from en-
: aging in fuch a {ettlement, at leaft before his return
as de Pince. At that period, I fhall produce all the
notes neceffary to the difcuffion of this affair in full
detail; and fhould government form any decifion
on that object, it will be eafy then to demonftratt
its advantage or inconveniences. |
It will readily be prefumed that the feverity of the
Ral ache climate, the fmall refources of this country, its enor-
34° North mous diftance from the mother country, and laftly,
n Paris. the competition of the Spaniards and Ruflians, who
are very conveniently fituated for trading with it,
on the ad- will prevent other European powers from makin
under any any fettlement between Monterey and Prince Wil-
y_informa- liam’s Sound.
ok’s third X 4 It
voyage ;
812 OBSERVATIONS ON
It will alfo be previoufly neceffary, and efpecially
re attempting an eftablifhment, to weigh the
expence and the profits, in order to, determine the
number of perfons to be employed in fuch a factory,
This knowledge is indifpenfably neceffary, in order
to provide for the fafety of the adventurers, and of
the funds with which they would be entrufted, either
againft the natives of the country, or the enemics
of the commerce of France.
(Signed) MONNERON,
On béard the Bouffole, 19th Dec. 1786.
eee © Xe 6 nm —
HARBOUR OF MONTEREY,
Situated on the N. W. Coaft of America, in 36° 38’
North Latitude. At the Anchorage, from \5th to
24th of September, 1786.
A CENTURY will probably elapfe, and perhaps
double that period, before the Spanith fettlements, to
the northward of the peninfula of California, will
attract the attention of the great maritime powers.
Even that in whofe poffeffion they now are, will
not: for a long time, perhaps, think of eftablifhing
colonies there, capable of making any confiderable
progrefs. Her zeal, however, for the propagation
of the Catholick faith, has already difperfed over it
feveral miffionary eftablifhments ; but it is not to be
fuppofed that even privatecrs will difturb the body
_ of monks, by whom thefe are directed, in their pious
exercifes, |
With the intention, no doubt, of favouring the
prefidio of Monterey, the galleon has, for many
years, been obliged to touch at this port, on its
return from Manilla to Acapulco, But it is , far
rom
ind efpecially
fe) weigh the
letermine the
ich a factory,
ary, in order
urers, and of
rufted, either
the enemics
)JNNERON,
a, in 309 38/
from 15th to
and perhaps
ttlements, to
lifornia, will
time powers.
ow are, will
eftablithing
_confiderable
propagation
erfed over it
t is not to be
rb the body
n their pious
avouring the
s, for many
port, on its
it is fo far
from
MANILLA. 313
from neceffary either to put in, ot to make the land,
that even in time of peace, thefe fhips often prefer
continuing their courfe, and paying a certain fum by
way of recompence for the advantage ps might have
afforded the place in landing at it; and, in time of
war, they are ftill more defirous of avoiding it, if the
Spaniards imagine their enemics are cruizing off
there.
The land about Monterey, though dry, feems
adapted for advantageous cultivation. It is proved
that European grains grow there both fine and abun-
dant, and the butchers’ meat is of the beft quality.
It is therefore certain, confidering the commodiouf-
nefs of the harbour, that if this fettlement fhould
ever flourifh, a better port for one or more veffels
could not be found in any part of the world. But
previous to any political fpeculations on that head,
we muft wait till the Europeans eftablifhed on the
north-eaft coaft of this continent fhall extend their
fettlements to that on the north-weft, which will not
fpcedily be accomplifhed.
(Signed) MONNERON.
On board the Bouffole, 24th December, 1786.
OBSERVATIONS ON
MANILLA AND FORMOSA.
By M, de la Pérouje.
MANILLA.
IN that part of my narrative which relates to Ma-
nilla, I have endeavoured to detail all my ideas with
regard to the new company lately eftablifhed in Spain ;
referving for a particular memoir my opinions on the
extreme facility with which other nations might
poflefs themfelves of this colony. ‘The dominions of
| Spain
$14 OBSERVATIONS ON
Spain in the: Philippines are confined folely: to ‘the
ifland of Luconia, which, in tact, is very confiderable,
and ‘contains 900, 000 inhabitants, capable of carry.
ing on every manufacture, and performing: ever
fpecies of cultivation. : This people deteft the Spa.
niards, by whom they are at once horribly opprcièd
and defpifed'; and Fam convinced that a nation who
fhould fupply them with arms, would, without much
exertion, excite an infurreétion | in the ifland.
The only ‘bond which yet attaches them ‘to their:
conquerors, is that of religion. : ‘he majority of the
inhabitants sof <Luconia are very fincere Chriftians,
even to enthufiafm. Whatever’ power, therefore,
would obtain this ifland, mutt leave them their
churches, their priefts, their oratories, and, in gcne-
ral, treat every objeét of their worthip with retpect.
This would be the more cafy, as almoft all the parues
ure, at prefent, ferved by Indian prictis, who fecretly
entertain for the Spaniards the fame hatred that lurks
i. the bofom of all their countrymen.
The Bay of Manilla is open to fhips of every fize,
and can be defended only by men of war. Any ex-
pedition, therefore, againti this colony, pr efuppofes a
decided fapcriority of naval foree.
The fortifications of the place, though regular and
perfectly well kept up, could only retard for a few
days the furrender of a city, which cannot expect
fuccours cither from Europe or any other quarter.
The garrifon is compofed only of one regiment of
mulattocs. The corps of artillery confifting of 200
mc, as well as the’ 150 dragoons, arc alfo Ameri-
cans ; and though the Spaniards are perfuaded thete
troops will bear a comparifon with thofe of Europe, I
um io well convinced of the contrary, that I fhould
not fear with 1,500 men to attack 4,000 of the for-
mer, aud that with certainty offuccefs.
The militia of the ifland may form a ire: of 8,000
men, and keep the ficld as in the war of 1760, after
ae | the
t
wou
carg
whit
maf
ino
be |
as t
foot
lon,
folely to ‘the
confiderable,
ible of carry.
rming: ever
teft the Spa-
bly oppresied
nation who ‘
jithout much
and." :
em to their:
njority of the
e Chriftians,
r, therefore,
them their
ind, in gcne-
Hees retpect,
1 the pari: ics
who fecretly
ed that lurks
of every fize,
uw. Any ex-
prefuppotes a
1 regular and
d for a few
nnot expcct
r quarter.
regiment of
ifting of 200
alfo Aimceri-
‘fuaded thefe
of Europe, |
vat I fhould
) of the for-
ody of 8,000
"1760, after
the
MANILLA. ' 315
the Englifh had poffeffed themfelves of the city of
Manilla. But circumftances are now very diffcrent,
and it would not be difficult to oppofe one part of
the country to the other, fhould any part of it declare
for the. Spaniards; or were it not infinitely more
_ probable that the militia would refufe to march, par-
ticularly if means were found of gaining over fome of
the Indian priefts, and perfuading them that the in-
vaders are as good Catholics as the Spaniards.
Indeed, the conqueft of Manilla appears to me fo
eafy and fo certain, with a fuperiority of naval force
and 5,000 troops, that I fhould prefer this expedi-
tion to one againft Formofa, and I think I might
anfwer for its fuccefs.
But we ought rather to view the Spaniards as our
good and faithful allies than as enemies, and it muft
be underftood that this colony could be of no utility
in carrying on a war in India. Situated in the feas of
China, which can only be navigated with the monfoons,
itis impoffible for the commander of a French fqua-
dron ever to entertain an idea of taking refuge there.
To touch at the Ifle of France, though, on account of
its great diftance, it is generally deemed fo difadvan-
tageous for any operations in India, would yet be in-
finitely preferable.
The want of commerce at Manilla almoft entirely
prevents any fupplies of provifion from being procur-
ed there, becaufe the inhabitants cultivate no more
than is neceflary for their own confumption. It
would not, however, be impoffible to procure fome
cargoes of rice, a little cordage made in the country,
which is very inferior to that of Europe, and a few
mafis ; but thefe articles muft certainly be fent for
in our own veflëis, nor is it to be fuppofed they could
be procured from Manilla on a fimple demand ; and
as the feas of China are navigable only with the mon-
foons, the neceilary fupplics muft be provided very
long beforchand. It muft be remembced too that
the
316 OBSERVATIONS ON MANILLA.
the fhips that come from Manilla have to traverfe fers
where there is much to be Anprsnendsd from an cne-
-my ; and it will be almoft abfolutely neceflary to di.
vide the forces more or lefs, in order to proted their
return,
Taking the Jaft war for an example, I think that
the fleet of M. le Bailli de Suffren was of the great.
cft utility to the colony of Manilla, by occupying all
the forces of the enemy, and preventing them from
meditating any other diftant expcdition, while, on
the contrary, the city of Manilla could be ufeful to
the former in cafe it could have fupplied him with
piaftres; but as that is not a production of the coun-
try, it is only to be expected from Mexico, which ne-
ver fends more than fufficient for the moft urgent
wants of the Spanifh colony.
The Spaniards, whether Creoles or Europeans, in
‘the whole ifland of Luconia are only eftimated at
3,200. It as a fingular fact, that not one Spanith fa-
mily has continued 'to the fourth generation, while
the population of the Indians has augmented fince
the conqueft, becaufe the land docs not, as in Ame-
rica, conceal within its bofom thofe deftructive me-
tals, whofe minces have fwallowed up the generations
of feveral millions of men employcd in working them.
In the ifland of Luconia only a few grains of gold are
found diffeminated among the fand of the rivers ; and
the Jabour of collcéting it is even lefs fatiguing than
that of cultivating the land. The Spaniards are alfo
fovereigns of the Southern Philippine Hlands, nearly
inthe fume manner as the King of Sardinia is King of
Cyprus and Jerufalem, or the King of England King
of France. They have, in fact, a few prefidios in the
neighbouring iflands, and in Mindanao, but their h-
mits are not more extenfive than thofe of Oran or
Ceuta, on the coaft of Africa.
FORMOSS.
IF y
chapter
sigatio
ready f
that ifl
the far
mit où
ter of t
boat of
guns, |
wat W
and it
patche
to nav
ward d
the Ct
with
deterre
is to b
other 1
boat te
pect w
and w
tants ;
to lan
inform
compr
T have
ed wi
the fc
negles
both.
confic
or Og
ports
necedl
pA .
to traverfe feqs
bd from an cne.
neceflary to di.
o protect their
ey I think that
is of the great-
r occupying all
ing them from
ion, while, on
ld be ufeful to
lied him with
n of the coun-
‘ico, which ne-
e moft urgent
Europeans, in
y eftimated at
one Spanifh fa-
eration, while
ymented fince
t, as in Ame-
efiructive me-
he generations
vorking them.
ins of gold are
he rivers ; and
atiguing than
iards are alfo
lands, nearly
inia is King of
england King
refidios in the
, but their li-
e of Oran or
FORMOS3.
317
FORMOSA.
IF you have devoted a few moments to reading the
chapter in my journal relative to Manilla, and my na-
sigation along the coaft of Formofa, you will have al-
ready perceived that I anchored before the capital of
that ifland oppofite the ancient port of Zcland ; but
the fand-banks, of which this coaft is full, did not per-
mit our fhips to approach within a league and a quar-
tr of that place. I did not think proper to fend a
boat on fhore, which I could not protect with my
guns, fearing it might be detained on account of the
war which at that time exifted between this colon
and its metropolis. M. d’Entrecafteaux had dif-
patched the fhip la Sylphide to Manilla, to defire me
to navigate with great circumfpeétion to the north-
ward of China, as the leaft uneafinefs on the part of
the Chinefe might be injurious to the negociation
with which he was entrufted. I confefs I was not
deterred by this motive, for I am convinced more
is to be gained of the Chinefe by fear than by any
other means : but I confidered that, in fending a
boat to Taywan, the greateft advantage I could cx-
pect would be its returning with a few refrefhments,
and without any communication with the inhabi-
tants; for even fhould the officer be permitted
to land, moft certainly he could have given me no
information upon his return, fince he could aot have
comprehended a fingle word of Chinefe. Thus fhould
Ihave rifked very great inconveniences, unattend-
ed with the hope of any advantage, had Phazarded
the fending a boat on fhore. I did not, however,
neglect to obtain information relative to*Formota,
both at China and Manilla, and I think I may very
confidently affert, that 2 frigates, 4 corvettes, and 5
or Ügun-boats, with a fufficient number of tranf-
ports for 4,000 troops, provided with artillery and all
neceflary ammunition, would be fufficient to fecure
the
318 OBSERVATIONS ON
the fuccefs of this expedition, which a wife may
would not undertake with a fmaller force, though
perhaps 1200 or 1500 men would appear Hinfficicat
to thofe enterprifing adventurers, who having no-
thing to lofe, make war a game of mere hazard, with.
out confidering how humiliating it is for a great na-
tion to mifcarry in its attempts againtt a people very
inferior in courage, in arms, and in military fcicnce;
though, in my opinion, far above the contemptible
rank in which they are held by Europeans. The em-
ire of China #s fo vaft, that a great difference may
well be fuppofed to exift between the inhabitants of
the northern and fouthern parts, the latter of whom are
a cowardly mean-fpirited people. Europeans inha-
biting the province of Canton, from an acquain-
tance with their character, entertain the moft con:
temptible opinion of the Chinefe.
But the inhabitants of the north, thofe Tartars who
conquered China, muft not be eonfountled with this
fervile race. Yet, though fuperior to the Chinefe of
the fouth, I cannot compare them with even the worft
of our troops; to whom they are füll far inferior,
though not fo much in courage, as in their manner of
making war. Be this as it may, the Chinefe, who
confider the prefervation of Formofa of the highet
importance, keep a garrifon of 10,000 Tartars on this
ifland. Their cannon, their forts, even the pofts
which they occupy, and in which they are intrench-
éd, I difregard ; but I think an enterprize of fuch
a nature, fhould never be formed without an almoft
abiolute ecrtainty of a fuccefsful conclufion. The
coaft of Formofa being flat, fmall veflels only can ap-
proach it, and boats drawin; æ fcven or cight feet water,
carrying guns, and adapted for protecting the defcent,
would be abfolutely requifite. The firft operation
ought to be that of gaining pofléflion of the Pcfcador
Iflands, where there is a good harbour, to fhelter the
ficet ; and it would not require more than five or fix
hours
‘hou
lan
ana
fore
the
are |
S
the
dera
lony
fout
nitic
thor
cout
T
and
to 1
{trot
Iflar
dem
not
emp
fect
{ped
the
to C
iflan
{ur
ke
But
Frat
cern
1 a wife man
force, though
pear fufficient
o having no-
> hazard, with-
for a great na-
t a people very
litary feience;
; contemptible
ins. The em-
lifference may
inhabitants of:
er of whom are
uropeans inha-
) an acquain-
the moft con-
fe Tartars who
nded with this
» the Chinefe of
even the wortt
ll far inferior,
heir manner of
Chinefe, who
of the highett
Tartars on this
even the pofts
Vy are intrench-
erprize of {uch
hout an almoft
iclufion. The
Is only can ap-
ight feet water,
ng the defcent,
firft operation
f the Pcfcador
, to fhelter the
than five or fix
hours
FORMOSA. ~ 319
hours to crofs the channel which feparates thefe
ilands from Formofa. The time for executing fuch
an attempt, would be April, May, and June, and be-
fore the months of July and Auguft, during which,
the feas of China are expofed to water fbonts, which
are greatly to be dreaded by {hips
Should this expedition be made in concert with
the Spaniards, the entrepdt of Manifla would confi-
derably facilitate its fuccefs; becaufe from that co
lony, it is at'aïktimes cafy to effect a landing on the
fouthern part of Formofa ; and provifions and ammu-
nition would be found there, which might be wanted,
thould a refifancs or the lof of any fhips render fuc-
cours necefiary.
The ifland of Formofa is of very great importance ;
and any nation poffeiling it, and cflentially ftudying
to improve it to the belt advantage, by keeping a
firong garrifon there, with a marine at the Pefcador
Iflands, would obtain by fear every thing they might
demand of the Chinefe. Lam convinced, that had
not the Englifh been engaged in wars, which have
employed all their forces, they wouid already have ef-
fected this conquett, more interefting in every re-
{pect for them, than for any other nation, becaufe
the pernicious ufe of tea, has rendered them tributary
toChina, and that plant is become in all the Britith
iflands, an article of firtt neceffity. I fhould not be
furprifed, foon to behold all Europeans reduced to
the fame condition in China, as the Dutch in Japan.
But this revolution will be of little importance to
France, and even to the reft of Europe, whofe con-
cerns with China are not worth their fubmitting to
any humiliations ; though I muft once more obferve,
that the Englifh will cither be obliged to fubmit to
them or to engage in a war; and I have no doubt
they would then rather adopt the latter alternative.
It is well known in Europe, that the eaftern part
of Formofa is inhabited by the aborigines, and does
not
320 OBSERVATIONS ON
not recognize the fovereignty of the Chinefe ; but the
weftern part is extremely populous, becaufe the Chi.
nefe being too numerous, and greatly opprefled in
their own country, are always ready to emigrate,
I have been affured, that fince the conqueft of the
ifland, 500,000 have removed there, and that the ca-
pie city contained 50,000 inhabitants. As thefe
ive in habits of labour and induftry, this would be
a further advantage to the conquerors. But it muft
ever be kept in view, that greater forces would, per-
haps, be required to keep in fubjection than to con-
quer a people, naturally very prone to rebellion ; and
that if, after conquering the ifland, the means of
preferving it fhould be neglected, and the vicors
avoid the expence of keeping, and recruiting a hody
of three or four thoufand men, at fo vatt a diftance,
they would run the rifk of being all maflacred.
I believe the produce of this ifland, would\one day
defray the expences of its government ; but I am per.
fuaded, that the firft years of its poffeffion would be
very expenfive, and a miniftry would {ce with regret,
confiderable fums of money pafs over to this part of
Afia, which prornifed but a very diftant return,
The commerce with China would at firft be inter-
rupted, but it would, in my opinion, foon revive with
increafed vigour, and permiffion would certainly be
obtained, to vifit the feveral ports of the province
of Fokien, the coaft of which forms once fide of the
Bay of Formofa. It remains to be confidered what
opening offers for the Chinefe articles of commerce,
the bafis of which is tea, an articie confumed hardly
any where but in England, a little in Holland, and
in the United States of America.
I may, therefore, conclude this memoir with an af-
furance.of the poffibility of conquering Formofa, by
the means I have pointed out, and part’ alarly fhould
we be favoured with the affiftance of the Spaniard:
of Manilla; but it is not equally clear that this con-
quelt
hinefe ; but the
ecaufe the Chi.
ly oppreffed in
y to emigrate,
conqueft of the
ind that the ca-
nts. As thefe
, this would be
s. But it muft
ces would, per-
yn than to con-
rebellion ; and
, the means of
and the victors
cruiting a hody
vaft a diftance,
saflacred,
_wouldione day
; but Iam per.
effion would be
fee with regret,
r to this part of
at return,
at firft be inter-
foon revive with
ald certainly be
f the province
one fide of the
onfidered what
5 of commerce,
nfumed hardly
Holland, and
moir with an af-
x Formosa, by
* alarly fhould
f the Spaniards
r that this con-
queft
TEREBRATULA OR POULETTE. 321
quéft would not be an-additional burden, to the ftate,
and then it would be far better not to have conquer-
ed, than to permit fuch a fettlement to languith.
Jn the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul,
ioth September, i787. : :
DO OSE
ORSERVATIONS ON. THE TEREBRATULA, ANOMIA; OR
POULETTE.
And a Defcription of a Species of that Animal found in
the Seas of Eaftern Tartary ; by M. de Lamanon,
Member of the Academy of Turin, and Correfpondent
Member of the Academy of Sciences.
THE animal called terebratula, or poulette, has
long been found in a ftate of petrefaction ; and it has
been thought, that nothing analogous to this fhell
now exifts in the fea. It would, however, have been
eafy to prove the contrary.. The terebratula, if I
may be allowed the expreffion, belongs to all ages,
and all countries. :Cotemporary with thofe fhell-
fifh, whofe race is now extinct, though they once
peopled the ancient waters, it has furvived them ;
and after having efcaped the aftonifhing revolutions of
the earth, which have deftroyed the greater number
of tefacee, pifces, and cruflacee, it has witnefled a new
race fucceeding the old and former, as the feas of the
prefent day have gradually been formed. The foffil te-
rebratula is found in the mountains of all climates,
ard moft frequently among the belemnites *, the re-
* Belemnites, vulgarly called thunder-dclts, or thunder ftones, are
fuppofed to be originally either a part of fome marine produétion,
or a ftone formed in the cavity of fome worm-fhell, which being of
a tender and brittle nature, has perithed, after giving its form to the
ftone. They are often inclofed in, or adhere to other ftones, and
are moft frequent in gravel or in clay : they abound in Gloucefter,
and are found near Dedington in Oxfordfhire, where they fome-
times contain the filver marcafite.—-T ran/lator.
Vor. IT. D mains
322 OBSERVATIONS ON THE
mains of cornu ammonis, hyfterolithes, and other
aquatic inhabitants of the ancient world, The living
terebratula is found in the midft of fhells of late for-
mation, in both hernifpheres.
Aldrovandus has given, under the name of
chamæ, the figure of a truc poulette caught in the
fea; but he wrote as was the fafhion in the end of
the fixtcenth century. It was not till 1748 that the
foffil terebratula was difcovered ; and Volfterdorfis,
I believe, the firft who has fpoken of it, in his Sy
téme Minéral, printed at that time. The learned
tranflator of Lehman fays ina note, Book III, page
182, that M. de Juffieu fhewed him a fpecimen
analogous to the terebratula, found in the fea
near Marfeilles. M, de Bois-jourdain, at Paris, and
M. Schmidt, at Berne, are faid each to poffefs a ma-
rine terebratula in their rich cabinets. M. de Jou-
bert has defcribed, fome years ago, in the Memoirs
of the Academy, the poulettes of the fea of Montpe-
lier, which are in general fmaller than thofe found in
the mountains. I have fome in my cabinet as large
as the foffils that come from the feas of Malta; and
I have feen others in the cabinet of natural hiftory
belonging to the univerfity of Turin, that were taken
in the feas of Nice. Some are found at Leghorn,
and M. de Luc has had one in his cabinet more than
five and twenty years; of which he fays, “ It is not
of the fpecies moft commonly found among foffils.”
(Lettres fur 1 Hiftoire de la Terre et de l Homme, firft
letter, page 238.) They are alfo found in the Adri-
atic Gulph. M. l’Abbé Fortis, who difcovered them,
fays, that they keep at a depth of two hundred feet
in the neighbourhood of the harbour of Siberico, and
are found ata much greater depth in the caverns
where coral is formed. The poulette has promi-
nences on both fides, and is flightly canulicated both
in its length and breadth. He confiders it as a new
fpecies, and adds that, in part, it refembles the =
|
_and other
The living
Of late for-
> name of
ught in the
the end of
748 that the
Tolfterdorf is,
, in his Sy/-
The learned
0k IIT, page
a fpecimen
in the fea
at Paris, and
poffefs a ma-
M. de Jou-
he Memoirs
1 of Montpe-
nofe found in
inet as large
Malta; and
tural hiftory
t were taken
at Leghorn,
bet more than
s, “It is not
ong foffils.”
Homme, firtt
in the Adri-
overed them,
hundred feet
Siberico, and
the caverns
has promi-
ulicated both
s it as a new
bles the fof-
fil
TEREBRATULA OR POULETTE. 323
fil powlette defcribed by M. le Baron de Hapech, of
which he has gen the figure, (plate iv. Nos. 16 and
17). That of Mahon has been known at Paris, as
are thofe which come from the Indies, and of which
one fpecies is fmooth, and another ftriated. They
are alfo met with in the Norwegian feas, and M. de
Bougainville caught one of them in the Strait of
Magellan.
Foffil poulettes have been found in a much greater
number of places; and the varieties they prefent are
much more numerous. During my voyage I have
collected nearly thirty fpecies, the laft of which I
found at Port des Frangais, on the north weft coaft
of America. On comparing the foffil poulettes with
the living animals of that clafs, I haye found fome
of them exactly fimilar. To fome of the marine
animals no analogous petrification is known; but
there ars flill more among the petrifications for which
no counterpart has yet been found in the fea.
I have: met with a few fmall poulettes on fome muf-
cles drawn up by the Bouffole’s men with their lines
near the Bay of Ternai, in about 35 fathoms water.
Sixty-two leagues more to the northward, near the
Baie de Suffren, both large and {mall were caught on
board the Bouffole, as well as by the Aftrolabe ; and
M. de la Péroufe having thrown out the drag to
know whether thefe fhores produced pearl oyfters,
it brought up a fpecies of pectinated oyfter, which I
thal! elfewhere defcribe, and a great quantity of pou-
lettes, apparently of different ages. The poulette
forming of itfelf a feparate genus, I thought it necef-
fary to examine it with attention, and to defcribe,
not only its fhell, but the animal by which it is in-
habited. ‘This has not hitherto been done; for the
defcription of the two poulettes, by M. Pallas, was
taken from very imperfect fpecimens, as I fhall have
an opportunity of demonftrating. In the excellent
work of M. Adamfon on the fhells of Senegal, an
Y2 explanation
jm LI@HSERVATIONS ON THE
“ckplaiation will be! fond “of the che
vie. Rave beer die ged to adopt.: |
du Jen
saa aii. OF THE COAST Pre
| fe PAR. Va Dafiription of the She chr
lined lines Jen
20 by 18 in the largeft {pecimens.
: Dimenfions. : 184 by 12inthofe of a snide
Tote et 6: by: 05 /in the fmalleft., Jovi
ofore, he ‘diftinguithed bythe" pro
hells; Not do’ the’ fea fes of
better " dittin ite’ ‘chatiGterss
hy Gn the fame fpecies, the fhell : aps
Srbicular form, ‘or varies from, that
‘tha 7 nent and that fomie have'theedpés of
valves Gr ‘the fame plain} while’ im‘ others one
€ valves thakes a ‘falient-angle it the’ middle of
16, edge; ‘and: the other à téturning angle.
Nate of the fre. "Thé fhell is of a thoderate
tickets nearly réf ‘that’ of the common
mrifete.” Tt is fomevehat tran patent and convex, end
fwollen like’ the chamiæ. “Neither of the ‘valves is
as more convex than the! other! but that which
the fpur, is rather more | ‘fo, partiéularly in its
On the fhrfiee of the? fhell' tire! feen very
Mt tranfverfe ¢hatitiels,° femi-citcular:a dures à
dating. which “unite ‘at the: place where” ie a
beat tobe circular, and forms the: phele, n ren
cars the fümmit. | RUN
NEA ah sing These ftriæ are: covet i D
fine and flightly adhering periofteurn. ' Sonié RE
be fom: “one to three fhallow ‘and ‘broad ‘deprettigns © L
Penn from the centér of. the fhell in a ii aii
mo
POULETUES
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he’ ‘middle of
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TEREBRATULA OR. POULETTE. 325.
, moft infenfible,. terminating at the edges where they.
are more marked, and, with the correfponding parts.
of the other. valve, - fon the: falient and ; returning,
angles before mentioned. This perioftenm : adheres-4
little more rangs, at at, the xeturning than. at the.
lient Se ae
‘Valves. The Re di da hat ne dE their’ |
4
circumference; whieh, is round, | y exactly
but, towards the fummit, one one ig al Fes a
four, see tke the ose ‘the
whee 2"
tion ‘of it its upper fides. the folded oat SR a con-.
fiderable aperture, rather ofan oval fhape, and large ;-
and through, this-the, animal protrudes the muiele,
by which it adheres, to any-extraneous bady,; Thefe.
edges not being joined, a fpace is left between. them
occupied by the fummit. of the other valve ; ; and thus:
they have a free motion: this fhell is therefore not
perforated, as its, name feems to indicate; for the
opening is not pierced through onc of the valves, but
formed by, the elongation of the one, the folding of
its edges, and. the approach of the. other. IE _the
fummit,is not pointed but round.
Ligament. The ligament, as in the ET TA is
placed between the fummits, is. not apparent exter-
nally, and is fitted to:the pedicle of the animal. As
the fummit; occupies a confiderable part of the fhell,
the two valves cannot -be. opened far without danger |
of breaking. 1t is very folid, though, fine and farce-
ly apparent ; is enclofed in; a little channel, filled,
when the fhell.is clofed, by the ridge of the corres
pondent part of the valvé which has the fpur. ‘This
ligament, prefer ves.its fpring, and docs-not, became
very brittle, even. after the -fhcll is empty and. quite
dry
Hinge. Oyfters have no Wangs being ‘devoid of
Y 3 thofe
326 OBSERVATIONS ON THE
thofe teeth by which it is formed in many other
fhell-fifh. The terebratula has been confidered as
an oyfter, becaufe its hinge, which indeed is not to
be found in the foffil fhell, has not been examined ;
but on opening the live poulette, teeth are difcovered
compofing the hinge, even larger than thofe of a
great number of other fhells. ig
' It is very remarkable that in a foffile ftate the valves
of this animal are almoft always united ; other bival-
vular fhells have their valves generally either open or
totally feparated ; a fa&t which muft be attributed to
the nature of the hinge: that of the poulette will not
permit it to feparate, and the ligament which it pre-
ferves, and which is very extenfive, contributes ta
keep the two valves united.
he teeth that form the hinge of the poulette near-
ly refemble thofe of the /pondylus defcribed \by M.
À damfon, and are formed of two round prominences
in the /pondylus, and fomewhat elongated in the pou-
Jette. Above thefe teeth is placed the ligament, in
the fpur valve. Between this and the teeth are two
cavities, one on each fide, ferving as alveoli to receive
the teeth of the other valve, where are fimilar alveo-
li for the fame purpofe. The teeth of the fpur-valve
have befides a flight ridge, which enters into a lon-
gitudinal channel perceivable in the other valve, in
the interior part of every tooth. —
Nacre or Enamel, The fubftance which covers the
infide of the fhell, holds a middle rank, like that of
the oyfter, between mother of pearl and the interior
of fhells which have no fuch coat, and its colour,
glofs, polifh and thicknefs vary,. not only with
the age of the animal, but alfo in different indivi-
duals, es dl
Colour. The colour of the teeth is always white.
The outfide of the fhell inclines more or lefs to that
of red ochre, particularly towards the edges ; and ee
oe ee ee peas à infide
many other
onfidered as
ed is not to
1 examined ;
e difcovered
. thofe of a
ite the valves
other bival-
ither open or
attributed to
Jette will not
which it pre-
ontributes to
poulette near-
ribed \by M.
| prominences
d in the pou-
: ligament, in
eeth are two
coli to receive
fimilar alveo-
the fpur-valve
rs into a lon-
ther valve, in
ich covers the
, like that of
d'the interior
d its colour,
ot only with
ferent indivi-
always white.
pr lefs to that
Iges ; and the
- infide
‘ TEREBRATULA OR POULETTE. 327
infide has alfo a very light fhade ofthe fame red on a
varying ground of greyifh white., > |"
+ Tendons.' ‘The defcription of thefe ‘belonging to
that of the animal, we fhall here confider ef their
fitüation and impreffion on the fhell.. On each valve
of the poxderte I examined, the placés of the two ten-
dons were feen very diftinétly. In this refpec alfo
they differ from the genus ochreæ, which have only
one tendon paffing from the middle of their ‘body.
The tendons of M in the fpur-valve are ob-
long, fituated near the fummit and hollow. Each of
them ‘has curved tranfverfe furrows divided’ by a
longitudinal furrow, being a tolerable imitation of the
wings of feveral infects. In the other valve, the ten-
dons are of a different fhape. They are placed in
the fame manner, and very irregularly rounded, and
Gre circumfcribed with two canulations, which’ leave
a kind of ridge between them, and then continue in a
ftraight line towards the! aperture of the fhell, about
two thirds of its length. This ridge is a refemblance
of a taylor’s fhears. a Te
That part of the fummit of the fhell through which
the pedicle of the animal paffes, is ftriated longitudinal-
lyin the fpur-valve, the middle ftria being the deepef ;
and there is one tranfverfe ftria dividing all the lon-
gitudinal ftria,in two equal parts. Nothing fimilar
appears in the other valve, us |
The fhells of poulettes have, in the infide, a very
thin part peculiar to themfelves, which fome authors
have mentioned under the name of tongue or fork,
becaufe they had never feen them entire. It ferves
to fuftain the body of the animal, and will be de-
fcribed in fpeaking of its more immediate ufe.
Se. II.—Defcription of the Animal,
THE anatomy of fhell-fith js very delicate, and
prefents infurmountable difficulties. The isa À
YA 0
828 … pQBSBRVATIONS ON -THE ,
ef Rhedi,of Régumur and of Swammerdam, have left
it {till far from complete, and in, their immortal works
they. have confefld they often wandered in, the dark.
Tn the animals;that inhabit fhells, and;partieularly m
the bivalvular, many parts. remain, to :be difcovered,
and the: ufes of others are yet undetermined, . Fur-
ther comparifons are required relative to the, generic,
fpecific and individual differences, and_in this ftudya
vaft field is ftill left to. be explored, ;, Some difcove-
ries of the kind 1 hoped to have. made in. the diffec-
‘tion of the animal which inhabits the bénisier fcallop,
or pecten'maximus, which isthe largeft of the bivalvular
tribe hitherto known, and in which all the parts mutt
be diflinétly apparent, I faw.a, few : of thefe shells
at the, Philippines, but. the province, that fupplied
them: was.too far. from,the port of. Cavita, where .we
hadputin, It:would be far, beyond my, powers to
give the complete anatomy:of.the fifh, but Dee
the example. of Adamfon, L fhal . confider the parts
that are moft known, and which fuffice to diflinguith
the genus. |
Une " Manteau and. Trachea. |
The menteau of the poulette of Baie de Suffren,
is, formed by a very fine membrane, which covers
the whole of the infide of both valves, and enfolds
the body ofthe animal. At its, origin it is of the
whole breadth. of the ‘hinge, but afterwards divides
into two lobes, one of which covers the fpur-valve,
and the.other that on which.the body of the animal
refts. , It forms, therefore, only one aperture, which
terminates at each end of the hinge, and is of equal
extent With the interior furfaces of the fhell. “ Thus
therc is in appearance but one trachea, formed by two
lobes of the manteau. ‘M. de Pallas did not diftin-
guifh the:manteau in the twa varieties he has,de-
fcribéd, but has called them,, very improperly, per
: tt ts | ofica;
lam, have left
mortal works
| in, the. dark.
articularly in
e, difcovered,
nined, F Ur-
the, generic,
in this ftudy a
ome, difcove-
in. the diffec-
utier tcallop,
he bivalvular
he parts muft
:thefe fhells
that fupplied
a,..where .we
y, powers. to
sut following
der the parts
0 diftinguith
ede Suffren,
vhich’ covers
and enfolds
it is of the
vards divides
> fpur-valve,
F the animal
ture, which
dis of equal
hell. ‘Thus
rmed by two
d not diftin-
he has,de-
operly, peri-
ONCE
TEREBRATULA OR POULETTR. 229
oftea ; an error into, which he has ‘been led, by the
decayed flate. of the dried fpecimens he examined...
|. Mujeles,.... After partly opening the thell, I cut ‘the
ligament as delicat ly as paffible’ ;opened the hinge,
and having detached from the fpur-valve the lobe of
the manteau which covers it, pulled it over the, body
ofthe animal. By this operation I difcovered the
great. ies which adhere;to the ‘fpur-yalye ; they
are, foft, membranous, and,,as it, were, flefhy within,
heing covered with {mall fangniferous glands, : From
the inferior part of each mufcular area aries a firong
tendon, reaching to the extremity of, the, manteau,
They, run parallel to the edge of the fhell, and are at
a diftance from cach other. . Each.of thefe is inclofed
ina kind of flat bag, in form of a ribbon, which is
filled with a, red yifcid matter. The place from
whenec the mufclesfpring, furnith, befides the mufeles
which extend over the lobe of the manteau, a true
blood, principally contained in-three fmall flefhy red
bodies, of a, glandular, form, and. unequal, thicknefs,
which may, be pereeived, on tearing the mufcles near
their root, and perhaps, fupply the place ‘of a heart.
The anotomy of thell-fith is not fufficicntly advanced
to decide this queftion ;: but certain it is, that in the
poulette, the mufcles attached to the fpur-valve, are
covered with flefhy, parts, containing a confidcrable
quantity of blood, as well as. two other mufcles,
which originate in. the fame place,.and contribute to
form the pedicle, of which I fhall prefently fpeak. .
The mufcles attached to the other valve, are alfo
divided into feveral parts. Some of them run over the
lobe of the manteau ; feveral rife in a kind of tuft,
and. are adapted to the fuperior valve ; fome are fub-
divided, fo that I could not follow their ramifications,
even with a microfeope ; but others more apparent,
contribute, to form. the pedicle which portrudes
through the aperture left between the two valves, at-
taches to both of them by feveral tendons, and fafiens
, on
330 OBSERVATIONS ON THE
on external bodies, particularly on other living fhell.
fi. The mufoles of the poulette have therefore,
three attachments, one on the internal furface of each
fhell, and the third on any foreign body,
The pedicle is cylindrical, furrounded by a mufcu-
lar fubftance, inclofing feveral tendons, and is from
one lirie to two and a half in length, and two thirds
of a line in diameter. By what means it adheres fo
forcibly to different bodies I am ignorant ;° for is is
eafier to lacerate both the animal and every feparate
mufcle which arifes from the infide and unites with
the pedicle, than to detach the pedicle itfelf, from
the bafe it faftens on; and the ater which unites
them refifts even the heat of boiling water. This pe-
dicle fupports the fhell, and keeps it fo elevated, that
when in the water, it is found in a pofition inclined
towards the horizon. The narroweft valve\ which
contains the animal is always the loweft, and is cover-
ed by the fuperior or fpur-valve. There is, therefore,
no reafon for generally calling the fmallefl the fupe-
rior valve; though attending only to the fhells of
oyfters arranged in cabinets, it has been crroneoufly
imagined, that the finalleft was always the fupcrior,
and ferved as a covering to the larger. |
To determine with certainty, whether thefe animals
poñefsthefaculty of locomotion, or remain continually
fixed in the place of their birth, would require a long
courfe of obfervation and experiment. I have reafon,
however, to believe they have the power of moving
from one place to another, but that it is very rarely
done throughout the courfe of their exiftence. Hav-
ing detached feveral pedicles with a fharp inftrument,
I obferved, particularly in the larger fort, that they
were fixed in a fmall cavity formed in the fhell to
which they adhered; and this kind of excava-
tion, and the ftrong adherence of the pedicle to any
_ extraneous body, prove in fome meafure, that the
poulette occupies the fame place for a very long Lx
ut
living fhell,
ve therefore,
urface of each
by a mufcu-
and is from
nd two thirds
‘it adheres fo
ant ; for is is
very feparate
l unites with
le itfelf, from
which unites
er. This pe-
elevated, that
ition inclined
valve| which
and is cover-
sis, therefore,
eft the fupe-
the fhells of
n crroneoufly
the fuperior,
thefe animals
in continually
equire a long
have reafon,
er of moving
is very rarely
ftence. Hay-
D inftrument,
rt, that they
‘the fhell to
of excava-
pedicle to any
re, that the
ry long time.
But
TEREBRATULA OR POULETTE. - 331
But I found feyeral groupes of fmall ones fo clofe to’:
er, that they could not without incommod-
ing each other; for a fingle poulette of a moderate’
occupies an me fpace with five or fix fall ones,
ills. Afterraifing upthelobeof the manteau, which
I had pulled over on the body of the animal, I ob-
ferved its gills, which are large, and compofed of two
membranous laminæ on each fide, of which the upper
is the narroweff. Thefe laminæ are united by a
fine membrane, fo as to form together but one pouch,
and at their edges have long flenbrice floating on the
manteay, But the moft remarkable phenomenon is,
that the gills are fupported by fmall bones as in fith.
Thefe bones I ‘thal defcribe, after having enume-
rated the foft parts diftinguifhable in thefe i
lettes. ‘The gills are arched on each fide, and fepa-
rated at the lower part, where the fimbriæ are.
longeft, fo that the two gillson one fide are perfect
diftin€l from thofe of the oppofite fide. Thefe gills
have their origin at the teeth of the hinge. #
Mouth, Œfophagus, Stomach. Inthe middle of the
ills, are feen the mouth, cefophagus and ftomach,
Siné a triangle, of which the firft is the bafe.
It is placed toward the hinge, and formed by a
large tranfverfe aperture without a jaw-bone, and
with lips not very apparent. ‘The œfophagus is
very fhort, but capable of elongation, when the
animal opens its mouth. The “‘omach, which is
in the fhape of a pointed fack, :: attached by a
membrane to’ the fmall bones of the gills, but only
in the upper part, and for half its length. On open-
ing it, J found a fimall fhrimp entire, and another
half digefted. It is difficult to conceive how fhrimps,
which poffefs great agility, and good eyes, fhould fuf-
fer themfelves to be entrapped by a blind animal,
who can fcarcely open his fhell, and is fixed in an im-
moveable fituation : but nature has given to animals,
and aquatics in particular, unknown means of ac-
: complifh
382- 1 PRABRYATIONS ON bar
complith, their vital funétionss. and. thçfe means, if
Amigbt conduog, by fome,
The, fre
jure... ont, prod ec osewokved? J
: Small Bones, of the Gills The fall bones of. the
gills, .which I bave. difcovgred jn, thefe ,animals, have
not, hitherto, been por ja any.animal of the or-
der of teftacea, and in this the tercbratula approach
nearer to fifh, than any. other of that tribe. ‘ Only a
fmal} part of thefebones: remain in the: poulettes feen
in cabinets; and thence aig derived the, improper
appellations.of tongue.and,furk,.whichoarc only appli.
cable to: the. form of the fragments there cxhibited,
and do not indicate-their uf.) ig
.: The; fall bones. ofthe, gills. are compofed of
feverak pieces. . The. principal. is of, an, oval. form,
and, arifes from cach fide. of; the. hinge, appearing to
be an elongation, of the :falient parts. . It. extends
more, than two-thirds the length, of the et, where
it is reflected, and terminates:above the: fork,, to, the
branches of which it isunited, by mere fuperpofition ;
a fort.of articulation, very, common. in, the: numerous
parts,, that compofe. the heads. of fith..., Lhe fork: is
fituated at fomewhat more than;two-thirds,the length
of. the .fhell, reckoning from the fummit; and is
fit oe eae ok “formed
ef mess, if
MS Jertanate,
Hg dos oer
GJRERLAE te,
ra like asco.
being: ath à
is. fortned of
expelled. on,
afily rejected
c, two. lobes,
of, the : pou
trance. of the,
1 other: fmall
iationsof the
that, of the
nny this cons
bones of the
nimals, have
al of the or-
ule à "Nua
be. . Only a
poulettes {een
he improper
conly appli.
re, cxhibited,
compofed of
n, oval form,
appearing to
It. extends
hé, where
fork, to. the
tperpolition ;
be numerous
he fork: is
Is the length
mit ; and is
* formed
TERESRATVLX ON POULRITE. $33
formed). bp ecpitot) divided intô Mtwe:ilong ‘pointed
chin hd Fa dncpaimoïilÿ:fragile, and fits
told ringed iterate ap! oH 8 extremities 26f: the
finale bones pf the orge gilliny eWiietamins,; which
forms lof Seach ‘fide! w feconditiorder:af gills, is chin-
nested witha! incurvatedsdborie)}! »wluch;! om one
fide, is attachedrtotbe imfgrian! andi internal: part of
the fall bone of the gills ;,and;on the/other;
extends as far as the fide of the animal’s mouth,
where it is united to another fmall and flat bone,
which lies” upon! “a ‘fall bot, : fitnifaeto that on
the other fide. Thefe laft bones are exactly be-
low the ferBrahe hat forme “the mouth; . but 1
am ignorant of their real ufe, ‘orwhether, as I pre-
fume, 'the-anitil émniploys them in voluntatily open-
ing and fhutting his ftomach,’ ‘by! difténding or con-
trading the fKin‘atthe orifice? ‘AlFthefe bones eré
flat, extremely brittle, and ferrotinded) with tendons
and membranes.” Fhefe articulations give mobility
to the gills, and they fupport the body'of the ani-
mal, which touchés ‘neither of its ' valves)but refts
in thé middle, ‘ds‘it’ were “upon 'treffels)'° The face
comprifed between the branches of ‘the bones of thé
gills,‘ is furtethed With ‘a tran{parent® but folid mem-
brane; and a fimilar one rifes perpendicularly from
the foot of the fork, and feparatés the ‘place where
the body of the“aninal Ties fem all the reft of the
fhell. , This membrane leaves atthe ‘two cornérs an
aperture: comiutrenting With the pate Between the
lobes’ Of ‘the ‘inanteay, “atid “whieh fupplies the place
of a:thachea) for" it" has! Been’¥émarked, in the de-
fcription of the manteau, that’ the itwo lobes are
entirely Separate! ahd conieqtieritly forni Only à filfé
trachea Pk TOC Sit 10! BSTISGS i
Front this deliiption of the poolettel. it Hollews
that this'animal ought Aét to ‘be elafied-in the fame
genus with the dyfters for it has! an Hinge, feveral
ligaments; “and at inteniah) fra ure,” entirely. dif-
Mot ferent
334 OBSERVATIONS ON THE
ferent from that fith: Nor muft it be confounded
with chama, which have equal valves, no perceptible
periofieam, à foot appearing externally, and two
fethy pipes, befides other diftinguifhing characters ;
ftill lefs does it refemble any other bivalve teftaceæ,
and muft be claffed feparately ; as it forms of itfelf
a genus, of which the: fpecies, either living or in a
ftate, are very numerous. |
BXPLANATION OF THE FIGURES.
Fig, 1. Poulette of a middle fire, viewed on its un-
der furface, | |
À, the aperture through which the mufcular
, pedicle, pafies,
Fig. 2. Poulette of a middle fige, viewed on its
upper furface, |
Fig. 3 mn te Small poudeties, viewed on different
, 1Ges.
Fig. 5. Middle-fized poulette, viewed fideways.
Fig. 6. Natural pofition of the animal in the water.
Fig. 7.. The valve having the fpur.
A, impreffion of the mufcles on the infide
: of the fhell,
Fig. 8. The lower valve.
| À, impreffion of the mufcles,
Fig. 9. Internal view of a poulette, | .
AA, laminæ of the fuperior gills.—BB, thofe
of the inferior gills.=C, the ftomach.—
D, the anus:—ËE, thé manteau.—F, the
cefophagus.
Fig. 10. AA, mufculat pedicle, paffing through the
aperture of the upper valve.
Fig. 11, The {mall bones of the gills.—A, the fork.
. . —+BBB, fmall bones of the larger gills.—
CCC, lower valve.—DD, {mall bones be-
low the cefophagus.—EE, points i 1
ork.
lve teftaceæ,
rms of itfelf
iving or in a
ES.
d on its un-
the mufcular
ewed on its
on different
deways.
n the water.
on the infide
s.—HB, thofe
> ftomach.—
au.—F, the
through the
“A, the 3j
arger gills.—
all bones be-
points. of the
fork.
CORNU AMMONIS, : 335
fork.—FF, fmall bones of the fuperiot
gills.—GG, teeth of the hinge to which
the fmall bones of the gills are attached:
—H, fituation of the pedicle.—II, places
of the fimbriæ of the gills,
OBSERVATIONS ON THE CORNU AMMONIS.
Defeription of a Species found between the Tropicks in
* the South Sea, By M. de Loin
OF all the animals, whofe remains are found buried
in the ancient beds of the ocean, the cornu ammonis
is, indifputably, the moft abundant, the moft uni-
verfally difperfed. And though fomc authors have
a 8 à 300 varieties, from half a line or lefs,
to ten. feet in circumference, the full number of
them are by no means yet determined. Some na-
turalifts, following the opinion of Linnæus, affert
that animals, analogous to every fpecies of the foffil
cornu ammonis, ftill exift in the vaft and deepeft
abyfles of the fea, and for that reafon call them
tekacea pelagi. Others, however, and in much greater
numbers, unfatisfied with a mere affertion, confider
the cornu ammonis as a genus of fhell fith, to be
foundienly in a foffil ftate, and no longer a living
inhabitant of the ocean. Many authors have given
defcriptions of microfcopic ammonites, found among
the fand caft on fhore by the waves of the (ea, in
various places ; -but almoft all thefe. fhells,. when exe
amined with more accuracy, have been difcovered to
be only nautili. As for thofe Hoffman was fuppofed
to have difcovered in Norway, he found latterly, they
were not cornu ammonis, but tubuli marini. My
opinion is, that our prefent feas may yet afford fome
living
,
rm
836 | OBSERVATIONS ON THE
living fpeciinens of the cornu ammonié,: though fey
ity nuniwWer;: and: different: from: the: foil inds 3
which mufiibe:confidercthas having: beemonce the moft
numerous family, though their race .is-now extind,
or reduced to a fewsabfolutely: degenerated indivi.
duals.
The moft gratuitous .hypothefis is generally the
moft difficult to combat. Hence probably it is,
that nothing has hitherto been alleged againft the
fuppofition of théfe pelagian fhells exifting in the
ocean, though it is an opinion generally.rejected, and
the following obfervations appear to me to prove it
erroncous.
The foffil fhells of cornu ammonis are ex.
tremely thino'and light, while thofe of animals re.
fiding conttantly at the bottom of the fea are thick
and ponderous. «Moreover, the: form of the foffil
fliell indicates, in fome meafure,. the organization of
the animal whofe manfion it formed. The ivan
Juffieu proved, as long ago as 1721, that the greatett
analogy exifts between the cornu ammonis ‘and: the
nautilus*.: “As itis well known that the nautilus, by
filling ‘or emptying one part of its thell, . poffeffes the
faculty of retting at any depth of water, doubtless
the cornw ammonis:muft have the fame power ; and
if the ocean be yetfull of them, why are not fome
difcovered by navigators? Or why are not fome of
their remains: driven on fhore by the waves ? If they
exift in fuch ‘abundance, they mutt often be found in
the ‘nets ‘of fifhermen ; or, at leaft, a few fragments
wotild adhere .to the lead, when it defcends to a
great depth.'o Weemay add alfo, that if’ thefe corna
ammionis never quit the abyfles of the océan, their
i # "There ‘are; however, foiné very remarkablé differences in
theitinternal itructure; the partitions of the nautilus have more
finuofities than thofe of the cornu ammonis; and the latter have
no fmall holes of communication from one divifion to another.
French Ebrtors ~~. i ;
petrifactions
ri eve few
foffil kinds;
sance the moft
“now extind,
erated indivi.
generally the
robably it is,
d againft the
xifting in the
-rejected,.and
ne to prove it
)nis are ex-
of animals re.
::fea are thick
of «the: foffil
a of
Phe celebrated
at the greatett
onis ‘and: the
1e nautilus, by
2° pofieftes the
re doubtlefs
power ; and
are riot fome
e not fome of
aves ? ‘If they
n be found in
few fragments
defcends to a
‘ thefe cornû
océan, their
lé : differences in
utilus have more
nd the latter have
ifion to another.
petrifactions
CORNU AMMONIS. 337
petrifactions would never be formed at the fame leve]
and in the fame beds with other fhells, which only
inhabit the fhallows. Yet they are found in Nor-
mandy, Provence, Touraine, and various other places,
incompany with turbines, buccina, and other fhells,
common to the fea-fhores, and at all degrees of ele-
yation from below even the level of the fea to the
fummits of the higheft mountains. The fame ana-
logy leads us to believe, that Nature having given
eyes to the nautilus, would not leave this animal
deftitute of the organs of vifion ; but of what utility
would they be to a creature bound a prifoner in the
caverns of the ocean, where rays of light can never
penetrate.
The extinélion of the ancient race of thefe ani-
mals is, therefore, a fact, which no rational hypo-
thefis can overturn; and conftitutes, indifputably, the
moft extraordinary circumftance. in the hiftory of ani-
mals inhabiting the fea. Of this fact the truth will
remain unfhaken, even by the difcovery of a few liv-
ing ammonites ;- for thefe do not refemble the petri-
fied fpecies hitherto known, are very rare, and muft
by no means be confidered as the reprefentatives of
the ammonites, which were fo various in their fpe-
cies, and fo numerous, as to exceed, perhaps, the
whole collective race of all the other teftaceous fith
that peopled the ancient ocean.
Wallerius, fpeaking of the cornua ammonis, ranks
them with thofe fhells which have feparate divifions,
communicating by a pipe. It is certain, however,
there are fome cornua ammonis not divided into fe-
parate compartments. It is well known that authors
have confidered them as nautili, and that in both fpe-
cies there are fhells both with and without divi-
fions. Each fpecies muft be fippofed to have its
varieties, as it fhould appear at leaft from the pe-
trifations.
The name of cornu ammonis belongs to every uni-
Vou. II. Z valve
338 OBSERVATIONS, ÉŸc.
valve fhell, which is rolled up intoitfelfon a horizontal
plane dividing it into two parts, and formed of feve-
ral united fpirals, vifible externally, and bearing to
each other a certain proportion. |
The volutes of Saint Hubert are not cornua am.
monis, fince their fpirals are disjoined.
The tubuli marini cannot be cornua ammonis,
becaufe their fpirals are not in one-horizontal plane
dividing the fhell into two equal parts; for on exa- |
mination it will be found, that the fpirals, though
prominent above are flattened below at their bafe,
The planorbes, which: nearly refemble the cornua
ammionis whofe fhells are not divided into cells, dif.
fer from them in their firft fpire, the breadth of which
is much fmaller in proportion to the reft of the thell.
Some of thefe refemble in their external appearance
the cornu ammonis with cells, and are very diffe-
rent from the other fort. \
The nautili differ from the ammonites in their
fpires being internal. ‘They enter the fhell after the
firft circumvolution, while the fpires of the cornua
ammonis are all external.
I think it neceffary to determine what I would un-
derftand by a cornu ammonis, previous to the fol-
lowing defcription of one I found in the courfe
of my voyage.
The form of it is almoft orbicular, the longitudinal
diameter being to the lateral as 3 lines to 2 lines 3.
Fhe firft fpire is larger than the others, and occupies
nearly half the longitudinal diameter. The fummit
is fituated at two thirds of this length ; and it is ter-
minated, on the right fide, bya very {mall knob, vifible
with a glafs; in which refpect it differs from that of
Rimini, which was, befides, microfcopic and camerat-
ed, whereas this has no internal divifion of cells. The
convolutions of the fpires are four in number, befides
one incomplete. Thefe fpires are equally convex on
both fides, and are revolved on a plane dividing hi
€
n a horizontal
rmed of feve-
id bearing to
t cornua am-
ua ammonis,
rizontal plane
; for on exa-
pirals, though
their bafe.
le the cornua
into cells, dif:
adth of which
ft of the fhell.
al appearance
re very diffe-
\
mites in their
fhell after the
of the cornua
at I would un-
us to the fol-
in the courfe
ne longitudinal
to 2 lines 3.
and occupies
The fummit
and it is ter-
] knob, vifible
s from that of
and camerat-
of cells. The
mber, befides
lly convex on
+ dividing the
fhell
SEA OTTER SKINS. 339
{hell into two equal parts. On each fide isa kind of
bofs, formed by the augmentation of the perpendicu-
lar fpires, as their diftance from the fummit increafes.
The .furface is fmooth, and the back provided
with a flat creft, fmooth, brittle, and as thin as pa-
paper, and forming all round it a kind of folid ruff.
It is nearly half a line in length, runs along the back
of the fpires, ferves to join them together, and is in-
fead of a columella. The orifice of the fhell is almoft
triangular; the fides are prolonged in form of lips,
and are rounded at their edges.
The cornua ammonis I have often formed in the
ftomach of donitas (fcomber pelamis Linnzi, 170, 2)
caught in the South-fea between the tropics, where
we could not {trike ground with a line of above 200
fathoms. Thefe fhells were covered with a black
mud of a fchiftous nature. In fize they vary from
one to four lines in diameter, and are the largeft
animals of this genus that have hitherto been found
alive. .The animal being partly digefted, it was im-
poffible to make any vbfervations upon it,
Explanation of the Figures.
Fig. 1. Cornu ammonis of the natural fize,
2. Form of its mouth. °
3 and 4. The fame magnified.
nD © fe 0 Gee
MEMOIR ON THE COMMERCE OF SEA-OTTER SKINS,
Ede. De.
IT was my duty néver to lofe fight of the aim of
Government, in fitting out the Bouffole and Aftrolabe
ata very great experice, which was not limited to
the improvement of geography; and that it was the
province of the commander of the expedition to in-
pi: the Miniftry what commercial advantages may
Z 2 be
340 ON THE COMMERCE OF
be derived from the produétions of the different
countries we have vifited. : :
The coaft of America, from Mount Saint Elias to
Monterey, only offers, for the fpeculation of mer.
chants, furs of all kinds, and particularly fea-otter
fkins ; for fuch there is.a certain fale at China. This
fur, fo valuable in Afia, is more common in Ame.
rica, and more widely difperfed over an extent of
coäft of 1200 leagues, than cven feals on the coaft
of Labrador. But however extenfive the empire of
China may be, it feems impoffible thefe fkins fhould
- continue to produce fo high a price, when the
different nations of Europe fhall have introduced
a competition in the trade. To fpeak metaphori-
cally, the mine of thefe animals is fo abundant, that
feveral veffels might in one year make a confiderable
traffick there, though the privilege of each were con-
fined to an extent of coaft of about 5 degrees, and
énding about 30 leagues to the northward of Port
San Francifco, the laft of the Spanith fettlements.
Mr. Cox has given very ample details of thé com-
i
merce of Ruffia with China, which muft now be
rated at more than double the amount, according to
his table; and I have no doubt the Ruffian factors
are extending their trade at this moment to Cook's
River, and will {oon carry it as far as Prince Wil-
liam’s Sound *. To the political views of my expe-
dition, it was of confiderable importance to know
‘with equal precifion what fettlements the Spaniards
have to the fouthward. Thefe two nations extend
their commerce in thefe articles from Kamtfchatka
to California; but, at the time of my departure, it
was unknown in France what climates produce thefe
animals in the greateft numbers, what the limits of
the Spanith fettlements are, and what fhare that
. * At Kamtfchatka, I thall endearanr to afcertain the truth. of
this conjecture.
country
F the different
: Saint Elias to
lation of mer.
ularly fea-otter
at China. This
mon in Ame-
r an extent of
Is on the coaft
the empire of
fe fkins fhould
ice, when the
ve introduced
ak metaphori-
abundant, that
a confiderable
each wére con-
| degrees, and
hward of Port
fh fettlements.
s of the com-
muft now be
t, according to
Ruffian factors
ent to Cook’s
s Prince Wil-
vs of my expe-
ance to know
the Spaniards
nations extend
1 Kamtfchatka
y departure, it
; produce thefe
, the limits of
hat fhare that
ertain the truth. of
country
SEA OTTER SKYNS. 34)
country wel to take in the fur trade with China.
It was expected, perhaps, that the natural indolence
of Spain would long afford room for the fpirit and
Lure of other nations; and certainly the plan
of the Viceroy of Mexico, of referving the exclufive
privilege of this cominerce for the Government, is
well adapted to realize thefe hopes.
I have no other means of acquiring the neceflary
information than by going to Monterey; for it 18
well known the Spaniards have not @r a long time
publifhed any thing, it being the policy of their Go-
vernment to preferve the greateit fecrecy in all their
concerns with America, Had not the addrefs of the
Englifh, in latter times, procured and printed a copy
of the journal of a pilot named Maurillo, we fhould
have been ignorant, even to this day, of the miffions
at Monterey. This journal, however, being in a mane .
ner nothing more than the track of a {mall corvette
from the port of Sen Blas to that of Los Remedios in
579 N. lat. affords us no other information; and the
Spaniards, at that time, fcarcely imagined thefe furs
more valuable than rabbit-fkins. The pilot Mau-
rillo, therefore, does not mention even the cxiftence
of this amphibious animal, which, probably, he con-
founded with the feal. But his countrymen are
now better informed, and have learned that there is
avery great confumption of them in the northern
provinces of China, where they form the winter drefs
of all mandarines of the firft rank, and every other
perfon of wealth in the empire; and are, perhaps, to
them the moft eminently defirable article of laxury ;
becaufe they not only pleafe the cye by their delicate
glofs and finenefs, but are alfo modcrately warm,
and, therefore, better adapted than any other furs for
the purpofe of cloathing,
In this place, I fhall not repeat the various details *
* They are, however, abfolutely neceflary, to underitand thi
memoir.
| Z 3 inferted
342 ON THE COMMERCE OF
inferted in my narrative, which it appears to me,
may be publifhed without inconvenience, but fhall
proceed to enquire, whether it would be advan.
tageous to France to eftablifh a factory at Port des
Français, of which as wc have taken pofleffion, and
to which no other nation can controvert our claim;
or whether fhe ought to leave that trade, to be
parties by private adyenturers ; or, laftly, prohibit
er merchants from all fpeculation in this branch of
commerce,
As this memoir is written during my pañäge from
Monterey to China, I have not yet obtained all the
. information on the fubjeét neceflary. for completely
refolving thefe queftions, which depend greatly on
the demand for thefe fkins at China, and particularly
on the fall in their value, neceffarily enfuing from
the introduction of 10,000 fea otter fkins, which the
Prefidio of Monterey alone would annually fupply,
while their new fettlements to the northward of Port
des Français might produce a fill greater quan.
tity.
We purchafed at Port des Français about a thou-
fand otter fkins; a quantity fufficient to determine
with precifion their value in China. Scarcely any of
thefe fkins are, however, entire, becaufe the northern
Indians, not having a certain market for them, make
them up into fhirts, coverlets, and other articles of
cloathing, and fold them to us in pieces, dirty, ftink-
ing, torn, and in fhort, fuch as, at prefent, cannot
be expected to produce a very high price in China;
though in Captain Cook’s third voyage it is faid, that
every piece of this fkin was readily fold. Had we an
agent on the north-weft coaft of America, or even a
regular commerce through veflels trading there every
year, the Indians would foon bring to market only
the entire fkins, efpecially if our traders refufed to
accept any that had been made up for drefles.
It would have been extremely eafy to have pre
| cure
appears to me,
ence, but {hall
puld be advan.
ory at Port des
poffeffion, and
ert our claim ;
at trade, to be
laftly, prohibit
1 this branch of
y paffage from
bbtaincd all the
for completely
pend greatly on
and particularly
y enfuing from
| ia rich the
nnually fupply,
rthward of hs
greater quan.
s about a thou-
t to determine
Scarcely any of
ife the northern
for them, make
ther articles of
es, dirty, ftink-
prefent, cannot
ice in China;
¢ it is faid, that
Id. Had we an
erica, Or even a
ling there every
to market only
ders refufed to
dreffes.
7 to have pro-
cured
SEA OTTER SKINS. 343
cured five or fix thoufand fkins, by putting into five
or. fix other bays, only from Port des Français to that
of Los Remedios, and employing the whole feafon in
that trade ; but convinced that it is the duty of veffels
belonging to the State to protect and encourage com-
merce, but not to carry on trade themfelves, I en-
tirely rejected the idea. The quantity we have was
obtained at Port des Français in the {pace of eight or
ten days. They are more than fufficient for our
purpofe, and I would not have facrificed the leaft
object of utility for a thoufand fkins more; though
a certain number. were neceflary to afcertain their
value, and inform the commercial intereft what may
be expected from fuch fpeculations *.
[have reflected much on the plan of eftablifhing
a factory at Port des Français, or its environs, and
find many obftacles to it, arifing not only from its
immenfe diftance from Europe, but alfo from the
uncertainty of the returns of fuch a trade with China,
when Spaniards, Ruffians, Englith, and French, fhall
become competitors there on the fale of fkins, which
it would be fo eafy to procure on any part of this
coaft, It cannot be doubted alfo, but our Eaft India
Company would object to the privilege neceffary to
the adventurers before they can trade with China.
* The money arifing from the fale will be divided among the
failors, as compenfation for the dangers they have incurred, and
the fatigues they have undergone. With the greateft fatisfaétion I
find all the officers and paflengers of opinion with me, that
to mingle any views of intereft with the public fpirited motives
ee this voyage was undertaken, would be a fpecies of fa-
‘crilege. me
I have appointed M. Dufrefne fupercargo for the crew; and
his accounts, the divifion we have made, and the receipt of each
individual fhall be laid before the Minifter. Should the fum they
produce be confiderable, I doubt not, that added to the amount of
each man’s pay, it will induce moft of them to marry; and
thus their circumftances being made eafy for their rank in life,
many increafing families will be formed, which may, hereafter be-
come of great fervice to the navy. |
ZA The
344 ON THE COMMERCE or
The equipment too would be fo expétfive, that the
mere trade in futs would not be fufficient to indeni-
a a company like that uf Hudfon’s-Bay, for the
difburfements of its factory and fhips, fhould they bé
obliged to return atl to Europe ; and it would be
abfolutely neceflary that the fan India Company
fhould be bound, not only to freight them back, at
a price to be fixed in Europe, but alfo to take the
produce of their furs at intereft, and employ it in the
purchafe of their cargoes. |
But thefe regulations are fubjeét to great inconve-
nicnces, and the two companies and their fervants
would be unavoidably engaged in inceflant difputes,
Nor would they fucceed better were both trades
united; for then one of them muft be inactive, and
that one would moft certainly be the fur-trade. Ex-
clufive privileges always deftroy commerce, \as large
Hine choak the fhrubs that grow beneath their
ade.
Though the Ruffians are eftablifhed to the north-
ward and the Spaniards to the fouthward, many years
will elapfebefore thefe nations méet,and there will long
remain intermediate points which other nations might
occupy without exciting the jealoufy of any pcople,
if governments were not always more reftlefs and
jealous than their fubjects. Spain. would doubtlefs
confider it as an ufurpation for the French to occupy
a few acres of land, which the former might in vain
employ whole centuries in fearching for, if the latitude
and longitude of the place were concealed. Bat, I
confefs, the advantages do not appear to me fuffi-
cient to juftify hazarding the flighteft altercation be-
tween the Courts of Verfailles and Madrid; and even
granting the acquiefcence of the latter.in fuch a fct-
tlement, it would be neceffary to makc a trial of this
commerce by private adventurers, in order to afcer-
tain whether it refts on a firm: bafis in China. It
would not yct be the time for conflituting an exclufive
company ;
ive, that the
ént to indem-
Bay, for the
nould they bt
dit would be
dia Company
them back, at
fo to take the
iploy it in the
Freat inconve-
their fervants
flant difputes,
+ both trades
inactive, and
r-trade. Ex-
ercé, \as large
bencath their
to the north-
d, many years
here will long
nations might
of any pcople,
e refileis and
puld doubtlefs
ch to occupy
might in vain
if the latitude
to me fufi-
Altercation be-
rid; and even
in fuch a fet-
a trial of this
rder to afcer-
in China. It
g an exclufive
COINpany ;
aled. Bat, I
SEA OTTER SKINS. 34$
company 3 a privilege fhould métely be granted to
fome Commercial town for three expeditions of two
{hips every year, which fhould fail at the fame feafon.
It would then be poffible news of the firft expedition
may arrive when the laft was getting under’ fail.
Thefe equipments would be expenfive, hecaufe the
fhips muft be well built, and fitted out with an ample
flore of fails, cables, and cordage of precy kind, and
commanded by experienced feamen. The length
and difficulties of this voyage could not be compared
with any other; and therefore no Vvefféls of lefs than
four or five hundred tons burthen ought to encoun- :
ter the feas of Cape Horn and North America. In
firictnefs, they might, perhaps, be rather lefs, were
their fole obje@ to procure furs in exchange for the
articles of barter they would carry out: But it thould
be remarked, that the expence of freighting a veficl
of 300 tons is very little lefs than that employed in
one of 500, fince each would require aii excellent
commander, and an equal number of officers. The
only difference would, thetefore, confift in {even or
eight failors more or lefs; and as it has been fug-
gelted, it will be neceflary to require of the Eaft-
India Company to freight them home on its own
account ; it will then make a confiderable difference
to the owners to have five hundred tons of freight
inftead of three hundred. .
To fum up the various heads of this paper, we
ought not yet in my opinion to think of eftablifhing a
factory, and the prefent is not even the time to form
an exclufive company for this trade. Still lefs ought it
to be entrufted to the Eaft India Company ; for they
would either wholly neglect it, or conduct it very ill;
and thus would difguft the government with the
fcheme. But it would be moft confiftent with wif-
dom, to engage one of our commercial towns to
make a trial of three voyages, fecuring them a freight
from China, as I have already mentioned. Govern-
ment
346 ON THE COMMERCE OF
ment may-be affured, that fuch fhips would find à
great quantity of fea otter fkins, between Nootka
Sound and Baie des Frangais; but they fhould only
run into very open bays, whence it would be eafy tn
get out, becaufe by putting into a greater number
of places, their trade would be more abundant.
he fkins procured the firft year will be dirty and
injured, but in fucceeding years, they will probably
be obtained in better condition,
Iron in bars of four fingers broad, and fix or eight
lines thick, common iron hatches, and large blue or
red beads would be the beft articles of barter; and a
cargo of this kind would incur but a very fmall ex-
pence in the outfit *.
The chart I have fent to the minifter of marine,
would be of fervice to them. It is fo exact, that
few charts that have been conftructed in hafte while
under fail, rynning along the coaft, will bear a compa-
rifon with it. . The currents feem to be the principal
danger of this voyage, and it will be neceflary to avoid
the narrow harbours, where they are: very rapid.
With this precaution, I have no doubt, thofe who con-
duct the barter will procure a great quantity of fkins,
particularly if they avoid all quarrels with the na-
tives, and never attempt to reclaim the articles they
may ftcal, which cannot be of any great import-
ance.
This is all the information I have hitherto been
able to obtain concerning this commerce. The
whole of my reafoning is founded on my knowledge
of America alone, for I am not yet acquainted with
the market of China. Of this I fhall be better in-
formed at my departure from Macao, and {hall be
* It would be proper to fend on board a few barrels of coals,
a forge, and a fmith, to work the bar iron into any fhape the In-
dians may déefire.
able
vould find a
een Nootka
fhould only
id be eafy to
ater number
ndant.
be dirty and
All probably
| fix or eight
large blue or
arter ; anda
ery fmall ex-
r of marine,
» exact, that
n hafte while
car a Compa-
the principal
flary to avoid
‘very rapid.
ofe who con-
tity of fkins,
with the na-
articles they
reat import.
itherto been
erce. The
y knowledge
uainted with
be better in-
and fhall be
barrels of coals,
y fhape the In-
able
SEA OTTER SKINS, 347
able to obtain every inftruétion neceffary, by the
time I leaye Kamtichatka *.
(Signed) : LA PéRovssz,
At fea, during the run from Monterey to Macao,
December, 1786.
a ee NS : Ed
Eftimate of the Otter and Beaver Skins, purchafed at
Port des Français, on the N. W. Coaft of America,
by the Bouffole and Aftrolabe frigates,
OTTERS.
The otter fkins were divided into three lots, viz.
Fars in fkins.
Furs on woollen cloth, or ponchos.
And paffe-poils, or very narrow ftrips.
The firft lot was divided into three qualities :
1ft, Virgin fkins, and thofe of which the hair is
clean, and not mixed.
adly, Thofe which area little damaged, but yet
fine,
3dly, Thofe of which the hair is mixed and dirty,
and which are only fit to be fulled, and made into
* The particulars which Captain Cook has given us concerning
the fur trade, and the enormous profit he acquired in his trial of
it, muft neceffarily have excited the cupidity of fhip owners and
merchants. But it was eafy to furefee, that a competitor in the
market would very greatly reduce their value in China, while, on
the other hand, the favages would increafe their demands, when
Europeans fhould fucceffively arrive in their countries, and endea-
vour to obtain a decided preference in the purchafe.
Since Cook’s laft voyage, the Englifh have made feveral expedi-
tions to the north-weft coaft of America ; the accounts of which
‘save been publifhed. Thofe of our readers who may defire to ob-
tas further information upon the fubjeét, may read Meares's voy-
age, ind that of Dixon, comparing them with what is faid by la
Pérôufe, and by Cook in his third voyage —French Editor.
felts
348 ON THE COMMERCE OF
felts by the hatter. It will be ufeful to bring a
great quantity of thefe home to France, in order to
make deeerel experiments upon them.
Thefe furs, whether in fkins, or on woollen cloth,
and thofe of the beaver, have been all reduced to
fquare feet, and valued, piece by piece, according to
their different qualities and clafles.
The paff-poils were forted according to their de-
frees of finencfs and colour, and valued very low,
according to the price of minevers in France.
The furs of the firft quality were divided into 11
feétions, and then valued at different prices, accord-
ing to their fizes.
The articles, forming each fubdivifion, have been
eftimated at three prices, according to the accounts
I have read and extracted from Coxe’s journal of the
Ruffian difcoveries, Capt. Cook’s voyages, and what
I learned myfelf at Monterey.
The firft price is the loweft, at which, according
to thefe obfervations, I think the fkins can be fold.
The fecond isthe medium price, according to the
acpannte the Spaniards at Monterey gave us of their
ales.
The third is eftimated by the account of Capt.
ook,
The firft fubdivifion, from the fmalleft fize, to
that of two feet inclufively, have been rated,
For the loweft price, at five piaftres per fquare
foot, making 30 piaftres for an entire fkin of fix
fquare feet, or three feet by two, which is one of
the largeft fizes.
For the Monterey price, at feven piaftres and a
half, making 45 piaftres the entire fkin.
For the price ftated by Cook, at 10 piaftres, mak-
ing 60 piaftres the fkin. This latter price appears
too high, and that which we muft demand, thovgh
we take lefs. | Re
1 LEA É 11S
to bring a
‘in Order to
olen cloth,
reduced to
according to
to their de-
d very low,
ince.
ded into 11
ces, accord-
, have been
he accounts
urnal of the
8, and what
1, According
an be fold.
rding to the
2 us of their
nt of Capt.
left. fize, to
ted,
Fa fquare
in of fix
h is one of
ftres and a
fires, mak-
rice appears
ind, thorgh
This
SEA OTTER SKINS, 349
This method has been purfued relative to all the
other fections, and generally for each different article
of this kind.
BEAVERS,
It will be feen, from the ftatement of the furs
exported by the Englifh from Hudfon’s: Bay to
Peterfburgh, and by the Ruffians. to Kiatcha, that
the beaver of Hudfon’s Bay is worth, at Kiatcha,
from feven to 20 roubles per fkin, (the rouble being
worth four livres, 10 fous of French money). This
loweft price of feven roubles makes, therefore, 91
livres 10 fous.
I have valued the beaver fkins according to their
common fize of 20 by 18 inches, or two and a half
fquare feet, at.
Half a piaftre for the loweft price per fquare foot,
gives fix or feven livres the fkin :
One piaftre for the fecond price, making 13 or
14 livres the fkin : |
Two piaftres for the third price, making from:26
to 30 livres the fkin.
- From thefe data, we derive the following calcu-
lations: 3231 furs, of all fizes.and qualities, which
we purchafed, are eftimated at the loweft at 41,063
piaftres 1-8th, or 221,740 livres, 17 fous, 6 deniers,
French money. At the mean price of Monterey;
63,586 piaftres $, or 343,365 livres, 15 fous, French
money. And laftly, at Capt. Cook’s price, 84,151
piaftres, or. 454,415 livres, 8 fous, French money.
EXTRACTS
850 CORRESPONDENCE OF
EXTRACTS:
From the Corre/pondence of Meff. de la Péroufe de
Langle, and Lamanon with the Minifter of Marine.
FROM M. DE LA PEROUSE.
Six, Monterey, 14th Sept. 1786.
OUR fhips have been received by the Spaniards
like thofe of their own nation, and there is no poffi-
ble affiftance which they have not been lavifh in pro-
viding for us. ‘The clergy at the head of the mif-
fions have fent us vaft quantities of every kind
of provifion, and, in return, I have prefented them
with a number of little articles for the Indians,
which were put on board at Breft for that purpofe,
and will be to them of the greateft utility.
You are already informed that Monterey is nat pro-
perly a colony, but only a poft of about twenty.
Spaniards, maintained by the king of Spain, for the
protection of the miffionaries, who labour with the
greateft furcefs in the converfion of the favages;
a fyftem that will never deferve to be reproached for
eruelties like thofe which ftained the laurels of Co-
lumbus, and difgraced the reign of Ifabella and Fer-
dinand.
Our bifcuit is a little damaged, but our corn, flour,
wine, &c. have kept fo well, as to exceed our moft
fanguine hopes, and have contributed not a little to
preferve our crews in good health. Our fhips are in
the beft condition, but are very bad failers.
FROM M. DE LA PÉROUSE.
SIR, Monterey, Sept. 19, 1786.
MY difpatches having to traverfe America-by land,
and pafs through the city of Mexico, I dare not fend
you by this conveyance cither the details of our
voyage,
+ PS pet Lit 1 ut a
a Péroufe de
of Marine.
Sept. 1786.
he Spaniards
re is no poffi-
lavifh in pro-
of the mif-
f every kind
efented them
the Indians,
that purpofe,
a is not pro-
bout twenty,
Spain, for the
our with the
the favages ;
proached for
urels of Co-
ella and Fer-
hr corn, flour,
eed our moft
nr fhips are in
prs.
. 19, 1786.
erica-by land,
are not fend
etails of our
voyage,
ot a little to |
M. DE LA PEROUSE: 351
voyage, the charts we have conftruéted, or the nume-
rous and accurate obfervations we have colleéted, to
enable us to give you the moft fatisfaétory accounts
of the traffick for fins, and the part which the Spa-
niards defign taking in it.
Their eyes are ever turned to this important brancli
of commerce, and the King has referved to himfelf
the right of purchafe in the prefdios of California.
The moft northern fettlement of the Spanith factories
furnifhes annually 10,000 otter fkins; and fhould
thefe continue to find an advantageous market at
China, it will be eafy for Spain to procure even
50,000, and thus deftroy the commerce of the Ruf-
fians with China.
They now begin to find fea otters on the weft
coaft of California, as low as 28° N. lat. in equal
abundance, but of an inferior quality to thofe fur-
ther to the northward.
On the coaft of America we have made difcoveries
that efcaped former navigators, and taken pofleffion
of a port well adapted for the eftablifhment of a fac-
tory, and perfectly defenfible by only 100 men againft
very confiderable forces.
Otters are fo plentiful there, that in a fortnight we
collected a thoufand fkins. Thefe will be fold at
China for the benefit of the failors, for our officers
and paffengers look for glory alone as the reward of
the fatigues and dangers of fuch a voyage.
That part of the coaft lying between 50° and 55°
of north lat. which was not feen by Cook, will alfo
form a very interefting part of our narrative. We
have indeed made important difcoveries, but the ac-
counts of them cannot be detailed in cyphers, and
you will therefore receive them from China by a
French fhip, together with the memoirs relative to the
political and fecret objects of my inftruétions con-
cerning the commerce that might be carried on upon
the coaft of America.
FROM
CORRESPONDENCE or
FROM. M. DE LA RÉROUSE.
Str, Monterey, 19th Sept. 1786.
I HAVE already had the honour to inform you,
that firictly following my inflructions, | have deemed
it neceflary to make ufe of the permiffion given me
to change my plan, and begin with the north-weft
coat of America. I may venture to fay my opera-
tions have been atteaded with the completeft fuccefs.
In the courfe of 14 months we have doubled Cape
Horn, and run to the extremity of America as far as
Mount St. Elias; we have explored this coaft with
the greateft care, and arrived at Monterey the 15th
of September. The orders of the King of Spain had
reached this place before us, and it would be impof-
fible, even in our own colonies, to meet with a better
reception. |
_ L'ought alfo to inform you, that we have put into
feveral iflands of the South-fea which had excited
curiofity, and have run on the parallel of the Sand-
wich Iflands, 500 leagues from eaft to weft, for the
purpofe of elucidating feveral important. points of ge-
ography. J anchored only 24 hours at the ifland of
Mowee, and pañlèd through a new channel which the
Englith had no opportunity of vifiting.
I fhall be at Kamtfchatka carly in the month of
Auguft, and at the Aleutian Iflands about the end
of the fame month, It will be proper to defer ex-
ploring thefe iflands till after I have been at Kamtf-
chatka, that I may know what the Rufñlians have left
undone, and thus be the better able to complete and
add fomething to their difcoveries.
From the Aleutian Iflands I fhall fail without lof-
ing a moment, for the fouthern bemifphere, to exc-
cute the orders I have received. No voyage, I may
venture to fay, was.ever undertaken on fo vait a
plan. We have already paficd a full year .under fail,
and
To Aa... 45
O0 = + Dm = =
h Sept. 1786.
inform you,
i have deemed
on given me
he north-weft
fay my opera-
pleteft fuccefs.
doubled Cape
crica as far as
his coaft with
erey the 15th
y of Spain had
uld be impof-
i with a better
|
have put into
h had excited
| of the Sand-
weft, for the
t points of ge-
i the ifland of
panel which the
the month of
about the end
x to defer ex-
een at Kamtf-
flians have left
» complete and
il without lof-
fphere, to exe-
voyage, I may
à on fo vatt a
ear .under fail,
and
M. DE LA PEROUSE. 253
and yet, during our fhort intervals of ftaying in port,
we have made very novel and interefting difcoverics.
You will learn with pleafure that to this hour not a
drop of Indian blood has been fpilt, nor one man fick
on board the Bouffole: and a fervant whom the Aftro-
labe has loft, died of a confumption, which he could
not have furvived to this time even in France. We
fhould be of all navigators the happieft but for one
extreme misfortune we have met with. That difaf-
ter I fhall fpare myfelf the pain of again relating
here, and intreat you to receive with kindnefs the
extract from my journal which I fend you; requeft-
ing at the fame time that a copy of it may be tranf-
mitted to the families of the officers who have fo un-
fortunately perifhed. On that fatal occafion I loft
the only relation I had in the navy. Ofall who have
failed with me, this young man feemed to poflefs the
greateft qualifications for his profeffion. He held in
my bofom the place of a fon, and never in my life
did I experience an affliction equal to his lofs. Mefr.
de la Bord, de Pierrevert, and de Flaflan, were alfo
officers of great merit.
This difafter obliged me to make ufe of the
remaining commiffion of Xeutenant de frégate, in
favour of M. de Broudou, my wife’s brother, who
embarked as a volunteer, and whofe conduct has
given me great fatisfaction. I have dated the com-
miffion the firft of Auguft, 1786. I have alfo ap-
pointed M. Darbaud, a young man of very diftin-
guifhed talents, to act as en/eigne.
All the officers, men of fcience, and artifts, enjo
the moft perfect health, and perform their duty with
the greateft punctuality.
CORRESPONDENCE OF
FROM M. DE LANGLE.
Sir, Monterey, Sept. 22, 1786.
I CAN add nothing to the account which M. de
la Péroufe will give you of our voyage, becaufe, fince
our departure from Breft, I have not loft fight of his
fhip for a fingle moment. Deftined to participate his
fate, I have fhared his misfortunes. Through excefs
of courage and humanity, Mefirs. La Borde, Mar.
chainville, Boutervilliers and Flaffan perifhed on the
13th July, 1786—ending their career of life at
the very moment when they were qualified to per-
form the moft difiinguifhed fervices. The two for-
mer in particular were animated with that zeal, per-
feverance, and fpirit of refearch fo neceflary in the
conduét of an expedition like ours, and yet wanted
not the prefence of mind and talent calculated to ex-
tricate them from fituations of the greateft difficulty
and cmbarraflment. Alas! In thefe I have loft two
friends whofe advice has often been ferviceable to me.
Misfortune, however, has not in the leaft relaxed the
zeal of the five remaining officers, who, on the con-
trary, have never been ditcouraged by the laborious
nature of their fervice, ever more difficult in harbour
than at fea. The good unccrftanding that reigns
among them, the lively interctt they take in the fuc-
cefs of our voyage, are the fureft protection of my
fhip; and the laudable fpirit of curiofity which ani-
mates their bofom, prevents them from befowing
one thought of premature anxicty on their return to
France.
M. de Monti is an excellent feaman, and a mode
of prudence, of forefight and of firmnefs.
M. de Vanjuas adds to theie qualifications a ftore
of knowledge, and an underfianding by no means
common.
M. Daigremont, who has acquired great experi-
encc
Sept. 22, 1766.
t which M. de
2, becaufe, fince
loft fight of his
o participate his
Through excefs
a Borde, Mar-
perifhed on the
reer of life at
ualified to per-
The two for-
1 that zeal, per-
neceffary in the
and yet wanted
calculated to ex-
reateft difficulty
. I have loft two
rviceable to me.
leaft relaxed the
‘ho, on the con-
by the laborious
icult in harbour
ling that reigns
take in the fuc-
protection of my
iofity which ani-
from befiowing
1 their return to
n, and a mode
ne{s.
fications a ftore
gœ by no mean
sd great experl-
ence
M, DE LANGLE. 255
ence in naval affairs, is courageous and enterprifing.
He fully anfwers the expectations generally formed of
a lively and diffipated youth. He is approaching
to maturity, which will foon render him capable of.
performing .diftinguifhed fervices, for he pofflefies
judgment and refolution.
M. de Blondela, a very patient, prudent, and in-
duftrious officer, is extremely well acquainted with
his profeffion. He employs his leifure time in con-
ftructing charts, and making very curious and pleaf-
ing defigns. M. de la Péroufe having appointed him
on the 13th July, to fill the place of capitaine de
brilot, 1 hope you will be pleafed to promote him
to that rank, which he fo well deferves.
M. de Laurifton, whom M. de la Péroufe has pro-
moted to the rank of en/eigne, is a perfon of diftin-
guifhed merit, has acquired a great knowledge of
fcamanfhip, and poflefles fuch indefatigable zcal for
aftronomical obfervations, that I rely implicitly on
him for every thing relating to that branch He our
duty. Equally inquifitive and ardent for difcovery
with his companions, he is no lefs indifferent than
them to his return to France.
I have alfo the greateft praife to beftow on the
friendly affiftance of M. de Lefleps, M. de la Marti-
nière, Father Receveur, and M. Dufrefne.
The lofs of four of the beft marines, and three ex-
cellent failors of my crew, has not produced any dif-
couragement among thereft; and confequently, after
the difafter of the 13th July, I promifed them a gra-
tuity of two months’ pay.
François Lamare, my boatfwain, is a man of great
merit, Should he continue to perfevere in his pre-
fent good conduct, I fhall give him, in the courfe
of the voyage, the warrant of fubfiftence (brevet d'en-
tretenu) which I have received for him.
My boatfwain certainly deferves this reward; but
finding it would probably excite jealoufy, I have
Aa2 thought
256 CORRESPONDENCE UF
thought it necefläry to promife Mathurin Léon, my
mafter, Robert-Marie le Gal, my chicf carpenter,
and Jean-François Paul, my chief caulker, moft pref-
fingly to folicit from you permiffion to fix the date
of their fubfiftence. And I muft beg you to acce-
lerate that- of Jean Groffet, who, though younger
than them, poffeffes no lefs capacity and intelli-
gence. To thefe promifes I am indebted perhaps for
the good underftanding that reigns on board my fhip;
and to the good example of thefe men may be attri-
buted the gaiety and willingnefs that prevails among
the crew.
Gaulin, capitaine d'armes, who performs the duty of
gunner, alfo deferves to be diftinguifhed ; but the
means I poflefs of augmenting his pay, which at pre-
fent is very moderate, will be a fufficient recom-
pence.
The rate of the time-keeper, No. 18, has been af-
tonifhingly regular, and, in confequence, I believe
the longitude of all the places we have vifited fince
our departure from La Conception, are determined
with the moft perfect exactnefs,
The rate of the time-kceper, No. 27, though not
fo regular as the former, is yet as much fo as might
be expected, and what M. Berthoud pronounced it
would be. In determjning the longitude by the dif-
tance between the fun and moon, we conftantly pre-
fer the reflective circles, invented by M. de Borda*,
to fextants. There has always been fo great a con-
* This inftrument was originally invented by Tobias Meyer,
a celebrated aftronomer of Gottingen, but much improved by the
Chevalier de Borda, and M. J. H. de Magellan. It was ufed by
the French in their part of the operation for determining the diffe-
rence between the meridians of Parisand Greenwich. ‘The circu-
lar rim is divided into 720 degrees, each degree into three equal
parts, and the divifion carried to minutes by means of the index
fcale, as in other inftruments. It is intended to abviate the errors
arifing from the fextant, and particularly the inaccuracies of the di-
yifion on the limb.— Zran/lator,
| formity
rin Léon, my
icf carpenter,
cer, moft pref-
D fix the date
you to acce-
pugh younger
y and intelli-
ed perhaps for
board my fhip;
may be attri-
revails among
ms the duty of
fhed ; but the
which at pre-
ficient recom-
3, has been af-
nce, I believe
ve vifited fince
ire determined
7, though not
ch fo as might
pronounced it
ude by the dif-
conftantly pre-
M. de Borda*,
O great a con-
y Tobias Meyer,
h improved by the
It was ufed by
rmining the diffe-
wich. The circu-
> into three equal
means of the index
obviate the errors
ccuracies of the di-
formity
M. DE LANGLE. 259
formity in the refults obtained by Mefis. de Vauju-
as, de Laurifton and myfelf, from thefe inftruments,
that excepting a few defects in the execution of
them, I think them the moft perfect of any for deter-
mining longitudes at fea. Father Receveur and four
of my mafter’s mates, are alfo well inftructed in
taking thefe obfervations.
Among the number of the laft, is one Broffard ;
I have his inftruction at heart, and do not wifh him
to be removed from his prefent rank ’till our return
to the Ifle of France, when I think he will be pre-
pared to perform the duty of a lieutenant. He is at
prefent the mafter’s firft mate ; but his underftanding
and integrity intereft me in his behalf, and make.me
defirous of raifing him from that humble ftation in
which he was born, fo much below what his conduct
and behaviour jufily merit.
Don Bertrand Jofeph Martinez, who commanded
the Spanifh frigate La Princefa, from San-Blas, who
was anchored in the Bay of Monterey before our ar-
rival here, anticipated our wants with indefatigable
zeal, and rendered us every fervice in his power.
He defired me to requeft you torecommend him to the
minifier of his country; and I fhould be happy to have
any opportunity of contributing to his promotion.
I leave this place without having one man fick on
board ; but the cares of M. Levaux, my furgeon, were
unable to fave the fervant of M. de Vaujuas, who
left Breft with a confumption, which terminated his
days on the 11th of Auguft, 1786. The buck-wheat
as well as the other fort taken on board at Breft, are
in perfect prefervation. Some mills we have conftruct-
ed, and which are worked by two men, when there
is little wind, fupply each twenty pounds weight
of meal an hour. To thefe mills we have adapted
ftones of the kind ufcd by M. de Suffren in his laft
voyage. I left one of them with the monks at the
miffion of Monterey.
Aa3 FROM
CORRESPONDENCE OF
FROM M. DE LAMANON.
SIR, In the Chinefe Seas, \ft Jan. 1787.
AFTER a voyage of 10,000 leagues, I could with
to tranfmit you fome account of our difcoveries in
natural hiftory, and of my own individual labours,
But the fubjects of which I am to treat, are fo linked
together, it would be neceflary to fend you whole
volumes. On my part, nothing has been neglected
to concur in your defigns. My inquiries have
reached from the fand, which the lead brings from
the bottom of the ocean, to every mountain I have
been able to afcend. I have made collections and
defcriptions of fifh, fhells, and infects, and of ani-
mals, to the number of which already known, I
hope confiderably to add, and thus to increafe our
knowledge of animated beings. The natural hiftory
of the fea, of the earth, of the atmofphere, alter-
nately engage my attention. If we are not the firft
circumnavigators whofe object has been the improve-
ment of fcience, at leaft the Englifh will now no lon-
ger enjoy alone the honourable privilege of thus la-
bouring for the general good of mankind. It only
remained for you, Sir, after having concluded an ad-
vantageous peace with that nation, to make France
its rival in the glory of being ufeful to all man-
kind.
At the commencement of the laft century* our
neighbours, led by avarice in fearch of gold, dif-
covered a new world. In the prefent age, France
has determined, by accurate meafurements, the
figure and dimenfiotis of the earth. . The Englith
have deftroyed the chimera of a north-weft paflage,
* America was difcovered a century before this time. Columbus
returned from thedifcovery of Hifpaniola, to the Port of-Palos, on
the 15th March, 1493. The continent of America was difcovered
foon after that period.— Translator.
which
ef =.= f= =
lon eee bad (D = PM, em 5 1
an. 1787.
could wifh
fcoveries in
al labours.
re fo linked
you whole
n neglected
uiries have
brings from
tain I have
lections and
and of ani-
known, I
ncreafe our
ural hiftory
here, alter-
not the firft
he improve-
10ow no lon-
of thus la-
d. It only
ided an ad-
ake France
o all man-
ntury* our
gold, dif-
ge, France
nents, the
he Englith
eft paflage,
e. Columbus
rt of Palos, on
vas difcovered
which
M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 259
which they had themfelves before contributed to fup-
ort, and have commenced that general inveftigation
of the globe, which, under your aufpices, we are
now continuing, and future ages will, perhaps, one
day complete. But the great diftinétion by which
this voyage will be ever fignalized, and the French
nation be rendered glorious in the eyes of the prefent
age, of philofophers, and of all pofterity, is that we
have vifited nations reputed barbarous, without fhed-
ding a drop of blood. Our voyage, it is true, is
not yet finifhed; but I know the fentiments of our
commander, and how well his views are feconded.
In a moment of difturbance and danger, occafioned
by miftake, “ Take your mufquets,” faid he, “ but
do not charge them ;” and all was pacified by his pru-
dence. To the merit of a fkilful navigator, and an
able warrior, M. de la Péroufe adds another much
nearer to his heart, that of being, in the remoteft
regions of the globe, a worthy reprefentative of the
virtues and humanity of his nation. Our voyage
will prove to the whole world that Frenchmen are
virtuous, and that Man, in a ftate of nature, is not
a favage.
I have extracted from my journals a few memoirs,
addreffed to the Academy of Sciences ; and I intreat
you, Sir, to tranfmit them to M. de Condorcet,
perpetual fecretary to that body, with whom I cor-
refpond. At the fame time I have taken the liberty
of enclofing a few letters in your cover, perfuaded
that by this means they will arrive with greater cer-
tainty.
FROM M. DE LA PEROUSE.
SIR, Macao, January 8, 1787.
ALL the charts Inow fend you have been con-
fruéted by M. Bernizet, a young man of great pe
an
260 CORRESPONDENCE OF
and accuracy. Though all the officers have co.
operated in the aftronomical obfervations, it is but
juft, they fhould go under the name of M. Dagelet,
who had the direétion of them. Befides, it is not
fufficient they deferve, it is neceflary they fhould
obtain the confidence of navigators; and for that
purpofe the name of a profeflional aftronomer, and a
member of the Academy of Sciences, are beft calcu-
lated to attain that end.
M. Dagelet, and all the officers, have alfo taken
bearings ; but M. Bernizet has been chiefly occupied
in that operation, without interruption. He has re-
giftered and compared them, rejecting fuch as did
not form a connection ; and therefore I may con-
fider all the trigonometrical operations as juftly be-
longing to this geographer, whofe talents are far
beyond the opinion entertained of him when he
came on board. He is perfectly well acquainted
with every branch of the mathematicks neceflary for
his profeflion ; paints, draws and takes plans with
the greateft facility. I am convinced his talents
would render him extremely ufeful to a general, by
land, whom he might ferve in character of aid-de-
camp; he might :lfo be highly ufeful in the navy,
and it would be a great fatisfaétion to me to procure
him a place on his return.
The Aftrolabe has, on all occafions, made the
fame obfervations, both aftronomical and trigonome-
trical, as the Bouflole. M. de Langle himfelf ob-
ferved the diftances and horary angles, with Meflis.
de Vaujuas and de Laurifton, while he had in his
etat-major, M. de Blondela, lieutenant de frégate,
who accurately performed precifely the fame office as
M. Bernizet. I would fend you the charts of the
Aftrolabe, did I not find, on comparing them with
ours, fo great a refemblance that it would be ufelefs;
but the identity of the refults given by the two fhips,
is a proof of the accuracy of our operations. a
ave
cers have co.
ions, it is but
bof M. Dagelet,
fides, it is not
y they fhould
; and for that
onomer, and a
are beft calcu-
ave alfo taken
liefly occupied
- He has re-
g fuch as did
re I may con-
s as juftly be-
alents are far
im when he
ll acquainted
s neccflary for
es plans with
d his talents
) a general, by
‘ter of aid-de-
in the navy,
me to procure
ns, made the
id trigonome-
le himfelf ob-
with Meflis,
e had in his
it de frégate,
fame office as
charts of the
g them with
Id be ufelefs;
the two fhips,
ions.
I have
M. DE LA PEROUSE, 261
I have the honour to fend you two drawings by
M. de Blondela, not inferior to any of the four by
M. Duché. The latter reprefents the drefs and ap-
pearance of different nations with the greateft accu-
racy. His drawing of Eafter Ifland gives a much
truer idea of its monuments than the engraving of
Mr. Hodges; and as they appear to have excited
great curiofity, I defired M. Bernizet to draw up an
exact plan of them. I have alfo, in my narrative,
endeavoured to complete the picture of thefe ifland-
ers, who will be little vifited by Europeans, becaufe
their country affords no fupplies for navigators. The
three other drawings, by M. Duché, are alfo very
correct, but they are only a fimall fpecimen of his
ane he has twenty others remaining in his
port folio. | |
Young M. Prevoft has drawn all the birds, fifhes,
and fhells, and [thought it a favour due to his zea-
lous exertions, to fend you three of his drawings of
birds.
The Spanifh charts of the great Pacific Ocean,
which I have the honour to fend you, and on which
I have marked my track from Monterey to China, is
deteftable. I have only added it to the others, to
prove that the knowledge of this vafi fea has been
ttationary for thefe two centuries, arifing from the
galleons from Manilla conftantly purfuing the fame
track, without deviating from it fo much as: ten
leagues.
FROM M. DE LA PEROUSE.
Sir, Macao, Jun. 3d, 1787.
I HAVE the honour to fend you the narrative of
my voyage, complete as far as Macao, with tables of
our daily courfe. To thefe I have added plans of the
coafis
362 CORRESPONDENCE OF
coafts along which we ranged, of Port des Français,
of which we have taken pofleflion, of the various
iflands we have vifited, of fe Necker, and la Baffe des
Frégates Françaifes, where we experienced fo much
danger, and I have marked the track of the two fhips
on the general chart, accompanying this difpatch. It
pañles over the pretended fituation of feveral iflands,
which have no exiftence, and necdlefsly occupy
places on maps, while in the correfponding parts of
the earth there is no land.
Our chart of the north-weft coaft of America, is
certainly the mofl accurate that has yet been con-
ftruéted, and leaves nothing to be added but minute
details, which mufi be the work of time, and a long
courfe of navigation.
We have furveyed the entrance of the archipelago
of St. Lazarus, if it can fill retain that name, and
determined its true pofition in latitude and longi-
tude, as well as its width from eaft to weft, and 20
leagues of its depth to the northward. The feafon,
already far advanced, the fhortnefs of the. days, and
the ultimate plan of my voyage did not permit me to
penetrate further into this labyrinth ; for which, two
or three months would have been requifite, on ac-
count of the precautions neceflary in fuch furveys,
the refult of which may gratify curiofity, but can
never be interefting to navigation, nor of any utility
to France. I fhould not, however, have hefitated to
complete this furvey, had I arrived at the entrance of
the archipelago in the month of June; but at the
end of Augutt, on the eve of the equinox, with
nights of twelve hours, and almoft continual fogs,
the difficulties of the enterprize would doubtlef
have been infurmountable, and without affording any
advantage to the fcience of geography, I fhould have
endangered the future fuccefs of my voyage.
You will remark, with fatisfaélion, that out of
nearly 18 months fince our departure, we have pafled
15 at
t des Français,
of the various
nd la Baffe des
need fo much
of the two fhips
s difpatch. It
feveral iflands,
lefsly occupy
nding parts of
of America, is
yet been con-
ed but minute
me, and a long
the archipelago
hat name, and
ide and longi-
» weft, and 20
|. The feafon,
the. days, and
bt permit me to
for which, two
quifite, on ac-
fuch furveys,
ofity, but can
r of any utility
ve hefitated to
he entrance of
e; but at the
equinox, with
ontinual fogs,
buld doubtlefs
t affording any
, I fhould have
oyage.
, that out of
we have pafled
15 at
M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 363
15 at fea, and only three in the different ports of our
defination. Our care and attention have been fo
confiantly fuccefsful, that we have had neither fick-
nef nor feurvy among us. But though, at the mo-
ment I have the honour of writing, we have traverfed
over a diflance of 10,000 leagues, we have not yet
completed a third part of our voyage, and,I dare not
duter myfelf with the expectation of equal good for-
tune, during the reft of my courfe, if indeed we can
ever call ourfelves fortunate, after the terrible difafter
that befel us at Port des Français, and of which I fent
you an account from Monterey. Since all my pre-
caution could not prevent this ftroke of misfortune,
itis but too clearly proved, that all attempts are in
vain to avoid our deftined fate.
Ihave been fcrupuloufly attentive not to change
the names given by Captain Cook to the different
capes he furveyed ; but it will not efcape you, that as
we examined the coaft of America much more clofely
than that celebrated navigator, we have been au-
thorifed in giving names to ports, bays, iflands, and
entrances, which he never fuppofed even to exift ;
and cuftom permits me to felect thofe appellations
from perfons whofe names being engraved on my
heart, ever prefent themfelves to my recollection
with the livelieft pleafure.
It is my ardent wifh, Sir, that your occupations
may not prevent you from running over the different
chapters of my narrative, that you may judge with
what ftriétnefs I have endeavoured to obey every
article of my inftructions. I have vifited Eafter
Mand, the pretended place of iflands eaftward of the
Sandwich Ifles, which, however, have no exiftence ;
the ifland of Mowec, one of the Sandwich Ifles, on
which Captain Cook did not land, and the north-
weft coaft of America from Mount St. Elias to Noot-
ka: but from Nootka to Monterey, I have only fur-
veyed
364 CORRESPONDENCE OF
veyed the points which Captain Cook was not abje
to lay down, and were therefore dotted on the charts,
Concerning the Spanifh fettlements, I have pro.
cured the information required of me in my private
inftruCtions; and have the honour herewith, to tranf.
mit you a paper on that fubject.
I have traverfed the great Pacific Ocean on a pa-
rallel one hundred and fixty leagucs diftant from that
of other navigators ; I have difcovered ?I/le Necker,
and la Baffe des Frégates Frangaifes ; by my track |
have proved that the iflands of Gorta, Deferta la
Mira, and Garden Ifland* have no exiftence ; and
I have vifited, according to my inftruétions, one of
the iflands to the northward of the Marianas, whence
I am now arrived in China.
In the beginning of the feafon I fhall fet fail to
navigate between the coaft of this empire, of Corea,
of Tartary, and the ifles of Japan and the Kuriles. |
fhall then put into Kamtfchatka, and on ieaving that
port fhall vifit the Aleutian Iflands, and thofe laid
down to the eaftward of Japan, of which, however,
the exiftence is more than doubtful.
It will afterwards only remain for me to fail to-
wards the fouthern hemifphere, not forgetting to the
northward of the line the Caroline Iflands, which I
am enjoined to vifit. It is only from Kamttfchatka
that it will be poffible for me to inform you of the
further plan of my voyage, becaufe I cannot com-
pletely determine it till I know with certitude the
precife time of my quitting the roads of Siberia ; and
as yet I am ignorant of the time I thall be obliged to
confume in my navigation along the coaft of Tartary.
The fouth-weft monfoon, which is met with to the
fouthward of the line at the beginning of Novem-
ber, will not permit me to indulge, et prefent, in
calculations which the leaft delay may render nuga-
* Vide Volume !. Page 242,——French Editor.
tory ;
OF
ook was not able
ted on the charts.
rents, I have pro.
me in my private
rerewith, to tranf-
c Ocean on a pa.
s diftant from that
red ?’Ifle Necker,
5 by my track |
sorta, Deferta Ja
10 exiftence ; and
ftructions, one of
Marianas, whence
I fhall fet fail to
empire, of Corea,
d the Kuriles. |
nd on ieaving that
s, and thofe laid
which, however,
wr me to fail to.
forgetting to the
Iflands, which I
rom Kamtfchatka
form you of the
e I cannot con-
ith certitude the
ls of Siberia ; and
hall be obliged to
e coaft of Tartary.
} met with to the
ning of Novem-
re, at prefent, in
nay render nuga-
M. DE LA MABRTINIERE. 365
torys but if I forefce a poffiblility of paffing through
Endeavour Strait before the commencement of this
monfoon, my firft courfe will be round New Hol-
land. If not I fhall begin with Cook’s Bay, in New
Zealand, the fouthern part of New Caledonia, and
the Arfacides and Caroline Iflands; then paffing
through the Moluccas with the north-eaft monfoon,
] fhall furvey New Holland, whence I fhall proceed
to the Ifle of France.
However vaft this plan, it does not exceed the
geal of any one engaged in this expédition. The
greateft difficulty is to complete the work within four
years, and perhaps it will be impoffible to make our
(hips, our rigging, and our provifion laft fo long.
Whatever may be the event, I fhall make every effort
to obey my inftruétions moft firiétly. Yet I fhall be
able to fpend but a fhort time in the different places
where we touch, and this long continuance at fea
will not be very agreeable either to the botanifts or
mineralogifts, who on fhore alone can find opportu-
nities for the exercife of their fkill in the fciences they
cultivate. |
FROM M. DE LA MARTINIERE.
Macao, Jan. 9, 1787.
“ WE have now completed nearly half our voyage,
after having touched fucceflively at Madeira, Tene-
riff, St. Catherine in Brazil, la Conception in Chili,
Fafter Ifland, the Sandwich Iflands, the north-wett
coaft of America, and Monterey in California.”
Here M. de Ja Martiniére defcribes the plants he
found in the different places at which they touched.
Among thofe he obferved in the ifland of Madeira,
he mentions the dracena draco.
“ It is become,” he fays, “ very rare;” and adds,
“ the idea we have of this plant from the miferable
famples we cultivate in our green-houfes, falls great-
ly
366 CORRESPONDENCE OF
ly below that we receive by fecing it in its native
country. Ihave found three, in particular, whofe
trunks were fix or feven feet high, and four and à
half or five feet in diameter. The principal branches,
to the number of twelve or fifteen, are as large as
a man’s body, and dividing themfelves always into
two, and fometimes, though rarely, into three, tower
upwards rather obliquely, to the height of forty o
fifty feet, including the feven feet of the trunk,
The leaves occupy only the extremity of the branches,
where they are difpofed alternately, and form a cluf.
ter. This tree delights the eye with the moft perfect
regularity of form, and has the appearance of being
trimmed every day by the hand of the gardener.”
From the ifland of Medeira our navigators pafled
to that of Teneriff, and M. de la Martinière obterved
between the port of Orotava and the laft cone of the
peak of Teneriff, five different fpecies of plants.
‘ I fhould be tempted to believe,” he fays, “ this
difference is only owing to the greater or lefs dif-
compofition of the bafaltes, which neceflarily be-
come vegetative earth ; confequently we are not fur-
prifed to fee the plain of Orotava covered with vines
and various fruit trees, becaufe the rains and melted
fnow carry down earth of the fincit kind, and the bef
adapted to vegetation.”
_ * Befides feveral plants natural to this ifland, and
of which the celebrated Mafiin has given an exact
defcription, we find the fhrub called fpartium fupra-
nulium, which is very well defcribed in the fupple-
ment to Linnæus. ‘This is the laft fhrub that grows
toward the higheft elevation of this great mountain. It
vegetates, bowever, with fuch ftrength, that fome are
not unfrequently met with, whofe branches fpread to
near cighty feet in circumference, and rife feven or
eight feet high. It bears an immenfe quantity of
flowers, which are probably very attractive to the
bees, though at a very confiderable height for fuch
feeble
it in its native
articular, whofe
and four and à
ncipal branches,
, are as large as
ves always into
nto three, tower
ight of forty or
; of the trunk,
of the branches,
nd form a cluf.
the moft perfect
arance of being
e gardener.”
avigators pafled
tinière obferved
laft cone of the
of plants.
he fays, “ this
ater or lefs dif-
neceflarily be-
r we are not fur-
ered with vines
ins and melted
nd, and the beft
this ifland, and
given an exact
fpartium fupra-
lin the fupple-
hrub that grows
sat mountain. It
h, that fome are
inches fpread to
1d rife feven or
nfe quantity of
ttractive to the
height for fuch
feeble
M. DE LE MARTINIERE. 367
feeble animals to reach. I was led to this conjecture
by finding, in the crater of this famous peak, feveral
vents, in the mouths of which were feen fmall quan-
tities of bees half confumed. ‘They were probably
fuffocated by the fulphureous vapours from the vent,
after being attracted thither by the gentle warmth
this apparent afylum offered againft the cold and im-
petuofity of the winds, that furprized them at fo great
a diftance from their little homes.
“ Our refpiration was here by no means difficult,
except when we were expofed to the immediate ac-
tion of the fulphureous vapours, difengaged from the
crater by a great number of vents, at the bottom of
which we obferved a great quantity of fulphur, in
needles and very beautiful chryftals. Volatile alkali
appeared to poflefs its ordinary ftrength there. In
our defcent from the peak, we took the road leading
to the fmall town of Gouima; in confequence of
which I had the pleafure of feeing many other fmall
volcanos, and feveral {mall fhrubs I had not found in
any other part of the ifland, fuch as the cy/yus pro-
liferus, ciflus monfpetienfis, ciflus villofus, erica arborea,
and the pinus teda, in confiderable quantities.”
On the 30th of Auguft our navigators quitted this
ifland. ‘Their next port was in the ifland of Saint
Catharine, on the coaft of Brazil. ‘This place pre-
fents a vaft field for every refearch of natural hiftory ;
but the rains that prevailed during the ftay of M. de
la Martinière prevented his devoting himfelf to it fo
much as he withed. More fortunate at Chili, where
M. Dombay made a long refidence, greatly to the
advantage of the feience of botany; M. de la Marti-
niere, being then unacquainted with the labours that
learned man had there purfued, applied himfelf, like
the former, to correct the errors which Father Feuil-
lée has committed in his Z##oire Medicinale des
Plantes. However, in recording thefe crrors, M. de
la Martinière confefles the work of that prieft has
great
368 CORRESPONDENCE OF
great merit, and befpeaks him a man of great infor.
mation. On the fubject of the id, a tree whofe
fhade, according to Father Feuillée and other bota-
nifts, produces involuntary fleep, and occafions an
infupportable itching, M, de la Martinière exprefies
himfelf thus :
“ The account he has left of the pernicious quali-
ty of the Adi (vol. iii. page 33, tab. 33) deferves, I
think, fome reftrictions, according to my experience,
Being one day on an excurfion, accompanied by one
of our foldicrs, we were joined by two Spanifh pea-
fants, who took pleafure in following us, and telling us
the names of the places and different plants we met
with.” Coming to feveral ici, which fhaded the road
we were paffing, “ There,” faid I, pointing to it,
“is the ich; and they immediately confirmed me,
by giving it the fame appellation. I then made figns
to them that it was dangerous to touch; when one
of them, to undeceive me, gathered a handful of
the leaves, and chewed them in his mouth for a very
long time, till they were quite reduced to fmall frag-
ments. However, he fignified to me, that if I flept
under the tree, I fhould feel an itching all over my
body, and be obliged io fcratch myfelf; an ation he
imitated with the greater facility, as from their un-
cleanlinefs it forms a part of their conftant occupation.
Encouraged, therefore, by his example, we gathered
a handful of the fruit at the ends of the branches, from
which neither of us experienced any bad effect. It
is therefore poffible that this quality of the tree may
be owing to a fpecies of extremely fmall reddith in-
fect I obferved on it; but this is given merely as à
conjecture.
of great infor.
a tree whofe
id other bota-
- occafions an
rière exprefles
rnicious quali-
3) deferves, I
ny experience,
panied by one
> Spanifh pea-
, and telling us
plants we met
haded the road
pointing to it,
confirmed me,
hen made figns
ch; when one
| a handful of
outh for a very
d to fmall frag-
that if I flept
g all over my
f; an aéion he
rom their un-
ant occupation.
e, we gathered
branches, from
bad effet. It
f the tree may
all reddifh in-
ren merely as à
FROM
M. DE LA PÉROUSE, 369
FROM M, DE LA PÉROUSE.
SIR, Macao, 1814 Jan, 1787.
À particular account of all the officers and
paflengers of the divifion is due, to you; and, as I
have much to fay to their credit, it is a duty I fhall
perform with no finall fatisfaétion to myfelf.
M. de Langle is an excellent officer, who with
great talents in his profeffion combines a firm and
unfhaken character. His exactitude in following me
has been fo great, that we have never been out of
hail, except when I ordered him to keep at a dif-
tance, and make fail a-head, his fhip: being a much
better failer than mine. |
The return of M. Monge has been no injury to
theaftronomical obfervations on board the Aftrolabe,
for M. de Langle is equally as good a naval aftrono-
mer as the profeflor. He has been perfectly well fe-
conded by M. de Vaujuas, a well-informed officer,
and has trained to thefe obfervations M. de Laurif-
ton, who is in all refpects an accomplifhed young
man, as well in regard to information as in his per-
fonal character, zeal, and attachment to the fervice. :
Ihave authorized M. de Langle to inform you
himfelf of his opinion regarding the talents, charac-
ter, and conduct of each of his officers and paffen-
gers, I know him to be incapable of prejudice or
partiality, and you will learn the truth from him with-
out difguite.
M. de Clonard, my fecond captain, is an officer
of great merit, who, in addition to all the talents of
his profeffion, poffeflés a character of punctuality,
zeal, honour, and love of glory, which render him,
in my eyes, one of the moft valuable men with whom
Thave ever been acquainted. In conformity with
your orders, I gave him his commiilion of capitaine
de vaiffeau on the 1fi January, 1787, to take his fe-
Vox. II. Bb niority
370 CORRESPONDENCE OF
niority from that date, and rank with other captains,
as mentioned in the letter you did me the honour
to write me from Verfailles, the 23d June, 1785.
M. Boutin is full of intelligence and talents; his
activity is indefatigable, ‘and he poffeffes a calm firm-
hefs in the ‘hour of danger that exceeds ‘every pane-
gyric. ‘Lo'this‘quality I owe the ptefervation of the
jolly-boat, which pañfed through the breakers of Port
des Francais, on that fatal day when our unfortunate
companions were loft. On the fame day I fhould
have made ‘ufe of the power you have giver me, by
your letter dated 23d June, of antedating or poft-
poning the favours Of his Majefty. A recompence
Was ‘certainly ‘die to an ‘officer to whom TI ain in-
debted for the prefcrvation of ‘fix men, and who had
himfelf juft ‘efcaped from fuch'imminent danger. But
our affliétion was fo great, that I did not think of
conferring thet favour upon ‘him till the 1ft of Ja-
nuaty, 1787, that being the time fixed for the date of
a fimilar favour to M. ‘de Vaujuas. I have, there-
fore, -advanced M. Boutin’s promotion only fix
nionths.
"Et is painful to me to recall to mind the lofs we
have feffered; while T have 'the honour to reprefent
to you that the death of fix officcrs renders the
gréater’part of the honours you were pleafed to con-
fer on thofe-of our divifion ufelefs.
Mefits. Colinet, Saint Céran, Darbaud, Mouton,
and Broudou, to whom T have given'the two commif-
fions of leutenant de frégate, are zealous and active,
and perform their duty perfectly well. Their fer-
vices are very frequently required, every boat being
conftantly cotimanded by an officer. The number
of them would even have been infufficient without
the two promotions I conferred.
other captains,
ne the honour
une, 1785.
id talents; his
és a calm firm-
‘ds ‘every pane-
fervation of the
teakers ‘of Port
ur unfortunate
e day I thould
é given me, by
dating or poft-
A recompence
yhom T am in-
n, and who had
nt danger. But
d not think of
‘the 1ftof Ja-
d for the date of
I have, there-
tion only fix
d the lofs we
ur to reprefent
rs renders the
pleafed to con-
baud, Mouton,
he two commif-
ous and active,
ll. Their fer-
ery boat being
The number
ficient without
FROM
M. DE LANGLE, 371
FROM M. DE LANGLE,
Sir, 4 Macao, 11th January, 1787.
THE Aftrolabe’s voyage has been very fuccefsful
during her paffage from Monterey to Macao. I have
not loft a fingle man, nor even had one fick ; and
the fhip will be in a ftate to continue the voyage
when her rigging and fails have been repaired.
The ardour and alacrity of my crew have notre.
laxed for a fingle inftant; and we fhall continue,
with the greateft pleafure, to contribute to the fuc-
cefs of the expedition of M. de la Péroufe.
The firmnefs, good fenfe and forefight of M. de
Monti, contribute to the happinefs of all his affo-
ciates, and his talents infpire me with the greateft
confidence.
In the courfe of my fervice, I have never met
with a naval officer equally accomplifhed with M. de
Vaujuas.
M. Daigremont has great judgment and firmnefs
of mind. tle is engaged in the aftronomical obfer-
vations, and will purfue them with great fuccefs.
M. de Blondela is an excellent officer, of moft ex-
emplary good fenfe and firmnefs. He employs his
leifure in drawing plans of the different roads, which
he executes with great tatte and accuracy.
The ardour of M. de Laurifton, in the purfuit of
every kind of knowledge has never relaxed. He is
at prefent an excellent officer, and promifes fair to
make great progrefs in aftronomy. I rely on him
for every thing relative to that feiencc.
It is to the talents of thefe five officers, and the
harmony that reigns among them, that I owe the
firict regularity with which the Aftrolabe has con-
fiantly kept in fight of the Bouflole, even during the
night, and when enveloped in fogs. They take fo
much intereft in the fafety and prefervation of the
Bb 2 fhip,
372 CORRESPONDENCE OF
fhip, and the fuccefs of the voyage, that I find my.
{elf at prefent lefs occupied than any of them.
I fhould be completely happy if they may be per.
mitted to receive thofe honours at the Ifle of France,
to which you juftly expected they would become en-
titled, on their return.
M. de Vaujuas, who was at the head of the en.
Jeignes when you made him lieutenant, and. who was
not bleffed with a patrimony, has, I think, juft pre.
tenfions to the penfion of 800 livres granted to the
late M. d’Efcures.
M. de Laurifton alfo deferves, I think, to rank
among the enfeignes, from the 13th July, 1786,
the period at which M. de la Péroufe gave him the
commiffion.
I cannot fufficiently praife the amenity of difpofi-
tion and other good qualities of M. de Leffeps,
Father Receveur performs his functions with great
propriety, and is poflefled of good fenfe, joined with
an agreeable difpofition. At fea he is occupied in
meteorological and aftronomical obfervations; and in
harbour, with every thing relative to natural hif-
tory.
M. de la Martinière applics to botany with great
ardour.
- M. Dufrefne has been very ufeful by his purchafes
of fea otter fkins, and has taken great care of their
prefervation and fale: as he is defirous of returning
to France, and I confider him no longer ufeful to
us, M. de la Péroufe has granted him permiffion to
depart.
I have great encomiums to befiow on M. Lavaux,
my chief furgeon, and M. Guillou, his mate, who
have contributed by their care to the good health of
my fhip’s company. At prefent they have fortu-
nately much leifure, which they employ, when in
port, in making obfervations in natural hiftory and
botany, and collections for the King's ns |
| ave
PE ot RL te Mes CT
ed
at I find my.
of them.
y may be per-
Ifle of France,
id become en-
ad of the en.
and who was
ink, juft pre-
pranted to the
hink, to rank
July, 1786,
gave him the
nity of difpofi-
Leffeps.
ons with great
>, joined with
is occupied in
ations; and in
o natural hif-
ny with great
y his purchafes
care of their
of returning
nger ufeful to
permiffion to
n M. Lavaux,
is mate, who
ood health of
y have fortu-
loy, when in
| hiftory and
cabinet.
I have
M. DE LA PEROUSE. 373
I have to entreat your favour in behalf of M.
Broflard, who, after ferving forty months as a volun-
teer, on board feveral fhips, embarked in the Aftrolabe
as affiftant mafter’s mate. He has done the duty of firft
mafter’s mate, from the 3d July, 1786, with a great
deal of zeal and intelligence. Tentreat you to fend
him, at the Ifle of France, a lieutenant’s commiffion.
Permit me to recommend to you my mafter, gun-
ner, carpenter, fail-maker, and caulker. They are
old fervants, who have afforded proofs of their abi-
lity and fteadinefs, and contributed much to the
gaicty that reigns on board my fhip, and the har-
mony that prevails among every individual. I be-
feech you to grant them their fubfiftence. I do not
fpeak of my boatfwain, becaufe I fhall give him his
warrant of fubfiftence, if he continues to conduct
himfelf with as much fteadinefs and propriety as he
has hitherte fhewn.
M. de Bellegarde has becn removed from the Mar-
quis de Caftries, a {hip armed en flûte, to the Aftro-
labe. He is a perfon of whom M. de Richery has
fpoken with great praife. He is garde de la marine.
FROM M. DE LA PEROUSE.
Sir, Macao, 2d February, 1787.
I HAVE often occupied your attention with our
furs; I even added they were fold ; I had reafon to
believe fo, for the bargain was concluded ; but the
difficulties made by the purehafers at the time of de-
livery, have broken off the contract. Fora moment,
I propofed to bring them home to France, where I
was perfuaded they would find a better and inore
certain market than at China. But reflecting that
my return to Europe is yet far diftant, I accepted the
obliging offer of M. Elitockenfirom, Director of the
Swedifh Eaft-India Company, who has taken charge
Bb3 of
374 CORRESPONDENCE OF
of thetn, and éngaged to fell them for the profit of the
failors. He will fend the produce to the Ifle of France,
Where I propofe to divide it among the crews, unlefs,
by the orders you may fend me at that. colony, it
may be otherwife difpofed of. I fhall not however ar-
rive there within two years.
I cannot refrain from informing you,:that the
French nation has not, at this moment a fingle indi-
vidual refident in China with whom iI could entrutt,
inis trifling concern, The two fupercargoes are mad-
men. The firft, M. Thérein, has deftroyed himfelf
by blowing out his own brains ; and M. Dumoulin,
the fecond, has committed feveral acts of infanity, .
which in Europe would have caufed him to be con-
fined. He continues, however, entrufted with a
charge of great importance, becaufe no one thinks
himfelf fufficiently authorized to difplace him from
his office. The neceflary confequence of this fiate
of affairs is, that every commercial nation, even Den-
mark and Sweden, have men of the greatefi merit at
Macao, while France alone has not a fingle indivi-
dual of fufficient information to be a country juftice
of peace. I fhall indulge myfelf in fome remarks on
this fubject, when I have the honour to write you
from Manilla.
I forgot to mention in my former letters, that I
found, in the road of Macao, the Marquis de Caffries,
a fhip armed en flûte, and commanded by M. de Ri-
chery, enfcigne de vaiffeau. As this fhip was difpatch-
ed by Meffis, de Coffigny and d’Entrecafteaux, you
will be informed by them of its miffion; but I thought
I might take on myfelf to difcharge M. de Bellegarde
from that fhip, and employ him on board the Aftro-
Jabe, to replace the three officers who were loft on
the coaft of America, though he is only a garde de la
Marine,
FROM
we ae oe a Es
10 sn
t
t
€
c
]
;
}
;
{
oe —
e profit of the
fle of France,
crews, unlefs,
at. colony, it
t however ar-
you, ‘that the
a fingle indi-
could entruft:
goes are mad-
roycd himfelf
M. Dumoulin,
s of infanity, .
im to be con-
rufted with a
10 one thinks
ace him from
> of this flate
on, even Den-
‘eatefi merit at
fingle indivi-
ountry juftice
me remarks on
to write you
letters, that I
uis de Caffries,
by M. de Ri-
was difpatch-
ecafteaux, you
; but I thought
. de Bellegarde
bard the Aftro-
o were loft on
y a garde de la
FROM
M. DE LA PÉROUSE,
FROM M. DE LA PEROUSE.
‘Sir, Manilla, 7th April, 1787.
IF your various occupations have permitted you to.
caft your eyes over my narrative, I flatter myfelf you ,
will perceive we have neglected nothing that could,
render our voyage interefting and ufeful. Our chart. .
of the north-welt coaft of America, from Mount St.
Elias to Monterey, will leave little to be defired by.
navigators. Our misfortune in Baie des Français,
fay from abating our ardour, has more ftrongly con-
vinced us of the duties we owe to his Majefty and the
nation, and we inceflantly regret that it is our fate not
to have the leaft hope of difcovering a new continent,
but that we can only expect to meet with a few iflands
of little importance, that will add nothing either ta
our knowledge or our commerce. You will have
learned froma the letters delivered you by M. Dufrefne,
that after having fold our fkins, 1 propofed to fail for
Manilla, there to take in provifions, overhaul our
rigging, repair our rudder, and, in fhort, put our-
felves in a fituation to continue our yoyage, by paf-
fing through the channel of Formofa, and ranging
the weftern coafts of Japan and Tartary.
You will obferve, Sir, that this part of our voyage
has been generally deemed the moft difficult ; and if
we are happy enough to explore thefe coafts with the
fame fuccefs as thofe of America, we fhall have the
honour of being the firft who have effected this navi-
gation, which is fubjeét ta the moft violent ftorms,
in narrow feas, entirely unknown, enveloped in
fogs, probably interfperfed with rocks, and ren-
dered fill more dangerous by rapid currents. All
thefe difficulties, however, prefent themfelves to our
imagination only to excite our prudence, inflame
pur ardour, and fortify our courage.
Bba I left
376 CORRESPONDENCE OF
I left Macao the 6th February, and did not arrive
at Cavita, in the bay of Manilla, till the 28th. The
details of this paflage are not a little interefting to
navigation, and will add a chapter to our narrative,
I preferred the harbour of Cavita to the road of
Manilla, becaufe we are near an arfenal, and within
reach of all fupplics. ‘Thefe have, indeed, been hcap-
ed upon us with a lavifh hand, and we are indebted
to the orders of the government, and flill more to
the obliging care of M. Gonzales Carvagnal, intend-
ant of the Philippines, that we fhall leave Cavita as well
provided with freth provifions as at our departure from
Breft.. From Kamtfchatka I fhall have the honour
of fending you, according to your orders, a particular
account of Manilla, its refources, adminiftration, new
company, and governors, who by no means adopt
the fentiments of the cabinet of Madrid towards our
country. I muft, however, make an exception in
favour of the intendant, from whom we have receiv-
ed, in every inflance, teftimonies of extreme kind-
nefs, and who has never failed to go every day in
perfon to all our purveyors, becaufe he knew the tar-
dy difpofition of his countrymen, and was anxious
that we might not lofe a fingle day.
I quit this place the 8th of April, although the
north-caft monfoon will then fill continue; but I
fhall be able to profit by the firft change of wind to
get to the northward. Before fetting fail, I have fecn
the frigate, La Subtile, commanded by M. de la Croix
de Catiries, arrive in the bay of Manilla. M. d’En-
trecafteaux had difpatched this fhip partly to inform
ine of his proceedings in China, that we might not
run the rifk of counteracting them, fhould our in-
ftructions enjoin us to navigate along the northern
coafts of that empire.
M. d’Entrecafteaux will inform you of the revolt
of the natives of Formofa, and of the offer of his fer-
vices he felt it his duty to make to China for the re-
duction
did not arrive
e 28th. The
interefting to
ur narrative,
o the road of
al, and within
ed, been hcap-
e are indebted
flill more to
sagnal, intend-
e Cavita as well
departure from
ive the honour
rs, a particular
niftration, new
_ means adopt
id towards our
1 exception in
ve have receiv-
extreme kind-
o every day in
‘ knew the tar-
1 was anxious
although the
bntinue ; but I
ge of wind to
fail, I have fecn
M. de la Croix
la. M. d’En-
artly to inform
we might not
ould our in-
ee the northern
L of the revolt
fer of his fer-
ina for the re-
duction
M. DE LA PEROUSE. 377
duction of the rebels. His propofal was however not
accepted, and I own I fhould have beheld with gricf
the navy of France lending its affiftance to a govern-
ment the moft iniquitous and oppreflive on earth.
Without a crime I may offer np a prayer to heaven
for the unhappy Formofuns fighting in the caufe of
liberty.
I returned for anfwer to M. d’Entrecafteaux that
my navigating along the coaft of China would not in
the leaft alarm that government; that I fhould not
put out my colours, and would avoid giving them um-
brage even in the flighteft punétilio; adding, that
although a good Frenchman at heart, I fhall, in this
country, aflume the character of a citizen of the
world, eftranged from all the politics of Afia.
Previous to my departure from Breft, you addref-
fed to me a memoir on Formofa, by M. Veillard.
Judge of my afonifhment when at Macao I found
this M. Veillard had not the leaft knowledge of that
country, that he could not anfwer a fingle queftion I
put to him, and that his memoir is a mere copy of a
manufcript in the hands of every European at Macao,
Though it is very foreign to the object of my
voyage to concern myfelf with the fervants of the
French government at Canton, I fhould not do juf-
tice to the marked confidence you are pleated to re-
pofe in me, were I to leave you ignorant that Met
Veillard, Coftar, de Guignes, and Dumoulin ought
never to have been entrufted with the affairs of a
great nation ; and that I was obliged to apply to M.
Elfiockenfirom, Prefident of the Swedifh company,
for all my wants,
Ihave the honour to fend you a private letter on
that fubject.
CORRESPONDENCE OF
FROM M. DE LA PÉROUSE.
SIR, Manilla, 7th April, 1787.
THE arrival of M. de la Croix de Cattries at Ma-
nilla has been one of the moft fortunate events of our
voyage. He has very kindly offered to carry our
furs to France, as | had the honour of mentioning to
you before, and moft obligingly to repair the lofès
we have fuftained fince our departure, by transferring
four men and an officer out of his crew ta each of
our fhips. In confequence of this arrangement, M.
Guyet de la Villeneuve, en/eigne de vaiffcau, has been
removed on board the Bouflole, and M. te Gobien,
garde de la marine, to the Aftrolabe. This recruit was
very neceflary, as three days ago we had the misfor-
tune to lofe M. Daigremont, one of the lieutenants on
board the Aftrolabe, who dicd of a dyfentery; and
the health of M. de Saint Céran is fo much impaired,
that I am obliged to fend him to the Ifle of France
for his recovery, all the furgeons having declared it
impoffible for him to procecd on the voyage. Thus,
fince our departure from Europe, our efat-major has
fuffered a diminution of no lefs than eight officers,
feven of whom no longer exift, and the cighth affords
little hopes of life. We have, however, in two years,
loft only one cfficer and a fervant by, natural death,
Both thefe belonged to the Aftroiabe, whofe crew,
however, has enjoyed {till mare perfect health than
that of the Boufloie.
FROM M. DE LA PEROUSE.
Sir, Awatfcha, Sept. 10, 1787.
I MAY venture to flatter myfelf you will receive
with pleafure the particulars of our voyage from Ma-
nilla to Kamtfchatka. Our fhips have purfued a
traçk
April, 1787.
ftries at Ma-
events of our
to carry our
nentioning to
air the lotles
y transferring
ew to each of
ngement, M.
Jcau, has been
A. le Gobien,
lis recruit Was
d the misfor-
lieutenants on
yfentery; and
uch impaired,
Ifle of France
ng declared it
pyage. Thus,
etat-major has
eight officers,
cighth affords
,in two years,
natural death,
| whofe crew,
€ health than
ept. 10, 1787.
u will receive
age from Ma-
ve purfucd à
traçk
M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 379
track abfolütely new. They have pañled between
Coréa and Japan, ranged the coaft of Tartary to the:
neighbourhood of the river Segalien, explored the
Oku:Jeflo, and Jeffo of the Japaneie, and difcovered
a new ftrait for failing out of the fea of Tartary, Our
difcoveries have been verified and connected with
thofe of the Dutch, which the greater number of
revgraphers began to reject, and the Ruffians found
moft advantageous to efface from their charts, Laft-
ly, we have failed out to the northward of the Com-
pany’s land, ‘whence we ftecred for Kamtichatka.:
Our fhips anchored in the bay of Awatfcha, on the 7th
September, after a paflage of 150 days, of which 140
were fpent at fea; and we have nota fick man on
board either of the fhips, though we have failed in
the middle of the thickeft fogs. Obliged to anchor
or weigh every moment, with fatigues of which the
voyages of Captain Cook perhaps afford but few ex-
amples, our care for the prefervation of our crews
has been hitherto attended with ftill greater fuccefs
than on board the veffels of that celebrated naviga-
tor; for in twerity-fix months, which have elapted
fince our departure from Europe, not one perfon has
died on board the Bouflole, nor have we one fick
man on board either of our fhips.
I recollect that on the delivery of my inftruCtions
you remarked how difficult and interefting would be
this part of our navigation, fince it cannot be of lefs
importance to geography to know the limits of the
continent we inhabit, than thofe of the fouthern con-
tuent or North America. We have been fo fortu-
nate as to prefent geographers with two iflands
equally large with thofe of Great Britain and Ireland,
and to have decided the only geographical problem
that remained to be refolved on the globe. Previous
to this I could not venture to rank our voyage next
in rank to that of Captain Cook ; and had not death
arrefied that great man’s career, it is probable he
would
ri mg ee
380 CORRESPONDENCE OF
would not have left the exploration of the coaft of
Tartary to his fucceflors. Should your occupations
permit you to caft your eye over my narrative, you .
will find, interwoven with the nautical details, all the
obfervations I had occafion to make on the pcople I
have vifited, and the foil and productions of their
country. I have neglected nothing, in general, that
could intereft government with refpect to commerce,
and, at the fame time, have not forgctten that it is
necefläry to engage the attention and occupy the lei-
fure of the learned, who are waiting only for our re-
turn, perhaps, to publifh new fyftems:of philofophy,
To my narrative I have added all the neeeflary charts,
plans, and tables of latitude and longitude, as well
as the drawings of Meffts Duché and Blondela, for
the truth of which I can be refponfible.
I have the honour to fend you alfo two memoirs
relative to the political part ‘of my inftrudctions, the
one on Manilla and the other on Formofa. ‘i hey
are very fummary, becaufe I know the value o°
time, and they contain only what I thought un.” ic
be inferted in my narrative. I dared not truft them
to the poft; and think you will approve of the ftep
TI have taken in difpatching M. de Leffeps, our Ruf-
fian interpreter, to France. I confidercd that his
pay and fubfiftence would amount to nearly as much
as the expence of his journcy from Kamtfchatka to
Paris, and I fhould be unwilling to carry with me
into the fouthern hemifphere a young man deflined
for a diplomatic career of confulfhips, and who would
lofe on board, that time which he ought to employ
in infiruétion. I have therefore charged him with
my letters ; and I flatter myfelf that by the time he
arrives at Paris, our fhips will haye reached New
Zealand.
In a few days I fhall have the honour to addref
ou a letter relative to the ultcrior plan of my voyage,
which will be of nearly four years continuance.
During
ten +0 CS
a
of the coaft of
ur occupations
narrative, you :
details, all the
on the people I
étions of their
in general, that
t to commerce,
ctten that it is
occupy the lei-
mly for our re-
‘of philofophy.
eceflary charts,
gitude, as well
1 Blondela, for
é,
> two memoirs
nftructions, the
ormofa. aey
e value o-
hought un i
not truft them
rove of the ftep
(feps, our Ruf-
idercd that his
nearly as much
Kamtfchatka to
carry with me
r man defined
and who would
ight to employ
rged him with
y the time he
reached New
our to addrefs
n of my voyage,
S continuance.
During
M. DE LA PEROUSE. 381
During. that'period ‘we fhall have been 38 months
under fail';, a voyage, perhaps, hitherto without ex-
ample. h “1 ye !
FROM M. DE LA PÉROUSE.
Sir, Awat/cha, Sept. 21, 1787.
I HAD the honour of addreffing you by Mel
Dufrefne and Leffeps, the narrative of my voyage
from our firft leaving Breft to our arrival at Kamt-
fchatka. . It now remains for me to inform you of
the ultimate plan of our navigation, fince I have
made ufe of the liberty you gave me, of making any
alteration in it that fhould be found convenient, con-
forming, however, as much as poffible to my inftruc-
tions. I thought it beft to begin with the northern
hemifphere, and conclude with that of the fouth,
where the Ifle of France is fituated, confidering that
as the ultimate limit of the objects of my navigation.
I may venture to flatter myfelf your intentions
have been thus far perfectly anfwered with refpe@ to
me; and I have been fo completely feconded by M.
de Langle, that ifthe voyage appears of any value in
your eyes, he ought certainly to participate in the ho-
nour and advantage of it. Our fhips, in defpite of
the fogs, have failed fo clofe together, and in fuch
HY | concert, that we might almoft pronounce this
expedition to have been effected by only one fhip and
captain. I purpoñe quitting the bay of A‘vatfcha on
the 1ft of October. I fhall then fhape my courfe to
reconnoitre the northern Kuriles as far as the Canal
de la Bouffole, where I fhall run along the 37th pa-
rallel, in fearch of the pretended land difcovered by
the Spaniards in 1610. Ido not believe in the ex-
iftence of this land, which is very near the ordinary
track of the galleons ; and all the information I can
obtain, leads me to belicve, the Spaniards never fell in
with
389 CORRESPONDENCE OF
with it. From the 37th parallel 1 thall fteer for the
archipelago r'orth of the ‘Marianas. or Ladrones, and
run along that chain of iflands as far as Guam; where
I fhall put in for only five days, to procure fuch a
ftock of fruit and oxen as may preferve our crews
from the {curvy during the remainder‘of our long na-
vigation.
From Guam I fhall fteer for the Cardine Iflands, if
the information I obtain promifes a certainty of mak.
ing Cape Choifeul of the Terre des Arfucides and patt:
ing through the fame ftrait as M. de Bougainville, in
order to get to the fouthward, and with the wefterly
winds arrive in Queen Charlotte’s Sound in New Zea-
land *, about the 20th January 1788. If, on the con-
trary, from my own obfervation and enquiry of others,
I find it impoffible to purfue that track, I fhall aban-
don the attempt to explore the Caroline Iflands, which
will oblige me to fall 150 leagues to Iceward of the
Marianas, and I fhall fteer directly from Guam to New
Zealand, keeping as much to the eaftward as poffible.
In a track fo perfectly new, it is probable I may find
feveral iflands more interefting than the Carolines,
and certainly lefsknown. I fhall employ fome time
in vifiting them; neither of thefe plans requiring
my arrival. in New Zealand till the 20th of January
1788. From Queen Charlotte’s Sound I fhall run to
the Friendly Iflands, and perform all that is enjoined
me in my inftrudtions relative to the fouthern part of
New Caledonia, the ifland of Santa Cruz de Menda-
na, the fouthern coaft of the Terre des Arfucides, and
Bougainville’s Louifiade, determining whether it forms
a part of New Guinea, or is feparated from it. At the
* Ina fubfequent letter, dated 28th September, la Péroufe an-
nounces, that on the 28th he received letters from the Minifter at
Kamtfchatka, and that the only change of his plan refulting from
thence will be that of not going to New Zealand, that he may have
more time to explore the coaft of New Holland, and the Englifh
fettlement there —french Editor.
?
end
tt en. Le. 2 os ane! 2. ae See See: Se om" ala
Pe a. oe ee
all ‘fteer for the
r Ladrones, and
as Guam; where
procure fuch a
erve our crews
‘of our long na-
irdine Iflands, if
tainty of mak.
facides and pati:
Bougainville, in
ith the wefterly
nd in New Zea-
If, on the con-
iquiry of others,
ck, I fhall aban-
e Iflands, which
leeward of the
n Guam to New
ward as poffible.
able I may find
the Carolines,
ploy fome time
plans requiring
oth of January
d I fhall run to
that is enjoined
outhern part of
ruz de Menda-
rs Arfacides, and
vhether it forms
romit. At the
pber, la Péroufe an-
om the Minifter at
plan refulting from
d, that he may have
d, and the Englifh
’
end
M. DE LA PÉROUSE! > 583
end of July 1 fhall pafs between New Guinea and New
Holland, by a different channel fiom that of Endea-
vour Strait, fhould that paflage be found really to
exift. During the months ‘of Augaft and Septem-
ber, and a part of Odober I {hall vifit the Gulph of
Carpentaria, and the coaft of New Holland, bat in
fuch a manner that I fhall beable to get to the north-
watd ‘towards the: tropics, and' arrive in the begin-
ning of December 17 88, at the Ifle of France ; thence
I fhall.fpeecily depart to explore the pretended Cape
Circumcifion of Bouvet, and touching at the Cape of
Good Hope or not, as circumftanecs may require,
arrive in France about Jane 1789, 46 months after
my departure. :
I flatter myfelf you will obferve with pleafure
that, in this long voyage, I fhali not have had oc-
cafion to touch at ‘thofe tedious Society Iflands, on
which more has been already written than on feveral
of the kingdoms.of Europe, and I acknowledge I fhall
think myfelf happy in not having to fpeak either of
Otaheite or Queen Oberca. I have always taken par-
ticular careto avoid the tracks of preceding navigators.
FROM M. DE LA PÉROUSE.
SIR, Awat{cha, Sept. 25, 1787.
YOU alrcady know that our misfortune on the
north-weft coaft of America fruftrated all the intended
favours you were pleafed to beftow on the officers of
our fhips. Mefits. d'Efcures and de Pierrevert had
each a penfion, which may be given to Meif de Vau-
juas and Boutin, officers of equal merit, and no lefs
diftinguifhed by their talents than by their zeal and
activity. Mefiits. de Bellegarde and le Gobien,
gardes de la marine, whom you have affociated with
us in our labours, and who, at Macao and Manilla,
evinced fo ardent a defire to-fupply the place of the
officers
384 CORRESPONDENCE OF
officers we liad) the misfortune to lof, will by the
time they arrive at the Ifle of France, have very well
merited the commiflions of enx/eigne granted to Mefi:
de Boutetvilliers, de “Flaffan, and; de Montarnal,
Melfi; de Blondela and: Colinet, lieutenants, to whom
you hive permitted me to give hopes. of a commiffion
of capitaine de brälot on, their return, have already,
by their good conduct; merited. that reward, which I
therefore entreat you to fend to them at the Ifle of
France, with the commiffion for M. de Monti, and ¢
letter of approbation to M. de Clonard. The latter
being promoted to the rank of capitaine de vaiffeau,
has nothing further to expect, but continues to per-
form the duty ofa lieutenant, and attends to the mcf
minute particulars: of fervice with an ardour and at-
tention deferving the greateft eulogium. Though
my applaufe may perhaps be fufpected of partiality,
fince he is my moft particular friend, I muft affure
you there cannot be found a better officer, or a more
virtuous and honourable man.
I have alfo many eulogiums to confer on the good
conduct of M. Guyet de la Villenenne, who at Manilla
was removed from M. de la Croix de Caftries’s fhip
to mine, to fupply the place of M. de Saint Céran,
whofe bad ftate of health obliged me to fend him to
the Ifle of France. Nor can I omit the praifes due
to Meff. Mouton and Broudou, whom I have reward-
ed with the lieutenant’s commiffion you were pleafed
to give me in blank before my departure.
M. de Langle relies for every particular in aftrono-
my on M. de Laurifton, a young man full of talents,
zeal, and merit. He has been fo fuccefsful a pupil,
that he no longer requires a mafter. M. Dagelet
has alfo been perfectly well feconded by M. Darbaud,
and there is not perhaps in all France a young man
who at fo early an age poffeffes fo much information.
M. Dagelet is here employed in the fame manner
as ourfelves, and doubtlefs performs it better. ae
a
e, will by the
ave very well
nted to Mefi;
le Montarnal,
ants, to whom
fa commiffion
have already,
ward, which I
at the Ifle of
» Monti, and &
4... The latter
ne de vaiffeau,
tinues to per-
nds to the mett
ardour and at-
um. ‘Though
d of partiality,
I muft affure
ficer, or a more
er on the good
tho at Manilla
Cafiries’s fhip
le Saint Céran,
to fend him to
the praifes duc
I have reward-
bu were pleafed
e.
ular in aftrono-
full of talents,
cefsful a pupil,
. M. Dagclet
y M. Darbaud,
é a young man
h information.
e fame manner
better. Among
all
M. DE LANGLE. 385
all his good and amiable qualities, his only defect
feems to be a very delicate conftitution.
M. de Langle is above all panegyric ; and I hope
fincerely for the benefit of the fervice and of the ftate,
he may attain the higheft rank in the navy before old
age and fatigue fhall have diminifhed his powers.
_M. Rollin, doctor of phyfic, and furgeon on board
my fhip, is a man of diftinguifhed knowledge. By
his care he has preferved us from the fcurvy and every
other difeafe. You have authorifed me to promife
him a penfion on his return, if the mortality does not
excced three :n the hundred on board my fhip ; and
during the twenty-fix months that have elapfed fince
our departure, not one perfon has died a natural
death on board the Bouffole, nor have we a man fick.
. M. de Langle is alfo very well fatisfied with his
furgeon, M. Lavaux. He has only loft a confump-
tive fervant, and M. Daigremont, who poifoned him-
felf by obftinately taking burnt brandy to cure the
dyfentery. The purfer’s clerk of the Aftrolabe is
alfo dead of a fractured fcull, occafioned by a mut
ket burfting in his hands,
FROM M. DE LANGLE,
Sir, Awatfcha, 25th Sept. 1787.
THE fogs that have conftantly enveloped us,
fince our departure from Manilla, have confiderably
damaged the cordage of the Aftrolabe. With the
fpare cordage, however, which remain on board, I
hope to be able to take her at leaft to the Ifle of
France, about the time fixed in the plan of our voy-
age. In other refpects my fhip is in good condition.
During the fogs I have always kept within hail of
the Bouffole, becaufe M. de la Péroufe has always
made a point of our keeping company together, and
my officers have piqued themfelves upon not fepa-
Vou. IT, LC rating
386: CORRESPONDENCE OF
rating from him. To the encomiums I have already
had the honour to fend you on their talents, I with
I were able to add fufficient praife for the patience
with which they await the end of the voyage, and
the eagernefs of their defire to make new difcove-
ries.
The intereft I take in the honour of my country,
and the fuccefs of M. de la Péroufe, induce me to
mention to you with what reafon we felicitate our-
felves on having terminated our perilous and difficult
navigation along the coaft of Afia, for which we are
certainly indebted to the vigilance, the prudence, and
the talents of our commander. It will always be my
endeavour to fecond his defigns, both from the in-
tereft I feel in promoting the fcience of geography,
and from every motive of gratitude for all the marks
of friendfhip he has at all times beftowed upon me.
I know alfo that you are anxious for the fuccefs of
the voyage ; and nothing will obliterate from my re-
collection the favours with which you have honoured
me. It will be the earneft with of my heart to merit
a continuation of your confidence.
FROM M. DE LA PEROUSE.
Sir, Awatfcha, 27th Sept. 1787.
M. DE LESSEPS, whom I have charged with
my letters, is a young man whofe conduct has been
exemplary throughout our voyage ; and in fending
him to France, I facrifice much of my own pleafure
to the friendfhip I entertain for him. But as he is
probably deftined one day to fill the place of his fa-
ther in Ruffia, I think a journey by land, acrofs this
vaft empire, will afford him means of acquiring in-
formation ufeful to our commerce, and calculated
to ftrengthen our connection. with a kingdom,
whofe productions are fo neceflary to our ous ;
aes Mi, GC
| have already
alents, I with
the patience
voyage. and
new difcove-
f my country,
induce me to
felicitate our-
us and difficult
r which we are
prudence, and
| always be my
th from the in-
of geography,
r all the marks
owed upon me,
r the fuccefs of
ate from my re-
have honoured
y heart to merit
E.
D7 th Sept. 1787.
e charged with
ynduct has been
and in fending
y own pleafure
But as he is
place of his fa-
land, acrofs this
bf acquiring in-
| and calculated
h a_ kingdom,
our navy.
M. de
M. DE LA PEROUSE. | 387
M. dé Leffeps appears to fpeak the Ruffian tongue
with the fame facility as the French. He has rendered
us at Kamtfchatka the greateft fervice ; and if the re-
verfion of the place of conful-general at Peterfburgh,
which his father enjoys, fhould be the reward of his
voyage round the world by fea and land, I fhall re-
ard this favour as a teftimony of your fatisfaction at
our conduct.
FROM M. DE LA PEROUSE.
Sir, Botany Bay, 5th Feb. 1788.
BEFORE this letter arrives, I flatter myfelf you
will have received the journal of my voyage from
Manilla to Kamtfchatka, which I had the honour to
fend you by M. de Leflèps, who left the harbour of
St. Peter and St. Paul OGtober 1, 1787. That
part of our expedition, doubtlefs the moft difficult,
in feas abfolutely unknown to navigators, has been,
however, the only one where we have not experienced
any misfortune. In the fouthern hemifphere the
moft terrible difafler awaited us. I can only repeat
here what you will read more at length in my jour-
nal. Mefits. de Langle and de Lamanon, with ten
other perfons, have fallen victims to their own hu-
manity. Had their tendernefs of the life of others
permitted them to fire on the iflanders before they were
furrounded, our boats would not have been deftroyed
by the fury of the favages, and his Majefty would not
have loft one of the beft officers in the navy.
Although this event has greatly diminifhed the
number of our crews, I have not deemed it proper
to alter the ultimate plan of my cxpedition. I have
been obliged, however, more haftily to explore the
various and interefting iflands of the South Sea that
I might have time to conftruct two boats at Botany
Bay, and reconnoitre a principal points required
c 2 in
388 CORRESPONDENCE OF
in my inftructions before the change of the mon.
ei which would render that exploration impoffi-
ble.
We have arrived at New Holland without having
one fick man on board either of our fhips. Eighteen
of the twenty wounded at Maouna, hs entirely
recovered ; and M. Lavaux, furgeon of the Afiro-
labe, who has been trepanned, as well as a failor of
the fame fhip, are entirely out of danger.
M. de Monti, fecond captain to M. de Langle,
continued to command the Aftrolabe till our arrival
at Botany Bay. He is fo excellent an officer, that I
did not think it neccffary to make any change in the
fhip till our arrival in port, where, however, I
could not overlook the juft claim of M. de Clonard,
who holds the rank of capitaine de vaiffeau. His place
on board my fhip has been fupplied by M. de Monti,
whofe talents and zeal are above all praife, and whofe
good conduct gives him the faireft title to the cap-
tain’s commiffion you were pleafed to promife him,
if theaccounts you fhould receive of him werc favour-
able. |
At Botany Bay we were preceded by the Englifh
only five days. To the moft diftinguifhed polite-
nefs, they have added every fervice in their power ;
and it was not without regret that, as foon as we arriv-
ed, we beheld them depart for Port Jackfon, fifteen
miles to the northward of Botany Bay. Commodore
Philip, with great reafon, gave the preference to that
place, and has left us fole mafters of this bay, where
our boats are already on the ftocks. By the end of
the month I expect they will be launched.
Weare only ten miles diftant from the Englifh by
land, and confequently enabled to have frequent in-
tercourfe. It being poffible Commodore Philip may
make an expedition to the iflands of the South Sea, I
confidered it my duty to give him the latitude and
longitude of Maouna, and to guard ‘him againft the
; perfidious
of the mon-
tion impoffi-
ithout having
ps. Eighteen
ave entirely
of the Afiro-
as a failor of
A. de Langle,
ill our arrival
officer, that I
change in the
>, however, I
I. de Clonard,
pau. His place
M. de Monti,
ife, and whofe
le to the cap-
> promife him,
werc favour-
the Englifh
uifhed polite-
their power ;
On as we arriv-
ackfon, fifteen
Commodore
ference to that
is bay, where
By the end of
ed.
the Englith by
re frequent in-
ore Philip may
te South Sea, I
e latitude and
im againft the
perfidious
‘OF M. DE LESSEPS, 389
perfidious careffes he may poffibly receive from the
inhabitants of that ifland fhould his fhips touch there
in the courfe of his navigation.
ee aS
FROM M. DE LA PEROUSE.
SIR, Botany Bay, Feb. 7, 1788.
1 SHALL run upto the Friendly Iflands, and obey
all my inftructions relative to the fouthern part of
New Caledonia, the Ifland of Santa Cruz de Menda-
na, the fouthern coaft of Za Terre des Arfacides of Sur-
ville, and the Louifiade of Bougainville, examining
at the famc time whether this laft is or is not a part of
New Guinea, About the end of July 1788, I fhall
paf between New Guinea and New Holland by
another channel than that called Endeavour Strait,
ifany can be found. During the month of Septem-
ber and part of October, I fhall vifit the Gulph of Car-
pentaria, and all the weftern coaft of New Holland
as far as Van Diemen’s land, but fo that I may bé
able to get to the northward foon enough to arrive in
the Ifle of France about the beginning of December
1788.
FROM M. DE LESSEPS.
Sir, Verfuilles, Oct. 31, 1788.
ON my arrival at Kamtfchatka, I made it my bu-
fincfs to procure particular information relative to
the fecret expedition preparing at Okhotfk, and the
motive of the voyage. Some information I procured
there may perhaps intereft your curiofity, and afford
ateltimony of the ardent defire I feel to afford you
every fatistaction. I take the liberty of adding to it
other accounts which I think novel, and confequent-
ly proper to be laid before you. 2e
Cc3 Mr. Billings
390 CORRESPONDENCE OF
M. Billings, who failed with Captain Cook in his
laft voyage, as an aftronomer, was fent from Eng-
land to command this expedition, the Emprefs hav-
ing « {apte for a perfon well informed in this fcience,
‘On this man her imperial Majefty conferred the rank
of captain of a fhip of the 2d rate, gave him a
carte-blanche, and empowered him to examine the fi-
tuation of the whole of Siberia. She has been ata
great expence in building and fitting out two
veffels from Okhotfk, and officers of the Ruffian
navy have been chofen with orders to repair to Ok-
hotik, under the command of Mr. Billings, and affitt
in the conftruiion of the fhips. This expedition was
in contemplation at the time of the departure of M.
de la Péroufe, for it was mentioned that he might fall
in with it perhaps in the northern parts of the South
Seas. I found it fo little advanced when I was at Ok-
hotfk on the 8th of May laft, that of one fhip the
framing was fcarcely finifhed ; and of the other only
the keel was laid. In all probability thefe fhips can
with difficulty be gat to fea in the year 1789. Not
to lofe any time, Mr. Billings determined previoufly
to equip a few fmall veffels or floops on the river Ko-
lumé, and having failed down that river in 1787,
made a voyage in the Frozen Ocean. His firft inten-
tion was, I imagine, to go by fea to Kamtfchatka, and
double Capes Svetoi and Tchoukotfkoi, the former of
which is the only obftacle that navigators have yet
met with in their voyages. ‘This Mr. Billings was
not able to overcome, and probably the ice pre-
vented him from doubling Cape Svetoi. He re-
turned to the river Kolumé, about the end of the
fame year, The ice being carried by the north-
erly winds towards the coaft, forced him to approach
it very often, and he took advantage of thofe from the
fouth to continue his voyage, the fea being then more
practicable. The deftination of the two fhips at Ok-
hotfk, under the command of Mr. Billings is yet a
| perfect
n Cook in his
it from Eng-
Emprefs hav-
in this fcience,
ferred the rank
_ gave him a
xamine the fi-
has been ata
ing out two
of the Ruffian
repair to Ok-
lings, and affitt
expedition was
parture of M.
at he might fall
ts of the South
en I was at Ok-
f one fhip the
f the other only
hefe fhips can
ar 1789. Not
ined previoufly
n the river Ko-
river in 1787,
His firft inten-
amtfchatka, and
oi, the former of
ators have yet
r. Billings was
ly the ice pre-
vetoi. He re-
the end of the
by the north-
im to approach
of thofe from the
being then more
two fhips at Ok-
billings is yet 4
perfect
M. DE LESSEPS. 391
perfect fecret. Poffibly, according to fome rumours
that prevail in the country, the captain intends to pafs
Behring’s Straits, to complete his firft defign, or run
down the north-weft coaft of America. The fecret
is, however, fo clofely kept, that my conjectures have
perhaps little foundation.
I-take the liberty of prefenting you with two charts
I ere at Okhotfk. Permit me to have the honour
of making you this little acknowledgment; and as
I would not rifk taking copies of them, I hope
you will be pleafed to order onc to be made for me.
The firft is a gencrai map, containing the eaftern
ay of Afia, fome of the Aleutian Iflands, Eamtfchat-
a, the feas of Okhotfk and Pevitchinka, the Kuriles,
the extent of the Ruffian difcoveries, and the little
they know of the Ifland of Segalies, of jeffo, and
the coaft of Tartary. The other map appears roman-
tic, and is fo in fact. But notwithftanding its fin-
gularity, it may afford you pleafure, and the Kuriles
are, as I am aflured, very well delineated. i nave
tranflated the articles which appear neceffary to un-
derftand this chart, but it is not known by whom it
was conftructed, or who made the voyage. The
defcription, which I think very improbable, has been
copied, as well as the chart, from the original, re.
maining at Okhotfk, where I found nothing elie that
was more interefting.
Several veflels have been fof! during the laft year,
on the coaft of Kamtfchatka, or its vicinity, Among
others, a fhip belonging to Mr. Lantz, an Englith
merchant, and commanded by Capt. Peters, was
wrecked on Copper [fland. A Portuguefe, and a
Bengal negro, were che only perfons faved ; who,
after paffing the winter on the ifland, were fent, by
the Ruffians, to Kamtfchatka, where I faw them.
They are to be fent, this year, to Peterfburgh, and
it is probable they will arrive there in two or three
months. The captain, during his firft ftay at Kamtf-
Cca chatka,
392 CORRESPONDENCE OF
chatka, had contracted with a merchant of the
country, named Schelikoff, for purchates to the
amount of 80,000 roubles; and, by this Ruffian, had
fent to obtain permiflion of the Emprefs to trade in
this part of her dominions. The fhip was expected
to return to Kamtfchatka ; but, during the interval,
he had been on a voyage to the north-weft coaft of
America, probably to procure furs; and it was not
till his return, and within a fhort diftance from the
harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, that he was loft.
He therefore received no benefit from the permiffion
he had folicited, though it was immediately granted.
I found likewife at Kamifchatka nine Japancfe,
who, for want of a compafs, were driven, in a gale
of wind, off their own coaft, of which the inhabitants
take great care never to lofe fight. They had kept
the fea for fix months in a little coafting vefie!, and
the firft land they made was the Aleutian Iflands,
where their only care was to anchor, go on fhore, and
abandon the veffel. The night, the profpect of bad
weather, and the efforts of the Ruflians whom they
met there, all were infufficient to induce them to
return to the fhip, either to unload her cargo, or
even bring her to a place of fafety. In fhort, over-
joyed at being again on fhore, they forgot ail other
confiderations, and left her to the fury of the winds,
which during the night drove her on fhore. Only
a few of the effects were faved; which the Ruffians
took charge of, and carried to Kamtfchatka, in their
veflels employed in the fur trade. hither alto they
carried the nine Japanefe, who are treated there with
great kindnefs and attention, and will fpeedily be
fent to Peterfburgh.
I have the honour to affure you, that the voca-
bulary of the language of Kamtfchatka, which I
compofed by the orders of M. de la Péroufe, is as
correct as I could poffibly make it. You and he
have the difpofal of it; but Tintreat you to permit
me
chant of the
baies to the
; Ruffian, had
fs to trade in
was expected
x the interval,
-weft coaft of
nd it was not
ance from the
t he was loft.
the permiffion
ately granted,
ne Japancfe,
ven, ina gale
he inhabitants
They had kept
ig veflel, and
eutian Iflands,
yon fhore, and
rofpect of bad
ns whom they
duce them to
her cargo, or
In fhort, over-
orgot ail other
of the winds,
fhore. Only
the Ruffians
hatka, in their
ither alfo they
ted there with
ll fpeedily be
hat the voca-
tka, which I
Péroufe, is as
You and he
you to permit
me
M. DE LESSEPS. : 303
me to infert it in my journal, as it will contribute,
perhaps, to render my narrative more interefting.
To this I devote myfelf, with the greateft application,
according to your orders; hoping that I fhall foon
be able to prefent it to you, and render myfelf more
worthy of your kindnefs.
M. de la Péroufe commanded me, in his inftruc-
tions, to remind you of the obligations he owed to
Colonel Kafloff-Ougrenin, colonel and commandant
of Okhotik and Kamtfchatka, who refufed to accept
payment for feven oxen he gave us for our fhips.
He regretted he was not able to furnifh the rye
meal, for which M. de la Péroufe applied, but there
was none to be found in any of the magazines at
Kamtfchatka. M. Vañli-Schmalcff, already cele-
brated in Cook’s voyage, and now infpeétor general
of Kamtfchatka, has alfo rendered us various fervices,
as well as Enfign Kaborof, commandant ofthe har-
bour of St. Peter and St. Paul. M. de la Péroufe
acknowledges he was as well received by them, as
if they had been his own countrymen ; and was very
defirous, while returning thanks to the Ruffian
court, to procure a recompence for thefe gentlemen,
adequate à: their fervices. It is well known, the
Englifh, on their return, made feveral prefents to
Major Behm, then commandant of Kamtfchatka,
and the other Ruffian officers in that peninfula ;
though we have reafon to believe they were not
treated equally well with us. I am indebted to thefe
officers for the affiftance they rendered me in my
journey over land, and I can affure you they pro-
cured me every aid in their power. M. Kafloff,
who fhewed a great attachment to me, has given
me a note of what he hoped from the bounty of the
Emprefs. Should it be agreeable, I will tranfinit it
fo you,
EXTRACTS
oS >
= ; 2 \
pee Er Mn Ariane A DER aa TR SRE
CORRESPONDENCE OF
EXTRACTS OF LETTERS,
From Meffrs. de la Péroufe and Dagelet,
to M. Fleurieu.
FROM M. DE LA PÉROUSE.
Macao Road, Jan. 3, 1787,
I SEND you the chart of Monterey, laid down
by ourfelves. At that place I had no opportunity of
becoming acquainted with feveral officers of the {mall
navy of San-Blas, who are certainly not deficient
in information, and appcared to me very capable of
taking the moft accurate furveys. |
You fee I have often changed the plan of my na-
vigation, as experience and reflection have directed
me. Itis only in this manner that fo vaft a plan as
ours can be finally executed.
For example, I failed from the Sandwich Iflands
directly to Mount Saint Elias, becaufe had I begun
with Monterey, and then gone norihward, I fhould
have been conftantly oppoied by the north wefterly
winds; while, on the contrary, with the fame winds,
I was enabled to range along the coaft of America,
as I came downwards, and follow it at pleafure. But
the fogs are an inceflantly recurring obftacle, and
obliged me to lofe confiderable time in the precau-
tions which prudence conftantly demanded. I do
not think more than three clear days ‘an there be ex-
pected in a month. The currents alfo are extremely
violent, and call for the greateft caution. At Port des
Français, they occafioned the misfortune of which
you have been informed by my former letters; à
inisfortune that will be to me an everlafting fource
of grief.
I know
35
a Dagelet,
E.
, Jan. 3, 1787,
erey, laid down
> opportunity of
cers of the fmall
y not deficient
very capable of
plan of my na-
1 have directed
fo vaft a plan as
andwich Iflands
fe had I begun
hward, I fhould
e north wefterly
the fame winds,
patt of America,
t pleafure. But
g obftacle, and
in the precau-
emanded. Ido
‘an there be ex-
o are extremely
on. At Port des
rtune of which
rmer letters; à
erlafting fource
I know
M. DE LA PÉROUSE, 305
Iknow not whether you will regret that I did not
more perfectly explore the archipelago of St. Lazarus,
(if it deferves that name) which, in my opinion, it
does not. But it muft be obferved, that I dif-
covered the entrance of it only about the end of
Auguft, when the das becoming very fhort, we were
continually furrounued by fogs, and at Cape Hector
encountered currents running more than fix miles
an hour. It was therefore impoflible to pafs be-
tween all thefe iflands in the {pace of two or three
months; and from the very beginning of September,
the feafon is over. This furvey, to be complete,
would require a feparate expedition for that purpofe
alone, and of not lefs than two or three years dura-
tion. Nothing is fo tedious as exploring in detail a
coaft interfperfed with iflands and gulphs, where the
fogs and currents are fo frequent, fo violent, and fo
uncertain, that it cannot be approached without
extreme prudence and precaution. However that
may be, I entertain not the leaft doubt. the voyage
of Admiral Fuentes, at leaft as we now have it, is
greatly exaggerated, if not a mere dream of fiction.
It is impoffible in fo fhort a time to run over fo vaft
a fpace as he pretends; and I am tempted to believe
that Admiral Fuentes, and his Captain Bernarda,
are chimerical beings, and their narrative of his
pretended voyage a fable. It is true, however, that
from Crofs Sound to Cape Fleurieu, the great
Spanifh navigator Maurillo, Capt. Cook, and myfelf,
nave only coafted along iflands 40 or 50 leagues dif-
tant from the continent. This opinion is founded
on the direction of the continent, which I again
faw at Cape Fleurieu. Thete iflands are moftly
of great extent, and as they fhut one within another,
if | may be allowed the expreflion, this difpofition
gives them the appearance of a continucd coaft. I
had frequently fufpeéted the land I perceived was
not always in the fame plane; but this fufpicion be-
Came
306 CORRESPONDENCE UF
came a Certainty when, doubling Cape Hector, I ran
20 leagues to the northward. All thefe details, fup.
pofe you to have before your eyes the charts and
plansI fend you, and that you follow our route upon
them as you read my narrative.
You muft perceive, that on the whole very few
particulars can be expected from us. In order to
run over, in four years, all the points indicated in
my inftructions, we have not a day to lofe. But our
navigation will furnifh a proof that the health of a
crew may be preferved during a long continuance
at fea: for we have arrived at Macao without having
one man attacked with fcurvy ; though, during a
voyage of eighteen months, we have paffed fifteen in
Jaborious navigation, through climates the moft op-
pofite and various,
I write to you in hafte, without order, throwing
my ideas on paper as they arife. I am anchored at
five miles diftance from the town, with which I have
yet had no communication; and as I am told a fhip
wil! fail for Europe to-morrow, I make up my dif-
patches poft hafte. To the letters I fend the minifter,
T have added my narrative, and my charts and plans.
I fhall fend him duplicates the firft opportunity, that,
if any accident happen to us on the coaft of T'artary,
the beginning, at leaft, of our voyage may be of fome
utility to navigators. You will furely remark, with
pleafure, in reading my journal, that if from the
favages we have vifited fome injurics have been re-
ceived, we have fortunately done them no mifchicf.
You know better than any other perfon how ex-
prefsly it was enjoined me not to employ force but
on the laft extremity, and are no lefs acquainted that
it is a fentiment long cherifhed in my heart.
P.S. We have purchafed, on the coaft of Ame-
rica, nearly 1000 otter {kins ; but the greater num.
ber are in ftrips, and almoft rotten. In this traffick
I have ufed a fcrupulous delicacy, unknown se:
the
> Hector, I ran
fe details, fup-
he charts and
our route upon
whole very few
In order to
ts indicated in
) lofe. But our
he health of a
g continuance
without having
ugh, during a
affed fifteen in
s the moft op-
rder, throwing
im anchored at
h which I have
am told a fhip
ke up my dif-
id the minifter,
arts and plans.
ortunity, that,
aft of ‘Tartary,
ay be of fome
remark, with
t if from the
have been re-
m no mifchicf.
rfon how ex-
loy force but
equainted that
heart.
coaft of Ame-
greater num:
In this traffick
known among
the
M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 307
the purchafes of former navigators along this coaft.
Not a fingle fkin was purchafed, but by M. Du-
frefne. I entrufted him with the conduét of this
trade, and he has acquitted himfelf of this delicate
commiffion with great zeal and intelligence. |
He has numbered and regiftered every fkin, and
will fell them here for the profit of the failors. I
fhall tranfmit the accounts to the minifter, as a fu-
percargo would to his employer; annexing the re-
ceipts of all thofe to whom moncy has been paid.
I would not permit a fingle fkin to be referved for
the officers, the men of fcience, the artifts, or my-
felf. The profit of the voyage ought to be the
property of the failors *, and the glory, if there be
any, the reward of the officers and their affiftants,
who have conducted the expedition. I declare to
you, my dear friend, that I would not have un-
dertaken this voyage, for one hundred thoufand
crowns paid down, though I have not hefitated to en-
gage in it as a duty, influenced by the gratitude I feel
for the confidence that has been placed, doubtlefs
rather in my zeal than my talents.
Manilla, 8th April, 1787.
I DO not give you, my dear friend, any particulars
of my voyage; you have before you my letters to
the minifter, and I flatter myfelf, you have read my
narrative with no fmall intereft. We are certainly
the firft navigators who in the fame year, have gone
as far as Mount St. Elias, after vifiting Eafter Ifland,
the Sandwich Iflands, and inveftigated feveral other
points in geography. Our chaits, plans, and journals,
the tables of our route, &c. will fufficiently prove, we
* The fkins were fold for 10,000 piaftres, for the benefit of: the
(res. French Editor,
have
398 CORRESPONDENCE OF
have neglected nothing that could contribute to the
accuracy of our various labours.
The part of our tafk that remains to be executed
this year, is the moit difficult. The information we
could obtain of China, concerning the coaft of that
empire we are going to furvey, extends only certainly
to confirm the violence of the currents in thofe ftraits,
and to afliire us we fhall meet with feveral banks, and
almoft continual fogs.
But, perfuaded that patience and perfevering in-
duftry will conquer all things, thefe obftacles only
ferve to inflame my ardour, and I place the greatefi
confidence in my good fortune.
Awatfcha, 10th Sept. 1787,
I WRITE to you, my dear friend, without any
order, only determining not to omit any thing.
The minifter muft alrcady have received by the
hands of M. Dufrefne, the particulars of our voyage,
fince our departure from France till our arrival at
Macao; and by M. Leffeps I tranfmit the fequel of
the narrative from Macao to Kamtfchatka.
I hope you will be pleafed with that part of our
voyage between Macao and Kamtfchatka. It is the
moft novel, the moft interefting, and on account of
the continual fogs which prevail in thefe latitudes,
certainly the moft difficult. Thefe fogs were {0
great, that I have been obliged to confume 150 days
in exploring that part of the coaft which Captain
King, in the third volume of Captain Cook’s laft voy-
age, fuppofed might be furveyed in two months.
Yet I have only refted three days in Baie de Ternai,
two in Langle Bay, and five in Caftrics’ Bay. I have
therefore not loft any time; nor have I neglected to
fail round the Ifland of Chicha, paffing through the
Strait of Sangaar. I could have wifhed to have a
chore
ntribute to the
to be executed
nformation we
e coaft of that
only certainly
in thofe firaits,
eral banks, and
perfevering in-
; obftacles only
ce the greateft
Oth Sept. 1787.
d, without any
ny thing.
eceived by the
of our voyage,
| our arrival at
t the fequel of
atka.
hat part of our
atka. It is the
1 on account of
thefe latitudes,
e fogs were {fo
fume 150 days
which Captain
ook’s laft voy-
two months.
Baie de Ternai,
s Bay. Ihave
I neglected to
ng through the
1ed to have an-
chored
M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 309
chored off the northern point of Japan, and fhould,
perhaps, have rifked fending a boat afhore, although
{uch a ftep required ferious confideration, as it pro-
bably might have been detained. Such an accident,
though to a merchant fhip but of little importance,
might be confidered as a national infult, when offer-
ed to the boat of a fhip in his majefty’s fervice. To
feize and burn a few fampanes, would have been a
poor retaliation, upon a people who would not ex-
change one European of whom they wifhed to make
an example, for a hundred Japanefe. However that
may be, I had no opportunity to make the experi-
ment, and it is impoffible to fay, at this moment, what
I fhould have done, had it been feafible.
It would be difficult to depict the fatigues we have
undergone, in this part of our voyage, during all
which I have not been undreffed, or enjoyed four
nights without being obliged to walk the deck for
feveral hours. Figure to yourfelf fix days of fog,
with only two or three hours of clear weather, in the
narroweft feas, abfolutely unknown, where the ima-.
gination exaggerating the information we had re-
ceived, painted to itfelf danger and currents, where
fometimes they had no exiftence. From the point
where we landed, on the eaftern coaft of Tartary, to
the ftrait we difcovered between the ifland of Tcho-
ka, and that of Chicha, we omitted not the bearings of
one point, and you may be affured, not a creek,
a harbour, or a river, has efcaped us. You may alfo
be confident, that there are many charts of European
coafts, lefs accurate than thofe we fhall bring home
at our return *, ‘The chart annexed to this difpatch,
is in a manner only a fketch, very carefully made in-
deed, but in which the pofition of. fome points may
of thofe we poffefs, confiderably diminifhes the lofs geography has
to deplore. —French Editer.
va ry
* Unfortunately thefe charts have not arrived, having fhared —
the fate of our enterprifing navigators. But what la Péroufe fays.
400 CORRESPONDENCE OF
vary from the exact truth, about 10 or 12 minutes of
longitude. |
We have then at length decided the famous quef.
tion concerning Jeflo, Oku-Jeflo, the Strait of
Tefloy, &c. with which geographers have been fo
long occupied. Neither have I neglected any thing
that could offer a true idea of the people who inhabit
thefe iflands and the continent.
The Ruflians have thought it moft convenient to
efface thefe iflands from their charts, though they
are ten times as extenfive as their Kurile Iflands,
which are nothing more than barren rocks, whofe po-
pulation does not exceed 3,000. The fogs prevented
me from laying down the Kuriles to the northward of
Mareckan, as far as Point Lopatka. But propofeto
furvey them on leaving the bay of Awatfcha, though it
appears unimportant, the Englifh having determined
the point of Paramoufir, and ourfelves that of the
north of Marcckan. ‘The iflands between thefe two
points cannot be placed on the chart with any great
error.
. You will perceive that our labours on this coaft,
connect afionifhingly well with thofe of the Dutch,
whofe navigation is, perhaps, the moft exact of any,
up to the time of the Kaftricum’s voyage. You will
find among the papers I fend the minifter, the chart
you gave me, of the difcoveries of Captain Vrics,
That navigator did not fufpect there was any fea be-
hind the land he was coafling, and, ftill lefs any ftrait
to the northward of the village of Acqucis, before
which he was at anchor. From his relation it night
be inferred, that the people of Tchoka and Chicha,
were abfolutely the fame, fince quitting Acqueis, and
arriving at Aniva, he did not fufpeét he was no long-
_er on the fame ifland.
Another advantage arifing to us from the Dutch
voyage, is its having furnifhed us with the breadth of
the ifland of Tchoka, as far as Cape Patience, and even.
. beyond ;
Bn hh ae ee OL PETER CORP CT EP Le CT ee | .
D ON GT DR + UP
12 minutes of
e famous quef.
the Strait of
; have been fo
éted any thing
le who inhabit
convenient to
, though they
Kurile Iflands,
cks, whofe po-
fogs prevented
ie northward of
But I propofe to
fcha, though it
ing determined
es that of the
ween thefe two
with any great.
on this conf,
ofthe Dutch,
exact of any,
age. You will
ifter, the chart
Captain Vrics.
vas any fea be-
1 lefs any firait
Acqueis, before
lation it might
a and Chicha,
p Acqueis, and
e was no long-
om the Dutch
the breadth of
ence, and even.
beyond ;
M. DE LA PÉROUSE, 7 401
beyond ; for the longitudes taken by the Dutch, from
the-meridian of Cape Nabo are nearly exact.
On your chart, which I fend the minifter, I have
drawn the ftrait we difcovered, through the midft of
the Dutch mountains, and have traced our route in
fight of Staten Ifland, from the {trait of Vries; and
Companiy’s Land. à Jae sie
In reading my nartative with the chart before you,
you will furely remark, that I might have fol-
lowed the coaft of Corea as far as the 424 degree.
This would have been a much eafier, and per-
haps a more brilliant undertaking, than that I have
performed; but I thought it more important,. to
determine with accuracy, a point of Japan which
would give us the breadth of the fea of Tartary, and
alfo that of the ifland from Cape Nabo. I am fure you
willapprove what I have done, while you regret as I do,
that circumftances did not permit me more complete-
ly to explore the coaft of Japan. But, my dear
friend, do not forget while examining the operations
of our voyage, do not, I befeech you forget, thofe
everlafting fogs, that would not permit me to do in
a month; what in the fine fkies under the tropics,
might have been effected in three days. Recolleét
alfo, that without the beneficial ftorm, which in
the flraits of Tartary, gave us 48 hours of northerly
winds, we fhould not have arrived this year, in
Kamtfchatka. ae
Though we have not accomplifhed every thing, I
am convinced, more could fcarcely have been per-
formed. Our voyage may now, therefore, hold the
next rank to the Englifh ; though I did not hope fo
much on my return from the coaft of America, fince
we were compelled to run over it fo rapidly. But fe-
veral expeditions will fcarcely be fufficient to give
the particulars, even from Crofs Sound to Port San
Francifco. Figure to yourfelf every league bays
whofe depth cannot be meafured, becaufe their heads
Vou. II. Dd are
402 CORRESPONDENCE OF
are beyond the reach -of fight ; currents like thofe of
le Four and Je Raz on the coaft of Brittany, and fogs
almoft perpetual. Hence you will conclude that a
whole feafon is fcarcely fufficicnt for completcly ex-
ploring in ve point, even 20 leagues of fuch a
coaft, nor would I engage to give an exact and parti-
cular account, after fix months labour, of the coun.
try between Crofs Sound and Port Bucarelli, fill lef
as far as Cape Hedlor, which would require feveral
years. I have therefore been compelled to attempt
nothing more, than to lay down the latitudes and lon.
gitudes of the principal capes, to trace and delineate
the true direction of the coaft, from one point to
another, and determine the geographical pofition of
the iflands that lie feveral leagues diftant from the
continent. The vaft plan of our voyage did not
permit me to undertake any greater operation,
Captain Cook has, perhaps, not even done fo much
on this coaft. Not that I would in the leaft detract
from the merit of that celebrated navigator ; but, op-
pofed by contrary winds, and like me, confined with-
in certain limits of time, which prevented him from
extending his difcoveries, he failed at a greater dif-
tance from the coaft, than circumftances made it ne-
ceffary for me io do; and when he approached it in
the neighbourhood of Cook’s River, and Prince Wil-
liam’s Sound, it was with an expectation, which
though I think it ill founded, he never abandoned,
of getting away to the northward, and running after
his favourite object, a paflage into Baffin’s Bay or
Davis's Strait. His furvey of Prince William’s Sound,
ftill leaves much to be defired; but I muñ repeat,
that fuch inveftigations require much more time,
than either he or I could devote to our refearches.
At Manilla, I procured the journal ofa voyage, by
the famous Spanifh pilot Don Francifco Antonio
Maurillo, ‘on the N. W. coaft of America. Thus,
adding his journal to-that-of the firft voyage of the
| | Spaniards
i ee ae ae
te OO où
HEC TSS He
ts like thofe of
ttany, and fo
en that’,
completcly ex-
rues of fuch a
xact and parti-
r, of the coun.
carelli, ftill lef
require feveral
led to attempt
titudes and lon-
e and delineate
m one point to
tical pofition of
iftant from the
voyage did not
eater operation.
1 done fo much
the leaft detract
igator ; but, op-
, confined with-
rented him from
at a greater dif-
ces made it ne-
approached it in
and Prince Wil-
eétation, which
ever abandoned,
d running after
Baffin’s Bay or
illiam’s Sound,
t I mufi repeat,
uch more time,
ur refearches.
il of a voyage, by
ancifco Antonio
America. ‘Thus,
voyage of the
. Spaniards
M. DE LA PEROUSE. 403
Spaniards in thofe parts, which Mr, Barrington has
publifhed in his Mifcellanies, and of which I have a
tranflated extract among the notes you were pleafed
to collect for m inftragtion, we are pofleffed of ail
the fecrets of Maurillo. I left this navigator at Man-
illa, in the command of one of the veflels belonging
to the New Company, deftined for a coafting voy-
age from Cavita to Canton. I fend you a very par-
ticular chart of Port Bucarelli and the neighbourin
iflands, which I procured at Manilla. The Spaniards
in their fecond voyage, penctrated as far as Prince
William’s Sound, and thinking themfelves on the
coaft of Kamtfchatka, were every inftant afraid of
being attacked by the Ruffians. I do not fend you
their general chart, becaufe in fact it would rather
retard than advance the progrefs of geography. Do
they wifh to deceive others, or do they deceive them-
felves ? Be this as it may, they only faw the land
near Port Bucarelli, and at the entrance of Prince
William’s Sound.
To the charts of this fecond part of my voyage, I
] have added particular plans drawn by M. Blondela,
one of the lieutenants of the Aftrolabe, who works
with an affiduity, intelligence, order, and neatnefs,
deferving the higheft encomiuins.
You will find among the plans nine very accurate
drawings from the hand of M. Duché. To thefe M.
Blondela has added a view of the harbour of St. Peter
and St. Paul, taken at a different point of view from
that inferted in Captain Cook’s third voyage, and a
collection of drawings of the different failing veflels
ufed by the various people whom we have vifited.
This colleAion is very interefting, and deferves to be
engraved. | :
I fhall leave Awatfcha on the firft of Oétober,
where we have been reccived with the greateft marks
of affegtion ; but. the fhip from Okhotfk has probably
D d 2 been
404 CORRESPONDENCE OF
been loft in the paflage*, and the Governor of
Kamtfchatka, though extremely willing, has not been
able to fupply us with a fingle cheft of flour. This
want will ob ige me to put into Guaham, for the pur-
pofe of procuring a fupply there.
The following is the future plan of my voyage, fub-
ject however, from time to time, to the change of
circumftances and events that cannot be forefeen,
You know IJ have already inverted a part of the
firft plan laid down in my inftrutions; in conformi-
ty to the permiffion I received. I thought it would
be more expeditious to begin with the northern he-
mifphere, and conclude with that of the fouth, as
my courfe muft terminate by putting into the Ifle
of France, fituated to the fouthward of the line. I
confefs 1 was alfo afraid of being anticipated by the
Englifh, who, previous to my departure, had an-
nounced the project of a new voyage of difcovery. |
was particularly apprehenfive for the coaft of Tartary,
&c. the only abfolutely unknown part I was deftined
to explore, and where I would not, for any confidera-
tion. in the world have been anticipated.
On quitting Awatfcha I fhall direét my courfe to
the Kuriles, and endeavour to determine the pofi-
tion of thofe iflands as far as the Canal de la Boufiole.
I fhall then run down the parallel of 37°, to fearch for
the land faid to have been difcovered by the Spa-
niards in 1610, I fhall next afcend again to the
northward of the Marianas, and the archipelago of
the latter as far as Guaham, where I fhall put in to
procure provifions. I fhall only pafs five days at
Guaham, and then direct my courfe to the Carolines.
Should I fee a profpeét, after quitting thefe iflands,
of making Cape Choifeul, in the Terre des Arfacides
of Surville, and of pafling through Bougainville's
Strait; 1 fhall then run to the northward, where!
‘may fall in with the wefterly winds, &c.
* See the journal of M. Lefleps.——French Editor.
e Governor of
g, has not been
of flour. This
im, for the pur-
my voyage, fub-
o the change of
t be forefeen.
da part of the
18; in conformi-
hought it would
he northern he-
of the fouth, as
ng into the Ifle
1 of the line. I
nticipated by the
parture, had an-
ze of difcovery. I
coaft of Tartary,
rt I was defined
or any confidera-
bated.
ect my courfe to
ermine the pofi-
al de la Bouffole.
37°, to fearch for
red by the Spa-
nd again to the
1e archipelago of
I fhall put in to
pafs five days at
e to the Carolines.
ing thefe iflands,
erre des Arfucides
rh Bougainvilles
nthward, where I
&c.
French Editor.
M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 405
If, on the contrary, from the information I receive
at Guaham, and my obfervations during the pafläge,
I fhall be convinced that by making the Cuarolines
we fhould run too much to windward to arrive at
New Zealand by the 1ft of February, 1788, I thall
abandon the Carolines, as being of little importance,
and fteer as much to the caftward as poffible. I
fhall vifit every thing I meet with in my way;
and this track, which is abfolutely new, muft occa-
fion me to fall in with fome unknown iflands, per-
haps of much greater confequence than the Caro-
lines. Either plan will permit to arrive, about the 1 ft
of February, in Queen Charlotte’s Straits. Thence
I fhall employ fix months in exploring the Friendly
Iflands to procure refrefhments, the fouth-wettern
coaft of New Caledonia, the ifland of Santa Cruz de
Mendana, the fouthern coaft of La Terre des Arfa-
cides, and La Louifiade, as far as New Guinea, where
I fhall feek for another channel than the Endeavour
Straits. I fhall employ the months of Auguft, Sep-
tember, and part of October, in vifiting the gulph of
Carpentaria, and the weft coaft of New Holland,
but fo managing my operations that I may eafily
afcend to the northward to reach the tropic, and ar-
rive at the Ifle of France by the end of November.
Quitting the Ifle of France, about the 25th of
December, 1788, I fhall fteer for Cape Circumcifion,
whence I fhall return to France, touching at the
Cape of Good Hope or not, according to circum-
flances ; and I hope to arrive in Breft in June 1789,
forty-fix or forty-feven months after my departure
from that port.
This is my new plan, in which you will fee that I
cannot introduce either the coaft of New Holland,
or Van Dieman’s Land, whence I could not make
the Ufle of France, on account of the wefterly winds,
without going entirely round the whole of the former.
That courfe appears far too long and impracticable :
: Dd3 the
\
406 CORRESPONDENCE OF
the ftate of our rigging, and even of our fhips, would
not permit me to undertake it.
I have made no mention of the Society Iflands,
becaufe they are fo well known already as no longer
to attract curiofity ; and it is perhaps meritorious in
a commander, certainly it is for the benefit of his
crews, to make the circuit of the world without
touching at Otaheite. You know alfo that the So-
ciety and Friendly Iflands, and thofe of Mendana,
and others already well known, were only inferted in
my inftructions as refources, leaving me at liberty, in
cafe of need, to put in at thefe iflands, for the pur-
pofe of procuring refrefhments ; but I either can or
will do without them. I fhall not, however, forget
that you recommended it to me as important to the
improvement of geography, to determine the true po-
fition of fome of the points furveyed by Lord Car-
teret, in order to have certain data for correcting
the errors in the reckoning throughout the courfe of
that navigator, who was deftitute of time-keepers,
and feems to have made very few aftronomical obfer-
vations.
The fame Francifco Antonio Maurillo, the
Cook of the Spaniards, though, in my opinion,
far inferior to that circumnavigator, made a third
voyage, in the commencement of the year 1781,
from Manilla to North America, where he intended
to reach a high fouthern latitude, that he might af-
terwards get to the eaftward with the wefterly winds
that blow in the neighbourhood of New Zealand;
but for want of provifions he could not execute his
plan, and was obliged to run to the northward, to-
wards the Marianas, where he took the ufual track
of the galleons to arrive at San Blas. I fend you the
journal of this third voyage, in which Maurillo fup-
poled he had made feveral difcoveries, only becaute
e was unacquainted with thofe of the modern na-
vigators.” At firft I wifhed to keep this journal, to
afcertain
our fhips, would
Society Iflands,
dy as no longer
s meritorious in
> benefit of his
world without
Ifo that the So-
fe of Mendana,
only inferted in
me at liberty, in
Is, for the pur-
.I either can or
however, forget
mportant to the
nine the true po-
1 by Lord Car-
\ for correcting
ut the courfe of
of time-keepers,
ronomical obfer-
Maurillo, the
in my opinion,
r, made a third
the year 1781,
ere he intended
at he might af-
e wefterly winds
New Zealand ;
not execute his
northward, to-
the ufual track
I fend you the
th Maurillo fup-
es, only becaufe
the modern na-
) this journal, to
afcertain
M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 407
afcertain whether Maurillo had aétually difcovered
any. new land in the vicinity of the Friendly Iflands,
where the natives inforin us there exift a great num-
ber of others, which they are themfelves acquainted
with, but which Europeans have not reconnoitred ;
but, on examination, I found it would only lead me
into error. The chart is an undigefted chaos of con-
fufion, the narrative ill arranged, the longitudes de-
duced from a reckoning more erroneous than total
uncertainty, and the latitudes very ill obf:rved,
I have procured an excellent chart of Manilla,
and fome other interefting plans. You will readily
believe it was not without great difficulty, and mak-
ing fome facrifices, I have fuccceded in obtaining
them ; for you know the Spaniards are far from com-
municative, though, in fait, they have more to learn
than they can teach. Other maritime nations have
been eager to publifh to all Europe what thefe peo-
ple would have veiled from our fight in r:yfterious
obfcurity. At Manilla I had occafion to confirm
the opinion I had formed of their pufillanimous
and ufelefs circumfpection. The governor of the
ifland is in poffeffion of a chart from Manilla and
Kamtfchatka, which, on the flightcft infpection, I
difcovered to be nothing more than the French chart
of Bellin, on a larger fcale. You know the cha-
rafer of our hydrographer, and the errors of this
chart, lefs accurate perhaps than any other of the
fame author. The governor would not permit
me to infpect it but for a moment, and at fome dif-
tance, fo great was his fear left my mere fhould be
good enough to get a copy of it made from recol-
leétion. I thought his apprehenfions fo puerile, that
forgetting for the moment his importance, I could
not refrain from telling him, that in a little time I
fhould know more than he or his charts could ever
teach me.
If you will take the trouble of afcertaining the
D d 4 aggregate
AO8 CORRESPONDENCE OF
aggregate of my flay in port, fince the If of
Auguft, 1785, the time of my departure from Breft,
to the 7th of September, 1787, when I arrived at
Kamtfchatka, you will fec, that in that interval }
have employed only five months and thirteen days in
the different harbours, and twenty-five months in na-
vigation. You will learn alfo with pleafure, that not-
withftanding the fatigues and privations infeparable
from fo long a nayigation, not a fingle man has died
on board my fhip, and nor have we a man fick.
The Aftrolabe has loft one officer, but his death was
occafioned by his own imprudence, and by no means
a confequence of the fatigues and dangers of the
voyage. You may be affured the attention of Cap-
tain Cook to his crew was not greater or more
conftant than is inceflantly paid by M. de Langle
and myfelf, to the prefervation of the valuable men
who participate our labours ; and if at the end of our
voyage we continue to enjoy the fame good fortune,
we fhall add another inftance to thofe adduced by
Cook, to prove that with care and judicious regi-
men, feamen may be preferved from fcurvy and other
difeafes, apparently infeparable from a long continu-
ance at fea; but thefe repeated experiments will
afford no conclufion, applicable to fhips of the line,
with 800, ‘000, or 1200 men, often recruited with
convalefcents from hofpitals, and whom it is impofli-
ble to feed in the fame manner as a crew of 100
men, chofen for a particular expedition, on Moifar,
flour of the firft quality, and Cahors or Teneriffe
wines, at 600 livres the tun, or to adminifter all
the antifcorbutics which the fciences of medi-
cine and natural hiftory have combined. It muft
alfo be obferved, that the fmall fpace allotted toa
great number of men on board large fhips, does not
admit of ‘a large roomy hammock for each ; and that
the officers are not fufficiently numerous to extend
their infpection, however active it may be, to every
particular
> the 1f nf
re from Breft,
I arrived at
at interval |
irteen days in
months in na-
ure, that not-
1s infeparable
man has died
a man fick.
his death was
by no means
ingers of the
ntion of Cap-
iter or more
1. de Langle
valuable men
he end of our
good fortune,
e adduced by
idicious regi-
rvy and other
ong continu-
eriments will
ps of the line,
ecruited with
it is impofñli-
A crew of 100
, on Moiffac,
s or Teneriffe
adminitter all
s of medi-
‘d. It muft
allotted toa
ips, does not
ch ; and that
bus to extend
y be, to every
particular
M. DE LA PEROUSE. 40Q
articular item, apparently minute and trifling; fuch
as making the failors regularly change their linen,
to preferye thefe brave fellows from the indolence na-
tural to man with regard to the cleanlinefs of his
perfon ; a fpecics of indolence which is rarely over-
come, but when roufed to fupport fatigue, or to en-
counter difficulty and danger.
In addition to all thefe various and continual cares, _
I have been attentive to touch at every place where I
could be affured of procuring excellent provifion for
my crews, without regarding the expence, as at La
Conception, Chili, Monterey in California, Macao,
Manilla, &c. I was of opinion that it was a part of
the difcoveries to be made in this expedition to afcer-
tain whether men perfectly well fed and well at-
tended to, can fuftain the fatigues of the longeft na-
vigations, under all climates, in all latitudes, in the
midft of fogs, and under a burning fun. At prefent
I can anfwer in the affirmative; but my voyage is
yet far from concluded. May our conftant. cares
and unceafing zeal be ever recompenfed with the like
fuccefs ! ;
STS
é a
Awatfcha, 25th Sept. 1787.
1 SEND you, my dear friend, a memoir written by
M. Rollin, furgeon of the Bouflole. When you have
read it, you will doubtlefs be of opinion, that it
ought to conftitute a part of the collection of
memoirs and other works, which our learned men
refpectively prepare, according to their various de-
partments. M. Rollin is a man of the moft exalted
merit. In twenty-fix months, he has neither loft a
fingle man, nor has at prefent one fick individual
under his care. He is unremittingly occupied in
examining, preferving, and improving our provifions,
and in general every branch of preventive medicine,
which
410 CORRESPONDENCE OF
which I efteem infinitely more beneficial than the
curative.
Annexed is a table of the latitudes and longitudes
of the various points of our chart of the Archipelago
of Corea, Eaftern Tartary, &c. The longitudes are
corrected for each het te from a mean of longi-
tudes obtained by lunar obfervations, taken when
the moon was to the eaftward, and longitudes deduc-
ed when it was to the weftward of the fun. In thofe
different cafes we have always found a difference
of from 20 to 26 minutes in the refults on board
each fhip. This can only be attributed to an error
in the tables : which, in the opinion of M. Dagelet,
require correction. In general, you muft confider
our prefent accounts of this part of our voyage, as
yather an unfinifhed work, requiring, perhaps, fome
trifling revifion. |
We have found here the tomb of M. de Lifle de
Ja Croyére, on which I have placed an infcription,
engraved on copper. It is, perhaps, unknown in
France, that this learned man married in Ruffia,
and has left a family, who enjoy all the confideration
due to the memory of their anceftor. His grand fon
is counfellor of the Siberian mines, a place which
produces him confiderable emolument.
ENED
Awatfcha, Sept. 28, 1787.
I WRITE to you again, my dear friend, to inform
you of the receipt of the letters, which have arrived
by the way of Okhotfk, on the eve of my departure*.
I am treated with fuch kindnefs and diftinétion, as
neither my zeal nor my fervices can ever deferve.
* His commiffion of Chef d’efcadre was inclofed in thefe letters.
which the Ruffian court had undertaken to convey tu him at Kamtf-
chatka.—Prench Editer. Th
€
icial than the
ind longitudes
e Archipelago
longitudes are
nean of longi-
s, taken when
ritudes deduc-
fun. In thofe
1 a difference
ults on board
ed to an error
of M. Dagelct,
muft confider
our voyage, as
perhaps, fome
M. de Lifle de
an infcription,
. unknown in
ied in Ruffia,
e confideration
His grand fon
a place which
bept. 28, 1787.
end, to inform
th have arrived
vy departure*.
diftinétion, as
er deferve.
fed in thefe letters.
y ty him at Kamtf-
The
M. DAGELET. All
The orders I have juft received, will make no
alteration in the future plan of my voyage, only that
I fhall put into Botany Bay, on the eaftern coaft of
New Holland. This ufeful object I fhould have
miffed, had I begun with the fouthern hemifphere.
But the chief advantage Î derive from my prefent
courfe, is that Iam now certain of not being anti-
cipated by any Englith fhip on the coaft of Tartary,
&c. I know thofe fent from India have paffed to
the cafiward of Japan. The largeft of them was loft
on Copper Ifland, near that of Behring, and only
two of her men faved, with whom I had fome
converfation, before they were fent to Pcterfburgh
by land.
The veffel conftructing at Okhotfk, intended by
the Ruffians for a voyage of difcovery in thefe feas,
is fcarccly on the ftocks, and poffibly may not be
ready for fea in lefs than three or four years.
Adieu, I fhall depart to-morrow in good health,
as well as my whole crew. We would fail round
the world fix times over, if our voyage could afford
either advantage or pleafure to our native country.
FROM M. DAGELET.
Botany Bay, February 5, 1788.
I HAVE given M. de la Péroufe, to be inclofed
in his detters to the minifter, a table, containing the
longitudes and latitudes, by obfervation on board,
between our departure from Kamtfchatka and the
day of our anchoring in Botany Eay. ‘The commo-
dore has inftructed me to give vou fome account of
this part of our performance, and 1 fhall comply with
his requeft, though perhaps unnecefläry, with the
more pleafure, as it will be rather an opportunity of
recominending myfelf to your friendfhip and recol-
leGion, than a ufeful aftronomical diflertation.
I have
412 CORRESPONDENCE OF
I have divided the table into four columns. The
firft includes the daily longitude, by the time-keeper
N° 19, taking its rate as determined at the Bay of
Awatfcha. The fecond column includes the correc-
tions neceffary to be made in thefe longitudes, to
obtain the exact longitude, as we have determined
it at different times, by a great number of fets of
lunar obfervations. I have endeavoured to execute
them with all the accuracy poffible, from a few days
preceding our making Navigators’ Ifland, till our
arrival at Botany Bay ; and I think thcre is very little
uncertainty in any thing regarding the truly geo-
graphical points of the Jands we have feen. The
third column exhibits the true longitudes, and the
fourth the latitudes carefully determined. |
FROM M. DE LA PÉROUSE.
| Botany Bay, February 7, 1788.
IT feems decreed by fate that I fhall never have
any thing, my dear friend, but misfortunes to relate
to you; and that my utmoft prudence muft con-
ftantly be fruftrated, by events impoñlible to be fore-
feen, but of which I have always had a kind of
fecret prefentiment. I confefs I have to reproach
myfelf for having yielded, almoft in fpite of myfelf,
on that unfortunate day, the 11th of December laf,
to the importunity, I might even fay the uncom-
mon obftinacy of M. de Langle, who aflerted that
frefh water, waier newly cafked, was the beft antif-
corbutic, and that his crew would be all attacked
with the fcurvy !:.fore our arrival at New Holland,
if he did not provide himfelf with frefh water. I
have arrived here, however, without a fick man,
though our crews have drunk nothing but old water;
and I am convinced that water, if it be Boos 1
equally
lumns. The
e time-keeper
at the Bay of
es the correc-
ongitudes, to
e determined
ber of fets of
"4 to execute
m a few days
land, till our
e is very little
he truly geo-
e feen. The
| es and the
d.
uary 7, 1788.
1 never have
unes to relate
e muft con-
ble to be fore-
ad a kind of
e to reproach
bite of myfelf,
ecember laf,
the uncom-
aflerted that
he beft antif-
all attacked
ew Holland,
fh water. I
a fick man,
ut old water;
be good, is
equally
M. DE LA PÉROUSE, 413
equally falubrious, whether new or old*. In m
narrative you will read the particulars of the unfor-
tunate event at the Iflands of Navigators, which
has fo deeply affected my fenfibility that it would be
a torture to relate it again. You will furely think
it inconceivable that a man of the greateft good
fenfe, the matureft judgment, full of information,
and poffeffed of every kind of knowledge, fhould
refer an unfafe place, ‘where his long-boats were
left dry by the ebb of the tide, to a well-known
extenfive bay, where the water was excellent. Two
thoufand Indians, who furrounded. them, tore their
boats to pieces, after maflacring all the men who
had not time to take refuge in the boats that lay
afloat at the edge of the reefs ; while the fhips were
peaceably bartering with the natives, two lcagues in
the offing, where moft afluredly we were far from
fufpecting the probability of fuch an accident.
Thirty Indians were killed on (hore, on that fatal
day, by the people of our long-boats, when they
found themfelves attacked ; and had I not reftrained
the juft fury of our crews, they might have maffa-
cred 500 more, who were difperfed over our two
fhips, or crowding the canoes that furrounded them.
Thefe canoes, which werc bartering along-fide in per-
fect fecurity, might have been funk ; but I thought
that fuch barbariiy would neither repair our misfor-
tune, nor confole us for our lofs; and it is not
admiffible to commit violence but when abfolutely
neceflary.
Near this part of the coaft, where the village du
Maffacre is fituated, I could find only a bad bottom
ofcoral. The fwell alfo fet right in fhore, and I am
* Tt is faid to be a general faét, that in long voyages the officers
prefer for their own ufe the water fhipped at the port of their
equipment, to any they procure afterwards, and that they drink
the former to the end of the expedition.
certain
Ala CORRESPONDENCE OF
certain our cables could not have refifted it during
two hours. The fhips might then have been
arte in the moft imminent danger, without its
ing poffible for them to approach within gun fhot
of that deteftable little bay. Nor did I think the
pleafure of burning five or fix huts fufficient to in-
duce me to put the fafety of the two fhips fo much
at hazard. I believe, however, that I could not have
refufed attempting it, if I had entertained a hope
of retaking our long-boats ; but the favages, after
having almoft deftroyed them, had run their wrecks
upon the beach.
You will be glad to find that fuch a misfortune
has not made any change in the future plan of my
voyage. But it has, however, prevented me from
completely exploring the Archipelago of Navigators,
which I think more confiderable, more populous, and
more abounding in provifions, than the Society
Iflands, including Otaheite, and ten times more cx-
tenfive than all the Friendly Iflands together. We
have got fight of the Archipelago of Vavao, adjoin-
ing the latter, and which the Spanifh pilot Maurillo
fell in with ; but of which he has ftated the longitude.
fo erroncoufly, that to place it on the charts accord-
ing to his flatement, would only be introducing ad-
ditional confufion. Navigators may be guarded from
all uncertainty in this refpect by our obfervations,
or rather thofe of Capt. Cook, who has fo well de-
fcribed the clufter of Hapaec, that it is impoffible not
to perceive their identity with the Mas de Galvez of
Muuriilo.
You will find in my narrative, that I have feen
Pylftaart and Norfolk Iflands, and that I am arrived
at Botany Bay, without a man fick on board either
of the fhips ; the flight fimptoms of fcurvy that ap-
peared having yielded to the frefh provifions I ob-
tained at the Iflands of Navigators. I am certain
that the fea air is not the principal caufe of this
difeafe,
led it during
have been
_ without its
thin gun fhot
I think the
fficient to in-
hips fo much
ould mot have
ained a hope
favages, after
1 their wrecks
a misfortune
e plan of my
ted me from
of Navigators,
populous, and
1 the Society
imes more Cx-
ogether. We
avao, adjoin-
pilot Maurillo
the longitude
harts accord-
itroducing ad-
guarded from
r obfervations,
as fo well de-
impoffible not
de Galvez of
at I have feen
t I am arrived
board either
urvy that ap-
rovifions I ob-
I am certain
caufe of this
difeafe,
M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 415
difeafe, but that it ought rather to be attributcd to
the bad air between the decks, when not frequently
renewed, and fill more to the bad quality of the
provifions, Can it be fuppofed that bifcuit, worm-
eaten and refembling a bec-hive, as it fometimes is;
meat, the fubftance of which is corroded with an
acrimonious falt, and pulfe abfolutely dry and de-
cayed, can repair the daily wafte of the body? The
decompofition of the humours of the blood, is a
natural confequence of the want of nutriment. I
therefore confider fpirit of fcurvy-grafs, and all the
remedies contained in the furgeon’s cheft, as mere
momentary palliatives; frefh provifions, and frefh
provifions alone, whether animal or vegetable, cure
the {curvy fo radically, that our crews, after liv-
ing only a month on pigs, procured at Navigators’
Iflands, have arrived at Botany Bay in better health
than when they left Breft; though they pafled
only twenty-four hours on fhore in the Ifland of
Maouna. It is my opinion that malt, fpruce beer,
wine, coffee, fauer-kraut, &c. are antifcorbutics only
becaufe thofe fubftances, whether liquids or folids,
are fubject to very little alteration, and confiitute a
proper aliment for man. They are not, however,
alone fufficient to cure the fcurvy, though I think
they may retard it, and with that view the ufe of
them cannot be too frequently recommended. I
regard as mere medical quackeries all the fixed airs,
&c. of the French and Englifh phyficians. Though
fwallowed by bottles full, and will not do feamen a
thoufandth part of the benefit they would receive
from good flices of roaft beef, beef fteaks, turtle,
fifh, fruit, vegetables, &c. |
My theory upon the fcurvy may be reduced to
the following aphorifms, which are certainly not de-
tived from Hippocrates :
Aliment of any kind, proper for man, and capable
of repairing the daily waite of the body.
The
116 CORRESPONDENCE OF
The pure air of the atmofphere, inttoducéd ag
often as poffible between the decks and into the
hold. ;
Counteracting; by almoft conftant fumigations,
and even by braziers of burning coals, the pernicious
humidity occafioned by the fogs.
Cleanlinefs, and a frequent infpection of the fai-
lors’ cloathing.
Regular exercife, and fufficient time for flecp,
without indulging floth.
I confefs I place no confidence in Capt. Cook's
obfervation coneerning the deterioration of water
in the cafks. I think that which is of a good
quality, when put on board, after undergoing the
two or three changes well known to all feamen,
which render it ftinking. for a few days, becomes
afterwards excellent, and perhaps as light as diftilled
water, all the hetcrogencous particles being precipi:
tated and fixed in fediment at the bottom of the
cafk. At the time I am now writing, though we
are very near a good watcring place, I drink the
water from Port des Français, on the coaft of Ame-
rica, and find it excellent. This falfe notion, in
which I never concurred, was the caufe of our
difafter at Maouna. But how could I oppofe an ex-
verienced captain, when he affured me all his crew
would be affected with fcurvy in lefs than a fort-
night, if they had not frefh water.*
| M. Dagelet
* A due variety of nutritious food, and an unrémitted attention
fo the non-naturals, are moft likely to produce and preferve a per-
{e& ftate of health. Thefe are rft, air; 2nd, meat and drink;
3d, exercife and reft; 4th, the paflions of the mind, (or moral
ftimuli); sth, excretion and retention, (including humidity); 6th,
fleep and waking, Of thefe the firft, fourth, arrd fifth, are moft
unwarrantably negle@ed. In very long voyages, atmofpheric air,
which is of the utmoft importance to life, as it is conftantly enter-
ing the fyftem, ought to be introduced between decks, by means
pi ventilators, of which White’s air machine is unqueftionably sis
beit;
atroduced af
and into the
furnigations,
he pernicious
on of the fai-
ne for flecp,
Capt. Cook's
ion of water
s of a good
dergoing the
) all feamen,
ays, becomes
ht as diftilled
being’ precipi:
ottom of the
g, though we
, I drink the
oaft of Ame-
fe notion, in
caufe of our
oppofe an ex-
e all his crew
than a fort-
M. Dagelet
emitted attention
d preferve a per-
eat and drink;
mind, (or moral
y humidity); 6th,
rid fifth, are moft
atmofpheric air,
conftantly enter-
decks, by means
nqueftionably the
beit ;
M. DE LA PÉROUSE. A17
M. Dagelet will write to yqu on the fubject of his
aftronomical obfervations, I fhall, therefore, not en-
ter into that fubject. It is fufficient for me to fay,
that the combination of our two methods, our lunar
obfervations, and our time-keepers, have completely
refolved the problem. Thus we have conftantly na-
vigated with lefs error in the longitude, than pre-
vailed ten years ago in the latitude, when obferva-
tions were made with wooden oétants, and perhaps
one fourth of the inaccuracy when the crofs ftaff and
old quadrant were ufed,
The death of M. de Langle will not make any
change on board the Aftrolabe, as to the aftrono-
mical obfervations. For near a year, M. de Laurifton,
who is a young officer of the firft merit, has had the
fole care of them. For accuracy he may, perhaps,
difpute the prize with our profeffed aftronomers ;
beft ; and fecretion and excretion, which require infinitely more
attention at fea than on fhore, are found to depend, in a wonderful
degree, on the moral ftimuli of amufement and pleafure.
t cannot be too often repeated that variety of ftimulus is highly
important to health; a remark equally interefting to thofe who
have, and thofe who have not the choice of their own food and
regimen, as children, failors, &c. Every drug lofes its power by
conftant ufe, of which opium is a familiar inftance, though one of
the ftrongeft ftimuli ever employed.
Life is a forced fate, depending on the ftimuli that give motion
to our frame, and the blood which is conftantly hurrying on to
fulfil the purpofes of its deftination, requires a conftant fupply of
its numerous component parts. If thefe are with-held, or the fac-
titious and tranfient ftimuli of fpirits and falt, fubftituted for
fubftances convertible into blood, the fkin, and other parts of the
body, cannot be fupplied and regenerated, cutaneous and fcorbutic
difeafes muft enfue, and the phenomena attributed to a difcrafis of
the blood will appear.
The fubftances moft eafily convertible into blood, are thofe
which have once exifted under that form, as milk, cheefe, butter,
and butcher’s meat ; alfo farinaceous vegetables, as pores peas,
&c. which are found to contain the principles of the fibrous and
mufcular parts of animals, (fee Fordyce on Digeftion); or laftly,
faccharine vegetables, or fuch as abound in fugar, as carrots,
parfaips, &c. Inattention to feveral of thefe caufes of health,
would account for the deftruction of all the fleets and armies in
the univerfe.—T7)an/lator.
Vor. IT, Ae and
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
q
14
1.25
il
A18 CORRESPONDENCE OF
and I know that his journal of obfervations is kept
with the greateft regularity. |
. The Englifh having fixed a fettlement at Port
Jackfon, lave entirely abandoncd Botany Bay.
I have formed a kind of entrenchment with palifa-
does, to conftruét our new boats in fecurity, which
will be completed by the end of the month. This
precaution was neceflary againft the Indians of New
Holland, who, though by no means ftrong or nu-
merous, are like all other favages, very treacherous ;
and would burn our boats if they had the means and
a favourable opportunity. They. threw fpears at us,
after having received our prefents and experienced
our kindnefs. My opinion of uncivilized nations
has been long fixed, and this voyage will but con-
firm it.
J'ai trop, à mes perils, appris à les connaître.
Yet even with thefe favages I am by no means fo
angry, as with the philofophers who extol them
with fo much enthufiafm. The unfortunate Lama-
non, who fell himfelf a victim to their perfidious
cruelty, told me, the very evening before his death,
that thefe wretches were better men than ourfelves.
Bound by duty rigidly to obferve the rules prefcribed
me, I have always ufed them with the greateft
lenity ; but, I confefs, were I to make a fecond
voyage of this kind, I would folicit different inftruc-
tions. À navigator, on quitting Europe, ought to
confider all favages (however weak) as enemies, whom
it would be ungenerous to attack unprovoked, and
barbarous to defiroy ; but againft whom he ought to
ufc every precaution, when fair fufpicions render it
juttifiable to aaticipate their attacks.
I have informed you already, by my letters from
Kamtfchatka, of the future plan I have been obliged
to adopt, in the further profecution of my voyage,
to arrive in Europe about the month of June, 1789.
Neither
he € SO M = 1h 1
A
mm FQ rs
ts QD © © gg
ons is kept
ent at Port
otany Bay.
with palifa-
arity, which
onth. This
ans of New
rong or nu-
treacherous ;
e means and
fpears at us,
experienced
ized nations
will but con-
onnaître.
\
no means fo
. extol them
unate Lama-
ir perfidious
ore his death,
an ourfelves.
les prefcribed
the greateft
tke a fecond
erent inftruc-
bpe, ought to
emies, whom
ovoked, and
he ought to
ons render it
y letters from
bcen obliged
jf my voyage,
f June, 1789.
Neither
M. DE LA PEROUSE. 419
Neither our provifions, our rigging, nor even our
fhips, ‘will permit us longer to protract our voyage,
which at leaft with refpect to the length of our
courfe, will be the moft confiderable in the annals
of navigation. Many interefting objects remain to
be explored, and many very mifchievous tribes to be
vifited *; on whom I will not promife but I may dif-
charge a few guns; for I am well convinced, that
fear alone can reftrain their treacherous intentions.
I fhall quit Botany Bay on the 15th of March, and
{hall lofe no time till the month of December, when
I hope to arrive at the Ifle of France.
In the fequel of my journal, you will find the plan
of the Iflands of Navigators. The natives enumerated
ten; and I think, to complete this archipelago, we
ought to include in it Quiros’s Ifland of the Hand-
fome Nation, the Cocoas, and that of the Traitors ;
but of this I am not entirely certain. The two laft
are very fmall, and of little importance, but I fhould
not be furprifed if the iflands of Maouna, Oyolava,
and Pola together, contain 400,000 inhabitants.
Maouna is much fmaller than the other two; and
yet in the fpace of 24 hours, we procured there 500
pigs, and a vaft quantity of fruit.
I could have wifhed to add to the chart of Navi-
gators’ Iflands, that of the archipelago of Friendly
Iflands, including the iflands of Vavao, Latte, &c.
but to my great regret it is not finifhed, and cannot
be réady before our departure. To fupply the place
of the chart, you will find, in the tables, the latitudes
and longitudes of thefe Iflands. Thefe are more ex-
act than thofe inferted in my narrative; which,
though hiftorical, has been written as the events oc-
cured, and the longitudes being inferted, before the
ultimate obfervations were taken, they may fometimes
require correction.
* Thofe of the iflands lying fouth-eaft of New Guinea, difcover-
’
ed by the French in 1768, and 1769. ;
rf Ee2 M. de
420 CORRESPONDENCE OF
M. de Clonard, at prefent commands the Afro.
labe ; and M. de Monti fills his place on board the
Bouflble. They are both of them officers of the
greateft merit. In M. de Langle we loft one indeed,
of fupcrior excellence. He poflefled moft valuable
qualities, and I know of no other fault in him but his
obftinacy, and” a tenacioufnefs of his own opinion,
which rendered it impoffible to avoid a quarrel, un-
lefs by complying. In this manner my laft permif-
fion, which was the caufe of his deftruction, was
rather wrefted from me than obtained. I fhould
never have yielded to his importunities, had the ac-
count he gave of the bay been accurate; nor can I
conceive how a man otherwife fo prudent, and en-
lightened could be fo grofsly miftaken.
You fee my, dear friend, that I am ftill extremely
affected by this event. In fpite of myfelf, it incef-
fantly recurs to my imagination. .
“mi O°} © Ga —
EXTRACTS.
From Letters written by M. de la Péroufe to M. de Ia
Touche, Affifant Director of the Ports, and Captain
in the French Navy; and from M. de Lamanon to
M. de Servières.
FROM M. DÉ LA PÉROUSE.
Macao, 6th January, 1787.
“Here I atm, my dear la Touche, fafe arrived at laft
in China, 18 months after my departure from France,
of which 15 have been employed at fea.
We have not loft any individual by ficknefs, and
there is not one man fick on board either of our
fhips ; but doubtlefs you are at this time acquainted
with the difafter we fuffered on the coaft of Ameri-
ca. For all the particulars of my voyage, I refer you
to. the complete narrative tranfmitted to the minifter.
| Although
ds the Afro.
on board the
fficers of the
ft one indeed,
moft valuable
n him but his
own opinion,
a quarrel, un-
y laft permif-
fruction, was
d. I fhould
s, had the ac-
te; nor can I
dent, and en-
till extremel y
yfelf, it, incef-
je to M. de lu
5, and Captain
de Lamanon to
January, 1787.
arrived at laft
> from France,
a.
ficknefs, and
either of our
ne acquainted
oaft of Ameri-
re, I refer you
> the minifter.
Although
M. DE LA FEROUSE. 421
Although we have already made almoft a complete
circuit round the globe, our expedition is ftill but in
itscommencement. As foon as the fine weather fets
in, I {hall depart from this place to run along the
coafts of China, and Tartary, up to Kamtfchatka: a
navigation certainly the moft difficult that can poffi-
bly be attempted. In the three or four a I have
been at Macao, I have collected fome information,
and they report that all the channels between China
and Japan, the coaft of Tartary and the Kuriles, are
full of fand banks, that the currents are extremely
violent, and the fogs almoft perpetual. Our tafk is
therefore not eafy ; but we will perform it, or perith
in the attempt. .
I have been anxious to fend the complete narrative
of my voyage up to our arrival at Macao, together
with our charts, that if any misfortune happens to
us, the fruits of this part of our expedition, which I
think interefting, may not be. loft to the world. I
expect to depart from this place for Manilla, by the
end of the month ; and from Manilla for Kamtfchat-
ka, on the 10th April. Adieu, accept the beft wifhes
of my heart,
Ce al
Kamtfchatka, Sept. 22d, 1787.
I HAVE already, my dear friend, made a voyage
nearly round the world, without receiving a letter
from you. I will not, however, accufe you, for none
of my other friends have written tome. Yet I mutt
complain, becaufe my difappointment renders me un-
happy, and it is at leaft allowable to give vent to for-
row. J fhall give you no particulars of my voyage,
becaufe you haye it in your power to fee the whole of
my narrative, and being a feaman, are more able than
any one to judge of the difficulties of every kind that
attend a navigation like that we have performed, in
the midft of currents, fogs, and forms, and among
Ee 3 tribes
A22 CORRESPONDENCE OF
tribes where ftrangers can neither land nor find fupplies,
in cafe of accident. No Europeans before ourfelves,
have paffed to the weftward of Japan. Though we
knew it was an ifland, we were ignorant whether the
firait that feparates it from Corea, was navigable for
large fhips. The accounts of Kempfer could only
excite the greatcft terror at a navigation in thefe feas,
of which he fpoke only from the relations given by
the Japanefe. The pretended ftrait. of Tefloy of
Father des Anges was not calculated to infpire much
confidence, fince he defcribed it as full of weeds,
which obftruét and render it impaffable for fhips.
We have deftroyed all thefe geographical chimeras,
difcovered a ftrait indifputably new, and at length ar-
rived at Kamtfchatka, whence I fhall depart for the
fouthern hemifphere on the firft of October 1787,
not expecting to arrive in France till the \month
of June 1780.
I have read, my dear friend, the new regulations,
and I folemnly declare it as my opinion, they are
perfect. I wifh that, like the ark of the Lord, it might
be forbidden by law to touch it for at leaft two cen-
turies, after the firft year, in the courfe of which fome
minifterial letters may be neceflary for itsinterpretation.
I find in it gardes de la marine educated for the fea;
officers who have nothing to think of but their duties
at fea, and directors who have only to attend to their
refpective occupations; troops formed to ferve ufe-
fully on board a fhip, where we may always have in-
fantry enough, when we have no war in Germany:
laftly a center of union in the commander. This
enfures the execution of the plan, which is the only
good, true and reafonable fyftem. What I have fo
long defired, I have at laft feen accomplifhed, that
is a commanding marine (of nobles,) and an aux-
iliary (mercantile) marine, whofe interefts have been
fo provided for as not to humiliate them, while the
education
proper! y
worth, p
YOU
fpondent
ever, kr
there.
from M:
regrette
not with
parture |
a day, :
Fifth to.
fhells to
ftones tc
make, ¢
plate.
multipli
activity
my lab
fome et
geologif
Betweer
exceffiv
climates
add our
gers we
confider
like reli;
tyrs. F
plies,
slves,
h we
Pr the
e for
onl
feas,
n by
by of
much
eeds,
fhips.
meras,
h ar-
r the
1787,
onth
itions,
ey are
might
D cen-
| fome
tation.
e fea;
duties
o their
e ufe-
ive in-
many :
This
e only
ave fo
|, that
1 aux-
. been
le the
cation
M. DE LAMANON. 423
education given to the young people will be fuch, as
to render them a little rough, but never haughty ; a
circumftance that will give them a firmnefs of cha-
racter. I could wifh to have been educated as the
new naval ftudents will be, whofe name has been very
properly changed; as nothing of the old fchool was
worth, preferving.
FROM M. DE LAMANON.
On the Chinefe Seas, \ff January, 1787.
YOU, my dear Serviéres, who have fo many corre-
fpondents, yet have none in China. You are, how-
ever, known to your advantage, and have. friends
there. Can you doubt it when you learn that it is
from Macao I now write? a thoufand times have I
regretted, and as often have I rejoiced, you were
not with us. The pleafure I have had fince our de-
parture has been great, I labour more than 12 hours
a day, and yet am fcarcely ever up to my work,
Fifh to diffect, animals to defcribe, infects to catch,
fhells to clafs, events to relate, mountains to meafure,
fones to collect, languages to ftudy, experiments to
make, a journal to write, and all nature to contem-
plate. For all, all this, my exiflence needs to be
multiplied in a twenty-fold ratio. With your
activity and health you would have participated
my labour and my pleafures; but, if we have
fome enjoyment, yet confider the fituation of a
geologi# obliged to pafs three or four years at fea.
Between the tropics the ftomach becomes weak, and
exceflive perfpiration fatigues the body, while in cold
climates fogs overwhelm us. To all this you muft
add our grief for the lofs of our friends, and the dan-
gers we have furmounted, which are certainly not in-
confiderable, and you will acknowledge that fcience,
like religion, has its enthufiafts, and perhaps its mar-
tyrs. Health and fpirits have never forfaken me, and
Eea though
424 CORRESPONDENCE OF
though a little fatigued with 10,000 leagues we have
already traverfed, I take breath to proceed with new
ardour, nor have I yet had leifure to feel the \tedium
of langour for a finglemoment. Mongès and I have
each our.department ; his comprchends birds, a part
of the infects, the analyfis of fiones and waters, and
fome objects of natural hiftory. In mine I have geo-
logy, quadrupeds, fifh, fhells, and many other aqua-
tic animals; the reduction of metcorological obfer-
vations, the natural hiftory of the fea, &c. M. de la
Martiniére who is on board the Aftrolabe, takes care of
the plants, and amufes himfelf with infects, birds and
fifth. All thefe materials to be arranged, and proper-
ly applied, require labour and attention.
Preferve your health and your amiable gaiety, and
rely upon my conftant friendfhip.
P. S. I fhall expect from you, at the Ifle of France,
a long letter, to inform me of all the moft impor-
tant news both of the literary and political world.
eS EE
LETTER FROM M. DE LA MARTINIERE TO THE Ml+
NISTER OF MARINE *,
Road of Santa Cruz, Teneriff, 29th Aug. 1785,
SIR,
SHOULD I, purfuing the example of almoft all
botanifts, who have had occafion to traverfe different
countries, and obferve their produétions, only col-
lect a vaft variety of plants, to arrange them in
an herbal, I fhould I think by no means fulfilled
the charge with which I am entruftcd. In my opinion,
every botanift, when he arrives in a foreign country,
ought immediately to employ himfelf in examing all
its productions, in making an accurate catalogue of
* This piece and the following not coming to my hands till the
work was printed off, I have not been able to range them according
- to their dates. They appeared, however of too much importance
to.be kept from the infpection of the learned —French Editor.
them
them in, e)
ture, and |
tation he E
tions may
in France,
country.
In this 1
cupied. dui
our excurf
ral plants t
rifh in the
the obferv:
plants of t
of which it
come extre
If, as I |
to our clin
ferred no
know, Sir,
dy this inc
vate the fo
to fend yor
They ar
ral of the
wifh many
furnifhing
ford that ce
inhabitant:
leaving he
where this
feed on i
This fhrul
named by
Jpartium fu
heightsoft
the road Ic
Jpartium y
whofe brar
M. DE LA MARTINIÈRE. A28
them in, examining the foil, its expofure and tempera-
ture, and laftly in judging by analogy from the vege.
tation he has feen in other countries, what produc-
tions may be propagated with the greateft advantage
in France, fo as torender an important fervice to his
country.
In this manner, therefore, I have been chiefly oc-+
cupied. during our ftay at Madeira and Teneriff, and
our excurfion to the Peak. I have there found feve.
ral plants that, with cultivation, would certainly flou-
rifh in the province of Languedoc. I judge fo from
the obfervations I have made on a vaft number of
plants of that province, growing here among others
of which it is deftitute, though they might there be--
come extremely ufeful.
If, as I hope, we fhall ever be able to adapt them
to our climate, I fhall flatter myfelf with having con-
ferred no fmall benefit on that province. You
know, Sir, it is entirely deftitute of wood. Toreme-
dy this inconvenience, therefore, I propofe to culti-
vate the following plants of which I have the honour
to fend you the feeds.
They are only feven or eight in number, and fcve-
ral of the genus Geffa. On one of thefe I could
wifh many experiments to be made, becaufe befides
furnifhing the greateft quantity of wood, it would af-
ford that country an excellent food for goats. The
inhabitants of Teneriff fet us the example, by
leaving herds of goats for whole years, in the diftrict
where this plant grows in abundance. The animals
feed on it exclufively, and thrive extremely well,
This fhrub, commonly called ginete, or broom, is
named by Maffon in the fupplement of Linnæus,
Jpartium fupranulium. Jt comes to perfection on the
heightsofthe mountains towards the port of Orotava, on
the road Icadingupthe Peak. Itis certainly thelargeft
Jpartium yet known. I met with fome fpecimens
whofe branches coyered an area of 80 feet in circum-
ference,
426 ‘CORRESPONDENCE OF
ference. Thetrunk was nearly as thick as the body
of a man, and the branches in proportion. It rifes to
the height of ten or twelve feet; and when it flowers
it muft be a moft beautiful object, as it has a great
quantity both of branches and flowers,
The other plants that appear moft likely to ve.
getate in the fouth of France are,
ift, A fpecies of afparagus very common in this
country. It is a charming fhrub, called by Linnæus
afparagus declinatus.
adly, A fpecies of ciftus, cifus villofus Linnei.
3dly, An euphorbia of the Canaries, (Euphorbia
Canarienfis Linnæi) which grows on the rocks, and is
generally ufcd as firewood. ‘The vegetation of this
plant is fo vigorous, thatthe fame trunk often pro-
duces more than 150 branches of the thicknefs of the
arm, and twelve feet high.. One of thefe euphorbie
would afford a man fufficient fire-wood:for a whole
winter. '
I could with that, for thefe experiments, fome land
might be chofen in the environs of Montferrier, a
fmall village about a mile frem Montpellier, round
which is an extent of uncultivated land, commonly
called garrigues. Every thing leads me to believe
all thefe plants would grow very well there, fince
that country is volcanic, like the ifland of Teneriff.
The perfon who appears to me the moft proper for
making the experiments is M. Gouan, profeflor of
medecine at Montpellier, a very fkilful botanift, un-
der whom I took my degrce of doctor in phyfic, and
for whom I fhall ever entertain the greateft refpect.
If you will be pleafed to tranfmit him a part of
the feeds I have the honour to fend you, I fhall think
myfelf highly honoured.
I have the happinefs alfo to fend you two cords
which I made with the bark of the banana, and
feveral parcels .of the ligneous part of the fame tree,
which I entreat you to have examined immediately,
to
_…. ns + £5 4
PU ey PP UE VALEURS RS er LORS EEE
was So es eee) Ae dene YN -t
as the body
n. Itrifesto
1en it flowers
it has a great
likely to ve.
imon in this
1 by Linnæus
s Linnæi.
, (Euphorbia
> rocks, and is
tation of this
1k often pro-
icknefs of the
efe euphorbie
for a whole
nts, fome land
Montferrier, a
pellier, round
id, commonly
ne to believe
| there, fince
of Teneriff.
oft proper for
1, profefior of
| botanift, un-
n phyfic, and
cateft refpect.
im a part of
a, I fhall think
ou two cords
banana, and
he fame tree,
immediately,
to
M. DE LA MARTINIERF A27
to why it is poffible to derive from it all the utility I
expect.
The ill fuccefs of evcry attempt of making linen
and cords, is probably owing to the want of infor-
mation relative to the proper method of preparing
the bark.
The procefs is as follows: the bark of this plant
ought not to be fteeped like hemp, becaufe it contains
a great quantity of vegetative moifture and pulp,
tending to accelerate the putrefaction of the ligneons
part which it is effential to preferve. But, on the
contrary, if care were taken to cut off the upper rind
in ftrips, and the bark fcraped with a knife to extract
all the water. and pulp contained in one layer, the
ligneous part would be eafily obtained, It may
then be left a fhort time in water to undergo a flight
degree of putrefaction, contributing to render it
much fofter, after which it may be ufed for every
purpofe inftead of hemp with much greater advan-
tage, fince a fingle trunk, by its different concentric
layers, ten or twelve in number, would afford fila-
ments of different degrees of finenefs, according to
their diftance of the centre of the tree.
You will judge, Sir, of the ftrength of thefc little
cords which were made at fea. Ihave fhewn them
to M. de Langle, who appears ftrongly perfuaded
they might be employed to very great advantage.
The principal method of trial, he obferved, is to lay
acord for fome time in water, and try whether it
preferves the fame degree of ftrength. This experi-
ment I intend to make *.
Extra&
# The voyage of La Péroufe could not, for thereafons I have before
affigned, be the means of procuring a great number of new plants;
but of thofe fent home by the gardener Collignon fhould be no-
ticed, a charming herbaceous plant, that flowered and brought its
feeds to maturity in the botanical garden in 1789. Juflieu, who
firft obferved it, has difcovered that it conftitutes a new genus, be-
longing to the family of #4ages, and has given it the name of aéro=
nia,
428 CORRESPONDENCE OF
Extrad of a Letter from M. de Lamanon, to M. de Con.
dorcet, perpetual Secretary to the, Academy of Sciences.
AFTER a run of two months we landed at St. Ca.
tharine’s Ifland, where we fhall only flay to procure
wood and water. Since leaving Tencrift we have feen
no land but the Martin Vas iflands, which are uninha-
bited, and Trinidad, where a Portuguefe cftablifhment
fucceeded to that of the Englifh about a year before.
It has a garrifon of about 150, but no women what-
ever. Provifions are carried thither evcry fix months,
and there is no cultivation in any part of the ifland,
which is nothing more than a rock of bafaltes, Jap-
proached it within hail, but the fea is interfperfed
with rocks, and we had orders from the captain not to
land.
Before you reccive this letter, one I fent you
from Feneriff will probably have arrived. Being
obliged to write to you before we anchor at St. Ca-
tharine, as otherwife I fhall not have time, it is im-
poffible to fend you any confiderable news. . As our
fhips do not fail well, the voyage will be fomewhat
protracted, and is cxpected to be in the wholc three
years and a half. We fhall then have kept the fea
longer than any preceding navigators ; for we remain
very little time in any port. At prefent, indeed, we
are haftening to double Cape Horn during the fa-
yourable feafon. So long a continuance at fea will
not allow me as much time on fhore as I require for
mineralogical obfervations ; but I take advantage of
it for other purpofes, I am very well, and labour
conftantly twelve hours a day without fatigue, not-
withftanding the rolling of the fhip. Inficad of ly-
‘ing in bed till nine or ten o'clock, as was my idle
nia, a Greek word fignifying ine, delicate, (vide Gen. Plant, page
448). Lamarck has given a good drawing of it in his Mu/raricnes
Generum, plate 150. The feeds of this plant were collected in Ca-
Kfornia.—French Editor.
cufiom
ft
— beg té Me À js, =
S 6
M. de Con.
of Sciences.
dat St. Ca-
to procure
re have feen
are uninha-
tablifhment
year before.
men what.
ix months,
the ifland,
Ites, Tap-
interfperfed
ptain not to
[ fent\ you
ed. Being
at St. Ca-
e, it is im-
rs, .As our
fomewhat
‘hole three
ppt the fea
we remain
indeed, we
ng the fa-
at fea will
require for
vantage of
nd labour
tigue, not-
icad of ly-
as my idle
n. Plant, page
is Luffraticnes
blleéted in Ca-
cufiom
M. DE LAMANON. 429
cuftom formerly, I behold the fun rife every morning
with renovated pleafure.
I annex hereto a memoir on the refults of obferva-
tions on the barometer, taken hourly between one
degree north and one degree fouth latitude. It
fhould appear that the combined action of the fun
and moon produces a flux and reflux of the atmof
phere, occafioning a variation of a line in the baro-
meter. According to the calculations of M. de la
Place, it ought not to be more than one third of a
line. It is true I have read, that according to the ca}-
culation of the fame philofopher, the barometer ought,
at the equator, to vary half a line by the action of the
moon, fo that fome doubt remains. M. de la Place
will be able to fay whether the obfervations and the
theory accord. Judging from the opinion of the
greateft mathematicians concerning the tides, there
muft be fome uncertainty in the fundamental part of
this calculation. Some aflert that, if the fea were of
mercury, the tides would be the fame, while others
affure us they muft be different. It remains for you
mathematicians of the firft rank to examine this fub-
ject anew, and finally determine our belief.
I make magnetical obfervations with great care,
but it would be difficult to give you an account of
them. [I have watched the dip of the needle twenty.
four hours together, to obfcrve the true moment
when we paffed the magnetic equator, and I found
the true zero of the dip at eight o’clock in the morn-
ing of the 8th of October, in about 10° 46/ fouth la.
titude *. I have made obfervations on fome iron
bars laid on the fhip,and on fome that were fixed ; on
the ofcillations of the necdle, both perpendicular and
horizontal, and the weights that a magnet will fup-
port according to the latitudes; fo that before long
I hope to have collected a greater number of facts
* See the tables of the track of the Bouffole, 8th Oftober, 198 5.
—French Editer.
than
SS
Sa eee = ee égal & ge TA
~ S
TR es
PT RE ME ET
430 CORRESPONDENCE OF
than were ever obferved on this fubjeét. The re-
fults only will be printed in our general accounts.
We have not one fick man on board, except M.
Blondela, whofe lungs are confiderably affected. We
arc all pleafed with each other, and extremely hap-
py with M. de la Péroufe. As to myfelf, in particu-
lar, I have great reafon to praife him, for the readi-
nefs of his endeavours to procure me all the affiftance
my ftudies and experiments require. M. Mongis
has taken for his department ornithology, microfcopic
animals, and cryptogamous plants. Mine embraccs
ichthyology, entomology, and the conchology of ma-
rine, terreftrial, and river fhells. With refpe to
mineralogy, we have not yet drawn the boundary
line ; however, from the turn of our minds, the geo-
logical obfervations will reft with me, and the foffils,
(détail des mines,) and chemiftry, with the Abbé
Mongès. I am alfo charged with the meteorological
and magnetic obfervations. When I was at Salon,
I lived with my family one year, to provide for the
expences of a journey the next. Thus I had a year
of ftudy for each year of local obfervation : at prefent,
I compare my obfervations when at fea, and collect
new ones at every port. My habits of life have,
therefore, undergone very little change.
When you have an opportunity of feeing M. le
Roy, tell him that on the 25th of October, we had
an extraordinary tempeft. ‘The heavens appeared all
on fire. I pafied a part of the night in obferving it,
and had the pleafure of witnefling three afcending
electric meteors. They fhot from the fea like an ar-
row ; two rofe perpendicularly, and the third formed
an angle of 75 degrees. The lightning took a lefs
fepentine direction than in France. ‘Towards the end
of the ftorm I faw a luminous point at the top of the
conductor, which remained there a quarter of an
hour. This is what they call the Feu Saint-Elme ;
but it did not appear on the other mafts, I am al-
ways
. The re-
counts,
except M.
scted. We
emely hap-
in particu-
r the readi-
re affiftance
A. Mongès
microfcopic
1e embraces
logy of ma-
1 refpect to
ve boundary
ids, the geo-
d the foffils,
h the Abbé
eteorological
vas at Salon,
wide for the
I had a year
: at prefent,
, and collect
of life have,
fecing M. le
ober, we had
s appeared all
obferving it,
ee afcending
ea like an ar-
third formed
g took a lefs
ards the end
he top of the
quarter of an
Saint-Elme ;
ts. I amal-
ways
M. DE LAMANON. A431
ways ftrenuous in recommending the ufe of conduc-
tors. Ours is to be taken down at Saint Catharine’s,
where we fhall arrive to-morrow; but perhaps we may
fucceed in retaining it fome time longer, for M. de la
Péroufe appears almoft convinced of its utility. He
has been told by fome one, that the Englifh have
laid afide the ufe of it, and that they have found it
productive of great inconvenience. This appears
ftrange, as I know Forfter mentions an inflance in
which it was of the greateft fervice to Captain Cook’s
fhip. I think we fhall at laft refolve to take it down
during a hard gale of wind, left it fhould break, and
. replace it on the approach of a thunder ftorm ; and
vie I believe, would be the fafeft and moft rational
an.
I addrefs the memoir mentioned above, to M. de
Fleurieu, becaufe I am not certain whether it is the
minifter’s intention to permit it to be publifhed before
our return *.
P.S. We have been very well received at Saint Ca-
tharine’s, and found there an abundance of every
thing. Ihave collected an ample harveft of infects,
quadrupeds, fifh, fiones, &c. The inhabitants are
a well difpofed people, and the Governor treated us
with politenefs.
On board the Bouffole off Saint Catharine,
5th November, 1785.
* See my note, vol. i, p 25, which was printed nearly two years
before L had any knowledge of this letter.—French Editor.
CORRESPONDENCE OF
OBSERVATIONS
Made between the Firft Degree of North and the Figf
Degree of South Latitude, in order to difcotier the
Flux and Reflux of the Almofphere.
BY M. DE LAMANON.
IT has been already obferved, that between the
tropics the mercury of the barometet remains con-
ftantly higher in the fyzygies than in the quadratures
of the moon ; but it has never been fufpected, that
the flux and reflux of the fea might not only bo
perceived, but in fome degree meafured, by means
of this infirument ; it was referved for the Academy
of Sciences to difcovet the poflibility of applying it
tothat purpofe. The following are the words of that
learned body, in their inftruétions upon this fubject
given us by M. de la Péroufe, in the beginning of
our voyage round the world.
“ The Academy alfo requefts the navigators to keep
‘ an exact account of the different heights of the ba-
“ rometer, in the neighbourhood of the equator, at
‘- different hours of the day, with a view to difcover,
« if poflible, what variations in this inftrument are
“ occafioned by the fun and the moon; this variation
“‘ being at its maximum, when thofe produced by the
& ordinary caufes are at their minimum. It is un-
“ neceflary to temark that thefe nice and delicate ob-
“ fervations ought to be made on fhore, with the
‘ gréateft precaution.”
Having attended the reading of this article in an
extraordinary fitting of the Academy, I procured an
excellent barometer to be made by M. Fortin, by
which a variation of only the fiftieth part of a line
anight be diftinguifhed. M. Lavoifier had recom-
ended me to this fkilful artift. It was fuppofed, I
| ' fhould
SOS ogee
©
nd the Firf
difcoter the
between the
mains con-
quadratures
pected, that
ot only be
1, by means
he Academy
applying it
vords of that
this fubjeét
eginning of
ators to keep
its of the ba-
> equator, at
r to difcover,
firument are
this variation
duced by the
n. It is un-
| delicate ob-
re, with the
article in an
procured an
. Fortin, by
art of a line
had recom-
; fuppofed, I
fhould
M. DR LAMANON. 433
fhould make ufe of this inffrument, which was con-
ftruéted for the purpofe ; and it was under that im-.
preffion that the academy, in its inftructions, advifed
the obfervations to be made on fhore. But having
met with a marine barometer at Breft, conftruéted
on Mr. Nairne’s plan, as defcribed in the voyages of
the celebrated Cook, I found it poffeffed all the re-
quifites for making exact obfervations at fea. How-
ever violent the rolling of the fhip, the mercury has
always remained undifturbed, which may be attri-
buted to the mode of fufpending of the barometer,
and the capillary tube adapted to the common tube.
With the Vernier fcale added to it, variations of + of
a line may be perceived.
By obferving this barometer every day, at fun rife,
at noon, and at fun fet, I have remarked that be-
tween 119 2’ and 1° 17’ north latitude, it preferved
a very regular motion ; the Mercury being always at
its greateft height about noon, whence it defcended
till the evening, and rofe again during the night.
It was on the 27th of September that we reached
the latitude of 1° 17’, and on the 28th before day
break, I began my obfervations, for which I had pre-
pared in the evening, and continued them hourly,
till fix in the morning of the firft of O&eber, or more
than three days and nights. M. Mongés kindly
undertook to make the obfervations for me, during
the fix hours I devoted to fleep. I thought it ne-
ceflary to obferve alfo, at the fame time, the ther-
mometer in the open air, that attached to the baro-
meter and the hair hygrometer. I alfo noted down
the direction of the wind, the courfe of the fhip, and
the way we made, eftimated by the log. At the fame
time I took the opportunity of making obfervations
on the temperature of the fea water, at all hours,
and on the dip of the needle.
The refults of thefe obfervations appear to me very
curious. The barometer rofe hourly, during fix
Vou, II. F f hours,
434 CORRESPONDENCE OF
hours, and then defcended for the fame time, rifing
again during the fix following hours, and thus con.
tinued rifing and falling alternately, as is fhewn in
the following table, extracted from my journal :
LUE r LINES,
from 4 to 10 a.m. — rofe 1.9
The 28th Sept. 10 to Ap.m. — fell 1.2
4 to 10P. M. — rofe 09
10 to 4a.m. — fell 1.3
A to 10 A.M. — rofe 1.5
29th. 10 to Ap.m. — fell 1.3
A to 10 p.m. — rofe 1.0
10 to 4a.m. — fell 1.7
A to 10 A. M. — rofe 1.4
dass 10 to 4pP.M. — fell ‘1.4
A to 10 P. M. — rofe 1.0
1ft October. 10 to 4a.m. — fell 0.8
The flux and reflux of the atmofphere, at the
Equator is, therefore, fuch as to caufe a variation
in the height of the barometer of about one line 7s,
according to the Englifh fcale ; and the atmofphere
may, therefore, be fuppofed to rife and fall in the
fame time, about 100 fect. According to M. Ber-
nouilli, the action. of the fun and moon combined
does not caufe the waters of the fea at the Equator
to rife more than feven feet.
It is true that fome allowance muft be made;
1ft, For the variation of temperature in the mercury
of the barometer; 2ndly, Perhaps for that of the
air; and 3dly, For the feven feet of afcent and de-
fcent of! the.{ca, on which I was placed during the
obfervations.
; I fhall leave, however, to more able mathema-
ticians, to prove whether this obfervation ne
| witn
with theor
thefe obfe:
meteorolog
ence of tk
moir on th
Phyfique 5
Cofmograp}
ftrated. It
allow notl
caufing a:
barometer,
produce fe
I think |
the Acade
annex the
quence of
the barom«
height of
M. DE LAMANON. 435
with theory and calculation. Be that as it may,
thefe obfervations appear fufficiently to prove that
meteorologifts allow far too much for the influ-
ence of the moon, as I have fuggefted in my me-
moir on the fog of 1783, printed in the Journal de
Phyfiques and as M. de la Place, author of the
Cofmographie élémentaire, has mathematically demon-
ftrated. It would be no lefs erroneous, however, to
allow nothing for the action of the moon; for,
caufing a variation of a line and three tenths in the
barometer, it may influence the atmofphere, and
produce fenfible ce
I think it my duty to lay thefe obfervations before
the Academy exactly as I made them, and thus I
annex them. It mutt be noticed, that in confe-
quence of the change of the level in the refervoir of
the barometer, one line muft always be added to the
height of the mercury fet down in the table,
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to jo “fo do «do Aho akn crf mot fn cimeimerin ho Ko fo ho mt om
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440
DESCRIPTIVE NOTE
ON THE LIANES OR LARDIZABALE OF CHILI®,
(Sce the Plates where they bab bien called Cotton Plants, }
By VENTENAT, Member of the National Infiitute.
The name of Liane is applied univerfally in, both the
Indies, to denote:chmbing or voluble plants, That
of which, a, drawing has been fent by M.:de la Mar-
tinière, isa low fhrub or fuffrutex, with a cylindrical
fem, branching, furnifhed with tendrils. "Phe leaves
are alternate, furnifhed.with petioles or leaf-fiems in. .
flated -at their bafe. Bach Tea is biternate,: or di...
vided into three folioles,.and fubdivided into. three.
dmmaller, tharp, oval leaflets, entire when young, | but.
‘afterwards: faintly lobed.. The flowers, difpofed in
ren ufters, grow near the fummit ofthe ”
ik, ahd the branches in axillæ-of the leaves It is: —
fi
‘ofthe ordér diœcia, that is, the male flowers aïe on
‘one plant, and the female on another, of the fame
fpecies. At the bafe of each clufter are feen twa
finall oval-rounded folioles itlmoft oppoñite.
* The drawings of thefe plants came without either a memoir or
particular defcription, and I am indebted to the ces bota-
nift, who has politely furnifhed me with this note for {upplying the
defeët.— French Editor.
FEMALE
‘ 9S Manel Jeu
i
=
rm
oe
€
E
Zi
<
Ë
~
A
°
E
D
D
fal
5
3
Re
=
$
SS
$
3
‘
DESCRIPTIVE NOTE,
PEMALE FLOWER,
Calyx, fimilar to that of the male flower, but
re orolle, inferted below the piftil, formed of fix
tals rately entire, oftener cleft at their fummit,
or trifid, fhorter than the folioles of the calyx,
Styles fix, inferted as the corolla, diftinét, broad,
expanding, very fhort, furrounding the piftil ; ftigmas
fix, erect, oblong, acuminate, barren.
Germens from three to fix, oblong, gibbous on the
outfide, and of almoft the rags es of the corolla ;
fiyles wanting, fligmata at top, oblong, perfiftent.
Berries equal in number to the germens, oblong,
acuminate, flefhy, (divided alternately into fix com-
rtments, and containing numerous angular feeds,
Flore Péruviana.)
This plant conftitutes a new genus belonging to
the order dicecia hexandria according to the fexual
fyftem of Linnæus, I wifhed to have given it the
name of La Martinière; but on looking over the
Flora de Peru y Rhili, printed at Madrid in 1724, I
found it there mentioned under the name of Jardiza-
bala. Probably it may be found in the herbal of our
countryman Dombey, who was fent to Peru in 1774,
with Ruiz and Pavon, authors of the Flora Peru-
viana, to contribute to the advancement of natural
hiftory. |
The general charaéter of the lardizabala, evidently
places this new genus among the family of the
MENISPERMUM, to which it has an apparent affinity
by its climbing ftalks, flowers in clufters, diftinét fexes,
the leaves of its calyx, its petals and ftamina, fix in
number, and its piftil, compofed of from three to fix
germens which become as many fruit.
From the genera of this order hitherto known, it
differs, however, in its fruit which, inftead of being
| monof-
nm
à . ;
Ds nn
. 0
4Az DESCRIPTIVE NOTE.
monofpermous, include feveral feeds. This character,
which fhould indicate a new fection of the meni/per-
mum, ftrengthens the relation this family bears to the
next order, thé anone:. In fact, the greater part of
the genera anone, having equally in the fame flower
many fruits containing numerous feeds, differ in this
refpectifrom all.the genera of menifpermum, and: placing
the lardizabsla between both, we eftablifh a natural
gradation, | To confirm this opinion, it only-remains
to.examine the infide of the fruit, and particularly the
firu€ture of the feeds. It is’ well known that thofe of
the menifpermum are reniform, at leaft internally, fur.
nifhed with a flefhy pericarpium, and contain towards
their upper part a dicotyledonous embryo; :. All thefe
characters of the lardizabala fliould lead-us to fuppofe
the ftructuré of their feeds fimilar,, ‘The authors of |
the Flora Peruviana de not mention it, becaufe, pro-
bably not having fufficiently attended to the ME
ples of thé natural method, which on the whole is the
true {cience of botany, they did not attach to the cha.
racters furnifhe2 by ‘the feed all the importance they
deferve. True naturalifts, however, will confider
them as the touchftone by which all the other cha.
racters are to be proved.
is character,
he meni/per-
bears to the
ater part of
fime flower
differ in this
, and placing
ifh a natural
only remains
rticularly the
that thofe of
ternally, fur-
ntain towards
10; All thefe
us to fuppofe
se authors of
becaufe, pro-
to the prided
e whole is the
ch to the cha:
yportance the
ra de
he other cha.
TABLES
FEMALE COTTON PLANT of CHILI.
lab: June 20.1798, by L. Stockdale .
i
i k +o
| J À ae 2
| 4 if
| } FE el
| 1: ju
| Tt ie
| k } Fa
|
| gb |
ui
8 {|
i is
i ait
i. ,
VF 1 4
> ess
/ } 4
( i
fog i
her
+ Be
|
|
Me di:
| '
\ }
;
a PMazeil Seal
J In thef
tion of th
the fame
Refult of
. by Réau
“rife; an
webferved
+
| SHEWING
“THE COURSE OF LA BOUSSOLE,
DURING THE YEARS
3785, 3486, 1787, AND 1788,. i
| From * Time: of. her Departure ‘from Europes till
her: Arrival at. Botany Bay. fi.
# pneu Er é. ns ve +
; Se 4 ote.
# In thefe Tables are given, the Ship’s Place at Noon}. -the Varia,”
tion of the,Compafs, as obferved in the Morning or Evening'a 7
the fame Day (and diftinguifhed by thé Letter a when ite the
Refult of an Azimuth Obfervation) ; othe Degree of Teuf
DY Réaumur’s Thermometeny the Heightof the Barometer at Sun-
* rife; and lattly, the PIERIE of ge eNom a eieevet it could be
Weberved k Lu ie 3
+ Vor. IT.
= ss we al
FERS
CHUN DROWN © =
5143
744
3138
| 936
10/34
31/33
12132
wm
ENT
132 5
b ralAtMadeirs
15| Ditto
ae | RS
“°°. ABBREVIATIONS. 4 FRA"
1731 , 28
F
br. for bréeze; cl. cloudy; f. fathoms; g. gales h. hazy,; 1. light; 1830
ft. ftormy; d. n. declination of the needle; w. weather,
wt t ; 4 4
M a 19128 32
20|At Tenerif
at} Ditto
| Ditto
13) Ditto
y] Ditto
14] Ditto
16] Ditto
b7| Ditto
b8| Ditto
2 Ditto
$028 21
27 18
125 37
as 56
4122013
LATE. 18
19 26
617 34
916 16
rs 17
gig 58
lot4 12
Mig 57
113 07
nl2 09
lt 02
®— {19 «28 o3IN. E. L. br. fair.
+ “à #
LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.
4. à
hdi dé Weft Long | weft Variation
ate À | North a “mg aj ortne ait MEE. | Ther. | Baro. [wind ; State of the atmofphere; Remarks,
™ ’ el | Pea. mine wet a ; :
f D. M. D. M. Peine Ds. M. D. M. ri P. L, E cl.
ar 4 148° 22) 7: 43lof Dep. 11 128 o2/E. cl. w. rain.
de 4 M; : 1147 og] 9 “ol — “€ x 14, |27-22]S. S. E. fr. S. hazy.
Le Mr 0 L 146 56/10 23] — a à } 27 07/S. uals, vvercaft, rain.
des 33111 231D. Mj — js jag r0iN. E. 1, br. fair w.
44 1511 53/11 04) — [21,40 ie 128 o4|N. W. ditto.
* 43 23112 Ms7lxs 42] — 22 do: TRE N. E. 1. br. cl.
41 19 14 o1 — — om « à 04 N. E. fr. br. el,
38 solts 43/14 — [22 gots. {28 o2|Ditto.
L 936 ‘52126 16/15 mw |18 66515 1128 o4ÏN. E. fr. br. fair.
1/34 40/16, 42] +— oe — |16 £28 o3/N.E. |, br. fair.
41133 02117 23116 21] — |19 oft7 (28 o2/N.N. E. ditto.
dar N. N. E. 1. br. hazy. At
om 132 67118 «97/17 45] —— — |17 {28 02 j 8 o'clock, P. M. faw the
’ : Defart Ifands.
os si 4 E.S.E.1.b.f. AtSo'clock
wig 1132 59 19° 23) — — {18 |28 o4l4 P.M.anchoredintheroad |
me mx ' of Funchal, at Madeira.
——— yylatmadeira] mf - —| — |S.E. very little wind, h.
J " 15 Ditto — : ad — |S. ré Hit e a a fair. à
| h632 31119 15 RE AM. failed d n Madras
vai 28/19 08] — E. |. br, fair.
J j 4 8 18 Af 18 — 101 N. E. fr. brs faw the Sal.
zy.; 1. light; eS Iflands. ve
Édther, N. . br. At 4 o’elock,
; Re * A.M. faw the Canaries, 2
1928 32118 52 28 05 I ‘totheS.S.W. At zy
hee ee . anch. in the road of
Santa ' Cruz, in pos
& , aol4t Teneri — a — de N.E. 1. br. fai
iat. u! Ditto — ~ ~<a itto. esha
“? ! ul Ditto | — _ — = |Ditto. Fe we.
xl Ditto |] — _ ~ = |Ditto.
ry, Ditto 1° un — =e x N. E. fi br. fair.
Ditto | — | — | — Dittowge
27 Ditto omen — — Ditto. 7
às| Ditto — — — re Ni E. 1. br. fair.
iy 19) Ditto — | = — N.E. nine i
" vs SAN E.frdbr. fu; Tookour 4h
OR aus SL hp NDS departure'f . Cruz.
a7 1818 43] — 1§ 3819 |28 o3|N. N. E. 1.br. fair.
a 125 137198 09] — 1§ 10/18 |28 03)/N. E. fr. brefair.,
i “à ÿ223 56 19° 69 — hs 05 18 3128 03 N.N. E. TI. br. hazy.
i ; mhaisho 31
17.182058
to 26/21, 36/22
thy 342 57
$16 16/22 01/22 34
frs 17/22 04
114 58122 : 10
1o14 12/22 IF
His 57/22 31
113 07/22 32
td
9
— |19#/2804IN. ditto. a
— |20 ES E. ditto.
12 07/20 28 o2|N.E. fr. br. fair.
— |zo 3/28 oalDitto.
8 rrl22 Le 8 o2lE. calm, ft.
es |22 128 02/8. S. E. ditto.
8 49/22 tes oa. very little wind, fair.
— |21: 8 où1s. S. E. calm, ft.
= 20 428 o2!5. S. E. br. tts,
12 o9!24 38/22 10 7. 4519 |a8 o31N. N. E. ditto.”
Wito2l2z 4222 58 10 23lè1 4128, o2[N. I. br; fair. de #. 20%
+ Fae
® * ÿ
Lt
—
—
=
—
en
AE
es
ne
SRE
ome
met
ns
mes
es
wee
# al
ee
LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE ‘!,
Let |A
GT PR à
ns | Wil f State of the Atmalahére Rem
e N. ‘e L br. fair
8 0M8, W. 1. bre Hey
—) [10 $128.02/S, W, fr. br. cl,
1120 a8 02 OR i. ne
728 03)W.N. W.:little wind, fai
Mi ARB 02 vo ad ; m
a 4 De De ole br. rain, à
bs are 04 © fome birds ”
20° 128.031S, $: W. fr. brs rain
16 22/12 30/30 28.04 S, W. gufts of wind, overcal
sai 47 13 47/20 4/28%03/S, W. 1. br. fair
2218 ‘2ol14 26] — — {20 28.038, S. E. 1. br. rain
18 46/15 37115 46/13 26/20 “|284%031S. 1, br. cle
19 24] — 13 36/20 |28 03 pe E.ficb P
RG : : rae | «SE. fre br. gufts of wind
T FS 2/2808) 9 in du: Re, notth
— 19 428: o2 S.S.E. fr. br. rain, d. 2,179
19. |28-03/S, E. fr. bri cl. d. 2.'199,
sol19 {28 o3/S, E. 1. br. fair. d. 2, 169,
59|19 |28 03/S.E. fr. br. fair |
19/19. |28-03/S,.E. by EB. fr. br. fair
18/19 03lS: S. E. fr. br. fair. d. 2. 1049
43/19 03S. E. fr. br. fair. d.n. 829,
44119 :l28 031$; E. gufts of w. h. d,n, n°.
03/B.S.E. fr. - Du d. n, 344
BS E.S. B. gufts of w. cl. d.
LS 50119 3/28 + } 0°. at PA. M.
I 5 630/18); Ë 8 ogi. S.E. fr. br. cl. &. #. 13,8
"5 141888 03/S.E.by E. fr. br. fog. d.n. 30
| 407/18" 128 031$. E. L'br. hazy. d n. 24,
‘80/26 .%a2| 3° 34/18 1128 o4lDitto. d.m. 4°.
03/27 ‘24/2 — | § 14/17 228: ogiE.S.E. fn. br. overc. d. n, dl
39/28 048 : 01/57 |28 04/8. N. E. fr. br. fair. d, 2, $4
1124 | 461% 2128.03/N. E. fr. br. fair. d. n, 124°
N. 1. br. Saw the ifles ç
o1}17 3128 os} Martin Vas, about 10 leag
tae LW. 34°..N. dom 132%
Ban. «at N. N. Ww. 1. br. fair, N
6 A.M. faw Trinid
Tfland, about 8 league
W.17° N,
1 ooi14 4/28:021N.N. WI. br, hazy: d. 2.15
— |18) }28.02/S.S.E. fr. b'fair."d. n, 14}
— {17 {28.02/S.E. fr. br, overcatt
1 42,27 |28.02/S. E..l. br. rain. d. #47}
1 54119 |28.03/S. S. E. fre br. fair
— l16:4/28.04lS. E. 1. br. fire. 2. 144°
3 32116 |28.03/E.N. Eyl, br. fair. dr. . 83e
00H16:4/28.00/N. E. fr. br. rain. d, #17
rN. W. , ra
56/42 06) 4 40/16 1128 or M Aiea 2
26142 451 4° 557 128.00 W.N.W. fr. br. cl, d, 2.20
sl = . $5\87- [28.02 Ditto, d. 2, 20°.
—_ 16 2/28 o2 a Ww. l. br. fair. d
F let Z 9
ht
Es
6123
26/24 54/23
oe
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
{1141111
“à
Weft Lons.|Weft Long.|'
Computed
Wert
south by the jb tonite A pe pare
1 of the Mo, er. rom; | Windss State of the Atmolphere; Remarks.
Ca Li te” Longitude.| Keeper, | from the || “gag ; à
' No, 19 Sun. ;
D. ” / | D.
)10128.032)44
E. N. E. 1. br. fair. Saw
x er albatrofies ’
17 2/28 o0!S. Eh bre rain. ”
16 4/28 o2/S. B. fr. br. fo
9 50/15 4128 o1[N. N. EB. | be ir
= 428 o1/S. SE. |. bréftormy, rain
k S.E. i br. hazy. At3
Ll brohazy mn:
W.1. br. rain, %
birds
» fr. bes rain
gufts of wind, overcal
P. M. faw the continent of
Brañl, about ro leagues
diftant W, 15° S.
. br. fair A -1(S. 1. br. fair. Sounded in 37
1. br. rain 3549 49) = 12/14 4128 02 and 40 fath. bottom fand
. cle L' iit and mud. 4.2. 294°,
N.N.E. tr. br. fair. At
«firs br. gufts of wind a4 __ |) 4 P.M. anchored at St.
. din. 189, notth
l Catharine's in 7 fathoms,
fr. br. rain, d, n,17°
bottom {and mud.
S. fr. br. @ir . ity
j S. varying to the N. E. fr.
oe br cl. de 2.179,
br. fair. d. 2, 160, ee Lx bre fair
. br. fair N.N.E. ]. br. fair. Chang-
by EB. fre br. fair Fri 10 ed.our anchorage
» fr. br. fair, d. 2, 104° — —. IN. NOE. fre br. faite
r. br. fair. dm, 810, ju a ae . BA ay ing tothéE.
ufts of w. h. 4, m, 7°, 7 10 S.E. fr. br. ft. rain
«fr. br. ha. d. 7, 31 ns = ee SE. varying to the S.
. E. gufts of w. cl. d, fr. br, foggy a
at3 A.M. — — |S#lebr. hazy i ie
> fr. br. cl, d, #. 13,9 j N. varying tothe N.E. very,
rE, fr. br. fog. din. 40 ‘à 7 f& little wind, fair
br. hazy. da ne oi, im aaa S. tt. thunder eT
din. 4, — — |N.N.E.1. br. fair
fr. br. overc. d, », 6! — — JN. ft. thunder and lightning
=, fr. br. fair. dn. 84 _ — {N. alm6ftia cahn, ft. *
r. br. fair. d, #. 129 S. ‘4 Very little wind,
br. Saw the ifles q fair. Got under way at 5
tin Vas, about 10 leag sane A.M. at 10 a calm, att-
34°..N. d. 2. 133% te, of Lep. ree chored 2 leagues N. of the
|. W.. 1, br. fair,
AM. faw Trinid
and, about 8 league
19° N,
7.1. br hazy: d. n.15
fr. bo fair. d. #, 144
. br, overcatt
, br. rain. d. #47! 38l4s 38
. fre br, fair
br. fairs d ». 1312:
1, br. fair. der. ig
r. br. rain, d. 7
N. W. ftrong br. ra
thunder
W. fr. br. cl, d. 2,20
1. 4, 20°,
# W. 1 br. fair. d,
firit anchoring place; faile:
ed at 2 P.M. d.n. 30%
2|S. W. fri bracl,
2|S. W. fr. br. fair
1|N. E. acalm, fair
o|N. E. fr. br. fair ;
2|S. E. |. br. hazy. d. #. 43°.
2IN.E. |. br. hazy
} N.E. varying tothe E.S.E,
very little wind, fair
olË, 1. br. rain 4
111$. guits of wind, €.
2lW. 1. brs d. 2. 41°
3|N. N. W. very little we fr.
3|W.N.W, tr. bis fair. din. 43°
13,4 3|S. SW. freth br. rain,
rr di27 11[Ditto. d. m 4739.9 ©
28 ofS, W. freth br, fair
JTTLIIII
, dy Long. i
the Dil Ver che
Cu Needle | Ther | Barom, | winds; state of the Atmofphere; Remarts,
ste: fe
Computec
Lim Longitude
Welt.
D. MID. M
We fre ch fi | DEP
D#M.\D. M.D. M0. MID. M. D.
, D. 5142 3146 | +
*”
… 6434836 | — . 32 as 27 Fs ro
"4 8/3 4 10 59 127 11/Ditto. d. 2. 50%
Py Fr: FA of 15. LE 7427 11/N. W. litcle wind, fair
p {27 "Ne N. W. Bats of wind, rain 4! 65
vy 9144
1 7 4 ® ‘10144 Mig br ae dk. nk ; 87 67"
11 y weat a
12 vs L °° se N. yey br. rain a “4 ie ys
13145 27 10 SW, by W. guits of w. rain
14144 Pp? 8, 11N. Wy le-br, faire 4, 2. 51° 157° 59169
15143 28 %41W. S."Waiftef br. fair Lili 58170
16/44 9 4127 ite aay very little wind, cl, Fo 4 M,
M 28 2 r, fair
o| W. NEW. 1. br. foggy 57 5472
. 3|Ditto : 431158 23172
o|W. N. W. br. fogpy 4 F hi af
rn © Ww. N. W. te. hazy
12 §3 D 128 So|N. W. }. br. hazy
29 10|W. S. W. 1. br. fair
28 ofW. §, W. |. br. fair
— |10 |27 7|/S.W.1. WE ova ai
te A S. We qua ar
“ni - so 24 we S. S. E: a calm? rain
—s [10 f/27%11/S. E. almoft a calm, fair
IN. W. veryJittle wind, fair
oS. S. W. guits ofwind, rain
11W.N.W. fr. br. cl. din. 50°
olS. W. 1. br fair
2|N.N.W. fr.br. fair. d, 2. 51°
tar W. trode, fair. d. #2 513°
‘o|N. N.° Pie br. fair
pit. N. W. frefh br. cl,
ae S. W. my ce 1
1riN. W. guits of wind, cl.
27° 6S. W. fr br. fair. d.m. 554° WAT 04184... 55
6[W. by N. 1. br. fair: 2039 54183 31
; SW. by W, frefhbr. hazy. Hst39 818: 56
d,n. §7°
27 11 S. W. frefh br. fair ey
3 ee Ss. W. it little wind, ;
fair, dns
28 21S: SW. faually wé fair |
27 -81S. W. |. breeze, fair ; |
27 SIW.N.W'fibr.fair. d,n.591°
rrIN@w. L br. fair ¥
436 42So rs
d'A
Latitude
n. 5 1° the 0
g fs sis. E.l.br.fair. At4 A.M: td
: faw the coatt of Patagonia,
J€N.1. br. fair.Cape Fair Wea- 6 43
28 2/4 ther, about 5 leag. diftant,
W. 26° S, d, n. 62°
, *
tg
ROUND “it Won)
we *
= DT MID. MD. M.\D. M. D. P. L. té :
AR ho À 6168. 6 8 1h28 wig Tienda 1
San 331$3,.440170 ‘ ae 10 28 2 ight
M ete Sand. te
a \ fe St. {ne ‘
a i EL DR Bape Vin
PR": cent bore S. atgbout #". ,,
wind, rain 547 3309 3166, %: 68. pis ,
her rath tea 57167 57 mot ver] — _ Sts. of Le Maire, dem. 63°
nat use 48168 _ 81S. W. fr. br. fain, d.2..63%°
bof w inh 46157 13168 _ 1) ure ote : cl. | ‘
: "4 a F ° oa)
din. 51° Wamens7” $9169 — fio sane
t + Wils7 58/70 — 4 427 4/S.S. E. fqually wind, cl.
2" acl. 958 22/72 _ 4 4/27, ‘4! Wafrefh br. rain. den. 674 «
fogey 40157 54172 — 5 27 4lW.8. W. fr. br, cl.
8 Else saalra cb 6 6 ré by N. very little wink
foggy 715 SS : Fig a fog. dn, 66 9
Û 7: — | 6 7\W.1. br. el ‘din. 663° .
ae 4 — 9| 6 ‘IN. fc brad sete? atl
F — 6 N. frefh br. a pe
ar — 4 7. Wg ts of wind, rain
ao _ 4 fr.br. rain. d. #. 70°
’ fai — 4 5 lw. 1. " breezeyovercatt "
ro Tair wi? 3 LAS. W. fr. br, now. d. n. 72f° ,
ae — sk 1|S. E. {qually weather, cl. a
Ke we ‘ ~ 5 04|S.S.W. fqually w.cl.d.n.71§® 15
ay vain Es o5lS. W. frefh breeze, fair .
1, dr. 50° ae o9|Ditt di 4
gs — o9![S. W. fr. br, cl. d. 2. 68°
6 je Ww. fqually wind, rain.
4 sae IL dum. 6749
LR”. 3 “tome | 10|W. frefh breeze, rain
” 514 a | = 08 Di to. d. Me 644°
"ff _ 091$: br. fair. d. m 64°
pe —_— _ o1|W. fr. bre ‘forgy. d. n. bot°
d, cl. ae oil W. |, bréfaire v2. 58
¢. wee 141 04184. 55/79 20/80 25114 o1|S. W. fr. br. fair. d. 2. 574°4%
Me 553 1039 5483 31/77 42/78 32114 o2|W.S.W. I, br. fair.dn. sai
Flr haz \, alg 6 i $.S.W. 1. breezejfair. Saw |
+ hazy. 39 1 39/76 17/77 9114 93/2 land a-head Cs
: S. fr. br. fair. At8 AM.
' le wind the coaft 6f Chili, which
nthe WE “B27 51180. sol7g 23076 10/15. 44/1300{28 034 we had feen on the 2fft,
Le | 568 3) } bore E.N.E. diftant about
(fair 6 leagues. dn. 52°
à 36 S. fr. br. fair, The Mam-
+d 059% ” melons of Biobio bore Ess
d.n, 524°
13136 io. isis 00175 o1
wind, fair
ch
Latitude Longitude =
‘ of the ob- mf
aig Alt tae
Patagonia,
Fair Wea- _ + » À ~ — | 9 1128 or
g. diftant,
62°
~~ So
+
Barom. winds; State 4 pra À 1 Remarks. ' Li
- ,
in 16, 15, and 14. tathoms. °
At 8 P.M. anchored inthe
bay of Talcaguanda, in gr.
S. S. W. very little wind.
Anchored further in the
bay, in 6% fathoms ; bot-
tom fand and mud
20°S. At6P. Me:oundedy
fath. bottom of ela:
fand and mad. 4.4%. oe
Weft Long. hays bre ‘
the jby thei,
Bis of the gn i : south. | Com
Keeper, Latitude, ‘
BNO. 19.
(i MJD. Mio. mo. MAD. M. On Oe 4 D. MID.
faite) an tong. at a
|paciquen … [rqeuees dé {wings ing: to the
4 Là as reezé, fair hoh7 glita
ss S. W. À. br, fair, dn, |
SoS. W. |. be m
Ditto
Ditto Place,
S. W. 1. br. fair
Ditto ‘ 1027
Ditto
Ditto ave,
Ditto *
S. 8, W. 1. br, fair y
Ditto 13/23
1S. W. |. br. fair what
Ditto
S. SW. Ë br. fate wis
Pred t tri bid ly
ITA iy I
ÉBLIPETI LIL
CR = >
~ OU OW AW Pw DE
15 35
Obferved
at the ob-
2 \fervatory
with
compaties
NOS. 14 F We |
25 and 3 | à . \
— |S. W. 1. br. fair ae
— |S. S. W. very little wind, f
— |N. 1. br. foggy
— |N. varying tothe N.N;W. 4 r7li14
— JN. frefh br. rain 3 arr
— |S. S.E. very little wind, f 2. 15/1156
S. fr. by. Sailed from ©. 541116
15 14|tx 4/28 o2|ÿ caguar:, om the coal Lat. N.
j Chili, at 1 P.M, 18/116
— |28 03/S. frefh br. fair &olr17
218. S.W. fr. br, fair, dr, g9|118
4lS. frefh br. fair. d.n, 48° 6l118
4lS. S.E. frefh br. fair 71119
86 52/85 39/16 solr4 4lE. frefh br. overcatt, rain 49/119
87 44187 33/14) ol15 21S. S. E: frefh br. fair Æ 11]119
34 89 12/89 b |S. E. freth br. rain, d, #4 6120
90 52 418. E. frefh br. fair tylr2r
— 5 E.S.E. frefh br. cl. d,n, 2651122
5|E. frefh br. cl, 441123
4lE. frefh br. hazy s2/124
341125
46/126
20/127
dm. 4 48]129
41. frefh br. cl, 11/130
4iN. E. frefh br. fair, din,
3[N. 1. breege, fair 54132
2IN. 1breeze, cl.
o|W. N. W. ftrong br, rail 591133
28? 2\S.E. |. breeze, rain 031135
Pe SMON.E. fr.br. ge 03/136
“faw Eafter Ifland, be 58)138
1610 5f 1 W.bys. about 12112 57 bis
\ diftant 210 oalr42
Vou. II.
FUIT II I PL IS
a
“ee
f
WP
us
oe
ai
ei
pean
ane:
Ital
So
CON Oun Un BW = ©
97 49
99 II}:
A7liot 1
37403 2
551105 17
411107 ‘19
30/208 49
46, —
41/109 22
1]109 53
BIFTTTTI
ng to the
ee fair
» doit. 50
Le
fair
he N.NIW.
rain
y little wind, f
Sailed trom
on the coaft
1 P.M.
fair
br. fair, d.a.
fair. d.n. 48°
h br. fair
overcait, rain
fh br. fair
r,rain, dn
or. fair
th br. cl. d, un
cl,
bazy
light breeze, r
Io
Sr. fair. d,n,4
d,u.4
cl.
br. fair, dim
6) fair
e, cl.
, tr ong br, rail
eeze, rain
br. fair, At3P
fter Tfland, be
S. about 12 leag
y Little wind, f
by
Laticude
Ifland at
the Anch,
Place.
10/27
ul26
12126
13123
lat
co
Com Lomme “by thee
Keeper,
Nov 196
D. Mb. Mio. Mb. M\D. M| D. P, L
glita 18111 51 — 17 4/28
Lonqitats
Ifand at
the Auch,
Place,
s6l117 56, — 10/17 }28
Gjtrr 51] — | 2 26/17 |28
Sgitzt 52 — | 3 11/17 $128
S7It12 47] — | 3 58/17 4128
saliit 54] — | 3 4017 #l28
45113 52] — | 4 32/18 4/28
soft12 14] — | 4 46:19 [28
181112 55) — | 4 320l19 {28
31/1123 6! — | 4 5218 |28
291113 16) — | 4 5ÿolig {28
25/113 32/113 15) 5 Hide |
231113 28/113 25] 5 23/19 $128
39|114 10) — — io 128
96/112 56114 40114 35) — jar |28
26/1134 23/115 43] — — |20 4/28
17/114 9/116 49) — | 3 35/20
axl114 53/117 40] — | 3 g/20 4/28
15/1125 261118 26) — | 2
541116 21118 45) — | 2
N.
18/2116 33/118 of — | 2 s8lr9
&olr17/2#119 7] — | 2 121
59/1128 olt19 53] — | — |21
6|118 54l120 35| — — |21
7l129 galiat 14] — | o 4421
491119 461121 2| — I 2/21
11/119 55) — — |r 35/21:
6,129 solr21-46| — — (0%
17/1217 33/122 $5| — — {21
25122 11/123 54) — | 3 197/21
44/123 25/125 34) — — jar
52/1124 36/127 Or] —= | 2 28/20
341125 391128 19) — | —
461126 461129 38) — — |19 4/28
201127 59/131 51] — — 19 4/28
481129 13/132 35, — — |16 1h28
11|130 271134 o1| == | 4 of16 4/28
511132 22/135 50] — — (16 3/28
591133 341137 36) — | — [17 3h28
031135 09/139 oo! — | 6 3817 [28
031136 511140 §2 140 43) 6 51 a 28
33/142 31/142 20) —— |17 2128
.s7l140 12144 trlr44 2] 8 20 17 a8
oal142 161146 24, — | g ol17 128
b
| ROUND THE WORLD.
‘ther. Barom. | Winds; State of the Atmofphere; Remarks,
S.S.E. freth br. fair, At 2
6 «Mea at Eafter
Ifand, in 46 fathoms; bot-
tom fine grey fand
S.S.E. I. br. fr, At8 P.M.
failed from Eafter Ifland
.S.E. 1. br. fair, a.m. 41°
S. S. E. 1. bréeze, fair. Saw
Eafter Ifland, diftant 20
leagues. d.n, 404°
reth br. fair. d.m. 38%
1, br. fair. d. #. 34°
E. |. br. fair. dow. 33°
E. |. br. tair, 4. nm. 32°
frefh br. cl. d. #. 27°
E. trefh br. fair
. rr br. cl.
Lo fr. br. fair, d.#. 20°
refh br. fair
SE. fr. br. fair. d,n.124°
. trefh br. fair, d. 2. 12°
El. br. lair. d.n. 7°
. 1. breeze, fair. d.#. 64°
_E. 1. br. fair. d. #.24°
reih breeze, fair. d. #. 24°
.E. 1. br. fair. d. #..2°
ww wv
ZAP D A ra
.E.
.E.
.S.
.N.
.E.
.N.
we NW Vw DD VY VWWwWwW D LU)
i appt aad as a
1|S. E.1, breeze, fair. 4.8.0 |
{Ditto d.m. 4°
1|Ditto | d. m. 1°
1Ditto d. #. 1° so!
1|Ditto
1|Ditto d.m.
1|E. N, E. very Siete wind, fair
1{N. E. 1. br. fair. d.n. 6°
1/E. light breeze, rain
IN. E. le br. cl, d. n.. 10°
2|N.E. frefh br. cl. dia. 13°
2|N. E. frefh br. fair. d.#. 18°
2|Ditto d. #. 21°
2|N. E. frefh br. cl. d. a. 23°
3|Ditto d. x. 28°
3|Ditto d.#. 29°
3/E. N. E. fqually weather, cl.
pe E. fr. br. fair. Saw the
3 pee te tree. d. 2. 33
E.N.E. I. br. varying tot
3 j N. E. fair matt
eee hes light breeze, fair
3iE. fr. br. ft. rain. d.#. 33°
3|E. N. E. treth breeze, tair
alE. freth br. fair. d. 2. 324°
3lE. N. &. froth breeze, fair
Com
en, [Erin
wes Latitude, + eit.
LA-PRROUSE'S VOYAGE
pa
of the Mo
from the
| sum
101148 29
Longie, of
the bearing
taken at
nwon, de-
cording to
Cook's
chart
Sop iad
31122 1651159 34
J: re 531159
224 491160
3126 29/160
ales 02/160
ss 09/160
6,30 4 160
hs 151159 56)
833 541159 24159 31
9/34 571159 03). —
10135 511158 43) —
11137 02/158 34 _
12198. 02/158 15) —
13139 191157 47) —
1441. 371157 3/156 15
1543 12/155 48/154 54
( 59154 25) —
162152 58) —
2al1s2 41149 42
Sits
variation
22
50
; eat Ther.
Marom. | Winds; State of the Atmofphere;
P
4lE. freth breeze, fair
4\Ditto, d,n, 414°
3/E.N.E. fi. br, fair, dm, ya]
4 Ditto
4E. re Du fair
ICE. light breeze, cl.7 At 147.
4 { A.M. faw the Sandwic je À el gt
Iflands. d, », 43° |
E.N.E. |. br. fair. Runnin
along the ifle of Mowee ;
1 leay. ditt, that of Tahog
rowa bore W, 15° S, at
or 6 leagues diftance, A
chored at 4 pat 5 P, \
in the bay at the §.E.¢
of the ifle of Mowee, in 2
fathoms, bottom fine gré
fand, don. 28°
E, varying to the E.S.H
28 419 freth breeze. Sailed at
A. M: from Mowee
SE. varying to the E;S.R
and E.N.E. tr. br, At
4
P. M. the ifland Woh
bore S, at about 7 league
diftance. d. 2. 20°
5 N.E, varrying to E.N.E
12 frefh breeze, fair. dn, 44
sl. N°; fr. br. fair. din. 34
6|Ditto d, n. 38°
SE. N. E: frelh br. fqually, rai
$ E.N.E. varying totheS.E
42 light breeze, fair
S.E. varying to the S. fre
breeze, fair. -d. 2. 441°
128 216 W. fqually, much rain
1128 41S.-frefh breezes cl. d. x. 4944
S: varying to the W.N.
D s 1 frefh ou rain
28 51S, le br. fog and rain.d.#. 53!
S. varying to the E. N. B
28 5 } Seat d ac Are
3 E. varying to the S. W.
‘ ; breeze, rain
ang g j S: SW. fre br. rain aad fog
| din. 53%
aa". $ S: W. treth br. very foggy
J "1l d.n. 561° 258 38lr40
28 1! W. frefh br. fair, d. m. 59°
tag Bye N. W. frefh br. haz
HP NT gn. 60°
28 aiWeafrelhbr. cl. d. 2. 61% 4158 38|140
14 W. varying to the S. bis
Be } fqually, rain. d.n 64 anchoring
ri, W.S.W. fribr: fqually ta place.
27 i} at intervals. 4, 7, 662°
461146
22 145
93\142
41143
fair, d, n nl
» fair
ere, cl.’ At
v the Sandwic
n 33°
rfair, Runnin
fle of Mowee ;
» much rain
5 cl. d.n. 494
othe W.N.
e, rain
d rain.d.a. 534
to the E. N. B
in. d. a. 514°
to the S. W.
n
br. rain aad fog
br. very fogey
air, dim. 50°
frefh br. haz
led. 2. 614°
to the S.
ind. a 64
‘bi: fquall ri
sd, n, 664°
jos
ROUND THE WORLD.
, 501150 17 147 271148 4)22
171149 31) — | —
451447, 481345 —
461146 01143 44) — |17
aalr4s 3143 4] —
331142 s2l142 37
411143 231142 41
181142 4 — — |32
aolr4z 35/142 35
26142 2) —
541245. 43lrar 21
7142 3140 52
258 38it4¢0 28) — 30
3158 381140 221139 46
Lat. at the’
Lang.at the
anchoring anchoring
place. place.
24 49
25 30
40
19| 5 À
28
3417 $28 .
— | 5 $28
b2
W.N.W. frefh br, over-
caft. d. nm. 674°
il} W: varying tothe SiB, freth
breeze, cloudy
E. frefh br. entrent Saw
many fragments of trees,
and whales. 4, a, 72%
E.S.E. frefh br. cl. Saw
1 pen co birds and fea weeds,
LP
E.S. 4 r.br.fr, At sA.M.
Saw the coaft of N. Ame-
rica, and at noon fet Mt.
LL vw: bearing N. 32°
d,n. 74°
S. V4 'wW. varying to the E.
very little wind, foggy.
Sounded in 80 "fathoms,
bottom fand and mud
W.S.W. a calm,fr, Mount
St, Elias bore W. 42° N.
founded in 45 fath. bot-
tom muddy. At 2P.M.
anchored in 50 fathoms,
bottom muddy, Set fail at
8 P.M. dn. 74°
N. N.E. very little wind,
foggy,rn. At noon the land
was concealed by a fog
E.N.E. varyingtoE.§.E.
very little wind. | ue
neareft land bore N.
W. at 6 leagues difines
E.varyingtoS S.W fr. br.
foggy. The neareft land
bore N. 4° W. at about 6
leagues diftance
S.S.W. little wind, foggy.
Cape Fairweather ‘pore N.
78° E. at 10 P. M, an-
chored in 32 fathoms, bot-
tom muddy
S. W. 1. br..fair.
atir A.M. dm 76°
j Set fail
W.acalm. Set. Mount
| Fairweather, bearing N.6°
2
E. At 8 P.M. anchored in
the entrance of a harbour,
which bore N. 39 W. dif-
JL tance nk of a league. At
P.M. fet fail
w. light breeze, fair. At 6
P. M. anchored in the har-
bour in 6 fathoms, bottom
nn à
12
ly North
ee | Lette,
At anchor
J o lin Port des
Frangais.
At anchor
in acreek
NeW. of
Port des
Français,
At anchor
in the in-
ner extre-
6) mity of
Port des
Français.
7| Ditto
8] Ditto
9| Ditio
to] Ditto
11! Ditto
12] Ditto
33] Ditto
14! Ditto
Ditto |
235158 : 39
Latitude of;
the obfer- |.
yatory.
At anchor
38 lin Port des
Français.
19] Ditto
20] Ditto
: ‘Port des,
: Fraupait.
2174 4
[III
ELITE
LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE
«] Weft lon£| variation
by gg *$ ofthe Ther. || Barom. | Winds; State of the Atmofpheres Remar
aft. ; i
N. W. fr: breeze. Shifted
anchor this day; Cenotaph
Ifland bore E. 27° N, and
the mouth of the harbours
S. 20° E,
S.W. varying to the N.w,
very little wind. Shifted
anchor to get clear of the
mouth ofthe harbour,
d. n. 744
( E.S.E. Set fail and anchor.
ed at the top of the har.
bour, in 13 fathoms, bot-§
tom muddy; the middle
of Cenotaph Ifland bore
S. E. half a cable's length
diftant; the mouth of the
harbour, by the S. W,
point of the ifland, bore
S. 15° W,
8 3/28 2/E. varying to §. EF. 1. br. fair
7 2128 2|W. N. W. little wind, fair
8 |27 30/A calm, rain
— | — IN. W. little wind, hazy
—| — |W.N.W. very little wind, far
— | — |E.N.E. very little wind, fair
— | — E. light breeze, fair
| — [W.N. W. little wind, fair
W. varying to W. S. W.
little wind. At4A.M.
made fail for the mouth o
the harbour. At 8 A.M.
anchored in 46 fathoms,
bottom muddy
E.N.E.very little wind. At
4A. M. failed, and an.
chored at ro, waiting for
the tide in 15 fathoms,
bottom muddy
E. I. breeze, rain. Squally
8 |27 10 j
RARE]
Prd dtd dd
wea. in the night, mouth
of the harb, bore S. byW. ji
11 27 ‘SIE. N.E. fr, br. fqually, rain
7 t\27 ES. E. fqually, hazy, rain
5 |28 3lE.l.br. varying toN. W. hazy
( W.N.W. very little wind.
At8 A.M. fet fail, and
at rr A. M. anchored in
the N. E. creek, in 9 fa-
thoms water ; bottom fine
fand. ‘Fhe mouth of the
harbour bore §.30°E. and
‘the middle of Cenotaph
Ifland, N, 43° E, 2 leag,
L diftant
El |. worth
Et patitude.
D Ditto
49} Ditto
gl Ditto
{| Ditto
ha58 2
Took for
parture 5
atitude,
Ww. longy
ridian
2158 2
3158
ROUND THE WORLD. 13
Compyted
ort Longinide
‘| Weft.
Y.. fr: UM Shift
hor this day; Cenotanh
nd bore E. 27° N, and
mouth of the harbourlim
20° E,
The tide not perceptible
at this ancharage
W.S. W. very little wind, fr.
{® S. E. varying to E. E.
br. fair. dia. 7349
E. S. E. 1. br. hazy
E.N.E. 1. br, rain
jE. varying to the N. E.
fréfh breeze} rain
N.E. light breeze, rain
N.E
{7% N. W. 1, breeze, fair.
4
+ Varying to the N.W,
y little wind. Shifted’
hor to get clear of the
uth of the harbour,
» 7449
E. Set fail and anchor.
at the top of the har.
r, in 13 fathoms, bot
muddy ; the middle
Cenotaph Ifland bore
E. half a cable's length
ant; the mouth of the
bour, by the S. W,
Int of the ifland, bore
15° W.
ing to S. E. 1. br. fai
W. little wind, fair 1
»râin
little wind, ha
W . very little wind, fair
. very little wind, far
t breeze, fair
W. little wind, fair
varying to W. S, W,
le wind, At4A.M.
de fail. for the mouth o
harbour. At 8 A.M.
hored in 46 fathoms,
tom muddy
-E.very little wind. At
\. M. failed, and an.
red at 10, waiting for
tide in 15 fathoms,
tom muddy
breeze, rain. Squally
.in the night, mouth
ie harb, bore S. byW. 1
ye fr, br. fqually, rain§
46 Ditto |
17 Ditto Va
| il Ditto | -—
xl Ditto |: —
pl Ditto], —
. a calm, rain
W.N. W. 1. br. Prepared
for fhiling
W.N.W. very little wind,
fair. Set fail at 4, P, M.
W.N. W. |. br. fair. At
1} noon the mouth of Portdes
| Français bore N. 10° W.
about 4 leagues diftant
fi W. varying to S.$. W.
nl Ditto |. —
158 221139 46
Took for, point of de-
parture 58° 26° 44" N.
atitude,) and 139° 50’
longitude, the me-
Paris.
very little w. fair. Mount
Fairweather bore N. 19°
W. the mouth of Port des
Fravçais N. 10° W.
W. very little wind, hazy.
‘The entrance of the bay of
Crols.found bore N. 48°
E. dift. about 8 leagues
À varying to the S. S. W.
ort by S. very little wind.
The neareft land bore N.
45° E. dift. about 6 leag.
28 2|E. very little wind, foggy
Le N.W. very little wind,
8
471238 39
fair. ‘The entrance of Port
de los Remedios bore E.
32° N.dift. about 6 leag.
N.E. very little wind, fair.
12 Mount Hyacinth bore N.
56° W. and Cape Tichiri-
kow E. 23° S. d.n. 734°
W.|.br. fair, Cape Tichi-
3 rikow bore N. 38° W.
diftant about 3 leagues
W.fr.br. hazy. Phe middle
3
7156 30)137 191137 25
8is5 411136 401136 48
. fqually, hazy, rain
varying to N. W. hazy
NW. very little wind. 61135 4
8 À. M. fet fail, and : 18 è
1 À. M. anchored in dos 231135 271135 3
N.E. creek, in 9 fa- uls4 121135 211135 14
ns water; bottom fine Yalsg 61136 11] —
l. Fhe mouth of the 13154 41136 151 —
nour bore §.30°E. and .
middle of Cenotaph
nd, N, 43° E, 2 leg,
ant
of Ifle San Carlos bore N.
27° E. dift, about 2 leag.
W.N.W.fr. br.very thick fog
N. N. W. I. br. foggy
Ditto
S. very little wind, foggy
À varying to the E. S. E.
3
136 7
very thick fog. Saw land
this day, at abouc 8 or 10
leagues diftance
1153 50135 511135 46
.
th me ae ge
a a mt
=a =z eo eter ae sero ee ; * te, Ly ee T
à >" ; : € — _. —_ É
See aaa a E. iz z
oo TS RE SS a a os a : 2
LA PERQUSE’S VOYAGE
Computed 1 : 5 A
es adits, moi d wy Ther, | Barom. |Windss State of the Atmofphere; em
E.1. brhazy. AtroA,
faw land from N.E. to
about 10 leagues difta
At noon, fo
E. 1. br. hazy, Saw lay
. 201136 27] — 28" this day, 8 or 10 leag, ¢
tant. Foggy at interyg
N.E. very little wind, ha
At hal pats A.M.t
12/136 71136 36 land bore from N. E, }
: E. to E.S. E. difts abowks
is A ie At-noon fogs
1. br. fair. The ef
ae of Port dela Tone
bore N. 21° E, ditt. abo
4 leagucs. d.2.'78°
N.W. varying to the §,
little wind, hazy. Tig
neareft land bore N. 18°
diftant 5 leagues
N.W. varying to the W,
br. fair. Cape Heétor bo
N. 10E. and the Keroua
35/134 21134
3134 11134 3
Iflands N. 5° E; the Cy
ditt. 3 leag. and the ifland
24. Atz7 P.M, founde
in 100 fath. bottom rock!
wih varying to the S.S,
, br. fr. C. Heétor bo
Ne 59° W. diftant about
leag. the iurthelt to theof
fing of theKerowart Ifland
ee: 48° W. dift. 6 leag
l'an. 72° 50°
S. varying totheS. E. fre
br. hazy. Saw land at:
A. M. the nearett in figh
bearing N. 75° E; the mo
wefterly land N, 15°
diftant about 6 Jéague
L At noon foggy
S.E. ftr. br.foggy. At} pa
5 A. M, faw a range 0
iflands; named the mof
- welterly Cape Fleurieu
which bore N. 25° E. dif
tant g.leagues. At noon
fo
Ww NS W.1,br, foggy. The
Sartine Iflands bore S. 65
ri132 25131 { ñ 3
22|141 338) —
471132 6131
EF. diftant about 3 leagues
d. n. 664°
W.N.W.|.br. fr, varying t
3 | the N. W. Woody Poin
bore N. 33° E.
§9\129 save
6}129 25.129 o[E.S.E. very little wind, fogey
ROUND THE WORLD.
if North
Latitude.’
a.
Ther.
tmofphere; Rer
re At 10 A.
om N. E, to
eagues difta
)B8Y
LY» Saw lay
or 10 leag, ¢
at: interyg
‘tle wind, haz
ft 5 A, M, t
rom N.E, }
E. dift, dl »
At noon fogs
fair. The er
rt dela Tone
E. dif. abo
d..n.780
ig fo the §,
, hazy. Tie
‘bore N. 18°F
gues
g tothe W.
Ie Heder bo
d the Keroua
5° E; the Cay
and the iflan
P. M. founda
bottom rock!
to the S.S,
So. Heé&or bo
diftant about
s7|ta8 45l128 55
391127 571128 4 19
57 125 531126 30
§5|826. 271126 16) —
41,226 311126 38
0/126 34/126 48
15 soinr À
E.
Je wind, fogsf
rthett to the of « 10 A. M.
erouart Tfland 431126 231126 60] — [15 33l10 3/2% 2\N.-W. |. breeze, foggy
i 61 leag ie fiw a fine br. tair. At
841226 50127 7} — |14 24!12 |28 2|4 ro faw land, which bore
‘the. E. fre ; E. diftant about 8 leagues
paw land at : 21126 291. — en orn (ts 28 oN. N. W. frefh br. overcatt
neareft in figh 16/126 33) — — — jit 4h28 olN.W. 1. br. overcait. dx. 57°
SN AMM ON? as lacs — | he BE donne
ut 6 Jéague 56[124 051124 162| — — ro 4/28 o/N.W. fr.br.hazy. din. 57°
rey 42,123 531123 47| — — 12:28 oÏN. W. fr. br, foggy |
poy. Att pa N.W. |. br. hazy, foggy at
iw a range 0 intervals. The moft eafter-
med the mof ly land in fight bore S.
ape Fleurieu 1123 16123 46/124 34/12 65512 |28- OM 29° E. the molt wefterly
N. 250 E. di N. 20° W. diltance of the
es. At noon neareit land about 3 leag.
din, 574°
r. foggy. Th { N.W, varyingto the SW.
ads bore S, 65 fair. Até P.M. anchored
yout 3 leagues in 46 fathoms, bottom
Bic ‘an és Ne Dh muddy ; the placesof :an-
Pfr, varying td a, + 57 chorage at the bottom ot
Woody Poin the bay of ‘Monterey: bore
Barom. | winds State of the Atmofphere; Remarks,
o|W.S.W. calm, very thick fog
N. light breeze, foggy. At
2 P.M. faw land trom. N.
to E. N. E. diftant about
6 leagues, {von after fog-
©: d.n. 684°
Ne Wa treth-br. hazy.
At 10 A. M. foundéd in
#5 and 35 fathoms, bottom
grey fand. d. 2. 6819
S. 6. W. fr. br. hagy, rain.
Sounded in 90 fathoms,
bottom muddy ; a fog
-W. fr. br. very thick:fog
W.N. W very little wind;
frefh br. at Than. ft. At
noon faw land to the E,.
diftant about 12 leagues
N. very little wind, fair.
Cape Redondo bore. 8. 48?
E. Miiftant 6 leagues
S.S.W. almofta calm, fair.
Cape Redondo bore §, 81°
E. diftant’s leagues
. N. E. frefh br. toggy
N. |. br. foggy. Saw land
yelterday ies! to-day. d. 2.
614°
N.N.E. freth’ breeze, fog-
. Land out of fight by
3
4
3]
E
i
|
{
I
4:
6.50 W. diftant 2 leagucs.
Sailed at 13 A. M.
LA. PEROUSE’S VOYAGE
Weft Long
Nort gen ges by the by then f à RUES
eitude|: Time |ofthe Mo, . | Barom. |Winds; e e‘Atmofphere; Rem
Latitude, | weet Keeper, | from the ; ‘ Phere; Re
No. 1g.
‘ P. L.
' W. fr. br. fair. At vo'clodi
P. M. anchored in 12
thoms, bottom fine fan;
the landing place: bore
10° W. the Prefidio S.
E. land diftant § league
W.N. W. fr. breeze, fair
Ditto
W.S. W. L. breeze, fair
'W. frefh breeze, fair
W.N. W. 1. breeze, fair
j W.N.W. varying tothe
W. 1. breeze, fair
W.N. W. frefh br. fair
N. W. almoft a calm, /
4 À. M. fet fail; at
a calm; anchored in
fathoms, bottom muddy
the fort bore S. 271
diftant 2 leagues. Sail
at x o’clock P. M.
W.N.W. varying to the
At:noon the fort: bore
7° S. diftant 5 leagues
Cyprefs Point bore fro
the fort E. 7°S.
Ne W. fr. br. fair
W.N. W. frefh br. ha
d. m. 51° 50!
. W. frefh br. foggy
r. br. fair. d. a. 502°
. E. frs br, cl.
41123 461124 3417 2
By its go-| Longit. of
ing fince | the Point
leaving. | of Depart.
Talcaguana
es
|
=
411124 231123 24
44H25
121126
br. fair
1. br. fair
tto, hazy
W.N.W. very little win
fair. d. n. 434°
. W. very little wind, fais
E.N.E. I. br. fair
Ditto. d.n. 42°
Ditto
E. S. E. fr. br. hazy
Ditto
Ditto. d. 2. 414°
S. very, little wind, hazy
ree Le very little wind, foggy
S.
f
N
fi
E
2 run OZ 'ZZZ Zen
=
rtrd
RER
d,n. 41°
361146 1147 44 E. 1. br. fair
141148 4] — S.E. fr. br. hazy. dm. 41
j A calm, a light air from th
S. S. E. hazy -
46148 8/249 26 3|A calm, thunder and rain
— 4lA calm, ft.
02/149 111 +— 318. W. 1. br. hazy
N°8, The longitude of monterey, according to all the diftances taken atong the coaft, and referred to this port by the tia
keeper No 193 fe 124 deg. g Min. Wei. {
Din Shop Be plie
3
3
3
14| — —
Von. IT,
air, At 1 o’clodé
ored in 12
bttom fine {and
g 3 place bore
‘ refidio §,
ant + leapue
breeze, ps
breeze, fair
ze, fair
breeze, fair
arying tothe
7e, fair
efh br. fair
oft a calm,
fet fail; at
anchored in
ottom muddy
ore S. 271
leagues. Sail
ar rying to the
he fort: bore I
ant 5 leapues
Point bore fro
75.
br. fair
frefh br. hazy
ery little wind
432°
ttle wind, faig
. fair
2°
or, hazy
149
vind, hazy
> wind, foggy
ty
azy. dm. 41%
cht air from th
zy
er and rain
azy
this port by the tia
ROUND THE WORLD. 17
+ | Rarom. | vinds; State.of the Atmofphere; Remarks.
D. MD. ted mip. mlo. M! D. |e. L.
W. the, little wind, rain.
an. 4
¢S.S. W. very little wind,
fair. .Saw.many birds
ol A calm, rain
|S ive S. W. varying by W.to
E. very little w. rain
§ N. varying to the §. by E.
ftrong breeze, rain
Tu do very at wind, fair.
N. E. varying by E. to S.
28 3
N. N. WwW nen Saw
a number of fea-fwallows
2's. 6. E. dr, br. ixain
1S. SE, fr. br. fqually w, cl.
1|S. 6: W. ft.rain
o|W.S,W. |.br.:fair, a. 2. 372°
2[E. SE. very little wind, fair
3\E.S. E, frefh br.fair
aE. fr. br. fair, d,n. 36°
re varying to the S.'E, fr,
712 br. Saw many birds
E. gufts of wind, Saw fome
| birds, At 5 P.M, faw in
29166 38/164 40 theW. an ifland, to which
the name of Necker was
given, din, 344°
E. NE, freth breeze, At
; noon Necker Jfland bore
35|167 25/165 40 be le gt diftant 4 leagues,
+ more
tt E. i br, fair, Athalf
paftone A.M, faw:break-
ies very near us, bearing
from. N. to S. W. ‘by: the
381168 39/:66 47 W. at noon, a fmall iflet
19 «281176121178 .o
at the N. W. point of the
breakers, bore N, diftant
about 2 leagues
NA fair, Saw many birds
gi à weather, cl. :
N, W. gets cl.
111174 221173 55 alNfr. brie
7175331175 5 £9/576 47 | .1]W..1. br. fair 3
125 59/1765 $8|877 -27 8. 47/19 #28 -o!W.S. W. frefhibr, fair
. — | 9 30/18 #27 11]W, frefh br. rain
471198141176 go) — o!W. N. W. 1. br, hazy
311178 321177 161178 44) — ; 1jW.N. W. 1. br. fair
Lo E|Long.E.Long.E. 4
‘13 +49 3 179 6| = 2IN. E. fqually, cl.
“611977 451479 13] = | oom. |19 #12! 2iN. I. br. fair î
$al196 511178 35) — | 2iN. N. W. 1. br. fair
— a\N. W. frefh br, cl.
Von. IT,
U
à
LA FÉROUSE’S VOYAGE
Eaft Long. | Eaft Lone, | variation 4
the [by the pitt. “OF
A ofthe mo Seedie | Ther. ee
Keeper, rom the Eat,
sun,
Compute’
Lon situde
bi Eaft
N. W. varying to theN,
7121. br. fair 4
2/S. 1. br. fair |
1]W. N. W. freth br, hazy
1|Ditto
1|S.S.W. frefh br. cl, heavy
11W.S. W. fqually, ftr, br, d
2\N. frefh br. cl.
2IN. E. gufts of wind, cl,
3lE. N. E.1. br. fair
2|E. S. E. 1. br. fair
2|Ditto Ft ; ;
1]. S. W. little wind, fair
11W. 1, br. hazy
1/W.N.W. ftr, br. fqually,
2IN. frefh br, hazy
2|N. E. fr. br. fair, heavy fea sor on
2|E.varying tothe S.E. fr.br.f sth.
11S. W. very little wind, hay
2|N. E, frefh br. hazy
3|E..N. E. frefhibr. cl, .
3|E..fr. br. fair |
E. S.E, freth br. fair
itto
3
2
2/S. W. very little wind, hazy
At 1 P. M. faw Affump
tion Ifland S. W. by
diftant about 10 leagues R
2
D
S.
N. E. ftr. br. fqually, ¢
2] ON. E. fr. br. cl. At noon
Affunption Tiland boreE
13°N. diftance two miles
the Mangs Iflands bor
N. 30° W, dift. 6 league
ajE. N. E. frefh breeze, fair
2/E. light breeze, tair
1]W.N.W. very little w. hazy
1}N. W. very little wind, cl,
5 N.W. 1. br. fair. The fwe
j is from the North
N. N. E, frefh br. fair
E. N. &. fteth br. fair
N..E. frefh br. fair .
N.E. ftr. br. fair
E. varying to N, fr. br, fair
N.N.E. ftr. br. cl.
4lE. frefh br. hazy, rain
*4lE. frefh br. .guits of w. cl.
E.N.E, fr.br.fair. At noon
the, moft. nortberly. of the
Bafhee Iflands bore $, 40°
W. dit. about 3 leagues 4
Evang tp the ay E,
frefh br. cl. w. At un.
' rife faw one of the BateQ 3°? S0/t# 39
Idands, bearing E, 34°5.
2
2
2
3
3
3
PPUEEPET PTET AT EEE Edad
RENE ltd
ROUND THE WORLD. 19
4 Compute’
North p 7
Latitude, | 205 ee Mo. } Ther. | Barom. | winds; State of the Atmofpheres Remasks,
itt
D. M.D. MD. M.\D. phon re M. D. P, L.
AgtotheNR 22 20116 19 — 19 [28 1N. NE. ftr. br. fqually, hazy
; ¢ f ;
| iA 19/313. 541115 55 o 30/14 1/28 4!N.N.E. and N.E. ftr. br. cl.
h br. hazy ; | E. N.E.fr.br. cl. At 5
A.M. faw Piedra-Blanca,
cl. heavy bearing N. N. E. diltant
ily, tr br, ¢ 2 leagues. At noon faw
: a number of iflands; the
ind, cl, 432 10112 29 great Lemma bore: S, 65°
fair F W. diftant 5 kagues; at
fair Atanchoe 7 P..M. anchored in 14
\ rm pl. on Coa’
of China. tathoms, bottom muddy,
ind, fair 12 leagues from Macao,
which bor- W. 1° S.
br. fqually, ; N. frefh br. fqually. Ats
P.M. anchored in 54 fath.
ir, heavy fea 4) At Macao À 4 bottom muddy, 14 leag.
S.E. fr.br.f FUN irom Macao, which bore
wind, hazy W. 15.
ha: N.N.E, frefh br. At 2
} pift 11, N.
— IN. E. treth breeze, fair
N. E. freth breeze’
Here the date ischangedto the
|e E. of the Meridian of Paris
ittle wind, fair
. E. fr. br. fair
br. fair
fr. br. fair
fr. br. fair
br. hazy
qualls » hazy
br. hazy
. E. ftr. br. hazy
[TI
lt.
ll
wind, hazy
+ fqually, ¢
faw Alfons
Ê W. by
10 leagues
cl. At noon
Ifland boreE
ice two miles
Iflands ‘bor
itt. 6 league
reeze, fair
fair
ittle w. hazy
e wind, cl,
ir. The fwe
lorth
r. fair
r. fair
air :
= by
E,
E.
E.
N.
E.
N.
N
be tt SBP z3
fr. br. fair
.E.
Aa
tr.
fr. br. fair
*E.
. E. itr. br. fair
N.
N.
N.
N.
N
222
=
ito
. E. fr. br. fair
Æ
N.
N.
Di
a S
2, ©
m, rain
. E. fr. br. fair
.br. fair
. E. fr. br. fair
1. br. fair
. fy. br. fair
A
N
mz z
ir
fr, br, fair
cl.
E.
IN,
N.
Di
ET
©
PEPPEPETETA PETE ETE a baad
PETEEVVCTEEELPDEA Eda added
PYPUTTEEEEEEPU TLE
ee ee
PPP EP TEEPE EEE
PEPE TPE EET EPP EET PEt ead
PEPE PUTT PETE ET TTT
y) rain E. N. E. fr. br. fair
of w. cl. N.N. E. I. br. hazy
air. At noon N. |. br. hazy
berly. of the Ditto :
s bore $, 40% E. fr. br. hazy
t 3 leagues 1. br, fair
he N.N,E,
v. At un.
F the Bathee
ig E, 34°5
at 7 A.M.; at noon the
largeft of the Ladrone
Iflands bore N. 32° W.
+
re
+
a
©
14
C1
~
fond
‘wo
|
|
|
~
»
N.
N.
QE .fr.br. Sailed from Macao
LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE
Eaft Long. |Eaft Long.
# by theDift.
of the Mo. . | Barom, | Windes State of the Atinofphire; Rema
Lh.
11N. fr. br, fair
1 WS Li ri ‘ol fair
LIN: De Ths .
2 E. N. E, fr. or PS
2IN. N. E, fqually, cl,
o 5018 1128 2)N. E. fr. br. fair
20 #28 2|Ditto
LE. N. E, fr. br. fair
1/E. S. E. little wind, fair
11$. S. E. very little wind, fa
W.S,W. very little win
fair. At noon the ifla
of Bantam bore E, 31° |
diftant 6 leagues
PIPE EEEEDE,
©
the ifle of Bantam bore I
x Ww, 1. br. fair, A: nou
©
19° $. diftant 5 leagues
W.S.W. very little w. fai
Bantam Ifle bore E, 43°
N. fr. br. fair. At noontl
Me Bantam bore §, 57°
E. fr.br.fair.| At neon Poi
Capones bore N. 75° €.
nes bore N. 75° E.
N.E. frefh br. fair. Poi
Mirabella bore §. 82° E
the middle of that iflay
iL S. 88° R.
E.1. br. fair, ThePuerco
or Hogs, bore N. 52° I
and the Moha, N. 87°
2
j E. |. br. fair. Point C
1
At} paft 5 P. M. anchom
ed in the Port of Mi
bella. Wind the fam
| till the-24th at-noon
2 ‘ | E..N. E. fr. br,
Mid, 7 |. [CNE frefh br. fair, gail
|) at8 ALM. At6P.
ae . | ‘) -anchored in the Bay
Manilla
.N.E. tbr. Stood offa
on for Cavita. The Mol
-bore S.-50°E. -Sailed at
At anchor | A.M. At noon, Cari
26 in the bay | bore E.8N. At 7P.
vins à anch, a ‘leaguefrom Ci
vita, tothe N.-65° W.
11 fath, bottom muddy
N.N, E.-varying to the I
.N. E. freth br. fair,
-5 A. M. fet fail, and at
S7L At tener -anchored in the port
eee teas At the ob: | Cavita, two cables lengt
/ At | from land. Here we 1
mained till April 14
PLevaaeadd
PEED TUTE EAAP TAT EGTA edd
Phidbbadeda
PPTUTIPTAL EET AT ETAT ddl
21
Ther. | Matog. | winds; State of the Atmolpheres Remise
Casilla pren)
EN.E. fr br fair. The
ir mm vita bore N.
» fair thons, high water ©
ly, cl,
Ny
— |A calm, fair
N. freth breeze, fair
N. N. E. ditto
IN. E. ditto |
Ditto
E.N.E. ditto
-— N. E. ditto
28 1|Ditto
28 1|E. N. E. ditto
agues _ ra E. ditto
fair, At nog — |Ditto
antam bore I | (E.N.E. fr. br, fair. Shifted
nt 5 leagues anchor this day, and an-
little w. faim | — — |: < chored in 4 fathoms, bot-
bore E, 33° | ddy. The fort of
r. At noontl À "ee
bore S, 57° 1 =
At neon Poi :
re N.7 SE,
l'e Point C
N.7$E.
or. fair, Poi
ore §. 822E
of that iflay
- The Puerco:
ore N. 5° i
ha, N. 87°
P. M. ancho
Port of Mi
ind the fam
h at-‘noon
fair
ind, fair
ttle wind, f:
ery little win
oon the ifla
bore E, 37° 4
» ©
RRRERRRIES
Phiddbereda
ÉRRRERERSEE
PLdbdrbeddd
Tibiddi tid
PPP redid
.N.N. varying to N. ditto
E. light breeze, fair
. N.E. freth breeze, fair
N. N.E. ditto
Ditto
IN. E. ditto
Ditto
E. N. E. ditto
N. E. ditto
Ditto
N. ditto
N.N.W. ditto. d. 2. 11° 5!
N. E. ditto
E. N. E. ditto
Ditto
Ditto
N. E. ditto
E.N. E. ditto
N. E. ditto
Ditto
w
o F
1 F444 datas
re 3
or. fair, Sail
At:6 P.
n the Bay
. Stood offa
ta. The Mo
E. -Sailed at
t noon, Cavi Ditto
N. At 7 P; Ditto
guefrom C2 | N.E.fr.br. Warped the thip
N. 65° W. : to about 3 cables length to
tom muddy Zt the IN. E. by E. The fort
vying to (UT: À LL of Cavita bore N. 69° E.
br. fair, À N.E.fr.br. Warped the thip
t fail, and at : | to the ftream N. 3 cables
1 the port length; (grelins). Fort ©
> cables lens, : , Cavitathen bare N. 88° E.
‘Here we r N. E. frefh br. faie. Pre.
April 13 ~~ JE pared for failing
PEUPETTAV ETAT TT ETT ETT
PTUETETAPTEETET TED Eade
BRIE
DEA IIIENIEETIANETITTENAT
PEINTRE ETAT ATT AT Tea
DIVINE
LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE
Eaft L va Y Variation
of the | ther. | Barom. Windss State ofthe Atmotphere, ner
M.D. M.\D. M.ID. M.D. M. D. |P. L| -
: NN. E. fr. br, fair. Set fai
at noon, Fort Cavita bo
N. 90° E, diftant 1 mile
i my A à little wind
ir int of t
20 $28 210 Hand of Tw Sita
N. 46° E, diftant a leagu
* ‘ire br. fair. Point Bol
312 mao bore E. 27°N,
norther : land in fight bore
S. 63° E
1|A calm, fair:
2\N.1. br. At noon a calm
2jN.N. W. hight br, fair
HE. N. E. fr. br, fair
HE. |. br. fair
iN. N. E. very little wind, fai
3lE. |. br. tair
3|N. N. E. ditto
3|N. ditto
3|N. N. W. very Tittle w, fair
3IN. N. E. fr. br, fair
Sa
=>
PS PTI TILth
Pride ded de
N.N.E. fr. br. fair. Fo
feveral days before, had
failed over a bank, wher
we founded from 22 to 12
fath. bott. fand and rock
N.N. W. very little wind,
fair, Port Zealand boreE.
3°S. diftant 3 leagues, At
4 P. M. anchored in17
tathoms, bottom muddy
321127 42/117 59118 16
Zealand bore §. 45° E.
diftant 4 leagues. At noon
acalm. At7 P.M. an.
chored in 37 fathoms, bot-
tom muddy. Set fail, the
wind at N.N.E.
jh ‘i 7 ftr. breeze, fqually
N. à breeze, fair, At
6 P.M. the moft fouther-
ly of the Pefcador Iflands
bore N. 64° W. diltant
about 2 leagues _
E.S.E. Ï, br: fair. Lamay
Tfland line 38° E. dif
tant 6 leagu
‘ E. varying stheN by the
521317 49/117 42
N.N. W. very little wind,
Sailed at 4 À. M. Port
E. |. br. ft.andr. At noon,
the Ifland of Botol, or Ta-
baco-xima, bore N. 7° W.
diftant 5 leagues
+ fair. Set fai
t Cavita bo
Rant 1 mile
y little wind
+ point of th
Vo Sifters bor
tant a lea
din fight bore
on a calm
br. fair
. fair
ttle wind, fai
|
little w. fair
. fair
br. fair. Fo
before, had
à bank, wher
from 22 to 12
nd and rock
ry little wind,
aland boreE,
3 leagues, At
chored in 17
tom muddy
y little wind,
A.M. Port
e §. 35° E.
ues. Atnoon
7 P.M. an-
fathoms, bot-
Set fail, the
E
reeze, fqually
e, fair, At
moft fouther-
cador Iflands
PD W. diftant
1es |
fair. Lamay
. 38° E. dil
8
b the N. by the
dr. Atnoon,
Botol, or Ta-
ore N.7°W.
rues
ROUND THE WORLD. : -
Eaft Long.| Eaft Lon
Keeper, | from the
Cat. & Loa,
28 of the N. 330
‘of Noni”
0 ort
55| of North |x27
by the [by thenints| Variation
ime of the Mo,
of the
Needle
Eaft,
Ther. | Bsrom.
Wind; State of the Atmofphere ; Remarks,
N.E. 1. br. fair. The Ifland
Botol bore N. $° Ww, dif.
tant 3 leagues. At 6 P.M.
it bore N. 47° W. diftant
1 league.
1)N.E. varying tothe E.fr.br.fr.
2E.S.E. ve
little wind, fair
S. E. little wind, fair. At
noon the N. E. poinc of the
Ifle of Kumi bore E. 14°
S. and the S. E. point bore
S. 28° E. dift. two miles
.E. fr, br, fair, At 8 A.M,
the Ifland Hoapinfu, or
South Ifland, was in the
fame bearing as North
Ifland,N.48E. Our dif-
tance froin the former was
. 2. miles, and from the lat-
ter 6 leagues. At noon,
the Tfland Hoapinfu bore
S. 20° W. dift. 8 leag, and
the North Ifland bore §,
22° E. diftant 4 leagues
. S. W, frefh br. tair
§.W. vary, to N.N.£.fr;br,
S.S.W. L.br.foggy, Sounds
ed in 55 and 50 tathoms,
bottom fand :
S,S.W. varying to the W,
© N.W. L br. fr. very foggy
w. Sounded in 65 and 4¢
fathoms, bottom muddy
S.S.E. very little wind, fogs
gy: At # paft 6 P.M.an-
chored in 45 fathoms, bot-
. tom mine
W.S. W. I. breeze, foggy,
Sounded in 45 and 50 ta-
thoms, bottom muddy, Ag
7 P.M. anchored in 42 fae
\ thoms. bottom muddy
"S. S. W. very little wind,
Rill forgy. At s P, M,
fet fail. At 10 P, M,
anchored in 39 fathoms,
bottom muddy, very thick
fog
S.S.W.I. br, At ro A.M,
fet fail, wind at E. N, E,
1. br. fair
E.N.E. 1. br. hazy. Sound
ings from 45 to 24 fi
thoms, bottom muddy
24
mr lite, ment
Keeper, from the
No 19e
Maunho 47/133 44, —
19/32 “15124 spa 42
i )
« |
f
#7l122 4 3 0
f
Wires ro) ae
34l1a3 45/123 56
59 124 161124 23 124 é
/ |
! : |
‘40/1125 731125 22 Lee
\ ‘
7 |
j » |
‘ | |
3} 446 ‘31146 "2)| — |
310126 46[ri6
: | |
“églt27 251127 351127 12
; 1] )
% 7 \ |
23/127 7 il —.
!
DES |
“gilra8 hs dl —
D. MID. MID. MP. D. MD. M
D à
ce aces Reed e
1 ‘45/12
ces
I
Ther.
M| D.
12 }/28 o!
11 thy aby
LA PeRovsE’ 8 VOYAGE
Barom. | Winde; State of the Atmofphere; Re
L, P.
28 o
10 427 ny
11 iT °|
13 ls
13
12
sax
|27 10
27-11
t
|
4h7 14
17 11
i
ri
“ti
E.N.E.very little w. f
Sounded in 36 and goth
. very little wind. Sounds
in 36 and 25 fathoms, bot
tom fandy. At} patts /
M. anchored in 25 fath
At 10 fet fail; at noont
wind at E.very dead, hazy
At4 pait 8P, -anchore
in 32 fath, bottom fani
E. very little wind, Seth
at 6 A.M.wind at E.fr,)
hazy. At 4 patt6 P,
jored i in 25 fath. bo
tom fandy. At 6 fet fai
1, airs at N. the current
miles per hour
.V AU little wind, foggy
W. fr. br.cl. SLA
in 36 atid 40 fathoms
W.S.W. |. br, At noont
W. point ‘of uelpaert I
bore N, cole Mahe
leagues. dum. 45° 5
‘little wind, fair, TI
fouthermott ifands | infigh
Lig N.1 ut the W..mo
9° W. diff. 5 league
. 1. br, fair; sel fe
The fouthernmok coat ¢
Corea in view, bore
35° N. the northernme
N, 27° E, dift. 3 leagu
. N.E, little wind, fai
The northernmoit coaft ¢
Corea, in- view, bore
20°F. Ran along this co
at 2 leagued diftance
S. W. frefh br, fair, Th
northernmolt point ofC
fea boreiN, 20° W. dif
2 leagues. Soundediin
fathoms. din. 44°
à NIE.l,brlft. a Rp
À veted us from feeing la
NW). bre hazy. Theno
thernmoft lan of Corea
fight bore N. 52° W. di
tant 8 leagues, Steered
theE. to explore the ifla
“of Japan.’ At 3 P.Mif
an ‘fiend bearing N. 15°
dift! 15 lea . Atnoont
“fiddle oft is ifland, cal
[fe Dagelet, bore N.17°
diftant 4 leagues. dia. 45
"| North
, | tatitud
ROUND THE WORLD. 25
Hatt Lon,, | Fat Lon
Wi! orth | Computed | by the by thepit| Variation
4 Ther. | Barom. |Winds; State of the Atmofphere; Remarks.
LE",
M | gtude, | hongitude | Time |of the Mo,
ite Of the Atmofphere, Re à dan | meepers | tram the
M.D. M|D. MID. MID. Mj D.\P. L.
8 — 2 P
Every little w. foggy a5 wie + 1 nr. of a tant 1989s, fr. br. fair
inded in 36 and 40 fa |Dag-lev 0. bupeletiil, S.S.E. fr. br. fair, At 6
ya sable « Soundy 18 zal129 47/129 45] — | 1 4412 [28 1 ft + She fight of Dage-
ioms, bo et Hla
n fandy. At} pats A 448 221130 34/130 41 — | 428 (|S. S. E. treth br. fair
ner in 25 fatty, 158 12131 27131 35 — 28 «6118.8 SE. 1. br. fair
By bond Ir 4: 101132 13 © 36113 i ofS. v fy, toN.E. 1. br. fair
4 pait sP. adie 137 171132 341132 32 o 20/12 3128 a} SN he pis to the 8, F.
32 fath. bottom fani 131133 17) — — 13 |27 1118. little wind, foge
ty lie wind. Se 71433 321133 38) — — 12 |28 ofS. 1. br. foggy. 44 47°
MW at£ir, 4 —_— = 8
SALE x || “ RIRE ET à hour pi ù
jored in ? fath. bo 51) ot youth 1135 20) “ju fe moft point bore E. 9° £
n'fandy. At 6 fet fai | Latituite of Lone. of Ran along the coatt of Jas 1e
ap ba og current PCC Ley een pan, and pafled to the E.
ele wind, f Lee" + JF of the Tland Jootf-fimes
yw, fet nd, ogpy 18 the $.-mott 13 thes. itt which bore at 4P. M. E.
re br.cl. Sounds pus Oy) Sp bine in and W. The point of the
36 aT 40 fathoms japan, Japan, fame name bore S. 66° E.
. At noont 281134. 40/134 55) — sania LL 11S. E. I. br, hazy
“pained gent 20133 31/133 39) — | oO 7133 11S. S. W. freth br. foggy
gues. den. 45° Wet.
Matilda 3 he ut hehe: sito 2|$ yw Ww. ioe is fqualls,
ithermoft iflands infi | en dou
te N, 1495 the Ward ap tote
«M0 10 aw the north
9° W. dift. 5 league 491131 56131 4ol130 54 o 3,10 coaft of Corea, in the N.
1, vt fair; a calm fe 3 At noon, were dift. from
ni Te lad Fatt. Ay 12 leagues. d,#,47° 3
° .N, the nortlternmo 55,131 48131 45131 61 6) 9 2127 7
, 27° E, ditt. 3 leagw
N. E. little wind, fai
he northernmott coat 5132 16132 23
prea. in-view, bore
SE. Ran along this co
2 leagues diftance
. frefh br, fair. T
tl ft point of C ss
bore ee W. di 491132 43132 41 P
leagues. Sounded i in
thoms. di Nn. 44
IE. |, bri tt. ap
nted us from feeing la 43 31133 45/233 56
ol. bis hazy. The no
ernmoft lan of Corea
rh: bore N. 52° W. di
nt 8 leagues, Steered
e E.to explore the ifla
Japan.’ At 3 P.M.f
ifland bearing N. 15° 134 32] — 3 e
| t
ft 15 leag. At non 44.47) — 27 9!
|
§.S.W. varying to the Ww.
“fr. bre din 48° 5!
“N.E.|. br. toggy. At noon
the N.-moft land in fight .
bore N. 2 E. and the
W.-molt, N. 65° W. dil-
tant 5 leagues
‘ .W. little wind, fair. The
11S. S
915.
land which at noon bore N.
was dift. 2 leag. Sounded
at that dift. in 120 fath.
bottom muddy. dm, 53°
U Bi W. light breeze, fair.
Ran along the coat oi
Tartary, at the diftance of
2 or 3 le agues
S.S.E. light! ~reeze », forge.
Always | in hEnt of land.
d. LE «5°
S. W. little wind, foggy
E. very littl wind, togsy
at y vals. d.n. 55°
S.W. 1. be. very thick fog
S.W. com br. togyy
31234 21, —
q
oi 33134 28
À
a
iddle of this ifland, call | 7
de Dagelet hore N.17° ad M 52 “ras 13 »7 10
ftant 4 leagues. dim 45
Vou. II,
des
July, | Latitude.
1787.
Jy. 1147
2147 521137
At anchor
in the bay
of Suffren,
3147 51
Eat son Fatt Long.
by theDift.
of the Mo,| :
Variation
of the
neareft land dift, 4 leag,
S.S. W .very little wd fogo yim
at intervals. At noon the
N. -moft land in fight bore
N. 20° E. and the nearef
land bore N. 29° W,
.E. frefh breeze, fair, y
Kil j thick fog ae
Acalm, fair. The neareft
land bore W. 20°N, dif.
tant 3 leagues
- |" E. freih breeze, fair.
27 10
At anchor in the bay o
Ternai
A calm, rain in the courfe
eae # of the day
8 |28 o|N.E. 1. br. fair
dia 3 ao
pue fr. br. fair. The nearet
land bore N. 46° W, dif.
tant 2 leagues. d. #. 580
54137 34 : 11|N. N. E. overcatt, |. or.
W.S.W. |. br. foggy at in.
tervals. The neareft land
bore N. 55° W. diftant 3
leagues. At 7 P.M. an.
chored in 36 fathoms, bot.
tom none 2 leag. from
land; foggy
34137 22 ,8 ofS. light He
At 10 P.M. fet fail to ap-
proach the fhore ; wind at
33137 37
S. foggy. At .noon an-
chored in 2.5 fathoms, hot
tom fand and pebbles, 1
mile from land
N.E. 1}. br. At8 A.M.
the Bifcay yawl was fent
4 afhore, but could not land
on account of the fog
Set failat 8 A.M. At noon
a calm, foi eey: At6 P.M.
anchored in 44 fathoms,
bottoin fine fand
28137 48 10]./, 2. 60° 5!
ne fail” at noon, and ran
25
along the coa't of Tartary;
the wind at N.N.E, light
breeze, foggy
20 139 19
aly
bl
ide.
fh breeze, fair,
br in the bay o
rain in the courfe
leagues
air. The nearet
N. 46° W, dif.
gues. d.n, 58°
reaft, |. or.
.br.foggy at in.
The neareft land
5° W. diltant 3
At 7 P.M. an-
36 fathoms, bot-
dy, 2 leag. from
SY
e
MI. fet fail to ap-
e fhore ; wind at
At .noon an-
25 fathoms, bot-
and pebbles, 1
land
At8 A.M.
y yawl was fent
it could not land
ROUND THE WORLD.
27
ee. eed aoa "Renn ROGERS EN EPERSRSERA (ERR LME VÉÉÉÉSEE | eaten ec dé
é as mn sons Eaft vee
ompute y the /by theD
ofthemo.| of the
Keeper, bia the
py, | North | congitude| Time
iyty. | Latitude. | “OSB
No. 19.
eee | Core |
D. M.D. M.\D. M.\D.
311139 19/139 11
231139 321139 41
151139 ite 54
221139 53,139 57
Variation
Needle | Ther.
Eaft,
MJD. M.| D.
41140 10140 16139 20] I
531140 101140 25
Latitude of
ong. of
49 nr ig 140 29 the suet
13/140 0
271139 29
— |0 47lrr
oO 49/13
Barom. |Winds; State of the Atmofpheres Remarks.
S. fr. br. At 8 A.M. fawa
very high peak, and a low
point, bearing N. 80° E.
diftant 10 leagues. The
N.-moft point in fight of
the continent of Tartary
bore N. diftant 9 leagues ;
fair w. Atnoon Lamanon
Peak bore N. 66° E. ditt.
12 leag. the neareft land
of Tartery in fight bore N.
L 45° W. d. n. 63°
‘A calm, hazy w. At noon
the N. point of the ifland
of Segalien in fight, bore
N. 35° E. Lamanon Peak
bore N. 44° E. and the
S.-moftland E. d.2. 63° 5’
S. S. W. 1. br. very thick
fog. Sounded in 62 fa-
thoms, bottom muddy
S. little wind, foggy
S. S. W. frefh br. fair. At
noon the entrance of a bay
bore S. 33° E. diftant 6
leagues ; and the neareft
point of land S.83° E.dift.
4 leagues. d.n. 65° 3!
“§. trefh br. fair. Lamanon
Peak bore N. 1° E. the
entrance of a bay N. 73°
E. diftant 3 leagues, and
the neareft land S. 45° E.
diftant 2 leagues
S.fr. br. fair. At 6P. M.
anch. in Baie de Langle,
in the Ifland of Segalien,in
14 fath. the village bore
E. 24° S. à of a league
. Ats A.M.
failed from Baie de Lan-
gle. d. n. 63° 5’
iS. frefh breeze, foggy
11/S. S. W. ditto
10|S. ditto
10|S. S. E. |. br. foggy
221139 9
tof the fog 2
201138 47
A.M. At noon
egy. At6 P.M.
in 44 fathoms,
ie {and
noon, and ran
oat of Tartary;
tN.N.E, light
53
121138 42
S. S. E. frefh br. overcaft.
Lamanon Peak bore N.
65° E. diftant 4 leagues,
and the neareft point of
land N. 80° E. diftant 2
leagues. At2 P. M. an.
chored in Baied’Eftaing,in
20 fath. bottom muddy,
+ of a league from land
LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE
Eaft Long.| Eaft Long.
by the by thepitt,
ime the No.
Keeper, jé the
No. 19. sun.
et
Computed
orth
thd oat Longitude
3. | ‘Latitude, Fait.
éme |
Variation
of the
Need)e
Eañ,
D. MJD. MIL
311140 261140 30) —
521140 31/140 38139 59
24151
29140 261140 29) —
25151 291939 46/139 47) —
o 55114
Ther.
Earom. | Wind ; State of the Atmofphere ; Remarks
S. 1. br. | Ata A.M, fet
fail, the wind S. frefh br,
hazy. At 7 P.M. anchored
in 39 fathoms, bottom find
fand, 1 league from land,
d n. 64°
S. 1. br. rs At4 AM.
fet fail; at noon the neare(
land bore N. 11° E, dif.
tant 2 leagues
leagues. At 4 pait 2 an.
chored 42 fath. bot. mud-
dy, 14 league from land
S. almoft a calm, foggy. At
5 A.M. fet fail; al, br,
from the S. fuir. ” Our an
choring place, called Ruif-
eau des Saumons, bore S.
10°E. and the neareft lan
E. 22° S. 14 leag. Sound.
ed in 395 38, 35 30, and
29 fathoms, bottom fandy,
till4 P.M. Ato, 24 fa-
thoms. At? pat 9, an-
chored in 22 fathoms, bot.
tom fandy
Pt 1. br. At3 A.M. fet fail;
at noon, the neareft land
i E. 20° N. diftant 4
near the middle of the
channel of Tartary. At {}
paft 7 P. M. anchored in
24 fathoms, bottom mud-
dy. d.n. 71°
S.1. br. hazy. At4 A.M,
fet fail; foggy, |. breeze;
courte welterly. Soundet!
in 22, 20, and 12 fathor 5,
till } paft 9, when we came
toanchor. At 2 o'clock
fet fail, and ftood to the N.
E. running along the hore
At 4 paît 7 founded in 19
fathoms, bottom fandy;
anchored fame hour, 2
| _ leagues from land
}
S. 1. br. hazy w. Sounded
from 80 to 45 fath. rang.
ing along Segalien Ifland.
At noon the neareft land
bore E. 11° N. diftant 2
leagues and the S.-mol
land bore N.6°E. Sound.
ed in 15, 16, 18, 20, and
28
22 fathoms, as we drew
RE | Nort!
Latitude.
a
eee
D. M.\D.
h Compute
Longituda
Eaft.
st 40140
er 441140
ST 291139
1951 29/139 4
30
31
191140 :
LH
nofphere ; Remarks,
(ial
t 4 A. M. fet
dS. frefh br,
P.M. anchored
s, bottom fine
ue from land,
. At4 AM,
oon the neare/
+ 119E, dif.
es
yw. Sounded!
45 fath. rang.
egalien Ifland,
e neareft land
ON. diftant 2
At + palt 2 an.
ath. bot. mud.
ue from land 29151
st
le
18151
fuir. Ouran
e, called Ruif-
mons, horeS,
he neareft lan
3 leag. Sound.
8, 355 30, and
y bottom fandy,
» Ato, 24 fa
t % patt 9, an.
2, fathoms, bot.
. A.M. fet fail;
se nearelt land
ON. diftant 4
d the S.-mott
1.6°E. Sound-
6, 18, 20, and
3, as we drew]
nicdle of the
artary. Atl
M. anchored in
» bottom mud-
12
» At4 AM.
yey, |. breeze;
rly. Sounded
nd 12 fathor 5, i
, when we caine
At 2 o'clock
ftood to the N.
along the fhore,
founded in 19
ottom fandy;
ame hour, 2
1s land
9148
North
# À Latitude.
eal
D. M. D. M.
alm, foggy. At 40) —
t fail; al. br Jr em
ROUND THE WORLD. 29
Fatt Long.| Eaft Lon
Computed; by the? by theDitt Variation
Longitude | Time | ofthe Mo.) Needic | Ther. | Barom. | Winds; Stateof the Atmofphere; Remarkss
Eaft. Keeper, | fromthe tt
No. 19 Sun. k
D. .M.\D. MD. M D. |L. P.
S.S.W. Saiïled at ro A.M.
fe ftood off and on co
get to the fouthward into
deeper water
S. S. W. ftr. breeze, rather
foggy. Sounded from 8 to
40140 3
TR a a À et 123: 148
44 14
9) 12) 14, 15, 38, and 21
tathoms, bottom muddy.
Sounded P. M. in 18, 16,
15, 14, 13, and 12 fath.
At 4 paît 7 P.M. anch. in
Bai: de Caftries, in 11 fa-
tons, bottom muddy
S. S. W. frefh breeze, fair.
Shifted anchors and an.
chored in 5% fathoms, bot-
| tom muddy
— 12 |27 11S. very little wind, foggy
— |13 |27 10/E. S. E. very little wind
— {13 |27 1115.S.E. 1. br. fair
1 50] — |27 111$. very little wind, fair
CE. N. E. very little wind,
| varying tothe S.E. At
|
|
|
La
re
te
ce
291139 51
29/139 41
4 P.M. fet fail. At8
P. M. Cape Cloftercam
bore S. 18° W. Sounded
in 12 and 14 fathoms
S.S.W. varying to the §.S.
E. very little wind. At
noon, the nearett land bore
N. 35° E.
Li S. W. varying to the §.
19,140 141140 7] — | 1 713 #28 of
S.E. very little wind, fair.
Soundings increafed as we
$1139 27,139 27) — | 1 128 ol¢ fteered foutherly, to 45 ta-
ss oblate 4 Et a 4 thoms. At fidoh the land
bore W. 11° N. diftant 3
leagues.
35139 521140 16 — [io |27 111$. fr. br. toggy w.
|
|
LS
+
18139 53/139 50
61140 7) — _ r 8l:i3
fea, haz
131139 411139 28) — Fe is coatt of Tartarv, bearing
48° E.
27 «91S. fr. br. hazy
27 6 fs S.W. Fath leesse, heavy
S.S.W. frefh breeze, vary-
ing to the N. round by
W. and E. N. E. very
little wind, fair. Saw the
S. 55° W. and N. 38° E.
Lamanon Peak bore S.
N. ftr. br. fair. Lamanon
» 4 Peak bore N. 48° E. the
138 53) © 52
|
251140 55140 1 S.-moft point in fight bore
S. 66°F,
= HE à de ET
" ETES EEE
aR pra er aan pati he et
D eae
=" = = PLu BEL a.
30 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE
Eaft Long
Auguit,| North |Computed! bythe [by thebi
3787. | Latitude. FAR meee (i
NO. 19.
i Variation
of the | ther. | sarom. | Winds; State of the Atmofphere; Rema;
eee me — | cece |
. MID. M\D. M. D. |P. L.
241140 11/138 37| 1 27113 4/27 10
211140
27/141
91142
20/143
91144
571144
191146 7/146 21
271148 61148 9
10/148 50/1438 56
141148 47| —
12/148 49148 9
22/149 24149 15
N. ftr. br. fair, a large fe
The middle of Monnerg
If. bore S, 29° W. and t
Peak of Bernizet N, 32°F
At half patt 7. P, M. a
chan in 40 fathoms, bo
Ifland N.55° W. and Cad
Crillon E. 18° S,
IP fr. br. fair. Aty A,
fet fail,with a].air,at noo
At & pattrr,acalm. À
chored 2 leag. from Poi
Crillon bearing N, 72°
Langle Peak ‘bore S. 3q
W. AtÆpait 12 at noo
fhifted anchor, when Cap
Crillon bore S. 13°E. an
Langle Peak S. 29° W,
A calm, fair, At8 A.M
failed and pañed the ftra
which feparates Jefo fru
Oku-Jeflo; wind at N.E
1. br. hazy
Si ain, fair. Cap
nn bore N. 30° E. an
ane le Peak S. 81° W.
- br. fair. At noo
Cape Ania bore N,9°E
. E à br, fair. Cap
É
| Aniva bore §. 84° W.
a ie .S.E. fr, br. hazy, foggy:
d.n. 54°
E. S. E. varying tothe N
i E. hazy
N. vileaingto.8: S.E. roun
by E.' little wind, foge
at intervals. d.2. 58°
gS. fr. br. hazy. Saw Siate
| § I(land, which bore $.1°F
S.W. tr. br. cl. Ran alor
a Staten Ifland
Ay F4 Pa wind, foggy
Ay L ges resin to the W
S. Rk foggy
S. Ww. raving to the
S. “a wind, very thick
fog
©
S. light breeze, foggy. One
of the Four Brothers
Iflands, bore S. 2° W.
din, 52° 5
$ 27l10 27 1
=
Computed
Me, i + tude
D. D. M. D. M.
1547 281149 47
647 201149 48
111150
‘53 1
| Anchared
a: Awatf-
| cha from
Sept, 8, tol
| goth.
tmofphere; Remar
15147
ir, a large fe
¢ of Monner di 36
29° W. and t vi
mizet N, 32°}
t7. P.M.a
> fathoms, bo 7147
2 leagues fro
Lang'e Pe
'W. Monnerg
°'W. and Cag
1805.
‘ir. At4 A,
a l.air,at noo
racalm. A
ag. from Po}
ing N. 72°
k “bore S. 30
pat 12 at noo
or, when Cap
: S. 13°F. an
k S. 29° W, ays
. At8 A.M
afied the ftra
rates Jefo fru |
wind at N.B wag
Im, fair. Ca 2
N. 30° E. and |
k S. 81° W. 349
air. At noo dis
à bore N.9°E |
r, fair. Cape
S. 84° W.
r.hazy, fogey UE ¢
ying tothe N
S.S.E. roun
> wind, foge
d.n. 58
y. Saw Siater 752
h bore S.1°F |
cl. Ran alor
wind, foggy4
ng to the W
e, fogey. One
ir Brothers’
e S, 2° We
North
Latitude,
mers
D. M.\D. M.'D. M.\D. MAD. M. D.
(o]
| goth.
ROUND THE WORLD.
Eaft Lông. | Baft Lone,
by che” (by thepia,| Variation
Computed
wet fs ‘
Eatt. Keeper oe e
No.19, | St, Batt.
281149 47) — — — |
20/149 48) —— — — |11 |27
111150 3150 3, — — |9 i271
7/149 441149 44] — y tel © 48
|
|
N
rs)
oo
191149. 59! —
571150 48/151 10] — — | 8 [28
151152 18] — — — 3/28
ited 53); — — — {12 |28
aglt55 381155 32) — | — | 9 +27
161156 241156 23} — |6 319 |28
231156 25,156 ce 23} 6 410 [28
561157 171157 40,157 15| 6 53] 9 4)27
25/157 56157 361157 14] — | 8 d27
ste
47,156 54156 57/156 42) —
‘53 gosse 1395. 44h, —
irying to the | Anchared
nd, very thick jena fiom
Sept, 8, to)
ce: [eme canne. |
10
31
Time ofthe Mo.| Yeedje | Ther.| Barom. |Winds; state of the Atmofphere; Remarks,
a te S. E. 1. br. fogey
S.S.E.varying to the N. and
at nocn to an W. very lite
tle wind, foggy
paft 3 the fog cleared up;
faw the Ifland Mareckan,
bearing fron N. 67° E.
to S. 6°E.
S. W. varying to N. round
yw, and N.N.E. At
noon almoft a calm, over-
caft: the N. E. point of
Mareckan bore N. 73° E.
the S.W. point bore S.37°
E. and one of the Four
Brothers, S. 37° W.
E. varying to the N. E. I.
breeze, overcaft. Proceed-
ing through the ftrait of
La Bouffole, at 4 A. M.
the S. point of Mareckan,
bore N. 30° E. diftant five
leagues; foggy
NE S. W. l. br. At half
1|W. S. "Ww. 1. br. overcatt
1|Di
1|S.
tto, very little wind, foggy
S. W. ftr. br. foggy
11|W., ditto
aes
2|S.
|
|
an
||
;
W. Ms W. very little wind,
we de. br. cloudy
S. W. fr. br. foggy. At
3 P. M. faw the land of
Kamtfchatka
W. freth breeze, cloudy.
At noon the volcano bore
N. 38° W.
N. W. 1 br. fair. The en-
trance of the Bay of Awat!.
cha bore N. 50° W. and
the volcanoN.5°W. At
7 P.M. anchored in the
Bay of Awaticha, in 7
fathoms, bottom muddy 5
the harbour of St. Peter
and St. Paul bore N.
43° E. and the volcano,
N. 13° E.
Acalm; at 1 P. M, the
air from the SE.
LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE
Varia‘ie:
Corredtion.| True Bat Jon. Barom. | Ther.
Longitude | L Remark
W.S. W. frefh breeze, fair
Ditto
W. fr. br. fair
N.N.E. ftr. br, fair
N.W.fqually, rain, d. y, 4
10 654[W.S. W. ditto
3S. ditto
S. W. ditto, overcaft
. W. ditto
+ S. E. ditto. 4, », 3610
° E. 1. br. overcatt
N. E. |. br. fair
. little wind overcait
.S.W. fr. br. fair. dr. 33
itto
12 42 S. W. ditto
ee N. W. ftr. breeze, rai
d.n, 28° 50’
E. 1. br. fair
N.N. W. fr. br. fair
18127
157 43/49 44/27
157 45147 57127
153 4146 27/27
21158 5044 42/27
41159 3643 16128
OP ee TY Lied
81161 47/43 17128
10/162 30/41 23/28
131162 28/40 26,28
161162. 55139 41/27
19/163 16138 46/28
22/164 18/38 46128
25/164, 5128
281165 37128
311167 7 37128
341170 28/28
Pm ORW O 0919 OW:
Le = =
HW DO CHUA À Un ©
Rm Po Dj pie ph ?
Daw pics
Det = =
PRR
he
vie
= NP we ©
Di Dé ee ee eee ee
37l171 28/28
401173 25127 2
4175 15/28 W. ditto, overcatt
4c|177 N. W. ftr, bri ditto
48 179 S. E. little wind, ft.
50|179 N. W. fr. br. fair
wt on Oo
|
9000000 0 000000000000
$i pus pos
11 5o!S. ditto, overcait
2110 Cc Ditto
W.S.W. ftr. br. rain
W.1,. br. fair
N.N. W. ft. br.
N. E. fr. br. fair
E. ditto, overcaft
S$. guils of wind, ditto
S. W. little wind, rain
g| A calm, fair
g/L. |. br. overcaft
— (|E.N.E. fr. br. ditto
ik. ftr. br. ditto
|E. N. E. ditto, cl.
2127 30; Ditto
— {Ditto
— JE, ditto
— /|Ditto
11 16 Ditto
— |E.S.E. ditto, rain
10 236 Ditto :
— jE.N.E. fr. br. fair. d nr!
41g = 7 |Ditto, fr, br. rain
— LE S.E. ditto
— |Ditto. din. 44°
8 30!D:tro
9 13\Ditto, fair
9 37\Fh. N.E, 1, br. fair
59/179 11135
§2/178 20/34
o
531176 53132
541176
541176
541176
541177
55175
551175
551175
56175
561176
© 57176 2h17 5428
Oo 57176 316 1628
O 571176 4114 492%
© 57/176 612 5628
PrTtddl
0000000000
Un Un Un Un Un ed A AD D A wd wd LU) WWWW ND WN
D D ee Def Dé bé
Om HN 5 D NW © D mn m0 PHO O "
n
ew
Om Om m Om mem ON +
—
o
© 59175 27| 7 38,27
ae jd — |4 31/28
0175 91 3 39/78
11176 56, 3 9/28
21176 22) 2 4/28
21176 29| o 54/28
South.
31176 36, 0 34] —|— |10 6 Ditto
4,176 10! 1 4528 oo dito 44iDitto
4 ~
O00ONOm = O
see © en
w
Vor, IL,
rmofpheres Remark
1 breeze, fair
or. fair
rain. d, Me 4
tO
vercaft
d, n, 3610
ercalt
'. fair
overcaft
fair. den, 33
fr. breeze, rai
oi
br. fair
rcalt
. ditto
nd, ft.
fair
aft
br. rain
br.
fair
raft
nd, ditto
ind, rain
aft
r. ditto
0
AE
) rain
fair. d n.10)
rain
35
38
Fat.
Dé D Dei Dei Di De ee |
I
1
1
I
I
I
1
1
I
I
I
I
I
Tt
I
I
I
I
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
ROUND THE WORLD.
18]174. 31125
20/172 21/25
22/170 24/26
241169 28/28
7 to #9 9
7
11/27
28
35123
25127
43127
55/27
4127
39/27
26127
36/27
20/28
41178
21/23
27
0/28
51/28
42/23
0|27
Variation
Eine, | winds; State of the Atmofphere; Remarkey
Ratt,
LJ D.|D. M
ol2o #1 9
of21
N.E. fr. br. fair
PEN NW tte wind, 8
N. e e ittle ’ ‘aire
à cd i don. 6°
Ww. N, Ww. ditto
1121 Élro N. N.E, ditto
N. fr. br, fair
N.N. W. ditto
W. tt
N. W. fir. br. rain
W. S: W. ditto, ft,
$3] W. | br, fair
431W. N. W. a calm
55 E. Ss. E. I. br. fait
45 Ditto , ’
4.2| Ditto
31lE. |. br. fair
E. little winds dim. 18$°
E. 1. br. tair
E.N.E. lit‘ le wind, fair
SIN. E. very little wind, tair
27/E. S. E. a calm, ditto
E. N.E. 1. br, fair
Es N. E. 1. br. fair
E. S. E. ditto
{Vitto
10 §31N. E. little wind, fair
N.N. E. frefh br. {air
N. N. W. guits of wind, rain
38 W. N. W. fr. br.
N. N. W. |. br. fair
Ditto
N. cloudy
Do. rain. d. 2. 29° 22! 30”
N.N. E.1. tr. fair
oj21
t1j21 À
11/21
11/20
11/19
4119
olr9
t1|19
10/18
11119 à
11/19
Air
trlt9 Fe very little wind.
50 W. S. W. |. br.
S.S. W. very little wind,
j fair, din. 34°
21/19
r1l19
ol18 tro
or9
019
‘[10
N. E. ditto
Ditto
E.N.E. fr. br. d.n, 37°
Ditto, fr. br.
Ditto, d.m. 39°
N. E. tr. br.
N. N.E. fr. br. overcalt.
din, 46° 45’
11h17 À
o!13
ol18
o}18
22/16
e
LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE
: 4 [vegatien :
son oft
LR: Barom, | Ther. Needle Windes State of the Atmofphere; nemart
*Tcorre@ion. fs a
| | ns |S
[Se
M.D. .M.ID. MJP. L,| D. D. M.
J.12169 47| 2 251167 20188 57/27 8116 4 — |W.1.br. fair. dm. 51024
29/1268 ,3al @ 27/166 529 1127 190/16 | — |S.E. fr, br. fair. jet,
"4h67 1112 281164 43/29 7127 r1h6 —: (ES. E.ditto
15h65 6|2 30/162 37129 26/28 1116 3] — JE. N.E; ditto. d.n, 499 331
161163 11 2 31l160 40/30 26/28 1117 2,9 sDitto
27161 92 32/t58 38/37 28/28 218 | 9 20olN: E. fr. br. fair. dm, sy
18159 22] 2 331256 49/32 17/28 118 |to 23N.N.E. fr. br. fair
391157 55 2 33/255 23/32 48/28 2/18 |10 7\N.E. ditto. din. 5510
20/1655 §3) 2 341153 ibs 1728 318 | 9 32{Ditto
ailrs4 38| 2 341152 4/34 2/28 3/18 | 9 42/E. N. £1. br. fair
221153 66] 2 35]151 25/34 (28 3118 |ir 23/A calm, fair. d.#. 560 32
23/152 40! 2 351150 5133 43/28 3118 rt 228. E. fr. br. fair
24152 44 2
351150 8134 ol28 4/17 _ Fee W. fr. br.
N. B. By a mean taken between many feries of diftances of the moon from the fun
the error of the time-keeper, | No..19, was afcertained by the obferved longitudes;
afterwards interpolated the. variations which the diurnal ¢orrections fhould undergo, :
order to deduce from theiice the true longitudes.. | r
où, |6.
Nov. Le
Here follow the refults produced by the lunar obfervations, or } D ore
feries, reduced to a fixed epoeh, Brees ie
Jan. de
16. 2 31
According to this feries we rettuced the trne daily longitudes, which: ferved. us for th
true longitude of our arrival at New Holland.
pb mm = © © ©
un
Sn
State of the Atmofphere; nemart
és
br. fair. d.n, 51° 24
ft, br. fair. He
E.ditto
-E. ditto. d.n, 49° 33
}
«fr. br. fair. dim. 540
LE. fr. br. fair
+ ditto. dim. 5510
. E. 1. br. fair
In, fair. d.n, 56° 32
fr. br. fair
I. W. fr. br.
- the moon from the fin
obferved Jongitudes ;
Lions fhould undergo, i
. Dems
Où, 16. Qo 4
Nove 2 0 55
18. 4 1
FY Dec, 4. 1 165
18 1 372
Jan. 4 2 83
16. 2 31
8, Which-ferved.us fort
TABLES,
SHEWING
THE COURSE OF L’ASTROLABE,
DURING THE YEARS
1785, 1786, AND 1787,
From the Time of the Ship's failing from Europe,
till its Arrival in Kamtfchatka,
1 —
4% 2
1830 alte
128 30/28 20
ROUND THE WORLD.
37 -
Weft Long. | \VeR Long.) yartation | Ther: | Harom. of Nairn,
: obferved at noon
worth |Congtude| ‘Time [or the we. e [ob | till Aug. ag, exe. {Winds 5 Stateof the Atmofpher 5
tate. [mg] Hime, rb; [Aug yee Mind Suef
Lis at noon|the mor, & 9 in afe,
f, Keeper,
D. M. D. M. D. M. D. M. D. M. D. Li P. P. L..
des 1814 10] — — — {16 9/28 3) — pat roman i fair
e LL] d N. . re
138 5515 41/85 12] — — {17 | Do.| — j frs Se, bay 7
936 4416 34/15 31] — 19 |28 2] — IN.E. moderate br. fair
034 46117 4116 1ol15 1 19 |28 3) — [Ditto
Ditto
n33 6117 4516 3915 17] — |19 |28 2) —
N.N.E. and N. little
132 819 2018 13) — 19 |28 3) — 1 wink bey
32 42] == |19 11] = [18 1810 | Do. | — IN. E. mod. wind, fair
:N.E.varyingtoS.E.
u] — _ _ _ — 21 |28 4) — À round by Brain
fair
At 9. N. E. varying to FE.
N.E, and to S. W.
19 32) — — |21 28 328 3 round by S. mode-
rate br, hazy
. IN, E. moderate br, fair
7118 44l — |17 40/20
9 ——
1 ——
n3t 25/19
830 z7|r8
i N. E. moderate
128 3018 29) — _ br, fale
ul — éd — ps — |19 {28 4] Do. IN. E. moderate br. rain
1 — — ape eas — |21 Do. | Do. IN. E. little wind, rain
; N. varying to N. E.
MS aoe tua fe ame — |22 | Do. | Do } litt'e wind, mifty
N.E. varying to E.
— on _ ~~ — |22 |28 4! Do N. E. moderate br.
fair
— |16 4522 | Do. | Do. IN. E. mod. br. fair
— — 21 28 3 Do. N, E. 1. br. fair
— |16 5822 | Do. | Do. IN. E. very little w. fair
f=. varying to E. N.
E. freth breeze, fair.
d. n. 53°
ee SA ii
N. E. mod. br. fair
18 1914 32/22 |28 4:28 4
— |14 56/22 | Do. | Do.
— |16 7/22 | Do. 28 3IN. E. little wind, fair
— {17 5h13 |28 328 2IN.N.E. little wind, fair
— 19 12/22 | Do. | Do. IN. E. moderate br. fair
EX E. varying to E.
— 18 35/23 [28 2) Do. |) yay ie
N. E. and E.N. E.
| hs pe 420 } fr. br. fair
— | S7le2 |28 2! Do. IN. E. fr. br. foggy
13 38
W. round by N, lit-
tle wind, hazy
{*s E. varying to N.
E, varying to N.
N. E. moderate br.
hazy
N. E. moderate br.
j toggy and ftormy
N.E |. br. fair
Êe E. varying to the
617 47/22 26122 24) — |r2 20/23 | Do. [28 :
116 19/22 20/22 19] — |12 31/23 | Do. | Do.
ths 22 33 = axa — 25 Do. Do. F. S. E.- À by
E. ftormy
LA PEROUSE'S VOYAGE
arometer Lf
+) ett Long. vente on | Cher Na on. OR trved
Computed Oeil "op tine | DUT | Le In che mort [Winds ÿ Sète of the atmo
th, nate t of the Mo, ~~ me ‘wa | logs “RS | ‘ in tLe Rernarkse
from gr we y à 4 urternoam,
D. |P, LIP. LÛ
§.8.E. varyingto)
Dur 2 N.W. is ,
almoft a ealm, À,
Le ty N varying to
11/22 EF. round by E,
br. lair, dim. ya
i E. varying to §,
little wind, tt,
E.S.E.varying to
N. W. round by
lithe wind, ft
5, varying to N,
g10 gyi22 | 8 2 E. round by W,
br, hazy
N.N. E. varying
10 40,25 i. N. 'W. round {
od. br, far
| N. NW. and Nel
tle wind, he any
i N. W. varying
es
|
it
LE | 2
|
|
W. $. W. and $,
W. mod, br. rain
S. W. varying to
S. W. 1. br. tair
iPS $. W. varving
2)
round by W, ‘|
tle avind, # fair
N. varying to W.
br, hazy
N. W. varying to
| S. W. round by V
§
i
2
1, br, hazy
W.S. W.and SV
mod, br. hazy
varying to W.
W. round by W
r. hazy
W. Ss. W. varyi
2 to S.W. little wu
fair
SW. varying toS
2 | E. round by S.
S
S
2:
w. hazy. dm
§. and $. SE. fl
derate br. rain
5.W. and S.S.E.«
§. S.£.and 8. E.
LE
s| À
ih | 217 br. rain
118 38 2/S, E. mod, br. hazy
8.
3518
118, E. 1. Lg
at als. E.
4
. | Winds 5 State of the Atanoty
a Remmarae.
§. CR E. var i to}
N.W. er:
almoft a ealm, 4.
N. varying to E,
E. round by E,
br. iair, d, #, gail
E. varying to §,
little wind, ft,
E.S.E, Varying to
N. W, round by
lithe wind, ft,
5, varying to N,
E. round by W,
or. hazy
1
N. 1 br, fair
à N.N.W.and N,l
| tle wind, hazy
S. W. round by
| 1, bat, hazy
£ W.S. W. and S,
| W. mod, br, rain
2! 5S. W. varying to
»W. |, br. tair
WW. $. W. varying
N. round by W, ‘|
tie avind, fair
br. hazy
N. W. varying to
S.W. round by V
1, br. hazy
W.S. W.and SV
mod. br. hazy
N. varying to W,
W.. round by W,
br. hazy
W. S.-W. varyi
to $.W, little wi
fair
§.W. varying toS
E. round by S$. uy
w. hazy. dm
|
|
fe N. W. varying
i §
|
|
1
|
il
§. and $. SE. ï
* ; derate br. rain
21S.5.W. and S.S.E.«
S. S SE. and $.E.
‘3 ; br. rain
21S. E. mod. br. hazy
§. E. 1. breeze, fa
: j d,n. 81°
S. E. ditto, dr 7
ROUND THR WORLD,
——
. IP, LAP. L,
S. E, varying to K,
28 328 24 S. E, |. br. fair.
N. varying to W.R
39
, | ase Mere Winds; State of the Atmofphere 5
tog, and inwhe Remarhs.
d.n, 6° 12! 30!
d'a. E. and F.5.E.do.
S. E. 1, br, gutts of
wind, rain. d », 2°
E. and E. S. FE, 1. br.
j fair, dion. 34°
2jf.1. br. hazy. dm, 629
E. S. B. and E. mo-
d rate br, fiir
E. and i, SE >. |. bre
rain. & 1. 12?
FE, and B.S. PF, od.
br. guits of w. rain
E.S.L and S.E,.mov,
i do, d, m ie
E.S.E, ani E.)- hi
guts of wind, rain
and E, 8. 2,500,
br. fair
E. and E, NL dy
br. fair, 4, 1, 23°
a
14
;
jr E.andE, N.E, mod.
f
(a
EX E. varying to E.
2
2
3
415 ©
si
di
3 br. fair
N.F. varying to N,
mod, br, fair
N. varying to N. W.
moderaie br. hazy.
d, n, 264°
N. and N. N. W. 1.
br. fair
ee varying to N. W
2
1
2
and to the S. round
. 1. br. bay.
rl Ne aie
5S. varying to FS Fe
@ mod. br, rain
S.E. ginal
S.S. E. S, mod.
by. fale
S. varying to 3. S.E.
1. br, fair
d
+ .Æ, varying to E. S.
}
eg
2)
2|
|
|
|
3
E. mitt, br. fair
E. and E.N.E. mod.
92 br. hazy
|
1}
. W. 'N. W. round
by È M br. ft.
WN sand Ni
o! $ br. Ne
Weft Long.| weft mes € Variation mite
; ie. Longitude
Wett
LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE
e P. L.IP. L
28 2128
28
28
28
28
28
28
28
28
28 2/28
Barometer of
AS obferved uth
Sou
Winds 5 State of the at jee, | Latitude.
Remarks te
ing, and jin iss
S. varying to L.
E. little wind, fai
N. varying to E, ç
N. ji Ag fog
28 2/28
N. N. ee varying
S. $. E. round by § ,
S. E. “varying to \
~
SE. and S. |. br. rai
an 5 i VAE
A sn <. E. in
S. E. vary ng Wk
a ma. br. rain
2 mel br. rain
LE. and E. NE
es E. varying 1
ary lit wind, rain
mode ate br. ft. d. #
N. varying to N.N
W. little wind, À
N. 'N. F. varying ta
S.W. round by E.:
- calm, fair. dr. 408
S. me to S. SW
Lal
varying to S. W.
S. varying to N. E.
N.E. and E. N. E
Ip, M|D. M
37146
37,+5
3944
0144
23144
4343
27143
qil4t
39/40
56139
44 18142
1744 44142
18144 55/43
Von, II,
w
to
- ROUND THE WORLD.
Barometer of
Nairne, obferved
Wei Long. | Weft Long.
Variation
Computed| by the jby thepift.
rats Longitude} Time lot the Mo. gene
| batituve: | Wet, | Keeper, | fromthe | En ing, and 3 inthe
Nov 13. sun. : afternoon,
sce facet
M.\D. MD. M|D. M. D.|P. LyP. L
ingtos.
ind haz
ing to Ë.
le wind, fai
ing to E, <
le wind, tog
n. 363° '
11146 5146 6 —
39145 3545 43] — 28 2/28
nd E.S,E, 7 11/28
n
ing to N. 28 2128 3!
air
- varying 28 3/28 3
- round |
ir und by § 28 3/28
rarying to SE
vind, a 28 «1/28 1
IS. 1. br. raid
if ying | | 7 927 11
Dr. ft.
S. E. mode 28 1/28 #1
hazy |
‘ying toE, 28 o]27 11
e pas har
r. haz 2
ing tONN i ds
1. br. rain \
ing to EN 74 us 17133 43/54 36) — |12 |28 o:8 o
1, “ rain à 845 936 16133 24135 12] 7 4il1r |27 1027 9
F «SE. 9 44 17136 20/33 11/34 1817 4011 |27 11/27 11
ing to E, 1044 60/37 11) — | — | — |13 [27 3727 6
lo.
‘i ENS jus s0l37 39134 38) — | — ir [27 77:
>. varying tq
round by E
. wind. rain FRE
E. |. br. fait
ing to N. Eg 9,27 9} 3
te br. ft. din
3 30" 8
ing to N.N HF
tle wind, ft
o
+ varying to
ound by E.;
ur. d mack
gtoS.S W,
r. fair
ig to S. W,
air
ig to N.E.
. hazy
id E.N.E,
'» hazy
16144
17144
18/44 55/43
Vor. II, f
‘| atgin the morn. | Winds; State of ihe Atmofphere §
em:
2128 is
DT
{ wind, hazy
N.E ge pa to S.
S. Vus by N.
1. br. togg
0 SE. tf ing to
NN. E. yng by
E. 1. by. foggy
que E. ad E.N. E.
little wind, hazy
“i ond E. 1. br. re
olE. var. toS. fr. br. rain
S. S. W. varying to |
W. mod. br. hazy
§ W. varying toW.N.
W..1. br. fair
W.N.W. 1. br. hazy.
ad. 2. 504°
N.W. ise W.N.W.
l, br. foggy
N.W. var. oro W. S.
W. guits of wind, r.
S. W. and S. S. W.
| mod. br, hazy
Ww. S. Ww. and W.
mod. br. hazy
N. W. var. to S.W.
pa by W. mod.
br. rather fogey
Se W. and à. Se
W. mod. br. hazy
“W.and W.mod.brir.
W.and W. N.W, do.
W. NW. and N.
W. Libr. foggy
N. N. W. varying
to S. round by W
guits of wind and r.
S. S. W. varying to
N. round by W. fr.
br. rain
N. W.and N. fr. bre
S. W. 1. br. gufts of
8: y
is wind, rain
W. S. W. and W.
N. W. little wind,
fair weather
N. W. xarying to S.
Ww. ou by W.
l. br. toggy
W. varying toN. E.
round by §. little
N, varying to S, W.
round by W. mods
br. rain
Barometer
T ,
inter,
Wéft Long.| Weft Long.
Corhputed v the bythe Ditt.| V
Time ofthe Mo.
Keeper, | from the a. ed at
No, 18, sun. ‘
South |,
Latitude. Pause
D. M.ID. M.\D. MJD. M.\D. M: D. |P. LP.
3545 40/42
43/46
53/47 27 9/27
50/48 10/27
25438 27 11/27
26148 27 827
27149 28 0/28
32/49 27 10/27
20159
115%
18 20/14 ‘|27
Nairne, obferved
rerv.| atg inthe morn. | Winds ; State of the Atm
LA pd ing, and 3 in the Remarks, phere
afternoon,
10127 10
LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE
of
L.
8: E. round b
br. hazy hal
S. E. varying to W.
N.W. round byW
ae wind, do,
-W, varying to W
N.W, TOUR byW
I. br. foggy
| N.W. varying to W
9
10 S.W. round by W
1. br. rather fé
S.W. and W.s.W
gufts of wind, fair
§ W. S. W. and S.W
gults of wind, rain
S. W. and S,S. W
j ftr. br. hazy
gS. W. and N. w
round by W.1.br, h
j E.N.E. var. toS. E,
round by S. 1. br.r,
9
1
10
S. S. W. and N.W,
round by W. little
wind, fair
N.N. W. varying to
S. S. W. round by
W. gutts of w, rain
S. varying to N. W,
} round by W. mod,
br. hazy
N. W. varying to S,
S. W. round by W,
mod. br. guits of
wind, rain
gufts of wind, rain
S. S.W. varying toS,
E. and to N. round
, by W. little w. fair
N. varying to W. S.
} W. round by W,
mod, br. hazy
W. varying to $. E,
j round by N. 1. br.
N.N. E. varying to
} S. E. round by W,
_ little W. ft.
E. N. E.. varying to
W. S. W. round by
W. irregular guts
of wind, rain
CS. W. varying to N.
4 N.W. round by W.
tr. br, hazy
south
et |
MG Latitude.
S. Ww. varying to E s
5
's. S.W. and S. fr, br. ba
Computed
Longitude
Wet,
D. M.\D. M
45 32 62 51
946 47164
dy 47164 2
n48 14164 40
1247 5865 24
1346 5066 3
1447 52167 5%
1548 57168 58
1649 45169
17150 4/69 5
18149 58179 4.
19/50 1072 3:
20/50 58/72 5
2151 34/73 1
22152 22/72 §
23153 41168 3
24154 . 33/67 1
25156 17168
26\s7 8168 :
27157 57169 :
28157 $2170 4
18173
29158
if
sie Atmotpher
arying to FAR
ound by $.]
y
tying to W
round byw
ind, do,
arying to W.
Nite byW
bggy
Ar'ying to W
round by W
ather fogey
ae S.W
wind, fair
-and S.W
wind, rain
nd S.S, W
hazy
and N. W
y W.IL.br.h
var. toS.E,
y S.lbr.r.
and N.W
y W. little
air
r. varying te
. round by
ts of w, rain
gtoN.W,
y W. mod,
À
arying to S,
und by W,
r. gults of
in
ind S. fr, br, &
wind, rain
arying toS,
oN. round
ittle w. fair
g to W. S.
nd by W.
_ hazy
ng to §. E.
N. 1. br.
varying to
und by W,
varying to
7, rouhd by
gular guits
rain
ying to N,
and by W. {
zy |
28157
th Computed
Longitude
‘| Weft.
55167
39163
58 70
55179
32169
10167
8167
35167
32167
43/79
13179
ve
ifs
Keeper,
No. 18.
of the Mo.
from the
Sun,
32162 51159 26/60
56
29/68 34123
69 17/22
49169 32/22
43168 40
5866 59
47) —
stl =
45) —
19) —
13/19
29
21
21
22
23
Variation
of the
Needle
Eañt,
dl
18112
55|12
47113
11
if
Ther.
inter.
obferv-
ed at
noon. |
Mo. Mp. mb. Mb. m D. le. LAP. L.
ROUND THE WORLD,
Wet Lon
ey by thebit.
Rarometer of
Naïrne, obferved
at y in the morn.
Ing, aud 3 in the
atterncon,
8/27
5127
5127
7,27
AN
2128
9/27 10
8127
11/28
2128
Winds; State of the Atmofphere;
Remarks. id
S. W. varying to
mod. br. guits of
9
ind, hazy
Ww.
pes s.
Ww
W.S. W. and W.N.
4 W'.r.od. br. cl.
CERN WwW. en S.W.
W. LR 4 S. W. lit.
j tle wind, fair
W. S.W. and §. lit-
j tle wind, fair
S.W. mod. br. gufts
j of wind, cl.
W.S.W. and N.W.
mod. br. rain
W. varying to N. me
E. round by N. and
to W. S. W. round
by LA I. br. fair
|
|
|
co
9
2
8
soured by W, little
wind, fair
W.N.W. varying to
S. S. E. round by S.
1. br. cl, ï
S. S. E. varying to
WwW. eereae L
br, fair
x varying to N. E.
Le)
3
round by E. little
wind, cl.
a E. and E. N.E.Ïl,
br. fair, d. #. 644°
N.N.W.andS.S. E.
2144 | round by E.lit.w.do.
S. E. varying to W.
2128 i N. W. round by E.
and N. cl.
g N. W. varying to S.
372$ 7 5 W. mod. by. hazy
N,W. and N. N.W.
1127 IC) > mod.br. cl. d 2.684°
t N. N. W. and SW.
817 8 { round by W. 1. br.
cl. rain
S. W. and W. mod.
127 512 br. hazy
W. S. W. and W.
427 317 guts of wind, rain
627 9/2 var. to S. E. round
by S. 1. br. cl.
S.S.E.and W.S.W.
round by S, mod,
br, rain
À
À and W. N. W.
EE SERRE BEEN ce
A4 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE
& bi
Computed
South
2 Latitude "het ha
nee
Barometer of
Nairne, obfeived
atg in the morn. | Winds; .. pel pls Atmofphere
Weft Long.| Welt Lon
by the by theDi
Time | of the Mo.
rlation aver
ir South [Computed
Feb. | Latitude, | bons we
Keeper, | from ts ings aud 9 inthe
No, 18, un afternoon,
orn ee
LAP. L, m |p. mid. mM.
: W, and W, 5. w 8
ay GPs 7 gults of wind, hary Hop. Ap Morn?
7 827 6 W.S W.and W, N
W. little wind,rai ul39 581 49
W.and W,S,W.]
} br. rather fog
iii and W. Nw. 2137 51/80 41
af |
little wind, cl. vain, 13136
dm. 69° 37! 40! 42179 46
1
27 11/26 7|
At noon.[At 7 P.M 1] w. . W, and N,
3158 52178 53176 33] — — |9 N. W. moderate br!
26 10/26 ‘Ih
rain
At halt {At Midn
pati a.
N. varying to W, $.
W. fi. br. guits of
wind, rain
W.S.W. and N.W,
round by W. guis
4153 48/79 20/76 27) — 27 x1| 9 |27 1/27
5159 38/80 28177 20) — — | 8 |27 3/27
Ws wind pe =
660 37/82 W790 a] — — 8 |27 0/27 1 MS Mi; SW, us ae
, S W. and S.S. W, A
ae of win a rain 4 ae
W..4 calm. ‘Alter.
sy Lo E, and
E.S.E. $
re i Baines §
S.W. guts of wind,
7159 20/83 43/80 53) — — | 8 |27 327 1
8158 4085 2/8: 32) — — | 7 |27 1127 3
0157 15/88 12/84 32) — — | 7 (27 427 4
él, d,n, 70°11 1 - 7
S.S. E. varying to 8. | — =
W. round by Suivre.
cular gufts ct wind, 9
overc:: iy rain yoy oo as
S.S. W. and W.§
W. mod. br. cl.
. W. varying to N,
W. round by W.1.
br. fogyy
S. W. and W.S.W,
ie guits of w. |
rather tose: y
W.S.W. and W.N. 15
} mod br ns 3
89 4486 20| — —
C9
w
~
Le
w
N
9
12153 889 46186 221] — — 6
Le)
tw
N
ON
N
N
1
à
À
W. 1 br. rain ?
W.N.W. and W.S It
W. guits of wind, |
rain
'W. and § fr br, ra, re |
eat S. W. nd WN. 1656 3875 §
»
Ex
ce
N
uw
We)
c9
+
us
~~
~~
Le)
te
N
~
lol
w
co
W. round by W. |
WEEE Hep ne mr js koe bi *\) moderate br. rather 1955 29,77
‘ W. Ed S. W. 1. br. L
3182 41| — — |13 |28 1/28 o j forgy. dn. 62° :
3
S. S. W. and W.N.
W. le br. milk
2
ROUND THE WORLD. A5
Computed We pee pair À i A moe PE
| N k Le iit. nter, 18 3
the Atmofphere wi | South Longitude| ‘Time lof the Mo.| ees, H tg in the morn- Winds; State of 4 Atmofphere 5
larks, nets] Latitudes | 7 We Keeper, | from the iy rd ing, and 4 in the Remarks,
No, 18. Sun. A aiternoon,
etre =e
P. LJP. L.
W. 3. wil ‘ Le | §S.S.W. and W.N,
vind LT 39/80 3178 29h15 j28 128 3 5 W. moderate br. cl.
«and W.N S. W. varying to S.
le wind ra 49178 17/77 39145 PP nr B. round by 8. |.
W,S.W.] r. hazy
er fo, S. §. E. varying toS.
W. whee? 177. 38/76 28a L'or. ait
nd, cl, rain S. and S, S. W. mo-
° 3 ae 46176 31175 A } derate br. fair
cS. S. W. varying to
WW. and N 8 2 } S.5. E. round by S.
moderate br 1. br. cl.
| — 194$: varyingtos. W.
ÿ little wind, fair
ne to W, S 1 — S.W. and S. I. br. fair
br. guits ss j sa S.S.W.a calm,
in oggy
.and N.W, 128 :|S.andS.W.acalm, fair
yW. cui le S. and §. S. W. mo-
: ea ds : ÿ derate br. fair
W.S.W, — 28 328 3 Ro a calm, fair
rain | 3| — |Ditto
dS. S. W, S. S. W. and S. W.
wind, rain — (23 2 pire ay fair. d.
alm. After. n. 5
oN. 2. andy S.S.W. and W. mo-
cl. ; k } derate br. fair
rarying to §, -— |S.W. little wind, foRey
its of wind, $ S. S. Ww. and S.W. e
esate 7 2. br. fair
arying to $ 8 - Ditto
dl by Suivre. $ S.W. and W.S.W.
fs ot wind, ; 7 br. foggy
rain -
and W.S. | S. S. W. and W. S.
|. br, cl, "9 W. fair ;
rying toN. @ S. one a S.W. little
ad by W.1, : wind, cl.
y : Ditto ‘
1 W,S.W, “age À N. and N. N.E. lit-
tle wind, foggy
N. and N. N. E. lit-
‘gults of w. |
woy
REY
and W.N. | tle wind, hazy
, rain SN. and N. W. mo-
and W.S. - ES és } derate br, rain
s of wind, J = # 1 and §. S. E. little
| = = wind, forgy
T fr bre ra, | al gS. W. and S. S. E.
and W.N. | @_acalm, cl
nd by W. W.S W. varying to
» br, rather | 3 S. S. E. |. br. cl.
| | S. W. and S. §. W.
. W. I. br 412 fr. br. hazy
Ln, 624° fs. varying to §.S.E.
and W.N 5? fir. br. cl.
r, milk 4\S. and S..E, fr. br. cl.
46 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE
Weft Long. weft Long, Ther. | Barometer of | mil. Compute
Mah south [Computed] by the [by thenit. Wastation inter, | Nairne, obferved Windes st te titude, | Hongitud
‘apt Latitude, Longitude! ‘Time ofthe Mol Needle pater. at g in the morn- 3 State af the Atmofphe MERE) | L ‘| Wet.
9786. Weft. | Keeper, | fromthe | pat, dat | ing, and 3 in the nar ke, hag
No. 18, | Sun. Seon, afternoon,
D. MD. MD. M. D, M. M.D. M. DE P. LAP. L. We gab Naa
S\ var 10 Z11|112
86 3 S+ varyiug to E, ç mn!
Ma3o 31 85 45! 85 32/10 49117 3 j mod, br, hazy
24/29 48] 87 56! 87 28| 87 819 3318 2|Ditto, rather foggy | 8 23l112
; E. S, E. and
#59" t2] 89 89 1188 54) 9 2218 3 j moderate br, i : 411113
26/28 35) 91 90 37| 90 24] 7 5518 2 4|Ditto
27127 53| 94 92 52} — |7 56:18 51S. sn 1. br. fai 29/113
a and E.S. E.fr.b
2827 33) 96 95 13 52/19 4 j guits of wind, tain 20|114
29/27 171 98 47197 5| — 54119 4|Ditto, cl. #3 2oltrs
30/27 9]100 37| 99 _— 14/19 Ditto: d. nm. 52° 56/15 pla 611$
31/26 59l102 44l1or 11/19 4 it a mt E. asi x 11116
A. 1327 6104 49/103 57/20 4lE. S, E. mod. ba. North.
i S. E. and EN 19] 0 2/116
414 E. irregular guts o
wind, Re . mS 7/7
4| SE: varying toN, Eagmht| 2 55118
d mod. br. cl. 4 lis
N.E. and N.N.
IINTIT 14/109 2 24 a by N. 1. brer 5 ‘10/1839
.and N.W
ittle wind, cl. 4 5 46|119
lit
' N.
311 54109 . 1 j sep a WEN
W. 6
227 7/107 15105 28/20
71109 23/107
4l117 451109 - 2 arts
i
N. W. varying tq F9
E.S.E. round by §
571112 36) = ? little wind, rain, d 7 4[120
n. 529 7/ 30! l
°S. E. varying to N 718 a7lrzr
8113 40:17 1 E. round by E. |
br. cl, rain 89 25/12:
N. E. varying to § |
10!114 25/112,66| = 128 Ms round by E, lit go 4.4li22
1 eine, i 5. E INT 61124
— |} moderate br. fair 110 +. ae
S.S. E. and §, E. s a de id
“ie 3 j little wind, fair i cages aa
5
|
eM 54 4iS. and §. E. 1. br, cl. ulr8 ° 9/128
ses and §. 8. E. |.
. Isltg r4alt3o
48111 | Er - fair. dem 54° 16119 4.9131
37l111
1720 11133
@ br, fair neo. els
3
31112 | 3\S. E. and E, cl. eels Mae
1 E,
and E.N.E. guts x ie ie as
M2120 | 5/142
Sr “and &. 8. E.L
401113 of wind, cl.
N.E. and E. N.E.
mod. br, hazy M0 41144
RARE? and'AN E, uho 451146
NE. and E. moi MR" 87/448
rate br. hazy ho solrso
E.N.E.andE.S.E,
moderate br, cl,
gltr2
22/113
271113 19) —
34113 31/113 9 728 ol152
of the At
einarks, her
ing to E.$.8
its wa
her fog
FE, Hi À 9
rate br. cl,
E. 1. br. fai
E.S.E. fr, bi
of wind, rain
n, 52° 66/1
ind S. SE. ‘
ir. din 53°
mod. br, cl.
E. and E.N
egular gufts où
hazy
ying toN.E
br. cl.
and N.N.
yy N.1. brer
and N.W
wind, cl,
W, and W.N
te br. cl,
W. varying td
E. Pn bys
ind, rain. d
7! 30!
arying to N
und by E, |
. rain
ate br. fair
wind, fair
B. 1. br, el.
nd E. mode.
. hazy
.andE. SE,
ate br. cl,
ROUND THE WORLD.
Barometer of x
. arate te nm Winds state df the Atmofphere 5
1 $e
21,122 12,122
. and S,E,
nd §. 8. E. 1,
r dy mh 54°
nd S. SE,
ea à 7
P. I. IP. L.
8 vr N. Evand €. Ss. BR
38 3 mod. br. cl.
E, and E, S.Æ. mo.
2/28 if derate br. fair '
E.S. E, and S. E.
238 : j br. fair
| S. E. Be al SE. 1.
2123 2} br. fair
| CE. SE. andS. E.do.
3,28 FE den. 35° 52! as"
3128 1/Ditro. 4.7, 334°
2128 215. E. and ES, I. br, cl.
2128 2|Ditto
E.S.E.and §.S.E.do.
: j d.n, 29° 18" gis!
I Ditto, fair
F S. E. and S. S.E. 1.
4 br. cL
1 Ditto, haz
ies S. E. and S.E. lit.
tle wind, cl.
; S. S. E. and E. 6. E.
little wind, fair
k E. varying to N,
round by E. a calm,
U hazy
1
E. sii E.N.E. guits
j of wind, cl,
N.E. varying to S.E.
} ce EL br. cl,
SE. and N. E, little
157 wind, cl.
| N. E. and NN. E.
"a I. bi, cl.
21 Ditto
2 Bitto
2' Ditto, hazy
2|Ditto, mod. br,
| EN. E. and E.N.E
# à br, cl,
Di
lDitt
3 NE. andE, 1 br. hazy
JE: and E.'N. E. ditto
3\Ditto, cl.
2lE.and£. N.E. I. be. cl,
aWDitto :
38.1. br. fair
Ditto, rather clondy.
1} d.m. 10° 11 ti5"
4 Ditto. dim. 54°
3|Ditto, hazy
‘E. and E. N.-E. mo-
3 } derate ‘br. cl,
3{Ditto, rain
LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE
7 Welt tone.| el Lone. Barometer of .
ar orth |Computed| by thee by thebitt. Variation | jy in aid Nairne, obferved Winds : State nf
June, | Latitude, [Longitude Time |ofthe wo) Needle | oF ob. | at g in the morn- 5 ope the Atmofither
June *| welt, | Keeper, | fromthe | “gag, | ferved ing, and 4 in the SA
786. Ron | daca * lat noon| : atter. con.
D. M.\D. M\D. M.D. MID. M! D.
M28/20 49/153 181157 44 9 2521 and E. SE. |, br. cl
E.N.E. and E, SE
29/20 331154 271158 43
E. S. E. and E, N, E
little wind, fair
E.N. “a and hy E
3}
551159
29,160 17/161 6
2160 301161 28; 5
48)160 11160 ie
is
|
Ife
11,160 29/161
47160 51160
. varying to 5
171159 431160 W.. | br. cl. rain
1 13160 6
58158 521159 13
N. varying to S.S.F
47158 und b
wind, foggy
S. varying to S. y
8 and to E. N.
15 j) round by E. |, i
foggy
.N. E. andS. F
varying to S$. W
ote à “round by S. littl
wind, forsy
g S. and S. S. W.
2 ey La RE. br. foggy
181155 58 3128 2|Ditto
8 S.W. and W.S.W
13/35 47 HA + I. br. rain
W.and N. W. gut
of wind, rain
W.N.W. and W.S
if W. mod. br. r. ch
W. and S. W. mod
fbr r. hazy
Oe N. W. and Ws
341149 I — — 10/27 a W. |. br. cl.
251153 23 1/28
431151 36 1128
39150 4 10/27 10
S. W. and W.S.W
311147 501147 50/23 32 9127 little wind, hazy
}
| bleed
round by W, litil
Von. II,
fthe Atmfiker
Marge
5. E. 1, br, ci
«and E, SE
ufts of win
mod, br, fai
and E. N,E
ind, fair
5. and N.E
>. cl,
>. and E. mo
br. guits o
rain
NE. 1. br, cl
ind E. NE
cl.
2. varying t(
round by E
air
. varying t
W. round b
1s br. cl.
varying to Sf
br. cl. rain
and S,S,E
by S. mod
py :
. varying t
round by W
ain
ing to S.S.F
foggy
ng to S. W
lo E. N. I
by E. 1, br
. ands. EF
g to s. W
S. littl
nd W.S.W
ain
N.W. gui
d, rain
. and W.S
od. br. r. ch
LS. W. mod
Vv
Vand W.$
br. cl.
ind W.S.W
Wind, hazy
by W. litt
North Com
Long,
Latitude. We
Weft Long | Weft Long.
ted by the by thepift.
i Of the Mo, Needle |obferv-
tude me
ft. Keeper,
No. 14.
20/147
43/145
461143
23l141
29|t41
42|141
| 19/142
20/142
20/141
541141
71140
38/140
431139 581139 591139 55
41147 5
381145 45
S5|144 11
571143 36
22/142 39
81142 43
191142 44
ROUND THE WORLD.
from the
Sun,
361142 46|
59
56|141 26
16|140 16
Variation
of the
Ther.
injer.
ed at
noon.
Rurometer of
Nairne, odferved
at in the morn-
ing, and 9 in the
afternoon,
a
At 9.| At 3.
P. L.IP, L.
27 11/27 11
2128
2128
i1/27
Winds; state of the Atmofphere ;
Remarks,
SS
W. Varying to S. S.
E. round by S. 1, br.
rather fogg
S.S.E. oath, S.E.
mod. br. cl.
1, br. rain
S. anid S.W. varying.
to S. E. round by S.
foggy
S. E. varying to W.
N.W. round by 6.
little wind, foggy.
W.N.W. varying to
E. N. E. round by
N. little wind, cl.
N. did E. N.E. 1,
br. rain
E. varying to S. W.
round by S. little
wind, cl. rain
S. and S:S. W. little
wind, rain
S. varying to W. S.
W.andtoW.N.W.
‘ little wind, fog
149 W.S.W.and S.W.
little wind, cl.
W. and W. N. W..
little wind, fair
W.N.W.and N.W.
1. br. fair
W. N. W. and W.
mod. br. cl.
E. andE.N.E-. little
wind, foggy
N, E. and N. little
} wind fair
a E: and E. N. E.
a calm, fogg
: |S. W. little wind, cl.
E. N. E. varying to
S. round by E. a
calm, foggy
N. E. and E. little
wind, fog
N.E. and E. N. E.
j little wind toggy
N. E. virying to S.
W. round by E. I.
br. rather foggy
N. E. varying to S.
W. round by E. le
br. cl.
LA ÉÉROUSE’S VOYAGE
Rarometer of
Variation | Ther +
North | Computed “y the” by. bh. of the | inter. | Malena, obferved | winds; state of the At
Latitude, ime | of the Mo, fod Kemerks, nofphere ;
' Lee 1 si site
» M.D. M] D. RP. LAP. L.
At the
Meridian. [gx
W. varying to N.E,
round by N. little
-U wind, hazy
W. mod, br. cl,
S.W. varyin
N.W. ound
to W,
by W.
1. br.
5 ie ENE. mod,
br. ch. rain
E.N.E. and E.S.E. do,
N. E. varying to S.
{ E. round ee E. |,
br. rather foggy
W. Nw W. and W.
little wind, cl. rain
We and Ww. N. W,
5 mod, br.: fair
» W.N.W. varying to
25 4711 N. E. round by N.
little wind, cl,
N.W. and S.W. lit.
tle wind, hazy
W.S.W. and W.
mod. bn. fair
E. S. E. and §. E.
mod. br. cl. rain
EB. and. E. S. E, very
little wind, rain
jx E. and E. |. br.
rain, cl.
Ditto
W.N. W. I. br.
W.N.W. very little
wind, fair
W.N. W... br. fair
N. W. and S. S. W.
very little wd. fair
eA very littie wind,
hazy
i: varying to S. S.
19
10
191139 54
591139 52
491239 9
W. round by S. very
little wind, fair
E. very little wi. foggy
|W. N.W. very little
wind, fair
N. W. ditto
We fair, 1. br.
W. fr. br. hazy
W.N.W. fr. br. foggy
N.N.W.1. br. foggy
Ditto
S. very. little wind, do.
S. and E. S. E. very
foggy
fi. 1. br, hazy
Ditto
171138 26
Ï
|
i
|
PITTI
Prt lddl
PrTTItl
PIilddd
|
I
|
491135 41/156 19
50/1435 52,136 8
211136 321136 54
1 |
[1
F1
saut
ca
A17153
48152
19152
20/51
21152
22152
23,51
24151
25149
26149
North
Latitude, | “#8!
D. M.D.
Compu
we
151136
341134
71134
401133
21132
161131
481132
21133
561131
22/130
1|131
Atmofphere ;
toN.E,
N. little
cl
ne to W,
nd by W,
LE. mod.
SE, do,
ing to S,
by E, |,
foggy
and W.
» Cl. rain
air
arying to
nd by N.
ch
SW. lit.
az
ad W.
air
nd $S. E.
1, rain
. E. very
9 rain
E. |. br.
br.
very little
br. fair
S. S, W.
wide fair
tie wind,
to S. S.
oy S.very
fair
vd. foggy
very little
y
Wy fogs
r. foggy
ind, do.
E, very
; North
sept. | Latitude,
ROUND THE WORLD. Bi
341134 291136 46
71134 0134 4
401133 351133 41
21132 501833 7
16,131 66! —
48/132 31/131 53
21132 5/131 40
§6/13% ol130 25
221130 49|129 58
1,131 10] —
35,130 8/128 58
36129 23/127 51
31,129 211127 54
11129 3651127 58
371128 231127 11127
55
56127 551126 38)
421128 101126 58
11128 9li27 2
221128 7) —
481128 22/127 23
511128 241127 26|
591127 55). —
11,124 41) —
11127 8/126 31
125 29/125 2
Den |
1116 5514
127 551126 36126 59116 35114
16 20/15
16 agit
15 26114
— 14
ther.
t inter,
lobierv | 419
.
Harometer uf
sf pad Winds s State of the Atmofphere ;
tng, and À 1 the Remarks.
À after
' eS
P. LJP. L.|
_ | §N.E. very little wind,
€ hazy
— |N. W. 1. br. fair
N.W. and S. W. tit-
tle wind, hazy
— |N.W.and W. 1. br. fair
Fhe ov and S. S. W. fr.
' br. fair
— |S.and S.N. fr. br. hazy
— |S.E. tr, br. fair
— |W.N. W, |. br. foggy
— |W. N. W. I, br. fair
i” S. E. very little
wind foggy
N. varying to E. S,
. and round ever
28 1 point of the compals
i] in whirlwinds, little
wind, ft.
W. varying to N. E.
round by N. 1. br.
rosy
N.E. varying to W.
228 2) { N. W. round by N.
1. br. cl.
W.N.W. varying to
S.S. E. round by S.
1. br. foggy
§. andS.W.a calm, cl.
W. S. W. varying
to N. W. irregular
guits of wind
S. W. varying to S.
428 44 E. round by S. a
calm, fair
| |( S. S. W. varying to
428 iH N. round by W.
| mod, br. fair
328 3/N.andN.E.1. br. cl.
28 À ae and N.N.W. mo-
3; 2 derate br. foggy
328 3|Ditto
| 'CN.N.E. varying to
2,28 1} N.W. round by N.
| 1. br. fair
28 N.andN.N.E. light
oF breeze, cl.
| N. N. W. and W.
128
11% little wind, foggy
W. and N.W. 1, br.
ARE } fogey
| | ¢N.W.and N. fine br.
22 " rather foggy
À
52
sept,
and
of,
2786,
§. 23/36 39/124 53124 7] m= 08
14136 551124 46,123 671124 gaits
LA nait VOYAGE
ort
meth, |
Le gl v À JA
Nairne, obferv
at gin ty € morn. winds ; ns | pa À. , Mmefphere
iy, and 2 inthe
oon. alt. noon,
=| ————— = Poe de ref A SAR ec
D. M.|D. M.\M. D.\D. M.D. M. D. P. LAL. P,
461124 18124 ©
41124 521124 13
461125 421125 12
141127 71126 43
461128 33/128 37,128 4911
311132 37) — ae — (16
431134 71133 28,134 26) — [16
121135 331134 331 — |9 42/17
561136 6/135 20) — | 9 33118
321136 53/136 11] — | 9 118
47|14
39114
43117
21130 391130 15) — — (16
N.N.W. and N.W,
l, br. foggy
N. W. varying to N,
28 i i N.E,. round by N
18 1128 ©
1, br, hazy
W. and W. S. W,
28 128 o|4 little wind, rather
foggy.
sé | = LE S. W. and W,
I, br. fair,
— | § S. varying toE.§. E,
Pigually w. fair,
S. am! varying to §,
W. round by §,
moderate br. fair,
» W. and W.S. W,
moderate br. cl.rain,
N.N.E. se fi to
the W.N.W round
Ph Aas 1, br. fair,
W.and S. E. round
by S. mod. br. fair,
. W. varying toW.
S. W. round by W,
1. br. fair.
little wind, fair.
W. varying to E. S,
E. round by S. little
ind, cl,
S. W. varying to W,
N.W. round by W.
aH » wind, hazy
te varying to
N. W.
wind, cl.
W.N.W.and NN.
W. do.
N.W. and W.N.W.
moderate br. hazy.
15 N. W. and N. 1,
br. foggy.
§ N..and N. N. E. mo-
3 d derate br. rather cl.
ia and N.N. W. |.
br. hazy.
N. ard N. E.
3 j wind, hazy.
3|N. N. E. 1. br. cl.
r E. varying to W.
3
S. E. round by §,
w
little
3
}
i
RE ngt
j vying to
ea
t
HY
À w
3
little
round by N. little
wind, hazy.
fw S. W. varying to
3:4 N.N. E. round by
iL Nv br. dl.
North
Latitudes
Computed
Long! tude
Welt.
D, M\D. M
, 627 361137 5%
7 571138 58
118
MEL
1018
ul7 591145
nh7 591145 4
by 541146
61140 13
71141 38
31143 29
14:7 491147 1
17 581148 5
16:8 31149 2
1727 531149 2
187 481149 3
1928: 5|150
20h27 421150 4
u1l27 471151
2228 9|152
2328 5152
2427 25154
2527 321154
26:27 271155
2727 31156
2826 59158
2927 131159
ae my 5!
ther,
[we Long,
he inter,
“ime
h
rhe Mmatpher;
and N.W,
BY
ry ing to N,
be by N,
ny
. S, W.
nd, rather
8 4719
4 and W, — 19
toE, SE, 2
. fair, , 59 dé
ing to §, 8 45120
nd by S, 8 ase
br. fair
br.cl.rain,
varying to 16/28 3l149 231/148 36 9 3221
|. W round 4
br. fair,
S. E. round 7 s3lr49 281148 35 9 31522
1. br, fair,
ing toW, ;
ind by W, 18127 48149 371148 391 — | 9 3122
varying to
und by $, 1928: sliso 9/849 — 21
d, fair,
4 to E, 6, ,
by S. little 20/27 42/150 49 wg [a6
ing to W,
ind by W, 21/27 47lis2 181149 55 > 19 3820
|, hazy
varying t
W hth 2228 ‘olr52 711150 26 oe" [0%
2328 = sing2 34/150 56 ve’ is
and N,N.
2427 261154 271152 47 9 5329
W.N.W. :
on. hazy.
and N. |, 2527 32154 47/153 32 1e: ded lated
N.E.mo. §
rather cl, 26/27 271055 38/854 221155 15/10 40:20
NN. W. 1.
I 27/27 31156 331355 22 191
E. little
ae 2926 solrs8 361157 8 19 30/23
Cl.
ig to W,
N. little 2927 13159 10,157 43 10::#2139
rying to
ound hy
ae ype 81157 281158 44l1r 4/21
ROUND THE WORLD.
Marometer of
53
Nolene, obferved
he + | Winds 5 State of the A
lobfery.| at gin the morn 3 sof the Atmeatyheny 4
ing, and 9 in the
ie EN E and E. ltd
. . . a # itt e
a8 438 4 wind, cl,
18 528 nr «LS à pa
:. and E. N. E. litt
28 48 41) wind, cl
28 4/28 4 (Pageranbey br. fair.
. var, to$, W.round
28 528 42 by 8: little w fair
W.N.Wvar.toS.E.
28 4928 419 sound by N.acalm.
28 5128 4|S.E.andE.§. E.1.br.
28 4128 3/Do. cl.
28 3/28 3 pt hae S. S. E. 1.
S.E. var. to S.S, W.
28 4/28 3,4 round byS. a calm,
l hazy,d.m.50° 18/45"
W.S. W. varying to
28 4128 4 } N. E. round by N.
a calm, cl.
N. W. varying to S.
28 5128 3 } E. round by W.
little wind, cl.
S. E. var. to §. W.
28 3/28 2/4 round byS.1. br. ci.
d. n. 47° 37! 30"
S. W. varying to N.
28 al28 2/4 E. round by N. lit-
tle wind, ft.
cs. S. E. varying to
28 428 112 W.S.W. round by
l S. little wind, rain.
28 8 S. W. and S. S. W.
pe nee Oe j little wind, rain.
28 3:28 3/W. varying to N. E.
| N.E, varying to W.
28 328 2 1 N. W. round by N.
1, br. cl, rain.
N.and N.N.E. very
28 928 2 } little wind, tair. d.
nN. 474%
g N. N. W.and N. I.
28 328 3 j br. fair.
N.E.andS.S.E.round
a 24 4 } by E. mod. br. rain. *
E. S. E.and S.S. E.
28 2/28 114 fr. br. cl. irregular
guits of wind.
S. S. E. varying to
28 1/28 su S. S. W. round by
S. little wind, ft.
S.S.W .and W.S.W,
28 9/28 2
——\—
P. LP. L,
N. and E. N. E. lit.
1. br. fair.
D. M.iD. M.
31}t59 21
451160 42159 28
44,162 38161 29
2
351166 0165
331166 39165
431167 531867 13
39/1768 28/168 x
51/169 451169
|
371172 3l172
174 22/174
175
15
10175 24
181176 31176
131176 40:76
541177 1,174
361177 28
171179 371179 15
Eaft. | Eaft.
$1178 28:79
571177 301178 24
32176 #78
3$17s 40 176
3|174 49,176
|
111174 lg
30173 61174
lwea Lorg.
"ss
164 39) =
LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE
‘wet Lou
the Di
D. M.\D. M.}D. M. D.
32 176 tal 0/20
51176 aslrr
551178 36112
—
Fatt,
—
ie var. to E.§,
2
(CE cl.
21Do. fine br. cl.
WE. and E,S.E,.|.br, fai
* varying to N,
I
1/Do. moderate br. cl.
Winds; State of the Atnofy
Remarks,
round by N, littled
fair. dem. 4304,
E, and E.S.E, fr, br, (
‘jé S$. E.andE.N,
moderate br, fair
E, and E.S.E. pug
of wind, rain À
$ E.and. E.N. Bb
overcatt, rain
W. round by
cutts of wind, rain
sx N. E. and N,}
W. fr. br. do,
j NN. W. vai. toV
little Wind, hazy
W.N. W. varyin
to S. W. round b
W. little wind, ol. §
S.S. W. varying tq
W.N.W. round by
W.1. br. rain
W. and N. W, very
little wind, cl. .
W. and W. N. WA
da, fair
N. W. varying to N.
2 } E. round by N. mo-
derate br. fair
’N. and N. N.W.mo-
derate br. cl.
2|Do. fair
| $ W.N. W.andN.N,
W. 1. br. rain
E round by N. lit-
tle wind, cl.
1" W. varying to N.
1)
S. E. round by S. I. &
br. fair
j N. E. varying to FE.
I
N. W. guits of w.
rain
j S. E. varying to W.
t
1. br. fair
3 W. varying to S.
¥ 4 N.W. andW.N.W. §
E. round by §. |.
br. fair
S.S.E. and W. round
by S. mod. br.cl.rain
—_—)
D. MAL
fo 3311
10 44
to 2011
ho 3
io 30
ho 53i1
HU
fat
1021
Nn
North
Latitude.
at
20 481
10 47 1
27\r
20
©
L
391
211I
920 521
OV!
nio #6:
311
mio 26|
Vindsi State of the À
Remarks. timers
round by N, ite
fair. d, n, 43°,
Sy and EXS.E, fr, bree
Us S. E.andE.N,
moderate br. fair
Do. cl.
E. and E.S.E
E var. to E.$
of wind, r ain.
E. and. F. NE.
overcait, rain
Yo. fine br. cl,
1 and B.S. E. | br fai
FE. varying to N,
W. round by
quits of wind, rain
N..N. E. and N,}
W. fi. br. do,
Jo. moderate br. cl.
N.'N. W,. vai. to
little wind, hazy
| ane N. W. varying
| oS. W. round by
W. little wind, ci
“§. S$. W. varying tq
W.N.W. round by
W. 1. br. rain
W. and N. W, ver
little wind, cl...
W. and W. N. WA
da. fair
N. W. varying to N.
E. round by N. mo.
derate br. fair
N.and N. N.W.mo.
derate br. cl.
. fair
W.N. W. andN.N,
W. 1. br. rain
IN. W. varying to N.
E round by N, lit-
tle wind, cl.
. E. varying to E,
S. E. round by S18
br. fair
S. E. varying to W.
N. W. guits of w.
rain
.W.andW.N.W. 9
1, br. fair
. W. varying to S.
E. round by $. |.
br. fair
.S.E. and W. round
by S. mod. br.cl.rain
14/20
14120
North
Latitude.
. 31157
Com uted y the {by | nid.
pom nar ime
ball. Keeper, rn t
No, 18, su
pe
M.\D. MJD. MAD, M
331170 36179
44169 61170
201167 32/368
391166 0!166
30l164 301165
531163 sal1é4
391163 171164
481162 491163
47 161 3l16n
31158 571rs9
La
271136 33,157
21/1185 191156
521153 O154
OSE 3161
551149 141150
31147 181148
261146 51147
171144 381145
44844 21/145
41142 591143
57|141 49|142
91140 39/141
53l140 61140
451138 531139
si 251137
351149 57
49) —
cm
72 A aa
9 eet
33) —
19 ca
6 —
$5, —
131148 47
14146 39
23; —
49) “—
14] —
99
24, —
16] —
45, —
Fatt Longe } Raf tone, Variation Ther,
interi:
D. M. D.
12 24123
11 40,27
A1 19,22
11 29/21
BI mag
10 34/23
9 3824
to 1625
110 ‘ie
8 40122
8 30 23
~~ |22
(7 10}21
7 sal ok
7 pes
7 21 23
6 7 24
— M3
3 5723
3 3024
3 2423
3 ji
r 3821:
ROUND THE WORLD.
Harometer of
Nairne, olferved
at > in the morn.
ing, asd.
after. son.
D
P. LAP. L.
28
2128
in the
‘1 rain.
55
eee
Winds; Stataof the Atme(phere ÿ
Reinasks,
W. S. W. varying to:
N.N. E. round by
N. |. be. fair
3IN. and N. E. 1, br, cl.
LN. E. and NV E.
fine br. cl. rain:
TL. ant E. N. FE. [A br.
fair
#Ditto
E. varying to W. S
W. round by S. very
little wind, fair.
115 9. SW. and $. Ww.
Ü fine br. guits of wind
S$. Wand W.N.W.
irregular gufts of w.
rainy
ii W. varying to N.
E. round by N.gults
dé w. mad. br, cl.
Ne E. and FE. N, E.
fine br. cl.
E. Nw E. varying te
$, moderate br. cl.
2| 3 S- varying to N. W.
d round by W.lbr.cl.
W.N.W. varying to
N.E. L Pie fair
N. I. ant EB. NL EF.
tr. br. el.
E. and E.N.E. fine
br, fair
2|Ditto
E. and Se E. fr. br.
fair.
IN S. E. varying to’
SS. W. 1. bi. cl.
W. S. W. varying
to N. E moxtepatir
N. iE
hazy
PER bic
Fr Do. cl. vain
E.N.E. and N.E.
1. br, cl.
E.N.E. varying to
W. S. W. round by
S. mod. br. hazy
N,N. W. round by
W. |. br, fair
{"s S. W. varying to
2N. W.and N. |. br. fair
f' N. W. varying to
N. FE. rousd by N,
Lobr, fair
SS
a
a nnn se
: —— =
orth
Pit pv ro a
LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE
Computed LE pete oy eneDit.
Keeper
No. 18.
D. M.
22120
23 20
24/20
25/20
26120
27/21
28/21
29/21
30121
31122
2787
J. 1/22
2/22
\
3l22
21135 À 136 14
© 45/22
44131 271132 14) — O 42,22
i 23/134 31] —
5129 23/1130 171127 28| O 16/22
Wet.
19/126 30 — © 0 25/20
46,19
33/20
23/21
11,124 20125 22/122 58
11,122 23/123 7/120 18
15l121 17/122 Birrg 34
16/119 38/120 51) — — (22
21116 56119 4
tolt14 13/216 20
gltrz 58114 33
23112 8] —
4 —
+) Eat Lone.) variation | There ind
y.| at gin the morn- | Winds 5 State of the Atmofphd
‘ ay a ing, and 3 in the Remarks, |
* | noon
Barometer of
Nairne, obferved
Lo dé
N. E. and E.N,
fine br. cl.
3 ta N.E, and N,
1. br; cl;
N:E. and N.N.
{trong br. cl.
3|N.E. and N. fine br.d
N. N. W. andN,
A E. very ftrong b
haz
N. N. E. andE,d
412 cl. rain
3\N. E. arid E. fine br.cf
E. and E. S. E. m¢
derate br. cl.
E.S. E.andN.N. 5
roundbyE. finebr.c
N. E. and E.N.E
fr. br. overcalt, fin:
rain |
6428 4/N. E. moderate br. m
28 N. E. änd E. N, ‘
5?” 512 fine br. mitt
N. E. varying to
W. round by
_ fine breeze, overca
fmall rain
N. and N.E.1.b
overcaft
528 5
Pr North
April, Latitude,
wd lobferved at
ways noon.
QUE
|p. M.
jan At Macao.
14 29
Sailed fro.
Cavita,
Inds ÿ State of the Atmofohe À
i Remarks, cad Or
fed. | North
api, | Latitude, | Latitude, | Longitude,| the Moon
North
g.
by the Dif:| Eaft Long. | No. ia, at
by the | noon, cor-
Time réét:d by
Eaft :
Faft Lon;
tances of
ph md jobferved at} computed | computed | from the
'N. E. and E.N,
fine br. cl.
E. N. E, and N.
L br: cl:
N:E. and N.N.
~ ftrong br. cl.
E. and N. finebr.d
N.N.W.andN,
E. very ftrong |
hazy
N.N. E. andE, d
cl, rain
. E. and E. fine br.cf
E. and E. $. E. m
derate br. cl.
noon.
E.S.E.andN.N.I 6|17
roundbyE. finebr.d 3117
'N. E: and E.N.E 41|17
fr. br. overcatt, {ma 48115
rain | 51115
33/14
. E. moderate br, m 25/14.
N. E. and E.N. At Cavita,
fine br. mift 7 Bis
Sailed fro.
N.E, varying to
Cavita,
13/22
at noou,
S4lr11
31112
54/112
19|112
551113
551115
O|115
30/116
20/117
9,117
19118
48/118
44/118
45/118
25/117
441117
11117
31117
27|118
W. round by
fine breeze, overca ic | be ie
* fimall rain 44l1s 48l117
N. and N.E.1.b 16 4 tt 116
53/10 46,117
overcatt . Dy Pole
3217 33/117
13/18 09 g.inr7
32/19 21|117
o]20 53/118
28|21 19/117
— [21 45/117
1/22 7|117
10/22 7|117
26/22 20117
51/22 45116
59123 see
39/22 42|117
58/22 63117
29/23 «19/117
at noon,
ROUND THE WORLD.
Keeper, | obferv. of
sun No. 18. | lift. of M. i
reduced at} atnoon. | from Sun, |
noon, and ufed in
the Chart. i
M.D. MD. MD. M.\M. D.
j
47 L
34 NF
36 |
59] — 113 o
40) — |113 54
a} — |114 53 |
58). — IIS 33 |
29] — |116 6 il
6} — |116 49 il
52] — |117 26 14
16 — |117 55 |
27| — |118 25
20] —— |118 22
ri] — |118 26
46| — |118 27
17| — |117 37
18] — |117 33
56 see ha All the fol.
Longitu es
are found-
Longit, of “ oe
the Ob- 118 35/118 35|%owhici,
fervatory. they have
25) — {117 13/117 12 pple
10| — |117 6l117 6
$7| — |116 53l116 52
11] — |117 16|117 14
18| — |117 24/117 22
22| — |117 35117 33
14] — |117 265117 22
Wr] — 117 17/117 14
29) == |117 git17 6
35) — |tr7 ël117 5
20] — [116 54/116 51
10| —= 1116 46|116 42
36| — |117 13l117 9
481167 30/117 391117 34
Mean be-
42 “Sbiervas [117 33|117 28
tions weft,
17| — [116 181116
23) — |117 441117
13], — |117 37|117
183, —— |117 40/117
— |117 S1|117
— |118 15|118
— |119 17119 |
— |119 18119
— |119 52|119
— |120 27/120"
— |120 39|120
wm |121 19/120
Long. by
TimeKeep.
sovcceets:
Se eNO te oe = — RE
BREST. iene ‘arse aie ee. =.
h
North North
LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE
Eaft
Latitude, | Latitude, | Lougitude,| t4
June, lobferved at) eomputed | computed | from the
noon. at noon,
53
50
37
22144 54145
23145 8145
4; — a
sun
at noou, ,
reduce at
120
120
120
Place of
anchor,
17
tions Weft.
44
27
41
49
20
48
59
32
53}
6
28
35
133 40
131 13
131 32
The firf of
ithefe 3 1¢-
filts, is by
a meanbe
tween 48
obferva-
tions Eaft ;
the feconi!
by 480 ob-
| fervations
F.it; and
the third
by 396 ob-
fervations
Eaft
| zat Long.
b. the
Long, by
limekeep.
Time
Keeper,
No, 18,
at noon,
121
121
121
121
122
123
121
121
121
121
122
122
124
124
126
127
128
128
128
f129
130
131
132
132
133
133
134
135
135
134
133
1132
132
133
133
134
135
135
125 §
126 23
127 du!
228 7
128 7:
128 33}
129 20
130 17
1517 16
131 54
1932 10|'
132 58
1133 27
321134 31
351134 32
21332 57
1831132 11
101131 I
331131 22
5531 52
25132 10
411133 24
133 47/7
201134 ©
1135 33/134 11
135 581134 34.
136 6,134 40|-
43
5
56
26
331135 421136
5718) LS
10/20 obfe:va-| I 36
2 tions Wett, I 36
At the
52 place of |f 36
anchor,
17/134 50
311135 2
291134 58
281134 56
201134 46]
jus | North
pis Latitude,
At the ob.
fervatory,
North Eaft,
Latitude, | Longitude,
ind tubferved at} computed | computed | from the
Be at nyon. | at noon.
Eaft Long.
by the bi.-/ Weft Lorg.
tances of
thé Moon
sun,
ROUND THE WORLD.
Long. by
rime Keep.
No. a4, at
by ihe | moon, cor-
Thine rected by
Keeper, | obferv, of
No. 18. | dift. of M,
reduced at} at noon. | from Sun,
40/138 33
541139 27
331140 3811
obferva-
tions Eat.
ahd ufed in
the Chart.
136 27,134 47
137 40135 58
133 521137 9
148 581137 14
139 3,137 16
139 131137 22
139 1331137 21
139 191137 25
139 40,137 44
39 351140 55138 57
Mean of 96
18/140 49139 23148 151139 15
{Mean of 56
11/140 49
9/140 57
obferva-
tions ER
139 41
141 201139 18
141 341139 30
6lr41 22/139 45/145 561139 51
\The firft by
72 obferva-
tions Entt ;
he fecond
by 238 do,
Atthe
21! place of
— |141 25
10140 58
261140 32
171140 20
18140 5
121140 5
431141 8]
s9|t4t
34
dices 2
231140 49
291139 57
40) —
141 1
anchor,
— [140 15439 49
10
At the
place of
a. chor.
138 45
1132 49
rs? Sige 58
141 421139 31
141 201139 7
14 15139 0
141 31138 46
141 71138 48
142 131139 52
142 231140 I
142 27/139 59
142 71139 37
141 371139 S
141 44/139 11
Atthe
pl eot
anchor.
Ditto,
At aP.M.
141 58 139 22 anchorcd
At anchor
in Baie de |I42 30 a
Cattries.
in Baie de
Cattries.
=,
D
So dur ese
LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE
Faft Longitude
the time heen’ wy
18, fuppofing the
Augutt Eaft Longitude, by|Longitude of the bay
and North Latitude | North Latitude Faf Longitude |the diftarces of thelof Caftries to be 148
September, lobferved at noon.|computed at noon.| computed at noon. [moon from the fun,|d. 45 m. 11 f. and
4797+ reduced at nogn. |the time loft every
day by the time.
keep, to be equal to
40 m. 40f,
SD. M. S.D.
Auguft 241139 35 §0
57139 oo 15
81139 30 16
231139 11 20
211139 40 59
45139 9 48
54139 40 24
By a mean between
48 diftances of the
mo.from the fun caft
01139 59 38
34140 15
321140 30
$li40 48
34141 13
27\142 30
81143 27
81143 43
521144 35
53l145 51
THE «
were very
val in the
going of
tances, W
during th
fervations
The fir
tothe tim
By amean between , .
150 diflances of the tained at
m.from the fun weft eat of Pa
181147 32 30145 22 tween Ma
541148 8 12 of fome ol
59147 55 41 min, 5 bu
41148 9 31 cluded thi
11|149 11 28 many occt
32/149 39 7 move any
38 149 32 5 he had afc
501149 35 34 Ecole Mil
441149 5 53 _ The cc
- $9/149 28 50 gitude of
11/1650 41 the laft c
3 26 Dagele
September 1 40 correction
2/48 keeper in
caer AL V5 his refult
trom the fun, eat. at the dif
7157 6 441156 D polation,
Mean between 32
diftances of the mo
from the fun, eaft.
27 161165 42 658157 13 4sirt
11 193156 4 7 — 1.7
30 49/156 8 23 —
44 39/155 26 18 ps
At anchor, At anchor.
O° 39/1585 14 27
RER
SERRE
N. B. The following Table was addreffed, independently of the Journal of the Voy-
age, by Dagelet to Fleurieu, the Ex-minilter of Marine, fiom whom I received
it. Although the explanation of this ‘Fable, and particularly that of the Co-
luinn of Correétions, does not throw all the Light on the Subjeét that might be
defired, I was of opinion the Publication of thefe Pieces, without alteration,
might be ‘etul to Navigators and Aftronomers,—French Editor,
Faft Longitude
time ‘kee i
al of the Voy-
dom I received
at of the Co-
that might be
out alteration,
ROUND THE WORLD:
EXPLANATION
OF THE
ANNEXED TABLE OF LONGITUDES,
FROM APRIL 11, TO SEPTEMBER 7, 1787.
THE obfervations of diftances of the moon from the fun, both to the eaft and weft,
were very numerous during our navigation in the feas of Eaft Tartary, till our arri-
val in the bay of Awatfcha. By them we were enabled frequently to afcertain the
going of the time-keeper, No. 19, by comparing the longitudes obtained by the dif.
tances, with thofe which the time-keeper.would have bl on the fuppofition, that,
during this whole navigation, it had preferved the daily motion deduced from the ob-
frvations made at Cavita.
The firft column of longitude prefents, each day, the longitude of the fhip, reduced
tothe time of noon, as given by time-keeper, No. 19, according to its daily rate afcer-
tained at Cavitas and by fuppofing the fituation of that port to be 117 deg. 30 min.
eat of Paris, as deduced from the difference of meridian given by the time-keeper be-
tween Macao and Cavita, all the corrections being made. A mean between the refults
of fome obfervations of diftances weft, gave the longitude of Cavita in 117 deg. 50
min.; but on reducing the obfervations made at Macao to this port, Dagelet con-
cluded this refult to be too much by from 13 min. to 15 min, 2 fec. He had obferved,
many occultations of fmall ftars by the moon, according to which he propoled to re-
move any doubts that might remain as to the longitude of Cavita, being certain that
he had afcertained the pofition of thofe planets inthe journals of his obfervatory at the
Ecole Militaire.
~ The column of correétions contains thofe which each day muft be made in the lon-
gitude of the time-keeper, No. 19, in order to obtain the true longitude exprefled in
the laft column. oe
Dagelet does not explain the method he made ufe of in drawing up the column of
corrections , we only know, that, after having computed the gain or lofs of the time-
keeper in the interval between two feries of obfervations eaft and weft, by comparing
his refults with the mean refult of each feries, he deduced the error of the time-keeper
at the different periods of the lunar obfervations ; and thence derived by way of inter-
| polation, the corrections for the intermediate days,
. 62 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE
henge’ by the june 1th
Time Keeper, No, 19, % i
Cavita belag 117 ‘lege Corrections. True Longitude,
April, May, and June,
1787. Û
go min, Eatt of Paris,
Latitude.
nes | eee nc —_—_eo“——————— ae eee
D. M. S. D. M. S. D. §, June
April 18 8 117 37 36 118
45 0 116 59 30 117
11 53 117 23 15 117
46 33 117 21 30 117
3 117 39 118
30 Sees ha son
9 117 24
30 117 18
57 117 39
25 117
118
117
r18
117
117
118
118
117
116
118
118
117
118
Comp.
5 119
119
120
120
121
121
| 121
51
Comp.
o
50
55
5
13
PELAAPT TEEPE EDEL UNE UMTS
ROUND THE WORLD. 63
Longitude by the
une and Jul Time Keeper, No. 19
ù 1787 Ye Latitude, Cavita being rh deg Corroétions. True Longitude.
True Longitude, go m, Eaft of Paris.
DRE
nn D M. S. D. M. Ss. M. A D. M. Ss.
S, | D, M, §, June 6 | 37 39 12 134 3a 10
31 | 118 4 > 7 1 38 28 24 134 35 39
16 | 117 28 46 8 | 39 16 53 33% 11 44
44 117 54 59 9 = — — eee
55 | 117 55 25 10 | 40 48 35 131 19 56
48 | 118 15 33 11 | 41 54 46 131 35 30
15 12 | 42% 35 46 132 3 45
35 | 118 2 42 13 | 42 47 4 132 20 30
38 | 117 57 53 14 | 43 32 31 133 36 20
24 | 118 19 54 15 | 43 53 Comp.| — — —
55 | 117 40 55 16. | 43 54 20 134 8 15
10 17 | 44 20 Comp.| — — —
9 | 117 36 54 18 | 44 7 30 nsc se.
S1 | 118 22 1 19 | 44 30 o 134 52 30
13 | 118 21 43 20 | 44 43 o 135 1 15
49 | 117 21 4 21|— — — _—_——
55 | 116 56 25 as 45 2 § 135 22 30
O | 118 12 15 | 23145 9 32 135 5 53
4/118 o 434 24 | 45 10 32 134 51 15
7 117 53 52 25 Lativude of anchorage. Lony of anchorage.
9 | 118 14 24 à 26 | 4$ 11 16 134 61 15
10 27 | 45 11 43 4 54 45
10 | 119 42 o 28 | 46 4 4 4 19
9 | 119 42 16 29 | 46 so 18 14 2
6 30 | 47 19 16 12 5
1 | 120 36 46 July 1147 50 2 30
55 | 120 58 10 2 | 47 44 24 ©
47 | 121 33 27 | =
38 | 121 22 38 4a|[— —
28 | 121 20 13 5147 43
6
7
8
23
59
53
21
34
37
56
°
28
11
9
18
10
26
43
19
PPPTEEPEET TTP EP EP PETE ETT adda
5
12
4r
15
51
30
34
2
4
10
30
40
35
15
26
27
°
43
des
30
64 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE
Longitude by the
Auguft and september, Time Keeper, No. 195 Corredtion
1787. Cavita being 117 deg. ee True Longitude,
go min, Haft of Paris.
D.
139
M. D.
48 138
49
CL 139
52 138
53 139
139
Auguft
140
139
140
139
139
140
140
140
140
141
142
143
145
145
146
148
149
© CN AUP WwW D
148
149
150
150
152
—
3
September =
156
157
158
158
158
PELE TP EPP EEE EEE PEGE TEEPE s
ERRA.TUM.
In Abbreviatidffs to the Tables for « declination’ read ** dip.”
SUBSTANCE
True Longitude,
=
os
w
rey
conoro.
Sant
os
©
Nn
Ns
om
z
HBFH OCH OY AS RE DW 0:
a
+
o
te
ESS
on
oe
— 2 —
©
mi
&È
N
np
“N —
wm
°o oo
7
2ooaon
od
+
00
EN
a
un
Le]
NH DO OO = pO
ent
wn
a
+»
Co
wn
Le]
« dip.”
SUBSTANCE
Zz
O
ps
<
=
À
<
>
LL
LAs
O
<
=
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
a ne SRE ATP ET NI ITI ONES
16
14
Vos o
AH
i
A
+ %
Fe & Pinus > :
i yee a À ‘ “4 hi am
wuts, oa
tye à
11% ey
; pie 9 ao
Te MN tre Patton a thse De Re. Ba a .
Yi ouipitéao SUBSTANCE OP THE:
By ae 0
ee
02 De DOVE tee DRE Se Em "Pe VE RENE OU OP M De Me ye oer rr
VELS OVER THE CONTIN iN |
À à A ‘ 4 2 4 i, Re * , FD | u à
7 ¥ 3 à ol , — ? “Fast
saat à : 4 - WEEE toe à pie oP ase © *
a +
000 ic ufr rar msraTem teen 2 ue 0
s ues! A
US TR t
‘LaPe
14 fae be at oe ey es, Lui
és RARE ety ae 4 7
ta
2
«RCA
Fa Res De es NES hod Pa dx - alee iy Fe AS +
‘ie Phe Years 177 and 1786, °°"
PR ae aed Lass oa eS RC à ARTS Ve A NS ee ey
nS à FENTE LS à OA PAPER SAT à Rar
“4 Gi de : ge Ù ae ae @
ja : EUR FN Pee IE EM
iF. ERA
ko
i
tol MERANSLAT RONROQM THE FRENCHY) | 1 1
neh frigates, the Aftrolabe and tha
; Having arrived at the port. of Saint
d Saint Paul, in the Bay of Avaticha, on the
Pree site TEL SRE" LR Per. LRU SR eis Cota ay
ptember, 1787, it appeared defirable. to
#
#
‘de ls Péroufe, Commander in Chief of. the
lob, “for the reafons affigned in the Voyage,
dhs’ dlipatctes over land to Pari With this
he-entrufted M. de Leffeps, Conful of France,
“Bail Actonipanied Him two years, and wha
i particularly fitted for the undertaking, from his
7owledge of the language of Ruffia.” On the 29th,
| therefore, of the fame month, M, de Leffeps quitted
| the Aftrolabe, and having received the difpatches and
nftructions of the Count de la Péroufe, took leave
hit and his colleague, the Vifcount de Langle, in
> evening, and was conducted to the houfe of Co-
ick Kaflotf-Ougrenin,; Governor-General of Okotik
and Kamtfchatka, to whom the Count-had ftrongly
ecommended him. == EAT
nu the morning of the doth, the frigates left the
ay with a fair wind, and were.prefently out of fight.
+ Kafloff had promifed to accompany, M. de. Lef-
féps'as far as Okottk, the refidence ofithe Governor,
whither he was ander the neceffity of going imme-
ttely. A few days, however, which the neceflary
angements and préparations for their departure re-
2 TRAVELS FROM
… quired, gave M. de Leffeps an opportunity of making
fome remarks upon what he faw, and of noticing, in
particule the bay of Avatfcha, with the port of Saint
eter and Saint Paul. © a LU
The bay, fince the time ‘of Captain Cook, by
whom it was then accurately defcribed, has under-
gone fome alterations ; and from the great and ufe-
ful talents of M. Kafloff,‘farther improvements are
expected, efpecially with regard to the port of Saint
Peter and Saint Paul, which will render it com-.
pletely,. what indeed former navigators have already
adjudged it, the moft commodious and fafeft port in
that part of.Afiä. The number of :houfes here at
this time did not exceed five or fix, inhabited by
’ the Governor, whofe name was Khabaroff, and with
whom M. Kafloff refided, the ferjeant and corporal
of the garrifon, which confifted of forty foldiers or
coffacs, and a building which ferved as a ma Raine.
But the plan of M. Kafloff extends to the building a
tov. i,. which may become the general commercial
depôt.of the country ; and which is like to be the
cafe, when the advantages of this port over all others
are confidered, where the navigation has been held
fo dangerous, that, by an exprefs edict of the Em-
prefs, it was entirely prohibited after the 26th of Sep-
tember. ‘The village, fituated on the narrow pro-
jection of land at the entrance of the port, comprized
thirty or forty habitations, fome of them ufed in Sum-
mer, Others in winter; and the inhabitants, men, wo-
men, and children, including thofe belonging to the
garrifon, did not exceed one hundred. =" :
Lofty mountains, forne covered with fhow, and
others that. have volcanos, render the banks of Avat-
fcha. Bay difficult of accefs. The vallies are ex-
tremely fertile? abounding with. grafs of an aftonifh-
ing height, intermixed with a variety of flowers, that
throw around a charming fragrancy. Spring and
Autumn are.in general rainy, and in Autumn and
gees ag Ni ee, "Winter
‘“unfortuna
Winter b
fometime
not perce
prefented
or May.
little thu
Two ri
Avatfcha,
ratounka.
cies of
the ice eff
does in
Paul.
On the
this port,
leff, Eafe
rokhoff, §
made; 4
foldiers,
command
whole par!
der to cro
plied with
The oft
arrived in
the river €
mouth. |
Peter and
made by t
number 0
ter houfes
built of w
fian villag
receiv
| houfe, anc
The ba
ment, raif
KAMTSCHATKA, 3
Winter blafts of wind are frequent.. The Winter is
fometimes rainy, but though long, M. de Lefleps did
not perceive its rigour fo exceffive as it has been re-
prefented. Snow falls from Odtober till April or
or May. The Summer is tolerably fine, with but
little thunder, and that never injurious.
Two rivers empty themfelves into the bay, the
Avatfcha, from which the bay is named, and the Pa-
ratounka, ‘They abound. with fifh, and every, fpe-
cies of wild fowl, but after the 26th of November
the ice effectually clofes them up, as it commonly
in January the port of Saint Peter and Saint
ul. | |
On the 7th of October, M. de Leffeps quitted
this ports in company with Mefirs. Kafloff; Schma-
leff, Infpector-General for the Kamtfchadales; Vo-
rokhoff, Secretary to the Governor; Ivafchkin, an
unfortunate exile, of whom great mention has been
made; and four ferjeants, with thc fame number of
foldiers, who formed: the Governor’s. fuite. : The
commanding officer of the fort alfo attending, the
whole party embarked in baidars, . ¢. boats, in or-
der to crofs the bay to Paratounka, and there be fup-
plied with horfes. :
The oftrog, a village of Paratounka, whither they
arrived in five or fix hours, is fituated by the fide of
the river of that name, about two leagues from ‘its
. mouth. It is not more populous than that of Saint
Peter and St. Paul, owing, perhaps, to the ravages
made by the fmall-pox; and contains neafly the fame
number of.balagans and ifbas, or fuminer and win-
ter houfes, as Petroparlofska.. Here was a church, :
built of wood, and ornamented like thofe in the Ruf-
fan villages, with a refident prieft or rector, who
received M. de Leffeps and his company into his
houfe, and treated them with great hofpitality. |
The balagan, or fummer houfe, is only one apart-
ment, raifed upon pofts about twelve or thirteen feet.
(a 2) -. from
4 TRAVELS FROM .
from: the ground, forming a rough fort of colonade,
with.a floor or platform of rafers joined to each
other, and overfpread with clay, and a conical roof,
covered with a kind of thatch or dried grafs. . An
opening: in. the roof lets out the fmoke when a fire is
neceflary, and in this one apartment they cook, eat,
drink, and-flecp. ‘The entrance is by atree: raifed :
from: the ground to the floor, upon which fteps are
rudely cut; and when thefe fteps are turned in-
wards; it denotes. that no one is at home.’
The principal food of ‘the Kamitfchadales and of
their dogs, is dried fifh, which ishung.up:underthe —
colonade of the balagan, out of the reach of the
dogs, the moft vicious of which are tied to the pofts.
The dogs are ufed to draw their fledges, a, defcrip-
tion of which will be given. The ifba, or winter
houfe, confifts of two rooms, with a ftove fo fixed. as
to warm: both. : In the larger rooms are benches co-
vered with bear’s fkin, which makes a bed for the
chief of the family ; befides this, there isa table, and
a number of images :of Saints. ‘The panes of the
windows, which are fmall, are made. either of the
fkins of falmon, the bladders of various: animals, or
the gullets of fea-wolves; and fometimes, among
the richer: people, of the leaves of talc, which is
more tranfparent than any other material. ‘Thefe.
winter houfes have no colonade or portico, but have
their fides raifed from the ground, by laying trees
one upon: another, and filling the interftices with
-clay ; the rdof flants, and is thatched..
Every oftrog, or village, is governed by a magif-
trate, called. Toyon, who is chofen by a majority
from among the natives, though the election mutt
be approved by the jurifdiction of. the province ;
under, him is. an: affiftant of his own!) appointment,
called Yefaoul; andiupon any complaint againft thefe.
magiftrates, they: are difmifiéd: by fuperior tribunals,
and others recommended to be elected;in their Pass
. f n
.
the virtu
“Onwth
lers, con
or févèn
satounke
greater
Koriaki t
der of t
night, a!
kin, refo
hood, fo
genuity
prompte
for the b
a little
called tl
could re
the oppo
feven an
deferiber
‘paths, v
caufed h
vote fom
veftigati
fing feve
tion, thi
journey
and Bol
afforded
and two
ance of
ds they
obliged
ceeded ¢
Kamtfcl
with lot
ade,
each
roof,
. An
Are is
eat,
aifed :
S are
d'1n-
f the
ls, or
none
ch Ë
Chefe.
have
trees
with
agif-
jority
muft
nce;
nent,
thefe:
nals,
tead.
On
_ . RAMTSCHATKA, 5
‘On the th; M. de Leffeps; with his fellow-travel-
lers, contiñüeéd their journey on horfeback; arid'in fix -
or fevénhouts arrived at Koriaki, which, from Pa-
satounka’ is from thirty-eight to forty werfts *. The
greater part of the baggage was conveyed by water,
Koriaki being fituated in a fmall wood upon the bor-
der of the river Avatfcha. Here they paffed the
night, and the next day fet forward towards Natchi-
kin, refolving to ftay a few days in’ the néighbour-
hood, for the fake of fome warm medicitial fprings,
uthe virtues of which had been afcertained by the in-
genuity of M. Kafloff, and whofe goodnefs had -
prompted’ him to build commodious bathing-rooms
for the bénefit of the Kamtfchadales. Pafling over
a little mountain, they at length had to ford a river
called the Bolchaia-reka, or large river, before they
could reach thé village Natchikin, which ftood on
the oppofite fide, and was found to contain fix or:
feven and twenty houfes, like thofe that have been
defcribed. Hence they hafted immediately to the
paths, which were diftant two werfts; and having
caufed huts to be raifed to fleep in, refolved to de-
voté fome little time for the purpofe of minutely in-
veftigating the properties of the water. After paf-
fing féveral days in this enquiry with great fatisfac-
tion, the 17th was fixed for the profecution of their
journey ; and as this was to be by water to Apatchin
and Bolcheretfk, ten boats or canoes, all the country
afforded, were procured, of which, by lafhing two
and two together, rafts were formed ‘for the convey-
ance of themfelves, and as much of their baggage
as they could lay on them; but fome of it they were
obliged to leave behind, In this manner they pro-
ceeded down the Bolchaia-reka, with the help of four
Kamtfchadales, who fometimes pufhed on the rafts
with long poles, and at others got into the water and
* About eighteen or twenty miles.
(A 3) hauled
6 TRAVELS FROM
hauled them; the river, in many places, being only
one or two feet deep, in fome not more than fix
inches. The navigation, however, being extremely
difficult, on account of ftones,and fhoals, and even
trees that lay in the way, it was thought imprudent
to continue the voyage after day-lights and M.
Kafloff having a tent with him, this was pitched on
the right-hand bank of the river, at the entrance of
a wood, near the place, according ta Cook’s Voyage,
where Captain King and his party halted, Here they
paffed the night with tolerable comfort, and fetting
out early the following day, in four hours they
reached. the fmall village of Apatchin, where, find-
ing ‘nothing to excite curiofity, they made the beft
of their way to Bolcheretik, and arrived.there at fe.
ven in the evening.
_ M. de Leffcps was, immediately on his lan ing, |
conducted to the houfe of the Governor, who fhewed
him every civility in his power; but. his attention.
was at ance arrefted by the news of a galliot from
Okotfk haying juft been wrecked a little diftance
‘from Bolcheretfk. One of thefe galliots, it feems, is —
difpatohed every year, by order of Government, laden
with provifions and other articles of merchandize for
the ufe of the peninfula, M, Kafloff, wifhing to give
every affiftance in his power towards faving the gal-
liot, determined on going to the wreck, and invited
M. de Lefleps to accompany him. With this view
they fet out on the morning of the 20th,. at eleven
o’clock, upon two floats conftructed. of canoes, and
at feven in the evening landed at Tchekafki, a
trifling hamlet, where was a building called a ma-
gazine, to réceive the fupplies which are brought
from Okotfk. Having flept at this: hamlet, the next
day they renewed their project ; which however, af-
ter various attempts, the violence of the hurricanes,
and the rapidity and agitation of the river, grown
wider and deeper towards its mouth, obliged them ta
| Loi abandon;
abandon
they pe
“ arri
. There
this tow
retfk, wh
and: chil
hundred,
yenty co
military:
every ki
are merc
. Thec
Ruffians
credulou
induced
of one j
prevailed
beauty,
their trac
particula
drunken:
year goe:
all their
dear ;-br
a vedro «
to twent
pounds 1
is made.
half the
In div
fer little
of their:
on one |
nankeen
this fhi
wear. be
ways we
KAMTSCHATKA. YJ
abandon ;) and patting: back to Tchekafki, where
they paffed another night, on the evening of the: 22d.
ve arrived again at Bolcherettk. , tyeyiaby iat
-: There appears to be: nothing very, remarkable in
this town or fort, Krepoft, as it is called, of Bolche-.
retfk, where the population, including men; women,
and: children, amounts to between }two and. three
hundred, among which is to be reckoned fixty or fe-
yenty coflacs or foldiers; who, in: addition to, their
military duty, which is but trifling, are.employed in.
every kind of labour. The: reft of the inhabitants
are merchants and failors: hy ited oe hie:
. The chief excellence: ofithe people here}; who. are
Ruffians and. coffacs, feems to lie in -ehiéating the
credulous Kamtfchadales, who for.a little;brandy are
induced tobarter at confiderable lof. And.an inftance
of one js given, who for a glafs of | this liquor: was
prevailed on to part with feven fables | of the greateft
beauty, which was all he had, : The chief part of
their trade is furs, among) which that of the fable is
particularly. valuable ; but fuch is their propenfity to.
drunkennefs, that frequently the ftock of a whole
year goes for the indulgence of it... The fearcity of
all their wares and provifions makes them extremely
dear ;- brandy is immenfely fo, efpecially the French,
a vedro of which, a meafure:containing from fifteen
to twenty quarts, fells for eighty roubles, or eighteen
pounds fterling ; that brought from Okottk, or which
is made: from a fwect herb in the country, is fold for
half the price. bug @: |
» In living and drefs, the people of Bolcheretfk dif-
fer little from the Kamtfehadales.. The exterior part
of their-drefs:is the {kins of various animals, tanned
on one fide, under which they wear a fhort fhirt of
nankeen or-cotton-.; the women, as a luxury, make
this fhirt or fhift of: filk. Both men and women
wear. boots Summer and Winter, and the men al-
ways wear fur caps. The women -are: clothed like
(A 4) the
8 TRAVELS PROM
the Rufflan' women, except thofe, who: fometimes
adopt-the drefs of the men. Their food eens
is dried fifh, fruit, atid vegetables; which: laft it is
the bufinefs of the’ women to collect. The moft com-
mon fort of. fifh is trout,. and falmon of different
kinds: the tribe of vegetables is not numerous.
The figure of the Kamtfchadale, almoft too well
known to'need defcription, is fhort, rather corpu-
tent, a flat nofc, black hair, with little or no beard,
and a sp aa teen In their manners, they are
fimple, mild, and'hofpitable; given, it cannot be de-
nied, to floth, drunkennefs, and idlenefs ; ‘confe-
‘quently, they are negligent in point of cleanlinefs ;
but poffefling a degree ‘of honour and’ humanity,
which the vices of’ Europeans: have not. yet oblite-
rated. In fome, however, ‘the growing influence of
what ‘is called civilization’ may’ be perceived.’ Jt is
only when civilizers are governed by ‘ftrict: religion
and prudence that they canbe deemed ufeful.
. de Leffeps and his companions gave frequent
balls to the ladies of Bolcheretfk, who were flrongly
addicted to pleafure, and the young ones feemed
prematurely forward. ‘They pofiefied a cheerfulnefs
not always kept within the pale of ‘decency, were
fond of finging and dancing, and on ball nights their
drefs was coftly and alluring. Their hufbands, how-
ever, are ftrangers to jealoufy ; for. which, perhaps,
there mfght be no reafonable foundation. if
The dances of the native Kamtfchadales are fa:
gular, and by no means pleafing ; the perfo:mance
being little more than imitating the various motions,
amorous and otherwife, of the different animals in
the country, particularly thofe of the Bear, in which
they are moft favagely accurate. |
‘Their/method of taking the bear is fometimes by
fnares, which are fcaffoldings fufficiently raifed, and
fo conftructed as to kill the animal by falling on
him. ‘Sometimes they are fhot; on which ee
: the
the. hunt!
and a kni
in ambuft
vifions wi
mifles ; b
then atta
danger, a
life. Th
ters, of '
hares, are
times, in
extreme |f
firft viéto
Their fea
the fur of
have feat
caught in
at any tir
‘* mon nets
with whi
in the fi
land.
Horfes
were fon
coflacs, b
in Summ
other efft
vellers.
dogs, abc
in abund
or carrias
expénce,
for them.
fuffered :
proach «
commen
with gre:
native, h
KAMTSCHATKA. ‘9
the huntfman is provided with a carabine, a fpear,
and a knife; and as-he is frequently. obliged to lie
in ambufh feveral days, he carries a fupply of provi-
vifions with him. His aim with the carabine feldom
miffes ; butif the bear does not fall, the fportfman
then attacks him with his fpear, often with great
danger, and:not unfrequently with the:lofs of his own
life. The rein-deer, argali or wild fheep, ‘foxes, ot-
ters, of which there are few, beavers, fables, and
hares, are hunted nearly in the famemanner. Some-
times, in thefe excurfions, the Kamtfchadales fuffer
extreme hunger, which they eagerly appeafe on the
firft viétory, by eating the raw flefh of the animal.
Their feafons be hunting depend on the time when
the fur of the animal is in higheft perfe@ion. They
have feafons alfo for fifhing. Salmon and trout are
caught in June, herrings.in May, and the fea-calf
at any time but in Winter, They moftly ufe com-
‘+ mon nets, made of packthread, or a kind of harpoon,
with which they are very dexterous, or bafkets placed
in the fame manner as thofe for cels are in Eng-
land. '
Horfes are not common in Kamtfchatka. There
were fome at Bolcheretfk, under the care ‘of the
coffacs, belonging to Goyernment, which were ufed
in Summer for the conveyance of merchandize and
other effects of the Crown, and for the ufe of tra-
vellers. ‘To make up for this deficiency, they have
dogs, about’ the fize of the Englith fhepherds’ dogs,
in abundance. They ferye for all purpofes of draught
or carriage, and are fed on offals, without trouble or
expénce, In Summer, when there is little or no ufe
for them, no care is beftowed on them, and they are
fuffered to range over the country ; but on the ap-
proach of Winter, though their labour is then to
commence, they voluntarily return to their mafters
with great punctuality. No individual, Ruffian or
native, has fewer than five of thefe animals, which
accompany
10 : " ,FRAVELS FROM
gecompany him to the forefts to cut wood, and, as
eccafion ferves, draw his cffeéts and ;provifions, as
well.as himfelf, They are harneffed to a fledge two
and two, with a fingle one at the head by way of
leader, who is trained for this purpofe, | and: exhibits
wonderful,docility. The pair is fattened together by
couples through the collars, which are frequently —
covered with: bear's-fkin. |
The form of the fledge is that of an oblong baf-
ket, with the extremities elevated in a curve.» It is
three. feet long and about one broad; the!body is of
thin wood; the fides of open work, ornamented with
differently coloured firaps. .' The feat of the driver is
covered. with. bear’s-fkin, and raifed three feet from
the ground, upon four legs, which diverge. tawards
the bottom, and are faftcned to two parallel planks,
three or four inches broad... Thefe planks arg not
thick, -but are langer than the body.of the fledge, to
which they ferve as fhpports as well, as fkates. For
this purpofe they are guarded at bottom, in time of
thaw, with three or four pieces; of whalebone of the
fame breadth, and faftened to the {kates with thongs
of leather, ‘The two ends,of the planks:in front
bend upwards, to join a,crafs piece of wood, fo placed
as to hold part of the baggage... The front of the
fledge is further ornamented with floating reins, or
fhreds of leather, which are-entirely ufelefs. The
conduétor holds nothing in, his:hand byt a curved
fick, with which he guides and ufes as a whip. At
one end of.this {tick are fufpended iron rings, which
ferve to ornainent.as well as to encourage the dogs by
the noife which fhaking them makes from timé to
tine. The other end is armed with an, iron point,
in order to give it more. hold on the igeé.or fnow.
There is no need of {peaking to dogs well, trained.
Jt is fufficient to ftrike the {now with the ftick to
guide them to the left, or the legs of the fledge to
turn them to the right; to ftop, it is only to place
me _ the
the ftick
dogs flac
attentive
pare a
teit a
eg of th
The Kan
exercife.
managed
fmal} pra
coft M. «
before he
as to trav
of fitting
horfeback
point, as
and it is
attitude.
would ha
rides. in
at.which :
fnow as w
Before th
quently fi
get out
made of t
four feet |
with leatt
fkates, ar
the fea-w
The tr:
having a |
carriage c
The infid
fkin, and
fea-wolf,
The di!
feps were
KAMTSCHATKA: 1}
the ftick between the fledge and the .fnow ; if the
dogs flacken their pace, or become carelefs and in-
attentive to the fignals or to the voice, the ftick is
thrown at them; the recovery of it requires the
greateft addrefs, on account of the rapidity, and is
one of the principal proofs of fkill in the conductor.
The .Kamtfchadales are wonderfully adroit at this
exercife. In general, the dexterity with which they
managed their fledges was aftonifhing. It requires no
{mal} practice for a ftranger to ride: in them ; and it
coft M. de Lefleps many overturns, and many days,
before he could habituate himfelf to the motion, fo
as to travel with perfect fafety. The common way
of fitting in a fledge is fideways, like a lady on
horfeback. You may alfo fit afiride ; but the great
point, as a grace, is to be able to ftand on one leg;
and it is worth feeing thofe that are expert in ‘this
attitude. As foon as M. de Leffeps could drive, he
would have no other carriage, but frequently took
rides in his fledge, and fometimes went hunting ;
at.which fport, when he had learned to walk on t
fnow as well as to drive, he became very’ fuccefsful.
Before the fnow is fufficiently frozen, the fledge fre-
quently finks into it, and then you are obliged to
get out and walk; for which purpofe, rackets
made of thin board, fix or cight inches wide, and
four feet long, are faftened to the foles of your feet
with leather thongs ; the front of them turn up like
fkates, and the bottom is covered with the fkin of
the fea-wolf, or rein-deer. |
The travelling fledge differs from the former, by
having a kind of clofe coach fixed to it. This is a
carriage called verock in Ruffia, where it is common.
Thé infide of M. de Lefieps’ was lined with bear’s
fkin, and the outfide covered with the fkin of the
fea-wolf, |
The difeafes found in Kamtfchatka by M. de Lef-
feps were the fmall-pox, or rather the rémains of it,
as
12 TRAVELS FROM
as it had only made its appearance in the years 176;
and 1768, when it was introduced by a failor belong.
‘ing to a Ruffian veffel bound to the eaftern iflands.
It was then very fatal, and, what is ‘very ‘extraordi.
nary, has not beén known fince. In the year i720 it
broke out in the northern part of Kamtichatka, but
did not reach fo far as the peninful:. The venereal
difeafe was there, and though feldom cured, it /hap-
pily was not common. ‘The feurvy was but: feldom
feen, but confumptions were frequent; and boils, tu-
mours; abfceffes, and wens, were very common. The
only cure for thefe was incifion or extirpation, which
was performed with a‘knife, and fometimes a fharp
flone. By this we may judge that the art of furgery
was not far advanced ; the progrefs of medicine had
not been greater. Formerly forcery prevailed, and
‘empirics, or pretended magicians, called chamans,
lived upon the credulity of the innocent Kamfcha-
dales, But the number of victims greatly exceeding
that of recovered» patients, the impofture was difco-
vered, and the chaman funk into difrepute and obli.
vion. It would be well. if the Englifh would open
their eyes in this refpect, nor fuffer themfelves to be
any longer abufed by the grofs ignerance and impu-
dence of noftrum-mongers, who are fhamefully al-
lowed to infeft the metropolis, and almoft every part
of the kingdom. ‘The Kamtfchatdales had one gene-
ral remedy in great repute for almoft all difeafes,
which was a root called bear’s-root, fteeped in brandy.
The bear having been feen to eat and to roll upon
this herb when wounded, it was fuppofed to poffefs
fome healing quality, but of this M. de Lefleps had
no opportunity of making experiment.
The women of Kamtfchatka feldom have more
than ten children, and very rarely any after the age of
forty. They give fuck, in point of time, as whim
directs; and there were inftances of children being
nourifhed by the brealt till they were four or five
years
years old.
men’s ftre
nor the
Ruffians.
The C
by the R
were no ©
tized, anc
on them I
to be una
but rathe
ther” good
thought c
which de
attributes
opportuni
may not |
to fee-a K
The qual
great, no
are all un
at Nijene
bifhop of
ferred, an
They |
fchatka ;
Vercknei
may be a
Koriacs.
iflands, <
the villas
Koriaki,
retik. ‘I
oftrogs:d
the Kuri
twenty C
or rector
about ei
767
D ng-
nds,
brdi-
2 it
but
real
ap-
om
. tue
The
hich
Narp
gery
had
and
ans,
cha-
din
tan
obli-
pen
o be
ypu.
r al.
part
ene-
afes,
andy.
pon
flefs
had
10re
e of
him
ing
five
ears
KAMTSCHATKA. 13
years ‘old... Hence M. de Lefleps judges of the wo-
men’s ftrength of EE neither they
nor the men -were obferved to live longer than the
Rufhans.
The Chriftian religion had been introduced here
by the Ruffians, but the inhabitants of this peninfula
were no otherwife Chriftians than having: been bap-
tized, and were far from fulfilling the duties impofed
on them by that facrament. They feemed, indeed,
to be unacquainted withthe rudiments of Chriftianity,
but rather followed the: irapulfe ofinclination;: whe-
ther good or bad. Religion appeared only:to be
thought of from motives of convenience or interet;
which defect in point of inftruétion, M. de Lefleps
attributes to the ignorance of the:priefts, who have no
opportunity of profound, ftudy ; thoughthis, perhaps,
may not be thought neceflary, as it is not uncommon
to fee-a Kamt{chatdale exercifing that dignified office.
The qualifications of the clergy, therefore, cannot be
great, nor their examination for orders fevere.. They
are all under the authority of a high prieft, refident
at Nijenei, who is himfelf fubordinate to the Arch-
bifhop of Irkoutfk, by whom alone ordination is cen-
ferred, and from whom every ‘appointment iffues.
They reckon eight principal churches in Kamt-
fchatka; Paratounka, Bolcheretfk, Jehinfk, Tiguil,
Vercknei, Klutcheftfkaia, and two at Nijenei: to thefe
may be added that at Ingiga, in the country of the
Keriacs. Seven oftrogs, or villages, with the Kuriles
iflands, compofe the diftriét or parifh of Paratounka,;
the village of this name, Saint Peter and Saint Paul,
Koriaki, Natchikin, Apatchin, Malkin, and Bolche-
retfk. The number of parifhioners contained in thefe
oftrogs does not exceed four hundred ; and taking in
the Kuriles iflands, they compute fix hundred and
twenty Chriftians. The Emprefs allows the curate
or rector of Paratounka a falary of eighty roubles,
about eighteen pounds fterling, and twenty oud
ë equa
14 TRAVELS FROM
equal to thirty-three: pounds,: of rye flour. He has
therefore no tythes, but receives alms, and other
emoluments attached to his church, that is to fay,
furplice fees, which are demanded according to the
abilities of the parifhioners. | Ae à
The only impoft to which the Kamtfchatdales are
fubject, is an annual tribute paid to Ruffia in. furs,
Every head of a family is obliged to furnith for himfelf,
and for each of his children, a certain quantity of
fkins, equivalent to the amount of his impofition,
This method of paying a poll-tax muft produce a
large revenue to the crown, judging only by the num.
ber of fables fupplied from this province, which is
eftimated:at more than four thoufand. The toyon,
or magiftrate of each oftrog, gathers the impofts,
which he remits immediately to the treafurer of the
Crown ; firft giving to every Kamfchatdale a receipt
for the amount of his capitation, who takes care to
mark every fkin he delivers with a feal, or fome other
token. : ast
The: current coins are a piece of gold called an im.
perial, worth ten roubles, a rouble, and a half rouble ;
a very few filver coins of lefs value, but neither cop.
per nor paper money are known here. You find a
great quantity of old filver coins in the time of Peter I.
Catherine I. and ‘Elizabeth, of which a branch of
commerce might be made, as the filver is purer and
more valuable than the common money. _ .
The pay of the foldiers or coffacs is fifteen roubles
a year. ‘The officers, on account of their being fent
to fo diftant a country, receive a double pay.
Since the year 1784, when the department of
Kamtfchatka was re-united to that of Okotfk, the
chiefs and officers of the different oftrogs in that pe-
ninfula have been under the order of the commandant
of Okotfk, and fubjeét to the judicial decifions of that
town; all of whom again are fubordinate to the gover-
_ nor-general refiding at Irkoutfk, The officer com-
| manding
manding :
fchatka, w
ment of NV
No repd
different o
periors, w
ther than !
neceflary
nick, an i
to vifit . the
year, to fes
among the
cuftoms o
It was in t
M. Schma
feps. Th
as in Eng
teftamenta
fcrupuloufl
among the
liance wit
quent mar
the end of
The pu
fchatka, a
prefs. Fo
the natives
now entire
ficient eith
M. de L
the Kamtfc
tural. Th
to every of
other.
Novemb
of the cold
frequent te
vail in the
4
KAMTSCHATKA, — 19
manding at Bolcheretfk, once the capital of Kamt<
fchatka, was now merely a ferjeant, under the appoint
ment of M. Kaflof.... : Fi. Las doll
No report was made by the commandants .of the
different oftrogs, nor by inferiot officers to their fu-
periors, whofe authority did not extend feparately far-
ther than their. own peculiar diftriéts ; which made it
neceflary for the Emprefs to appoint a capitan-ifprau-
nick, an infpector-general, whofe bufinefs it fhould be
to vifit.the Kamtfchadale towns and villages every
year, to fee that good order and peace was maintained
among them ; and above all, that the manners and
cuftoms of Ruffia were obferved as much as poflible.
It was in the difcharge of this important office that
M. Schmaleff had ‘hitherto accompanied. M. de Lef=
feps. The property of the Kamtichadales defcends,
as in England, to the next heir; that is, in cafe of
teftamentary failure, the rights of which are moft
fcrupuloufly obferved.. Divorce is not permitted:
among them. The Ruffians appear to court their al-
liance with no other motive than hoping, that by fre«
quent marriages the race of the natives may, before
the end of the prefent generation, be obliterated.
The punifhment of death is abolifhed in Kamt-
fchatka, as in all the dominions belonging to the Em-
prefs, Formerly the Ruflians, accufed of harrafling
the natives, were condemned to the knowt, a torture:
now entirely laid afide ; and whipping is thought fuf.
ficient either for {mall or capitai offences.
M. de Leffeps found great difficulty in pronouncing
the Kamtfchadale language, which is hard and gut-
tural. There is befides a dialect and accent peculiar
to every oltrag, even to thofe villages neareft each
other. eek ? ae t
November was now arrived, when the intenfenefs
of the cold, the extreme dépth of the fnow, and the
frequent tempefts, or rather hurricanes, which pre.
vail in the months of November, December, and Ja.
nuary,
16 TRAVELS FROM’
nuary, and which threaten the traveller. with the moft
imminent danger, ftill-kept M. de Leffeps prifoner at
Bolcheretfk; impatient as both he and M. Kafloff
wereito continue their route. But the refleétion that
it. would'not only be hazardous, but highly repre-
henfible to truft fuch important difpatches as thofe of
M. de Leffeps to the threats of fo rigorous a climate,
ferved to pacify him, and inclined him ‘to yield to
the intreaties and advice of M. Kafloff and of the of-
ficers in his fuire. M. Kafloff gave him alfo a certi-
ficate, juftifying his abode at Bolcheretfk, by detailing
the caufes of its neceflity. The gales of wind, how-
ever, having ceafed by the fifteenth of January, they
then haftily prepared for their departure, which was
fixed for the 25th of that month.
They provided themfelves, as well as they were
able, with brandy, beef, rye flour and oatmeal. A
great number‘of loaves was made for them, of which
a part was kept for the beginning of their journey,
and the others were cut into thin flices, and dried
in an oven like bifcuit. ‘The remainder of the flour
was put into facks as a referve in cafe of neceffity.
M. Kafloff had ordered as many dogs to be affem-
bled as poflible, and they came in troops from the
neighbouring villages. The only embarraffment was
how to carry provifion for them, of which there was
abundance. It had been determined to fet out at day-
break, but the baggage was found fo confiderable,
that, notwithflanding the multitude of hands employed
in loading the fledges, it was night before they were
announced as ready. No day had ever appeared fo
long ; and fo vexed were they at the delay, that they
would not wait till the next day, but flew to the
fledges, and were out of Bolcheretfk in an inftant.
. They fet off at feven o’clock by moon-light, which
was rendered more vivid by the brilliancy of the
fnow. It was a fcene really worth defcribing. Ima-
gine then an immenfe cavalcade of thirty-five fledges,
Apatchin
exclufive |
exclufive
cheretfk,
fledges, f
fome wer
of which
rode a fe
command
nal from
by about
fpeed.
that of
interrupte
fufed.
and the je
was who
other to ¢
felves enc
with env
ftruggle
turned, 2
mours of
dogs ftru
courfe, a
hallooing
which ic
ftand one
In ord
de Leffep
common
ing himf
him, Fo
de Lefler
had been
whofe at
Comman
which is
Vou. |
KAMTSCHATKA. yale 17
exclufive of thofe belonging to the inhabitants of Bol-
cheretfk, who had undertaken to‘fee.them as far as
‘Apatchin. The greater part of thefe were common
fledges, fuch as have been already defcribed; and
fome were clofe carriages, called verocks or kibicks,
of which kind M. de Leffeps’ was one. In the firft
rode a ferjeant, named Kabechoff, charged with the
command and guidance of the proceflion. On a fig-
nal from him, away went the fledges in a line, drawn
by about three hundred dogs of equal ardour and
fpeed. M. de Leffeps’ verock had thirty-feven dogs,
that of M. Kafloff forty-five, But foon the order was
interrupted, the line was broken, and became con-
fufed. A noble emulation animated the conduétors,
and the journey refembled a perfe& chariot race. It
was who could drive fafteft; no one would fuffer an-
other to get before him, nor would the dogs them-
felves endure fuch an affront. They preffed forward
with envy, fought for the honour of precedence, the
ftruggle became general, and the fledges were over-
turned, at the rifk of being torn to pieces. The cla-
mours of thofe who were overturned, the cries of
dogs ftruggling, the yelping of fuch as kept up the
courfe, and the loud and continued chattering and
hallooirig of the guides, added ftill to the diforder, in
which it was nearly impoflible to know or to under-
ftand one another.
In order to enjoy the tumult more at his eafe, M.
de Leffeps quitted his own fledge, and mounted a
common one; in which, befides the pleafure of driv-
ing himfelf, he had that of feeing what pañled round
him. Fortunately no accident happened to make M.
de Leffeps repent his curiofity. ‘This embarraffment
had been chiefly occafioned by the concourfe of people,
whofe attachment induced them to accompany the
Commandant, as has been obferved, to Apatchin,
which is forty-four werfts, about twenty miles, from
Vou. IL. (a) Bolcheretik,
18 . TRAVELS FROM
Bolcheretfk, and whither the whole company arrived
about midnight. |
A few moments after their arrival’ a tempeftuous
wind.arofe, that would have incommoded them greatly
on the roads It continued the remaining part of the
night, and all the next day, fo as to put them under
the neceffity of flaying at Apatchin.
Here they exchanged the laft adieu with the inha-
bitants of Bolcheretik, who exprefled great regret at
parting with M, Kafloff, as well as great concern for
the welfare of M. de Leffeps, at which he was the
more furprized, thinking he had perceived that im-
preffions had been made on them to the difadvantage
of the French nation. Thefe impreffions he attributed
to the treatment they had experienced from the fa-
‘mous Beniowfky, a reputed Frenchman, who in
the year 1769 ferved tn Poland under the colours
of the confederates, and became extremely formi-
dable to the Ruffians as well as to the Polonefe.
‘Faken prifener at length, and banifhed to Kamt-
fchatka, he found means of raifing a troop of exiles,
‘with whom he proceeded to Bolcheretfk, where he is
faid to have committed: feveral enormities. Of a
charaéter fo extraordinary, no lefs than doubtful, it
‘is not poffible, in a trac like the prefent, to give any
notion, either with regard to praife. or cenfure. His
hiftory is publithed, and is worth the infpedion of
the. curious, at leaft in fome degree.
The 29that day-light M; Schmaleff quicted M. de
Lefleps, and fet off to ‘Tiguil, on the weftern coatt,
to complete the vifit of his government. He had in
view. alfo the procuring provifions for M. de Leffeps
and his party, which he fent to them, and fome time
after rejoined them. :
Abnoft at the famé time, M: de Lefleps and M.
Kafloff, with:a reduced retinue, l:ft Apatchin ; and
after. going along the Bolchaia.reka for feveral hours,
fometimes
fometime
of fteep :
banks o
about’ tw
werfts dif
ed to ft
The villa
{cribed, «
balagans.
traia, anc
The fe 3
expeditio
entirely f
cuit thro
depth, a1
were exc
conftrain
wards th
from Ga
to afford
forty-five
After ]
toyon, the
a diftanc
plifhed ir
way was
and the {
this, witl
Leffeps t
overthro
The k
Poufchin
The onl;
that the
but only
aperture
order to
the fmol
KAMTSCHATKA. 19°
fometimes through a foreft, and fometimes:at the foot |
of fteep and barren mountains, which rife from the
banks of that river, they croffed the Biftraia, and
about’ two o'clock arrived at Malkin, fixty-four
werfts diftant from Apatchin. Here they were oblig.
ed to flop to reft the dogs, having no frefh ones.
The village of Malkin. refembles thofe already de:
{cribed, containing five or fix ifbas and about fifteen
balagans. It is fituated on the border of the Bif-
traia, and furrounded with high mountains.
The following day they went on to Ganal, not fo:
expeditioufly as-they had wifhed. The Biftraia was not
entirely frozen, which obliged them to make a cir-
cuit through woods, where the fnow being of a great
depth, and foft, the dogs funk to their bellies, and
were exceflively fatigued. They were thus once more
conftrained to abandon their route, and to return to-
wards the Biftraia, which they regained ten werfts
from Ganal, and now found the ice fufficiently thick
to afford them an eafy paflage to that oftrog, which is
forty-five werfts from Maikin.
After api an indifferent night at the houfe of the
toyon, they fet forward before day-break for Poufchiné,
a diftance ‘of ninety werfts, and which they accom-
plifhed in fourteen hours ; but the latter part of the
way was extremely painful; the road was not cleared,
and the fledges funk two or three feet in the fnow ;
this, with the frequency of the jolts, made M. de
Leffeps think himfelf happy in efcaping with but one
overthrow. | i
The Kamtfchatka runs at the foot of this oftrog of
Poufchiné, which is fomething larger than Ganal.
The only thing M. de Lefleps remarked here was,
that the ifbas, or winter dwellings, had no chimnevs,
but only a hole in the roof, like the balagans. | This
aperture is frequently clofed by means of a trap, in
order to confine the heat; the confequence is, that
the fmoke fpreads round the chamber, and feldom
1 (8 2) having
20: TRAVELS FROM
having time:to éfcape thoroughly, the whole interior
ia lined with foot, equally offenfive to the fight and
fmell. This difguft is increafed. by the exhalation
atifing from a difmal lamp, which ferves to light the
whole building, and which is nothing more than a
hollow flone, with a piece of linen rolled up for a
wick, and filled with the greafe of the fea-wolf, or of
other anima's. |
The in! abitants of thefe wretched hovels are not
lefs cilgufting. In one place is a group of women
fhining with greafe, wallowing, on the ground on a
heap of rags; othe:s fuckling their children, which
are half naked, and bedaubed with filth from head to
foot, or devouring with them fcr ps of :aw fifh, and
fomctimes putrid. Others you fee in an undrefs
equally dirty, lying upon bear’s-fkims, chattering all
at once, or perhaps occupied in fome houfehold work,
waiting the return of their hutbands. Happily,' the
hov-fes of thé toyons were made as clean as poffible
for the reception of M. Kafloff, who had always the
ea of allowing M. de Lefleps to lodge with
im.
Very early the firft of February, they left Pouf-
chiné, where they had flept; and could travel
only thirty four werfts. The farther they went
the mo e they were obftruéted by the {now. M. de
Leffeps’ two conductors had enough to do to keep
the fleige upright, and to prevent its getting out of
the road. They were alfo obliged to ute great efforts
in encouraging th: dogs, who often ftopped, in fpite
of the blows beftowed on them with as much profu-
fion as addrefs. T: efe poor animals, whofe ftrength
was ing: nceivable, had all the trouble in the world to
difengage themfelves from the fnow, which covered
them as faft as they fhook it off. Indeed, both guides
and dogs hid a moft arduous tafk. The oftrog of
Charom, the boundary of this day’s labour, is fituated
on the river Kamtichatka. There they paffed the
( night,
fincere :
‘M. iv
night, :
Kamfch
and whi
compare
very cc
houfes.
try abor
the inh
tage. ‘1
conftrué
terior. |
in a hot
In thi
nate Iva
having :
Saint Pe
ted then
been to
them to
‘arrival, !
ing gai’:
paft fuff
may not
of him.
criminal
vereft a
KAMTSCHATKA. 21
night, and before break of day fet out for Vercknei-
Kamfchatka, which is thir: y-five werfts from Chirsm,
and which they reached in feven hours. Vercknei,
compared to the other villages they Had fen, was
very confiderable. It contained above a hundred
houfes. Its fituation was commodious, an! the coun-
try about it pleafant. The foil was very good, and
the inhabitants were beginning to turn it to advan-
tage. * Here was a church built of wood, not badly
conftraéted, though the infide did not equal the ex-
terior.’ A ferjeant, who held the command, dwelt
in a houfe belonging to Government. ~~"
In this village was alfo the refidence of the unfor-
nate Ivafchkin, who has already been mentioned as
having accompanied M. de Lefleps and his party from
Saint Peterand Saint Paul, and who had riow only quit-
ted them to advance to Vercknei, where his firft care had
been to have one of his oxen killed, which he begged
them to accept, as a token of gratitude. “Upon their
‘arrival, they went to his houfe, and found hin: drink.
ing gai'y with fome of his neighbours.” His joy was
fincere and open, like that of a man not fenfible of
paft fufferings, nor tired of his prefent fituation. It
may not be’ uninterefting to give fome little account
of him. . abies a
"M. Ivafchkin had not attained his twentieth year,
when the’ Emprefs Elizabeth made him a ferjeant of
cher guard of Préobrajenfkoi. He enjoyed ape
fome degree of credit at Court, and the free accefs
‘which his polt gave him to his Sovereign opened a
door to his ambition ; when all at once, he was not
‘only difgraced, and compelled to abandon the flatter-
ing hopes his fancy had fuggefted, but he had the far-
ther affliction of being treated as one of thé greateft
criminals: he received the knout, which is the fe-
vereft and moft infamous punifhment in Ruffia; he
had his ‘noftrils flit, and was banifhed for life to
Kamtfchatka. © ?
| (B 3) The
22 TRAVELS FROM
: “The extreme rigour of his fufferings for more than
twenty years is well known from the reports of the
Englifh; and he doubtlefs would have perifhed from
hunger, mifery, or defpair, but for the ftrength of his
mind and conftitution. The necellity of providing
fubfiftence,, forced him involuntarily to become natu-
ralized amongft the Kamtfchatdales, and , to adopt
their manner. of living. He was clothed like them,
and by hunting and fifhing not only abundantly fa-
” tisfed his own wants, but had a fuperfluity to fell,
fufficient to gain him many.comforts. The Ruffians
were ignorant of the caufe of fo fevere a punifhment,
fometimes attributing it to a mifunderftanding, or to
fome indifcreet words he might have uttered, for they
did not, know how to impute a crime to him.
It fhould appear that the pretended enormity of his
crime had been forgiven, by its having been propafed
to change the place of his exiles and to fend him to
Yakoutfk, a village that offered more refources of ufe
as well as amufement. : But this unhappy, man, who
was now ‘between fixty and fixty-five years, of age,
refufed to profit by fuch, indulgence, being unwilling,
as he faid, to make a farther fhow. of the jhideous
marks of his difgrace, or to blufh a fecond time for.
the horrid punifhment to which he had fubmitted.
He chofe rather to continue . with the Kamt{chadales,
having no other defire than to pals his few remaining
days in quiet, amongft thofe who knew his integrity,
and where he was able to retain till death that general
efteem and, friendfhip which he had hitherto enjoyed
with fo juft a title. )
_. The Count de la Péroufe, from the relation of the
Englifh; had a defire to fee this unfortunate gentle-
man; and, became infpired, from the firft moment,
with the moft lively intereft for him. .,He. received
him on board his hip and at his table, nor.did the
humanity, of this commander, end_ with, ‘compaflionat-
ing the misfortunes of M. Ivafchkin ; he took every
; means
means ¢
brances «
the Engl
feel for
From
M. de L
on for th
of Milko
way, the
fades, an
bited by
ployed i
account,
to the C
form a ft
gation of]
hundred
T{chigatc
a mill co
ufelefs, o
country \
Leffeps, :
pectation,
At Mil
a diftin&
in 1743,
Siberia, ;
purpofe «
the hopes
to the fa
rable flott
tirely fru
Govern
when one
gence of
and cattl
them, I
to pay, r
KAMTSCHATKA. 23
means of affuaging them, by leaving many remem-
brances of his abode there, fuch as would prove that
the Englifh were not the only ftrangers who could
feel for his unhappy lot.
From Vercknei, where their ftay was very fhort,
M. de Lefleps and his companion determined to go
on for the night to Milkovaia-Derwna, or the village
of Milkoff, which was diftant fifteen werfts,. On their
way, they pafled a large field, furrounded with pali-
fades, and farther on, a zaimka, or hamlet, inha-
bited by coffacs, or Ruffian foldiers, who were em«
ployed in the cultivation of the land on Government
account. They had four and twenty: horfes belonging
to the Crown, which ferved for labour as well as to
form a ftud eftablifhed in this place, for the propa
gation of this ufeful and fcarce animal. About five
hundred yards from this hamlet, which was called
Tfchigatchi, upon an arm of the Kamtfchatka, was
a mill conftruéted of wood, but of no fize, and now
ufelefs, on account of the froft. The foil of the
country was good; and the coflacs informed M. de
Leffeps, that the laft harveft had. exceeded their ex-
pectation, two pouds of corn having produced ten.
At Milkoff M. de Lefleps was furprized by finding
a diftin& colony of peafants, which had been felected,
in 1743, from among the hufbandmen of Ruffia and
Siberia, and had been fent into this country for the
purpofe of making experiments in agriculture, with
the hopes of inducing the natives to turn their minds
to the fame neceflary employment. But. the infupe-
rable floth and indolence inherent in Kamtfchatka, en-
tirely fruftrated this wife and benevolent intention of
Government; and this was the more deplorable,
when one could not but perceive the care and dili-
gence of thefe colonifts, apparent in their habitations
and cattle, and the air of content that reigned among
them, Each man having no more than a capitation
to pay, reaped in abundance the fruits of his exer-
1e | (3 4) tions,
24 TRAVELS FROM
exertions, from a fertile foilandplentifulharveft, Their
chief was a Starofte, appointed by admininiftration,
and chofen from among the old men of the village,
His charge was a general fuperintendance, to ftimu-
late negligence, and to encourage activity and zeal.
M. de Leffeps being defirous of paffing a day with
the Baron of Steinheil, formerly infpector-general of
Kamtfchatka, and who lived at Machoure, left Mil-
koff four and twenty hours before M. -Kafloff, that
he might not delay him; and taking a common
fledge, for expedition fake, he paffed through the
village of Kirgan, and at two in the afternoon entered
that of Machouie, thirty-feven werfts farther, not
without having fuffered feverely from the cold, and
from the great fatigue of managing the fledge him-
felf. - His drefs on this occafion merits defcription,
and muft be given in his own words. "|
‘ Ufually he wore but one fimple parque or frock of
deer-fkin, dnd a fur cap, which occafionally covered
his ears and a part of his cheeks. When the cold be-
came mote piercing, he added two kouklanki, a kind
of larger frock, and made of thicker fkin. ' The hair
of one of thefe was infide, of the other outwards. In
exceffive cold, he put over all thefe a third kouklanki,
thicker ftiil, made of dog-fkin, the hairy fide of which
is always within, and the exterior, or fmooth fice,
painted red. To the front of thefe kouklankis was
fixed a fort of bib to defend the face from the wind.
Behind, each of them had a hood, lined with fur,
which hung upon his fhoulders; or often, all the
three, one in another, were drawn over his cap. His
neck was guarded by a cravat of fable, or the tail of
a fox, called’ ocheinik, and his chin by a band of
fable alfo, faftened to the top of the head. The fore-
head, being a part very fufceptible of cold; was co-
vered with a fillet of otter-fkin or fable, under the cap.
His fur breeches made him hotter than all the reft of
his drefs, complicated as it was. He had double
| gaters
. dinary
aters of
amfchat
baffi or b
of tonnc
property
tions, aft
came wet
trating,
fledge, h
exchange
fur ftoc
ounti.
fides wit
frozen i
however,
for fever
A few
vered a
fmoke, |
with a w
fchatka.
very flen
Machou
the even
Befor
trog of |
in the pe
to twent
All th
men, ar
they hay
priefts, ¢
thing bu
they reg
worfhip
perately
abftain
making
KAMTSCHATKA. 25
aters of deer-fkin, with hair on both fides, called, in
Kamfchatka tchigi. His legs were then put into tor-
baffi or boots of deer-fkin, furnifhed infide with foles
of tonnchitcha, a very foft herb, or grafs, that has the
property of retaining heat. In fpite of thefe precau-
tions, after travelling two or three hours, his feet be.
came wet from perfpiration, or by the fnow’s pene-
trating, fo that if he ftood ftill a moment in the
fledge, he perceived them frozen. In the evening he
exchanged thefe gaters, or fpatterdafhes, for a pair of
fur ftockings, made of deer-fkin ‘or argali, called
ounti. | With all this care, and covering his face be-
fides with a handkerchief, M. de Lefleps’ cheeks were
frozen in half an hour, fo as to drive him to the or.
. dinary method of rubbing them with fnow, which,
however, did not prevent his feeling éxquifite pain
for feveral days. | rea bake] / i
A few werlts from Kirgan, M.de Leffeps difco-
vered a volcano, which poured out a column of thick
fmoke, but no flame. He met alfo, near Machoure,
with a wood of fir trees, the firft he had feen in Kam-
fchatka. They were tolerably bufhy and ftraight, but
very flender. The whole day of the 4th he pañled at
Machoure with M: Steinheil, and was joined there in
the evening by M. Kaflof. … . be
Before the ravages made by the fmall-pox, the of-
trog of Machoure was one of the moft confiderable
in the peninfula, but this had reduced the inhabitants
to twenty families.
Allthe Kamtfchadales of this village, men and wo-
men, are chamans, or believers in forcery. Hence
they have an utter averfion to the popes, or Ruffian
priefts, confidering them as perfons who meditate no-
thing but the extinction of idolatry; on which account
they regard them as enemies. ‘They offer a fecret
worfhip to their god Koutka, and addrefs him intem-
perately upon every occafion. Before:the chace they
abftain from wathing, and moft cautioufly avoid
making any fign of the crofs, which they app
wou
26 TRAVELS FROM
mould be an effectual: bar, to, their taking any thing,
Koutka; however, is invoked, and an offering made
to him: of the firft animal that is caught, perfuaded
that by this act of devotion fuccefs is infured. To this
deity; their new-born children aré confecrated, and
are thus deftined, from: the cradle, to become cha.
mans.: The veneration, indeed, which inthis village
is held for necromancers,and the extravagancies with
which thefe perfons :feed the credulity of their coun-
trymen, is not to be conceived. It is true, at prefent,
they do not:profefs their art openly.. Their habits
ar¢ no longer decorated ;with myfterious rings, nor
other fymbolical figures of metal, which ftunned one
with their: jingle upon every. motion of the body.
_ They-have renounced: alfo a kind of kettle, called
douben, and ftill in ufe iat Yakoutfk, on which they
beat in their pretended enchantments, or to announce
théir arrival. ‘In fhort all’ magical inftruments are
abandoned. |
With regard to the ceremonies of their:affemblies,
which they fu: hold privately, figure to. yourfelf a
circle of fpetators, fixed with ftupid attention upon
the magician or forcerefs, who duddenly begins to
fing, or rather to utter, piercing. notes without. mea.
fure or fignification. At length; the obedient crowd
join in the faihe tone, andform:a:concert imfupport-
ably diflonant. ‘The chaman is gradually animated,
and begins to dance to the confufed accents of the au-
ditory, who become exhaufted by.their exceflive fer.
vour.and admiration ; whilft the dance grows more
lively, according to the degree:of the prophetic fpirit
with: which this minifter of the, god Koutka pretends
to be endued,, Now, like the Débit pricitefs on the
tripod, he rolls his hagard furious eyes; all his mo-
tions are convulfed, his mouth is drawn awry, and
his limbs ftiffen. In fhort, there! is no contortion nor
grimace which: he does not invent and execute, to the
great delight of the by-ftanders, After playing cu
ta tricks
tricks. for
he beco
nor 'trani
full of +
going to
feize the
tion of t]
length, it
the mou
ever con
as the €
accompa
violent
tidings
his gelt
M, de
reafon,
fect of Q
hibit an
if not in
who ofte
encies, t
the-nam
may be
tention
regulari
mented
with the
AtN
truth of
from a!
fent alo
fituatiot
was the
fchatka
of his j
on the
numbet
thing,
made
uaded
‘o this
» and
e cha.
illage
s with
coun-
efent,
habits
> nor
d one
body.
called
they
Junce
s are
blies,
(elf a
upon
ns to
mea -
rowd
port.
ated,
e au-
> fer-
more
pirit
ends
1 the
mo-
and
nor
» the
hefe
ivks
KAMTSCHATKA. 27
tricks. fome time, fuddenly he ftops, as: if infpired;:
he becomes perfectly calm, and; has no longer fury
nor tran{port ; it is the folemn recolle€tion of a man, |
full of the God who directs him, and who is now: -
going to fpeak by his voice. Surprize and trembling:
feize the affembly, who are at once filent, in expetta-
tion of the wonders about to be revealed to them. At
length, incoherent words.are heard, at intervals, fron
the mouth of this felf-made prophet, who utters what
ever comes into his: head, .and all which: is received
as the effeét of. infpiration.. ‘Commonly the orator
accompanies his jargon with a flood of tears, or with
violent fits of laughter; according to the good or bad,
tidings he has to +announce, whilft the expreffion of
his geftures vary conformably to his fenfations.
M. de Leffeps imagines, not without fome fhow: of
reafon, fome analogy between the chamans and the
fect of Quakers; who, in their conventicles, often ex-
hibit an unmeaning filence, bordering upon ftupidity,
if not infanity ; who have their convuliive ftarts, and
who often utter the wildeft abfurdities and inconfift-
encies, to which they do not fcruple profanely to affix
the-name of Divine :infpiration. In extenuation, it
may be faid, no doubt with great truth, that the in.
tention of the latter is ftriétly moral,.as the general
regularity of their lives evinces. And it is to be la-
mented that they do not mingle moreapparent reafon
with their facred profeffions. Hibs
At Machoure our travellers were confirmed in the
truth of a report which M. Kafloff had: betore received
from an engineer, named Bogenoff, who. had been
fent along the river of Pengina, to make choice of a
fituation for a town, and-to draw the plan of it.. He
was then to follow the weftern coaft of the Kamt-
fchatka as far as Tiguil, and to make :an exact chart
of his journey. On his arrival at Kaminoi, a village
on the borders of Pengina river, he met with a great
number of rebel Koriaés armed, who endeavoured to
prevent
28 TRAVELS FROM
prevent the completion of his miffiôn. Reports at
Machoure added, that they were fix hundred ftrong,
and that probably they would not fuffer M. de Left:
feps to continue his route. His fears of fo unfortunate
a delay were, however, foon diffipated by the arrival
of an exprefs meffenger to M. Kafloff, who had en.
countered no obftacle, and ‘who affured them every
thing was quiet, and that no impediment was to be
dreaded. On the sth, therefore, they quitted Ma.
choure, and travelling fixty-fix werfts upon the Kamt-
fchatka, the ice of which was perfe&ly fmooth and
folid, they reached Chapina by fun-fet, and the next
day got to Volbatchina, a village upon the Kamit.
fchatka, forty-four werfts from Chapina. Upon a
heath at fome diftance from Tolbatchina, they ob-
ferved three volcanos iffuing fmoke only. ::
At this village, M. de Leffeps having a ftrong de-
fire of vifiting Nijenei-Kamtfchatka, the capital of the
peninfula, quitted M. Kafloff, promifing to rejoin
him at Yelofki ; and travelling all night, arrived at
day-break at Kofirefski, a diftance of fixty-fix werfts.
Here he made no ftay, but to repair a trifling acci-
dent to his fledge, and went on to Ouchkoff; whence,
fometimes upon the Kamtfchatka,.and fometimes tra-
verfing extenfive heaths, he paffed the village of Kré-
ftoff;. and inftead of going to Khartchina, which was
M. Kaflotl’s route to Yelofki, took the road to Klu-
cheftfkaia, diftant from Kreftoff thirty werfts, and got
there at the fall of night. : os $
. The inhabitants of Klutchefskaia were all Siberian
peafants, from the neighbourhood of the Lena, and
fent into this country, fifty years back, to cultivate
the lands. The number of males did not exceed fifty,
the fmall-pox having been very fatal among them.
hefe labourers did not appear lefs happy than thofe :
near Vercknei-Kamtfchatka. Their harveft had been
good, and they ‘had feveral horfes, fome of which
belonged to the Crown. The oftrog is tolerably
large,
Jarge; fe
hundred
which la
the Ru
ter conft
Leffeps
ziness
lage, an
during
the hou
Four
hamlet
belong
The i
would
and lea
8th, he
night,
tance of
to Tche
fatisfact
which v
It fee
fteeples.
in a bal
round i
were fai
fmall, :
of bein
quent |
one in
the bou
ter of t
with p:
clofes t
A fenti
houfe ¢
rts at
rong,
Lef.
unate
rrival
é CMe
every
KAMTSCHATKAS 29
Jarge; feparated into two parts, at a diftance of four
hundred yards. It extends from weft to eaft, towards
which latter part ftands the church, built of wood, in
the Ruffian tafte, ‘The houfes were, in general, bets
ter conftructed, and much cleaner than any M. de
Leffeps had yet feen, and there were fpacious maga:
zines. The Kamtfchatka runs at the foot of the vil-
lage, and in that {pot is never te frozen. But
during Summer, it frequently overflows even into
the houfes, though they are placed on an eminence.
Four werfts to the eaftward of the church is a {mall
hamlet of coffacs, or foldier-labourers, whofe harveits
belong to Government. news .
The impatience of M. de Leffeps to fee Nijenei,
would not fuffer him to ftay long at Klutchefskaia 3
and leaving it, therefore, the fame evening of the
8th, he paffed through Kamini in the middle of the
night, and before day-light was at Kamokoff, a difs
tance of forty werfts. ‘Twenty-two more carried him
to Tchokofskoi or Tchoka, and by noon he had the
fatisfaction of entering Nijeini, the appearance of
which was neither ftriking nor agreeable. .
It feemed a mere clutter of houfes, topped by three
fteeples, fituated upon the border of the Kamtfchatka,
in a bafon formed by a chain of mountains rifing
round it, but at fome diftance. All the houfes, which
were faid to be a hundred and fifty, were of wood,
fmall, without’ tafte, and had then the difadvantage
of being buried in heaps of {now made by the fre-
quent hurricanes. There were two ill built churches ;
one in the town, with two fteeples ; the other within
the boundary of the fort, which is nearly in the cen-
ter of the town, and is a tolerably large fquare, fenced
with palifades. Befides the church, the fquare en.
clofes the magazines, the arfenal, and guard-houfe,
A fentinel guards the entrance day and night. The
houfe of Major Orleankoff, the commandant, is near
the
80 TRAVELS FROM
the fortrefs, and, in:point of fize and tafte, is no bet.
ter than any other.
M. de heffeps met here with another: miferable
exile, named Snafidoff, who had undergone the fame
punifhment as Ivafchkin, and, like him, had been ba.
nifhed to Kamtfchatka fince the year 1744.
The moment of M. de Leffeps’ atrival, Major
Orleankoff fent an officer to wait on him, who was
followed by many of the principal officers of the
town, each in turn offering him his fervices. On
returning thefe civilities, he found the Commandant
bufy in preparing a feaft he was to give the next day,
on the occafion of a marriage between ‘a Polonefe in
the Ruffian fervice and the niece of the Protopope,
or Archbifhop. !
+ To this ceremony M. de Leffeps was of courfe in-
_ Vited, and was particularly ftruck with the folemnity
of it. . Diftinétion of rank was obferved with the
moft fcrupulous delicacy, and a certain air of*cén-
ftraint ran through all the compliments and common
civilities, that threatened more wearifomenefs than
pleafantry. The repaft was extremely magnificent
for the country. Befides other difhes, it confifted of
a variety of foups, accompanied with cold meat, of
which they eat a great quantity. Roaft. meat and
paftry furnifhed a fecond courfe.’ But there was more
appearance of profufion than of fenfuality. The li-
quors were compofed of various indigenous fruits,
boiled up and mixed with ‘French brandy : but the
brandy of the country, made of the Slatkaia-trava, or
{weet herb, was preferred, and frequently handed
round. It had an agreeable aromatic flavour, and
they were more accuftomed to it, as thinking it lefs
unwholefome than that extraëted from corn. The
guefts infenfibly fell into good humour. Reafon could
not long withitand the vapours of fo intoxicating a
beverage, and foon the groifeft jollity prevailed. ‘To
this
this noif
well reg
danced
The ball
fire-work
off himfe
fatisfacto
part of t
ment, we
fixed wit
explofion
amufing;
fures of t
M. de Le
gave an
fire-work
Nijenei, v
white bee
a truly v
lively and
and affect
There :
belongs t!
takes cog
fiding me
under th
of the to
ferved, a
give an a
mandant
A circ
Lefleps, 2
who, dui
ther fron
ployed ‘ir
One a
barked, :
country,
KAMTSCHATKA. 31
this noify and fplendid feaft fucceeded a ball tolerably
well regulated. The company: was very gay, and
danced Ruffian and: Polifh dances tillthe evening.
The ball was then followed by an exceedingly pretty
fire-work, made by M: Orléankoff, and which he let
off himfelf. It was not confiderable, but perfectly
fatisfactory. The furprife and rapture of the greater
part of the {pectators, at this part of the entertain-
ment, was inconceivable. They became like ftatues,
fixed with admiration, and {creamed in chorus at every
explofion. Their regret, when it was over, was as
amufing; and they went away lamenting thatthe plea-
fures of the day were at an end. The day following
M. de Leffeps was invited to the Archbifhop’s, who
gave an entertainment like the paft, excepting the
fire-work. The Archbifhop, whofe refidence is at
Nijenei, was an old man, {till brifk enough. A large
white bez: 1 defcended upon his breaft, and gave him
a truly venerable appearance. His converfation was
lively and pleafant, calculated to gain him the refpect
and affection of his people. d'
There are two tribunals at Nijeneï, to one of which
belongs the bufinefs of the adminiftration, the other
takes cognizance of all mercantile difputes. The pre-
fiding magiftrate is a fort of Burgo-mafter, who aéts
under the orders of the Gorodnitch or Commandant
of the town. Both thefe jurifdiétions, it has been ob-
ferved, are fubordinate to the tribunal at Okotfk, and
give an account of all their tranfaétions to the Com-
mandant of that town. :
A circumftance that particularly interefted M. de
Lefleps, at Nijenei, was his meeting with nine Japanefe,
who, during the laft fummer, had been: brought 'thi-
ther from the ‘Aléutieñne Ifles in a Ruffian fhip em-
ployed'in the trade 6fotter-fkins. a
One of thefe Japanefe told him, that he had em-
barked, with his companions, in a veffel of their own
country, forthe moft fouttiward of the Kurile Hlands,.
with
32 TRAVELS FROM
with a view of trading with the inhabitants: They
followed the coaft, and:were not very far, from it,
when they were overtaken by a violent gale of wind,
which carried them to a great diltance, entirély out
of their knowledge. According to his account; which
M. de Leffeps thought fufpicious, they were beating
about at ‘fea nearly fix months without feeing land.
At length the Aléutienne Ifles made their appearance ;
and, in a tranfport of joy, they refolved to make for
them, totally unconfcious whither they were going.
They accordingly caft anchor near thofe iflands, and
a boat conveyed them on fhore. They there found
Roflians, who offered to go with them to affift in
unlading the veffel, and to place it in fafety. Either
from diftruft, or really thinking that the next day
would be time enough, the Japanefe rejected their
offer. They foon, however, repented their negli:
gence: that very night the wind became fo violent,
as to drive the fhip afhore. This was not perceived
till day-light, when they had-great difficulty to fave
the fmalleft part of the cargo, and fome remains of
the veffel, which’ had been built entirely of cedar.
The Ruffians, who had already received them fo kind-
ly, ufed'every means to make them forget their lofs.
They confoled them to the utmoft of their power,
and at length prevailed on them to accompany them
to Kamtfchatka, when they fhould return thither.
The Japanefe added, that their number had been much
greater, but that many of their companions had fallen
victims to the fatigues at fea, and, fince that, to the
rigour of the climate.
The relater of this little hiftory appeared to have a
marked fuperiority over the other eight. He, as he faid,
was a merchant, and the others merely failors under
his command. Certain it is, that they fhowed a fin-
gular attachment and refpe& towards him. If he was
fick, or gave any fymptoms of uneafinels, they ver”
penetrated with grief; and regularly twice a day, vas
o
of them
friendfhi
a day wi
greateft
thing.
had noth
hair like
of his he
Though
were alw
in the CI
a pinch ¢
plenifhin,
equally g
tolerable
eating,
in China
The g
him, was
Japanefe
thinner, :
he told N
per, was r
the midd
cups, pla
nifhed.
Having
M. de Le
M., Kaflo:
as he had
From N
werlts to
morning |
china, in
five leagu
the night,
evening a
M. Kaf
VoL.
KAMTSCHATKA;
of, them was fent to make enquiries after him. His:
friendfhip for them was as great ; for he never paffed
a day without, vifiting them in turn, and taking the
greateft care that they fhould not be in want of any
thing, The figure of this man, whofe name was Kodail,
had nothing remarkable in it. At firft he wore his
hair like the Chinefe, with a fingle lock on the middle
of his head, but he now fuffered it to grow generally.
Though, much affected by the cold, his neck and arms
were always uncovered. He was conftantly fmoking
in the Chinefe manner, that is, putting not more than
a pinch of tobacco into his pipe at a time, and fo re-
plenifhing it. His penetration and curiofity were
equally great. . He fpoke the Ruffian language with
tolerable eafe, was remarkable for fobriety, and, in
eating, made ufe.of two little fticks, as is the cuftom
in China... ;
The gold coin of this country, which he had with
him, was of an oval form, and very thin, marked with
Japanefe characters, The filver money was fquare,
thinner, and lighter than the gold, but was at Japan,
he told M. de Leffeps, of fuperior value. The cop-
per, was round, with a fquare hole pierced through
the middle. The lading of his fhip had been chiefly.
cups, plates, boxes, and other articles, highly var-
nifhed. |
Having pañled three days at Nijenei-Kamtfchatka,
M. de Leffeps.fet out on the 12th, in order to rejoin
M..Kafloff, whom he was fure of finding at Yelofki,
as he had. bufinefs to detain him there fome days.
From Nijenei M. de Lefleps went twenty-two
werfts to Ichoka, thence to Kamikoff, and the next
morning to Kaminoi. He then took the road to Kart-
china, in which he had to pafs three lakes, the laft
five leagues at leaft in circumference, There he pafled
the night, and quitting it at day-break, arrived in the
evening at Yelofki, a diftance of feventy werfts.
M: Kañloff's employment obliged them to remain
Vor. IL, (¢c) at
$4 TRAVELS FROM
at Yelofki five days longer, and early the roth they
continued their journey. Having gone fifty-four
wer(ts, a horrible tempeft, attended by whirlwinds,
which raifed the {now in clouds, made it impoffible
for them to proceed. The guides no longer knew
their way; fo as to keep the road, and propofed con-
duGing them to a wood not far off, which would af-
ford them fome kind of fhelter. ‘There was no alter.
native ; and waiting till all the fledges were come up,
for fear of any being loft or feparated, they gained
the wood about two hours after mid-day.
The firft care of the Kamfchadales was to hollow
out the fnow, which was fix feet deep; the others
brought wood, and in an inftant a fire was kindled,
and the kettle fet on. A light repaft, with fome
glaffes of brandy, foon revived the- company. At
night, each perfon was occupied in contriving his
bed, M. de Leffeps and M. Kafloff flept in their ve-
rocks, the only two carriages of the kind in the party.
The reft dug pits or holes in the fnow, which they
coverdd with fmall branches of the trees, and wrap-
ping themfelves up in their kouklanki's, with the
hood drawn ovet theit heads, went to reft very com-
fortably. The dogs were unharnefled, and tied to
the trees, and pañled the night upon the fnow as
ufual. |
The wind:having greatly fallen, they fet out before
day, and atrived at Ozernoi, thirty werfts diftant, by
ten o’clock, At this place the dogs were fo excef-
fively fatigued, they ftopped that day and night; in
hopes too that the wind, which after noon’ had in-
creafed fomewhat, would be ‘more fubfided.
: The oftrog of Ozernoi takes its name from a neigh-
bouring lake. ‘The river Ozernaia runs at the foot
of the village, but is not confiderable. There they
pafled the 21ft, and the 22d went on to Ouké,
twenty-fix werfts. One ifba was all they found at
Ouké, twelve balagans, and two yourts, or fubterra-
neous
neous h
and his
purpofe
Leavi
tance t
were in
They n
for fom
fuch he:
from th
tants to
At K
diftance
and twe
this pla
was fro
The ht
fort of «
fait wit
the fkin
could p
and fet
asth, 2
and kee
got to
they fle
At this
who ca
ral fubj
At d
venty w
ftands |
dwellin
lagans,
which «
the vill:
of Kam
Obli
KAMTSCHATKA. 35
neous habitations, in one of which M. de Leffeps
and his friend flept, having had it cleaned for that
purpofe.
Leaving this village at break of day, at fome dif.
tance they faw a number of balagans, which they
were informed were inhabited in the fithing feafon.
They now got near the fea, and kept along the coaft
for fome time ; but the wind blew the fnow about in
fuch heaps, that they could not fee to what diftance
from the lund the fea was frozen, which the inhabi.
tants told them was thirty werfts. |
At Khaluli, feventy werfts from Ouké, and a fmall
diftance from the fea, they found only two yourtes
and twelve or thirteen balagans. They faw alfo at
this place a baidar, or boat, covered with leather ; it
was from fifteen to eighteén feet long, and four wide.
The hull was compofed of thin planks, making a
fort of crois or arbour work. The timbers were made
faft with leather ftraps, and the whole covered with
the fkins of the morfe and fea-wolf, fo that no water
could poffibly penetrate. Here they ftaid two nights,
and fetting out at ten o’clock the morning of the
asth, after travelling fome time they regained the fea,
and keeping along the eaftern coaft for fome werfts,
got to Ivafchin, forty werfts from Khaluli, where
they flept, and the next night they reached Drannki.
At this village they met a M. Haus, a Ruffian officer,
who came from Tiguel, and brought M. Kafloff feve-
ral fubjects of natural hiftory.
At day-breuk they left Drannki, and travelling fe-
venty werfts, arrived in the evening at Karagui, which
ftands high, and commands a view of the fea. The
dwellings confifted of three yourtes and a dozen ba-
lagans, at the foot of which ran the river Karaga,
which empties itfelf into the fea a few gun-fhots from
the village. Drannki is the laft village in the diftri&
of Kamtfchatka.
Obliged to wait in this place for fome dried fith,
(c 2) which
30 TRAVELS FROM
which was to’ feed the dogs:in the defarts they were
now to traverfe, M, de Lefleps took the opportunity
of revifing his notes, and of paying fome attention to
the yourtes, or caves, none of which he had had an
opportunity of examining that were perfec.
This itrange habitation is a fquare excavation,
about twelve or fourteen yards in diameter, and eight
feet deep, with a top rifing above the ground, fhaped
fomething like a dome. The four fides arelined with
joifts..or boards, and the interftices filled up with
earth, {traw, or dried grafs, and ftones. In the bot-
tom) feveral pofts are fixed that fupport the crofs
beans upon which the roof refts, which rifes four
feet from the level of the ground, and is made of the
fame. materials,as the fides. ‘Towards the top is a
fquare opening, about four feet long and three wide,
which ferves as a paflage for the {moke, as well as for
entrance into the yourte by means of a Jadder, jor
notched piece of timber. It is thought a kind of
difgrace.to go through a door that is lower down in
the fide of the yourte. The whole is furrounded by
high palifades, which ferve as a defence againft the
wind'as well as the drifts of fnow. Some fay that
thefe enclofures were formerly, ufed by thefe people
as ramparts againft their enemies.
You have only to enter one of thele favage abodes
to wifh.yourfelf out again. .The fight and fmell are
equally affected. It is one fingle room, about ten feet
high, furrounded with a kind of bench five feet wide,
and raifed a foot from.the ground, covered with the
halt-worn fkins of different animals, and which is ufed
as a bed for all the inhabitants The number of thefe
fometimes amounts to twenty perfons, men, women,
and childien, who all eat, drink, and fleep together,
without the fmalleft regard to cleanlinefs or\ decency
of any kind. They have almoft conftantly a fire,
which is placed either in the middle or at one-fide of
the room. In the evenipg the coals are raked up in
a heap,
— _
sp Se ° 7
a heap,
means
night,
ready d
the ap:
ing wit
images
reft'of
The re
WwoIne
falmon
The
de Le
that 9
fo clofe
peared
at the
fons ;
fkin, À
A han
newed
others
child's
up, an
hung «
where
a fath
carriec
leathe:
head,
The
and M
to his
great
them
Th
very |
there
KAMTSCHATKA. 37:
a heap, and the opening at the top clofed, by which
means the, heat is concentrated, and preferved. all
night, By the light of an almoft infectious lamp, al-.
ready defcribed, you may difcover in one corner of
the apartment, an uncouth image of {ome faint, fhin-
ing with greafe, and black with fmoke. Before thefe
images they bend, and offer up their prayers... The
reft’of the furniture is trifling, all difguttingly filthy.
The remains of dried fith lie here and there, and the
women and children are continually broiling pieces of
falmon fkin, which is a favourite marfel. |
The fingularity of the children’s drefs attracted M.
de Leffep’s attention. It was faid to be exaétly like
that of the Koriacs, and confifted of a deer-fkin, fitted
fo clofe to eyery part of the body, thatthe child ap-
peared to be fewed up in it. There was an opening
at the bottom, before and behind, for obvious rea-
fons ; and this was covered with a feparate piece of
fkin, which could be faftened:or lift up at pleafure.
A handful of mofs ferved for a. napkin, and was re-
newed occafionally. Befides the common fleeves, two
others were attached to the garment, in which the
child's arms were put when cold; the ends were clofed
up, and the infide lined with mofs... A hood of {kin
hung on the fhoulders of the children in the yourte,
where their heads. were always kept naked; and for
a fafh they had a girt of deer-fkin. Their mothers
carried them upon. their backs, by the help of a
leather ftrap, which paffed round the woman’s fore-
head, and under the feat of the child.
The toyon of Karagui, with whom M. de Leffeps
and M. Kafloff lodged, was an old rebel, brought back
to his duty with great difficulty; and he gave them
great uneafinefs, by abfolutely refufing to procure
them fifh. à 1 à!
The manners of the inhabitants of this village are
very like thofe of the neighbouring Koriacs, of whom
there are two forts, Thofe properly fo called, who
| (e 3) have
38 TRAVELS FROM
have a fixed refidence, and others who are wanderers,
known by the denomination of rein-deer Koriacs, and
who have numerous flocks, which they maintain by
driving them about to thofe parts abounding with
mofs. Thus they are conftantly travelling, encamp-
ing under tents of fkin, and fubfifting upon the pro-
duce of their deer.
Having learnt that two of thefe hordes of travelling
Koriacs were in the neighbourhood, M de Lefleps
immediately fent a meflenger to enquire if they would
fell fome of their deer; and they brought two live ones
the fame day. This fuccour came very opportunely
to quiet the people, who began to be afraid of ftarv-
ing; and the dogs were ftill in danger, as their pro-
vifion of fifh was not arrived. A deer was killed di.
rectly; but when they came to treat about the price,
they were greatly embarraffed, as the Koriacs could
fpeak neither Ruffian nor Kantfchadale; nor could
they ever have underftood each other, but for a Ka-
ragui, who ferved as interpreter.
The rein-deer of the Koriacs were as ferviceable to
them for draught as dogs were to the Kamtfchadales.
The method of harneffing and managing them will be
given in its proper place.
The evening of the doth, a ferjeant, whom they
had been expecting fome days, arrived with provi-
fions; and it was determined to fet out the next
morning. But they were detained by a violent ftorm
of wind and fnow, which lafted till the evening of
the following day. In order to divert themfelves,
therefore, it was propofed to try the talents of a cele-
brated female dancer, an inhabitant of Karagui, and
whofe fame had raifed their curiofity. They accord-
ingly fent for her; but from caprice, or ill-humour,
fhe refuled to dance, or to pay any regard to their in-
vitation. It was in vain to reprefent to her the re.
fpeét due to the Commandant. Nothing could per-
fuade her. Fortunately they had brandy at hand,
foine bumpers of which feemed to change her ce
ition.
fition.
began to
voice an
her coun
frame fhe
She pref
cing not
time wit
The mot
contain 1
fied the
more ex
the ftra
diftorted
agility, ¢
rage, wl
mined t
ftranget
more ex
woman,
have th
ourte, |
eep cot
way. \
that fhe
hang up
felf, he
on whic
of breat
whilft tk
tinued
recover!
up, and
ftandin;
teft, bu
intercec
felf unv
filenced
—~ =
=>
oe a a DE
KAMTSCIÉATKA. 39
fition, At the fame time, by defire, a Kamtfchadale
began to dance before her, and provoke her by his
voice and gefture. Her eyes gradually brightened ;
her countenance became convulfed, and her whole
frane fhook upon the bench where fhe was fitting.
She prefently anfwered the incitements and the pier-
cing notes of the dancer by fimilar efforts, keeping
time with her head, which turned in every direction.
The motions at length became fo rapid, that fhe could
contain no longer; but ftarting up on the ground, de.
fied the man in her turn, by cries and contortions
more extravagant than his. It is difficult to exprefs
the ftrangenefs of the dance. All her limbs feemed
diftorted ; fhe moved them with as much ftrength as
agility, carrying her hands to her bofom in a kind of
rage, which fhe uncovered, and feized, as if deter-
mined to tear it, as the did her garments. Thefe
ftrange tranfports were accompanied with poftures {till
more extraordinary. In a word, fhe was no longer a
woman, but afury. In her blind phrenzy the would
have thrown herfelf upon the fire in the middle of the
ourte, if her hufband, who had the precaution to
eep conftantly near her, had not put a bench in the
way. When he faw that her head was quite gone,
that fhe rolled from fide to fide, and was obliged to
hang upon her fellow dancer, in order to fupport her-
felf, he carried her in his arms to the circular bench,
on which the fell like a mafs without fenfe, and out
of breath. She remained in this ftate five minutes;
whilf the Kamtfchadale, elate with his triumph, con-
tinued finging and dancing. The woman, a little
recovered, heard him; and fuddenly raifing herfelf
up, and uttering the moft inarticulate founds, notwith-
ftanding her weaknefs would have renewed the con-
teft, but for her hufband, who kept her back, and
interceded for her. The victor, however, feeling him-
felf unwearied, continued his alluring grimaces, till
filenced by the authority of the company. In fpite of
(c.4) the
' =. DE
SS —— — = a
=: a ———
Se —
40 TRAVELS FROM
the encomiums beftowed upon the actors, M. de
Leffeps thought the fcene rather difgufting than other-
wife. 6
Every perfon in this village, men and women,
fmoke and chew tobacco; with which, : by an unac-
countable refinement, they mix afhes, in order, as
they faid, to make it ftronger. Some, to whom {nuff
was offered, put into their mouths. Their pipes were
made like the Chinefe, of bone, and very fmall; they
take great care not to emit the fmoke, ‘but {wallow
it with delight.
The toyons, or magiftrates of the feveral villages
through which they had paffed from Ozernoi, who
had accompanied them out of refpeët to M. Kaïloff,
took their leave two days after their arrival at Kara-
gui; and they bade adieu in a manner that fhewed a
{trong attachment to the perfon of the Governor-ge-
neral. Their kindnefs was even extended ta M.'de
Lefleps, who could by no means withftand the little
prefents that were offered him; and which was either
the fkin of a fable or of a fox, or fruit, or fifh, or
whatever they judged would be acceptable. : .
The weather being calm, at one o’clock in the
morning of the 2d of March, our travellers left Ka-
ragui; and having gone fifty werlts, they ftopped
at the approach of night, and pitched their tents in
the open country. Under M. Kafloff’s tent, which
was the iarge(t, his verock and that of M..de Leffeps
were placed fide by fide; fo that putiing their faces
clofe to the windows, which were made of the leaves
of talc, they could converfe without difficulty. In the
intervals between the other fledges, which were ranged
two and two round the outfide of the tent, under co-
verings of fkins, the guides and the reft of their fuite
made their beds. Such was the difpofition of their
halt in that barren fpot. Tea and fupper were the
only meals of the day ; and a corporal acted as cate-
rer and cook. The difhes he had to ferve up were
neither many nor delicate, but his alacrity in preparing
| them,
them, :
comma
beef or
or oat
Earl
but fo
werits,
with gt
fered e
of who
others
want oO
their u
tity re
days
dier to
fend a
Kafloff
of fort
upon tl
Ast
hamlet
fome fi
to give
the bet
ing pal
the for
fumed
they g
‘ o'clock
falling
built o
up by
nor an
here a
more {
luntari
There
KAMTSCHATKA. Al
them, and a good appetite, gave them a relifh. , He
commonly produced a foup, compofed of a piece of
beef or deer, and fome of the baked bread, with rice
or oatmeal.
Early next morning they continued their journey,
but found it impoffible to go more than thirty-five
werlts, The wind had fhifted, and blew the fnow
with great violence in their faces. The guides fuf-
fered exceedingly, but not fo much as the dogs, many
of whom died inthe road, exhaufted by fatigue. The
others could draw no longer, fo wéak were they for
want of nourifhment; having had only a quarter of
their ufual allowance, on account of the {mall quan-
tity remaining, which was fcarcely enough for two
days more. In this extremity they difpatched a fol-
dier to Kaminoi, to procure them a fupply, and to
fend an efcort to meet them, which was waiting M,
Kafloff’s arrival at that village, and confifted of a guard
of forty men, who had been fent him from Ingiga,
upon the firit news of the revolt among the Koriacs. .
As they were only fifteen werfts from the village or
hamlet of Gavenki, where they had hopes of finding
fome fifh for their dogs; they ventured that evening
to give them a double portion, that they might be
the better able to continue their journey. And hav-
ing paffed the night in the fame manner that they had
the former, at three o’clock in the morning they re-
fumed thejr route, keeping clofe to the fea-fhore till
they got tq Gavenki, whither they arrived by ten
' o’clock. Nothing was to be feen here but two yourtes
falling to decay, and fix ill conftructed balagans,
built of crooked pieces of wood accidentally thrown
up by the fea; for there was not a tree in the place,
nor any thing except a few bufhes, thinly fcattered
here and there. It was no wonder they learned that
more than twenty inhabitants had not long fince vo-
luntarily exiled themfelves, in fearch of a better abode.
There were now only five families, including that of
the
A2 TRAVELS FROM
the toyon, and two Kamtfchadales, who had come
hither from the ifle of Karagui. No reafon was af.
figned for the change, by which it was.certain they
could not have gained.
They had not been an hour at Gavenki, when a
difpute arofe between a ferjeant belonging to their
fuite and two countrymen of the village, to whom he
applied for wood. They anfwered fharply, they would
not give him any. Both parties grew warm, and the
Kamtfchadales, not intimidated by the menacés of the
ferjeant, attacked him with their knives, which were
two feet long, faftened to a girdle, and hanging upon
their thighs. They were foon ditarmed by two of the
foldiers ; and as foon as the Governor was informed
of this aé& of violence, he ordered that the delinqu:nts
fhould be made an example of. For this purpofe
they were brought before the yourte, in which were
M. Kafloff and M. de Leffeps ; and, in order to Mike
the inhabitants with awe, M. Kafloff attended the pu-
nifhment. The toyon, who remained with M. de
Leffeps, began‘to murmur at the rigour with which
his countrynen were treated; and his family joined
him with ftill louder crivs. M. de Leffeps, though
alone, endeavoured to calm him; and perceiving that
M. Kafloff had forgot his arms, he feized the fabres,
upon a motion the toyon made to go out, and fol-
lowed him inftantly. The toyon joined the Gover-
nor, and calling upon his neighbours, loudly demand-
ed the releafe of the prifoners He urged, that he
alone was their judge, and he alone had a right of
punifhing them. To thefe feditious clamours M.
Kafloff made no reply, bu: a fevere look, which dif-
concerted the effrontery of the peafants and their
chiefs. The toyon uttered more words, but they
feized him, and compelled him to affift at the punith-
ment which he had attempted to prevent. One of the
rebellious was a young man eighteen years of age,
the other twenty-eight, or thirty. They were lh
an
and laid ur
legs and h.
fhouiders a
were cover
women, th
man fent a
fcarcely in
dream of r
The fe
cafion was
à great des
Inftead of
for the ufe
therto don
hood was
nofes dir
earth and |
which they
dignation |
but they c
peared tha
cod or ftoc
mals.
There i:
hood, but
tants with
lake, and |
keepin ak
about the
and to thi
Near the
entrenchm
ple fora r
M. de!
or thirteer
for Poutf
which con
been fo pz
KAMTSCHATKA. 43
and laid upon the ground. Two foldiers held their
legs and hands, whilft four others laid on upon their
fhouiders a plentiful number of {tiipes, till their backs
were covered with blood. At the entreaties of the
women, the punifhment was abridged ; and the young
man fent away with an exhortation, to which he was
fcarcely in a fituation to attend, any more than to
dream of rebelling a fecond time. |
‘The feverity exercifed by M. Kafloff on this oc-
cafion was the more neceflary, as thefe péople fhewed
a great deal of the reftlefs difpofition of the Koriacs.
Inftead of fupplying the party with provifions, even
for the ufe of the dogs, as the Kamtfchadales had hi-
therto done, they denied having any. But their falfe-
hood was foon detected by the dogs themfelves, whofe
nofes directed them to the pits, artfully covered with
earth and fnow, in which they hid their fifh, and for
which they weakly attempted to make excufes. In.
dignation might have led the party to feize the whole,
but they contented themfelves with a thare. .It ap-
peared that their fifhing confifted of falmon, herrings,
cod or ftock-fifh, of morfe, and other amphibious ani-
mals.
There is neither {pring nor river in the neighbour-
hood, but a lake only which f:pplies the inhabi-
tants with water. In winter they break the ice of this
lake, and carry home great portions of it, which they
keepin akind of trough fufpended in the yourte, at
about the height of a man. Here the heat melts it,
and tothis they have recourfe when they are dry.
Near the village was a mountain, wish fome fort of
entrenchment, which formerly had ferved thefe peo-
ple for a re in their revolts. oii
M, de Lefleps and his companions ftaid but twelve
or thirteen hours at Gavenki and departed at night
for Poutitaretfk, a diftance of two hundred werits,
which confumed five long days. Never had journey
been fo painful. At fetting out the weather was to-
| lerably
44 TRAVELS FROM
lerably good ; but the feeond day the fnow and wind
affailed them with fuch impetuofity, that the guides
were blinded. At four paces: they could not diftin.
uifh any thing, nor fcarcely fee the fledge they. were
immediately following. !
To increafe their diftrefs, the guide they took at
Gavenki was fo fhort-fighted from age, that he fre-
quently led them out of the way, and they: were
obliged to ftop while he found out the vefliges of
the road. Many of the dogs died of hunger ‘and fa-
tigue. Of the thirty-feven that drew M. de Lefleps’
verock from Bolcheretfk, twenty-three only remain.
ed; and M. Kafloff had alfo loft many of his. They
had neither water nor wood; they were, therefore,
obliged to quench their thirft with {now, and often to
© fome diftance out of the way to break fome wood
Sock a miferable fhrub, for the purpofe of drefling
their victuals. To warm themfelves was impoflible,
and they were almoft frozen, from the exceflive cold
and the flownefs with which they travelled. The
anxiety of M. de Lefleps, on account of his dif.
patehes, added greatly to his diftrefs; impatient to
fulfil his commiflion, the obftacles he had to furmount,
and the doubtfulnefs of his fuccefs, greatly agitated
his mind, and almoft drove him: to delpair.”
When they left Gavenki, they had quitted the eaf-
tern coaft, and got within fight of the weftern two
werfts from Poutftaretfk ; fo that they had traverfed
the whole width of that part of Kamtfchatka, which
is not lefs than fifty leagues. And this journey the
inability of their dogs had obliged them to make more
a-foot than in their fledges, which the guides were
fometimes under the neceflity of drawing. With this
affiftance, and enticing thedogs by holding up a hand-
kerchief before them, made into the fhape of a fifh,
they were at length enabled to pafs the mountain that
led to Poutftarettk.
On entering this hamlet, which they did on the oth
of
of the:mo
felves fafe,
hufbands
fearch of w
his party t
round then
her parque
exprefled t
as they fa
laughter.
Their fi
fifh.: How
empty! T
tants had t
at Gavenk
could not f
In this i
order to bi
were no {o
and harne
them: were
country, v
every thir
pieces. §
every limt
competito!
It became
themfelves
thefe fami
them deve
the woefu
yourte of
leton appe
paffion, x
feemed a:
which it \
fering fro:
clote to tl
wind
ruides
diftin.
were
ok at
e fre-
were
res of
d fa-
pfleps’
main.
They
efore,
en to
wood
efling
flible,
> cold
The
à dif-
nt to
ount,
itated
e eaf-
1 two
erfed
which
y the
more
were
1 this
hand-
fifh,
1 that
e oth
of
KAMTSCHATKA. Ad
of the month at three o'clock, they thought them-
felves fafe, from the reception of the women, whofe
hufbands were gone to the oftrog of Potkagornoi, in
fearch of whales. They conducted M. de Leffeps.and
his party to, their habitations, finging and dancing
round them like mad people. One of them. took off
her parque or frock, and put it on M. Kafloff; others
expreffed their fatistaétion at the unexpected arrival,
as they faid, of the ftrangers, by violent fits of
laughter.
Their firft care was to vifit all the refervoirs for
fith., How great was their chagrin at finding them all
empty ! They immediately fufpelted that the inhabi-
tants had taken the fame precaution as had been ufed
at Gavenki, but their fearches were ufelefs, and they
could not find any.
In this interval the dogs had been unharnefled, in
order to be tied up in divifions as ufual. But they
were no fooner faftened to the pofts than the ftraps
and harnels were devoured. All attempts at {topping
them were vain. he greater part efcaped into the
country, where they wandered here and there, eating
every thing that their teeth could poffibly tear to
pieces. Some died and became a prey to the reft,
every limb of a carcafe being. contefted by a troop of
competitors, all of whom attacked it with equal fury,
It became abfolutely neceffary for the people to arm
themfelves with fticks, or other weapons, to beat off
thefe famifhed animals. To the horror of beholding
them devouring each other in this manner, was added
the woeful : fpeétacle of thofe that encompaffed the
yourte of M. de Leffeps and his company. The fke-
leton appearance of thefe poor animals excited com-
paffion, whilft their plaintive and continual cries
feemed as reproaches for the want of that fuccour
which it was impoffible to afford them. Many fuf-
fering from cold as well as hunger, placed themfelves
clote to the aperture in the top of the aneriment by
which
46 TRAVELS FROM
which the fmoke afcended, The more they felt the
heat, the nearer they drew; till lofing their balance
through weaknels, they fell down into the fire before
their eyes.
Soon after their arrival, the guide returned who
had accompanied the foldier fent from Kaminoi on the
third, in fearch of fupplies. He informed them that the
foldier was himfelf in the greateft want, was happy in
having difcovered, twelve wer{ts to the northward of
Poutitaretfk, a wretched abandone: yourte, in which
he found fhelter from the ftorms that had bewildered
him feveral times. The provifions that had been
given him for himfelf and his dogs were confumed ;
and he waited impatiently for fome relief, without
which he could neither leave his afylum, nor execute
the purport of his miffion.
M. Kafloff, far from being caft down by this laft
difappointment, comforted his companions, by im-
parting the laft expedient he had refolved to adopt.
On information of a whale’s having been driven
afhore near Potkagornoi, he had already difpatched a
meffenger, who was to bring them, with the utmoft
expedition, as much of the flefh and fat of that fith as
he could obtain. This refource ftill being uncertain,
M. Kafloff propofed, that each fhould make a facrifice
of the provifions he had referved for his own dogs,
and give them up to Serjeant Kabechoff, who had
offered to go to Kaminoi. In their prefent diftrefs,
the leaft glimmer of hope fufficed to decide them ; and
they embraced the offer with tranfport, relying upon
the zeal and ability of the ferjeant.
He went away the 1oth, amply furnifhed with in-
ftru€tions, and carrying with him the remainder of
theif provifions. In his route he was to pick up the
oor foldier, and then haften to fulfil the commiffion,
which be had not been able to effect. After having
taken thefe meafvres, they exhorted one another to
patience, and endeavoured to diffipate their ai
tl
till it fhou
de Leffeps
taretfk.
This he
wafhed by
call it Po
only a na
mountain,
fo that the
thirft witl
perfons, c
for fumme
the yourte
They p
provifion
as their fo
the flefh a
with the b
fea wolf, «
faid they ¢
de Leffeps
as they af
Theirr
there are.
round a
leaving fo
fpread net
to drive
caught by
ways efca
fades ; bi
one chafe
Befides
mens’ bu
mals, par
them. 7
in a ftick
nue to fc
It the
lance
>etore
who
m the
at the
py in
ard of
which
dered
been
med ;
thout
ecute
s laft
| ime
dopt.
riven
hed a
ot
fh as
tain,
rificé
dogs,
» had
trefs,
; and
KAMTSCHATKA. 47
till it fhould pleafe Providence to deliver them. M.
de Leffeps employed this time in looking round Poutf.
taret{k. |
This hamlet is fituated on the flope of a mountain,
wafhed by the fe. Though the people. of the country
call it Pouftai-reka, the Defart River. But it is, in fac,
only a narrow gulf, that advances to the foot of the
mountain. The water was falt, and not drinkable,
fo that they were even here obliged to quench their
thirft with fnow. ‘Two yourtes, containing fifteen
perfons, compofed the whole hamlet. A few balagans
for fummer habitations were at fome diftance from
the yourtes, higher up in the country. |
They paffed the fummer in fifhing, and in making
provifion for winter. But fifh could not be plentiful,
as their food, during M. de Leffeps’ abode there, was
the flefh and fat of the whale, the crude bark of trees,
with the buds foaked in the oil of the whale or of the
fea wolf, or ix the greafe of other animals. They
faid they caught {mall cod fometimes at fea, and M.
de Leffeps had no doubt of their being really as poor
as they appeared 'to be.
Their method of hunting the rein deer, of which
there aré great numbers, is eafy and fure. They fur.
round a certain fpace of ground with pallifades,
leaving fome narrow paffages open, in which they
fpread nets or fnares, They then feparate, in order
to drive the deer into thefe fnares, where they are
caught by the neck or the horns. A great number al-
ways efcape, by breaking the nets or leaping the pali-
fades ; but twenty or thirty men will frequently in
one chafe take more than fixty deer.
Befides their houfehold employments, it is the wo-
mens’ bufinefs to prepare the fkins of the different ani-
mals, particularly of the deer, by flaining and fewing
them. They firft fcrape them with a fharp ftone fixed
in a ftick. And having taken off the fat, they conti-
nue to fcrape them till they become thinner and fup-
ple.
48 TRAVELS FROM
ple. The:only colour they dye them is a deëp red,
which they do from the bark of the alder. tree, call-
ed in Ruflia olkhovaïa-déréva. They boil this bark,
arid then rub the fkin with it till it is impregnated
with the dye. The knives with which :they after.
wards cut the fkins, are crooked, and probably of
their own invention.
The finews of the deer, finely feparated, and pre.
pared by thefe women, ferve them for thread. They
few perfectly well. . Their needles come from Okotik,
and are nothing extraordinary. The thimble, which
refembles à taylor’s, is worn upon the fore finger.
The manner of fmoking, by putting a pinch of to-
bacco in the pipe ata time; and replenifhing it, has al.
ready been mentioned ; but the terrible confequences
which M; de Leffeps often witneffed; was not noticed,
By fwallowing the fmoke; inftead of emitting it, they
‘by degrees become fo intoxicated as to fall into, the
fire, if they were near it. Happily cuftom has taught
them to mark the progrefs of this fainting fit; and
‘they have the precaution to fit down, orto lean againft
the firft thing they meet with... The fwoon lafts at
leaft a quarter of dn hour, during which time they fuf-
fer exceedingly. A;cold fweat bedews their body;
the flaver runs from their mouths; they, breathe with
difficulty, and cough inceffantly. This ftate they
reckon the chief delight in fmoking.
Neither men nor women wear fhirts or fhifts. Their
common cloathing is fomething in the form of one,
but fhorter, and made of deer fkin.. When:they go
out, they put a warmer garment over it; and in-win-
ter the women wear fur breeches inftead of petticoats.
On the 12th M. Schmaleff rejoined them, and re-
lieved them from a great anxiety on hisaccount. : He
had been abfent fix weeks, and near a month had
‘elapfed beyond {the time fixed for his coming up to
them. : The provitions he brought were very fcanty,
-but his.dogs were rather!in-better orderthan di c
whic
their ov
for M. |
had dev
reduced
ed, that
refource
but he :
as that
dogs or
ready fi
hope, :
would «
the fam
Govern
In tl
formed
loff fF
to find
OF the |
our fro
that we
impoflit
ration tl
given u
ceed. ”
were to
K AMTSCHATKA. AQ
éf which they took the advantage, by fending them
for fome of the fledges that had been unavoidably left
on the road.
Letters from Kamirioi brought them no comfort ;
Kabechoff informing them that no affiftance was to
be expected thence. ‘The detachment from Ingiga
could not reach them; it had been waiting two
months at Kaminoi, and they not only had confumed
their own provifions; but thofe alfo that were deftined
for M. Kafloff and his party. Their dogs, like ours,
had devoured one another; and the forty men were
reduced to the greateft extremity. The ferjeant add-
ed, that he had fent immediately to Ingiga as the laft
refource. His exprefs could not return for fome days,
but he was fearful the anfwer would be unfatisfactory,
as that town could not be very well provided with
dogs or food, after the confiderable fupply it had al-
ready furnifhed. This afiéting report took away all
hope, and entirely damped the pleafure M. Kafloff
would otherwile have received, in having advice by
the fame courier of his promotion from Okotfk to the
Government of Yakoutik
In this critical moment, M. de Leffeps fuddenly
formed the fcheme of feparating himfelf from M. Kaf-
loff His zeal to fulfil his commiffion prompted him
to find out fome method of continuing his journey.
Of the three hundred dogs with which they had fet
out from Bolcherctfk, twenty-feven only remained
that were at all capable of work, and with thefe it was
impoffible for them both to travel. After much delibe-
ration thercfore, it was agreed that the dogs fhould be
given up to M. de Leffeps, in order that he might pro-
ceed. The only remaining difficulty was, how they
were to be fed. When the exprefs arrived from Pot-
kagornoi, with a large quantity of the flefh and fat of
the whale. No difficulty feemed now in the way, and
the 18th was fixed for M. de Leffeps’ departure. |
Fortune once more flattered him with hopes of fuc-
Vou. II. (D) ceeding ;
50 TRAVELS FROM
ceeding ; and with the bad news from Kaminoi, he
allo learned that quiet was re eltablifhed among the
Koriacs ; 18 a proof of which, many of them had been
defirous of accompanying the foldier charged, with
the jetters to M. Kafloff; and even the fon of the re:
bel Chief, whofe name was Eitel, was at the head of
the eicort. He told them that his countrymen had
long expected them with impatience, and that his fa-
ther intended to fhew his re(pect for the Governor,
by.coming to meet him.
Charmed at having nothing to fear, at lealt from
this quarter, they exprefled their fatisfaétion to the
Koriacs for their good-will, by making them prefents
of tobacco, and fiuffs, and other articles, which M.
de Leffeps had purchafed during his voyage, or which
the Count de la Péroufe had left him. But the prin-
cipal care, in order to fecure a favourable report of
their reception, was to make them drunk; and this,
as meeting their tafte, was confidered as the, greateft
politenels. Pr
M. de Lefleps propofed that the Koriacs fhould
take charge of his portmanteaus. To this they at firft
objected, on account of the diftance, which was to
Ingiga., But entreaties and money prevailed on them
to take them into their fledges ; and thus he had no-
thing to think of but his difpaches; as the foldier
fent from Ingiga would return thither, and promifed
to fee his wifhes faithfully complied with.
The 18th of March at length arrived; when the
parting between M. de Lefleps and M. Kafloff will na-
turally be fuppofed affectionate and diftrefling. M.
de Leffeps left Poutftarctfk at nine o’clock in the
morning, on an open fleige, drawn by feven dogs,
which he conducted himfclf.. He had a foldier, as an
efcort, on a fledge with eight dogs, and an inhabitant
of the hamlet as a guide, who carried the remainder
of the baggage and the provifions on a fledge drawn
by twelve dogs. M. de Lefleps was alfo accompanied
by
by M. §
who, he
Fro1
the gulf
in Fe
became
near the
and we
quently
pany ef
Tow
fea-coa
in am
only m
they en
one of
fled at t
did, to
coffac
been fe
their de
at this |
precauti
arrival,
difcover
good fh
provifio
Early
grew m
nefs of |
his legs
thirft ac
ceived a
fome ice
had felt
and a fe
the mid
to find
KAMTSCHATKA. 51
by M. Schmaleff, and the inferior officers of his fuite,
who, however, parted from him after fome days.
From Poutftaretfk they immediately defcended upon
the gulf, where they travelled with tolerable eafe, and
in a few hours arrived at the mouth. Here the way
became more difficult. Obliged to go on the fea,
near the fhore, the heaps of ice greatly impeded them,
and were very dangerous. The fledges were fre.
quently overturned, and fcarcely a perfon in the com-
pany efcaped without injury.
Towards night-fall they arrived at a hamlet on the
fea-coalt, where were two yourtes, and three balagans
in a miferable condition, wholly abandoned. ‘The
only man who had inhabited the yourte into which
they entered, and who, M. de Lefleps learned from
one of his attendants, was a chaman or forcerer, had
filed at their approach; as all the wandering Koriacs
did, to avoid the neceflity of fuccouring them. The
coffac who gave M. de Leffeps this information, had
been fent forward by M. Schmaleff the day before
their departure from Poutftaretfk, with orders to ftop
at this hamlet, and fearch for concealed fifh ; which
precaution proved very ufeful to them; for on their
arrival, the coffac conducted them to a cave he had
difcovered full of fifh, of which M. de Leffeps took a
good fhare, having brought with him only two days
provifion.
Early the 19th they continued their journey, which
grew more and more fatiguing. The extreme bad-
nefs of the road compelled M. de Leffeps to walk till
his legs would fcarcely fupport him. An intolerable
thirft added to his wearinefs. Unfortunately he per-
ceived a fmall rivulet, and was induced to fwallow
fome ice. His thirft was quenched, but the heat he
had felt was prefently fucceeded by a fhivering fit,
and a fevere paroxy{m of fever obliged him to halt in
the midft of the defert. They were happy enough
to find wood fufficient to make tea; and after drink-
(D ‘2) ing
52 TRAVELS FROM
ing a few cups of this, M. de Leffeps laid down in a
tent he had with him, well covered with furs, in hopes
of raifing a perfpiration, This he could not effect,
and paffed a moft uncomfortable night. He deters
mined, however, to make an attempt at proceeding
the next day, when the unavoidable exertion of driv-
ing, though extremely painful at firft, foon excited
perfpiration. ‘This he perfevered in encouraging, till
by the evening his fever had fubfided, though he felt
the effect of his indifcretion fome time.
The weather was now very fine; and M. de Lef-
feps received inexpreflible fatisfaction from meeting
three convoys with provifion, and a hundred and fifty
dogs in good order, fent by Serjeant Kabechoff to M,
‘Kafloff. The foldier who conduéted the convoys told
him alfo, that Prince Eitel, or the Chief of the Ko-
racs of Kaminoi, who had been accufed of rebellion,
was on his way to undeceive the Governor. ;
After climbing fome fteep mountains, they came
down upon a river called the Talofka, which was
joined by a fmaller river towards the fea. The banks
of both were well wooded. This river they quitted
fome diftance from Kaminoi. ‘They then had a vaft
heath of broom to traverfe, then a confiderable lake ;
and, at length, they quitted the Pengina near its
mouth, in a direction from fouth-eaft to north-weft.
The breadth of this river was ftriking ; and the pro-
digious heaps of ice with which it was covered, would
have made it appear pleafantly piéturefque, if they had
not had the fatigue and danger of frequently helping
the dogs and the fledges from one heap to the other.
On the 24th they entered Kaminoi about noon,
and were kindly received by the inhabitants. In the
abfence of Litel, another Prince, whofe name was
Eila, held the command. He met them at'the head
of a Ruflian detachment ; and they were conduéted to
the yourte of Eïitel, which had been long cleaned and
prepared againft the arrival of M. Kafloff.
: Prince
Poutit:
eminen
of the:
balang:
formed
furrow!
arrows
thofe o
cations
withfta
Tchou
both fc
eftimat
childre
dais, «
to holc
refemb
conftr!
adapte
Imp
bufine!
leave I
pounce
KAMTSCHATKA, 53
8
Prince Eila paid them every kind of refpeët ; the
had a fentinel conftantly at the door, whofe bufinefs
was to keep out fufpicious perfons. Whatever foun-
dation there might have been for the report of a re-
bellion among thefe people, their prefent behaviour to
M. de Lefleps and his compinions gave no reafon to
doubt their peaceable difpofition ; and the Koriacs
and Ruffians lived together upon the beft terms.
M. de Leffeps had not intended to ftop at Kaminoi
longer than to reft his dogs: but in the night of the
24th and 25th the weather changed, and the blafts of
wind threatened an approaching tempeft. The fear
of meeting this in the open country made him defer
his departure.
The oftrog or village of Kaminoi, diftint from
Poutftaretfk three hundred werfts, is fituated on an
eminence, upon the borders of the fea, at the mouth
of the river Pengina. It comprifes a great number of
balangans and a dozen yourtes, all very large and
formed like thofe already defcribed. The palifades
furrounding them are fortified with lances, bows and
arrows, and fufils, and are thicker and higher than
thofe of the Kamtfchadales. Thefe miferable fortifi-
cations the Koriacs think impregnable, and capable of
withftanding the attacks of their enemies; even of the
T'chouktchis, the moft formidable of their neighbours,
both for number and courage. The population was
eftimated at three hundred perfons, men, women, and
children. M. de Leffeps faw here alfo twenty bai-
dais, or boats, of different fizes ; fome large enough
to hold from five and twenty to thirty perfons. They
refembled that noticed at Khaluli, but feemed better
conftruéted, and from their lightnefs to be better
adapted for failing.
Impatient as M .Schmaleff was to get to Ingig, his
bufinefs made it neceflary to fufer M. de Leflèps to
leave Kaminoi without him. ‘This refolution he an-
nounced to M. de Lefleps not without pain, prefling
(D 3) upon
54 TRAVELS FROM
upon him at the fame time a confidential foldier,
named Yegor-Golikoff, which he called a valuable
prefent, as the fequel proves it to have been,
The fcarcity of dogs at Kaminoi, and the bad con-
dition. of M. de Leffeps’, determined M. Schmaleff to
give him the dogs belonging to the detachment ; and
on the 26th, at eight o’clock in the morning,, he left
Kaminoi, in tolerably calm weather, with an efcort of
four men ; i. ¢. Golikoff, the foldier he had brought
from Poutftaretfk, and two others, chofen out of the
detachment from Ingiga, who were to ferve as guides.
At the diftance of fifteen werfts, he met again with
the mountains he had already pafled; and traverfing
them a fecond time, croffed a river called Cheftokova,
where he halted. Notwithftanding he was awakened
by the gufts of wind which blew. the fnow about in
fuch clouds, as made it difficult to diftinguifh whether
it were day-light, he would {till haye continued his
_ journey, but could not prevail upon his guides to quit
the place, for fear of lofing their way, or running inta
other danger during fuch terrible weather.
Thus oppofed, M. de Leffeps re-entered his tent in
no very good humour; but about noon he was agree-
ably confoled by the arrival of feven Tchouktchis, who
came on fledges, like thofe of the wandering Koriacs,
and drawn like them by rein-deer. He received them
into his tent, and invited them to ftay till the ftorm
was over. Nothing could have been more flattering
to them, as M. de Leffeps judged, from the air of fa-
tisfaction vifible in their countenances. +
Amongft thefe Tchouktchis was the Chief of the
horde, named Tummé. He took upon himfelf to af-
fure M. de Lefleps how fenfible they were of his gra-
cious reception. He affured him, that fince they had
heard mention of him, they had defired nothing fo
much as his acquaintance ; and all their fear had been
that they fhould never meet him. That they fhould
never forget his perfon nor his kindnefs, of which
they
they
their
M
tifyi
turne
try
ftood
thro
verei.
faithf
hom
that
being
twee
ing,
alle
guen
clofe
migh
biifh
from
every
forge
duét
the K
num!
upon
their
with
their
KAMTSCHATKA. * 55
they would take care to render a faithful account to
their countrymen. |
M. de Leffeps’ acknowledgments. were equally gra-
tifying, and the converfation became general. It
turned upon different fubjeéts, particularly their coun-
try and that of M, de Lefleps. When they under-
ftood that, in his return to France, he was to pafs
through the town that was the refidence of their So-
vereign, they requefted him to give the Emprefs a
faithful defcription of them, and to lay at her feet the
homage of their refpeét and obedience. They added,
that they thought themfelves particularly happy in
being tributary to Ruffia; that the intercourfe be-
tween them and the Ruflians was every day improv-
ing, and that they were charmed with their marks of
affection. They beftowed great praife on M. Ga-
guen, Governor of Ingiga. They even wifhed for a
clofer connection with the Ruffians, which they faid
might be eafily effected by their forming a new efta-
blifhment on the river Anadir; and promifed, that far
from interrupting them, they would endeavour, by
every poffible initance of friendfhip, to make them
forget the injuftice of their former conduct; a con-
duét originating in error, from their looking upon
the Ruffians, as the Koriacs had done, as a fmall
number of individuals, who came as intruders to feize
upon their territory, and of whom they thought it
their intereft to rid themfelves. Their acquaintance
with the Ruffians, they continued, had fhowed them
their miftake ; and far from revolting, they were de-
termined upon difconcerting the feditious intrigues of
a Prince or Chief of the Tchouktchis, whole name
was Kherourgi, either by reftraining his authority, or
even by giving him up to the Ruffians.
It was impoffible tor M. de Lefleps to give thefe
people any notion of geography, fo as to make them
underftand the fituation of France, or its diftance from
Ruffia; with which country they were but little ac.
(D 4) quainted,
56 TRAVELS FROM
quainted. They were ftill fuperior in underftanding
to the Koriacs, as well as in a thirft after knowledge.
Their language was the fame, but the pronunciation
of.the Tchouktchis was fofter and pleafanter.
The notice M. de Leffeps took of: their cloathing
made them eager to know that of France; for which
purpofe he took a uniform out of his portmanteau.
They all admired it in raptures, efpecially the but-
tons, which bore the arms of France, and which they
begged M. de Leffeps would divide amongft ‘them,
promifing to keep them as a mark of friendfhip, and
to fhow tiem to all ftrangers, in hopes that fome other
Frenchman might vifit them. After keeping’ up the
converfation tolerably well through the medium of
the guide, who ferved as interpieter, and: regaling
them with tobacco, having nothing to give them fa
acceptable, they parted in the moft friendly manner.
The Tchouktchis telling M. de Leffeps, that he would
probably foon meet their equipages with their wives,
whom they had left behind, in order to make the
greater expedition. In a fhort time after their de-
parture, the wind lulled, and M. de Leffeps purfued
his route. |
The day following, juft as M. de Leffeps had de-
termined to make a halt, having difcovered near a
wood a convenient fpot for that purpofe, he perceived,
at fome diftance from him, a large troop of deer feed-
ing at liberty on the top of a mountain. On examin-
ing them more attentively, he diftinguifhed fome men,
who appeared to be watching them. He knew not
whether to avoid or join them; but curiofity led him
to reconnoitre,
By keeping along the wood, he was told he would
come up with them, though he imag.ned that at the
end of it he fhould have to pafs a river, an arm of
which he had lately crofled. Whilft he was furveying
thefe people from the oppofite bank, he was approach-
ed by two women, the elder of whom addreffed him.
‘hei! | pir How
How g
fpoke t
two. h
t his,
to the
fledges
him ta
Int
fian, fo
tion.
as trifle
their cd
detaine
was tra
feveral
compa
throug!
threate
of whic
has lat
danger
vife rhe
which |
ceeded.
booty (
the tra
fave th
hands,
hufban
daught
and ca
misfor!
ceafed
which
two 01
The
which
cited t
KAMTSCHATKA. 57
How great was his furprize to find that they both
fpoke the Ruffian language. ‘They told him he wag
two. hundred paces from the camp of the Tchouk-
tchis, which the wood concealed. In getting down
to the fide of the river, M. de Lefleps faw their
fledges and tents, and defired the women to condu&
him to them.
In their way, one of them told him fhe was a Ruf-
fian, following the Tchouktchis from maternal affec-
tion. Dangers, fatigues, ill treatment, all appeared
as trifles to her, if fhe could but go with them into
their country, to claim her daughter, who had been
detained there as a hoftage. ‘This child, fhe faid,
was travelling two years before, with her father, and
feveral other Ruffians, upon the river Pengina. The
company, confilting of nine perfons, went quietly
through the middle of the Koriacs, who were then
threatened by a party of the T'chouktchis, at the head
of which was <>is very Kherourgi of whom mention
has latelybec :'e. To fave themfelves from thefe
dangerous ne: » cours, the Koriacs determined to ad-
vife them of the paflage of the ftrangers, as of a prize
which ought not to elcape them. ‘The artifice fuc-
ceeded. Seduced by the attraction of an immenfe
booty of iron and tobacco, the Tchouktchis followed
the track of the travellers, whofe courage could not
fave them, and four perifhed with their arms in their
hands, the victims of a fruitlefs refiftance. The
hufband of this woman was flain in defending his
daughter, whom the conquerors tore from his arms,
and carried cff with three other companions of her
misfortune. Since that time, the Ruflians had not
ceafed demanding the releafe of thofe prifoners, of
which they had obtained a promife; but to that day,
two only had been fet at liberty.
The affecting narrative of this unhappy mother,
which was often interrupted by her tears, readily ex-
sited the compaflion of M. de Lefleps ; and without
knowing
58 TRAVELS FROM
knowing what weight his mediation would have with
the Tchouktchis, he was induced to join his:intercef-
fions with her’s, and had the fatisfaétion to fee they
were not fruitlefs. ÿ)
The other woman, he learned, was born a Tchouk-
tchi. In her infancy the had been taken by the Ruf-
fians upon the river Anadir, and conduéted to Ya-
koutfk, where fhe had been baptized, and inftruéted
as far xs it was poflible. A foldier had afterwards
married her, and left her a widow in a few years.
She was then fent back with her children, by order of
Government, into her own country, that fhe might
give an account of the obligations fhe was under to
the Ruflians. [t was recommended to her to fpread
the circumftances of her hiftory even to the moft dif-
tant of the Tchouktchis, and to imprefs them with a
fenfe of the numberlefs advantages thev would find,
by eftablifhing a jure and friendly commerce with her
benefaétors.
She {poke the Ruffian, Yakoute, and ‘Fchouktchi
languages with equal facility ; and told M. de Lefleps
that the little light her education had giveri her, had
gained her a degree of credit amongft her own people.
That fhe had fo far availed herfelf of the afcendancy
fhe had gained over their underftandings, as to have
conquered many of their prejudices, and flattered
herfelf that the fhould infenfibly lead them to fee their
true intereft. Her hopes, in this refpeét, were found-
ed, in great meafure, upon the character of the people ;
who, fhe aflured M. de Lefleps, were truly hofbieable.
generous, kind, and in every refpect preferable to the
Koriacs.
The converfation of thefe women had fo fafcinated
M. de Leffeps, that he was in the camp of the T'chouk-
tchis without perceiving it. Their joy at feeing him
‘was extreme. Ina minute he was furrounded, and they
fpoke all at once to prefs him to pafs the night with
them, No fooner had he anfweredit was his intention
to
to do
railed.
extrer
he invi
ermifl
Flow
fible.
Afte
took p
his con
Ruffia
Anadi
of thei
fake of
Ruffia
alfo fo
fway fe
country
fhown
carefles
The
diftruft
They t
the Ru
having
cion.
no inte
of inte
like th:
cuous,
flattere
though
propofi
tent.
Tob
the Tc
cuit m
KAMTSCHATKA. 59
to do: fo, than frefh tranfports and clamours were
raifed. He had ordered his tent to be pitched at the
extremity of the camp; and whiift this was doing,
he invited the Chiefs to vifit him. Ready to ufe the
ermiffion he had given them, they did not wait ta
Follow him to the tent, which he found as full as pof.
fible. |
After the firft compliments, a general converfation
took place, fuch as had been held with Tummé and
his companions, They exprefled their fubmiffion to
Ruffia, and a fincere defire of an eftablifhment on the
Anadir. ‘They expatiated at length upon the motives
of their journey ; which had been principally for the
fake of vifiting fome of their relations, allied to the
Ruffians, and fettled at Ingiga. Perhaps they had
alfo fome project of commerce; but the ftrongeft
fway feemed to have been their attachment to their
countrymen, which was vifible in the marked regard
fhown towards the Tchouktchi woman, and in the
carefles beftowed upon her children.
They often entreated M. de Leffeps to banifh all
diftruft, and to affure himfelf of their friendfhip.
They thought he ftili had fome of the referve which
the Ruffians fhowed in their interviews. Though not
having the fame caufe of fear, he was far from fufpi-
cion. And he made them underftand, that having
no intention of offending any one, he had no dread
of interruption ; particularly in the midft of a nation
like their's, where goodnefs and reétitude were confpi-
cuous, This reafoning pleafed them, and they feemed
flattered by his confidence. On which account he
thought proper to conceal his arms, and to reject the
propofition of his foldiers, of having a fentinel at his
tent. '
Tobacco was diftributed to the moft diftinguifhed of
the Tchouktchis, and afterwards tea ferved, with bif-
cuit made of rye. Their Chief, or Prince, named
; Che-
60 ‘TRAVELS FROM
Chegouiagua, who was equal in rank and authority
to Tummé, with two of his relations, and his two
- wives, who ferved as interpreters, fupped with M. de
Lefleps. The repaft was very frugal, but very chear-
ful. Want of reft feparated them, and they went
away as contented as if they had the beft cheer fn the
world.
© The camp of thefe Tchouktchis, whch confifted of
a dozen tents, {tretched along the border of the river,
near their equipages, and at the back of the wood.
The tents were of a fquare form, made of rein deer
fkin, and fufpended by leather ftraps to poles planted
at the four corners. Bundles of lances and arrows
were fixed in the fnow, to defend the entrance of
each, which was very low, and fo clofely faftened as
to exclude air. The dread of being furprized in the
night by the Koriacs, made them take this precaution.
As for the beds, they refembled thofe of the Kamt-
fchadales ; which were merely thin branches of trees
fpread like litter, and covered with deer fkin. And
there, in a fpace fo narrow, that it was not ealy to
conceive how fo many could croud, a whole family
flept, without the fmalleft attention to age or fex.
The air was therefore very offenfive ; and, it muft be
fufficient to fay, that they were indolent, and not
very cleanly. —
In the number of the Tchouktchis, which might
be forty, were fifteen or fixteen women, with as many
children, who were occupied in preparing the tents
and victuals. Polygamy, or, rather, a promifcuous
intercourfe, was licenfed among them; and it was
even a politenefs to compliment their guefts with their
wives and daughters. A refufal was deemed an in-
fult. Each of the principal perfonages had his fer-
vant to take care of the deer, and to defend them in
the night again{t the wolves, which infeft thofe
coafts. Fes
The drefs of the women was fingular. It confiftea
| of
-of a fin
‘their fh
it was
fcended
low the
ing at tl
was by
chin, a
travel t
boots m
which ig
on the
the fore
trefles.
orname
cold, t
The
agreeab
pleafing
but not
clumfy
and wat
ufe: th
The
out any
the wor
fledges,
thofe o!
Thef
giga. —
_ of autu
beginni
their bi
fet out
vantage
ever, t|
The ar
with t
KAMTSCHATKA.
-of a fingle deer fkin, which hung to the rieck, where
it was open ‘before and behind, and where it de-
fcended in the form of large breeches or trowfers be-
low the knee. It was put on by means of the open-
ing atthe neck; and the only way of taking it off,
was by untying the ftrings which faftened it under the
chin, and it then dropt down altogether. When they
travel they wear a kouklank: over this habit, with
boots made of the legs of the rein-deer. : Their hair,
which is a deep black, is fometimes tied up in tufts,
on the back of the head; but oftener fepirated on
the forehead, and hanging down their tides in long
treffes. Their ears and necks are loaded with glafs
ornaments of different colours; and when they are
cold, the hood of the parque ferves as a covering,
The counteninces of the women have nothing
agreeable: their features are large, but ftill more
pleafing than the Kamtfchadales They are taller,
but not fo flender; and their drefs gives them a
clumfy air. Meantime the hardeft labour falls to
‘their fhare ; fuch as lighting the fire, carrying wood,
and water, and every thing neceflary for houfehold
ufe: the old ones, principally, are thus employed.
The features of the men were more regular, with-
out any thing Afiatic. Their complexion, as well as
the women’s, was very fwarthy ; and their drefs, their
fledges, all their cuftoms,. in fhort, were exactly like
thofe of the wandering Koriacs.
Thefe Tchouktchis take every year a journey to In-
giga. ‘They leave their own country in the beginning
of autumn, and do not arrive at that fettlement till the
beginning of March. The moment they have finifhed
their bufinefs, for which a few days is fufficient, they
fet out on their return, that they may not lofe the ad-
vantage of travelling in fledges. It is feldom, how-
ever, that they reach home before the end of June.
The articles of merchandize which they carry out
with them, are parques, made of fable or of fox
| fkins ;
62 ‘TRAVELS PROM
fkins ; and the teeth of the morfe, which produce
excellent ivory. In exchange they take kettles, to.
bacco, lances, fufils, knives, and other inftruments of
iron. Little accuflomed yet to the fufil, they do not
make much ufe of it; but, on the other hand, they
are exceedingly dextrous in direéting an arrow, or
in the management of a lance : thefe, therefore, are
their principal weapons. Like all the inhabitants of
the north, they are greatly inclined to inebriety ;: and
fuch is their paffion for brandy, that from the moment
any is given to them, you muft keep pouring it out
for them till they are completely drunk. Lefs than
this, they upon as an infult: and will perhaps go
fo far as to ufe menaces and violence, in order to
procure it. ‘They are as ardent fmokers as the Ko.
tiacs, and make ufe of the fame kind of pipe, and
method of filling it.
Determined not to ftop any longer, M. de Leffeps
went at day-break to take leave of the Tchouktchis
in their tents. The parting was tender: they em-
braced him in turn, and he could not but be fully
fenfible of the hofpitable reception he had experienced
among them. He fet out early, in order to go that
day near thirty werfts. Half way he met, on the
fea coaft, with two balagans, and one yourte, inabit-
ed by a family of Koriacs. An hour afierwards he
reached the village of Pareiné, which is not fo large
as Kaminoi, but contains a greater number of peo-
ple, and is commodioufly fituated on the river whence
it takes its name, about three werfts from the place
where it empties itfelf into the fea of Penyina ; which
forms here fo narrow a gulf, that, in fine weather, it
is eafy to fee from one fhore to the other.
The firft perfon M. de Lefleps met in this village
was an old woman of a mixed breed, whofe afflicted
air caught his attention. Compaffion and curiofity
led him to accoft her. His queftions upon the caufe
of her forrow drew from her a piercing cry, and tears
were
were |
pathy «
Fift
with fd
to Par
way b
often
felves,
fame fl
fhelter
the ro:
uled t
were fc
appear
their ft
fake of
had dic
fortuna
edge ¢
fhe anc
tigue,
during
the hea
and pie
unfervi
woman
into he
to furn
to folic
tlowed
how to
but not
tance, |
no othe
Whi
tants o
chief 6:
ed toi
roduce
ents of
do not
, they
Ww, or
‘€, are
ants of
sand
oment
it out
s than
aps go
der to
1e Ko.
+, and
Léfleps
iktchis
y eni-
2 fully
ienced
ro that
n the
nabit-
ds he
) large
f mab.
hence
place
which
er, it
illage
Aicted
riofity
caufe
tears
were
KAMTSCHATKA:
were her only anfwer, Entreaties and a fhow of fym-
pathy obtained at length the recital of her misfortune.
Fifteen days back, herfelf, her hufband and fon,
with feveral triends, had left Ingiga in order to come
to Pareiné to fee their relations. Overtaken in the
way by one of thofe terrible hurricanes, which had
often alarmed M. de Leffeps, the travellers loft them.
felves, and were feparated. ‘The father and fon in the
fame fledge, after wandering a long while in fearch of
fhelter, or for fome mark by which they could recover
the road, utierly perifhed. The greatelt pains were
uled to difcover them, and at the end of two days they
were found buried in the fnow frozen to death, It
spReates from their pofture, that having exhaufted
their ftrength, thefe two unhappy creatures, for the
fake of warmth, had lain down clofe together, and
had died in each other’s arms. ‘The woman, more
fortunate than her hufband, had found fhelter on the
edge of a river fifteen werfts from Pareiné, where
fhe and her companions arrived, worn out with fa-
tigue, and overwhelmed with grief. She added, that
during the tempeit, they were not able to diflinguith
the heaven from the earth. The fnow froze as it fell,
and pierced their clothes, fo as to render them ncarl
unferviceable ; but what incrcafed the affliction of this
woman, was the not having it in her power to return
into her own country, No one there fecmed difpofed
to furnifh her with the means, which fhe continued
to folicit in vain. At thefe words a torrent of tears
flowed down her cheeks. M. de Lefleps knew not
how to comfort her; he faid all that pity fuggefted ;
but not having it in his power to afford her any aflif.
tance, he left her with regret that he could give her
no other teftimony than barren compaflion.
Whilft he was talking with the woman, the inhabi-
tants of Pareiné had aflembled round him ; and their
chief or prince, whofe name was Youltitka, approach-
ed to invite him to pafs the night in his village,
Something
64 TRAVELS FROM
Something in his countenance confirmed the reports
of his perfidy, and M. de Leffeps gave him to under-
ftand, that he had no defire of topping. On this re-
fufal; he obfetved the impoffibility of procuring dogs
or provifion till the morning. ‘Yhe reafons he affign-
ed plainly fhowed an evil difpoñition. And his ill
treatment of a failor who had been fent the preceding
year with letters from Government, led M: de Leffops
to fufpeët the badnefs of his intentions at prefent. Re-
folved, therefore, to get away at all events, he replied
he muft give up what could not be obtained, but that
nothing fhould oblige him to ftay. Youltitka pre-
tended not to underitand him; und mentioned a frefh
obftacle ; at the fame time putting on a contemptu-
ous fmile which feemed to defy his departure. M.
de Lefleps perceived the neceffity of arming himfelf
with more refolution, or of fubmitting to whatever
this villain might think proper to impofe. ‘The whole
village was prefent. Two hundred men at leaft preff-
ed tumultuoufly upon him, either to ftrike him with
terror, or to obferve his embarraffment. In this pe-
rilous conjuncture, he thought of addrefling them in
the Ruffian language; hoping that in the number
there might be fome who would underftand him, and
who would be more tractable than their chief,
His harangue was fhort, but earneft. Afferting
his right as a ftranger to their affiftance, and urging
the refpect which his conduét had never failed to in-
fure from all their countrymen; that far from ever
having occafion to intreat or to fhow the orders he
carried, his demands had always been prevented.
At the word orders, he perceived the people look
at each other with aftonifhment ; and in prorortion
as his difcourfe feemed to make an impreffion on
them, he increafed his warmth and affurance. Till
at length taking out his paffport, and darting an in-
dignant look on Youltitka, he prefented it to him, and
declared that he fhould go on in two hours at molt.
This |
to def
nary ¢
power
been :
pentec
He w:
in cafe
The
feat of
ferved
very 1
of thi
report
round
with t
tions,
his fa
M.
imfelf
atever
whole
prefl-
| with
is pe-
em in
amber
1, and
prting
reg
to in-
ever
prs he
look
ortion
on on
Till
an in-
1, and
molt.
This |
KAMTSCHATKA. 65
This abrupt conclafion difconcerted him. He faw
that he could not fafely hold out any longer. ‘The
Governor’s mandate was too formal and too direét for
him to dare to oppofe it. He, therefore, ordered
the quantity of fifh, that M. dé Leffeps requefted, to
be collected, begging him at the fame time to have
fome:regard to the fcantinefs of their provifions, which
would thus be greatly diminifhed. It was that, he
fdid, had led him to thtow any difficulties in the way;
as he was afraid their ftores would be exhaufted. But
this was 4 mere fubterfuge, there being fufficient proof
that they were abundantly provided.
Meantime, to look as if he meant to make amends
for his uncivil reception, he invited M. de Leffeps to
wait in his yourte while the people were preparing for
his departure. Unwilling to fhew any figns of unea-
finefs, M. de Lefleps accepted the invitation, and of:
fered.to give him a better repaft than he could proba-
bly provide. He was not, however, perfectly at his
eafe, when he found, that to go into this yourte, he had
to defcend fifty feet under-ground. ‘lhe extraordi-
nary depth of this retreat gave him up at once to the
power of his hoft. His own people would never have
been able to hear him nor to fuccour him. He re-
pented his imprudence, but there was no time to recede.
He was well armed, and prepared to defend himfelf,
in cafe of infult.
The firft care of Youltitka was to place him in the
feat of honour; that is, in the alcove, or recefs, re-
ferved for the head of the family, which here was
very mumerous, there being nearly eighty inhabitants
of this yourte! They had all been drawn out by the
report of M. de Leffeps’ arrival, and ftill remained
round his attendants ; fo that he had fingly to contend
with three or four of Youltitka’s companions or rela-
tions, who examined him with their nofes almoft in
his face. Imagining they talked the Ruffian lan-
guage wonderfully well, becaufe they could lamely
Vol. IT. (E) utter
66 TRAVELS FROM
utter a few words, they afked him the abfurdeft quef.
tions, one after another. His fituation made com-
plaifance highly neceffary, and he anfwered them with
politenefs and precifinn. An hour was pañled amidit
thefe barbarous animals, who were formed to intimi-
date, particularly their Chief, than whom it is difficult
to imagine a man more completely ugly. He was fat
and fhort, his face feamed with the fmall-pox, befides
other wounds; he had a fullen countenance, ‘with
black hair that joined enormous eye-brows, under.
which was one eye only, funk and fierce. Such was
the exact portraiture of this Koriac Prince.
M. de Leffeps’ foldier had not entered the yourte,
and he began to be very uneafy. In attempting to
go out, the Koriacs placed themfelves before him;
and one of them took him by the arm, to make him
refume his feat, afking, at the fame time, if he want-
ed to fave himfelf. He put a good face upon it, and
fat down again; and, in fpite of the alteration,
which could not but be feen in his countenance, he
replied, that he did not imagine there was any thing
to fear. Youltitka then endeavoured to give him confi-
dence ; he affured him that he was in perfect fafety ;
his paft conduct, he added, might have appeared fuf-
picious ; but he thought it neceffary for his honour to
clear that up. Proud of having had a feat among
the judges of the tribunal at Ingiga, he had his re-
putation too much at heart to fuffer M. de Leffeps to
be ill treated before him.
M. de Leffeps knew his man too well to place any
faith in fuch fine proteftations, and thought himfelf
happy that Youltitka dared not to do what he might,
and what he probably wifhed to do. He hifted then
to quit the yourte, under pretence of feeing where
his people were, and to give direétions for dinner.
Still he could not rid himfelf of this perfidious Ko-
riac, who perfifted in accompanying him whilft he
was aflembling his fuit. Every word feemed to alarm
him ;
KAMTSCHATKA. 67
him; and not underftanding Ruffian, he required an
immediate interpretation, and watched every motion
with fingular attention.
M. de Leffeps found his pere occupied in: barter-
ing the bad dogs that were left, for furs and clothing
of deer-fkin. Their avarice had made them forget his
commands, and the danger in which they had left
him. He, however, concealed his difpleafure, on
account of the witneffes, and defcended again into
the yourte, followed by Youltitka and his two fol.
diers, who immediately fet themfelves to get dinner.
The women affifted in cleaning the difhes, which they
did with the fcrapings of a ftick, inftead of a cloth
or towel ; and, by degrecs, with the help of brandy,
good humour took place of fear and diftruft. They
made a joyous repaft, and M. de Leffeps prevailed on
himfelf to join their violent fits of laughter, in order
to convince them of his fatistaétion. A boifterous
expreffion of fentiment is the only thing that ¢leafes
them. The dinner ended, he fent one of hi: foldiers
to order the dogs to be harneffed, a par: of which had
been recruited ; the provifions were loided, and in
ten minutes he was ready to bid the Koriacs adieu,
They appeared very much fatisfied with him, whether
they were fo or not. As for M de Leffeps, he was
perfectly fo in being delivered from them. and was
off as faft as poffible. It was only two o’clock, and
he thought it proper to take advantage of the reft of
the day, for the lofs of time he had unavoidably en-
dured ; and therefore would not ftop till he had gone
fifteen werfts from Pareiné.
The road, that and the following day, offered no.
thing remarkable. For fome time he had lived upon
the flefh of rein-deer, which, though de’icaie food,
eafily cloyed. The worft was, that but litile of it re-
mained ; fo that they eat it but once a Jay, and made up
‘their other meals with dried ‘ith, and {ea-wolf boiled.
To day, which was the 3oth, M. de Leffeps killed a
: (E 2) brace
68 TRAVELS PROM
brace of partridges, and added them to the ftew.
The weather was remarkably fine, and the hopes of
its continuance raifed the fpirits of the guides, and
tempted them to make a good day's work. They did
not halt till very late, in a fpot quite unfheltered,
finding on ya kind of {mall cedar tree, which grew
fraggling and crooked.
On the 3:ft, they had juft, packed up the tents,
when they defcried a train of five fledges of Koriacs,
drawn by rein:deer. The dogs, allured by the fcent
of thefe animals, made after them with aftonifhing
ardour, and would have infallibly fallen upon them,
had they been within reach. It was with difficulty
that they were reftrained; and M. de Leffeps and his
party endeavoured to make the Koriacs underftand
that al they wanted was a moment’s converfation
with them. A council was held, and, after fome
minutes, one of them was detached towards M. de
Leffeps, but ftopped at the diftance of about three
hundred paces, and made figns for him to fend one of
his people to meet him, and above ail, to keep in the
dogs. One of the foldiers was therefore fent on. to
the Koriac, to enquire what road they were going,
whence they came, whether they knéw any thing
relative to M. Kafloff, and, principally, how far they
were from Ingiga?
In half an hour the meflenger returned with the
information, that they were wandering Koriacs, re-
turning from Ingiga, whither they had been to fell
their deer-fkins, and to fee their friends . They
thought they had heard of a reiuforcement of dogs
and provifions having been lately fent to the Gover-
nor General, but they were not certain. The dif-
tance from Ingiga was faid to be from fifty to fifty-
five werfis.
It was now fix o’clock in the morning, and in the
courle of this day’s journey, which M. de Leffeps
hoped would carry him to Ingiga, he greatly ailonifh-
ed
‘guides
conjur
mifes ¢
aliurin
o'clock
quarte
ciently
- and r
half p:
afcribit
magic
Ingi
town 1
a rive
mo th
aftonif
woode:
Each «
of ami
day, as
of whi
oblive
furpril
and m
volt, 2
pected
make :
them t
fquare.
wood :
and uy
KAMTSCHATKA. 69
ed and diverted his people, by undertaking to condu&
them by means of his compafs, telling the guides to
acquaint him only if they fh:uld lofe their way. By
half paft eight a violent tempeft, which M. de Leffeps
‘had predicted, feem d to be coming on apace, and
drove fe.eral of the fledges out of the road, The
‘guides, blinded by the wind, became terrified, and
conjured him to halt; but he only re: ewed his pro-
mifes and his orders, and the fituatio\ of Ingiga hav-
ing been pointed out to him, perfifted in going on;
aliuring them that if they did not arrive there by nine
o'clock, he would go no farther that night. At a
quarter before nine the f reft of Ingiga was fuffi-
ciently difcered. They had then no with to ftop,
and :rofling the river that rin under the walls, at
half paft eleven they ente‘ed the town ; not without
afcribing to M. de Lefleps the grearelt proficiency in
magic which they had ever witneffed.
Ingiga was the molt confider ible and moft populous
town M. de Lefleps had yet feen. It is fituate i upon
a river of the fame name, thirty werlts from its
mo th, encompaffed in a fquare of palifades of an
aftonifhing height and thicknefs. ani defended by
wooden baftions raifed on piles ac the four angles.
Each of thele baftions, armed with cannon and plenty
of ammunition, is guarded by fentine!s night and
day, as are alfo the three gates of the town, one only
of which is kept open. ‘Thefe fentinels are conftantly
oblised to obferve the greateft alertnefs, for fear of a
furprife from the neighbouring Koriacs, whofe bold
and mutinous difpofition frequently leads them to re-
volt, and to attack the town in a moment of fuf-
pected negligence; they are therefore not fuffered to
make any ftay in the town, whenever bufinefs leads
them thither. Before the Governor’s houfe is a {mall
fquare, defended by 2 guard. ‘The houfes were all of
wood and low ; but they had all a front nearly regular,
and upon the fame plan. It was the intention of M.
(E 3) Gaguen
70 . TRAVELS FROM
Gaguen to improve and beautify the town by degrees.
The ifbas, built fince his arrival, joined to an agree-
able appearance all the interior advantages of which
fuch habitations were capable. He had alfo a project
to rebuild the church, the conftruétion of which was
fhockingl; it was, befides, going to decay,
The town contained from four to five hundred in-
habitants, who were either traders, or in the fervice
_of government : the latter formed the major part,
and compofed the garrifon. They were fubject to a
fevere difcipline, which the frequent neceffity of de-
fence rendered indifpenfible. In this refpe& the vi-
gilance and zeal of the governor left nothing want-
ing. There were the fame tribunals as at Nijenei-
-Kamtichatka.
Furs, and principally the fkins of the rein-deer,
make the trade of Ingiga; and, in general, they
have a greater diverfity of fkins, and thofe of a fupe-
rior quality, than are to be found at Kamtfchatka. It
is in that ifland that.they get the fkins of the otter and
of the fea-wolf ; but the fables are not fo beautiful as
at Ingiga, though they are more common. Befides,
the Kamtfchadales have no common martens, or Ame-
rican rats, called riflei, which the Koriacs procure in
exchange from their neighbours the Tchouktchis, and
which they import to Ingiga with their deer fkins,
Thefe they fell raw, and at a good price: they are
_ afterwards tinned, and prepared with fo admirable an
art, as to defy the want of Euiopean inftruments.
Gloves and ftockings are remarkably well made.
. Their fewing and embroidery is done with the hair of
the rein deer, with filk or gold, and would do credit
to the moft dextrous glover.
At Ingiga M. de Leffeps met with a Koriac Prince,
named UOumiavin, whom he had bcfore feen at Kami-
noi- He was alfo a zafsédatel, or Ingiga judge, and
had come hither to offer his fervices to M. de Leffeps.
He was a moft intelligent man, fpoke the Ruffian lan-
guage
rees.
pree-
hich
oject
was
d in-
rvice
part,
to a
’ de-
e vi-
vant.
enei-
deer,
they
[upe-
lt
and
ul as
ides,
\me-
re in
and
kins,
y are
le an
ents.
lade.
ir of
redit
ince,
ami-
and
Teps.
lan-
uage
KAMTSCHATKA. 71
guage perfectly well, and appeared to have great rec-
ti.ude of mind. His notions of religion were ex-
traordinary ; having a great defire to become a Chrif-
tian, but f r fome favourite tenets belonging to there-
ligion of his country ; particularly its offering, as he
faid, more hope than fear, and confinirg ts punifh-
ments to the prefeni world, with the expe:tation of
happinefs only in the next. He was brother to a
Chief of the wandering Koriacs, and from him M.
de Lefleps got much information refpeéting that peo-
ple in general.
There is, in many refpeëts, a great refemblance be-
tween the fixed and windering Koriacs. It appears
the more ftrange that there fh ould be fo little union,
and fuch a miiunderftanding between them, as to
make them almoit two different people. They are,
neverthelefs, of one country, which is of vaft ex-
tent ; bounded towards the fouth by the peninfula of
Kamtfchatka and the gulf of Pengina, on the eaft by
the country of the Oluierians, towards the north by
that of the Tchoukichis, and on the weft by the Toun-
goufes, the Lamouts, and the Yakouts.
It was afferted that that country had formerly been
well peopled, but that the fmall-pox had taken off
great numbers. M. de Leffeps doubied whether it
had deftroyed more than their frequent contefts with
the Ruflians and their other neighboutrs. The num-
ber of fixed Koriacs was then eftimated at nine hun-
dred ; and though it was hardly poffible juftly to cal-
culate that of the wanderers, they were not fuppofed
much to exceed the former.
The manners of the fixed Koriacs had nothing efti-
mable ; they were a mixture of duplicity, of diftruft
and avarice. They had all the vices. of the nations
north of Afia, and none of their virtues. Robbers
by nature, they were fufpicious, cruel, without either
benevolence or pity. To obtain any fervice from
them, it was not only neceflary to offer them a recom-
; É (E 4) pence,
72 TRAVELS FROM
pence, but to give it beforehand. Nothing but pre.
fents can prevail on ther:to ftir. |
With a difpofition fo perfidious and favage, it was
not eafy for them to live in peace, nor to form any
lafting alliances with their neighbours. So unfoci-
ab'e a temper made them naturally jealous of foreign
dominicn. Hence their continual infurreétions againft
the Ruffians, their atrocious robberies, their daï y in-
curfions upon the people round them, and that re-
aay vengeance which was continually fhowing it-
felf.
1f any thing can add to this abominable piéture, it
was that inflexibility of courage, deferving rather the
name of barbaiifm, that directed all their combats,
and that was attended with a contempt of life. No-
thing intimidated them. If the valour or number of
their enemies threatened danger, they then fwore to
“ deftroy the fun.” An oath which they difcharged,
by firft killing their wives and children, and burning
all their poffeffions, and then throwing themfelves
with fury into the midft of the enemy. The total
deftruction of one of the two parties ends the con-
teft. The vanquifhed never think of faving themfelves
by flight. Honour forbids this to the Koriacs, not
one of whom will furvive the death of his compa-
nions.
Their acquaintance with the Ruffians had not yet
produced any change in the manner of life of the fixed
Koriacs. Their trading intercourfe had only made
them fenfible of the attraction of riches and plunder ;
and indifferent to the advantages ef a more polifhed
life, 1hey rejeéted civilization, confidering their own
manners and cuftoms as good as poffible. Hunting
and fifhing are their habitual occupations ; but when
the feafon will vot allow this, they fhut themfelves
up in their caves, to fleep, fmoke, and get drunk,
Carelefs of the future, and without regret for the
patt, they leave their yourtes only when urgent ne-
ceflity
ceflity
like t
fat of
18 CO
in the
marro
are de
deer i
vegete
berrie
veragé
the «i
which
cating
poifo
This i
it has
feaft,
is exp
they e
tempe!
faw fo
culty.
The
gular.
in wh
Am
of cot
has fiz
of his
the te
up wi
hardly
Her r
where
of her
the or
fkin.
1 Os wo POO D fiw 0 De
b
KAMTSCHATKA. 73
ceffity conftrains them. Foes to labour, they live,
like the Kamtfchadales, on dried fifh, the flefh and
fat of the whale, and of the fea-wolf ; one of which
is commonly eaten raw, the other dried and cooked
in the fame manner as the fifh; but the finews, the
marrow, and the brains, often pieces of the fieth,
are devoured raw with barbarous avidity. The rein-
deer is their highcft efteemed food. They have alfo
vegetables, and gather in the autumn different forts of
berries, with fome of which they make refrefhing be-
verages, and others are bruifed and kneeded up with
the oil of the whale or fea-wolf. Inftead of brandy,
which is dear and fcarce, they have a liquor as intoxi-
cating, made of a red mufhroom, ufed in Ruffia as a
poifon to deftroy infeëts, and, called moukhamorr,
This is put into a veffel with certain fruits, and before
it has time to get clear, the friends. are invited to a
feaft, which lafts two or three days, or tiil the liquor
is expended ; and often, to infure the lofs of reafon,
they eat the mufhroom raw. The effe&s of this in-
temperance were feldom fatal, though M. de Leffeps
faw fome made feverely ill, and recovered with diffi-
culty.
The women carry their children in a cradle of a fin-
gular form. It is a kind of bafket with an arched top,
in which the child fits under cover.
Among their moft extraordinary cuftoms, are thofe
of courtfhip and marriage, As foon as a young man
has fixed his choice, he prefents himfelf to the parents
of his miftrefs, and offers to work for them: that is
the term, From that moment the girl is fo covered
up with a great number of garments, that her face is
hardly to be feen. She is never alone an inftant,
Her mother and feveral elderly matrons follow her
wherever fhe goes, lie at her fide, and never lofe fight
of her on any pretence. All the care of the lover, as
the only means of obtaining her, is to touch her naked
fin, Meantime he fulfils, with zeal and refignation,
the
74 TRAVELS FROM
the duties impofed upon him by the parents. Become
the flave of the family, he is employed in every kind
of domeftic labour ; fuch as going to cut wood, car-
rying water, and providing ice. Love. and the pre-
fence of his future wife, fupply him with refolution ;
and a fingle regard, however indifferent, makes him
forget the fatigue and pain of fervitude. The hope of
abridging this directs all his actions. His eye is
conftantly fixed on the idol of his heart ; he watches
all her motions, purfues her fteps, and inceffantly
throws himfelf in ae way. But to deceivethe Argus
eyes of thofe furrounding her, is a continued {truggle
between vigilance and addrefs. In moments of lei-
fure, at liberty to fee and approach his miftrefs, he
fometimes endeavours to obtain his end by ftealth ;
but the number and thicknefs of her clothes is an in-
fuperable barrier. Enraged by fo many obftacles, he
tears and pulls off thefe vexatious coverings. Woe
be to him if he is caught! The mother and the in-
flexible duennas force him to quit his prize, with
kicks or with a ftick. Should he refift or murmur,
he is immediately difcarded, and lofes for ever the
hopes of an alliance, which is the higheft affront an
amorous Koriac can receive. Difficulties, however,
fharpen his defire. Far from complaining, or being
difcouraged by thefe rigours, he believes he fhall, on
that account, become more worthy of the happinefs
which is promifed him. Two or three years are fre-
quently paffed before his difficulties are furmounted.
P oud of a viétory, he haftens to announce it to the pa-
rents The: witneffes are fummoned, the girl muft
confefs, and muft prove that fhe in vain made efforts
to defend herfelf, though it is not impoffible that,
equally defirous with her lover to put an end to this
l.borious novitiate, fhe acknowledges herfelf touched
before it has really happened. Her hand is then
given to the conqueror, who is ftill obliged to wait
till he is aflured that the young lady can prea upon
erfe
KAMTSCHATKA, 75
herfelf to live with him. From this moment. he is
exempt from all labour, and pays his court, without
conftraint, to his future bride, who is not forry ta
find herfelf delivered from her weight of clothing.
Thijs fecond courtfhip feldom lafts long. She foon,
in the prefence of her family, gives her confent, and
that is fufficient to eftablifh the righis of a hufband.
The ceremony and the nuptial feaft end the bufinefs,
by afiembling the relations, who emuloufly get drunk
after the example of the new married couple, A plu-
rality of wives was interdiéted among the Koriacs,
though M. de Leffeps had feen inftances of it,
At their funerals they adhere to many ancient
Pagan inftitutions, ftill in ufe among the diffe-
rent barbarous nations of the new hemifphere.
When a Kori:c dies, his next of kin, and his friends,
affemble to pay him the laft duties. A funeral pile is
prepared, on which is depofited a part of the riches
belonging to the defun&, as well as fome kind of food,
fuch as rein-deer, fifth, brandy; in a word, all that it
is thought will be neceflary for his great journey,
and to prevent his dying of hunger in the other world.
If it is a wandering Koriac, his rein-deer draw him
to the pile; if one of the fixed tribe, he is drawn by
his dogs, or carried by his relations. The body is
expofed, clothed in the beft garments of the deceafed,
and laid in a kind of coffin. There the lait farewel is
made by the affiftants, who, armed with torches, con-
fider it an honour to reduce their relation or friend to
afhes as quickly as poffible. His lofs is felt only as a
temporary abfence, and not as an eternal feparation.
They have no mourning, and the funeral pomp is
terminated by a feaft of the family, where the fumes
of liquor and tobacco efface, by degrees, the remem.
brance of the dead! After a few months of widow-
hood, the women are allowed to marry again.
The religion of thefe people, which is exactly that —
of the Tchouktchis, and of the Kamtfchadales before
the
76 TRAVELS FROM
the introduction of Chriftianity, teaches them the ac-
knowledgment of a Supreme Being, the Creator of
all things, who inhabits the fun. ‘They neither fear
this Being nor adore him. No prayer is ever ad-
drefled to him. His effence is goodnefs, and he can
do noill. He is the caufe of all good.
The p incipal of evil is a wicked fpirit, who divides
the empire of natureswith the former. Their power
is equal In proportion as one ftudies the happinefs
of mankind, this other endeavours to render him mi-
ferable. Difeafes, tempefts, famine, and all kinds of
plagues are his work, and the inftruments of his ven-
geance. Todifarm him of this, perfonal interet is en-
gaged, and devotion applied. tear, with which this
. menacing deity arrefts the heart, is the fentiment that
diétates homage. To him they offer animals newly
born, rein-dee:, dogs, the firft fruits of hunting and
fifhing, with every thing particularly precious. The
only prayers addreffed him are thofe of petition and
thankfgiving. But he has neither temple nor fanc-
tuary in which his votaries can aflemble. He is every
where equally adored. He hears the Koriac who
prays alone in the defart, as well as the family who
think to render him propitious by getting pioufly
drunk in the yourte. For the habit of inebriety is
become, with thefe people, a religious practice, and
the foundation of every folemnity.
This demon, this formidable fpirit, is, without
doubt, the fame as the Koutka, of whom the Kamt-
fchadale chamans call themfelves the minifters and
organs. Here, as in that peninfula, the myfterious
language of thefe forcerers impofe ‘upon the credu-
lity, and attract the refpe& of the multitude. They
exercife medicine and furgery with the fame fuccefs.
Thefe exclufive funGions, which are fuppofed to be
affifted by infpiration more than by the help of expe-
rience, infure them unbounded power. They as
ee | calle
KAMTSCHATKA. 77
called upon from all parts, and teftimonies of acknow-
ledgment prodigally lavifhed on them in advance.
They haughtily exaét what they pleafe, and receive as
a tribute. whatever. is given them. It is always under
the title of an offering to the God who fpeaks through
them, that they appropriate to themfelves the beft and
the fineft of what the inhabitants of this country pof-
fefs. ‘Ihey pretend to faft the whole! day preceding
any, of their magic ceremonies; but in the evening
they make amends by eating and drinking abundantly
of the moukhamorr, that intoxicating poifon already
defcribed. |
The pronunciation of the Koriacs has na affinity ta
that of the Kamtfchadales ; it is more fhrilland flower,
but lefs painful, having none of thofe extraordinary
founds, thofe whiftlings, which are as difficult to ute
ter as to write. :
From the time of M. de Lefleps’ arrival at Ingiga,
M. Gaguen, at his intreaties, had been providing the
means of his departure as foon as poffible. Had it
depended on himfelf, he would not have ftopt more
than four and twenty hours; but unfortunately his
dogs were harrafled, and a very fmall number could
be procured inthe town, and they no better. It wag
therefore propofed, that he fhould: take rein-deer, to
which he readily agreed, as a quicker method of tra-
velling, though more hazardous and: fatiguing.
In order to fati:fy his impatience, and’ enable him
to purfue his journey with as few obftacles as poflible,
M. Gaguen refolved to confult with the Chiefs of the
wandering Koriacs that were in the neighbourhood ;
and in confequence fent an invitation to them. In
two days twelve of thefe Princes arrived with feveral
other Koriacs, whom the Governor had equally ape
prifed. |
After the ufual compliments, M. de Leffeps was
prefented to the aflembly ; at the fame time, an intcr-
preter fummarily explained to them who he was, the
importance
78 THAVELS FROM
importance of his embafly, and the need he had of
their affiftance, A ange murmur fucceeded this
fhort explanation. They defpifed the orders of go-
vernment, and alledged that the fixed Koriacs were as
much bound to convey ftrangers as they. Their re-
monftrances, which feemed to be well founded,
though ill humoured, greatly difconcerted M, de Lef-
feps, till an old Prince took up his caufe, and pro-
mifed if any of them would conduct him to his dwel-
lings he would carry him on as far as might be ne-
ceflary. This addrefs brought them to their fenfes,
and covered them with confufion. E ch endeavoured
to excu'pate himfelf, and M. de Leffeps had excufes
and offers in abundance. There was even a conten-
tion who fhould tranfport him and his effeéts as far
as the Stoudenaia-reka, or Cold River, on the borders
of which dwelt the kind Piince who had at firft fo
willingly entered into his fervice. Every difficulty
vanifhed ; and his departure was fixed for the 5th of
April, on which day the whole affembly undertook
to attend his orders. M. de Leffeps was delighted to
find that the perfon to whom he was fo particularly
indebted, was the brother of Oumiavin, with whom
he had fo much wifhed to be acquainted.
From this inftant M. Gaguen put every thing in
motion for his departure. He had a number of
fmall loaves. of wheat made, with a fupply of rye
buifcuit. A portion of eatables, referved for his own
ufe, was put up with the baggage, and feveral prefents,
offered with a politenefs and warmth that made it im-
pofible for M. de Leffeps to refufe them.
It was not till towards night, on the sth, th:t the
perfons, who had agreed to conduc M. de Leffeps,
made their appearance ; and the next day, being Sun-
day, nothing could prevail on them to fet out, till M.
Gaguen got the better of their fuperftitious fears by
the help of brandy. Two of the foldiers, who had
come with M, de Leffeps from Kaminoi, remained at
l | Ingiga,
Yngi
thet
and 2
cliof
as O
for h
Evia
falle
T
be we
to fa
long,
which
of a
is no!
two |
width
{mall
the fr
laths,
fubft:
tremi
and a
part «
point
back
chaif
ina
carri
KAMTSCHATKA. 79
Ingiga, which was their ordinary refidence. The two
others, Golikoff and Nédaréroff, went on with him 3
and a young Ruffian merchant, of the name of Kifs-
clioff, who had afked permiffion to accompany him as far
as Okotfk, and who proved an agreeable companion.
When the fledges were ready, M. de Leffeps found
for his immediate conductor a Koriac Prince, named
Eviava, who expreffed great joy at the honour that had
fallen upon him, and hafted to join the line.
The following defcription of a Koriac fledge may
be worth reading. Upon two parallel fkates, that is
to fay, on two branches of a tree fix feet and a half
long, three inches wide, and very ill finifhed, of
which the ends in front bend upwards, in the fhape
of a half crefcent, refts the body of the fledge, which
is nothing more than a frame of open work, raifed
two feet and fome inches from the ground. The.
width eighteen inches, and five feet in length. Two
{mall poles, about five inches in circumference, form
the frame of the open work, which is made of large
laths, let in one upon another. A crofs bar, more
fubftantial than thefe poles, unites their forward ex
tremities, which join the arched ends of the fkates,
and are fallened to them with thongs. The lower
part of the open work refts upon curved fticks, the
points of which are regularly fixed in the fkates. The
back of the upper part is fomething like a fmall open
chaife, fixteen inches high, and two feet deep, made
in a circular form, with fhort fticks, in the manner of
a garden chair. In this narrow enclofure the provi-.
. fions are commonly put, or whatever may be wanted
for daily ufe. M. de Leffeps fat here on the box that
contained his difpatches. ‘The driver fits «ftride to-
wards the middle of the carriage, with his feet on the
fates.
Thefe fledges are drawn by two rein-deer abreaft.
The harnefs is a leathern co!lar, from which a trace is.
carried acrofs the breaft, and between the two fore-
legs
80 TRAVELS FROM
legs of the animal, and palling along his fide, to which
it 18 kept by a leather {trap, is faftened to the crofs
iece of the fledge. This is for the deer on the right.
d fide. The trace of that on the left is made faft
to the bottom of one of the crooked fupporters ; the
reins are two thongs faftened round the root of the
horns of each deer, The driver carries alfo a ftick,
armed. at one end with a fort of hammer; which is a
ftone fixed horizontally, very rough at one end, pre-
fenting a point nearly two inches in length. This is
principally ufed to difengage the traces without ftop-
ping, in cafe they fhould become entangled in the
legs or feet of the deer; and in doing which eonfifts
the chief fkill of the driver. The other end of the
bone is round, and is ufed inftead of a whip, but with
more pain to the poor animals, who are fométimes
covered. with ftreams of blood. Thele fticks are very
apt to break, fo that they carry a fupply with them,
which are faftened to the fledge.
At feven o'clock they ftopped half way up a moun-
tain, known to the Koriacs, and marked out as the
place for their firft halt, which does not depend on
the convenience or wifhes of the traveller, but on the
finding a fpot that may afford mofs for the deer, who,
as foon as they were urharnefled, began to fcrape
away the fhow, under which they well knew they
fhould find their food. After a frugal fupper, M. de
Lefleps laid down on the fnow, where having been al-
Towed to fleep a few hours, he was peremptorily calied
upon: to continue his la à |
It may be neceflary to obferve, that the Koriacs will
travel four, five, or fix days, with very little reft, The
rein deer are trained to run night and day, three
hours at a time ; they are then unharnefled\to feed
one hour, after which they go on with undiminifhed
ardour ; and this treatment is continued to the end of
their journey.
Betore remounting, Eviava mentioned to M. de
Leffeps
KAMTSCHATKA. 81
Leffeps the neceffity of lightening his fledge ; and pro-
poled, if he would try to drive himfelf, to take one of
the empty fledges, which they had with them in cafe
of accident. To this M. de Lefleps willingly agreed,
but ic nearly coft him his life Unaccuftomed to the
kind of harnefs, his leg caught in the left trace, and
he was thrown out of the fledge. In his fall he let
o the reins, and the deer no longer feeling reltraint,
increafed their fpecd, and dragged him fome diftance,
with his head knocking againit the fkate. He had loft
his fenfes, but by an involuntary motion of his hand
he caught hold of the reins, and with a fudden check
{topped the deer. In a few minutes his fenfes return-
ed, and he purfued his pro with no other injury
than a contufion on the leg, and a violent head-ache.
He however redoubled his care, efpecially when he
was told by the Koriacs how fortunate he was that
the deer had not betaken themfelves to the moun-
tains, where it might have been three or four days be-
fore they were recovered, if at all.
Qn the left sey faw the village of Kafbanda, fituat.
ed on the fea coaft, ninety werlts from Ingiga. It ap-
peared very inconfiderable at the diftance of one werlt.
Three werlts farther on were two yourtes, and fix ba-
lagans.
They had fill feven werfts to the place deftined for
their halt, which was a wretched hamlet, in the mid.
die of a little wood, watered by the river Noyakhona.
A fingle yourte and three or four balagans compofed
the whole. ‘Thefe were inhabited winter and fum-
mer by ten or twelve Koriacs, who received him kind-
ly ; at leaft they put him under cover, which was a
great thing for a man often reduced to the neceffity of
fleeping under the canopy of heaven on a bed of
fnow.
Qn the evening of the 8th, Eviava, ignorant of the
immediate fituation of the yourte of Oumiavin’s
brother, propofed afcending a mountain on the left,
Vou. II. (F) at
82 TRAVELS FROM
at the top of which he hoped to meet with one of his
countrymen, who would be able to give him inftrut-
tions. In an hour and a halt they reached the fum-
mit, where nota veftige of any habitation was to be
feen. M. de Lefleps, greatly fatigued, defired Evia-
va to go in fearch of his friend, while he repofed
-himfelf. In three hours he returned full of joy, hav-
ing found Prince Amoulamoula and all his horde.
They had inftantly prayed that M. de-Lefleps would
ftay where he was till the next mornfng, as they were
all defirous of coming to meet him. This circum-
{tance was not unpleafant, as it gave him almoft a
‘whole night's reft.
At day-break the vifitors appeared. The Chief
firft approached to pay his compliments in the Koriac
manner, accompanying them with a fine red and
black fox fkin, or févadoufchker, which he took from
-under his parque, and begged M. de Lefleps to ac-
cept.. In return for his civility, he treated them all
with brandy and tobacco ; and making them under-
ftand how fenfible he was of their kindnefs, took his
Jeave with every information neceffary to direét his
courfe. :
.. Though the fnow was deep and not very firm, the
deer went on with aftonifhing eafe and lightnefs. They
have the advantage of dogs, as their feet are broader,
ed do not fink fo much. On the other hand, dogs
wo not tite fo foon, and are therefore not obliged to
ftop fo often.
On the way M. de Leffeps killed feveral white par-
tridges, of which there were great numbers. Some
wild rein-deer allo fled fwiftly at his approach. For-
tunately the abundance of his provitions left him
without.any. with of. killing them..
By noon they could diitinguifh the Stoudenaia-re-
ka, and in an hour they had c'offed it, and were ar-
rived at the habitation of this brother of Oumiavin's,
in whofe hands Eviava had undertaken to place them.
* 7 M. de
KAMTSCHATKA. 83
M. de Leffeps’ new hoft met hinr at the head of his
family, who expreffed their fatisfaétion at his arrival.
The addrefs of the old Prince was fhort, .but affec-
tionate, and full of his ufual cordiality. Every thing
belonging to him, he affured M. de Leffeps, was at
his dilpofal ; and all his people were immediately bu-
fied in placing the fledges and effects under cover.
M. de Leffeps thought only of his difpatches, which,
jt was n:ceflary to inform them, he never fuffered any
one to carry but himfelf. ARE aa à
His firit care, after entering the yourte, was to pay
Prince Eviava his poft charg:s. He had twelve fledges,
each drawn by two deer ; the diftance was one hundred
and eighty-five werfts ; the money was therefore feven
roubles and forty kopecks. On receiving this fum
the god conduétor admired his generofity. M. de
Lefleps obferved that it was no more than his due:
the paying it however appeared to him an aét of vir-
tue. Such encomiums led M. de Leffeps to fufpeét
that the Ruffians are fom:thing mére than cconomi-
cal. They affert indeed that their travelling in this
country is not expenfive. 2
The name of the brave Koriac, with whom M. de
Lefleps was now lodged, was Oumiavin, baptized in
his infancy by that of Simeon, which diflinguifhed
him from his brother... He frankly confefl:d that he
had no notion of the Chriftian religion. He was ig-
norant of its duties, and even of its firft principles.
Left to the fenfelefs errors of his own country, and a
few Chriftian ceremonies, which cuftom had taught
him; fuch as making the fign of the crofs, in the
company of Riffians, on en‘ering the yourtes, and
before and after meals; he had happily found in his
heart the rudiments of a natural morality, by which
alone his actions were directed. |
_ Like all the Koriacs, he was of fmal ftature and
fwarthy. His countenance was charatteriftic of his
mind, An expreflion of candour ana goodnefs pre.
ou (F 2) 7 judiced
We
84 TRAVELS FROM
judiced ‘every body in his favour. Added to’this, his
white locks, with the regularity of his features, gave
him truly a diftinguifhed air. He was lame in the
right arm, in confequence of à perilous combat fuf-
‘tained with a bear. Fear had difperfed his compa-
ions, when ‘he alone oppofed the animal, and with
no weapon but his knife, he at length threw him
down atid killed him. Hunting was his great amufe-
ment, in which his {kill and intrepidity rendered him
vey fuccefsful. :
ut the energy of ‘his mind made him particularly
eftimable and itterefting. He had been the firft,
whom the tyranmies practifed ‘by fome of the Ruffian
fubaltern officers over ‘their new fubjeéts, had roufed
to vengeance; atid allembling fome of thofe who,
with himfe'f, had been the greateft fufferers, in an ap-
‘ptopriate fpeech he ‘itnparted to them his defign of
pag Ab complaints to Peterfburgh. The contelt
‘of who thould go was zealous and general. The molt
“wealthy and the ‘boldeft were chofen; at the head of
“who was Oumidvin, on ‘account of his fpeaking the
Ruffian language, which he did with tolerable facility.
‘Artived at Okotfk, where their project had got wind,
‘they -wete totally defeated ‘by court fubtlety; and
obliged to return with the facnfice of the greater part
‘of their wealth, and their déer.
Not difcouraged by this difappointment, Oumiavin
ftill had hopes of ‘accomplifhing his defign; and
thought the expediency of it fully proved by the mea.
fures that had been exerted apaintt It. |
As a farther proof of his generofity, M. de Lefleps
‘gives the following anecdote: The confiderable ex-
pence incurred in the ‘undettaking jult mentioned,
‘had nearly ruined him. Much time was neceflary for
the recruit of his flocks, ‘which, during his abfence,
‘had fallen into decay, from the ‘negligence of their
attendants. Many s:onths ‘before, one of his rela-
tions had loft all his deer, and faw himfelf reduced
: ; #
KAMTSCHATKA, 85
to a flate of lervitude. Simeon, willing to affift him,
had made up a fmall herd, which he lent him with-
out intereft. At his return from his fatal expedition,
notwithftanding his extreme diftrefs, he refufed to
take the deer back, not finding them fufficiently in-
creafed to enable his debtor to return them with cone
venience. |
The greateft riches of this wande:ing tribe is their
deer. The Chief of a horde feldom has fewer than
from two to three hundred; many have three or four
thoufand. Simeon’s flack at this time was between
eight and nine hundred, which made a very pleafing
appearance. ‘They feed on the top of a mountain, in
the neighbourhood of the Stoudenaia-reka, whence
they feldom ftray, and when wanted are caught with-
out difficulty. A particular cry of the keepers draws
them together, when a halter with a running noofe
is thrown over the necks of fuch as they wifh to de-
tain, which is done with great dexterity. The .fe-
male deer are feldom put into harnefs ; and the young
males, deftined to work, are prepared as horfes in ge-
neral are in England.
In a herd there are almoft always three or four deer
that are trained for hunting. The inftiné of this ani-
mal is inconceivable. He carries on the {port as he
feeds. At the fight of a wild deer, without any fign
of joy or furprife, he begins immediately to imitate
him, till he gets near without giving any caufe of fuf-
picion. Prefently they are feen playing together, run-
ning, chafing, and purfuing, till the wild deer is drawn
by degrees within fhot of the fportfman. With a
well taught deer the wild ones are fometimes taken
alive, by means of a fpringe or noofe fufpended to
the horns of the tame deer, who contrives in play to
throw it over the horns of his adverfary, and detains
him in this manner till his mafter comes up.
The habitatiors of thefe wandering Koriacs are very
different from thofe of the fixed tribes, though they
(F 3) have
86 . _ ‘TRAVELS FROM "
have all the common name of yourte. Thofe in’
queftion are, properly fpeaking, tents above ground,
in the form of huts, and are nothing more than a
great number of poles fixed at equal diftances, meet-
ing at the top, and covered round with tanned deer-
fkin till within a few feet of the fummit, where an
aperture is left for the fmoke to efvape, and for the
admiffion of air. The fize of Oumiavin’s was eight
yards in diameter, and nearly as much in height. ‘The
circumference at the bottom was twenty-four yards,
the top terminating like a cone. The family andthe
deer keepers lie under pologs or tents of a fmaller
kind, whi.h are ranged in different apartments round
the wall of the you:te, and refembie the fquare tents
of the Tchoutkis.
This kind of habitation, which is eafily moved, is
perfeatly adapted to the unfettled ftate of thefe people,
who fhift their quarters as convenience or neceflity
dictates ; always choofing the neighbourhood of
rivers, and particularly fuch {pots as abound with
mofs,
Twelve fledges having been prepared at eight
o’clock on the mo ning of the 1oth, M. de Lefeps
continued his journey, accompanied by M. Kiflelioff
and Simeon Cumiavin, who infifted upon being his
guide as far as Yamtk. By noon they croffed the Ta-
vatoma, having travelled twenty-five werfts. Near
this river M. de Leffeps and M. Kiflelioff went a little
diftance out of the way, for the purpole of feeing a
hot fpring, to which Oumiavin directed them, and
which appeared to contain fulphureous and faline par-
ticles ; but the moft fingular circumftance was the
eff. & the water produced upon them. M. Kiffelioff
having wafhed his face with it, had the whole fkin
taken off ; and M. de Lefleps, from flightly rinfing his
mouth, was unable to eat or drink any thing hot for
a long time. Hemte they went on nearly four days
without any remarkable occurrence, and on the 14th,
at
KAMTSCHATKA: 87
at four o’clock’in the afternoon, enteréd the village of
Toumané. It is fituated fouth-weft of Ingiga, at the
diftance of four hundred and forty werlts, in a little
wood, through which a river runs of the fame name.
Vhree yourtes, as many magazines for wood, and
twelve balagans, compoled this oftrog, the population
of which amounted to twenty families. Although
the river abounded with fifh, and with excellent trout
in particular, the inhabitants, from idlenefs or want
of tafle, contented themlelves witi the back of the
birch-tree {teeed in whale oil.
The 15th and 16th they had bad weather ; but had
not this been the cafe, the deer were unable to pro-
ceed further, which Oiniavin difclofed, not without
great tribulation; and by his advice M. de Leffeps
prefled the inhabitants to give him all the dogs they
could find, which was but a {mall number, and among
thefe, from neceflity, were young dogs, and females
on the point of bringing forth. ‘The generofity of
thefe people went fo far as to give up a part of their
provilions of dried fruit, of which they had no great
quantity.
On the 17th the wind abated, though the fky re-
mained charged with bla k threatening clouds, Mean.
time M. de Lefleps having taken leave of the faithful
Simeon, and his holls of ‘Toumané, departed at one
o’clock with his efcort and all his baggage upon five
open fledges, ‘each ‘having eight or ten dogs.
They had fearcely advanced fifteen werfis, when
the {now and the wind compelled them to feek fhel-
ter; and the guides propofed going to a deferted
yourte, which they knew to be at no great diftance.
it was on the banks of a {mall river called Yovanna,
twenty werfts from Vo imané. When they came to
it they were covered with fñow, and nearly frozen.
Every one was for defcending as faft as he could, but
they had firit four feet of fnow to clear away from the
entrance. This was effected by the help of their
rackets in an hour’s time. Still they had no ladder,
(F 4) ~ but
a
A nc rt gi sc à
ES
88 TRAVELS FROM
but the boldéft leaping dows, thé reft followed, and
fell ün the carcafes of fea:wolves entitely frozen, and
fome of them partly devoured ; no doubt by wild
beafts, who, in the depth of winter, had made a
‘den of this yourte. A feine of leather, in one cot-
ner, was the only indication of its having been vi-
fited by human beings. Here however they paffed a
tolerable night, and were detained by the weather,
much againft their wifhes, till the 21ft, when the
bare poflibility of proceeding hurried them on, though
they had no hopes of any refuge between that and
Yamfk. ‘They bent their courfe towards the fea, on
which they conftantly travelled within two werfts of
the fhore, approaching this at night for the purpofe
of ‘halting. The 23d, at night, they ftopped in a
fine wood of firs, near the river Iter.
On the 23d they met a ferjeant with difpatches from
Okotfk ; and foon after, atabout three werfts diftance,
from iis mouth, the river of Yamfk prefented ‘itfelf.
In following its courfe they difcovered on the right ‘a
habitation of fifhers, ufed only in the fummer ; and
going fix werfts farther, about noon they entered the
village, which is more than one hundred and fifty
werlts from Toumané. Their bifcuit being nearly
confumed, they were not only conftrained to fleep
there, but to remain a part of the next day to re-
cruit their provifions.
The ferjeant, who commanded the garrifon of
twenty men, received M. de Leffeps with great civili-
ty; and, upon the recommendation of the Governor
of Ingiga, hafted to prepare whatever he wanted,
and gave him every neceflary direétion.
The oftrog or fort of Yamfk is on ‘the border ‘of
the river bearing irs name, ten werfts from its mc th,
where it forms a bay that promifes excellent anchor
age; but feveral capes that project a great way, and.a
number of rocks or fhoals, with which its entrance is
‘almoft choked, makes the navigation'‘exceedingly dan-
‘gerous, and hardly to be attempted but with a —_
; Wind.
KAMTSCHATKA. 89
wind. On which account, if the place were more
confiderable or more frequented, fhipwrecks would
probably be more common.
There were twenty-five houfes at Yamfk, built of
wood; and in a part of it, where the church ftands,
was fquare of palifades, like that of Tagiga, but nei-
ther fo high nor fo thick. They reckoned twenty
famiiies, who lived nearly in the manner of the Ruf-
fians.
They had a method of making falt, with which M.
de Leffeps was unacquainted. All the wood thrown
up by the fea is put together with the greateft care,
As foon as it is dry they burn it. The afhes are then
boiled, and the fediment it depofits is a fine white
fait.
A troop of wandering Tongoufes had left Yamk
two days before M. de Leffeps’ arrival. As a confo-
lation for not having feen them, they fhowed him
the full drefs both of men and women. They wear
no chemife, but a kind of ftomacher, which faftens
behind, and defcends as low as the knees, like an
apron. It is embordered with the hair of the rein-
deer, and decorated with glafs beads of various co-
lours. Att the bottom are plates of iron and copper,
and a great number of fmall bells. Under this apron
they have breeches, or pantaloons of fkin ; and in.
ftead of ftockings, their legs are covered with long
boots of rein deer-fkin, embroidered with the hair
on the outfide. . A long waiftcoat covers the fhoul-
ders, ‘and, at the end of the fleeves, gloves are faf-
tened, which are open under the wrift, to admit of
pulling on. This waiftcoat, clofe on the breaft and
fitted to the fhape, reaches to the middle of the
thighs, and is alfo ornamented with embroidery and
glafs beads. From the fall of the back hangs a tail
two feet long, ‘but not thick, made of the hair of the
fea-wolf coloured. The head drefs:confifts of a little
round bonnet, lengthened at the fides to cover the
ears,
90 TRAVELS FROM |
ears. The'whole drefs is the fkin of young rein deer,
trimmed with fable, otters, or furs of equal value.
The drefs of the women is nearly the fame, only it
has neither tail nor gloves,and their cap has an opening
at the top of about two inches diameter, through which
M. de Leffeps thought it probable they put their hair.
In the winter they wear thick fur cloathing, but they
are careful, for fear of injuring it, to change their drets
the moment they enter the yourtes, and to put on their
worit garments, and upon the moft trifling occafions,
they ftrip themfelves quite naked.
‘The heat of the fun on the 24th threatened an ap-
proaching thaw; in confequence of which M. de Lef-
feps furnifhed himfelf with plates of whalebone to
put under the fkates of the fledges in cafe of necellity,
and, by the advice of the people of the country, he
determined to travel by night, and repofe himfelf in
the day-time, whilft the fun was at the height of its
power. He left Yamfk at eleven o’clock at night ;
their caravan confilting of nine large fledges or nartas.
The poft expences are the fame as at Kamtfchatka
for the common fledges, though the teams of the nar-
tas are double in number.
By break of d:y they found themfelves at the bot-
tom of one of the higheft mountains fifty werfts from
Yamfk. The Koriacs had given it the name of Ba-
boufchka or the grandmother ; and they fay that on
the fummit is the tomb of an old forcerefs, as famous
as fhe was formdable. Arrived at the top of the Ba.
boufchka, the guides armed their feet with cramps in
the form of {mall tripods, and placed larger ftit ks croff-
ways at the bottom of the fledges to prevent their de-
fcending too fwiftly. No other care was neceflary but
to guide the dogs with the ofchtol or ftick with the
jron end, and they got to the bottom without any ac-
cident. This defcent is, however, thought dangerous
by the inhabitants of.the country, particularly when
the unequal {paces are filled up with fnow, and thus
become
OME
KAMTSCHATKA. gl
become unavoidable gulphs, fatal no doubt to many
travellers. Misfortune or fafety on this occafion may
perhaps be equally attributed to the old forcerefs at
the top of the mountain ; and as fuch prejudices may
excite fear, the Koriacs, as a means of enfuring fafety,
are careful to leave behind them f me offering: Thofe
who attend: d M. de Lefleps were eager to hang up
theirs, which conffted of fmall pieces of tobacco, bits of
fifh, iron, &c.and whichare left in the place where they
fuppofe the forcerefs is at reft. Others before them
had left old pieces of iron, of knives, the broken ends
of arrows and other weapons. M. de Lefleps faw a
- tchouktfchi javelin ornamented with ivory, which he
wifhed to take with a view of keeping it. When one
of the guides ftopped him and cried out, ‘ What are
you going to do? Would you deitroy us? Such a fa-
crilegewould bring on us the greateft misfortunes;
and prevent you from finifhing your journey.”
The firit village they came to ws Srednoi ; whence
they proceeded in the evening with frefh dogs, and the
26th, before nvon, reached Siglann, which itands on
the fide of a river of the fame name, and is the laft
village of the Koriac territories. It is neither larger
nor more populous than Srednoi, from which itis fe:
venty-feven werfts. That fame evening they went on
again, and by three o’clock the next day arrived at
Ola, a Tongoufe oftrog, one hundred and fourteen
wer(ts from Siglann. It is fituated on a fandy fhore
at the mouth of the river Ola, which, widening in this
place, prefents a fmall harbour, to the end of which
the Tongoufes retire in fevere weather. ‘This retreat
they had quitted a few days to take poffeflion of ten
yourt:s, which compole the village of Ola, where they
xemain during the warm feafon. -
Thefe yourtes are not under ground like thofe
of the Kamtfchatdiles, or as the greater part of
the fixed Koriacs; they are alfo longer and better
conftruéted. The poles fupporting the walls are
thicker,
02 TRAVELS FROM
thicker, and they have a ftrait opening at the top of
the roof from one end to the other, ‘The fire place
is in the fame manner extended the length of the houfe.
Eight feet above the fire, which is never fuffered to go
out the whole fummer, they hang their fith and fea-
wolves to be dried and fmoked, which is the chief ad-
vantage of thefe dwellings. ‘Two doors facing each
other from the oppofite ends of the buildings, give
them the power of bringing in trees and large: pieces
of wood for the fupply of the fire. Each family have
their beds in feparate huts at the fides of the yourte.
That which M. de Leffeps entered was partitioned off
with the fkins of fifh properly prepared, fewn together
and painted of different colours, making an odd fort
of tapeftry that was not difagreeable.
The winter yourtes are round and raifed above
ground like thofe of fummer. Large perpendicular
pieces of wood form the walls; they have a floping
roof with a hole at the top for the evaporation of the
fmoke. There is a door at the bottom, and fome have
a kind of gallery in them which breaks the column of
air, fo that the fmoke iflues more freely.
Soon after M. de Leffeps’ arrival at Ola, he was
vifited by feveral women ; fome dreffed in the Ruffian
manner, others like the Tongoufes. Surprifed to fee
them fo fine, he was told it was the village feaft ; and
that it was befides a piece of their coquetry, to appear
dreffed before ftrangers. Among the moft efteemed
ornaments, embroidery with glals beads feemed to
have the preference, which they did with great tafte,
M. de Lefleps obferved one on the boot of a young
girl, the defign of which was admirably light and ele.
gant. It concealed nothing of the beauty of the leg,
which was covered with a pautaloon of fkin perfectly
fitted ; and over it was a kind of fhort petticoat.
There is a ftriking refemblance between the Ton-
goufes and the Ruffians. They have the fame fea-
tures and language. The men are ftrong and
ma Ca
KAMTSCHATKA. 03
made. Among the women are fome Afiatic figures,
but they have neither the flat nor broad countenance
of the Kamtfchadales, or of the generality of the Ko:
triacs. Kindnefs and hofpitality feem to be the cha-
racteriftic qualities of the Tongoufe people. It was
not from a want of zeal that M. de Lefleps was not
furnifhed among them with every thing he wanted ;
but their means are fo circumfcribed, that they could
change a part only of his dogs.
Upon leaving this village they went along the fea,
where the cracking of the ice, now beginning to break
up, gave them many dreadful alarms. At break of
day they reached the main land, in order to go over a
fteep promontory ; in the defcent of which, one of the
guides who was accidently overturned, received fo fe-
vere a wound by falling on his ftick which pierced his
lide, that ihey were obliged to place him on one of
the baggage fledges.
At the foot of the mountain thcy were ftill more
erplexed, by finding the fea already broken up.
hey therefore proceeded along the fhore, till in about
half an hour the man in front called out that he could
not poffibly go any farther. ‘To find a way by land
was out of the queftion, and the only method of croff-
ing a bay now before'them, was, as the guides advifed,
by leaping from one fheet of ice to another. But as
the current had put the pieces of ice in motion, M.
de Lefleps objected to that undertaking, and at length
difcovering a narrow ridge ‘of ice that aühered to the
rocks by which the fea was bounded, and exploring
the way firft himfelf, in feven hours, with immenfe
difficulty and hazard, he got his party over with the
lofs only of one dog, which was indeed a ferious lofs
to the conduétors, as the price of fome dogs was as
high as fifty roubles a piece, and not one fold for lefs
‘than five.
They now proceeded to the village of Armani, at
the foot of which runs a river of the fame name, eighty
one
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125
TRAVELS FROM
94
one werfts from Ola, They pañled on about 309
yards farther, and ftopped at the abode of a Ya.
koute who had lived thirty years in the fame yourte,
which was placed in the midft of an extenfive wood
of firs, and where M. de Leff: ps was told he would
find a beter lodging. In his abfence, his wife re-
ceived them with great kindnefs ; offering them milk,
and a four beverage made of mare’s milk, called kou-
mouifs. Jt was not difagreealle, and the Ruffians,
notwithftanding their fuperititious averfion to what.
ever comes from a:horfe, drank it with, great pleafure.
Meantime the hufband arrived. He was a gcod look.
ing old man, fill full of vigour and health. As foon
as he learned the object of M. de Leffeps’ journey from
his wife, and from the foldier Golikoff, who, being a
native of Yakoutfk, ferved as interpreter, he made
hafte to. prepare for his repofe the beft apartment his
houle afforded. M. de Lefleps was awakened by the |
lowings of a herd that came into the yourte. Eight
cows, a bull, and feveral calves, had a part of the ha-
bitation ; which in {pite of fuch vifitors was neat, and
the air fweet and wholefome. The lie of this Yakoute
was not pañled like that of the Koriacs and Kamtfcha-
dales, in catching and drying fifth, which was a food
he did not efteem. The care of his cattle and hunt-
ing, which were his only occupations, fupplied all his
wants. He had. befides, ten horfes. ‘Vhefe he ufed
for various purpofes, and kept them in an enclofure
at a fmall diftance from the yourte, around which,
every thing befpoke eafe and happinefs. It is not eafy
to fay what charms the appearance of the herd, or
the fight and good flavour of the milk diet gave to the
repatt, but M. de Lefleps thought he had not for a
Jong time feen fuch good cheer. The matter of the
houfe had even the attention, before his departure,
to put fome game on the fledge that carried the pro-
4ifions. .
They feparated the fame evening of the 29th, full
fatil-
KAMTSCHATKA. ‘95
fatisfied with each other, and M. de Lefleps, travelling
all night, got as far as the fort of Taoufk by the next
morning, which was forty two werlts. This oftrog,
‘where according to cuftom, they paffed the day, is
‘upon the river Taou. It contains twenty ifbas, a
fmall church ferved by the minifter of Oxotik, and a
building in which they depofit the tributes, furround-
ed by palifades in the form. of ba!lions. “Twenty Ya-
koutes, two of their Princes, and fome Ko: iacs, whom
the fituation has attracted, make up the inhabitants.
The garrifon confifts of fifteen foldiers, under the
command of a ferjeant named Okhotin, at whofe dwell.
ing M. de Leffeps refted till the evening.
In the night they paffed through the village of Gor.
bé, which is peopled by Yakoutes, and a {mall num-
ber of Koriacs. At day break they loft fight of the
fea, and having for fome time coafted along the Taou
without daring to rifk the ice, they infenfibly ad-
-vanced farther into the country. The firft and fecond
-of May, they travelled acrofs fields and upon the river
‘Kava, without perceiving a fingle habitation. :
The third of May, at the inftant that they were dif-
pofed to make a halt in the middle of a wood of fir
trees, they were overtaken by a ftorm of wind and
{now. A tent fpread over the baggage fledges made
them a fhelter, but it was neceflary to have a fire, and
.the conductors, who undertook to get wood, were bu-
ried up to their waifts in fnow. In the afternoon the
wind fhifted, and the fky was cleared. ‘They there-
fore remounted their fledges, but were obliged to get
-out.in turns to make a patfage for the dogs. pin
The morning of the 4th they pafl.d over the moun-
tain of Iné, two hundred and feventy werfts from
Taoufk, and which is as high as that of the Baboufch-
ka. At the fummitthe coid was fo intenle as to com-
pel them to light a fire. In about five hours they
came again to the fea, whi.h they left fome diftance
from
06 TRAVELS FROM
from 1ké, where they arrived in the dufk of the
evening.
This village is thirty werfts from the mountain
which bears its name, and is peopled by Ruffians and
Yakoutes, who live in ifbas and yourtes; and have the
care of a ftud of more than two hundred horfes, which
they had noticed ten werlts from the village. M. de
Lefleps intended to have changed his teams and have
gone on immediately, but he was unwillingly detained
by the difficulty of procuring dogs. The chief of the
village was dead drunk ; and it was not till after an
hour’s importunity and fearch, that a fufficient number
could be affembled.
At twenty-five werfts from Thé, where, for the fake
of fpeed, M. de Leffeps had left his equipages and
attendants in the care of his faithful Golikoff, with
orders to follow him as faft as poffible, he paffed two
yourtes inhabited by Yakoutes and Tongoufes, in a
hamlet callet Oulbé. Farther on he met feveral con-
voys of flour, which was left at the neighbouring vil-
lages to be made into bifcuit for the fupply of the thips
belonging to M. Billings, of whom there will foon be
occafion to fpeak. :
The fea now made its appearance again, and they
travelled forty-feven werfts without quitting the fhore,
where they faw a whale aground, and feveral fea
wolves. At the top of the mountain of Marikann,
thatis to fay, at the diftance of twenty-five werfts, M.
de Lefleps had the pleafure to difcaver the town of
Okotfk. A guft of wind now threatened to retard
him, but.overcome by impatience, he continued ‘his
route, determined to brave all accidents. His cou-
rage, however, was not put tothe proof. On the fea
coaft he found the air calm, and was able to fatisfy
the curiofty of examining a veflel lately wrecked.
At laft, after erofling the river Okhota in great fear,
while the ice bent under his fledge at every ep, at
our
KAMTSCHATKA. 07
four o’clock the fifth of May, he entered Okotfk, ac-
companied only by Nédarezoff,
He alighted at the houfe of Major Koph, who was
appointed to the command during the abfence of M.
‘Kafloff, whom he had expected with M. de Lefleps.
for fome time. The governor’s letter acquainted
him with the caufe of the feparation, and he fhort-
ly related to him the melancholy circumftances at-
tending it. He then haftened to wait on Madame
Kafloff with letters entrufted to him by her hufband,
but fhe was in the country, four werfts from Okotfk.
He was fo fatigued that Major Koph would not allow
him to go that day, but fent the letters. and his apo-
logies, by an exprefs, with a promife of his paying his
relpeéts to her the day following. Prefuming that he
wanted reft more than any thing, the Major obliging-
ly conduéted him immediately to the apartment def-
tined for him in the houfe of M. Kafloff. He there
found comforts to which he had been a ftranger from
the time of his leaving Ingiga, having flept in a bed
but once at Yamfk in a journey of three hundred and
fifty leagues.
Among the perfons who waited on him the next
morning, was M. Allegretti, an Italian, and furgeon
of the expedition of M. Billings. From the atten-
tion and {kill of this gentleman, M. de Leffeps receiv-
ed great benefit for the complaint which had ftill con-
tinued in his breaft fince his imprudence in fwallow-
ing fome ice, as has been related
Since his arrival at Okotfk it had not ceafed to rain,
and the people fent to examine the roads, reported:
that it was next to impoffible for him to proceed with
dogs. No other hope was left for his departure, for
which he was very impatient, than by taking deer :
and to procure thefe, M. Koph difpatched a courier
after fome wandering Tongoufes who had left the
town but a few days.
Having taken thefe meafures, M. de Leffeps and
Vou. IT, (G) M. Koph
08 TRAVELS FROM
M. Koph went to Madame Kafloff’s at Boulguin. This
lady was born at Okotfk, and had been well educat-
ed. She fpoke French admirably; and, during the
abfence of her hufband, lived in retirement, devoting |
her time to the care of a little daughter, now three
years old.
The day following, which was the 8th, the courier
returned without having been able to come up with
the Tongoufes, who had difperfed through thecoun-
tay. No hope therefore remained of deer. But as
M. de Lefleps was fearful of not reaching the Crofs
of Yudoma before the rivers were entirely broken
up, in which cafe he might be {topped by the floods,
he prevailed on M. Koph to give the neceffary orders
for his going on the next day, in fpite of the difficul-
ties that had been pointed out to him.
The town of Okotfk is longer than it is wide, and
extends from eaft to weft nearly in a line. On the
fouth fide is the fea, at one hundred yards from the
houfes, with a beech of flints between. The walls
are wafhed on the north by the river Okhota, whofe
mouth is to the eaftward, that is to fay, at the extre-
mity of'a neck of land on which the town is built,
and which widens towards the weft. The interior
offers nothing remarkable. ‘The houfes vary little in
their conftruétion, being merely ifbas, fome of which
towards the eaft, larger and more convenient than the
others, are occupied by the officers.’ M. Koph lived
in the oppofite quarter. The door of his court-yard
opened into the great ftreet, where was a fquare con-
taing the houfe of the governor, and the chancellor’s
office all in one, Oppofite was the guard-houfe, and
on the left the parifh church. The feveral edifices
made no great appearance: formerly they had been :
fhut in by a palifade, a part of which remained. A
gate to the caft of the government houfe fhewed that
there had been a fortrefs, Behind is a ftreet clofe ne
| the
KAMTSCHATKA. 99
the river, inhabited by merchants, whofe fhops are
regularly difpofed on each fide.
The port fcarcely deferves the name. M. de Lef-
feps counted feven or eight fmall veffels or galiots,
fome belonging to the crown, and others to mer-
chants trading in furs to America. It is to the eaft-
ward, near the extremity of the town, and a little dif-
tance from the river whofe windings form it. Upon
the invitation of Mr. Hall, a lieutenant in the navy,
M. de Leffeps went to fee a kind of dock-yard, where
were two {mall veffels building for the expedition of
difcovery entrufted to M. Billings. ‘The failors, fol-
diers, and carpenters had been fent hither at a vaft
expence, and all employed the greateft ardour upon
the armament, which it was prefumed would coft the
Emprefs an immenfe fum.
Faithful to his word, M. Koph had feen every thing
prepared for M. de Leffeps’ departure, who, on the
evening of the roth, quitted Okotfk. His fuite had
been augmented by two men, who were to pilot him
on.the river Yudoma. He went on all night, not-
withftanding the badnefs of the roads, which too well
anfwered the account he had received of them. They
were full of water, and in fome places, particularly in
the woods, the dogs were up to their bellies. ‘The
wind was to the fouthward, the fky cloudy, and every
thing foretold that the thaw would continue.
Meantime, having croffed the river Okhota, he
gained without any accident the village of Medvéjé-
golova, or the Bear’s Head, forty-five werfts from
Okotfk, and inhabited by Ruffians and Yakouts. He
got there early in the morning, but the dogs were fo
tired, that he decided upon ftopping that day and all
night; not having it his power to get a frefh fupply.
The following day he hoped would take him to
Moundoukan, twenty werfts from the laft village.
Half way a part of the dogs refufed to draw; and
they very reluctantly went down on a river which
| (c 2) feemeg
100 TRAVELS FROM
feemed to offer a more convenient way. They had
not gone many yards before a fudden crack was heard
under the fledges, and in'a minute that of M. de Lef-
feps funk confiderably. A piece of ice ftill kept it
up, but a fecond break put the fkates three parts
under water. It was in vain to attempt getting out,
as the leaft motion would have overturned it. Fortu-
nately the water was only four feet deep; and by the
help of his people, who were obliged to hold each
other by the hand, they all recovered the bank in
fafety ; for deaf to the remonftrances of his conduc-
tors, M. de Lefleps was determined to purfue his
route. The fnow in the meantime melted fo rapidly,
that the dogs paddled in the water without advancing,
till they fell down one on another, worn out with fa-
tigue.
at length, by the ferious though refolute arguments
of one of the guides, who was a ferjeant, fent parti-
cularly by M. Koph as a man of great intrepidity and
experience, and who pointed out the almoft innume-
rable and infurmountable difficulties before them,
himfelf determining to go no farther, M. de Leffeps
was prevailed upon to return immediately to Okotik,
whence he was no more than fifty-five werfts.
They reached Medvéjé-golova that fame evening,
and ftaid there till four o’clock at noon the next day.
They then travelled flowly to the river Okhota, which
they croffed with great danger, and arrived at Okotfk
the 1 4th-at noon.
This unavcidable misfortune, and the profpeét of
being detained here fome weeks, were fources of great
tribulation to M. de Leffeps. But he had the com-
fort of knowing he had done his beft; and the kind-
neffes he received from every body diverted his cha-
grin, till refignation was no longer a merit. us
An ong the officers of the garrifon he was under
particular obligations to M. Loftfoff, infpector-gene-
ral, who fent an order to all the environs’ for all a
| be
il
t
t
a
i
LL ed MM AH HH KH
KAMTSCHATKA. 101
beft horfes to be ready at the fhorteft notice. This
was no fmall exaétion, if the extreme weaknefs of
thefe poor animals were confidered, who live all the
winter upon the branches of fallows or birch trees,
and are turned out in the fpring to recruit themfelves
before they are ufed.
- Ina few days an exprefs from Ingiga gave them
the fatisfaétion of hearing that M. Kafloff had arrived
in that town; but their joy was rather damped by
not receiving any letter from him. M. de Leffeps
pleafed himfelf however with the hopes of feeing the
Governor General before his departure from Okotfk.
Okotfk being the feat of government, and the prin-
cipal mart for Ruffian commerce, M. de Lefleps was
here at the fource of knowledge, and the fociety in
which he lived gave him the opportunity of inftruct-
ing himfelf in thefe particulars. He endeavoured,
therefore, to trace the caufes which firft gave rife to
the enterprifes of the Ruffian colonies in that country,
and which were afterwards the means of fixing and
increafing them. In this purfuit he had the affiftance
of the moft enlightened perfons, and the moft fkilful
merchants : ‘and in order to affure himfelf of the truth
of their information, he frequently compared their ac-
counts one with another, as well as with the affertions
of Mr. Coxe. ‘The following is the fubjeét of the
notes which he made on this occafion.
By the conqueft of the eatern part of Siberia, the
Roflians got poffeflion of the ich mines with which
they enriched themfelves, and which the inhabitants
feemed to hold in but little eftimation. To-the ex-
traction of iroa, the conquerors added that of filver,
of gold, and of other precious metals, the external
objects of man’s avarice. The difcovery of thefe new
fources ‘of riches, enflamed the courage of the adven-
turers, till. the defire of extending their dominion car-
ried them to Irkoutfk, which, on this fide, ought to
have been confidered as the boundary of the empire.
(c 3) At
102 TRAVELS FROM
At their frft incurfions into the neighbouring
countries, they perceived with regret that the fame
advantages were not to be expected. Nature every
where fhewed herfelf a ftep mother. The fterility of
the foil, equalled by the rigour of the climate, the ftu-
pid flothfuinef of the favage inhabitants, who for the
moft part were hunters, herdfmen, or perfons fubfift-
ing on fifh, promifed no great refources to induftry,
and reprefled the powers of fpeculation. But the in.
genuity of avarice found here even treafures that
might be appropriated. At the fight of the cloathing
of thefe people, it was immediately determined to rob
them of it ; calculating upon the poflibility of fucceed-
ing by the allurement of change, and upon the im-
menfe profit that would arife from fuch a branch of
commerce, if they could once get it into their own
hands. |
In advancing farther to the eaft of Afia, it was re-
marked that the furs became more beautiful. This
was fufficient to perfuade the Ruffians how much it
was their intereft and glory to fubjec&t every part of
this vait territory to their laws. Hitherto it had been
the theatre of piracies by a herd of Coffacs and Tar-
tars, with whom fome Ruffians, animated by the fame
fpirit of plunder, had united. The fuccefs of their
attempts gaining ground, a defire of gain increafed
the number of emigrants, whofe boldnefs grew in
proportion to the refiftance with which they were op-
pofed by the natives. In vain had nature placed thefe
in fandy defarts, in the mid{ft of forefts, where their
independence feemed out of all reach; in vain had
the rigour of their winters, their mountains, and their
frozen rivers been given them for ramparts; nothing
is infurmountable to ambition, to the rage of con-
queft, or to a thirft of riches.. The courage of the
natives occafioned the renewal of combats, but they
could not fave themfelves from oppreflion. ‘The vic-
tors, avowedly recruited by government, fprung up
4 ike
KAMTSCHATKA. 103
like hydras, till they had made themfelves mafters of
all the country as far as Okotfk, and pufhed their
conquetts in the north to the river Anadit.
To fecure fuch advantages a fyftem of government
and commerce became neceflary. Forts were con-
ftructed, and towns built. Thefe eftablifhments, mi.
ferable as they were, opened an afylum to Ruffian
and other traders, who had found the way through
thefe provinces. The injuftice and cruelties of ufur-.
pation no doubt were feverely felt till a regular mode
of government took place. The rights of the natives
were then more attended to, taxes were lefs arbitrary,
and the public duties were better fulfilled. The Ruf
fian merchants fent their faétors to Okotik, which,
from the advantages of its fituation, became the me-'
tropolis. . The navigation was however little more
than cruifing, and the veflels from Kamtfchatka were
chiefly galiots. ‘The cargoes they brought back, that
is, the precious fkins taken from the inhabitants either
in barter or as impofts, were fent to the center of the
empire, where they were fold under the direction of
government, and chiefly on its account, the immenfe
duties laid on every article confuming nearly the whole
rofit.
: Meantime Okotfk flourifhed, and the number of
veffels that entered its port daily increafed, as frefh
connections opened frefh objects of traffic.
Ruffian caravans, leaving Siberia behind them,
pafled on from defart to defart, till they reached the
frontiers of China, where, after fome time, a treaty of
trade was fettled between the two nations. This pri-
vilege, which was not enjoyed by any people in the
neighbourhood of China, gave to Ruflia an unbound.
ed extent of commerce; and led befides to the difco-
very of iflands which very foon arrelted the particular
attention of the Court of Peterfburgh.
In hopes of one day poffefling thefe iflands, the moft
experienced marine officers were confulted and em-
(a 4)
104 TRAVELS FROM
ployed, Behring, Tchirikoff, Levacheff, and others
equally celebrated. Eager for difcovery, fome em-
barked at Okotfk, others at Awatfcha, or Saint Peter
and Saint Paul at the point of Kamtfchatka, and
Behring ifland, Copper ifland, the Aleutienne and Fox
tions bectinie tributary in their turns. The happy
argonauts at length reached the coaft of America, and
landed upon the peninfula of Alaxa, which they learn-
ed was part of a vaft contirent; every thing fhewed
that it muft be the new world, and, full of joy, they
returned to their own country.
Ruffian factories were quickly eftablifhed at Alaxa,
which continue to be well fupported: The following
is the mode of traffic adopted at Okotfk, whence fe-
veral veflels fail every year for America. When a mer-
chant wifhes:to make this voyage, either. himfelf, or
by an agent, he obtains permiflion of the governor.
The cargo is divided into fhares, which are bought by
whoever choofes to become a purchafer. The price
of the fhares defrays the expence of fitting, and of
the different articles of merchandife, which confift of
ftufls, iron utenfils, glafs trinket‘, handkerchiefs,
brandy, tobacco, and other things efteemed by favages.
The officers and failors have a part of the cargo call-
ed pai afligned them inftead of wages. The voyage
lafts three, four, or fix years, and is direéted to places
little frequented, and fpent in fearch of new difcove-
ties. Upon their return, the owners pay duties to
the treafury according to the nature of the lading,
which are levied upon the ‘effects. ‘The remainder is
then valued, and equally divided among the owners.
A part of the merchandife is then fent to Okotfk, and
part to Yakoutfk, thence to Irkoutfk, and Jaft of all to
Kiakhta, where the Chinefe becoine the purchafers.:
All the tribunals of the peninfula, as has been ob-
ferved, are fubjeét to that at Okotfk, where the gar-
tifon, which was for a long time very diforderly, was
now, by the abilities and attention of the late gover-
| nors,
KAMTSCHATKA, 105
nors, brought under a ftriét difcipline, that has made
inftances of difobedience very rare. The police, by
the admirable management of M. Koph, was equally
well ordered: and by the activity and prudence of
M. Loftfoff, Infpeétor-general, the trouble that ufed
to attend the collection of the revenue was entirely
removed, and the decrees of the Emprefs were exe-
cuted without violence.
Having mentioned M. Billings, it may be neceflary
to obferve, that this gentleman, from the reputation
he had acquired in one of the voyages of Captain
Cook, who was his countryman, was invited to Ruffia,
and received the rank of Captain, for the purp»fe of
commanding a fecret expedition, as it is fuppofed, of
difcovery. The moft extenfive powers are given him,
and materials, workmen, failors, every thing in fhort
that can be neceffary, has been furnifhed by the court.
For the fake of difpatch he has divided his people.
One part was at Okotfk under the command of M.
Hall his lieutenant, attending to the two veflels build-
ing there; whilft he had gone with the remainder to
the Frozen Ocean, in floops and other fhips haftily
built in the river Kolumé. No one cou!d guefs the
object of this firit voyage, but it was imagined that
M. Billings was to make the circuit of this part of
Afia, to double Cape Suctoi, and to fearch for a paf-
fage to Okotfk by the fea of Kamtfchatka. If fo, he
had probably met with infurmountable obftacles, fince .
after being-at fea fome months, he had re-entered the
Kolumé, and had jult failed for Yakoutfk. The ar-
mament under the care of M. Hall had been fufpend-
ed during the winter, but was now getting on faft.
But M. de Lefleps did not think, that with the greateit
diligence, thofe fhips could be ready in lefs than two
ears. 3
: The river Okhota, which had always been difen-
cumbered of its ice by the 2cth of May, did not
break up this year till the 26th. ‘he floating of the
ice
106 TRAVELS FROM
ice was a grand fpeétacle ; attended with the unfor-
tunate lofs of thirteen dogs, which no poffibility could
fave, and which were carried away in a few minutes
to the fea, where they would foon inevitably perifh.
Thefe were now the only victims, but the effects were
fometimes fo terrible, as to occafion the removal of all
the houfes near the river: and M. de Leffeps was af.
fured that a fourth part of the town had frequently
been deftroyed. .
At the completion of the thaw, the fifhing feafon
commences, which relieves the inhabitants from the
greateft diftrefs. On M. Koph’s ordering the feine
to be ufed, a great part of the town attended. The
cries of joy at fight of the fifh were extraordinary,
and it was not without tears that M. de Lefleps be-
held whole families difputing for it, and fome of them
devouring it raw upon the fpot.
At the earneft entreaty of M. de Leffeps, the horfes
that had been appointed for him, were ordered to be
ready by the 6th of June; and on that day he left
Okotfk accompanied by M. Loftfoff,.M. Hall, and M.
Allegretti Of his two foldiers, Golikoff only went
with him, and the father of Nédarezoff, who was to
pilot him on the river Yudoma. Some workmen
were allo to follow, by the permiflion of M. Koph, to
repair what boats might be damaged, that M. de Lef-
feps might not be delayed.
At fight of his horfe, which was a mere fkeleton,
he drew back with horror and compaffion, though he
paffed for one of the beft. The faddles were like
thole of France; except thofe that carried the bag-
gage, which were of wood, with two crofs fticks at
the end to which the portmanteaus were faftened.
For fome time they travelled by the fide of the Okho.
ta, which, at the breaking up of the ice, overflows its
bank to an amazing extent, and has been known to
rife two feet above the tops of the higheft trees, Near
Medvéjé-golova M. de Leffeps’ horle fell under him,
4 | and
de
PE ul =
OR CT
KAMTSCHATKA. 107
and finding it impoffible to make him get up, he was
left behind, and it was imagined would foon expire.
M. de Leffeps mounted another, and gained the vil-
lage without any other accident.
The next morning at nine o’clock they forded the
river Okhota, the courfe of which they were no lon-
ger to purfue. Some Yakoufe yourtes were obferved
here and there at a great diftance from each other, on
account of the number of horfes kept by the inhabi-
tants; fome of them poffefling more than a thoufand,
who could not poflibly find fufficient food if the ftuds
were nearer.
At Moundoukann the fatigue of the horfes obliged
them to ftop that night and all the next day. Early
the 8th M. de Lefleps here feparated from Meffrs.
Hall and Loftfoff, and afcended a high mountain
named Ourak, at whofe fummit the horfes were al-
moft buried in fnow. At the foot ran a wide and
rapid river of the fame name.’ The watermen who
dwelt on the bank happened to be abfent, and M. de
Leffeps tired of waiting for them, ordered his people
to launch the beft boat they could find; in this the
baggage was put, and they were conduéted in turn to
the oppofite fide. The horfes were taftened by their
tails, three together, and guided by a perfon in the
boat, fwam acrofs, and they purfued their journey.
Twenty-five werfts from Moundoukann they were
obliged to reft the horfes again, and paffed the night
under a tent, keeping up fires: for fear of the bears.
At break of day they proceeded, and M. de Leffeps
furprifed at feeing tufts of horfe-hair tied to the
branches of the trees, was informed that they were
offerings made by the people of the country to the
gods of the woods and highways.
At five o’clock in the afternoon of the rith they
came up again with the Ourak, feveral branches of
which they had forded the preceding day. The width
here was not coniiderable, but the rain made it ap-
pear
108 TRAVELS FROM
pear dangerous, and experience proved it fo, They
therefore pitched their camp in the neighbourhood,
where the horfes fortunately found fomething to eat.
M. de Leffeps reftriéted himfelf to one meal in the
evening, though he was very fuccefsful in killing
game, among which he met with the heath-cock and
white-partridge. The food of the Yakouts was a kind
of thick frumenty made of rye and water, with an
addition of fifh:oil. They were faid to be not great
eaters, though a few of them had been known to
roaft a horfe at a treat, and demolifh him ina few
hours. The inteftines were thought a delicate morfel.
On the 12th M. de Leffeps was awakened early by
the guides. who informed him the water had greatly
funk during the night: and whilft they were puting
on the baggage, feveral horfemen arrived in fafety
from the oppofite fhore. They were ruined mer-
chants going to try their fortune as factors of a man
of property, whofe fpeculation had obtained the con-
fent of the court, and all fuccours thit were neceflary.
The object was the fur trade, principa'ly of the fable
caught by the Koriacs and the Tchouktchis. The
factors were to feparate at the m»uth of the river
Pengina, and to advance into the country. The term
fixed for their journey was from four to five years ;
and they were not only to purchafe fkins wherever
they could, but were alfo themfelves to hunt the ani-
mals: having nothing to fear but from the natives,
againft whom they were provided with arms and am-
munition.
After croffing feveral rivers with great difficulty,
and even with a very narrow efcape of his life, M. de
Leffeps got in good time the fame day, the 12th, to
Ouratfkoi-plodbif. hé, a village on the border of ‘the
Ourak. The inhabitants were four foldiers, each of
whom occupied an ifba. They had the guard of a
magazine, in which were depofited the effects belong-
ing to the crown, and that were brought from Okotfk
. or
KAMTSCHATKA. 109
or Yakoutfk. Sometimes they convey the merchan-
dize as far asthe mouth of the Ourak; but this river |
is fo obftruéted by flats and cataracts, that the navi-
gation is very troublefome and dangerous.
The next morning M. de Leffeps croffed the river
in a boat, and halted at night near an immenfe lake
at no great diftance, which was the fource of it. The
lake was faid to be about feven werft: in circumfe-
rence, and to contain a great quantity of fifh.
The Yakoutes, who are accountable for the horfes,
have a cuftom of cutting off the ears and tail of fuch
as die or that are left on the road; which they are
obliged to give to the proprietor, or pay the price of
the animal : and a long difpute on this fubj-& would
have detained M. de Leffeps, if he had not p'omifed
to give them a certificate, or take the blame on him-
felf. |
The 16th the horfes were fo tired that they were
obliged to walk and lead them, while the Yakout fol-
lowed and whipped them along. In this manner they
proceeded the whole day, ftopping in places where
the young grafs began to fhow itfelf, in order to re-
frefh the poor beatts.
At three o’clock in the afternoon they arrived at
Yudomfkoi-kreit, cr the Crofs of Yudoma, fo called
from a large crofs that is erected on the bank of the
river. Onan eminence, beyond the reach of its over-
flowings, are feveral magazines guarded by four fol-
diers, which ferve as a refuge where their houfes are
flooded. Thefe foldiers are allo watermen, and are at
the fervice of travellers.
At the fight of M. de Lefleps’ paffports they were
immediately at his difpofal. Unfortunately their boats
were in as bad a ftate as poffible, nor were there either
workmen or materials to repair them. Thofe that
were to have been fent from Okotfk could not be near
joining them; and M. de Leffeps was impatient of
getting down the Yudoma, Maya, and Aldaun, for
sr fear
}10 TRAVELS FROM
fear of being expofed to the danger of the fhoals and
cataraéts, as the waters decreafed apace. Among the
- foldiers here, one only had made this voyage eight
years before, and had totally forgot the courfe. M.
de Lefleps was therefore advifed not to have recourfe
to him, but on the refufal of all the others. His
only refource then was in old Nédarezoff, who had
been fent with him as a pilot; but who had only been
once on this river twelve years ago, and the only thing
he remembered. was, that he was three years going
from Yakoutfk to Okotik.
Of the four boats on the beach, M. de Lefeps
. picked out the beft and the narroweft, which was
twelve feet long by fix. On examination it was found
abfolutely neceffary to caulk and pitch it, and to add
a board tothe front to refift the force of the waves.
All this was done as well as circumftances would ad-
mit, and the boat was ready by the evening of the 17th.
At the inftant of fetting out next morning, a caravan
of merchants appeared from Yakoutfk. They were
on their way to Okotfk, and M. de Lefleps prefled
M. Allegretti to take advantage of their company.
They parted at nine o’clock with the regret infeparable
from mutual attachment
M. de Lefleps placed two foldiers to row, but the
rapidity of the current rendered the ufe of oars un-
neceffary. All their care was to avoid a famous ca-
taract which fell from a height of twenty feet upon
three enormous rocks. On this, account it was
thought prudent to lay to for the night, and the boat
was covered with a tent. The next day, after pro-
ceeding fome hours with great difficulty and caution,
they went along a canal to the right of the cataract,
‘which, when the water is high, affords a fafe paflage.
They had ftill a difficult pafs to make, at about a
werlt’s diftance from the cataract, and by not keeping
exactly in the middle of the ftream, the boat was
pitched upon a rock juft hidden by the water, but
which,
KAMTSCHATKA. 111
which, being well covered with mofs, did them no
injury. M. de Leffeps fired-at a bear that was walk-
ing on the bank, and wourided him, though not fuf-
ficiently to prevent his flying into the woods. He faw
alfo a number of argalies, fwans, geefe, and a fox,
but could not get within reach of any.
After failing on the Yudoma at the rate of from ten
to fifteen werfts an hour, they entered the Maya on
the 22d at twoo’clock in the morning, and proceeded
in a. direction nearly north, but inclining now and then
tothe eaft. About noon they met nine boats drawn.
by men, and bound to Okotfk, laden with various mi-
litary ftores for M. Billing’s expedition. The knats
were now very troublefome, and they had no other
way of keeping them off, but by the fmoke of rotten
wood, with which they kept a fire night and day.
In the evening of the 23d they quitted the Maya
for another river larger and more rapid called the Al-
daun, which they merely croffed, in order to gain a
habitation on the other fide oppofite the mouth of the
Maya.
M. de Lefleps found here fome marines belongin
to M. Billing’s expedition, by whofe advice he took
advantage of fome horfes of burthen, lately arrived,
which, on their return, might convey him as far as
Amguè. He therefore paid his guides, who were to
take the boat to Belfkaia-pereprava; and having
brought the Yakoutes who belonged to the horfes into
good humour by dint of promifes, though they were
at firft much averfe to conducting him ; after a good
night’s reft, he mounted his horfe and continued his
journey.
Neither the voice nor the mufic of thefe Yakoutes,
who were very fond of finging, could be called agree-
able. They were befides great improvifatoris, or
extempore fingers, but by no means it appears equally
ingenious with fome of the muleteers in Spain or Por-
tugal, Every thing they faw furnifhed them with a
fubje&,
112 TRAVELS FROM
fubje&, and the flight of a bird lafted them an hour.
But it was feldom beyond a fhort fentence ; fuch as
‘6 the bird is juft gone by.”
On the 26th they arrived in the evening on the
border of the river Amga, two hundred werfts from
the harbour at the mouth of the Maya. It was two
deep to admit of fording, and the boats were all on
the other fide. After calling therefore fome time, one
of the guides, out of patience, ftript himfelf, and fwam
acrofs to fetch a boat. The whole party got over in
an hour, and proceeded to the habitation of a Yakoute
Prince, named Girkoff. Golikoff went on before to
endeavour to procure a favourable reception. The
Prince fhowed them great civility, not only offering
M. de Lefleps his yourte, but treated him with milk
and butter, and promifed that his beft horfes fhould
be at his fervice the next day. In one corner of the
yourte, which was one of the beft they had feen, there
was a trough of leather fixed for the reception of
mare’s milk, which every perfon who entered, and
the women in particular, ftirred with a ftick: and it is
in this manner that the koumouifs or four beverage is
made. This Prince fpoke the Ruffian language toler-
ably well: and from him M. de Leffeps learned that
at the beginning of fummer they quit their habitations,
and go with their families and a {mall number of
horfes, to gather a flock of provifions for the winter
feafon. In May they have a feftival to celebrate the
return of fpring, when they affemble in the open
country, roaft oxen and ‘horfes, and with the help of
fermented koumouifs, eat and drink abundantly, fing
and dance, and finifh with an exhibition of necro-
mancy : the forcerers being more at liberty, and more
highly efteemed than at Kamtfchatka. But their de-
light in fables drawn from mythology was particularly
fingular.
‘heir funerals are attended with a pomp propor-
tionate to the rank and wealth of the deceafed. When
a Prince
hour.
ch as
1 the
from
S two
Il on
, one
wam
er in
coute
re to
The
ering
milk
ould
f the
there
on of
, and
it is
ige is
oler-
that
ions,
er of
inter
e the
open
Ip of
fing
PCTO-
ore
r de-
larly
ppor-
hen
ince
KAMTSCHATKA. 113
a Prince is buried, he is clothed in his richeft habits
and: moft fplendid arms.» The body placed in a cof.
fin, is-carried by the family to the tomb. The fa.
vourite horfe of the Prince, and the next beft of the
ftud, both richly caparifoned, are led by a fervant, or
by fome near relation, on either fide ‘of the corfe.
They are then tied to two pofts near the grave, and
whilft the body ‘is interred, their throats are cut over
it'as a fanguinary libation to their departed mafter;
whom they are fuppofed to follow in the next world,
and again contribute to his amufement. They then
are flayed, and the head and fkins taken off together
are hung up horizontally on the branches of the trees,
_ at a fmall diftance from the tomb; for a memorial.
A fire is then kindled, and the laft proof of friendfhip
for the deceafed, is the roafting and eating upon the
fpot his two favourite horfes. ‘This ceremony con-
cluded, every body retires. The fame cuftoms are
obferved for women, only inftead of a horfe, a chofen
cow is immolated. : |
Polygamy is allowed by thefe people. Obliged to
make frequent journies, they have wives in every
place they ftop at, but they are never brought toge-
ther. ‘They are, notwithftanding this, jealous to ex-
cefs, and {worn enemies to any one who fhould dare
to violate the rights of hofpitality.
By the care of Prince Girkoff, M de Leffeps found
nine horfes ready for him the next morning. With
thefe he departed at an early hour, and at a foie paces,
obferved on the road wooden figures of a large bird
of the duck or cormorant kind, faid to be the repre-
fentation of a malicious divinity, who was the terror
of the whole country. Among other things he is ac-
cufed of leading travellers out of the road, and de-
vouring their horfes.
In the evening he ftopt at the habitation of another
Yakoute Prince, whom he found as civil and agree-
able as the former. Thefe yourtes, like thofe of the
Voz. IT. (x) wandering
114 TRAVELS FROM
waridéering Koriacs, are round, fpacious, and fuftain-
ed by poles, covered withthe bark of the beech tree,
formed into pieces eighteen inches wide, and edged.
with a kind of ribband:alfo. made of the fame. bark,
and fhaped into feftoons. The infide of the yourte is:
ornamented in the fame manner.) oy)
‘The 28th he came to the river Sola, and the next
morning reached a place called Yarmangui, two hun-
dred werfts from Amgui, on the borders of the Lena.
He ‘here eroffed in a boat to Yakoutfk, and waited.on
M. Maclofsky, the governor, by whofe. invitation he:
had ithe pleafure of fupping with M. Billings.
“Yakoutfk was the pleafanteft and moft populous
town M. de:Lefleps had yet feen. Jtis built on the
weftern fide of the Lena. The houfes are. of wood,
hÿge and commodious ; the churches are. moftly of
fone. ‘The veflels trading here. are. merely barks
ufed for tranfporting the provifions fent. by govern-.
ment, fuch as falt and flour. The: Yakouts only come
to the town when bufinefs calls them. The inhabi-
tants are principally Ruffians, who feem to enjoy the
pleafures of life:with great fociability. The mode of
government is fimilar to that of Okotik.
After recruiting his provifions, M. de. Lefleps left
Yakoutfk at one o’clock in the morning of the sth
July; and having been provided with a boat by M.
Billings, proceeded up the Lena in his way to Irkoutfk.
On the 14th, he arrived at Olekma, which is a badly:
built village, fituated at the mouth of a river of the.
fame name, between feven and eight hundred werits:
from Yakoutfk. Here he ftopped two hours only;
and at fome little. diftance was joined by a canoe with.
one man it in, who was a Tongoufe: trader, land be.
ed to one of the different hordes of his country=
men inhabiting the banks of the river. M. de Lef.
feps went afhore with: this man. and was treated with
great civility by the people in general. A young deer
was flain and laid at his feet, with expreflions of much:
regret
KAMTSCHATKA. 115
regret that their poverty would not enable them to
make him a more ufeful prefent. He obferved that
the chief ornament of every yourte was a fmall idol
of wood, having a human figure, with a) monftrous
head. It was dreffed in their own cloaths, decorated
with a number of rings, bells, and pieces of metal.
They called him St. Nicholas, in allufion to the patron
faint of the Ruffians.
The navigation became lefs difagreeable when he
had got to Peledoui, a large village peopled by Ruf:
fians, defcended from the firft cultivators of Siberia,
called Starogili. : He now got free from the dange-
rous exiles who had hitherto conuduéted the boat, and
whofe place was fupplied by honeft peafants, who were
equally affiduous and obliging. In each of thefe vil:
lages fix men were charged with the bufinefs of the
pott, from which no privilege can exempt them.
The next place he came to was Vitim, and four
hundred werfts. from Peledoui he pañled a fmall town
called Kirintk, or Kiringui, at the bottom of which
the Lena flows, and farther on the Kiringa. From
Kiringui he proceeded to Ufting, where was a confi-
derable falt-pit, and beyond it three zavodes, or cop-
per foundries.
At Toutoura, which is three hundred and feventy
werfts from Irkoutfk, he took horfes; and pafling
through the large village of Verkhalensk, arrived the
5th Auguft, at two o’clock'in the afternoon, at Katf-
chouga, where travellers are provided with kibitks, or
Ruffian carriages on four wheels, which are conduct-
ed by exiles, and from time to time by Bratskis, who
are a colony of fhepherds, fuppofed to be defcended
from the Tartars, and who inhabit an uncultivated
diftri& between Katfchouga and Irkoutsk. The ap-
pearance of thefe people is fierce and favage. They
are great thieves, and M. de Lefleps faw one of them
taken up for ftealing cattle. Their herds, which are
numerous, confifted of oxen, cows, horfes and princi-
(H 2) pally
116 TRAVELS FROM
pally fheep. The rapidity with which he travelled
revented him from feeing their habitations, or mak-
ing himfelf acquainted with their habits of life. After
pailing feveral: mountains, through horrible roads,
about eléven;o’clock at night on the 6th, he entered
the capital of Irkoutsk. The day following Major
Dolgopoloff, who was the gorodnitfch, or comman-
dant of the place, prefented him to the governor,
Major General Arfenieff, to whom he gave the dif-
patches of M. Kafloff, in the abfence of the Governor
General, M. Jacobi, then at Peterfburgh, . The oblig-
ing difpofition of M. Arfenieff gave M. de Leffeps an
opportunity of recommending to him the foldier Go-
kof, whofe father lived in the town, and who on
that account was defirous of being received into the
garrifon, which was eafily effected. tr Ki |
This town, the capital of the government) of : Ir.
koutfk and Kolivanic, is fituated on the border of the
Angara, near the mouth of the Irkout, whence it has
its name. It has many edifices of ftone. The
churches are. of brick;. and fome wooden. houfes,
which are large and commodious. The population
is numerous; and the; great number of officers and
magiftrates, who have introduced the modes and cul.
toms of Peterfburgh; make the fociety very agreeable.
Every perfon has a carriage drawn by a number of
horfes according to his rank and dignity. It is alfo
the fee of an archbifhop, who exercifes the patriar-
chal functions through the whole extent of this part
of the Ruffian eipire.
But it is to the commerce carried on between Ruf-
fia and China that this city chietly owes its fplendour.
After rl fluctuations, for.a full account: of which
M. de Lefleps refers the reader to the publications of
Coxe and Pallas, the two: nations, difcarding all ani.
mofity, have formed a, conneétion, that becomes, every
day more active and interefting:; rr
M. de Leffeps had no other ‘preparation ta make
| or
KAMTSCHATKA. 17
for his departure than purchafing a‘ kibitk; and on
the 1oth he took leave of M. Arfenieff, whofe fon and
M. Dolgopoloff infifted on bearing him company the
firft ftage, which was to the river Angava. Here he
bade them adieu ; and from this place his journey to
Peterfburgh was fo rapid, that it was impoffible for
him to continue his seivations with any degree of
accuracy.
He firft traverfed a fmall canton, inhabited by Brat-
kis, which led him to Oudinfk, and thence to Kranf.
noyark, where he ftopt to repair the axle-trees of his
carriage. This laft town derives its name from the
red and fteep banks of the Yenifei, which wathes its
walls He now entered the defart called Barabinfkoi-
ftep, at the end of which he arrived at the town of
Tomfk. The commandant here was a Frenchman,
of the name of Villeneuve, with the rank of colonel,
by whom M. de Lefleps was received with the cordi«
ality of a fellow countryman.
The town of Tomfk was tolerably neat, part of it
on an eminence, where the Commandant’s houfe
was fituated and part declining towards the river
Tom. M. de Leffeps ftaid here merely to fet his
wheels to rights.
After croffing the principal rivers of the province,
fuch asthe Oka, the Yénifei, the Tom, the Obi which
the Ruffians call the Ob, and the Iftifch twice, he
reached the town of Tobolfk at the mouth of the To-
bol. This capital, fituated between the two rivers,
would have been one of the firft cities of Siberia, but
for a fire which had reduced the greateft part of it to
afhes. An air of confternation {till reigned among
the unfortunate inhabitants, who were working with
ardour, in mournful filence, to repair their loffes.
Already the ravages began to difappear, and the foun-
dations of fome houfes and fhops were raifed above
the furface, all of ftone, with which it is probable the
teft.of the town will be rebuilt, !
In
118 TRAVELS FROM
In quitting it he croffed the Iftifch a third time, in
order to go to Catharineburgh or Yekaterinbourgh,
where he was delayed twenty-four hours, which he
employed in vifiting a gold mine in the neighbour.
hood; and the place where the copper money is
coined. |
To the authors ‘already cited, M. de Leffeps re-
fers his readers for a defcription of the colonies of
Tcheremifies, Tichonvafchies, Votiaguis and Tartars.
Remarking only of the laft, that the neatnefs of their
habitations was remarkable. Thefe ‘l'artars were
ftationary, fond of agriculture, and rich in corn and
cattle. They profefled the Mahometan religion.
The head drefs of the Tcheremiffes was rather fin:
gular. It was a piece of hollow wood eight or ten feet
long, and four or five wide, which is put down
clofe to the hair, and hanging a little over the fore.
head. Round it is tied a white handkerchief either
painted or embroidered with the gaudieft colours,
and fringed with gold or filver, according to the tafte
or wealth of the wearer. It is very large and hangs
down behind. The other part of the drefs may be
compared to a robe de chambre.
A caravan of Bohemians who were met by M. de
Leffeps, afked him for money and told him they
were going to people and cultivate a fmall canton,
upon the borders of the Wolga, near Saratoff.
The neceffity of “dr à his pafsport to the Gover-
nor of Cafan, together with the difficulty of procuring
horfes, detained him till day-light. The Wolga, which
wafhes its walls, makes the fituation very agreeable,
The houfes are moftly of wood, and the churches
ftone. He was told that it was the fee of an arch.
bifhop.: : |
-: Beyond the Wolga he paffed the towns of Houz-
modémianfk and Makarieff, the latter of! which, re-
puted for its linen manufactory, is, properly fpeaking,
a village. At the end of the next fage he was obliged
to
| KAMTSCHATKA. 119
to leave his kibitk, which had one.of the wheels
broken, and proceeded to Nijenei-novogorod in a poft
carriage. | il
Lesvies Viadimer he came to Mofcow, and thence.
pañling by Tver, Vouifchnei-volotfchok, Novogorod,
and near ‘Pfartkocelo, entered Peterfburgh the
24 of Septémbez in the night, having travelled fix
thoufand werfts in forty days, of which eight had
been paffed in unavoidable delays.
Conformably to the inftruétion of Count de la Pé-
roufe, M. de Leffeps delivered his difpatches into the
hands of M. le Compte de Ségur, Minifter Plenipo-
tentiary from the Court of France to the Emprefs;
and receiving others from him ke quitted, Petertbur h
on the 26th, about midnight. Two. days he was de.
tained at Riga by frefh accidents to his carriage, and
at Memel eight hours were taken up in engagin
watermen to take him acrofs an arm of the fea, called
Courich-haff. He paffed the night at Berlin, M. le
Compte D’Efterno, Minifter Plenipotentiary, at that
Court, being defirous of fending letters by him.
At length he revifited his own country, and the .
17th of October, at three o’clock in the afternoon,
arrived at Verfailles. He alighted at the houfe of M.
le Compte de la Luzerne, Minifter and Secretary to
the Marine Department, by whom he had the honour
of being prefented to his Majefty the fame day, and
as a recompence for his undertaking, was appointed
Conful to Cronftadt.
FINIS.
ERRATUM:
Page 37; to page 96, in running title for 1785, read 1786.
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